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Upgrading to an Induction Hob - Hisense I6433C - Installation and Review
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2024
- In this video I'll be upgrading from my ancient electric hob to a brand new Hisense induction hob. This new hob has excellent performance yet costs under £200. We will take a look at the installation followed by a demonstration and review of the hob itself.
=== DISCLAIMER ===
I am not an electrician, do not take the installation steps shown in this video as an instructional video, if in doubt, contact a competent person to install your hob.
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Sections:
00:00 - Introduction
01:28 - Looking at New Hob
03:33 - Removal of Old Hob
07:35 - Installation of New Hob
21:46 - Testing & Review
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If you're just here for a review of the hob, skip to 21:46 to skip the installation.
Those old plate hobs are the absolute worst, the time taken to heat up or cool down is crazy. I have one. I detest it. I really must get around to replacing it. Sadly no gas here...
what is the internal dimensions of the hob?
thanks!
Very good explanation of the situation. I actually had a hob replaced by a well known online white goods retailer. @£50 to get it installed, took around 40mins which included quite thorough circuit testing. Had previously had my property re-wired a while back: 20amps to oven. 32amps to hob. Cooking on indcuction is great - no gas fumes, fast/efficient.
Could you tell me the name for minorista shop please
Hi Cameron. Many thanks for this. Installed my HiSense hob and got error code F5. Watched your wiring installation and realized I was only powering one side hence the code. Hob came from Amazon with zero installation instructions, many thanks for yours. Mike
Thanks dude. I just put my hob in. Missed the connection plates in the wiring and had an error code. You saved me stress!
in Australia we are starting to have plug and play devices, basically anything that is 40 amps or less isn't "hardwired" in, they just have the Australian standard plug that is designed for 40 AMPs, (it's a little larger than normal outlet so smaller plugs can fit) which makes it easier to replace, they just unplug and plug a replacement inside and charge us for the product and time to replace it rather than play the game of "what rats nest is up here?"
I should be expecting almost everything to be like that soon, especially with the way that it can make life easier, imagine replacing LED downlights every year that isn't edison or bayonet
That's interesting. In continental Europe, some built-in appliances (such as ovens) are starting to use regular wall plugs, as they're rated for less than 3kW anyway (long-term power limit on a standard grounded plug).
But since 3-phase plugs are really uncommon (if anything, you're more likely to see them in a garage than a kitchen), full-sized induction hobs are almost all designed to be hardwired.
And even though most of them are compatible with 230V, it's hardly a great way to use them, since that limits the power draw to 3.6kW short-term - so if you wanted to quickly boil one large pot of water, you wouldn't be able to use any other induction elements.
Can you please add a close up photo of the cabling connection at the hob end? I'm trying to wire my own hob in and have this model. Thanks
The only time I've used a modern induction hob was in a Hotel/Apartment which a compact 2 ring in the kitchen. It was quite frustrating to find it was deault safetly/child locked before you could do anything with it! Also the time you have everything on is Christmas!
I need to get one of these... I'm stuck with a shitty cooker like your old hob. Thanks Cameron. More videos, please.
can you please tell what functions it has? and how it works after 3 years?
Bought this hob and my heart stopped when I saw no lead. Your guided was so helpful, than you
Hope yours is still working well. Mines 2 years old. A few days after the warranty goes out a temp sensor needs changing on one of the rings. Going through Hisense they want £180.
Finally after 2 year I figured out how to connect those zones into one lol Thanks!!!
Informative video, subtitles made it even harder to understand what was said. Thanks
I bought one of these hobs last week as it looks great but unfortunately I didn't have enough space beneath my worktop for it due to a double oven below. The induction hob itself is 50mm deep but requires an extra 20mm of space below for the cooling fans in the underside, something to be aware of. I could probably have just fitted the induction hob in (my old ceramic one was 40mm deep) but the fans would've been right up against the outer casing of the oven - bound to upset the induction hob ☹
One thing you should be careful with this hob is not to chip any of the corners- since the side ones are neither beveled, nor protected by a metal trim, they're quite susceptible to it.
It probably won't affect the functionality, but it poses a potential risk of cutting ones hand.
I'm looking to get a similar hob but I've noticed that a lot of modern hobs now don't have any clamps/screws or anything to mount the hob into place. I just think an appliance such as this would be safer if it's mounted securely in place. I wouldn't want it to move around during cooking or for the potential of over-boiled water to seep through. Clamps/screws would surely hold it more securely and allow for the strips to push harder into the worktop. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
I used a Bosch one once, the controls on it were stupid. This is much better.
Agree about the Bosch controls, at least in the previous models.
Thanks for covering the installation Cameron, and for following up with the review
Excellent video Cameron - I feel ready to do my own after watching this - Thank you!
Good video, covered most of the main points and a few more, nice to see the hob operation and its performance, great addition. Cheers buddy!
I am suppose to do this today as mine broke on Saturday. Still waiting for stock to be delivered.
If youre spurring off for the oven that spur cable should be 6mm or your 32a breaker isnt going to trip to protect the cable if the oven pulls more than it should in a fault condition. Thats why it was a fcu before
There's a 13a fuse in the oven's plug... It's no different from spurring off a 32a ring in 2.5mm to add a single or double socket.
@@camerongray1515 That fuse only protects the 1.5mm flex going to oven though, not the 2.5mm cable going from the oven connections to the 13a socket. on a ring final you have the current shared down 2 2.5mm cables its not just 1 2.5mm t&e that is taking the current as current flows through the path of least resistance. minimum cable on a 32a mcb is 4mm and goes up to 6mm depending on volt drop for run of cable and short circuit current.
That's simply not the case. The fuse in an FCU is in the exact same position in the circuit as a fuse in a plug, there's just some plug pins in between. If the oven develops a fault drawing more than 13a the fuse will blow, how can current still flow through the 2.5mm cable if the fault has blown the 13a fuse stopping all power to the oven? I'm familiar with how a ring works and yes, you have a pair of 2.5mm cables, however, it is totally permitted to spur off of a ring using a single 2.5mm cable as long the spur only feeds one single/double socket with the idea being that a double socket with a pair of 13a plugs can draw a maximum of 26a which is within the limit of the 2.5mm cable.
Thanks for mentioning the busbars (jumpers) !
Hi Cameron, cracking review im currently thinking of upgrading an old electric hob too and looking at induction hobs. Your video was very informative of the installation and the actual use of the hob and im pretty sure im gonna go for the same one. Thank you!
I was looking for your network security improvement video?
Thanks for the very helpful video Cameron! I’m installing mine Friday and wondered if I need anything else other than the sealing tape. Do I need silicone as well to stop it moving/sliding around or is the tape enough? Thanks
Such a helpful video! Probably helps I have the same old oven/hob combo, likely the same developer by the sounds of it... Thank you!
So many brand new rental flats with solid plate hobs, drives me mad. Tempted to replace mine like this myself, but the landlord wouldn't be happy - even though it's an upgrade!
With rental apartment developers, if there's an opportunity to save 10 €/£/$ by making something 50% worse, they'll take every one of them. 😐
I suspect that that hob is not actually designed for a 3 phase supply, as it only has two phases there. Perhaps it is designed for both UK and a north america system. Over the pond, they have what can loosely be called split phase where they ground the center tap of their disto transfomers. At least this way the hob will always be able to get 230~240V or so from it's supply. Keep the videos coming :)
yup, split phase here in north america is two 120v legs with a bonded neutral, so you can get 240v by going across the two legs. anecdotally, the only things in my house that're 240v are two 500w electric baseboard heaters for an addition without forced air heat, and my clothes dryer. my oven/cooktop (which is usually one integrated 'range' here) is natural gas.
Just because you have three phases available doesn't mean you have to use all of them! Having said that, you might want to use the remaining phase for your oven.
I imagine this hob just contains two or more single-phase power supply modules. When you wire it for two phase use, it'll be equivalent to connecting one single phase 3.6kW hob to each phase. That way, they can use the same power supply modules in different sized hobs.
In North America, you would have to wire this appliance as single phase 240V, which is what you get if you wire L-L instead of L-N on one of those North American 'split phase' supplies. This hob won't work on 120V. It also won't work in North American properties that have 208V L-L (three phase). It's only specified for use with 220-240V 50/60Hz supplies.
The use of Diversity at 9:35 is interesting and you got a point about realistically not everything will be maxed. However, I think an electrician would point out that diversity is not academically used for calculating cable current capacity, it is used for the gauging if the 100A supplier's fuse to the house would break or not. The use of diversity in your install and your thinking is about whether there is a fire risk and thus a danger to life and property, whereas the normal use of diversity the risk is of power cutting out to your house or of the substation being overloaded.
Obviously I'm not an electrician, although John Ward (an electrician who as far as I'm aware is pretty well regarded) made a video about cooker circuits and seems to state that diversity can be applied to the cable and circuit breaker rating of a cooker circuit: ua-cam.com/video/QQduU8RkjD8/v-deo.html. He also shows a section of the IET On-Site Guide which also states that a 32A circuit is appropriate for household cookers up to 15kW so they must be using diversity for that statement since without it, a 15kW load would equate to over 65A.
@@camerongray1515 Cool thanks for the critical thinking on this. Just thought a bit more on it and in your case the worst thing that could happen is your MCB tripping if it goes above 32A, not a fire risk. Apologies for the scare
You should put timestamps in the description, youtube has a new timestamp feature, which actuall sets chapters to the video if they are written below
Interesting! I've added them in so will need to see if that takes effect, from what I can see it's only been rolled out to some creators but hopefully everyone gets it in the future!
Cameron brilliant hod video very well explained . Please do one on built in double ovens and recommendations. Many thanks
Thanks for the video. The installation and load ratings was helpful
I just ordered one of these before I seen your video. I've been cooking on a Primus single ring gas camping stove for the past 5-6 years so this should be good. The camping stove is a good one though, outputs 2kW and boils water in no time so I couldn't go back to crappy ceramic or in your case those completely awful solid ring hobs. The bizarre thing is people still buy these crappy solid ring hobs when induction hobs have become almost as affordable.
This tutorial was subpar for an installer. It skipped the electrical setup entirely and lacked close-up shots of the final result. Instead, it spent too much time discussing amperage considerations, which became tedious. I'll try to provide additional details to help:
- Jumpers: I struggled with the jumpers, initially unsure if there was a specific slot for them. They actually go into the same holes as the wires (which is obvious in hindsight). Don't worry if they seem loose at first - once the screw above the jumper is tightened, everything fits securely.
- Clamp: Removing the clamp was difficult, even with the top screw removed. I had to use a screwdriver as a lever to pry it off.
This video was not intended to be a tutorial, I deliberately avoided closeups of wiring because I wanted to avoid people who didn't have sufficient electrical knowledge from blindly copying what I did based on what they saw without actually understanding what they were doing - especially factoring in that different counties may have different electrical installations that require different wiring. The "tedious" discussion of understanding the current ratings and circuit capacity are very important to understand when installing such a powerful hob and could pose a real fire risk if not calculated correctly. People who already understsnd that side of things can always skip ahead. If I showed connecting the wires in detail and didn't cover the current rating side of things, I can guarantee I'd get people who with limited electrical knowledge trying to wire this hob into a supply that used to feed a gas hob igniter which is in no way capable of handling the load from this hob.
Excellent informative video. I am considering purchasing this particular induction hob and needed to find out all things I needed to consider. I have the same old electric hob however have a double oven below and not enough space between induction and oven, so thinking I need to cut out part of the kick board and dropping support shelf to accommodate it
Hi Cameron, could I ask you a question about the installation guide that came with this hob please? I have a hisense induction hob but a different model and the guide only contains instructions for flush mounted fitting. Was your guide the same? I just want to know if the flush fitting is optional as I have been told that the hob should have brackets otherwise. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. I just bought one and am waiting for it to arrive. It is a Bosch series 4. I believe I have a phase 3 as it is a thick cable that’s connected to my current, ceramic hob . Do you think I will get full power on each hob with a 3 phase or will it reduce in power with each burner turned on? I’m like you, I don’t want to sacrifice power when turning another one on, but little did I think of this when I bought it
Hi Cameron. Do you happen to know/remember the measurements of the worktop hole you needed to cut? Looking to get this hob but wanted to check it would fit first. Thanks
Right side of this induction doesn't work now just flashing any idea ?
Hi Cameron, really helpful video thanks. Recently installed a similar model and one side of the job isn’t working. Realise that I need the jumpers that you used . Where did you purchase them? Can’t seem to find searching online . Thanks
They should come with the hob as they're custom sized for your particular hob and not a standard part, if you didn't get any I'd contact the manufacturer to ask for some or see what their recommendation is. I suppose some manufacturers may want to you to instead link the terminals with a bit of suitably rated wire. In the case of mine the links were tucked into a little slot inside the wiring compartment so worth checking on yours to see if they are in there, alternatively they may have come in the hob packaging along with the various fixings.etc that it may have included.
I've read negative reviews about the noise of this model. Is it an issue?
It makes a noise but it's not really worse than any other induction hob I've used, just a slight hum that clicks on and off but it's pretty quiet (can't hear it over the sound of the actual food cooking). Then there's the fan that kicks on if it's under heavy use but it's no worse than the noise a laptop will make if it ramps it's fans up. My fan oven is much louder than this hob running at full power.
thanks you convinced me to buy this induction :) 249 here in amazon, wow
I would have cut the power wire and stripped new copper from the cable for the new hob btw
Exactly what I did, I just didn't show it on video because it was too fiddly to bother filming.
Do you ha e the wiring part of this video please?
Hi , is there any issues if we use aluminium granite cookware using on glass hob?
I’ve bought a job and have started to wire as per diagram but with the links fitted I have 2 wires not connected do I cut them off or use insulation tape??
I'd suggest contacting an electrician since it seems like you have unconventional and possibly unsuitable wiring for this hob. Those wires would need isolated in a suitable terminal block, not just taped off. Additionally, if they're connected at the other end, you'd need to work out why they are there and what they were used for on the old hob. Finally, if after connecting L, N and E to the hob you still have 2 wires left over, this sounds like you have some sort of 5 core cable which I'd highly doubt is rated anywhere close to the current requirements of this hob. If the cable is under-rated, at best you'll blow a fuse, at worst the cable will melt and catch fire when you have the hob under heavy use. What type of hob did you have previously and how was it connected? If it was a gas hob then it's likely that the cable was just designed for a low power igniter and they likely used some leftover 5 core flex, this wouldn't be suitable for an induction hob and you'd likely require additional electrical work to install a suitable supply.
I do love induction hobs the best kind imo
prefer gas, but induction is a close second
HI Mate, Did you get the sealing tape with the Hob? or did you purchase it seperately. I puchased HISENSE - I6421C but it did not come with a sealing tape or any putty mould.
It came packed with mine, think it was in the same bag as the paperwork.
M8 so you just connect everything to normal socket and everything working properly?no fuses problems when you use power boost on the?
This particular model is designed for hard wiring. It does have a feature to limit the power which would potentially let you wire it into a 13a supply but this will limit how many rings you can have on high power at the same time. I also haven't tested this. Unless you plan on moving to a hardwired connection in the future you're probably better getting a hob that comes with a 13a plug from the factory.
Excellent demo many thanks
29:48 would the induction pot adapter damage the hob?
I'm upgrading from a gas hob, as you mention around 11:20, so the existing outlet was just for the gas ignition. What do I need to do to enable it to power the new hob?
It's unlikely that a supply for a gas igniter is powerful enough to run a large induction hob unless it was installed with the provision that an electric hob may be used instead (unlikely). In this case you would need to either add in a dedicated circuit for the hob, or you may be able to run it off of a feed for an existing electric oven depending on the rating of that circuit and the rating of the oven. I'd suggest that if you aren't confident enough to calculate this yourself you consult an electrician to take a look. You can technically run this hob off of a 13a supply through a plug or fused connection unit (can set a current limit in the settings menu of the hob) but this'll majorly limit the power output so I definitely wouldn't recommend it as it would likely end up performing worse than your gas one.
My existing Hob plugs in to a 13 Amp Socket and my Cooker is wired up separate Could I put a 13Amp plug on this Model and use the same socket
Obviously I'm not an electrician so bear that in mind (don't take anything I say as professional advice) however this hob does mention in its manual (page 28 d3537i9v051wn8.cloudfront.net/uploads/2018/12/785435_I6433C.pdf) that you can set a current limit of 10, 12, 13 or 16A so I can't see why not as long as you use a suitably fused plug and a flex that's capable of carrying the full 13A and make sure you set that limit so that you don't end up blowing the fuse constantly. Doing this however will limit the power output so you may not be able to run all the rings on full power at the same time. That said, you can also get induction hobs that come with 13A plugs pre-attached so unless you plan on hardwiring it in the future, one of those may be a simpler option.
Only thing I'd be careful of is your circuit that's being used for your current hob - if you have a gas hob it's possible that the socket was only ever intended for the igniter which is low current so if you have say, that socket sharing a 20a circuit with your oven, or if it's just part of your kitchen ring, you may find that running a 13a hob at full whack while also say, running your oven or washing machine, may be enough to trip the circuit.
It may also be worth considering getting an electrician to take a look - it could be possible that your existing oven circuit may be able to handle the hob as well or it may be a case that adding an existing circuit in may not be too painful.
Must be going daft as I rechecked to find out my existing Hob (which I intend to replace) is actually hard wired to a PowerPoint in the back of the below so the only bit I did not get is the wiring up
That's better than a socket but you'd just need to take care to ensure that the circuit is rated to take the full power of this hob if the one you're replacing is less powerful.
might help when showing the connection procedure to not have your hand in the way
I deliberately didn't go into too much detail around the connection process, kept the camera back and didn't show the process of me actually connecting the wires. As I'm not an electrician, I was worried about making a totally easy to follow "put this wire here" style tutorial in the fear that people would blindly follow my instructions and end up doing something unsafe such as connecting it to an existing circuit by simply marching the colours without looking at whether the circuit can handle the load of this hob. There's a wiring diagram printed next to the terminals but if in doubt, please contact an electrician.
Love it, oven has never been fixed in but like whatever, lol
Just bought one of these Cameron, based on your review as I am a long standing subscriber! How are you finding it 12 months later?
It's been absolutely fine, honestly can't fault it at all!
Nice video Cameron, did the foam seal come with the hob or did you buy it on your own? Cheers!
It was included with the hob
Is there supose to be a magnetic shield between the top of the oven and the induction hob ?
This isn't' something I've ever heard of or seen, surely the hob is sufficiently shielded internally. I've seen plenty induction hobs installed over ovens and cutlery drawers.
some newer houses are getting 2 or 3 phase now apprently or are being upgraded for electric cars and solar panels
I'd hope so given the potential move away from gas boilers. At least that would mean places could be fitted with 3 phase electric boilers. I dread having to move somewhere with electric panel heaters and an electric shower after now being used to a 35kW combi boiler.
@@camerongray1515 that fully electric show guys house was redone with three phase lyric for his solar panels and Tesla solar batteries, because he had so much spare to give to the grid
Hi there what pots are you using? Thanks in advance
Great video. You have a great accent
My 13A ceramic hob is honestly the worst, or so I thought 😀
Hi Cameron! Are you still enjoying this induction hob?
Yep, still working great, no complaints!
Is this horrible buzzing noise normal (22:30s)?
It's fairly normal for induction hobs to make some sort of buzzing noise, in particular at full power the noise can be fairly noticeable, however at lower powers (the ones you'd actually cook at rather than the ones you'd use to bring something up to temperature quickly) it's more of a quieter, pulsing buzz sound.
Top tip: boil your water in a kettle first and then add it to your saucepan
Cómo la desbloqueo
nice
Looks good thanks
What is F6 error code???
Thankssssss for the video
Can u tell me induction cooker and electric cooker and cyramic all is same or different ? Pls reply
The only similarity is that they run on electricity, totally different otherwise. Regular electric "hot plate" hobs are the cheapest but are extremely slow and hard to control. Ceramic are the ones that look like glass and light up red when they heat up, they're better but are still a lot slower and less controllable than induction or gas. Induction uses magnetic induction to heat the base of the pan directly, they are by far the most efficient and controllable out of all electric hobs and are pretty much on par with gas. However, the only downside of induction hobs is that they only work with pans made of ferrous material (material that a magnet will stick to) so can't be used with aluminium or copper cookware, these simply won't heat up at all.
Cameron Gray thank you so much I’ll go for induction hobs only.. Plss one more question if u can reply me please... do they take more electricity like if compare induction or ceramic which makes electric bills less? And I live in uae 🇦🇪 it’s hot country 8 months summer and 4 months its winter here cold. So it’s safe to use it here in this climate Plss reply it will be very helpful cauz I am going to buy this 1st time
Great vid, does it secure to the worktop or just sit on top?
It just sits in place and the foam seal stops it sliding around, you could still just lift it out but I've never found it move around in use
Damn that boils the water quickly
How big is the cut for it ?
I've just ordered the same one. How's yours holding up after 2 years?
It's been great, can't really fault it, especially for the price. Worst I've had is maybe a couple of times it's not responded to button presses and needed turned off and on again but that's the only issue I've had at all.
@@camerongray1515 Thank you for a quick reply mate. Currys are dropping mine off on Tuesday.
Must have been expensive, I had seven ads.
i had 0
The one bit I wanted to see was the one bit you didn’t show, the wiring. 🤦🏻♂️
I deliberately didn't go into too much detail around that - I'm not a qualified electrician so while I'm confident enough in my own ability, I didn't want to provide a low barrier of entry instructional video that could encourage people to try this themselves if they aren't confident enough electrically. In particular I wanted to avoid someone looking at a closeup of the wiring and just trying to replicate what they saw from the picture rather than actually following the instructions.
How's electric rate ?
How's it going 10 months later? Any problems?
Still running great, honestly can't fault it!
Nice video 👍
youre the man mate, had the exact same piece of shit hob so this helped a lot
those touch buttons look like theyd get dirty when cookin
Where the US link
Last time I checked this wasn't available in the USA unfortunately
@@camerongray1515 thx buddy
Still working?
Yep, still going strong!
@@camerongray1515 Thanks for the reply
Cook some food on it. Boiling water isnt an indication of a good product.
The water was to provide a fair, repeatable, comparison between the two to show the overall time to heat up and to provide a visual demonstration of the responsiveness. My feedback overall was after a couple of weeks of cooking on it regularly. Trying to film myself actually cooking would have been awkward and wouldn't have provided particularly useful content.
Couldn't understand most of what he said.....
I’m sure you could have found a way to connect a vacuum cleaners to that saw and save having so much dust everywhere.