Well worded and brill detail , watched your 3.0 engine build and have now completed 2 engine snapped crankshaft rebuilds using genuine cranks sweet as a nut now, will attempt handbrake next, I was wondering leaving the module in place if you were to take both cables off the back plates and pushed the n/s cable hard back into the module and snap the emergency release catch back into play, then clockwise wind the o/s cable till it came off the gearbox pull rod then wind it back anti-clockwise 5 turns, then make sure handbrake shoe levers are free and adjusted correctly it may just work again, worth a try. cheers again Derek
New sub here. Great to see the repair actually work! As I said on one of the other vids I had the misfortune of carrying out epb repair and it not working afterwards!😡 9 hours of my life I will never get back
Well done - and no blood on your hands. Changing the brake shoes on my MkII Consul back in the 70s - always used to lose the odd bit of skin, f'ing springs 🤬
Excellent video's, You are certainly a lot calmer than me when things repeatedly go wrong, I bought new shoes and a fitting kit for my daughters' RR sport the kit was crap, didn't even have the pins jut 2 little springs instead, which I have no idea where they go, probably a different car, BMW maybe, anyway, went to fit the smaller spring that goes across the knurled adjuster, and it snapped, so the old one went in. The bigger spring was a real pain to fit, I didn't check the length but fear it may be too short like yours, I did get it on but it was a nightmare fitting the flat bar with the spring at one end, got the near side on and I've given up for today, but will be back on it tomorrow, to do the drivers side, I am full of a cold too so sympathise with how you were feeling. I undone the nuts on my actuator unit, Thankfully all 4 came out, albeit slowly, I ended up using a 3/8th AF 3/8th drive socket which fitted far better than a 10mm, but I decided not to take it right out just yet and take a chance with the new shoes as the old ones were obliterated, these cars really attract the rust and I didn't fancy all those cable bolts unless I really have to as I am working with axle stands on my drive. Anyway I really enjoyed the videos, very informative, i will check in for some more very soon. the best of health to you, Keith.👍
There is a knack to fitting the shoes, I've done so many now that I find them easy and probably make it look easy too. Put the epb into service mode and provided the actuator isn't stuck then it should give you more cable. I showed how to do it one of the videos, I forgot which one. All the best, cheers for watching.
My discovery 3 hand brake not work in anyway after changed the gear and cable. I find out why. The new cable not come with a lock as you showed on video. All the time the cable loosing because was travelling to far. Than You showed on this video. Safe lot time. Thank You for a great video.
Your video have inspired me to buy a range rover. 😎 previous owner suspects it needs an engine rebuild.. but for 1400 quid can't go wrong, if I can't fix it, there's profit in selling it for parts. 😁 lovely cars though I am hopeful I can repair it.
Hi Steve, well done with sticking with it✊🇬🇧 I have just carried a replacement of the Hand brake shoes etc on my 2005 Disco! what a proper pain the arse project! Got there in the end! Swore much more than you and got the proper miseries a few times!🤬🤣 Anyway just picked up on your channel love your approach keep up the good work and stay safe All the best Martin.👍✊🍻
Great 3 part video Steve, i have watched the process a few times now and i have come to the conclusion i won't be replacing or fixing mine which seized on me last weekend. My local garage will get the hassle and headache. Just out of curiosity how much would you have charged for this job on a 2013 l320 ? fitting new genuine LR actuator and shoes ?
Steve, great video as usual and I have watched it several times now and repaired my EPB following your guide, thanks mate. The one mistake we made was not getting pictures of the cable routing when we removed them, as you mentioned to your mate in the vid dont worry I know how the cables route for refitting but you didnt show any close up shots when you refitted. The first bit is easy because of the p clip positions but when you brought the cables over and down and the routed them back up it wasnt obvious of the next bit of the route. Do they then go through the largish holes each side then route out to each axle and the large wire retainers ?? Would appreciate some feedback as doing on the drive is a bit harder and daunting! Cheers again for all the effort you put in especially the snoring dog, love it!
This is going to be hard to explain! Once you've got the P clips in the sort of right place, the cables go up and over the chassis and back on themselves, on the nearside it goes up and over just behind the suspension compressor, they clip into a bracket on the chassis and there is a rubber grommet on the cables which go into the clip. It's quite a fiddle to get the grommet into the clip. After that they go into the backplate and hook behind the wire hook on the lower wishbones.
@@pistonbroke Thank you so much for the quick response, I will dive under later and see if that makes sense once looking at it in situ. Keep up the good work, thanks again.
Hi, I’ve just replaced my handbrake cables and the cables that I removed didn’t have a sir clip on either side? My sport is a 2012 model. Would this year have the clips as I’ve replaced everything without a sir clip.
Any advice for mine? The actuator sounds normal and I can hear it wind in and out when I pull or push the button. No errors on the dash, but one rear wheel is jammed on and the other side works normally. I need to release one side but I dont want to pull the release under the centre console because I dont think the problem is the actuator.
Could be a couple of reasons. I've seen the linings come off the handbrake shoes causing it to bind on one side, seized cable(s), seized levers or over adjusted. You need to get the disc off and have a look.
Hi great video, I feel your pain.. I had the same problem, with the handbrake cable rubber that had split and caused the cable to seize, also got a cog kit and replaced the cog inside the epb that had come loose due to the cable being seized. It's been working perfect for 8 months, but now I get the flashing red and yellow warning on the dash, but if I cycle the ignition a few times it dissapears and the handbrake will operate correctly one time only, then I get the flashing symbols again. The epb releases normally when I drive away aswell. Do you know what could be the problem please. Great video it's such a pig of a job.
@@pistonbroke Hi thanks for your reply it's U2002 switch general electrical? I've taken the switch itself out and replaced it, but having the same issue? Thanks for your response.
Sorry, didn't see your reply till now. Could be a switch fault but I've seen this code when the switch is pulled up too slowly. Stupid I know but if you pull the switch up at a certain speed, it will generate this DTC. More than likely a switch fault though but check wiring first
HI BUDDY HOW DID YOU REFIT THE MODULE COVER AS YOU HADE TO GRIND OFF THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING IT IN PLACE CHEERS WE HAVE TO REPLACE OURS AND THE NUTS ARE SHAGGED WOULD APPRECIATE YOU REPLY CHEERS LOUIS
@@pistonbroke I was just watching your video which is well presented I must admit , I was just thinking surely there is enough room to take the cover off , disconnect the cables and replace with new ones
would i.need to get a new modul programed or is it plug snd play . lr4 2013. ive changed the gears and all the breaking system .put it bavk together its saying handbreak latching failure ? any idea why that woukd be ?
@Piston Broke Garage sorry latch it ? i just but it back togther one side turned it five times. and the other side put it on the clip part..reconnect the part that was aprt for the emergency release.
Ok so if you clipped the two cables together on the emergency release bit then it's latched. Possibly a fault on the part with the ribbon cable, that's the bit that tells it whether it's latched or not. Can you hear it trying to work when you pull the switch?
fantastic job well done looking foward to the next one, keep working👍
Well worded and brill detail , watched your 3.0 engine build and have now completed 2 engine snapped crankshaft rebuilds using genuine cranks sweet as a nut now, will attempt handbrake next, I was wondering leaving the module in place if you were to take both cables off the back plates and pushed the n/s cable hard back into the module and snap the emergency release catch back into play, then clockwise wind the o/s cable till it came off the gearbox pull rod then wind it back anti-clockwise 5 turns, then make sure handbrake shoe levers are free and adjusted correctly it may just work again, worth a try. cheers again Derek
Killed it !! Hard graft got there in the end. !! Thanks for the tips not looking forward to this job. Appreciate the content ✌️
New sub here. Great to see the repair actually work! As I said on one of the other vids I had the misfortune of carrying out epb repair and it not working afterwards!😡 9 hours of my life I will never get back
Well done - and no blood on your hands. Changing the brake shoes on my MkII Consul back in the 70s - always used to lose the odd bit of skin, f'ing springs 🤬
I think I'd rather do shoes on a consul!
Excellent video's, You are certainly a lot calmer than me when things repeatedly go wrong, I bought new shoes and a fitting kit for my daughters' RR sport the kit was crap, didn't even have the pins jut 2 little springs instead, which I have no idea where they go, probably a different car, BMW maybe, anyway, went to fit the smaller spring that goes across the knurled adjuster, and it snapped, so the old one went in. The bigger spring was a real pain to fit, I didn't check the length but fear it may be too short like yours, I did get it on but it was a nightmare fitting the flat bar with the spring at one end, got the near side on and I've given up for today, but will be back on it tomorrow, to do the drivers side, I am full of a cold too so sympathise with how you were feeling. I undone the nuts on my actuator unit, Thankfully all 4 came out, albeit slowly, I ended up using a 3/8th AF 3/8th drive socket which fitted far better than a 10mm, but I decided not to take it right out just yet and take a chance with the new shoes as the old ones were obliterated, these cars really attract the rust and I didn't fancy all those cable bolts unless I really have to as I am working with axle stands on my drive. Anyway I really enjoyed the videos, very informative, i will check in for some more very soon. the best of health to you, Keith.👍
There is a knack to fitting the shoes, I've done so many now that I find them easy and probably make it look easy too. Put the epb into service mode and provided the actuator isn't stuck then it should give you more cable. I showed how to do it one of the videos, I forgot which one. All the best, cheers for watching.
Thanks for your info it helped me out
You’re a top banana really help me out. Thanks!!!
My discovery 3 hand brake not work in anyway after changed the gear and cable. I find out why. The new cable not come with a lock as you showed on video. All the time the cable loosing because was travelling to far. Than You showed on this video. Safe lot time. Thank You for a great video.
Your video have inspired me to buy a range rover. 😎 previous owner suspects it needs an engine rebuild.. but for 1400 quid can't go wrong, if I can't fix it, there's profit in selling it for parts. 😁 lovely cars though I am hopeful I can repair it.
Well done Steve - that’s twice you’ve put them springs on easy - when it took me 2hrs 😩
There is a knack to it but it did fight me this time around.
Hi Steve, well done with sticking with it✊🇬🇧
I have just carried a replacement of the Hand brake shoes etc on my 2005 Disco! what a proper pain the arse project! Got there in the end! Swore much more than you and got the proper miseries a few times!🤬🤣
Anyway just picked up on your channel love your approach keep up the good work and stay safe
All the best Martin.👍✊🍻
Cheers for stopping by Martin. Those shoes can be a proper pain in the arse. I've done so many now that I suppose there is a knack to it.
@@pistonbroke Cheers Steve👍
Thank you so much I had a Range Rover sport 2012 and it had the same problem and I whatches this VIDOE and it had a flat battery to
in all fairness huge well done on doing it. but because you re-used the old brake shoes that epb module was winding in ALOT.
It's not because I reused the shoes. It's because I set the cables in the service mode position.
Sweet my brother 👌👌👌👌
Cheers Mick.
Great 3 part video Steve, i have watched the process a few times now and i have come to the conclusion i won't be replacing or fixing mine which seized on me last weekend. My local garage will get the hassle and headache. Just out of curiosity how much would you have charged for this job on a 2013 l320 ? fitting new genuine LR actuator and shoes ?
Labour wise you'd be looking at about £250 as long as all the bolts come out. I don't know how much the parts are.
Steve, great video as usual and I have watched it several times now and repaired my EPB following your guide, thanks mate. The one mistake we made was not getting pictures of the cable routing when we removed them, as you mentioned to your mate in the vid dont worry I know how the cables route for refitting but you didnt show any close up shots when you refitted. The first bit is easy because of the p clip positions but when you brought the cables over and down and the routed them back up it wasnt obvious of the next bit of the route. Do they then go through the largish holes each side then route out to each axle and the large wire retainers ?? Would appreciate some feedback as doing on the drive is a bit harder and daunting! Cheers again for all the effort you put in especially the snoring dog, love it!
This is going to be hard to explain! Once you've got the P clips in the sort of right place, the cables go up and over the chassis and back on themselves, on the nearside it goes up and over just behind the suspension compressor, they clip into a bracket on the chassis and there is a rubber grommet on the cables which go into the clip. It's quite a fiddle to get the grommet into the clip. After that they go into the backplate and hook behind the wire hook on the lower wishbones.
@@pistonbroke Thank you so much for the quick response, I will dive under later and see if that makes sense once looking at it in situ. Keep up the good work, thanks again.
How much do you charge to do something like that? Mine needs doing too
Hi, I’ve just replaced my handbrake cables and the cables that I removed didn’t have a sir clip on either side? My sport is a 2012 model. Would this year have the clips as I’ve replaced everything without a sir clip.
You need to swap the circlips from the old cables or buy new ones. Don't leave them off otherwise the actuator will over travel and jam.
Any advice for mine? The actuator sounds normal and I can hear it wind in and out when I pull or push the button. No errors on the dash, but one rear wheel is jammed on and the other side works normally. I need to release one side but I dont want to pull the release under the centre console because I dont think the problem is the actuator.
Could be a couple of reasons. I've seen the linings come off the handbrake shoes causing it to bind on one side, seized cable(s), seized levers or over adjusted. You need to get the disc off and have a look.
Hi great video, I feel your pain.. I had the same problem, with the handbrake cable rubber that had split and caused the cable to seize, also got a cog kit and replaced the cog inside the epb that had come loose due to the cable being seized.
It's been working perfect for 8 months, but now I get the flashing red and yellow warning on the dash, but if I cycle the ignition a few times it dissapears and the handbrake will operate correctly one time only, then I get the flashing symbols again. The epb releases normally when I drive away aswell.
Do you know what could be the problem please. Great video it's such a pig of a job.
You'll need to read the fault codes. I wont have a clue unless there's a fault code to go on.
@@pistonbroke Hi thanks for your reply it's U2002 switch general electrical? I've taken the switch itself out and replaced it, but having the same issue? Thanks for your response.
Sorry, didn't see your reply till now. Could be a switch fault but I've seen this code when the switch is pulled up too slowly. Stupid I know but if you pull the switch up at a certain speed, it will generate this DTC. More than likely a switch fault though but check wiring first
Where do you get the circlips for the cables, or did they come with them?
No it doesn't come with them so you either have to swap them over or buy new ones.
hi, did you need to put that in service mode before you did it
I manually put it in service mode when I fitted the cables. Watch the episode prior to this one.
Was that a new being put in or just the plastic gears
Changed the gears and cables. There's a 5 part series on this.
Correct me if I am wrong but was this fault as a result of not adjusting the brake cable or were the cables stretched?
Shoes were way out of adjustment and the cables were seized.
@@pistonbroke Thanks for your reply, much appreciated. I have watched so many of your videos. I have a 2016 discovery.
We did all new but when starting again same epb fault we deleted it but comes back,battery is ok
What fault code do you have?
HI BUDDY HOW DID YOU REFIT THE MODULE COVER AS YOU HADE TO GRIND OFF THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING IT IN PLACE CHEERS WE HAVE TO REPLACE OURS AND THE NUTS ARE SHAGGED WOULD APPRECIATE YOU REPLY CHEERS LOUIS
Can't really remember. This was over 2 years ago. I think I chiselled the nuts off and welded new ones on
@pistonbroke cheers I think its the only option of course we could get a stick of dynamite and blow the fuckin load of crap up 😆
I've done my timing belt, but that fuel pump belt looks a proper b$#@&d to change, I'll be seeing how you approach it.
It's actually easier than it looks. I wont be doing this one now, car has been taken away. When I get one to do, I'll post a video.
Would you really need to remove the actuator from the body just to replace the cables ?
No, I spent 5 hours grinding all the bolt heads off for fun.
@@pistonbroke I was just watching your video which is well presented I must admit , I was just thinking surely there is enough room to take the cover off , disconnect the cables and replace with new ones
No mate, there isn't. On a good day with no rust you could have the actuator out in an hour.
Wouldn’t it be better to have a Brick marked Handbrake? Gpx
would i.need to get a new modul programed or is it plug snd play . lr4 2013. ive changed the gears and all the breaking system
.put it bavk together its saying handbreak latching failure ? any idea why that woukd be ?
Did you latch it when you put it back together? You'll need to calibrate the accelerometer on a new module.
@Piston Broke Garage sorry latch it ? i just but it back togther one side turned it five times. and the other side put it on the clip part..reconnect the part that was aprt for the emergency release.
@Piston Broke Garage how do i calibrated the accelerometer ?
Ok so if you clipped the two cables together on the emergency release bit then it's latched. Possibly a fault on the part with the ribbon cable, that's the bit that tells it whether it's latched or not. Can you hear it trying to work when you pull the switch?
@Piston Broke Garage yes you can her in whiinning sound like it was before i did it .
Please tell me know if you have a vacancy!
No