Wollte eigentlich nur eine Pad-instandsetzung sehen aber das Video hat mich ein wenig hypnotisiert :D So ich durchforste dann mal den rest deiner Videos
Thanks alot very good video. I like that you are using text instead of the voice or music. Alot of these repairs people are talking too much and that you explain everything you are doing is amaing because i'm just bhought my self a reapir system so i'm about to start it my self so learning step-by-step how to reballing is very useful. I have seen hundreds of videos about doing repairs, but this video has too be the best one so far. Even though you didn't fix the issue, but you showed alot of issue too fix in details.
Das ist ja sehr fummelig🧐, interessant ...🤷♀️ich verstehe zwar gar nix, aber du machst das sehr gut👍. Du könntest ruhig mal auf deutsch dazu reden, weil du hast ne schöne Stimme. Viele Grüße von deiner Friseurin🙋♀️
The HDMI ic costs atm aprox 40€ itself. And the customer desides not to put more money in this repair. After reflow the HDMI ic, I tested the caps, filters and HDMI port. All fine. There is an output at 480p in safe mode but when resolution changed to 720p or 1080p the screen stays black. If the customer would have agreed to continue, I would have changed the HDMI ic. But it is always a risk if a board has privious repair attemps and could end up in a rabbit hole.
@stentofix thanks again , I have a reflow unit but my experience on APU is limited ,however I will try and reflow to see if it comes back to life , if not I may even try a relball if it fails ,will keep you updated and perhaps we could put a signature on that error 👍
Thanks you. Background music would more distract me while I'm troubleshooting. For monotone works like placing hunderts of solderballs on an ic, I sometimes hear podcasts with handphones. So it doesn't appear in my videos. I have some donor boards for parts. Sometimes I prepare some ics in advance.
@stentofix , just a quick update re my last question after playing with the board a bit I found that if the Apu clamp was released it would stay in BLOD so i conclude that the problem is the APU as on reapplying the the clamp the iboard will boot to white but then turn to pulsing blue. and abit of a query about the Uart rtc if you know , I was reading inthe forum that there should be a time stamp after every error is that correct, did you manage to find out if thats correct if not is the southbridge at fault thanks in advance 👍
It sounds like a reballing for the APU is needed to fix the contact problem. Yes, the second row after the eight digit error number is the time stamp. If the battery is taken off, the time stamp will always starts at 00000000.
@stentofix , thanks , can I ask,is it possible to get error code with no timestamp but with attached good battery ,which sounds contradictory , but would indicate some fault relating the the southbridge tks
Yes, it is possible to get errors with no time stamp. I just saw some error codes with no time stamps. (gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10342695) They are all Exxxxxxx errors and may indicate problems with southbridge or nor, as you wrote.
I appreciate your videos. I wonder if you have come a cross this, UART shows DRR4 issue. Is this near the ssd controller above as only 1 there. I understand ps5 has DDR6 not DDR4? What is your take on this. Can this DDR4 be changed from another board or game over? Can you change 1 RaM with other the make from diffent ps5 board. I have seen people changing them with same Ram. It so not clear whether this can be done.
Thank you. The one single chip for the SSD controller is a DDR4 and the eight main RAM ics for the APU are GDDR6. You can replace every single RAM ics with one from a donor board. The only thing the eight GDDR6 RAMs must be the same brand/type and can't be mixed.
Good job, thanks for sharing.. I have a ps5 with blue light and it turns off, it has all the voltages and correct stanby sequence.. I thinks is bad apu, I try to make uart like your video with ch340, it connects but no error appears when writing "errlog 0 ".. what can happen?.. thank you
@@stetofix I made a stupid mistake connecting the ch340 pins, yes now... the output is OK 00000000 80810001 FFFFFFFF FFFF0023 00000100 217F 0016 40A0 0000:96 ... dead Apu? Thanks for reply
@@atlascoo7971 Like in the list (gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10305776) the error 80810001 is a general power failure. I would check if there are more errors. Please contact me at gbatemp.net (stetofix)
Thank you. It is an AOYUE Int853A Pro. I bought it from a german seller. This offer should be the same: www.walmart.com/ip/Aoyue-853A-Pro-Quartz-Preheating-Station/513903268
I would check UART, but I think it is unlikely, that the soutbridge will catch an event like RAM, SSD or VRM issues if the system is booting normal and starts failing at PS5 games. But maybe you are lucky.
@stetofix I have no other option since I already replaced psu with no difference. There is no sign of high temperature at all, the console is working normally.... The symptoms are not related to software, all tests have been made. Ps5 games are playable only for 3 mins maximum (shutdown, game app error or freeze). Even astro playroom. There is not much info available on this issue. I shall come back with uart results.
@@stetofix I am giving another hint just before uart, don't know if it's relevant cause consoles underperform in such way. With the TV turned off ps5 games do not crash, sound comes from dualsense and vibration too. When I tested stream using remote play in a mobile device I had again system crash.
Top Video. 👌 Ich hab mal ne Frage: Ich habe mir auch WEETOOLS und nen Programmer besorgt. Leider erkennt mein PC nicht den Serial Port USB. wenn ich aber den WINBOND direkt auflöte und mit dem Programmer in den USB packe dann kann ich den chip auslesen. Also Programmer funktioniert. Hast du noch nen Treiber oder so für WEETOOLS installieren müssen damit er erkannt wird? Danke schonmal im Vorraus😅 😅😅
Wenn der Programmer nicht zum Aulesen des WINBOND Chips sondern zur Kommunikation mit der Southbridge genutzt werden soll, muss der Programmer auf TTL umgestellt werden. Beim CH341A ist auf der Seite ein Jumper der von 1-2 auf 2-3 gesteckt werden müsste. Dann sollte es mit der Com über RX/TX funktioniren.
@@stetofix Saugeil für deine schnelle Antwort. Werde ich morgen gleich mal ausprobieren. 👍 Bin übrigens jetzt schon gespannt auf ein neues Video von dir. 😎 Vielleicht kannst du ja ein paar Temperaturen in dein Video packen. Nutze übrigens auch nen Vorheitzer. Dadurch wölbt sich das Board nicht so und es benötigt weniger wärme von oben.
@stetofix, Would you be so kind as to provide a link for the programmer and did you buy the programmer with the 3.3v fix or did you perform the fix yourself? Thank you. :)
I bought the CH341A programmer I guess at amazon: www.amazon.de/TECNOIOT-CH341A-EEPROM-Programmer-Software/dp/B07RKXSMKH The 3.3v fix/mod I perform myself. Here in this gbatemp.net post is a image of the 3.3V mod: gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-setup-ch341a.647692/
It is an old version of 'Mechaniker IX5 max mini'. I like this method very much, because I struggled in the beginning very much at reballing Switch SoCs with magnetic holder and solder paste or solder balls. So I tried placing the solder balls with a stencil, take the stencil off and place the ic on that hot plate. Now I'm using this method for mostly all bigger ics.
@@stetofix nice. I use to struggle with the stencils before, but my main struggle now is using hot air to get the balls to flow. Most times they move because of the airflow, and get merged. Too low of an airflow and it takes too long, too high and the balls move around. I will try the hot plate method. Thanks!
There are three ssd nand ics which can not be swapped. If they are swapped, the PS5 will not turn on anymore. On ssd controller side the single one. On the backside the both in the same orientation.
Please, can you explain to me what I need to start the UART, I have a CH341A, I know how to connect GND, RX and TX, jumper to the second and third pin. What do I need from the program, do I need to pay anything, is there a tutorial for it, any help would be great, thanks?
Here is a link to gbatemp.net: ( gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-setup-ch341a.647692/ ) I use the free program PS5 Wee Tools from Andy-man. ( github.com/andy-man/ps5-wee-tools ) An error code list is here: gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10305776 If you want to buy an expensive all-in-one solution: I would check BwE.
@@stetofix Ok, I downloaded this wee tool, when I run it nothing happens, then I downloaded python and it starts but it says "no module named serial" I don't know what to do next.
Hi like your videos very informative , have been playing with Uart but none of my error codes seem to match anything that I have found . Have been following J D tech and I was wondering where to find the SSD ram chart that shows me what chips I can change 2 on one side 1on the other perhaps you could help tks
Hi thanks very much , i have board that does not fully boot ( blue , white , pulsing blue , hangs on ps logo , ) but takes software update I will take uart error and is there a database that I could add it too if succesfull tks
@@SuperEmil2010 I don't know if it is normal. The error code is pointing towards the USB C ciruits. I would make sure that the readings at the associated chips and lines are fine again and than move on to other issues. Some problems with core features (bad WiFi/bad disc drive/bad USB/...) can cause a PS5 to not(re) install any firmware.
@@stetofix ok danke. wenn ich nun löte, haben meine lötpunkte immer so eine spitze oben drauf und sind nicht rund und flach wie die originalen lötpunkte. woran liegt das?
@@onehitwonder4470 Es könnte an fehlendem Flussmittel liegen. Mit Flussmittel oxidiert das Lot nicht und der aufgeheizte Flüssigkeitsfilm sorgt für ein 'Perlen' der Lot-Oberfläche, was beim Abkühlen runde, glatte und sogar spiegelnde Lötstellen bewirkt.
@@stetofix komisch. war schkn alles voller flussmittel. macht das bei no clean was aus, wenn das auf dem board bleibt? hab da zwidchen den komponenten richtige dicke schichten ab und an. schwer zu beschreiben.
@@onehitwonder4470 Bei No clean muss das Flussmittel nicht zwingend vom Board gewaschen/geputzt werden, da es nicht die Leiterbahnen korridiert. Zum Löten trage ich frisches Flussmittel auf die Lötstelle auf und wenn der Lötkolben genug Leistung hat, sind auch große GND Pads kein Hinderniss für 'schöne' Lötpunkte.
Hi again thanks for the info I have used uart to guide and get error “80C00140” according to your excellent List it is APU Freeze and Referes to DDR 6 Can you clarify it is ram replacement ,not APU . Many thanks for your help👍👍
'80C00140 APU Freeze (No Response) - GDDR6 data line problem (replace)' refers to a data line problem between APU and GDDR6 RAM ics. But I don't kown if the com is interrupted at the APU or and one of the GDDR6 RAM ics. From my point of view, it could be a broken trace/solderball under the APU or one of the GDDR6 RAM ics.
@@stetofixthats cool yes ,I am unsure too. Will probably go for a ram reflow to see it it makes any difference . Many tks for the reply looking forward to your next video
Sad, I feel for you, I had a dead PS5, fixed the power supply and it was still dead, replaced the southbridge and it worked. I thought that was it but the console won't update, now I'm waiting for the SSD controller, I think that's the problem. I've never done a UART check on a PS5, I have a CH341A, maybe I could do that too. Basically, I wish us better luck next time 🙂
Thank you. I hope that new SSD controller will solve the update issue. 'fingers crossed' With UART I added more informations to a case. Not allways usefull, but sometimes like in this case pinpointing the defect exactly.
@@stetofixhonestly there are many videos and resources by the cod3r here on UA-cam. He found several fixes before anyone else. He's even got a bios flashing setup and website with updated fixes and diagnostics.
@@stetofix my point was if you look through his videos you might find one that matches this ps5s problems. He has a website as well with information to help narrow the problem down.
Yes, it would be nice to have a fitting stencil for every ic. But sometimes it is quicker to reball by hand instead of waiting for a stencil to be delivered. :)
Wollte eigentlich nur eine Pad-instandsetzung sehen aber das Video hat mich ein wenig hypnotisiert :D
So ich durchforste dann mal den rest deiner Videos
Viel Spaß beim Anschauen. :)
Thanks alot very good video.
I like that you are using text instead of the voice or music. Alot of these repairs people are talking too much and that you explain everything you are doing is amaing because i'm just bhought my self a reapir system so i'm about to start it my self so learning step-by-step how to reballing is very useful.
I have seen hundreds of videos about doing repairs, but this video has too be the best one so far. Even though you didn't fix the issue, but you showed alot of issue too fix in details.
Thank you.
Nice job stetofix. Wish my work bench was that clean hehe. :) Nice content. I subscribed. Keep up the great work. :)
Thank you. :)
Das ist ja sehr fummelig🧐, interessant ...🤷♀️ich verstehe zwar gar nix, aber du machst das sehr gut👍. Du könntest ruhig mal auf deutsch dazu reden, weil du hast ne schöne Stimme. Viele Grüße von deiner Friseurin🙋♀️
Vielen lieben Dank. :) Das Format ist zunächst der erste grobe Schuß. Das wird sich mit kommenden Videos noch entwickeln.
Is the HDMI IC really that expensive? Also, have you checked filters on HDMI lines and capacitors around IC for shorts?
The HDMI ic costs atm aprox 40€ itself. And the customer desides not to put more money in this repair. After reflow the HDMI ic, I tested the caps, filters and HDMI port. All fine. There is an output at 480p in safe mode but when resolution changed to 720p or 1080p the screen stays black. If the customer would have agreed to continue, I would have changed the HDMI ic.
But it is always a risk if a board has privious repair attemps and could end up in a rabbit hole.
What is the name of your preheater? (In 10:49)
It is a Aoyue Int 853A Pro
@stentofix thanks again , I have a reflow unit but my experience on APU is limited ,however I will try and reflow to see if it comes back to life , if not I may even try a relball if it fails ,will keep you updated and perhaps we could put a signature on that error 👍
Would be nice to know how it turns out. :) Fingers crossed.
Thank you for not having any background music! 👍
No donor boards to take from?
Thanks you. Background music would more distract me while I'm troubleshooting. For monotone works like placing hunderts of solderballs on an ic, I sometimes hear podcasts with handphones. So it doesn't appear in my videos.
I have some donor boards for parts. Sometimes I prepare some ics in advance.
@stentofix , just a quick update re my last question after playing with the board a bit I found that if the Apu clamp was released it would stay in BLOD so i conclude that the problem is the APU as on reapplying the the clamp the iboard will boot to white but then turn to pulsing blue. and abit of a query about the Uart rtc if you know , I was reading inthe forum that there should be a time stamp after every error is that correct, did you manage to find out if thats correct if not is the southbridge at fault thanks in advance 👍
It sounds like a reballing for the APU is needed to fix the contact problem.
Yes, the second row after the eight digit error number is the time stamp. If the battery is taken off, the time stamp will always starts at 00000000.
@stentofix , thanks , can I ask,is it possible to get error code with no timestamp but with attached good battery ,which sounds contradictory , but would indicate some fault relating the the southbridge tks
Yes, it is possible to get errors with no time stamp. I just saw some error codes with no time stamps. (gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10342695)
They are all Exxxxxxx errors and may indicate problems with southbridge or nor, as you wrote.
I appreciate your videos. I wonder if you have come a cross this, UART shows DRR4 issue. Is this near the ssd controller above as only 1 there. I understand ps5 has DDR6 not DDR4? What is your take on this. Can this DDR4 be changed from another board or game over?
Can you change 1 RaM with other the make from diffent ps5 board. I have seen people changing them with same Ram. It so not clear whether this can be done.
Thank you. The one single chip for the SSD controller is a DDR4 and the eight main RAM ics for the APU are GDDR6. You can replace every single RAM ics with one from a donor board. The only thing the eight GDDR6 RAMs must be the same brand/type and can't be mixed.
@stetofix Thank you very much for your reply. What about that 1 DDR4 can be replaced by a good donor board?
Good job, thanks for sharing.. I have a ps5 with blue light and it turns off, it has all the voltages and correct stanby sequence.. I thinks is bad apu, I try to make uart like your video with ch340, it connects but no error appears when writing "errlog 0 ".. what can happen?.. thank you
Thank you.
An answer for 'errlog 0' with no error should be:
OK FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF FFFF:FF
@@stetofix I made a stupid mistake connecting the ch340 pins, yes now... the output is
OK 00000000 80810001 FFFFFFFF FFFF0023 00000100 217F 0016 40A0 0000:96
... dead Apu?
Thanks for reply
@@atlascoo7971 Like in the list (gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10305776) the error 80810001 is a general power failure. I would check if there are more errors. Please contact me at gbatemp.net (stetofix)
Where can I get that notepad with the checklist of errors
I posted a error code list at gbatemp.net. (gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10305776)
What temp do you set your preheater for this?
I try to get 150°C in the pcb where I want to solder. The setting for the preheater is a bit higher (~200°C).
Great work may I ask where did you get mb preheater
Thank you. It is an AOYUE Int853A Pro. I bought it from a german seller. This offer should be the same: www.walmart.com/ip/Aoyue-853A-Pro-Quartz-Preheating-Station/513903268
@@stetofixthanks I appreciate the hasty response
I have problem in console that plays Only ps4 games. All ps5s crash (freeze, game error or shutdown) uart diagnosis shall help. Any tip?
I would check UART, but I think it is unlikely, that the soutbridge will catch an event like RAM, SSD or VRM issues if the system is booting normal and starts failing at PS5 games. But maybe you are lucky.
@stetofix I have no other option since I already replaced psu with no difference. There is no sign of high temperature at all, the console is working normally.... The symptoms are not related to software, all tests have been made. Ps5 games are playable only for 3 mins maximum (shutdown, game app error or freeze). Even astro playroom. There is not much info available on this issue. I shall come back with uart results.
@@stetofix I am giving another hint just before uart, don't know if it's relevant cause consoles underperform in such way. With the TV turned off ps5 games do not crash, sound comes from dualsense and vibration too. When I tested stream using remote play in a mobile device I had again system crash.
Top Video. 👌
Ich hab mal ne Frage: Ich habe mir auch WEETOOLS und nen Programmer besorgt. Leider erkennt mein PC nicht den Serial Port USB. wenn ich aber den WINBOND direkt auflöte und mit dem Programmer in den USB packe dann kann ich den chip auslesen. Also Programmer funktioniert. Hast du noch nen Treiber oder so für WEETOOLS installieren müssen damit er erkannt wird? Danke schonmal im Vorraus😅 😅😅
Wenn der Programmer nicht zum Aulesen des WINBOND Chips sondern zur Kommunikation mit der Southbridge genutzt werden soll, muss der Programmer auf TTL umgestellt werden. Beim CH341A ist auf der Seite ein Jumper der von 1-2 auf 2-3 gesteckt werden müsste. Dann sollte es mit der Com über RX/TX funktioniren.
@@stetofix Saugeil für deine schnelle Antwort. Werde ich morgen gleich mal ausprobieren. 👍
Bin übrigens jetzt schon gespannt auf ein neues Video von dir. 😎
Vielleicht kannst du ja ein paar Temperaturen in dein Video packen. Nutze übrigens auch nen Vorheitzer. Dadurch wölbt sich das Board nicht so und es benötigt weniger wärme von oben.
Any way I can get the file has the error ? Please and thank you
Please contact me (stetofix) at gbatemp.net
@stetofix, Would you be so kind as to provide a link for the programmer and did you buy the programmer with the 3.3v fix or did you perform the fix yourself? Thank you. :)
I bought the CH341A programmer I guess at amazon: www.amazon.de/TECNOIOT-CH341A-EEPROM-Programmer-Software/dp/B07RKXSMKH
The 3.3v fix/mod I perform myself. Here in this gbatemp.net post is a image of the 3.3V mod: gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-setup-ch341a.647692/
Excellent! Thank you for sharing :) Much appreciated. :)
Show us your fume extractor ❤
The fume extractor ist a 2UUL uuFilter. It does its job ok for my little workbench.
@@stetofixI will check it on Google thanks 🙏
which hot plate is that you used for reballing the southbridge m8? looks sooooo much easier than using hot air!
It is an old version of 'Mechaniker IX5 max mini'. I like this method very much, because I struggled in the beginning very much at reballing Switch SoCs with magnetic holder and solder paste or solder balls. So I tried placing the solder balls with a stencil, take the stencil off and place the ic on that hot plate. Now I'm using this method for mostly all bigger ics.
@@stetofix nice. I use to struggle with the stencils before, but my main struggle now is using hot air to get the balls to flow. Most times they move because of the airflow, and get merged. Too low of an airflow and it takes too long, too high and the balls move around. I will try the hot plate method. Thanks!
I thought the SSD controller chipset was married?! This is not the case, can we change it then?
The ssd controller is exchangeable. Three of the six ssd ics are no exchangeable, because there is unique data on it.
so there is the nand ssd which contains the firmware, what are the other two non-interchangeable chips please?@@stetofix
There are three ssd nand ics which can not be swapped. If they are swapped, the PS5 will not turn on anymore. On ssd controller side the single one. On the backside the both in the same orientation.
this is very valuable information thank you very much@@stetofix
@@stetofix I have the error code 80871055 SSD and 80C00140 GDDR6 with uart, do you advise me to replace the SSD chipset or change the GDDR6 ?
Please, can you explain to me what I need to start the UART, I have a CH341A, I know how to connect GND, RX and TX, jumper to the second and third pin. What do I need from the program, do I need to pay anything, is there a tutorial for it, any help would be great, thanks?
Here is a link to gbatemp.net: ( gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-setup-ch341a.647692/ )
I use the free program PS5 Wee Tools from Andy-man. ( github.com/andy-man/ps5-wee-tools )
An error code list is here: gbatemp.net/threads/ps5-uart-commands.642741/post-10305776
If you want to buy an expensive all-in-one solution: I would check BwE.
@@stetofix Ok, I downloaded this wee tool, when I run it nothing happens, then I downloaded python and it starts but it says "no module named serial" I don't know what to do next.
@@Can3Fix I downloaded the zip from the release page, unzipped it and started the exe. If this is not working for you, I don't have any ideas. Sorry.
Hi like your videos very informative , have been playing with Uart but none of my error codes seem to match anything that I have found . Have been following J D tech and I was wondering where to find the SSD ram chart that shows me what chips I can change 2 on one side 1on the other perhaps you could help tks
Hi. Thank you. Replaceable are the both ssd ics with same orientation on the ssd controller side and the single one on the backside.
Hi thanks very much , i have board that does not fully boot ( blue , white , pulsing blue , hangs on ps logo , ) but takes software update I will take uart error and is there a database that I could add it too if succesfull tks
Hello i have uart Error Code 808C3090 Power Failure PWM or Unspecific i need help
The Errorcode 808C3090 is a USB C problem. Please check the lines and ics in the USB C ciruits.
@stetofix OK and it won't let you install any system software, is that normal?
@@SuperEmil2010 I don't know if it is normal. The error code is pointing towards the USB C ciruits. I would make sure that the readings at the associated chips and lines are fine again and than move on to other issues. Some problems with core features (bad WiFi/bad disc drive/bad USB/...) can cause a PS5 to not(re) install any firmware.
@@stetofix so I wouldn't have 5v on the usb c port?
@@SuperEmil2010 For further help, please post on bgatemp.net
was fürn heissluftfön nimmst du?
Das ist ein WTHA1 von Weller. Als Einstieg wäre ein Atten ST-862D mehr als ausreichend.
@@stetofix ok danke. wenn ich nun löte, haben meine lötpunkte immer so eine spitze oben drauf und sind nicht rund und flach wie die originalen lötpunkte. woran liegt das?
@@onehitwonder4470 Es könnte an fehlendem Flussmittel liegen. Mit Flussmittel oxidiert das Lot nicht und der aufgeheizte Flüssigkeitsfilm sorgt für ein 'Perlen' der Lot-Oberfläche, was beim Abkühlen runde, glatte und sogar spiegelnde Lötstellen bewirkt.
@@stetofix komisch. war schkn alles voller flussmittel. macht das bei no clean was aus, wenn das auf dem board bleibt? hab da zwidchen den komponenten richtige dicke schichten ab und an. schwer zu beschreiben.
@@onehitwonder4470 Bei No clean muss das Flussmittel nicht zwingend vom Board gewaschen/geputzt werden, da es nicht die Leiterbahnen korridiert. Zum Löten trage ich frisches Flussmittel auf die Lötstelle auf und wenn der Lötkolben genug Leistung hat, sind auch große GND Pads kein Hinderniss für 'schöne' Lötpunkte.
Hi again thanks for the info I have used uart to guide and get error “80C00140” according to your excellent List it is APU Freeze and Referes to DDR 6 Can you clarify it is ram replacement ,not APU . Many thanks for your help👍👍
'80C00140 APU Freeze (No Response) - GDDR6 data line problem (replace)' refers to a data line problem between APU and GDDR6 RAM ics. But I don't kown if the com is interrupted at the APU or and one of the GDDR6 RAM ics. From my point of view, it could be a broken trace/solderball under the APU or one of the GDDR6 RAM ics.
@@stetofixthats cool yes ,I am unsure too. Will probably go for a ram reflow to see it it makes any difference . Many tks for the reply looking forward to your next video
buito bom o video consegui deixa tabela codigo erros
Muito obrigado.
fez o mais difícil...
A prática leva à perfeição :)
Sad, I feel for you, I had a dead PS5, fixed the power supply and it was still dead, replaced the southbridge and it worked. I thought that was it but the console won't update, now I'm waiting for the SSD controller, I think that's the problem. I've never done a UART check on a PS5, I have a CH341A, maybe I could do that too. Basically, I wish us better luck next time 🙂
Thank you. I hope that new SSD controller will solve the update issue. 'fingers crossed'
With UART I added more informations to a case. Not allways usefull, but sometimes like in this case pinpointing the defect exactly.
@@stetofixhonestly there are many videos and resources by the cod3r here on UA-cam. He found several fixes before anyone else. He's even got a bios flashing setup and website with updated fixes and diagnostics.
@B9NE Sorry, I don't get your point.
If you want to explain, please pm me at tronicsfixforum or gbatemp (same username). Thank you.
@@stetofix there is another person on UA-cam. His name is "the cod3r." He has found many new fixes for the PS5. That's who I was talking about.
@@stetofix my point was if you look through his videos you might find one that matches this ps5s problems. He has a website as well with information to help narrow the problem down.
Трафарет не судьба купить😂
Yes, it would be nice to have a fitting stencil for every ic. But sometimes it is quicker to reball by hand instead of waiting for a stencil to be delivered. :)
@@stetofix Ну каждый раз по 300 шаров выкладывать :), лучше подождать трафарет.