Excellent troubleshooting. Sometimes troubleshooting can be real difficult, but you did well and got it at the end. I enjoyed watching and also learned something. Thank you for sharing🙂👍
I have replaced the black cable and still get the lid open error. I tried the staple trick and the lights never did get brighter. I tried using a magnet and that didn’t work. What would be your next suggestion?
Thanks so much for the excellent videos. I have a connector that broke off the LED strip and now says “Lid Open”. Any suggestions on shorting it out if it’s broken away from the strip? I tried the staple and it didn’t work. So hopeful you have an idea. Thank you so much
Oh gosh thank you for replying!! And so fast!! You are amazing! Yes it is and now the one on other side just broke too while I was trying to staple trick….
Do you know how to solder, or somebody that can. The points where the connectors are/were mounted can be scraped back a few mm then a jumper can be soldered there. It is somewhat a pain if the board is mounted in the lid. Also after doing this you will lose the interlock if both sides are jumpered, so it may be good to see if you can go the key switch route I did in the other video.
I have a question - the handle of my GF lid came off, pulling the wires off with it (and the connectors at the end of each LED light strip. Do you think I can lose the lid open message if I connect up the two wires within the lid itself?
Just to confirm, it did work! Shorting those connectors circumnavigates the magnet/lid issue completely. I soldered some wire to either side. Many thanks for your video providing the thought process and inspiration, @@madscientisthut
So I replaced the black cable and then did the staple and did the bypass and it still says lid open. Any suggestions on what it could be? Should the Glowforge still calibrate with that error?
It could be a few things. The led boards in the lid could have a cracked trace, open solder joint, damaged connector. Also could be the bottom board that cable connects to.
So what happened was I was engraving a bamboo board it finished and I took it out and put in another board and that’s when I got the error. Also when I turn it on the button flashes purple for a few seconds and then goes normal color. I can’t remember if it did that before.
So if you identified that you can run with the staple in there and not without it, you have an issue with the magnetic switches in the front of the top cover. You can further isolate the two switches by trying one side at a time. Once you have figured out which one is bad you can leave the staple on that side and use the machine as normal.
Sensors can drive you nuts but you you got it. Great troubleshooting Kirk.
That machine is so cool.
Those are tricky, nicely shown!
Excellent troubleshooting. Sometimes troubleshooting can be real difficult, but you did well and got it at the end. I enjoyed watching and also learned something. Thank you for sharing🙂👍
good information and safety warning
*big like👍Au👀always a full watch*
Cool Channel 😀New friend from Denmark 👍🔔
I have replaced the black cable and still get the lid open error. I tried the staple trick and the lights never did get brighter. I tried using a magnet and that didn’t work. What would be your next suggestion?
@@jeremy08410 unfortunately it maybe down on the main board.
Good tutorial Kirk 👍2 Gary
Good information showing how & to use what is on hand.
👍# 6
Stay well, Joe Z
Supporting you friend Gary
Thanks so much for the excellent videos.
I have a connector that broke off the LED strip and now says “Lid Open”. Any suggestions on shorting it out if it’s broken away from the strip? I tried the staple and it didn’t work.
So hopeful you have an idea. Thank you so much
it depends on which connector broke, is it the two pin connector that the magnetic sensor goes to (close to the front of the lid)?
Oh gosh thank you for replying!! And so fast!! You are amazing!
Yes it is and now the one on other side just broke too while I was trying to staple trick….
@@madscientisthut - yes the 2 pronged connector
And if I hold them both up the lights come on brighter like it’s going to emgage
Do you know how to solder, or somebody that can. The points where the connectors are/were mounted can be scraped back a few mm then a jumper can be soldered there. It is somewhat a pain if the board is mounted in the lid. Also after doing this you will lose the interlock if both sides are jumpered, so it may be good to see if you can go the key switch route I did in the other video.
I have a question - the handle of my GF lid came off, pulling the wires off with it (and the connectors at the end of each LED light strip. Do you think I can lose the lid open message if I connect up the two wires within the lid itself?
Not sure but possibly.
Just to confirm, it did work! Shorting those connectors circumnavigates the magnet/lid issue completely. I soldered some wire to either side. Many thanks for your video providing the thought process and inspiration, @@madscientisthut
So I replaced the black cable and then did the staple and did the bypass and it still says lid open. Any suggestions on what it could be? Should the Glowforge still calibrate with that error?
It could be a few things. The led boards in the lid could have a cracked trace, open solder joint, damaged connector. Also could be the bottom board that cable connects to.
I am not sure about calibration with the lid open error
So what happened was I was engraving a bamboo board it finished and I took it out and put in another board and that’s when I got the error. Also when I turn it on the button flashes purple for a few seconds and then goes normal color. I can’t remember if it did that before.
Do you remember anything getting hit in the lid area by the bamboo board when it was removed?
@@madscientisthut no it was just a 5x7 dollar tree board. That’s why I am so confused.
We just leave the staple in there?
So if you identified that you can run with the staple in there and not without it, you have an issue with the magnetic switches in the front of the top cover. You can further isolate the two switches by trying one side at a time. Once you have figured out which one is bad you can leave the staple on that side and use the machine as normal.