Thanks for the detailed video, I didn't know about the inner and outer tangs on the pads but I did notice that it appears on the video that you put the inner pad on the outside.
Thank you to the 1A Auto team for these videos. They have been invaluable. The only change I would suggest is to break loose that T50 bolt free on the rotor prior to removing the caliper. Its a hell of a lot easier to do when one can still use the brakes to keer the rotor from spinning. Thanks again!
+georgealm27 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
With so many out there this tutorial is completely brilliant with each step clearly explained and great views of each part,thank you guys have now completed my front brakes and now for the rear.
@@1AAuto Thank you for the reply earlier was wondering have small issue with the rear caliper piston it will turn by using rewind tool,but won't go back even with the master cylinder cap off.
Yes great video. Very good lighting. Thanks, I wasn't sure how to get the sensor off without busting it. As the video says the T50 bolt doesn't need to be super tight as the wheel nuts are the main secure for the disk rotor.
Good video sharp and clean BUT at 8.00 didn't he explain the difference between inboard and outboard pads and then at 8.23 fit the wrong pads or did I misunderstand the explanation?
Thanks man. Been checking a few vids out and yours is best filmed and lit. Good to know you can just pull the sensor out that easily. Bombs away with new pads tomorrow.
Thanks for the video. I had to soak both rotor bolts in penetrating oil and use a pneumatic hammer to get ‘em loose. The brake wear sensor was really wedged in there too and I had to use a flat head screwdriver to separate the pad from the rotor to free it up before removal.
I like the 1 AUTO vids. Very helpful. Thank you for making.... 2012 R56 Now, the T50 bolt holding that rotor to the hub is a giant pain in the ass. I had to drill both sides of mine and replace. Either use an impact and some heat. Maybe hit it with a hammer. Drive it to heat it up, but do not under estimate that little bolt! And what a pain try to hold the wheel and put the luh bolts in. They had to try to be different. Another pia!
Thanks for a well-shot and clear video. I had the same question about opening the master. Also, a link to a brake-bedding procedure would be a good idea...
muchas gracias x el video muy bien explicado y entendido.mi hijo tiene un mini cooper 2011 y es lo mismo que necesita y soy aficionafo a la mecanica .gracias x compartir.
Nicely filmed video. Couple of questions. Well known how to manual says not to lube guide pins on the MINI, why or why not? Also many lube the piston top or the back of the pads, again why or why not? Shouldn't you open the master cylinder to allow the fluid to back up without pressure? Thanks again for the great video.
i really don't recommend spraying brake cleaner into the slide pin holes...that doesnt' make any sense to me, as you would be breaking down the lube that is in there and meant to stay in there. I do usually add new grease to the slide pins, especially if they're dry at all or binding anywhere in their travel. Lubing the back of the pads is probably uneccessary but not harmful in anyway. You can open the master cylinder as well, but may not be necessary, as the fluid should not overflow as long as it wasn't filled while the pistons were far out with low pads...if you get what i'm saying.
I have just replaced my pads on my mini the way he showed on video only to find out he got them mixed up and I found out too late , hurry up and put the video right please.
The outboard pad instruction seems to be not consistent vs how you showed in the video..the wider dots were installed outside..can you please enlighten..thanks
very easy job took me an hour tops would have been quicker if i had watched the vid first as i got caught out with the pads placement .and when you fit on the other side it doesn,t fit . then i realised what i did .
Man, I followed your directions to a T and got to 3:26, taking the bolt out of the rotor using a T-50 and socket wrench. But, it was so impossible to remove (rusted in there maybe??) I ended up stripping the head. Now, I'm using screw extractors to drill into the head and try to back it out - and it is still impossible. It will not budge. Any ideas?
I'm guessing you got it all figured out by now, but if not. Use a deill and drill it out. Be careful with the threads inside the hub. Your extractors may work too. I drilled mine
+Pop Thanks for checking us out! Doing your own work is much cheaper than having it done by a mechanic and our videos will help save money with the repairs and the parts! 1AAuto.com
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Do you guys have a video for F56 2015 models?
+Zachary Paris We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for the detailed video, I didn't know about the inner and outer tangs on the pads but I did notice that it appears on the video that you put the inner pad on the outside.
Nice video. I found that an old school G-clamp was perfect for compressing the piston. Hope it doesn’t affect your tool sales!
Thank you to the 1A Auto team for these videos. They have been invaluable. The only change I would suggest is to break loose that T50 bolt free on the rotor prior to removing the caliper. Its a hell of a lot easier to do when one can still use the brakes to keer the rotor from spinning.
Thanks again!
+georgealm27 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
With so many out there this tutorial is completely brilliant with each step clearly explained and great views of each part,thank you guys have now completed my front brakes and now for the rear.
+miniatureminis 7 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto Thank you for the reply earlier was wondering have small issue with the rear caliper piston it will turn by using rewind tool,but won't go back even with the master cylinder cap off.
Yes great video. Very good lighting. Thanks, I wasn't sure how to get the sensor off without busting it. As the video says the T50 bolt doesn't need to be super tight as the wheel nuts are the main secure for the disk rotor.
Good video sharp and clean BUT at 8.00 didn't he explain the difference between inboard and outboard pads and then at 8.23 fit the wrong pads or did I misunderstand the explanation?
Yes I noticed that too, he said to not mix them up and did exactly that.
yes,I noticed the same thing.
Thanks man. Been checking a few vids out and yours is best filmed and lit. Good to know you can just pull the sensor out that easily. Bombs away with new pads tomorrow.
Andy is the coolest dude ever
Very well put together video. I look forward to doing the brakes this weekend.
Doug Bittel how did it go?
Thanks for the video. I had to soak both rotor bolts in penetrating oil and use a pneumatic hammer to get ‘em loose. The brake wear sensor was really wedged in there too and I had to use a flat head screwdriver to separate the pad from the rotor to free it up before removal.
+Smedley Butler Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I like the 1 AUTO vids. Very helpful. Thank you for making....
2012 R56
Now, the T50 bolt holding that rotor to the hub is a giant pain in the ass. I had to drill both sides of mine and replace. Either use an impact and some heat. Maybe hit it with a hammer. Drive it to heat it up, but do not under estimate that little bolt! And what a pain try to hold the wheel and put the luh bolts in. They had to try to be different. Another pia!
+C W Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Love this guy, thank you for the help
Thanks for a well-shot and clear video. I had the same question about opening the master. Also, a link to a brake-bedding procedure would be a good idea...
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Lee Highsmith
muchas gracias x el video muy bien explicado y entendido.mi hijo tiene un mini cooper 2011 y es lo mismo que necesita y soy aficionafo a la mecanica .gracias x compartir.
Nicely filmed video. Couple of questions. Well known how to manual says not to lube guide pins on the MINI, why or why not? Also many lube the piston top or the back of the pads, again why or why not? Shouldn't you open the master cylinder to allow the fluid to back up without pressure? Thanks again for the great video.
i really don't recommend spraying brake cleaner into the slide pin holes...that doesnt' make any sense to me, as you would be breaking down the lube that is in there and meant to stay in there. I do usually add new grease to the slide pins, especially if they're dry at all or binding anywhere in their travel. Lubing the back of the pads is probably uneccessary but not harmful in anyway. You can open the master cylinder as well, but may not be necessary, as the fluid should not overflow as long as it wasn't filled while the pistons were far out with low pads...if you get what i'm saying.
Thank you
I have just replaced my pads on my mini the way he showed on video only to find out he got them mixed up and I found out too late , hurry up and put the video right please.
hi great video. for the slider pins. one with rubber and the other pin does not. does it matter which way they go to?...
For the T50 bolt, an impact driver can help you get it off.
How do you replace front driver side pad sensor?
The outboard pad instruction seems to be not consistent vs how you showed in the video..the wider dots were installed outside..can you please enlighten..thanks
very easy job took me an hour tops would have been quicker if i had watched the vid first as i got caught out with the pads placement .and when you fit on the other side it doesn,t fit . then i realised what i did .
What size are my rotors? One guy said 294mm front 259mm rearr? I've got a 2010 mini cooper s convertible
So I’m working on a 2008 Mini Cooper, do they not all have a pad wear sensor on the passenger front side?
I thought the mini didn't have break fluid? Where is the reservoir?
Did I just watch you explain which pad goes on the inside and which goes on the outside, then you put the pads on wrong?
Hi, I followed your directions but ended up having locked brakes. Any advice on how this couldve happened?
Just take the wheel off and look and see what happened. If your brakes seized, the piston frozen against the pad
Man, I followed your directions to a T and got to 3:26, taking the bolt out of the rotor using a T-50 and socket wrench. But, it was so impossible to remove (rusted in there maybe??) I ended up stripping the head. Now, I'm using screw extractors to drill into the head and try to back it out - and it is still impossible. It will not budge. Any ideas?
I'm guessing you got it all figured out by now, but if not. Use a deill and drill it out. Be careful with the threads inside the hub. Your extractors may work too. I drilled mine
Drill it out. It's not critical
Only thing I can say is after you clean the shipping oil of your new rotors don’t put the freshly cleaned rotor on a dirty and greasy work surface
+Jack CooperMTB Thanks for the tip!
not to bad, as long as you get the grease off, youre fine. you'll dirt all over the discs regardless, once you start driving.
Do you need brake grease?
+Robert McCharen Yes, brake grease is suggested.
You literally put two inner pads on the same side lol, disc bolt T50, calliper-carrier bolts and the small 13mm are replacement units
So I got charged 500 dollars for thos when I could've done it for less than 300?
+Pop Thanks for checking us out! Doing your own work is much cheaper than having it done by a mechanic and our videos will help save money with the repairs and the parts! 1AAuto.com
There’s no sensor on the front ones?
Cheezy Potatoes Should be one in the front and one in the rear....
Yes, only on the drivers side