Andy, how about a video showing your filming set -up: camera, lighting, sound (mic), etc., maybe even talk about your editing softwate and how you put together your videos? Would love to see it.
If you want something closer to the olive drab they used back then use purple instead of all black. It gives you a more accurate and in my experience a more controllable color that is easier to manipulate.
Looks great, but US Olive Drab doesn't chip. It was baked onto the surface; plenty of tanks you see in museums today still have most of the original paint on them. It would buff down to from crew use and take on a more matte finish in some areas, which is why you sometimes see darker-looking wear in black & white photographs.
That was literally how they applied it. Put the paint on and then set it in with a blowtorch. Otherwise the paint would take forever to dry. That's also how they did zimmerit too.
I ment that they somehow forgot it or they just didn't feel like it this day, also I'm not talking about the the real tank I'm just giving a reason on why the paint is chipping on the model
Olive drab and other coatings can chip, ding, etc depending on the force that causes the marring on the surface. While (on armor) it does'nt typically fade or chip like it would on say, a USAAF aircraft, should there be marring on the edges or surfaces that break through the coating, thus revealing the steel, aluminum, or other metal underneath. It would also wear down, or wear through through use as well, and require reapplication in the field. The majority of the vehicles in museums (In my experience) have been restored, and the factory OD finish reapplied.
It was notoriously tough. I haven't found a photograph where you can see "chipping" on US armour per say, instead the surface wear on edges is darker as I said due to the paint being worn down to a more matte finish, thus appearing darker. But that doesn't look like scratches or chipping where individual flakes can be seen. The only places I've seen chipping on US WWII armour is areas like rubber side skirts and other things like that where the paint would wear off easier, or be applied in a different method than baking....like tools being dipped in paint and so on. And yes, most museum tanks aren't original but there are still many that maintain areas of original finish. My local museum has a Sherman and a bunch of other tanks and vehicles with original OD paint and they're nearly flawless.
It depends on the paint. Not all black paint is the same. In artist paints, some black, like Mars Black is a true black. Other forms of black are not.They are actually a shade of blue. Not all black paint is the same.
dunno if anyone cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf for the last weeks xD
GreenStuff has great products, I like them alot. Not every country used redoxide primer. Russia ww2 I read often used no primer at all, just shot with russian green. Late war and later they seem to have used a pale green primer. Info from finescalemodeler forums.
When I was growing up in the 60s there were many pieces of WWII U.S. armor and equipment on display outside VFW halls, parks and a few languishing in junk yards or metal scrap yards. Some of the pieces were repainted (maybe even multiple times), but a few others were neglected and may still have been in their original paint, or had not been painted with anything but the authorized army paints before being junked. I remember shop classes in school rebuilding ex-army cars from the 40s and 50s that were still in faded O.D. paint and markings. The plastic chips Andy painted at 4:32 are pretty accurate representations of the fading of the U.S. army olive drab that I remember. In fact, the lightest version of O.D. on the right of that scene just hints at how faded the color can become. A junk yard near the town where I lived had a couple of (WWII) Dodge scout cars and some ammo carriers, all with apparently original army markings. Those vehicles were outside all the time in the years I saw them and the O.D. had faded well beyond Andy's 2:1 mix of paint to show just how yellow the faded O.D. can become. Now, it took 30+ years in the southwest sun to turn that color, but it illustrates how much it can fade. How long were most U.S. army vehicles in active use in WWII? Three years at max. I doubt anyone depicting a vehicle that is in active service would want to show their paint faded like 30 years in the sun would do. BTW, real WWII U.S. aircraft O.D. was made the same way with black (I believe carbon black) and yellow pigment. Don't go crazy with planes in active service. Depending on what you read the U.S. usually had the people, time, equipment and material (even wax and polish) to maintain the combat planes. I've read about some planes being completely stripped of paint and the aluminum skin polished and waxed overnight by ground crew personnel near the last part of the war.
Andy, I have a suggestion. What if you could make a small diorama showing wetness, like it was raining and water was pooling on the top of a tank with puddles and saturated ground. Just thought it might be cool.
The part on how to make mix various shades of olive drab is brilliant. I genuinely did not know that that’s how olive drab is mixed. Ha, it seems obvious now - you live and learn, huh? Thanks ever so much Andy. :)
Was watching a few of your videos, and saw, for the second time, your recommendation to take a new Tamiya bottle and thin it almost to the top, with X-20A, for air brushing. So I decided to try it. Oh... My... Goodness!! Soooo smooth! Thank you, thank you, thank you. You made me a pro, with one tip. Hahaha
Andy, I only started modelling armour thanks to your videos and I'm hooked. I've learned so much from you and I just want to say thanks a bunch. The way you use simple techniques to produce such great effects is incredible.
A great tutorial on weathering and I liked how you experimented with leaving one side in a 'factory fresh' finish in order to show the differences. Excellent work!
I found this video by searching "model airplane olive drab neutral gray finish." Thanks SO MUCH for providing this. I'm currently working on a 1/48 P-47D Razorback (Tamiya) and it's a huge help to know to use yellow for weathering/fading instead of white, as I had planned.
Hey Andy! First things first, I love your videos. I'm a huge WWII armor nut and your videos are like candy to me. Keep it up. Second, your videos have inspired me to get into the modelling hobby. Which model makers do you recommend for the best accuracy and build quality? I've heard mixed reviews about Tamiya, but from what I've seen in the videos, they're amazing. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Andy, yet another great video! Always enjoy them. Quick question on the leaves - if you chop real leaves, won't they continue to bio-degrade, i.e. turn to brown? Or do you do something to them to stop the process? Do you seal them in something before sprinkling on your diorama?
I noticed you put the brush all the way in the jar. I was taught to never do that by my dad. He said it will leave streaks of different colors in the color you are trying to make. I was just wondering if you knew that or not.
you should never dip any brush more than half way into paint. If it goes to the top of the bristles paint gets stuck and flays out the bristles ruining the shape.
I am with you and your dad Logan, I would use a straw to draw out my color and I dont believe in putting anything that has another color unless of course it is dry into a different color. That is the fastest way to contaminate your paint and if you are out for authentic looks it makes it hard if not impossible to get right once contaminated.
An out of topic question I would like to ask if you guys encounter it? When I was using this decal fix from Tamiya over the decals to make it conform over the contours of a surface I notice the vellejo paint melting away into a goowy mess do you guys encounter it and if you had what did you do? Thanks
Hi andy! First of all, sorry if my english isn' good enough xd! One cuestion, what color can i use to chip the tiger 1 early production? (I am using the basic panzer grey for the main color) Should i use black? Brown? Or some kind of blue/sky grey/... i have done the black and rust wash, but i dont know with which color do this technique. Hi from Spain!! Xd
You should use red oxide primer. Surviving parts of tanks they keep digging up in Estonia and Russia show lots of red primer coloured chipping, but not much exposed metal.
Hi Andy, How much Tamiya retarder do you use in different situations to hand paint their product and does retarder effect how it sprays? For example; say I want to do a little brushing then spray. You get the idea. As ALWAYS, great video.
another great video and very timely too thanks Andy. I am nearing completion of building my Sherman MK4 and it will be olive drab. One question though when you weathered the yellow parts of the tank you mentioned the olive drab for the underlying paint. Is the mixture full olive drab (XF62) or the lightened olive drab mixture used in the rest of the weathering? Just wondering as the yellow would have gone over full strength stuff I would imagine. Not a criticism I just don't know which way to go. Thanks mate and keep the wonderful videos coming.
Andy, please remember that colors, no matter which ones, always fade towards grey, or a paler tone of itself. Yellow, f.i., will turn into a very light, pale yellow, and then disappear. Every shade of olive drab will fade into a greyish version. The older the paint, the greyer and lighter it will become. Therefor, you can not mix a lighter, faded shade of OD without adding light or medium grey to it ! Do NOT add more yellow, since yellow is ALWAYS the first color to fade away, completely. I have been in the army for 14 months, surrounded by vehicles in OD, so I know for sure what a faded OD looks like !!! ;-) A light OD color, factory new, can indeed be a very fresh green with a fair amount of yellow. If you paint a vehicle in OD, with a simulated high degree of weathering and fading, add more grey. Yes, it will make the model more boring, maybe, too grey, but at least it will be realistic !! Check this website : militaryphotoreport.blogspot.nl/2013/10/nato-colors-and-study-paintings-on.html
Great a always Andy. Quick q for you, no doubt been asked before but what is the airbrush psi you use for the final dusting/ misting? Cheers from England.
hey andy ive noticed that you use tamiya extra thin cement and it works well for you so i got some but nothing will stick together. Im currently building a tristar 1/35 panzer 4 and everything sticks together beautifully with my usual revell cement so just wondering is there a certain way i should be using the tamiya cement.
Im wondering if a light strike from small arms fire or crashing through brick walls will scratch the paint,either way the video gives great weathering tips of all kinds par se. Love the kit and as I bought the Italeri at a show its weirdly the same kit.Oh isnt licensing a fun thing! Thanks to all for the info from both sides of the spectrum.Great video,I like the subtle aged look.It doesnt look like its been made out of concrete due to over stark contrasting. Nic one!
nice. please do a russian ww2 ibo colors using tamiya next. it's really hard to get that color (i usually use tamiya's olive green and fade it up with buff).
Hello Andy, love your vids there a great inspiration for me! One small question, is it correct when I state; paint, seal with dullcoat, apply decals, seal decals with dullcoat, weathering, and sealing all once more with dullcoat?
Wow I checked the Tamiya website and this is what it says on description: Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS80. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. For best results allow up to one week.
Your basecoat needs to be fully dried and cured before applying TS-80. And yes, depending on where you live (-> humidity, temperature, etc.) this can take quite some time. While drying, the coating shrinks due to the loss of the solvent, so it could actually crack the TS-80 if applied too soon. I usually wait at least 3 days before applying the clear coat. The TS-80 itself will be mostly dry after ~30 minutes
Not only am I not impressed with these chipping/scratch products, I am very very disappointed in the so-called "new" Tamiya M3. Tie down loops STILL molded in as little blobs?? Still vinyl track?? No sale here..
You learn something every day, love your videos 👍🏻🇦🇺
David Butterfield i
Great topic. Much appreciated. Keep the videos coming Andy. Really enjoy them.
Always enjoy your videos Andy....10/10!
Here's to many, many more! 🍻
Love your program andy
Andy, how about a video showing your filming set -up: camera, lighting, sound (mic), etc., maybe even talk about your editing softwate and how you put together your videos? Would love to see it.
Keep the videos coming! Thanks for your hard work
Andy, Please, please,please do a a model tank that has been in the bottom of a lake for 40 years.
That would be a really cool diarama
Will you make a weathering video for WW2 Russian armor too? Perhaps with mud effects?
If you want something closer to the olive drab they used back then use purple instead of all black. It gives you a more accurate and in my experience a more controllable color that is easier to manipulate.
Looks great, but US Olive Drab doesn't chip. It was baked onto the surface; plenty of tanks you see in museums today still have most of the original paint on them. It would buff down to from crew use and take on a more matte finish in some areas, which is why you sometimes see darker-looking wear in black & white photographs.
Then this modeltank somehow didn't get baked
That was literally how they applied it. Put the paint on and then set it in with a blowtorch. Otherwise the paint would take forever to dry. That's also how they did zimmerit too.
I ment that they somehow forgot it or they just didn't feel like it this day, also I'm not talking about the the real tank I'm just giving a reason on why the paint is chipping on the model
Olive drab and other coatings can chip, ding, etc depending on the force that causes the marring on the surface. While (on armor) it does'nt typically fade or chip like it would on say, a USAAF aircraft, should there be marring on the edges or surfaces that break through the coating, thus revealing the steel, aluminum, or other metal underneath. It would also wear down, or wear through through use as well, and require reapplication in the field. The majority of the vehicles in museums (In my experience) have been restored, and the factory OD finish reapplied.
It was notoriously tough. I haven't found a photograph where you can see "chipping" on US armour per say, instead the surface wear on edges is darker as I said due to the paint being worn down to a more matte finish, thus appearing darker. But that doesn't look like scratches or chipping where individual flakes can be seen. The only places I've seen chipping on US WWII armour is areas like rubber side skirts and other things like that where the paint would wear off easier, or be applied in a different method than baking....like tools being dipped in paint and so on. And yes, most museum tanks aren't original but there are still many that maintain areas of original finish. My local museum has a Sherman and a bunch of other tanks and vehicles with original OD paint and they're nearly flawless.
Very useful as always.
Black and yellow tip blew my mind , never need to buy drab again
It depends on the paint. Not all black paint is the same. In artist paints, some black, like Mars Black is a true black. Other forms of black are not.They are actually a shade of blue. Not all black paint is the same.
dunno if anyone cares but if you are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been watching with my gf for the last weeks xD
@Kieran Paxton yea, I've been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :)
GreenStuff has great products, I like them alot. Not every country used redoxide primer. Russia ww2 I read often used no primer at all, just shot with russian green. Late war and later they seem to have used a pale green primer. Info from finescalemodeler forums.
When I was growing up in the 60s there were many pieces of WWII U.S. armor and equipment on display outside VFW halls, parks and a few languishing in junk yards or metal scrap yards. Some of the pieces were repainted (maybe even multiple times), but a few others were neglected and may still have been in their original paint, or had not been painted with anything but the authorized army paints before being junked. I remember shop classes in school rebuilding ex-army cars from the 40s and 50s that were still in faded O.D. paint and markings.
The plastic chips Andy painted at 4:32 are pretty accurate representations of the fading of the U.S. army olive drab that I remember. In fact, the lightest version of O.D. on the right of that scene just hints at how faded the color can become.
A junk yard near the town where I lived had a couple of (WWII) Dodge scout cars and some ammo carriers, all with apparently original army markings. Those vehicles were outside all the time in the years I saw them and the O.D. had faded well beyond Andy's 2:1 mix of paint to show just how yellow the faded O.D. can become. Now, it took 30+ years in the southwest sun to turn that color, but it illustrates how much it can fade. How long were most U.S. army vehicles in active use in WWII? Three years at max. I doubt anyone depicting a vehicle that is in active service would want to show their paint faded like 30 years in the sun would do.
BTW, real WWII U.S. aircraft O.D. was made the same way with black (I believe carbon black) and yellow pigment. Don't go crazy with planes in active service. Depending on what you read the U.S. usually had the people, time, equipment and material (even wax and polish) to maintain the combat planes. I've read about some planes being completely stripped of paint and the aluminum skin polished and waxed overnight by ground crew personnel near the last part of the war.
Andy, I have a suggestion. What if you could make a small diorama showing wetness, like it was raining and water was pooling on the top of a tank with puddles and saturated ground. Just thought it might be cool.
Great timing Andy, just build a series of M4’s so will enjoy playing with the olive drab shading!!
Simon, Bourne End UK.
The part on how to make mix various shades of olive drab is brilliant. I genuinely did not know that that’s how olive drab is mixed. Ha, it seems obvious now - you live and learn, huh? Thanks ever so much Andy. :)
great work, great tips thanks.
Was watching a few of your videos, and saw, for the second time, your recommendation to take a new Tamiya bottle and thin it almost to the top, with X-20A, for air brushing. So I decided to try it.
Oh... My... Goodness!!
Soooo smooth!
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
You made me a pro, with one tip. Hahaha
I ordered the set of Greenstuff World leaf punches a few weeks ago , cost me about $50 total, still waiting for the mailman to deliver..lol.
Andy, I only started modelling armour thanks to your videos and I'm hooked. I've learned so much from you and I just want to say thanks a bunch. The way you use simple techniques to produce such great effects is incredible.
Do you have an Online Shop? That would be way better than my local Michaels where they don’t know anything about Modeling.
Slight prob with your ammo box Andy,should be connected to the MG not the mount
A great tutorial on weathering and I liked how you experimented with leaving one side in a 'factory fresh' finish in order to show the differences. Excellent work!
super video .... I'll do on my tank👍
I found this video by searching "model airplane olive drab neutral gray finish." Thanks SO MUCH for providing this. I'm currently working on a 1/48 P-47D Razorback (Tamiya) and it's a huge help to know to use yellow for weathering/fading instead of white, as I had planned.
Will you be making a how to weather Russian vehicles next?
Hey Andy! First things first, I love your videos. I'm a huge WWII armor nut and your videos are like candy to me. Keep it up. Second, your videos have inspired me to get into the modelling hobby. Which model makers do you recommend for the best accuracy and build quality? I've heard mixed reviews about Tamiya, but from what I've seen in the videos, they're amazing. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Andy maybe you could do a wideo about weathering, chipping, scratching etc. modern vehicles?
This is very good tutorial. I'll be grateful if you could do similar tutorial with german panzer gray
Andy, yet another great video! Always enjoy them.
Quick question on the leaves - if you chop real leaves, won't they continue to bio-degrade, i.e. turn to brown? Or do you do something to them to stop the process? Do you seal them in something before sprinkling on your diorama?
I think olive drab was more brown color than green when new.I mix yellow and black= olive green,than I add red=olive drab.
I noticed you put the brush all the way in the jar. I was taught to never do that by my dad. He said it will leave streaks of different colors in the color you are trying to make. I was just wondering if you knew that or not.
By the way your videos are great and very informative.
you should never dip any brush more than half way into paint. If it goes to the top of the bristles paint gets stuck and flays out the bristles ruining the shape.
But he owns a hobby shop , I am sure he has a brush or two thousand :)
I am with you and your dad Logan, I would use a straw to draw out my color and I dont believe in putting anything that has another color unless of course it is dry into a different color. That is the fastest way to contaminate your paint and if you are out for authentic looks it makes it hard if not impossible to get right once contaminated.
I know this rule well, but I never follow it.
Looks great I'm getting ready to start a Sherman build one question what type of air brush do you use or recommend in the mid to high end .
An excellent tutorial! I always struggle with the chipping because i'm afraid to overdo it. Really helpful stuff there.
Andy, have you ever used any of the Tamiya weathering master sets?
Fantastic :)
Any chance you could get a better mic sound quality not that good spoils great video
Great color mixing demonstration! Thank you!
An out of topic question I would like to ask if you guys encounter it? When I was using this decal fix from Tamiya over the decals to make it conform over the contours of a surface I notice the vellejo paint melting away into a goowy mess do you guys encounter it and if you had what did you do? Thanks
black and yellow black and yellow black and yellow black and yellow black and yellow black and yellow black and yellow
Can you update your playlists like like planes, armour...
Hard to find Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black right now. Supposed to be in stock late December 2019.
Olive drab is a green color, made by mixing yellow and black, just like a regular green is made by mixing yellow and blue.
love the tutorial keep it up andy!!
Hi andy! First of all, sorry if my english isn' good enough xd! One cuestion, what color can i use to chip the tiger 1 early production? (I am using the basic panzer grey for the main color) Should i use black? Brown? Or some kind of blue/sky grey/... i have done the black and rust wash, but i dont know with which color do this technique. Hi from Spain!! Xd
Aahh i know that you made it, but my main color is a little bit more blue than yours, so i don't know...
Oohh nothing!! Im watching your other build whith the german grey. Mix silver with german grey? Right?
Sky grey, not silver... xd
You should use red oxide primer. Surviving parts of tanks they keep digging up in Estonia and Russia show lots of red primer coloured chipping, but not much exposed metal.
At the start the sound is so bad, please fix it it's so soft, the rest is greet......
i have wanted to get a load of them leaf punches from greenstuff for a long time i keep putting it off. but think i should go and get myself some. :)
AWESOME. LOVING THE NEW HOW-TO VIDEOS LATELY, THANX ANDY!
Hi Andy, How much Tamiya retarder do you use in different situations to hand paint their product and does retarder effect how it sprays? For example; say I want to do a little brushing then spray. You get the idea. As ALWAYS, great video.
HG Barnes tamiya recommends a 4:1 ratio of paint to retarder on their website
@Andi, Russian Tank from WW2 please... base color modulation and color choice with weathering... would be amazing. Thanks in advance from Florida
Olive drab is yellow and black? Mind = blown
another great video and very timely too thanks Andy. I am nearing completion of building my Sherman MK4 and it will be olive drab. One question though when you weathered the yellow parts of the tank you mentioned the olive drab for the underlying paint. Is the mixture full olive drab (XF62) or the lightened olive drab mixture used in the rest of the weathering? Just wondering as the yellow would have gone over full strength stuff I would imagine. Not a criticism I just don't know which way to go. Thanks mate and keep the wonderful videos coming.
Andy, please remember that colors, no matter which ones, always fade towards grey, or a paler tone of itself. Yellow, f.i., will turn into a very light, pale yellow, and then disappear.
Every shade of olive drab will fade into a greyish version. The older the paint, the greyer and lighter it will become.
Therefor, you can not mix a lighter, faded shade of OD without adding light or medium grey to it !
Do NOT add more yellow, since yellow is ALWAYS the first color to fade away, completely.
I have been in the army for 14 months, surrounded by vehicles in OD, so I know for sure what a faded OD looks like !!! ;-)
A light OD color, factory new, can indeed be a very fresh green with a fair amount of yellow.
If you paint a vehicle in OD, with a simulated high degree of weathering and fading, add more grey.
Yes, it will make the model more boring, maybe, too grey, but at least it will be realistic !!
Check this website :
militaryphotoreport.blogspot.nl/2013/10/nato-colors-and-study-paintings-on.html
That's very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Great a always Andy. Quick q for you, no doubt been asked before but what is the airbrush psi you use for the final dusting/ misting? Cheers from England.
Good one Andy, olive drab (black&yellow)that's interesting. Thanks to you Andy,I now know how to scratch olive drab. Thanks
hey andy ive noticed that you use tamiya extra thin cement and it works well for you so i got some but nothing will stick together. Im currently building a tristar 1/35 panzer 4 and everything sticks together beautifully with my usual revell cement so just wondering is there a certain way i should be using the tamiya cement.
Im wondering if a light strike from small arms fire or crashing through brick walls will scratch the paint,either way the video gives great weathering tips of all kinds par se. Love the kit and as I bought the Italeri at a show its weirdly the same kit.Oh isnt licensing a fun thing! Thanks to all for the info from both sides of the spectrum.Great video,I like the subtle aged look.It doesnt look like its been made out of concrete due to over stark contrasting. Nic one!
Awesome job!! Thanks for sharing your technique!!
nice. please do a russian ww2 ibo colors using tamiya next. it's really hard to get that color (i usually use tamiya's olive green and fade it up with buff).
Thats a really nicew tank. Are there any good MRAP models or any of its variants?
Hey could you build the m26 Perishing with full weathering
what are the colors involved in scratching it before the chipping or second layer.
Great video once again. I’ve learned a lot watching your videos. Keep it up Hopefully I’ll be at your shop again soon!
Excellent video. I really liked your showing how to mix and weather olive drab. It would be handy to see other colors treated in the same manner.
Nice refresher video Andy. Love the weathered look.
A shoutout to Tamiya for those “rubber band tracks” they look great here.
Yellow and Black make olive drab...you are a magician!!!
superb. You explain things very well.
super vidéo really helpful for me ,cause i only do US vehicles thanks for this
How did you weather The 30cal machingun?
Very interesting especially the first part regarding Olive Drab :)
Awesome video Andy Thanks for your efforts
Hello Andy, love your vids there a great inspiration for me! One small question, is it correct when I state; paint, seal with dullcoat, apply decals, seal decals with dullcoat, weathering, and sealing all once more with dullcoat?
Yes
where do you get the wooden diorama bases?
Great video Andy! Thank you.
How long you have to wait once you put TS-80 to do the next step?
Toprak Karaca about 10 to 12 minutes if you're in a hurry
Wow I checked the Tamiya website and this is what it says on description:
Allow the paint to be clear-coated to fully cure before applying TS80. This will prevent the clear coat from cracking due to different cure rates from the paint underneath. For best results allow up to one week.
Toprak Karaca it definitely does not take that long
Your basecoat needs to be fully dried and cured before applying TS-80. And yes, depending on where you live (-> humidity, temperature, etc.) this can take quite some time. While drying, the coating shrinks due to the loss of the solvent, so it could actually crack the TS-80 if applied too soon. I usually wait at least 3 days before applying the clear coat. The TS-80 itself will be mostly dry after ~30 minutes
What do you use for antennas?
What about the Takom Panther?
intaresting will see more
Not only am I not impressed with these chipping/scratch products, I am very very disappointed in the so-called "new" Tamiya M3. Tie down loops STILL molded in as little blobs?? Still vinyl track?? No sale here..
what is "tutu much"?
I've been waiting for this forever
Excellent video !!
Nice Detail
This is beauty! 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Andy!
it looks amazing
first
Very useful tutorial. Great job 👍
Can you build and is3?