in the book(page BE-22) for my 85, it shows the water temp signal on pin 7 (yellow/green stripe)of that blue connector. It says pin 5 (violet)is a ground signal from the ECU for the check engine light to illuminate.
@liveoak7838 when I follow the copper tracing from the water temp gage to the connector it is the number 6 slot. The 84 might be a little different than the 85. It doesnt have a check engine light so maybe the wiring is different. I know the 85s have a lot more electronic components with the EFI and such. Do you have a hard copy of the 85 manual or a PDF?
@@natalied989 I have both forms of 85 manual. would be happy to share the pdf. I have a hard time from the video to see that it is in the number 6 slot on the cluster. looks like 7 to me. Looking at your blue plug, it appears your yellow/green temp wire is in pin 8 and your violet wire is in pin 6. I think they both need to move one slot over towards the other 2 wires so they occupy pins 5 and 7.
Looking at the temp sensor online it appears to have a plug with 2 prongs. Im wondering if your getting a false reading because something else is still hooked up while your shorting the guage for the test. I would hook everything up "stock" and short the sensor to ground not the cluster directly (or vice versa if I have what ya did mixed up) and see if does the same thing. Make sure the engine and body ground wires are good they sometimes corrode inside but look fine outside. If you have ground everywhere and its not a wiring issue you can throw a sensor at it but seems like the cluster died on that side somehow. The oil temp not working makes me think the engine isn't fully grounded or something if its not the cluster itself that is. The 12v power should just be the back light the sensor/guage reading should operate on only resistance to ground as far as I know.
@vinceimp9581 Yes I was just shorting thetoire to the cluster with it disconnected from the sender cuz I thought that's what you were supposed to do. I accidentally broke off the little tab that's supposed to stick into the sensor so I'll have to wire a new one on there before I do what you're suggesting. And I think you are right about the 12V. I think the senders just operate by having ground applied. I remember reading that somewhere. Thank you for the response! I'll give it a shot!
Is this an SR5? I mean a real on, the speedo head could have been switched out, it is different. Is the sending unit a pressure sending unit on the block or is it a dummy switch type. We have an 85 pickup trk, and I put the on from my 1986 4 runner in it and had nothing but problems as it, the pickup, was an automatic and the 1986 4 runner was a manual. I swapped them putting a manual cluster in the truck as we did a manual trans swap. So taking out the trucks automatic dash cluster ECT, and installing the one out of my 4 runner in it had similar issues fuel gauge was not working either. So I swapped them back and all was fine. Just mentioning this as I put a SR5 gauge cluster w/Tach in my 86 4 runner as it was( still is) a DLX, base model it didnt have a tach, but with new cluster it does now, it works fine. But the swap from my 86 4RNR DLX to 85 PickUp didnt work, so I bring this up as previous owner could have swapped causing this to happen. It is pertinent because if they didnt switch out the oil dummy light switch on the block and put in a sending pressure switch ( a larger round switch ) the dummy switch will send power to gauge which is a indicator not an oil light, will burn up the indicator gauge in the cluster, but will seem like it is all working up to the indicator in the cluster which will be damaged. The temp sender on the cluster would indicate right at start up and with in 1 minute or so would show truck was overheating. That is something easy to check. Do Not swap your other 4 runner gauge cluster into the older one unless you are sure of the oil pressure switch stuff I talked about above. Let me know how or if it helps. You may have already checked this. Good luck
Also ck you vin and codes under hood and make sure trim codes are for an SR5 with elect windows and all the goodies. People retro this stuff all the time, from wrecks ect. Too many things at one time not working, not usual for a toyota. If I understood correctly windows, and other things also not working correct? Just make sure what you are trying to fix is what the vehicle actually came as, probably did, but you never know. Hope this helps a little.
@robertmcclure184 I did check the VIN and it came back as an SR5. I did know about the incompatibility with thenDLX vs SR5 oil senders and thought maybe that was the problem. I guess I don't know the difference visually or location of a dummy switch vs an actual sending unit but the oil pressure sender is definitely onnthe passenger side of the block. It has a big black plastic cap over it. That's all I can tell you. Thank you so much for all the information. I kind of put this on the back burner cuz Im trying to get my front end squared away before winter sets in. I'll come back to the cluster soon. Do you know how I can bench test the actual cluster independently of any semding units or wiring in the vehicle?
in the book(page BE-22) for my 85, it shows the water temp signal on pin 7 (yellow/green stripe)of that blue connector. It says pin 5 (violet)is a ground signal from the ECU for the check engine light to illuminate.
also says pin 3 (yellow/black) is oil pressure and pin 4 (green/red) back door unlocked warning light
@liveoak7838 when I follow the copper tracing from the water temp gage to the connector it is the number 6 slot. The 84 might be a little different than the 85. It doesnt have a check engine light so maybe the wiring is different. I know the 85s have a lot more electronic components with the EFI and such. Do you have a hard copy of the 85 manual or a PDF?
@@natalied989 I have both forms of 85 manual. would be happy to share the pdf. I have a hard time from the video to see that it is in the number 6 slot on the cluster. looks like 7 to me. Looking at your blue plug, it appears your yellow/green temp wire is in pin 8 and your violet wire is in pin 6. I think they both need to move one slot over towards the other 2 wires so they occupy pins 5 and 7.
@liveoak7838 I'll take another look tomorrow. It's kind of fallen by the wayside. I started working on something else.
@@natalied989 shared it through google drive. let me know if you don't get it
Looking at the temp sensor online it appears to have a plug with 2 prongs. Im wondering if your getting a false reading because something else is still hooked up while your shorting the guage for the test. I would hook everything up "stock" and short the sensor to ground not the cluster directly (or vice versa if I have what ya did mixed up) and see if does the same thing. Make sure the engine and body ground wires are good they sometimes corrode inside but look fine outside. If you have ground everywhere and its not a wiring issue you can throw a sensor at it but seems like the cluster died on that side somehow. The oil temp not working makes me think the engine isn't fully grounded or something if its not the cluster itself that is. The 12v power should just be the back light the sensor/guage reading should operate on only resistance to ground as far as I know.
@vinceimp9581 Yes I was just shorting thetoire to the cluster with it disconnected from the sender cuz I thought that's what you were supposed to do. I accidentally broke off the little tab that's supposed to stick into the sensor so I'll have to wire a new one on there before I do what you're suggesting.
And I think you are right about the 12V. I think the senders just operate by having ground applied. I remember reading that somewhere.
Thank you for the response! I'll give it a shot!
Is this an SR5? I mean a real on, the speedo head could have been switched out, it is different. Is the sending unit a pressure sending unit on the block or is it a dummy switch type. We have an 85 pickup trk, and I put the on from my 1986 4 runner in it and had nothing but problems as it, the pickup, was an automatic and the 1986 4 runner was a manual. I swapped them putting a manual cluster in the truck as we did a manual trans swap. So taking out the trucks automatic dash cluster ECT, and installing the one out of my 4 runner in it had similar issues fuel gauge was not working either. So I swapped them back and all was fine. Just mentioning this as I put a SR5 gauge cluster w/Tach in my 86 4 runner as it was( still is) a DLX, base model it didnt have a tach, but with new cluster it does now, it works fine. But the swap from my 86 4RNR DLX to 85 PickUp didnt work, so I bring this up as previous owner could have swapped causing this to happen. It is pertinent because if they didnt switch out the oil dummy light switch on the block and put in a sending pressure switch ( a larger round switch ) the dummy switch will send power to gauge which is a indicator not an oil light, will burn up the indicator gauge in the cluster, but will seem like it is all working up to the indicator in the cluster which will be damaged. The temp sender on the cluster would indicate right at start up and with in 1 minute or so would show truck was overheating. That is something easy to check. Do Not swap your other 4 runner gauge cluster into the older one unless you are sure of the oil pressure switch stuff I talked about above. Let me know how or if it helps. You may have already checked this. Good luck
Also ck you vin and codes under hood and make sure trim codes are for an SR5 with elect windows and all the goodies. People retro this stuff all the time, from wrecks ect. Too many things at one time not working, not usual for a toyota. If I understood correctly windows, and other things also not working correct? Just make sure what you are trying to fix is what the vehicle actually came as, probably did, but you never know. Hope this helps a little.
@robertmcclure184 I did check the VIN and it came back as an SR5. I did know about the incompatibility with thenDLX vs SR5 oil senders and thought maybe that was the problem. I guess I don't know the difference visually or location of a dummy switch vs an actual sending unit but the oil pressure sender is definitely onnthe passenger side of the block. It has a big black plastic cap over it. That's all I can tell you.
Thank you so much for all the information. I kind of put this on the back burner cuz Im trying to get my front end squared away before winter sets in. I'll come back to the cluster soon.
Do you know how I can bench test the actual cluster independently of any semding units or wiring in the vehicle?