This is one of the best hobby investments I've made. Being able to dry things quickly and know that they're cured cuts down tremendously on mistakes. Thank you!
Brother this might just be THE BEST tip yet! You cut my chrome curing time down from 10 days to 12 hours. I know the chrome was fully cured because the sealer did'nt ruin the reflection. You are THE MAN! Thank you again.
I found a couple of high quality round units at a thrift store for $7 each. You can cut the centers out of a few of the rings to make spacers so you can fit bodies in it. I like them because they blow the heat from the top and evenly down the sides. Thanks for the video.
I just ordered one ! thank you so mutch! I was trying to dry the paint with a hair dryer. its so simple but elegant! and only for 36 euros!(just see gunze dryer price). its a must for car modellers.
Thanks for all your great work. I bought the unit you used and really like it. I figured that the best way to see if 158.5 degrees would harm plastic was to put something in it and give it a go. I put a piece of sprue horizontally stuck on an alligator clip so that if it would soften it would droop. I also had a plastic spoon that I had painted in there as well. 4 hours later and there was no negative results. The sprue seems a bit more malleable, but not enough that it drooped. Also not enough that I can use it to bend a piece of plastic which would have been handy. The spoon with the paint didn't have any problem either. It makes sense since they are sold to use to eat soup and that would be between 180 & 190 degrees. Just to be clear I don't use the dehydrator at that temperature, I just wanted to see what would happen. I do wish the unit would remember the last setting so I didn't have to set it each time. One change I made to the unit is that I put two racks in the bottom and then bolted them together. I use skewers for a lot of small parts and I stick them into the diamonds between the two racks so that they are upright. I found that without the bolts the upper rack tended to slide forward and wedge the door. With the bolts on the shelves they don't move forward.
Love your channel , after watching your review I went out and bought the same one! Love the larger size, anything fits inside! Used it as described to dry paint. also used it to dry plastic parts after washing them, dry glue after assembling and warming up paint and plastic parts when the weather is cold before painting. Almost never gets turned off!! great unit thanks for the tip!
Hi Robert. - An absolute stroke of luck for us. - The Wife reminded me we only already had one of these from a few years back (same model - but Gormia branding), she used it a few times for fruit before it was packed away and placed in the garage! As of today, it's now MINE! Yay! Getting so cold already...Paint & spray can primers are taking a long time to dry! Great video! Trying it on some of our 'still-tacky' primed art toys now! - Cheers, Neighbor! (We're in Mass) :)
I know this is an older video, but I want to contribute that I bought this device, same manufacturer but one size smaller, and it works great. Using this along with disciplining myself to be more patient between coats (paint or clear) has given me much better outcomes than I was seeing before.
Really good idea. I have the same dehydrator, and never thought about drying paint in it. I use it for drying 3d print filament, so now it has a second use. :)
I have been using one for 2mo. Now., mine works great. It work really good for little parts,.. be careful with the lacquer,and acrylic, if they dry to fast the paint will crack,or check ,what ever you call it. ,,, work great for enamel. It make airbrushing a lot easier, I love it!
Nice to see a video about this. As a tip they're also great for warming up spray paint cans prior to use. Not sure where you heard about the "wait 20 minutes" thing. Definitely not saying you're wrong but I've dried a dozen painted bodies (glossy, flat and clear-coated) by putting them in immediately and never had a problem.
You're right as I tested out putting in a piece I just clear coated in it and it came out fine. A friend who used one for years recommended I do that so I followed his lead. He said the clears will sometime yellow if he throws them right in
Bo I know this is legit because Testors red enamel in the quarter ounce bottle NEVER dries lol. The fact that you got that junk to cure in a few hours is nothing short of amazing. Well done!
Living in Arizona ... April through early June, I paint in the morning, put outside in full sun, and all paint is fully cured by the dinner time. Same painting schedule from mid September through part of December. Mid June through to mid September ... I paint in the morning and by 2:00p the paint is fully cured. So living in Phoenix, the only time I have problems curing paint is during those times if we get any rain (rare) and late December through March. That is when I usually paint outside (no need for a booth), then take inside to cure, time not being a problem, as I plan in advance the paint for several cars, so I paint three or four at a time, and always have a painted car to work on while other paint is curing. Though .... I have a tray styled dehydrator, and may cut the platform out of one tray, for back up drying during those 3 off months.
What a game changer! Have a box full of model master enamels that I would use if I had this. Thanks again. My first was a testors A320 back when they were cheap.
You can use the circular dehydrator as well. I have one that I've been using for over 10 years. I simply cut the trays away from the circular walls. You can then either stack and glue the wall sections together or use duct tape to join them. I have an old Nesco unit with variable temperature control. For those on a budget, you may try your local thrift store.
You can take a small pair of wire cutters and cut out the mesh bottoms of the dividers in the round dehydrators, that leaves them as spacers to give you more head room. I did that to fit 3D printer spools inside so I could dry them off.
I just found your channel a couple of days ago and have already watched half of your videos. You are without a doubt the best plastic modeling UA-camr I have found and am subscribed. You're very easy to listen to and follow and I never get bored.. plus you have so many useful tips and tricks that I've never heard of before. Just curious what body paint and clear you recommend the most for car modelers ( I only build race cars) to get the easiest and best results? Thanks!
Wow, thank you for the kind words. I do prefer lacquers when it comes to auto kits. I like Splash Paints as they are true auto colors. They're not cheap at $7.99 a jar but for a car kit I love I find that price reasonable. They do require a clear coat as they go on flat like real car paints. But the end results Is always perfect. Another cheaper choice is Testors enamels. They go one easy and usually don't need a clear coat. As far as spray cans you can't beat Tamiya, they are the best. I'll be testing the Tamiya Opaque Colors Spray cans very soon too for the channel. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have a further questions.
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks for the reply... I'm going to check out your Splash paints video(s) next. I'm assuming you'd use their 2K clear over them? I've always been worried about how toxic the 2K is as well as the Urethane's if that is what the color paint is. I have a buddy in the body/paint industry that can mix up 2 oz of high quality urethane color and 2K for $14 if I decide to go that way. I was really hoping to find a safer paint and clear to spray since I spray in my house like you do. I had a Aztek booth like yours but it couldn't keep up. Now I have a Pace Mini Plus that I haven't tried yet. If it can't keep up then I'll have to try that new one you just got. It looks awesome.
Looking forward to the createx review! I tried wicked for the first time last week and was happy with the results. Their autoborne line not so much. Found it didn’t do a great job adhering to the plastic and it lifted when removing washi tape. I’ll try again with the 4030 balancing clear mixed in. Thanks for doing these videos!
So far my early Wicked test behind the scenes is going well. I'm liking the results. Trying a variety of types, their pearl, detail and regular opaque paints.
Have you thought about doing Q&A live stream? I have a autistic son And the Gundam and Gunpla universe is my gateway to him.. do you IG or Facebook? Sorry I so my questions .
I have used one for many years and they work great ! One word of warning though, don't put masked models in the dehydrator, more times than not, you will have a sticky mess under your tape that is difficult to get rid of.
@@oldhick9047 so far I've only used it just colored painted plastic, mostly my car models painted with real auto paint. Works great for that as the paint was made to be lightly "Baked"
@@barbatosrex9473 I build a lot of resin 1/24-25 scale slot car bodies for our club members. (modeling has been a passion for over 55 years) It helps the resin cure. I use an automotive paint meant for plastic bumpers for the flexing qualities. The dehydrator dries that instantly.
If a car body has some Tamiya White Putty and is painted in lacquer will the putty be affected by the dehydrator. I use light amounts of the putty to fill in low areas.
Seems also great for curing Epoxyresin pieces. Epoxy cured at about 60 degr C has a different webbing much stronger than at ambient temps. At ambient temps it cures 2 dimensional, at elevated te,p it cures 3 dimensional , lacking layering Thx for the introduction.
HOLY CRAP, that old A2708 was my very first airbrush. I dug it out recently hoping to use it as a a spare but couldn't figure out what adapter to use since it has a weird size. Looking forward to your video on it.
Hey REX and for repaing the favor its something small but good , so it goes , when you want to spray gloss varnish without dust catcing the model all over first you wipe it with tamiya antistatic brush and second wipeing it with a wax cloth from auto body piants store , these 2 work great! and 3 then you put it in the dehydrator.
I have a tack cloth and I just got a Tamiya Anti Static brushast week 👍. I'll be painting a car model with real auto paint soon so I'll be using them in that test
Once again you solve a problem for impatient modelers. I have a dehydrator I use to control the moisture in my filament for 3D printing. Now it will serve double duty with my models. Never consider it till today Thanks
I have been painting with enamels but mix in any generic hardener - often a high-gloss hardener. After about 15 -20 minutes, the paint automatically hardens whether or not I've sprayed it all out. Spray can enamel I just leave out in the sunlight. I think the IR light also helps the cure. Testors enamel are terrible. Stingy with the volume in square containers made of glass that harden in the bottle more often than hardening on your model.
If you mix the little Testors bottles with cheap lacquer thinner the results are fantastic! I mix them 1:1 and they dry a lot faster as well due to the addition of the lacquer thinner.
What about flat or semi flat sprayed or brushed part. Can these finished be put into the dehydrator for the same affect with the drying/ curing process ? Should or could a “ primer ” base , say model car body or any primed part previously sprayed be processed through the dehydrator before a final coat of color, is it recommended that a final coat over a primed already dehydrated finish be put through the dehydration process ?
Good evening, Rex. What is the maximum temperature for airbrushed acrylic paint on a model in a dehydrator? I just picked one up at a thrift store and it doesn’t have any controls. The temperature seems to be about 159F. I have not used it yet and don’t want to melt any parts.
Recently at Yodobashi Camera in Japan, theyve been selling countertop dishwasher/dryers for model kits! Similar idea. I’m thinking a dehydrator is better though.
This might sound like a dumb question but here it goes lol. You said to set at 120 degrees, is that Fahrenheit or Celsius? Living in Canada and it’s always a mix up of which one to use. Thanks
I only use enamles for small details and touch ups over acrylics or laquors and usually those spots are handelabke within a few hours. Is their working dry time really that long?
Dehydration question: I have a few automotive body kits and small parts brushed with acrylic and enamel that I have hit with paint like some over 3-4 months some a year and a few over a year since paint. Can you or does it have any effect on these bodies that have been sprayed or brushed smaller parts in both acrylic and like Testors enamel …. To put these already sprayed ( much time ago) or brushed items into the dehydrator to continue or complete the cure process ? Will putting previously already sprayed ( say within 6 months) into the dehydration process help the curing ? Or should I just let previously painted items just “ time out” and cure naturally ?
Those parts are most likely fully cured. That said it won't damage them by putting them in the unit. Now if you live in a humid area then putting them I the dehydrator will help complete the process
I bought the 6 tray Ivation Food Dehydrator. I put in parts painted with clear 1K urethane and also parts painted with clear lacquer for 10 hours at 113 degrees and it didn't cure the paint. I'm going to return it and go back to letting time cure the paint.
Nice dehydrator. I have a 16” round one by Presto that I use for enamels. I run mine at 95 degrees for 24 hours for enamels. Nice red paint. I’ve never sprayed the small bottles of Testors before. That came out great. Thanks for sharing. I do like your front load dehydrator.
@@barbatosrex9473 That’s cool. I’ve got 100 bottles of them. Been using them for 50 years! Never airbrushed them once😁 since I’ve been watching your channel I’ve been venturing out and using a lot of different paints on every build. I shoot everything over duplicolor paint shop primer I get by the qt from Amazon. Keep up the good work. Ps. I just got some mr. hobby super metallics 2 in. House of hobbies only had 4 of them. I got the regular super metallics gold, brass, copper, burnt iron. The super metallic gold is absolutely amazing.
I decant the Krylon/Rustoleum rattle cans from Wally World. Is the curing time the same as the Testors? Thanks for giving a time table for the dehydrator.
The cure time is about the same as Testors. I good rule of thumb is to go longer and slightly less heat. Like just over 100 degrees and run it a little longer than usual. This would give you perfect results every time
Hey Rex, I dont want to bug you but i have a question about these dehydrators. I just bought the same exact one you own. My question is, the louvered round vent on top. Think it would be a good idea to put some kind of air filter over the hole so it doesn't draw in dust particles ? It looks like this could be a issue. Obviously, I'm not talking about something thats dense enough to restrict air flow through exhaust fan. Maybe cheese clothe ? Thanks. I cannot wait to try my new toy ! Lol
I need help I want to paint in the basement the models but my basement windows will not open. How do I pipe out paint fumes out of the basement if the windows will not open? I will make my own paint booth or make one out of a big plastic tote and a bathroom fan taped to it. Another question should I build my own spay booth for painting plastic models or buy one? Another question how do I make pigments stick to the place I apply them on my models the powder pigments I am using the mig branded ones
I have the one that micro mark sells. $160 ish bucks, worth every money. Also the heat can cause the body to warp leaving it on the tamiya stand with the metal springs. So be careful with that.
I've been going with 130 degrees for 20 minutes lately but it depends on your situation. Low and slow works well too, 100 for a couple of hours but I've been impatient and found that 130 for shorter times work well
I don't. I've was shown this technique years ago in the smaller sized dehydrators but when I saw this one I had to have it. I use it every day and it's one of my favorite items in my workshop. With closed spaces I've always feared putting heat lamps and fans together but that's just me.
Ok so I have been trying this out for about a month now. For some reason I’m not getting any different results then I would if I just let my pieces air dry. Except the paint seem to come detached from the plastic on the ones I put in the Dehydrator. I don’t know if the primer is melting or something. So I’m using acrylics and I used a few different primers ( Testers fine, army painters and the worst was Mission Models paints and primer. That stuff just flacked off primer and all like old lead paint. So I’m wondering what I might be doing wrong. When I spray I thin with water if I need to or Createx 4011 I think it is or Vallejo thinner. Then I let air dry like you said for 20 min sometimes a shorter time depending I’ll admit. Then into the Dehydrator. Now I have looked up other people using a dehydrator and there times a temps and I know on here you said the temp was about 120 or so but some say 140 150. So I tried all of them. All for 5 hours. And I get the same thing. Rather paint just falls off the model or it just ends up just like if I air dried it. Can you give me any ideas
I'd stick with 120 to 130 degrees. Try putting the pieces in right after you paint it. I've been having good luck with putting them in right after I paint it too. Then in about a half hour take it out and see what your results are
I really enjoy watching your videos, I have been painting for around 25 years and im learning new things from your experience. Question, how long should I keep fullsize football helments in dehydrator and what temp. Thank you so much
You put it at 122 F.? I don't understand, at 135 F my plastic Dodge chalenger melted after few minutes. ????????? The one I used is included on my mini oven. I was surprise to see that, and we can even see two scale model rim with tires on the button.
Here is one for everyone! If you can’t afford a dehydrator like the one on the video, then get a Ronco dehydrator model number FD1005WHGEN. It’s under $40.00 on Amazon. I fit pickup truck and cars in it due to its dome type lid. I use only Testor Paint which take 3 weeks to be completely dry and cure. On top of the the lid are number settings, I put it on number 4. Heat ranges from 140 - 150 degrees. I found that at that temperature range I can keep in the dehydrator for 108 hours, equaling to 4 days 12 hours. My car’s and trucks paint jobs comes out completely dry, and completely cured.
I noticed the car body seemed warped. Was that from using the dehydrator or was it warped before? I’ve known people to use dehydrators but I don’t. Now seeing that the body was warped makes me more reluctant to purchase one.
It wa warped out of the box, it's an awful kit. Once I got it I knew I was just going to use the body for a test. It won't Warp your kits. Just set the heat to just over 100 and you shouldn't have a problem. Also you could also place the car body on a jar. Plus you can set the heat lower and run it longer for the same results.
I had to convert to celsius. I was confused at the beginning because of that. I read on Amazon that this device goes from 35 to 75 celsius degree. Do you know if it can be dangerous for plastic at maximum values? I don't know at which temperature plastic starts to melt.
Every one, hold on a moment............... Food dehydrators are great YES, BUT do not exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit. If you intend to speed dry a plastic car over that 104 degrees you may end up with a sagging model. Did you ever try to dry a plastic model in your mothers stove at the lowest setting, good luck, and if she caught you !!!! The food dehydrator I have has no setting, plug and go, I tested it when I got home from the thrift store 104 degrees, good. Spent $8.00. It was the round kind with stacking rings, measures 11 inches in diameter and can get 2 car bodies inside. Got out the motor tool and hollowed the rings except the bottom. That dehydrator you have has variable heat, great for banana chips, so please be careful with your plastic, cheers.
I actually use them all. See my video on my paint racks. For this one I sprayed Testors enamels, Tamiya Spray Can, Vallejo clear and Wicked Colors. But I own just about every paint on the market
So I tried this put it on 115 and left it in for 5 hours. Used Tamiya paints but yet it was still tacky when It was done. Can you tell me why that might have happened
Wow, something is wrong for sure. I put my Tamiya paints in it the other day for 20 minutes and they were fully cured. I need more info, how did you thin your paint? What did you use and what ratio? How many layers did you spray?
@@barbatosrex9473 I used Tamiya flat black spray. I let it dry for 2 hours and then put it in for 5 hours at 115. I didn’t need to thin it with anything. But normally I just thin my Tamiya with water before use. But as soon as it was done I let it cool for a day and it was still tacky. On top of that I can rub it right off with my finger
@@danzo5521 I don’t know what was going on. I tried different paint and different plastic. Sometimes it worked sometimes not. All I know is the only consistent drying I ever have is just letting it sit and air dry
@@danzo5521 but I did find a solution for painting any paint. From enamel to Lacquer to acrylic. And it doesn’t matter what plastic the kit is made of. I found if you use “purple primer” it’s a PVC plumbing primer. If you put it down like you would a regular primer that will let you use any paint on anything. From hard plastics to flexible and it will stick and not stay tacky. It’s purple so you need to use it with dark colors. Or what I do is mix it with black paint or ink and you then have a black primer. I think they make a clear version of the product as well so there is that
you only have to wait for paint to cure if you miss a window , if you spray as soo nas it flashes but doesnt cure you can actually spray primer , color and gloss and you will get great results. If yo uwait too long you risk getting chemical reactions
It’s not bad as long as you don’t go to far with it. Meaning to many coats. Also I’ve found that before you 2K clear coat it if you use their uvls 4050 clear before applying 2K you get a better finished result.
@@FuelsModels Thanks for the tip! They state that this chrome effect is more durable than others, I’ve tried the spaz stix chrome but this one you can hardly touch at all... im guessing quicksilver is not as “shiny” as spaz stix but how durable is quicksilver without a clear compared to others and does it loose much shine with clearing it as you described?
@@GroggyGreg shine is pretty good as long as you don’t put a 2K clear right on top of it and don’t go to many coats. Like I said if you use the Createx 4050 uvls clear which is really good stuff you can put a 2K on that and even that’s not needed after using the 4050. Just gotta be careful of not going with to many coats.
@@FuelsModels Yeah, that looks really nice! I got to order that box set and some 4050 :) thank you! Did you get ever get to testing the candy as window tint?
That’s one reason I’m watching this video, I’m about to get my first model ready to paint, but I’m afraid dust will fall into the paint, what do you do with the Tupperware?
It should dry fine only need to leave it on for 10 or 20 minutes to let it set up a little bit anything after that it should be hard enough to any dust to collect on it can be wiped off later
I believe at the beginning of this video you said that you were not happy with that Mustang model I am a big Ford person any chance of you sending me that model
This is one of the best hobby investments I've made. Being able to dry things quickly and know that they're cured cuts down tremendously on mistakes. Thank you!
Brother this might just be THE BEST tip yet! You cut my chrome curing time down from 10 days to 12 hours. I know the chrome was fully cured because the sealer did'nt ruin the reflection. You are THE MAN! Thank you again.
Again a very use- and helpful video. I'll try when my wife is not at home. 😉
I found a couple of high quality round units at a thrift store for $7 each. You can cut the centers out of a few of the rings to make spacers so you can fit bodies in it. I like them because they blow the heat from the top and evenly down the sides. Thanks for the video.
I just ordered one ! thank you so mutch! I was trying to dry the paint with a hair dryer. its so simple but elegant! and only for 36 euros!(just see gunze dryer price). its a must for car modellers.
Your channel needs more subs! 💯💯💯
Thanks for all your great work. I bought the unit you used and really like it. I figured that the best way to see if 158.5 degrees would harm plastic was to put something in it and give it a go. I put a piece of sprue horizontally stuck on an alligator clip so that if it would soften it would droop. I also had a plastic spoon that I had painted in there as well. 4 hours later and there was no negative results. The sprue seems a bit more malleable, but not enough that it drooped. Also not enough that I can use it to bend a piece of plastic which would have been handy. The spoon with the paint didn't have any problem either. It makes sense since they are sold to use to eat soup and that would be between 180 & 190 degrees. Just to be clear I don't use the dehydrator at that temperature, I just wanted to see what would happen. I do wish the unit would remember the last setting so I didn't have to set it each time.
One change I made to the unit is that I put two racks in the bottom and then bolted them together. I use skewers for a lot of small parts and I stick them into the diamonds between the two racks so that they are upright. I found that without the bolts the upper rack tended to slide forward and wedge the door. With the bolts on the shelves they don't move forward.
Love your channel , after watching your review I went out and bought the same one! Love the larger size, anything fits inside!
Used it as described to dry paint. also used it to dry plastic parts after washing them, dry glue after assembling and warming up paint and plastic parts when the weather is cold before painting. Almost never gets turned off!! great unit thanks for the tip!
Your welcome buddy, how awesome is that dehydrator. I couldn't go without it now
Got one . Love it.
Hi Robert. - An absolute stroke of luck for us. - The Wife reminded me we only already had one of these from a few years back (same model - but Gormia branding), she used it a few times for fruit before it was packed away and placed in the garage! As of today, it's now MINE! Yay! Getting so cold already...Paint & spray can primers are taking a long time to dry! Great video! Trying it on some of our 'still-tacky' primed art toys now! - Cheers, Neighbor! (We're in Mass) :)
I know this is an older video, but I want to contribute that I bought this device, same manufacturer but one size smaller, and it works great. Using this along with disciplining myself to be more patient between coats (paint or clear) has given me much better outcomes than I was seeing before.
Really good idea. I have the same dehydrator, and never thought about drying paint in it. I use it for drying 3d print filament, so now it has a second use. :)
You’re going to make me buy a dehydrator now, aren’t you? LOL! Great video!
This thing is awesome. I'm glad I bought the larger model. I've used it 4 times since this video
Excellent video...what would of been interesting is having an air dry comparison piece allowing the same time as the dehydrator
I have been using one for 2mo. Now., mine works great. It work really good for little parts,.. be careful with the lacquer,and acrylic, if they dry to fast the paint will crack,or check ,what ever you call it. ,,, work great for enamel. It make airbrushing a lot easier, I love it!
It really is a great piece of equipment
Nice to see a video about this. As a tip they're also great for warming up spray paint cans prior to use. Not sure where you heard about the "wait 20 minutes" thing. Definitely not saying you're wrong but I've dried a dozen painted bodies (glossy, flat and clear-coated) by putting them in immediately and never had a problem.
You're right as I tested out putting in a piece I just clear coated in it and it came out fine. A friend who used one for years recommended I do that so I followed his lead. He said the clears will sometime yellow if he throws them right in
@@barbatosrex9473 Ah ok fair enough. I've only ever use Tamiya spray clear lacquer so with other paints it may very well be a vital step.
@@barbatosrex9473 you are right with some paints it might get yellowish a bit if you put it immediately
Bo I know this is legit because Testors red enamel in the quarter ounce bottle NEVER dries lol. The fact that you got that junk to cure in a few hours is nothing short of amazing. Well done!
Living in Arizona ... April through early June, I paint in the morning, put outside in full sun, and all paint is fully cured by the dinner time. Same painting schedule from mid September through part of December. Mid June through to mid September ... I paint in the morning and by 2:00p the paint is fully cured. So living in Phoenix, the only time I have problems curing paint is during those times if we get any rain (rare) and late December through March. That is when I usually paint outside (no need for a booth), then take inside to cure, time not being a problem, as I plan in advance the paint for several cars, so I paint three or four at a time, and always have a painted car to work on while other paint is curing. Though .... I have a tray styled dehydrator, and may cut the platform out of one tray, for back up drying during those 3 off months.
model building and snack making, great combination!
Now my Gundam smells like beef jerky and my jerky tastes like enamel thinner! 🤯😆
What a game changer! Have a box full of model master enamels that I would use if I had this.
Thanks again.
My first was a testors A320 back when they were cheap.
I'm definitely impressed. I'll try one out down the road.
I found out yrs ago Deydrators r life Savers. God Bless All.
You can use the circular dehydrator as well. I have one that I've been using for over 10 years. I simply cut the trays away from the circular walls. You can then either stack and glue the wall sections together or use duct tape to join them. I have an old Nesco unit with variable temperature control. For those on a budget, you may try your local thrift store.
I know this is old but might you have a picture as an example?
I bought this dehydrator your recommendation...I Loooove it!!
It's a great piece of equipment, I use mine every day
You can take a small pair of wire cutters and cut out the mesh bottoms of the dividers in the round dehydrators, that leaves them as spacers to give you more head room. I did that to fit 3D printer spools inside so I could dry them off.
WE MUST SEE MORE OF THIS MODEL PAINTING IDEAS!
I just found your channel a couple of days ago and have already watched half of your videos. You are without a doubt the best plastic modeling UA-camr I have found and am subscribed. You're very easy to listen to and follow and I never get bored.. plus you have so many useful tips and tricks that I've never heard of before. Just curious what body paint and clear you recommend the most for car modelers ( I only build race cars) to get the easiest and best results? Thanks!
Wow, thank you for the kind words. I do prefer lacquers when it comes to auto kits. I like Splash Paints as they are true auto colors. They're not cheap at $7.99 a jar but for a car kit I love I find that price reasonable. They do require a clear coat as they go on flat like real car paints. But the end results Is always perfect. Another cheaper choice is Testors enamels. They go one easy and usually don't need a clear coat. As far as spray cans you can't beat Tamiya, they are the best. I'll be testing the Tamiya Opaque Colors Spray cans very soon too for the channel. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have a further questions.
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks for the reply... I'm going to check out your Splash paints video(s) next. I'm assuming you'd use their 2K clear over them? I've always been worried about how toxic the 2K is as well as the Urethane's if that is what the color paint is. I have a buddy in the body/paint industry that can mix up 2 oz of high quality urethane color and 2K for $14 if I decide to go that way. I was really hoping to find a safer paint and clear to spray since I spray in my house like you do. I had a Aztek booth like yours but it couldn't keep up. Now I have a Pace Mini Plus that I haven't tried yet. If it can't keep up then I'll have to try that new one you just got. It looks awesome.
Looking forward to the createx review! I tried wicked for the first time last week and was happy with the results. Their autoborne line not so much. Found it didn’t do a great job adhering to the plastic and it lifted when removing washi tape. I’ll try again with the 4030 balancing clear mixed in. Thanks for doing these videos!
So far my early Wicked test behind the scenes is going well. I'm liking the results. Trying a variety of types, their pearl, detail and regular opaque paints.
Nice video.... Several guys use them for the 24 hr build challenge that is coming up this weekend.
Looking for a dehydrator now.. tools and more tools.. Thanks again
Love tools and supplies. It's the thrill of the chase 😉
Have you thought about doing Q&A live stream? I have a autistic son And the Gundam and Gunpla universe is my gateway to him.. do you IG or Facebook? Sorry I so my questions .
I have used one for many years and they work great ! One word of warning though, don't put masked models in the dehydrator, more times than not, you will have a sticky mess under your tape that is difficult to get rid of.
This is true, the the tape adhesive melts.
@@barbatosrex9473 "Glass" parts seem to be the worst .
@@oldhick9047 so far I've only used it just colored painted plastic, mostly my car models painted with real auto paint. Works great for that as the paint was made to be lightly "Baked"
@@barbatosrex9473 I build a lot of resin 1/24-25 scale slot car bodies for our club members. (modeling has been a passion for over 55 years) It helps the resin cure. I use an automotive paint meant for plastic bumpers for the flexing qualities. The dehydrator dries that instantly.
I have used Tamiya tape and had it in the dehydrator with very good outcomes.
If a car body has some Tamiya White Putty and is painted in lacquer will the putty be affected by the dehydrator. I use light amounts of the putty to fill in low areas.
Seems also great for curing Epoxyresin pieces. Epoxy cured at about 60 degr C has a different webbing much stronger than at ambient temps. At ambient temps it cures 2 dimensional, at elevated te,p it cures 3 dimensional , lacking layering Thx for the introduction.
HOLY CRAP, that old A2708 was my very first airbrush. I dug it out recently hoping to use it as a a spare but couldn't figure out what adapter to use since it has a weird size. Looking forward to your video on it.
Excellent video. Just what I needed to see. Thanks!
Good tip. Good investment. Thanks
Thanks for sharing. I use the round ones. This one is way better
I love this, I use it every day 👍
Hey REX and for repaing the favor its something small but good , so it goes , when you want to spray gloss varnish without dust catcing the model all over first you wipe it with tamiya antistatic brush and second wipeing it with a wax cloth from auto body piants store , these 2 work great! and 3 then you put it in the dehydrator.
I have a tack cloth and I just got a Tamiya Anti Static brushast week 👍. I'll be painting a car model with real auto paint soon so I'll be using them in that test
Once again you solve a problem for impatient modelers. I have a dehydrator I use to control the moisture in my filament for 3D printing. Now it will serve double duty with my models. Never consider it till today Thanks
Do you always use this type of airbrush for the cars?
Love your painting demos!
Can you do one on the Createx candy 2o and pearl colors?
Thanks for all you do for the modeling community.
I plan on testing just about everything. Wicked Colors will be first among the Createx line up
@@barbatosrex9473
Great thanks!
have you done a video showing this with gundam parts?
I have been painting with enamels but mix in any generic hardener - often a high-gloss hardener. After about 15 -20 minutes, the paint automatically hardens whether or not I've sprayed it all out. Spray can enamel I just leave out in the sunlight. I think the IR light also helps the cure. Testors enamel are terrible. Stingy with the volume in square containers made of glass that harden in the bottle more often than hardening on your model.
If you mix the little Testors bottles with cheap lacquer thinner the results are fantastic! I mix them 1:1 and they dry a lot faster as well due to the addition of the lacquer thinner.
I'm thinking about getting 1 now.
What about flat or semi flat sprayed or brushed part. Can these finished be put into the dehydrator for the same affect with the drying/ curing process ?
Should or could a “ primer ” base , say model car body or any primed part previously sprayed be processed through the dehydrator before a final coat of color,
is it recommended that a final coat over a primed already dehydrated finish be put through the dehydration process ?
Brilliant
What is the temperature/timer setting you recommend for lacquer paints on resin kits?
Between 100 and 120
Good evening, Rex. What is the maximum temperature for airbrushed acrylic paint on a model in a dehydrator? I just picked one up at a thrift store and it doesn’t have any controls. The temperature seems to be about 159F. I have not used it yet and don’t want to melt any parts.
115 degrees is about just right. No need to go over 120
Great idea, my wife is going to get mad at me for al, the modeling tools I've been purchasing lately 🙃 🙄
Recently at Yodobashi Camera in Japan, theyve been selling countertop dishwasher/dryers for model kits! Similar idea. I’m thinking a dehydrator is better though.
This might sound like a dumb question but here it goes lol. You said to set at 120 degrees, is that Fahrenheit or Celsius? Living in Canada and it’s always a mix up of which one to use. Thanks
I only use enamles for small details and touch ups over acrylics or laquors and usually those spots are handelabke within a few hours. Is their working dry time really that long?
With enamels especially, they don't fully cure for a couple days when spraying larger areas like car bodies
Dehydration question: I have a few automotive body kits and small parts brushed with acrylic and enamel that I have hit with paint like some over 3-4 months some a year and a few over a year since paint.
Can you or does it have any effect on these bodies that have been sprayed or brushed smaller parts in both acrylic and like Testors enamel …. To put these already sprayed ( much time ago) or brushed items into the dehydrator to continue or complete the cure process ?
Will putting previously already sprayed ( say within 6 months) into the dehydration process help the curing ?
Or should I just let previously painted items just “ time out” and cure naturally ?
Those parts are most likely fully cured. That said it won't damage them by putting them in the unit. Now if you live in a humid area then putting them I the dehydrator will help complete the process
Does the heat help with smoothing out the paint at all? This seems to work just like an actual paint booth.
HOLY CRAP YOU'RE THE BEST!
I love this thing. I use it every day. It's a favorite item in my workshop
@@barbatosrex9473 just used my dehydrator works amazingly
Man what a cool idea!
Do you use a respirator spraying enamels in the paint booth?
You can cut the center out on a couple of the rings on the circular dehydrators to give you space for a body and large pieces. That is what I did.
I bought the 6 tray Ivation Food Dehydrator. I put in parts painted with clear 1K urethane and also parts painted with clear lacquer for 10 hours at 113 degrees and it didn't cure the paint. I'm going to return it and go back to letting time cure the paint.
Nice dehydrator. I have a 16” round one by Presto that I use for enamels. I run mine at 95 degrees for 24 hours for enamels. Nice red paint. I’ve never sprayed the small bottles of Testors before. That came out great. Thanks for sharing. I do like your front load dehydrator.
I'm planning on a full test video on spraying the little square Testors bottles 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 That’s cool. I’ve got 100 bottles of them. Been using them for 50 years! Never airbrushed them once😁 since I’ve been watching your channel I’ve been venturing out and using a lot of different paints on every build. I shoot everything over duplicolor paint shop primer I get by the qt from Amazon. Keep up the good work.
Ps. I just got some mr. hobby super metallics 2 in. House of hobbies only had 4 of them. I got the regular super metallics gold, brass, copper, burnt iron. The super metallic gold is absolutely amazing.
Hi how you doing? Is this the six or 9 tray
9 Tray. The link to it is in the description below the video
Hi, could you let me know which gun you are using for printing that body?
GSI Creos Procon Boy 290. See it here spraygunner.com?aff=10
I decant the Krylon/Rustoleum rattle cans from Wally World. Is the curing time the same as the Testors? Thanks for giving a time table for the dehydrator.
The cure time is about the same as Testors. I good rule of thumb is to go longer and slightly less heat. Like just over 100 degrees and run it a little longer than usual. This would give you perfect results every time
How long should I set the dehydrator for a car body with clear lacquer over the color coat?
Hey Rex, I dont want to bug you but i have a question about these dehydrators. I just bought the same exact one you own. My question is, the louvered round vent on top. Think it would be a good idea to put some kind of air filter over the hole so it doesn't draw in dust particles ? It looks like this could be a issue. Obviously, I'm not talking about something thats dense enough to restrict air flow through exhaust fan. Maybe cheese clothe ? Thanks. I cannot wait to try my new toy ! Lol
I did add filter material to kine. I believe I showed that in my updated video on it. It's a great idea. I use mine every day
I need help I want to paint in the basement the models but my basement windows will not open. How do I pipe out paint fumes out of the basement if the windows will not open? I will make my own paint booth or make one out of a big plastic tote and a bathroom fan taped to it. Another question should I build my own spay booth for painting plastic models or buy one? Another question how do I make pigments stick to the place I apply them on my models the powder pigments I am using the mig branded ones
Can masking tape survive the dehydration process?
I have the one that micro mark sells. $160 ish bucks, worth every money. Also the heat can cause the body to warp leaving it on the tamiya stand with the metal springs. So be careful with that.
Are you still able to use that dehydrator for food or is that going to be toxic?
I only use it for this but my buddy uses his for everything. Says it dispels everything. Like baking painted ceramic mugs in your kitchen oven
Question? How were the fumes out of the dehydrator? especially with enamels and varnish drying? BTW, I can't thank you enough for all the info!!!!!!!
Zero fumes. I smell nothing when I open it when it's done or later after. Great piece of equipment to have 👍 thanks for watching
Awesome idea! Can I ask where you got the turn table you used to hold the car body?
Looks like a standard tamiya model painting table. I got one and looks just like it
You are correct, Tamiya
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you. I'm brand new to air brushing. So trying tp get tools and supporting stuff together.
How would this work with acrylics and smaller models? What temp and time would you recommend? For example drying a war hammer 40K army?
I've been going with 130 degrees for 20 minutes lately but it depends on your situation. Low and slow works well too, 100 for a couple of hours but I've been impatient and found that 130 for shorter times work well
I love your channel, do you know other technique to dry the paint? I mean with lamp and fam??
I don't. I've was shown this technique years ago in the smaller sized dehydrators but when I saw this one I had to have it. I use it every day and it's one of my favorite items in my workshop. With closed spaces I've always feared putting heat lamps and fans together but that's just me.
Do modelers cure acrylic too or just enamels?
I do both
Ok so I have been trying this out for about a month now. For some reason I’m not getting any different results then I would if I just let my pieces air dry. Except the paint seem to come detached from the plastic on the ones I put in the Dehydrator. I don’t know if the primer is melting or something. So I’m using acrylics and I used a few different primers ( Testers fine, army painters and the worst was Mission Models paints and primer. That stuff just flacked off primer and all like old lead paint. So I’m wondering what I might be doing wrong. When I spray I thin with water if I need to or Createx 4011 I think it is or Vallejo thinner. Then I let air dry like you said for 20 min sometimes a shorter time depending I’ll admit. Then into the Dehydrator. Now I have looked up other people using a dehydrator and there times a temps and I know on here you said the temp was about 120 or so but some say 140 150. So I tried all of them. All for 5 hours. And I get the same thing. Rather paint just falls off the model or it just ends up just like if I air dried it. Can you give me any ideas
I'd stick with 120 to 130 degrees. Try putting the pieces in right after you paint it. I've been having good luck with putting them in right after I paint it too. Then in about a half hour take it out and see what your results are
@@barbatosrex9473 will do! I’ll let you know how it turns out
Hi I paint fullsize football helments with base coat clear coat paint will this food dehydrator work thanks
Absolutely
Check out my updated video on this too
I really enjoy watching your videos, I have been painting for around 25 years and im learning new things from your experience. Question, how long should I keep fullsize football helments in dehydrator and what temp. Thank you so much
@@garydowning8299 go with a temp under 120 degrees, about an hour I would start to check it. Let it cool off about 5 minutes and see if it's dry
buy the way where did you buy those craft knife handles ?
Check out my other videos here where I feature my knives
ua-cam.com/video/SoYBsrA05B4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/WS1oy1ClZ74/v-deo.html
You put it at 122 F.? I don't understand, at 135 F my plastic Dodge chalenger melted after few minutes. ????????? The one I used is included on my mini oven. I was surprise to see that, and we can even see two scale model rim with tires on the button.
what is the name of that stand? and where did you get it?
It's a Tamiya paint stand. See it here amzn.to/3j13XT9
Does it spread the fumes though out the house or are they contained in the dihydrator?
I didn't smell anything at all so I would say it contained them. It worked out great
@@barbatosrex9473
It says to run it for 30 minutes to break it in, but it doesn’t say at what temperature. Do you remember what you set it at?
Here is one for everyone!
If you can’t afford a dehydrator like the one on the video, then get a Ronco dehydrator model number FD1005WHGEN. It’s under $40.00 on Amazon. I fit pickup truck and cars in it due to its dome type lid. I use only Testor Paint which take 3 weeks to be completely dry and cure. On top of the the lid are number settings, I put it on number 4. Heat ranges from 140 - 150 degrees. I found that at that temperature range I can keep in the dehydrator for 108 hours, equaling to 4 days 12 hours. My car’s and trucks paint jobs comes out completely dry, and completely cured.
I noticed the car body seemed warped. Was that from using the dehydrator or was it warped before? I’ve known people to use dehydrators but I don’t. Now seeing that the body was warped makes me more reluctant to purchase one.
It wa warped out of the box, it's an awful kit. Once I got it I knew I was just going to use the body for a test. It won't Warp your kits. Just set the heat to just over 100 and you shouldn't have a problem. Also you could also place the car body on a jar. Plus you can set the heat lower and run it longer for the same results.
Micro Mark has a paint dryer called the Micro Make Dr Dry Booth. It seems like it's basically a food dehydrator and it's expensive. It's $169.
So how do white enamels fare? Any yellowing?
I haven't tested white enamel yet but a friend told me it doesn't yellow. I will test it tomorrow.
I had to convert to celsius. I was confused at the beginning because of that. I read on Amazon that this device goes from 35 to 75 celsius degree.
Do you know if it can be dangerous for plastic at maximum values? I don't know at which temperature plastic starts to melt.
You could end up warping plastic at a higher temp. After I researched it the perfect temp for plastic models is a maximum of 120 degrees Fahrenheit
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you.
Every one, hold on a moment............... Food dehydrators are great YES, BUT do not exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit. If you intend to speed dry a plastic car over that 104 degrees you may end up with a sagging model. Did you ever try to dry a plastic model in your mothers stove at the lowest setting, good luck, and if she caught you !!!! The food dehydrator I have has no setting, plug and go, I tested it when I got home from the thrift store 104 degrees, good. Spent $8.00. It was the round kind with stacking rings, measures 11 inches in diameter and can get 2 car bodies inside. Got out the motor tool and hollowed the rings except the bottom. That dehydrator you have has variable heat, great for banana chips, so please be careful with your plastic, cheers.
Could you do the circle one if you cut out the middle of the circles?
Absolutely. Many of my subscripers have done this.
Dude... is that you backlog in the background? Nice!
That's part of it 😉 it also can be seen in some of my other vids. I believe the paint rack video shows more 👍
@@barbatosrex9473 Great content man! Getting back into this in my 50's, so much to catch up on! thanks again
@@briancasady6182 I'm 55 so join the club. I've done this since my youth thanks to dad and got back into it recently. Welcome back
@@barbatosrex9473 It must be catching - 55 as well! MIDLIFE crisis
Can I use this on food when I’m not using it on model kits?
Sure
I only use the Testors paints for details. I did not know it takes 3 weeks to cure. Wow.
would it also work if I used a hairdryer
It's not quite the same but you could use one on low setting, it should work fine
What airbrush paints do you use?
I actually use them all. See my video on my paint racks. For this one I sprayed Testors enamels, Tamiya Spray Can, Vallejo clear and Wicked Colors. But I own just about every paint on the market
@@barbatosrex9473 what is the best brand you’ve used? What do u recommend for me?
So I tried this put it on 115 and left it in for 5 hours. Used Tamiya paints but yet it was still tacky when It was done. Can you tell me why that might have happened
Wow, something is wrong for sure. I put my Tamiya paints in it the other day for 20 minutes and they were fully cured. I need more info, how did you thin your paint? What did you use and what ratio? How many layers did you spray?
@@barbatosrex9473 I used Tamiya flat black spray. I let it dry for 2 hours and then put it in for 5 hours at 115. I didn’t need to thin it with anything. But normally I just thin my Tamiya with water before use. But as soon as it was done I let it cool for a day and it was still tacky. On top of that I can rub it right off with my finger
@@normanbeaulieu4204 sounds like an issue with the paint
@@danzo5521 I don’t know what was going on. I tried different paint and different plastic. Sometimes it worked sometimes not. All I know is the only consistent drying I ever have is just letting it sit and air dry
@@danzo5521 but I did find a solution for painting any paint. From enamel to Lacquer to acrylic. And it doesn’t matter what plastic the kit is made of. I found if you use “purple primer” it’s a PVC plumbing primer. If you put it down like you would a regular primer that will let you use any paint on anything. From hard plastics to flexible and it will stick and not stay tacky. It’s purple so you need to use it with dark colors. Or what I do is mix it with black paint or ink and you then have a black primer. I think they make a clear version of the product as well so there is that
you only have to wait for paint to cure if you miss a window , if you spray as soo nas it flashes but doesnt cure you can actually spray primer , color and gloss and you will get great results. If yo uwait too long you risk getting chemical reactions
I’ve been looking at the createx autoair “Quicksilver Chrome candy2o Box Set”, have you tested this paint, in particular the quicksilver chrome?
It’s not bad as long as you don’t go to far with it. Meaning to many coats. Also I’ve found that before you 2K clear coat it if you use their uvls 4050 clear before applying 2K you get a better finished result.
@@FuelsModels
Thanks for the tip!
They state that this chrome effect is more durable than others, I’ve tried the spaz stix chrome but this one you can hardly touch at all... im guessing quicksilver is not as “shiny” as spaz stix but how durable is quicksilver without a clear compared to others and does it loose much shine with clearing it as you described?
@@GroggyGreg shine is pretty good as long as you don’t put a 2K clear right on top of it and don’t go to many coats. Like I said if you use the Createx 4050 uvls clear which is really good stuff you can put a 2K on that and even that’s not needed after using the 4050. Just gotta be careful of not going with to many coats.
@@GroggyGreg this is my results using it as a black chrome with 4050 then 2K clear.
ua-cam.com/video/cvUX7D15VfQ/v-deo.html
@@FuelsModels
Yeah, that looks really nice!
I got to order that box set and some 4050 :) thank you!
Did you get ever get to testing the candy as window tint?
right after I'm done painting my cars I like to put them in large Tupperware bowls or totes to keep the dust out
That’s one reason I’m watching this video, I’m about to get my first model ready to paint, but I’m afraid dust will fall into the paint, what do you do with the Tupperware?
@@robinfelix2276 I turn the Tupperware upside down and put it on the model I painted wherever I painted the model without moving it really carefully
@@robertmckelvey3091 oh okay yeah that sounds good, do you poke holes on the Tupperware to allow air to flow or it dries just good with no air flow?
@@robinfelix2276 using rattle cans works I'm not sure about acrylic paint though
It should dry fine only need to leave it on for 10 or 20 minutes to let it set up a little bit anything after that it should be hard enough to any dust to collect on it can be wiped off later
How much degree you applied?
Just over 100
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you for your kind reply.
Just made one
I believe at the beginning of this video you said that you were not happy with that Mustang model I am a big Ford person any chance of you sending me that model
Send me an email triggerfish65@gmail.com
Bro are those all for your hobby or do you run a shop?
It's just me and my model room 😉