Hi Kevin. From one armature welder to another, (I have decades of welding experience in many processes but am still learning) I too have experienced the absolutely maddening situation of the "boiling puddle" while TIG welding. In retrospect I can always realize that the situation was not perfect in one way or another. Here are some things that I have discovered to be definite issues when this happens: 1) when welding that area where the cast meets the steel tube: there is oil and who knows what other contaminants in the tiny gap between the tube OD and the cast where the tube is pressed into the bore of the cast part. I sometimes have good luck blasting this with brake clean and then immediately blowing the brake clean away with compressed air because the brake clean will leave a residue (contaminant!). This can actually clean inside that gap, at least a little, and often makes a huge difference. 2) poor shielding gas coverage: Sometimes I would think that I need to crank up the flow to get more gas on my puddle or to compensate for being out doors where there's a breeze. However, what I discovered often happens is that if your gas is coming out of the nozzle too fast AND if your torch is at a steep angle (like it sometimes has to be), that fast moving Argon will actually siphon in fresh air from behind the torch - this will make your puddle boil and bubble. This can be helped or eliminated by simply reducing the gas flow some. Also, ditch the stock gas nozzle for your torch and get a "gas lens" set up. A gas lens really settles the flow of Argon and makes it blanket your area and not just shoot across it. The stock nozzle is like a narrow stream fire hose and the gas lens is more like a wide cone spray pattern that moves slowly and covers a larger area. 3) as clean as that freshly sand blasted surface seams, it's not. It is embedded with all the garbage that has been taken off with the sand blaster in the past (I'm pretty sure those places recycle the sand media). It's the same situation as you discovering that you wire wheel being polluted. Grind everything off and wipe with acetone. You were spot on when you said you should keep devoted wire wheels for TIG. I have wire brushes that I write "TIG ONLY" on the handle just so I don't use them anywhere else. Most of the time you can get away with murder by not fully prepping a TIG weld but sometimes things just have to be absolutely spot on and perfect or you get the maddening "boiling puddle" One last suggestion in my epic tale. I was dying watching how long it took you to sharpen your Tung. Get your self this Tung grinder and it will take you 5 seconds to have a perfect tip. I have 2 of these (1 at work and 1 at home) and they're cheap and work great! www.amazon.com/DIDUEMEN-Debugging-Electrode-Sharpener-Multi-Angle/dp/B09HX4PVVH/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=NY41ATYMOS0U&cv_ct_cx=tungsten+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._qBuu6FNnVIIdS2DWAKyakn3Lx7dqTJ4pvhT_6nYEqNvl7llbJ5G4g2bRB56e_7hngdvmSA8_FszeN_CjlJEoMMzPmpfqUz6ryhqMjMxkPQ.DQKhD_CuSJuz__Qbh3h90wPdM9047elp5uWS3Bzr8YE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B09HX4PVVH&pd_rd_r=90c08b12-0ec5-4bf4-8186-c5a34820e340&pd_rd_w=PpeMZ&pd_rd_wg=7PTZJ&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=H5X0WC0A7WWBYDXDCEP1&qid=1728151212&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tungsten%2Caps%2C159&sr=1-3-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
Weld spatter. A quick fix is to use “anti-spatter” spray. You’ll still get spatter, but it will clean off WAY easier than without the spray. Don’t you dare get rid of that old dinosaur welder for an inverter.
If I watch your videos after a Shannon Campbell video it makes me feel better. His shit comes out like it was cnc’d and I feel like I suck. Then I watch yours and I’m like “hey that’s how I do it” and feel better😂
I was trying to see a copyright or manufacturing date on your "asbestos" cutting table but couldn't find one. Watching your videos is motivating me to build my truck that I literally just got back picking up axles for (Toyota front solid axles). Loving the build series and can't wait to get to the rest.
I know it's likely too late but with leaf springs I've always liked to have the pinion point 1 or 2° below the Tcase output to counteract any minor axle wrap. I think it's just fine as is!!
@@Chasing518 I went 2° low on my rear with just a Mild SBC and 140:1 Crawl ratio and STILL had scarring on the air tank that sat above the pinion from it rotating up and hitting it 😬😬 I built a Anti Wrap bar immediately after that lol
Bronco Graveyard has thee worst shipping rates. I am in Ohio about 2-3 hours from them and I still pay premium shipping rates. The only reason I’m willing to pay their shipping is because they have things that others don’t and they take some of the guess work out. They know what you need. Also since I’m so close I see the stuff in 2 days which is nice.
I mean did you plug the vent since the truss blocks you from getting to it and oil will pump out without the breather hose since there isn't a hole in the truss to get in there.
Ah, i see. Because the truss is so “loose” on the backside, i can still access it. It will need a 90 degree fitting now, but the truss doesn’t block it.
Happy to see you got the wild card a hard working guy needs a break
Thank you. 👊🏻
Those bronco graveyard brackets are nice! When you pulled them out of the box i was like ohh daym them are thick!
@@joshuabaker5712 they are definitely beefy
Killer job! The OnX budget build lineup at SEMA is going to be epic with bluey! 🔥🔥
Thanks. Lots to do before then, but very excited
Loving this build can’t wait to see her done your doing a great job on the video’s can’t wait to see it on the trails.
Thank you! Just glad folks are watching/enjoying. I am very excited to drive this thing.
Love seeing your dad working hand n hand with ya! His hydration comment made me laugh!.
96% water!
Bluey is looking good!
Thank you!
Keep up the good work dude!!!
Thank you! Clock is ticking
Hi Kevin. From one armature welder to another, (I have decades of welding experience in many processes but am still learning) I too have experienced the absolutely maddening situation of the "boiling puddle" while TIG welding. In retrospect I can always realize that the situation was not perfect in one way or another. Here are some things that I have discovered to be definite issues when this happens:
1) when welding that area where the cast meets the steel tube: there is oil and who knows what other contaminants in the tiny gap between the tube OD and the cast where the tube is pressed into the bore of the cast part. I sometimes have good luck blasting this with brake clean and then immediately blowing the brake clean away with compressed air because the brake clean will leave a residue (contaminant!). This can actually clean inside that gap, at least a little, and often makes a huge difference.
2) poor shielding gas coverage: Sometimes I would think that I need to crank up the flow to get more gas on my puddle or to compensate for being out doors where there's a breeze. However, what I discovered often happens is that if your gas is coming out of the nozzle too fast AND if your torch is at a steep angle (like it sometimes has to be), that fast moving Argon will actually siphon in fresh air from behind the torch - this will make your puddle boil and bubble. This can be helped or eliminated by simply reducing the gas flow some. Also, ditch the stock gas nozzle for your torch and get a "gas lens" set up. A gas lens really settles the flow of Argon and makes it blanket your area and not just shoot across it. The stock nozzle is like a narrow stream fire hose and the gas lens is more like a wide cone spray pattern that moves slowly and covers a larger area.
3) as clean as that freshly sand blasted surface seams, it's not. It is embedded with all the garbage that has been taken off with the sand blaster in the past (I'm pretty sure those places recycle the sand media). It's the same situation as you discovering that you wire wheel being polluted. Grind everything off and wipe with acetone. You were spot on when you said you should keep devoted wire wheels for TIG. I have wire brushes that I write "TIG ONLY" on the handle just so I don't use them anywhere else.
Most of the time you can get away with murder by not fully prepping a TIG weld but sometimes things just have to be absolutely spot on and perfect or you get the maddening "boiling puddle"
One last suggestion in my epic tale. I was dying watching how long it took you to sharpen your Tung. Get your self this Tung grinder and it will take you 5 seconds to have a perfect tip. I have 2 of these (1 at work and 1 at home) and they're cheap and work great!
www.amazon.com/DIDUEMEN-Debugging-Electrode-Sharpener-Multi-Angle/dp/B09HX4PVVH/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5%3Aamzn1.sym.140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&crid=NY41ATYMOS0U&cv_ct_cx=tungsten+sharpener&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._qBuu6FNnVIIdS2DWAKyakn3Lx7dqTJ4pvhT_6nYEqNvl7llbJ5G4g2bRB56e_7hngdvmSA8_FszeN_CjlJEoMMzPmpfqUz6ryhqMjMxkPQ.DQKhD_CuSJuz__Qbh3h90wPdM9047elp5uWS3Bzr8YE&dib_tag=se&keywords=tungsten+sharpener&pd_rd_i=B09HX4PVVH&pd_rd_r=90c08b12-0ec5-4bf4-8186-c5a34820e340&pd_rd_w=PpeMZ&pd_rd_wg=7PTZJ&pf_rd_p=140400a7-1208-46ad-8d2a-eb6e8eac81b5&pf_rd_r=H5X0WC0A7WWBYDXDCEP1&qid=1728151212&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=tungsten%2Caps%2C159&sr=1-3-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
Awesome info! Thank you!
Enjoyed the build update and coming together nicely!
@@patrickobrien5424 thank you! It is really exciting.
Weld spatter. A quick fix is to use “anti-spatter” spray. You’ll still get spatter, but it will clean off WAY easier than without the spray.
Don’t you dare get rid of that old dinosaur welder for an inverter.
If I watch your videos after a Shannon Campbell video it makes me feel better. His shit comes out like it was cnc’d and I feel like I suck. Then I watch yours and I’m like “hey that’s how I do it” and feel better😂
😂thanks? I know exactly what you mean. Here to show that we all can’t be awesome like our fabrication/racing heroes!
It’s a fancy way of saying you’re relatable!
Keep up the good work🔥
Turning out good, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thank you for the watch!
I was trying to see a copyright or manufacturing date on your "asbestos" cutting table but couldn't find one.
Watching your videos is motivating me to build my truck that I literally just got back picking up axles for (Toyota front solid axles). Loving the build series and can't wait to get to the rest.
I’ll have to look up the saw’s age by its serial number.
I know it's likely too late but with leaf springs I've always liked to have the pinion point 1 or 2° below the Tcase output to counteract any minor axle wrap. I think it's just fine as is!!
Yep! It is currently just over 2 degrees low at ride height, so it might be okay.
@@Chasing518 I went 2° low on my rear with just a Mild SBC and 140:1 Crawl ratio and STILL had scarring on the air tank that sat above the pinion from it rotating up and hitting it 😬😬
I built a Anti Wrap bar immediately after that lol
@@TyphoidSnaily more worried/want it to be vibration free on the highway. Wrap I will deal with later.
@@Chasing518 I gotcha, Well with my pinion 2 Deg below tcase output I had no vibrations or anything even up at 80mph (downhill lol).
Bronco Graveyard has thee worst shipping rates. I am in Ohio about 2-3 hours from them and I still pay premium shipping rates. The only reason I’m willing to pay their shipping is because they have things that others don’t and they take some of the guess work out. They know what you need. Also since I’m so close I see the stuff in 2 days which is nice.
@@ggfleadguitar14 well at least it isn’t just a California problem!
arachnophobia - John Goodman with his flame thrower - lol. Get that spider!
nailed it! that was the one.
Thank you ultra4jones for helped me on double checking my rear end pinion angle for a custom drive shaft. Great tech tip.
Right on! Thanks for watching
My wife also refuses to wear proper footwear in the garage. "Can i get away with flip flops?" is a line ive heard before lol
Story of my life
@@Chasing518 so thankful they are good sports about our tomfoolery 🙏
Tweco for the Mig, CK Worldwide for the Tig.
i see the little misses moves pretty quick when you have a torch in your hand.
cold blooded! needs that heat to get moving! lol
Let’s goo
Oh we going!
Did you put a plug in the vent hole before welding on the truss?
I am pulling the axle apart to replace axle seals, so it will get cleaned out real good once I am done welding on brackets
I mean did you plug the vent since the truss blocks you from getting to it and oil will pump out without the breather hose since there isn't a hole in the truss to get in there.
Ah, i see. Because the truss is so “loose” on the backside, i can still access it. It will need a 90 degree fitting now, but the truss doesn’t block it.
Try changing the polarity of your earth lead to reduce the spatter.
As in put the ground clamp on positive and the gun on negative??
No clearance issues with the truss and crossmber?
No clue! Have never even placed axle under truck
@@Chasing518 I’m rootin for you!!!!!!!
Toss those factory pinion wedges in the trash, they are known to crack.
Good to know!! It looks like with the shackle flip, i won’t need them. Pinion is 2 degrees down (in relation to aimed at t case), so it might be okay
🎉