I saw your video the other day as I'm building a DIY wall mounted foldable GHD and reverse hyper and I was like ehh I'll probably be able to sand it down with my dremel and some other power tools as those nasty 3/4 inch could not fit my 1" pillow block bearing... And well I could had used a 1" axle rod (but those brats are like 100$ each without the connectors!!!) A few hours later... Dammit... I went of FB marketplace and got a Delta bench grinder for like 30 bucks in the evening... I even got "that was my dad's, and I thought I would use it to sharpen blah lawnmower blah blah"... "Gimme gimme, I need to make some more powerrack attachments!!" I should had listen to you man. Ahhaha... Up next (tomorrow in fact) is a commercial press drill*, I did my first 3x3 metal 1" wall mounted rig in the covid using one hole saw and a normal battery powered drill... I could make 4 maybe 6 hole out of one battery, and I had cramps in my hands for weeks after... I think it was 160 holes or something with a single hole saw... (Get the Milwaukee bulldozer btw, those are the best and they cost 6-8 bucks... and some taping oil...) I've upgraded (using the same uprights) to a 6 posts with 4 commercial uprights... But I still have the old home made ones... All of this for what? Just get the good tools to do what you need to do, you'll not get away with ehh i might be able to do it with my punny oscillating tool. I would had saved a TON of time and money... Learning the hard way was fun though. :) I'll send you a picture of the foldable GHD/Reverse Hyper once ill be done. It's not entirely made out of metal (damn it, metal is so expensive and it makes a hell of a mess to clean), but it's like 80-70% of the build. It even has gaz struts! Woohoo! *A recently retired wood worker will sell me his (that was perfectly maintained) for like 50 bucks. From what I've heard, older the press drill, the better. Even the one from the 50s-60s-70s
You can use 5/8” bolts or threaded steel to make a version of some of these items, but it will not be as strong. Being able to DIY attachments using heavier duty 1” materials is one of the reasons I went with the PR5000 with 1” holes instead of the PR4000 which has 5/8” holes.
You can get a cheap 0-1" micrometer from hardware stores. Be good to keep in your pocket to measure those pipes haha. Then you'd know before you buy em.
Yes - but with the exception of the Hitch pin….I actually prefer to not have “full insertion”…. I could have made this clearer in the vide perhaps, but For most attachments I actually only want it to fit in up to the point where I can add a nipple cap on the other side of the rack’s upright or cross member. This way there is a natural stopping point built into the nipple, since the diameter is thinner where I want it to be, and thicker where I want it to be. Hopefully I am making sense.
I like how you smile in between shots - literally more professional than my work colleagues and great channel
Thank you so much! Very nice of you to say that! 🙏🤘💪
Danke für das Video
Thank you Memoli!!! 🤘💪🙏
I noticed you had to grind down the pipe for that last one. Did you need to do that for all of them or do they normally fit in the holes of your rack?
Sometimes the 3/4” plumbing nipples fit as-is…sometimes you have grind…in my experience they usually do not fit as-is. 🙏
How much weight do you think those plate storage pipes can hold?
A lot…but the specific weight capacity depends on many factors, such as length. The longer it is the weaker it is.
I saw your video the other day as I'm building a DIY wall mounted foldable GHD and reverse hyper and I was like ehh I'll probably be able to sand it down with my dremel and some other power tools as those nasty 3/4 inch could not fit my 1" pillow block bearing... And well I could had used a 1" axle rod (but those brats are like 100$ each without the connectors!!!)
A few hours later...
Dammit...
I went of FB marketplace and got a Delta bench grinder for like 30 bucks in the evening... I even got "that was my dad's, and I thought I would use it to sharpen blah lawnmower blah blah"... "Gimme gimme, I need to make some more powerrack attachments!!"
I should had listen to you man. Ahhaha...
Up next (tomorrow in fact) is a commercial press drill*, I did my first 3x3 metal 1" wall mounted rig in the covid using one hole saw and a normal battery powered drill... I could make 4 maybe 6 hole out of one battery, and I had cramps in my hands for weeks after... I think it was 160 holes or something with a single hole saw... (Get the Milwaukee bulldozer btw, those are the best and they cost 6-8 bucks... and some taping oil...)
I've upgraded (using the same uprights) to a 6 posts with 4 commercial uprights... But I still have the old home made ones...
All of this for what? Just get the good tools to do what you need to do, you'll not get away with ehh i might be able to do it with my punny oscillating tool. I would had saved a TON of time and money...
Learning the hard way was fun though. :)
I'll send you a picture of the foldable GHD/Reverse Hyper once ill be done. It's not entirely made out of metal (damn it, metal is so expensive and it makes a hell of a mess to clean), but it's like 80-70% of the build. It even has gaz struts! Woohoo!
*A recently retired wood worker will sell me his (that was perfectly maintained) for like 50 bucks. From what I've heard, older the press drill, the better. Even the one from the 50s-60s-70s
Hell yeah! I can’t wait to see some pictures! 🤘🙏💪
Good job.
Thank you! Cheers!
How about for 5/8” hole racks?
You can use 5/8” bolts or threaded steel to make a version of some of these items, but it will not be as strong. Being able to DIY attachments using heavier duty 1” materials is one of the reasons I went with the PR5000 with 1” holes instead of the PR4000 which has 5/8” holes.
شكرا
You are most welcome!
You can get a cheap 0-1" micrometer from hardware stores. Be good to keep in your pocket to measure those pipes haha. Then you'd know before you buy em.
Yes - but with the exception of the Hitch pin….I actually prefer to not have “full insertion”…. I could have made this clearer in the vide perhaps, but For most attachments I actually only want it to fit in up to the point where I can add a nipple cap on the other side of the rack’s upright or cross member. This way there is a natural stopping point built into the nipple, since the diameter is thinner where I want it to be, and thicker where I want it to be.
Hopefully I am making sense.