Thanks for the info. I'm getting back into racing after a 15-year hiatus. This will be my first attempt at turf/carpet buggy racing. I had been asphalt on-road racing and carpet touring class previously. Just bought the associated 6.4 hope to be racing soon.
Im a steer wheel user (In the Uk). Im one of those who uses high negative value steering expo. I think its something steerwheel users like more, but as you say, it can really effect how a car enters the corner.It feels like it allows the car to scrub a little speed whilst stabilising its self (Just for a split second) and thus loading the tyre more smoothly before feeding in the majority of the lock and really sending the car into the corner. It feels fast and safe to me but accept its a very marmite feel! I think stick users benefit much less from steering expo as i think the movement of the stick creates its own natural expo and feeding the steering in a little at the start of a corner is a much more natural movement on a stick. (if that makes sense)
Good video - similar to what we ran on the AE cars:) One thing lots of us found was ditch the ‘bent’ steering ball cups and replace with normal ones - makes a big difference IMO and you feel more connected to the car ;) Also - re Boost - we always run zero :) I’m of the opinion if you need to run boost you’ve got the wrong wind motor in the car - just motor up instead.
Nice vid will definitely help me get started on the setup stuff. I am planning on getting into 2wd carpet buggies this winter, probably 17.5t stock class for motor setup. At least at first. I want to pick a popular class but not one that's so popular that I don't get much wheel time due to how many people are in it. Seeing you use a stick radio is making me think I suppose I'll just try my airplane radio. I have a decent pistol grip, flysky nb4, but tbh it's a pile compared to my plane radio in regards to how precise the pots are and the levels of programmability. So long as I can get used to plane radio driving a car it should in theory be easier to be precise. I also have expresslrs in it which boasts a proven 10ms of latency or so in the 333hz mode. Also 333hz pwm to esc and servo so in theory it's lower latency than the car radio too. Not that it's likely to matter but if you can have a theoretical advantage you might as well take it. With your stick radio, does the throttle have a detent to center itself? That's the one part that might be weird on the plane radio, no throttle centering. However, with 3D helis we get along just fine with no centering throttle/collective, so in theory should be doable for cars too. I do already use the plan radio for my crawlers but I have it set up a little differently. For the buggy I need to have a braking range on the throttle stick which I don't have on the crawler. With the crawler, I flip a switch to activate reverse. The extra precision you get with a stick radio for an rc crawler is very noticable. With a buggy I am thinking probably the lower third of the stick will be proportional brake and the upper 2/3rds proportional throttle. Will take some experimenting. Should be fun.
@@TeamRC3D So I just got my b6.4 set up last week and ran it for the first time with the plane radio on Saturday night. I have the esc set up where neutral is about -30 position on throttle and no spring in the throttle stick. Honestly the radio certainly isn't holding me back it works just fine. My best lap for the 21.5 class at this track was 12.2 or right around there and I was averaging in the high 12s when I was in the zone. The fastest 21.5 guys were doing mid 11s I think so I wasn't hugely off pace. They had a lot more motor than I did somehow though. I still have a slipper clutch in mine didn't put the direct drive in yet. I also think my gear mesh might be just slightly too tight. Anyways, the plane radio worked great I think. I think wanting the throttle to center itself is a bit of a red herring for setups with no reverse. There's not really a time when I need to find exact neutral while on the track. It was nice having all that granularity with the throttle control that you just don't get with a pistol grip radio. Even if you're basically pinned 90% of the time with 21.5t anyways.
Thank you for the insight. I’ve been playing with the 8k throttle setting on the esc, but will try 12k. Run in the Mid South, B6.4D, B7D and B74.2. Smooth ESC is what I looking for more. My thumbs aren’t good enough. Just stopped running Sworkz, so an outcast in the south 😂
Has anyone fitted the XR325100 - TEAM XRAY XB2 ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL in the B6.4? It looks like a simple drop in really but I'm not sure if the XRAY diff and the B6.4D are the same pitch & teeth count? It's a big chunk of change so I want to confirm before splashing out the £100. Thanks :)
I tried the brass bulkhead. It weights 33g, but I felt it makes the front end not so reactive and slow. The aluminum one is 12g, the plastic is only 4g. I guess the aluminum is good on carpet too, just to make sure you won't break the plastic one and get a DNF during a race. I defineitely give a try for the 3 hole piston, I just bought the 2.5 mm thick pistones. Wich 3 hole pistons did you get, the 2 mm thick or the 2.5 mm?
I have a quick question. I’ve noticed that on our track we race on in town here that I’m struggling to get the car slowed down for slow and tight corners. If I give it too much brake, the car spins out and if I steer too much or try and carry too much speed the car tips over. I have to be really careful with it and can’t drive as hard as I would like to. Also running no drag brake. Was wondering if I need a stiffer front spring and to add some drag brake to help with this?
@@TeamRC3Ddo you mean less dynamic toe gain when the suspension compresses or droops? Cause the static toe setting is adjustable regardless of what Block you have installed. So I’m confused.
Have you needed to change the setup of the rear of the car as the new fusions give massive steering and I have found the rear end sliding a lot. Not gripping Have you seen this?
@@TeamRC3D ok thanks. Do you recommend the ezrun max10 of 80A or should I go with the 140A? I think this is the right esc from hobbywing for this size of car. How many kv are you using in the motor?
Thanks for the info. I'm getting back into racing after a 15-year hiatus. This will be my first attempt at turf/carpet buggy racing. I had been asphalt on-road racing and carpet touring class previously. Just bought the associated 6.4 hope to be racing soon.
Good luck! Epic car
Bravo excellent video
Im a steer wheel user (In the Uk). Im one of those who uses high negative value steering expo. I think its something steerwheel users like more, but as you say, it can really effect how a car enters the corner.It feels like it allows the car to scrub a little speed whilst stabilising its self (Just for a split second) and thus loading the tyre more smoothly before feeding in the majority of the lock and really sending the car into the corner. It feels fast and safe to me but accept its a very marmite feel! I think stick users benefit much less from steering expo as i think the movement of the stick creates its own natural expo and feeding the steering in a little at the start of a corner is a much more natural movement on a stick. (if that makes sense)
It is a personal preference
Good video - similar to what we ran on the AE cars:)
One thing lots of us found was ditch the ‘bent’ steering ball cups and replace with normal ones - makes a big difference IMO and you feel more connected to the car ;)
Also - re Boost - we always run zero :)
I’m of the opinion if you need to run boost you’ve got the wrong wind motor in the car - just motor up instead.
Thanks for the info! Will give them a go. No we always run some boost and turbo.
0 boost --> motor up or just increase the can timing slightly?
Nice vid will definitely help me get started on the setup stuff. I am planning on getting into 2wd carpet buggies this winter, probably 17.5t stock class for motor setup. At least at first. I want to pick a popular class but not one that's so popular that I don't get much wheel time due to how many people are in it.
Seeing you use a stick radio is making me think I suppose I'll just try my airplane radio. I have a decent pistol grip, flysky nb4, but tbh it's a pile compared to my plane radio in regards to how precise the pots are and the levels of programmability. So long as I can get used to plane radio driving a car it should in theory be easier to be precise. I also have expresslrs in it which boasts a proven 10ms of latency or so in the 333hz mode. Also 333hz pwm to esc and servo so in theory it's lower latency than the car radio too. Not that it's likely to matter but if you can have a theoretical advantage you might as well take it.
With your stick radio, does the throttle have a detent to center itself? That's the one part that might be weird on the plane radio, no throttle centering. However, with 3D helis we get along just fine with no centering throttle/collective, so in theory should be doable for cars too. I do already use the plan radio for my crawlers but I have it set up a little differently. For the buggy I need to have a braking range on the throttle stick which I don't have on the crawler. With the crawler, I flip a switch to activate reverse. The extra precision you get with a stick radio for an rc crawler is very noticable. With a buggy I am thinking probably the lower third of the stick will be proportional brake and the upper 2/3rds proportional throttle. Will take some experimenting. Should be fun.
Would think a plane radio would be difficult no center on the throttle will make it very difficult!
@@TeamRC3D So I just got my b6.4 set up last week and ran it for the first time with the plane radio on Saturday night. I have the esc set up where neutral is about -30 position on throttle and no spring in the throttle stick. Honestly the radio certainly isn't holding me back it works just fine. My best lap for the 21.5 class at this track was 12.2 or right around there and I was averaging in the high 12s when I was in the zone.
The fastest 21.5 guys were doing mid 11s I think so I wasn't hugely off pace. They had a lot more motor than I did somehow though. I still have a slipper clutch in mine didn't put the direct drive in yet. I also think my gear mesh might be just slightly too tight.
Anyways, the plane radio worked great I think. I think wanting the throttle to center itself is a bit of a red herring for setups with no reverse. There's not really a time when I need to find exact neutral while on the track. It was nice having all that granularity with the throttle control that you just don't get with a pistol grip radio. Even if you're basically pinned 90% of the time with 21.5t anyways.
Good video , would it be possible to put all your final settings in a setup sheet to download .
Yes we can do
Thank you for the insight. I’ve been playing with the 8k throttle setting on the esc, but will try 12k. Run in the Mid South, B6.4D, B7D and B74.2. Smooth ESC is what I looking for more. My thumbs aren’t good enough. Just stopped running Sworkz, so an outcast in the south 😂
Also look at throttle rate that can make a huge difference
@@TeamRC3D 👍 thank you. Roger M has mention TR before too.
Many thanks, will look at TR again. Just got a HW 6T motor on order for the 4WD. Made a point of going even winds on the cars too for smoother motor.
Has anyone fitted the XR325100 - TEAM XRAY XB2 ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL in the B6.4? It looks like a simple drop in really but I'm not sure if the XRAY diff and the B6.4D are the same pitch & teeth count? It's a big chunk of change so I want to confirm before splashing out the £100. Thanks :)
Yes it does fit. I have tried standard diff and fits fine and I know some people who do run them!
@@TeamRC3D Thanks for the info, I will pick up a XR325100 - TEAM XRAY XB2 ACTIVE DIFFERENTIAL. At £100 I just wanted to check. THANKS!
I tried the brass bulkhead. It weights 33g, but I felt it makes the front end not so reactive and slow. The aluminum one is 12g, the plastic is only 4g. I guess the aluminum is good on carpet too, just to make sure you won't break the plastic one and get a DNF during a race. I defineitely give a try for the 3 hole piston, I just bought the 2.5 mm thick pistones. Wich 3 hole pistons did you get, the 2 mm thick or the 2.5 mm?
Yes total agree on brass bulkhead. Have stuck with 2mm pistons.
I have a quick question. I’ve noticed that on our track we race on in town here that I’m struggling to get the car slowed down for slow and tight corners. If I give it too much brake, the car spins out and if I steer too much or try and carry too much speed the car tips over. I have to be really careful with it and can’t drive as hard as I would like to. Also running no drag brake. Was wondering if I need a stiffer front spring and to add some drag brake to help with this?
We run about 10-12% drag brake, and perhaps a stiffer spring may help
Can you add a link for wheel speed? cant find them on the web?
Willspeed. Comes up in a google
o thanks I was looking for wheel speed@@TeamRC3D
0:40 what? you race with a stick radio? wizardry i tell ya
We are weird here in the uk
What did you say about the C & D block, are they both B6.1
The d block to give less toe in on rear
@@TeamRC3Ddo you mean less dynamic toe gain when the suspension compresses or droops? Cause the static toe setting is adjustable regardless of what Block you have installed. So I’m confused.
Have you tried the fusion slim fronts? It gives massive steering but other setup changes are reqd. Like to know your opinion or changes required.
Yes were using them at the weekend on carpet - we use our glueing rings to glue them down completely. facebook.com/customrc3dprints
Have you needed to change the setup of the rear of the car as the new fusions give massive steering and I have found the rear end sliding a lot. Not gripping
Have you seen this?
Hi. How to glue the front tires as exactly as in the video? Do you have to cut them from the inside before gluing them so that they adhere to the rim?
No we just use a velcro strap to glue them down fully - makes a huge difference to the way those tyres work
@@TeamRC3D Hi. How wide does this velcro strap need to be? Wider than a tire?
what rear tires and where do I find the set up sheet. Thanks
We use Cactus on carpet.
Whats the esc and motor you use?
Hobbywing ESC and 6.5t motor but have recently gone to a 5.0t for indoor carpet racing
@@TeamRC3D ok thanks. Do you recommend the ezrun max10 of 80A or should I go with the 140A? I think this is the right esc from hobbywing for this size of car. How many kv are you using in the motor?
What battery mount is that?
Exotek i think!!
Why wouldn't they let you re glue a tire? Sounds like a fart sniffer club for real.
Part of the rules but has been updated now