I got a 97 Corolla with the 4AFE engine that is very similar to the configuration in this engine and received the P0340 error code for camshaft position sensor. Which I watched your video on that as well. Unfortunately the sensor is built into the distributor and there weren't any signs of issues running or starting the car for months, so I just drove it and then it just wouldn't start one day. I ended up changing the distributor last week and it's running great once again. So I really enjoyed watching this video as I just did the same thing in my Toyota. :)
In the 94/5 Toyota 4AFE engine etc with Denso coil as shown here , generally all that is required is a cap , rotor arm and plugs for a complete ignition overhaul . You can check the airgap at the reluctors in the bottom of the dizzy , by rotating the engine , using a 17mm spanner on the PS pump . Ensure it does not exceed 0.010"-0.012" ( 0.25mm-0.28mm). If it does then remove the distributor as it will need dismantling to adjust airgap but I have never found any problem with this type of distributor that does not use the TDC reluctor ( pickup ) just under the plastic cover . You will notice the pointer on the distributor shaft after pulling off the arm and carefully unclipping the black plastic cover at the top 2 clips ,,but there will be nothing in the top of the distributor that aligns with it . Both crank position and injector , ignition firing is dealt with by the one 'cam' and 2 reluctors in the base of the distributor . The resistance at the distributor cap between the coil and rotor arm point should not exceed 15k Ohms or thereabouts as unlike Hondas and others marques of the same age , Toyotas have radio interference suppression in the cap too . This can go open circuit even if the cap looks good .Check rotor arm at carbon brush contact point and tip between the insulation layers there should be continuity . The rotor arm may look fine but the thin layer of metal between the insulation on the OEM type burns back inside . If there is no continuity replace the rotor arm with one of the many solid brass pattern parts by Bosch etc. They sometimes come with a white ceramic anti spatter coating on them a few microns thick , which I scrape of on the narrow face only (the part from where the spark jumps to cap contact) until the brass is exposed along that face. Generally any problem here will mean that the plugs will need replacing too if the history of the vehicle is unknown. There is generally between 5k and 7k ohms the longer the spark plug lead , and rarely do the leads cause a problem . Use Denso or NGK plugs . All the tests above can be done with a £5 multimeter , or just a 12v test light . Across the battery it will glow bright , with the cap contacts in circuit quite dull but still bright enough to see , each lead from long to short , progressively brighter . As an added precaution to eliminate coil and ignitor problems simply take of the cap as shown . Connect a jump lead to battery negative and holding the plastic insulated clamp close to the coil to cap plate , ask a helper to crank the engine over for a few seconds while you slowly move the jump lead away . The spark from the coil should jump anywhere from 12- 19mm and often further to the cable clamp . This is a healthy coil and igniter . This will also show coil tracking to ground if engine misfires when driving , the spark will find an easier path to ground . If it tracks or does not jump the gap then the problem lies in the coil ( often visible on the top of the coil) , igniter or relucter windings inside the distributor which is actually quite rare and then and only then , consider replacing the dizzy with a good used one . But a cap and rotor arm swap is much cheaper if no problems are found . New rotor arm about £5( $6) cap about £11($12). A used distributor ( around £30+[$35]) may lead to the same problem a few hundred miles later and always at the most inconvenient time ! Except where mentioned about the resistance built into Toyota caps , the same method applies to most 4 cylinder cars of this age , where the suppression is carried in the plug leads expect around twice that value given above or more .
So what if the AM2 fuse keeps blowing when I turn the key in ON position? Do you think I should check the wires for a short or simply replace the spark plugs, distr cap and plugs? There's oil all on top of the motor and a little in the cap. It's broke down at a store.
Peter so what was the fix did u replace the whole distributor or just replaced the cap?? What about the ignition coil? What was the real problem .my car is also cranking and cranking won't start 1997 celica 1.8l
There are several factors to take into consideration when it comes at “ Crank but no start issues “ here is a logical rule to check : Battery , fuses , gas pressure , starter , spark and so forth before you jumped into a conclusion to a bad distributor , specially on older models where you don’t have the luxury to run a diagnostic tool , I am not a mechanic but if you follow this list you have a better chance to fix a “ Crank no start problem “ .
Hello....my distributor coil is burst open I purchase a distributor and installed it, after installing the distributor I connect one of wires wrong and start the vehicle, and now it's not starting at all, I'm wondering if I damaged my computer 😞😞
@@Leewanbeatz there is no way you could ruined your computer , the only thing is that your car will run like crap , unless you messed up with the distributor position where you moved the whole distributor assembly , or your distributor cap is on the wrong position .
Hi Peter, my engine is throwing a code 14 and has trouble starting. Is the ignition module located inside of the distributor? Do you have a video on how to replace the igniter/ignition module?
Mine is a Toyota model; e-ae100-aemek. When the engine is running and I press the accelerator pedal, the engine goes off. There's also the check engine sign on the dashboard. What could be the problem?
Mine is a 4af ae92 it cranks but won't start.timing OK,distributor is producing one hell of a spark and i recently did the compression rings and the compression is there but it just wont start ..fuel is coming in the carb
Peter all the coils are producing the spark except for only coil number 1. I've changed ignition coin got new cap, therefore the car won't start or sustain idle without depressing gas paddle. It's a 1989, 1.5l Toyota corrola, distributor, AE91, Japanese import
My issue is the distributor won’t flush when inserting it back in place could you tell me what’s the problem why does it not insert all the way a I can still see the base shinny metal what could be stopping it from seating flush ?
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor yeah but I live in Bangladesh and it doesn't ship here 😕 If you have a owner's/repair manual for Toyota Tercel/Corsa L40 1992 or 4efe engine (preferably pdf) please lemme know man. Really appreciate your videos helps me with my restoration project
Hi Peter so I changed the Distributor and Alternator and it was running 4 awhile. But one day it just stopped and won't start again. It's cranking up but it won't completely run. Would you happen to know what the problem is?
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor no I just found out what was wrong it's the timing that I have to adjust. So another question does a 5a engine have a timing chain or timing belt?
7afe i changed starter, cleaned spark plugs, crank but no start i cleaned a lot of white sustance inside connection of delco but still stalled.pls help
i have a toyota yaris 2005 1.0 it has a problem in starting once it starts with one attempt once with two to six attempts and when it turns it shakes for 3 seconds and normalizes immediately it does not do this in every ignition also when it turns on I hear a relay clicking under dashboard it cliks two times  i have a toyota yaris 2005 1.0 it has a problem in starting once it starts with one attempt once with two to six attempts and when it turns it shakes for 3 seconds and normalizes immediately it does not do this in every ignition also when it turns on key I hear a relay clicking under dashboard it cliks two times and the idle goes up and down when it warm for 3 min and and daily idle stay very high when i start and daily very low and hesitat when i start driving in 1rst gear and when acelerate and normalise please ca you helpy i cant find e solution from profesionals in may place !!!!
Hello Ibri A. I think your problem is this, 1.0 engine is bad design. I prefer to change your car Yaris 1.0 to Yaris 1.3 engine. I hope your problems will be solved. 😀
Had this epic issue as well. But the symptoms I got was very, very misleading. The initial symptoms was that the car tended to cut out when cold and trying to pull away. So, of course cold start was suspected. Fiddled here, fiddled there, nope. Did a spark plug test, no spark. Which was funny, as I replaced the coil a while ago, it was still new. Decided to get a new coil, had to wait for it... but I collected it this morning after 5 days' wait. Anyway. Installed it, car started first go. Now why would a coil go bad? I noticed that the centre brush pin of the distributor was worn off, which meant that there was a gap between the rotor arm and brush pin carrying the spark from the coil. Just to be safe I'll order and install a new distributor cap. I have moved the rotor arm up a slight bit to eliminate any gaps.
You did no troubleshooting, you don't know if it's a Ignition or fuel.problem, you did not check the spark plug wire at plug to see if your getting spark, you just explain how to change distributor, ???
God Daim I don’t understand half the shit you saying... maybe just show and write what you want to say with music playing in the background... because my head is hurting on trying to understand Sir 🙏🏽
I got a 97 Corolla with the 4AFE engine that is very similar to the configuration in this engine and received the P0340 error code for camshaft position sensor. Which I watched your video on that as well. Unfortunately the sensor is built into the distributor and there weren't any signs of issues running or starting the car for months, so I just drove it and then it just wouldn't start one day. I ended up changing the distributor last week and it's running great once again. So I really enjoyed watching this video as I just did the same thing in my Toyota. :)
Thanks. Very interesting info. :-)
In the 94/5 Toyota 4AFE engine etc with Denso coil as shown here , generally all that is required is a cap , rotor arm and plugs for a complete ignition overhaul . You can check the airgap at the reluctors in the bottom of the dizzy , by rotating the engine , using a 17mm spanner on the PS pump . Ensure it does not exceed 0.010"-0.012" ( 0.25mm-0.28mm). If it does then remove the distributor as it will need dismantling to adjust airgap but I have never found any problem with this type of distributor that does not use the TDC reluctor ( pickup ) just under the plastic cover . You will notice the pointer on the distributor shaft after pulling off the arm and carefully unclipping the black plastic cover at the top 2 clips ,,but there will be nothing in the top of the distributor that aligns with it . Both crank position and injector , ignition firing is dealt with by the one 'cam' and 2 reluctors in the base of the distributor .
The resistance at the distributor cap between the coil and rotor arm point should not exceed 15k Ohms or thereabouts as unlike Hondas and others marques of the same age , Toyotas have radio interference suppression in the cap too . This can go open circuit even if the cap looks good .Check rotor arm at carbon brush contact point and tip between the insulation layers there should be continuity . The rotor arm may look fine but the thin layer of metal between the insulation on the OEM type burns back inside . If there is no continuity replace the rotor arm with one of the many solid brass pattern parts by Bosch etc. They sometimes come with a white ceramic anti spatter coating on them a few microns thick , which I scrape of on the narrow face only (the part from where the spark jumps to cap contact) until the brass is exposed along that face. Generally any problem here will mean that the plugs will need replacing too if the history of the vehicle is unknown. There is generally between 5k and 7k ohms the longer the spark plug lead , and rarely do the leads cause a problem . Use Denso or NGK plugs . All the tests above can be done with a £5 multimeter , or just a 12v test light . Across the battery it will glow bright , with the cap contacts in circuit quite dull but still bright enough to see , each lead from long to short , progressively brighter .
As an added precaution to eliminate coil and ignitor problems simply take of the cap as shown . Connect a jump lead to battery negative and holding the plastic insulated clamp close to the coil to cap plate , ask a helper to crank the engine over for a few seconds while you slowly move the jump lead away . The spark from the coil should jump anywhere from 12- 19mm and often further to the cable clamp . This is a healthy coil and igniter . This will also show coil tracking to ground if engine misfires when driving , the spark will find an easier path to ground . If it tracks or does not jump the gap then the problem lies in the coil ( often visible on the top of the coil) , igniter or relucter windings inside the distributor which is actually quite rare and then and only then , consider replacing the dizzy with a good used one . But a cap and rotor arm swap is much cheaper if no problems are found . New rotor arm about £5( $6) cap about £11($12). A used distributor ( around £30+[$35]) may lead to the same problem a few hundred miles later and always at the most inconvenient time !
Except where mentioned about the resistance built into Toyota caps , the same method applies to most 4 cylinder cars of this age , where the suppression is carried in the plug leads expect around twice that value given above or more .
So what if the AM2 fuse keeps blowing when I turn the key in ON position? Do you think I should check the wires for a short or simply replace the spark plugs, distr cap and plugs? There's oil all on top of the motor and a little in the cap. It's broke down at a store.
Peter so what was the fix did u replace the whole distributor or just replaced the cap?? What about the ignition coil? What was the real problem .my car is also cranking and cranking won't start 1997 celica 1.8l
I love your videos bro. Im getting down your lingo pretty good.
Rock on!
very good Peter ...
Hi and Thanks You for comment. :-)
Hey Peter thank you for this! Helped me. Please can you do a video of this car in how to set engine timing with a timing light?
Ok, I need to do new video in future
Fuel pump not pulling gass
There are several factors to take into consideration when it comes at “ Crank but no start issues “ here is a logical rule to check : Battery , fuses , gas pressure , starter , spark and so forth before you jumped into a conclusion to a bad distributor , specially on older models where you don’t have the luxury to run a diagnostic tool , I am not a mechanic but if you follow this list you have a better chance to fix a “ Crank no start problem “ .
Noted 👍
Hello....my distributor coil is burst open I purchase a distributor and installed it, after installing the distributor I connect one of wires wrong and start the vehicle, and now it's not starting at all, I'm wondering if I damaged my computer 😞😞
@@Leewanbeatz there is no way you could ruined your computer , the only thing is that your car will run like crap , unless you messed up with the distributor position where you moved the whole distributor assembly , or your distributor cap is on the wrong position .
@@EivinSukoi The cap isn't in the wrong position, I replaced my coil and it wouldn't start after.
@@Leewanbeatz prior to replace the broken cap did your car run ??
Hi there Peter does this kind of distributor need a coil like the old 1E engine and if no what do you need to make it work ?
Noted 👍
Hi Peter, my engine is throwing a code 14 and has trouble starting. Is the ignition module located inside of the distributor? Do you have a video on how to replace the igniter/ignition module?
Good comment 👍
The way you talk about inserting your 12mm tool into a nice hole makes me laugh, especially with that accent of yours! Where are you from?
காரைக்குடி பக்கத்துல, கானாடுகாத்தான்
Thanks and noted 👍
this is what iam looking for.. tqvm
Noted with thanks 👍
Mine is a Toyota model; e-ae100-aemek. When the engine is running and I press the accelerator pedal, the engine goes off. There's also the check engine sign on the dashboard. What could be the problem?
Thanks for video I have learnt
It's my pleasure
This happen to my 08 Camry, how to fix? Any idea, fuses looks okay,
Is it relay?
Thanks for comment 👍😀
Mine is a 4af ae92 it cranks but won't start.timing OK,distributor is producing one hell of a spark and i recently did the compression rings and the compression is there but it just wont start ..fuel is coming in the carb
Timing
What is the original micropharad condenser of Toyota 4afe? Thank you
Hello. Very good question. I have to investigate the case.
Peter all the coils are producing the spark except for only coil number 1. I've changed ignition coin got new cap, therefore the car won't start or sustain idle without depressing gas paddle. It's a 1989, 1.5l Toyota corrola, distributor, AE91, Japanese import
Noted 👍
My issue is the distributor won’t flush when inserting it back in place could you tell me what’s the problem why does it not insert all the way a I can still see the base shinny metal what could be stopping it from seating flush ?
Adjust the fork before reinstalling
Sir can we sholder that metallic part of this distributor cap to fill the gap?
Yes
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor yes i tried but the sholdering iron does not attach with that distributor metal😢
Peter hi my car was doing axatly like on your video i bought new distributor and fit it but the car still doing the same thing?
Ok, look next area to repair
Maybe you have a dirty throttle and a dirty iacv if not a weak fiel pump
Heyy!! Do you have repair manual 7A-FE?
From ebay?
My 1987 Toyota 4AF engine at 85 000 miles is on its 3rd third distibuter. COIL I seen Toyoter on later engines moved the coil OFF the engine ??
Thanks 👍
Hey do you have repair manual for 4efe engine? Preferably pdf version?
Check ebay
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor yeah but I live in Bangladesh and it doesn't ship here 😕
If you have a owner's/repair manual for Toyota Tercel/Corsa L40 1992 or 4efe engine (preferably pdf) please lemme know man.
Really appreciate your videos helps me with my restoration project
Hi Peter so I changed the Distributor and Alternator and it was running 4 awhile. But one day it just stopped and won't start again. It's cranking up but it won't completely run. Would you happen to know what the problem is?
So, you have test parts again.
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor no I just found out what was wrong it's the timing that I have to adjust. So another question does a 5a engine have a timing chain or timing belt?
Hi, what is the torque specs of the two bolts attached to the engine?
About 60 NM
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor Thank you very much. I make it sure that I watch your video before I fix my car. More power to you
hey good day, my A/T OIL LIGHT doesnt wanna go off after i changed the termostat help
Please add more oil
Have a opel kaddet 1992 we have no spark on coil we replaced module coil and distribetar pickup stil no spark ??
Noted 👍
Por favor de onde vem o sinal do contas giros(rpm)desse corollla?O meu corolla não passa de 1200 rpm.
Sensores ao redor do motor. Eixo de comando e biela
Hi peter, where would be the problem, if the chek in and battery lights are off, while I start the car??
That's what I need to know too
👍
Distributorcap for 7afe engine where to buy ? .
From ebay?
How much voltage should the distributor be getting with the key on? The yellow on my car is getting 6 volts
12V
7afe i changed starter, cleaned spark plugs, crank but no start i cleaned a lot of white sustance inside connection of delco but still stalled.pls help
Install gasoline insiden the cylinders
@@PeterFinnTheCarDoctor yeah!!! Im now accesing fuel pumo first check voltage under rear seats, man which is ur country? Me spain
Hi Peter, did you get an error code 14 in this video?
Good comment!
i have a toyota yaris 2005 1.0 it has a problem in starting once it starts with one attempt once with two to six attempts and when it turns it shakes for 3 seconds and normalizes immediately it does not do this in every ignition also when it turns on I hear a relay clicking under dashboard it cliks two times

i have a toyota yaris 2005 1.0 it has a problem in starting once it starts with one attempt once with two to six attempts and when it turns it shakes for 3 seconds and normalizes immediately it does not do this in every ignition also when it turns on key I hear a relay clicking under dashboard it cliks two times and the idle goes up and down when it warm for 3 min and and daily idle stay very high when i start and daily very low and hesitat when i start driving in 1rst gear and when acelerate and normalise please ca you helpy i cant find e solution from profesionals in may place !!!!
Hello Ibri A.
I think your problem is this, 1.0 engine is bad design. I prefer to change your car Yaris 1.0 to Yaris 1.3 engine. I hope your problems will be solved. 😀
Does new cars have distributor ?
No
You are reaching easy understand
👍
My car 5a fe starts and stalls after a kilometer and stops to return the fuel. What could be the reason?
Noted
My Corolla starts than cut off immediately what may be the cause of that
Yes
How will I replace the Toyota True no engine head❤
Thanks Sir 😀👍
thank you so much master
You are very welcome
Had this epic issue as well. But the symptoms I got was very, very misleading.
The initial symptoms was that the car tended to cut out when cold and trying to pull away.
So, of course cold start was suspected. Fiddled here, fiddled there, nope.
Did a spark plug test, no spark. Which was funny, as I replaced the coil a while ago, it was still new.
Decided to get a new coil, had to wait for it... but I collected it this morning after 5 days' wait. Anyway.
Installed it, car started first go.
Now why would a coil go bad?
I noticed that the centre brush pin of the distributor was worn off, which meant that there was a gap between the rotor arm and brush pin carrying the spark from the coil.
Just to be safe I'll order and install a new distributor cap. I have moved the rotor arm up a slight bit to eliminate any gaps.
I am in Jamaica can you send me a distributor for a 4a engine
Noted
My 98 corolla won't start yet I have sparks on the distributor
Thanks for comment.
It already done to change the ignition coil but no power also
I have read your post, good comment 👍
My car just died, no ignition or dash lights and the car wouldn't start. What to do?
Charge your battery monk
I've got a problem with my MK1 CITY GOLF. It's not bringing power to the distributor plug for sparking purpose. The coil is okay.
Corolla 95 on a cold morning does not start
Noted
Why is my distributor not producing power
shaft bad?
My distributor of 4afe engine Toyota corona not even producing power to the high tension leads...
You did no troubleshooting, you don't know if it's a Ignition or fuel.problem, you did not check the spark plug wire at plug to see if your getting spark, you just explain how to change distributor, ???
Noted
God Daim I don’t understand half the shit you saying... maybe just show and write what you want to say with music playing in the background... because my head is hurting on trying to understand Sir 🙏🏽
Thanks for comment. 👍
Jb