Just a quick disclaimer about the title in the beginning of the video. This knife is not a Tommi puukko, I got confused by the name of the blade based on its diamond shape. I just couldn't change the title without removing the video and reuploading it. Thanks for your understanding :)
Fantastic job! What beautiful countryside at the end. I’m a fan of Scandinavian style knives. I’m half Norwegian and have several Norwegian, Finnish and Swedish knives in my collection. I have also bought Finnish blade blanks and made the hafts and sheaths myself. Thanks 🎸🔪
Beatiful knife sir! I lovet YP knife plates! Yrjö Puronvarsi is one of bests knife plate makers hi starts makes knifes year,1940! That YP,plates are old Finish style plates! maket old fasion ways!
Great job!I've made puukkos and the Scandinavian style sheaths as well.I also make the wooden liner for the sheath.Yeah Tommi puukkos have a rhomboid blade shape.YP Taonta will be my next handmade knife(I buy knife blanks and add the handle like you do.I like Tommi blades.My latest handmade knife was a Helle Utvaer,made in Norway.I'm awaiting 10 ounce tooling leather to make the sheath for it.Thanks for the video
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss It's just my experience with this type of glue. I tried so many different products but in the end none of them worked. They don't work in wet and cold conditions especially not with goods that will bend or are exposed to different forms of pressure. The only type of glue that works is an industrial two component glue like epoxy or something like this in combination with a primer and a filler for bigger gaps.
You are right, I made a Leuku years ago and I used it to chop trees and stuff and the glue broke due to the pression on the handle. That's why on the last knife I made I started to use epoxy glue which seem to have more elasticity. Thanks for sharing your experiences ;)
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss This is one of the reasons why the nordic knife makers have used sliced birch bark or leather slices without glue as a handle material. they pressed it and then they fixed it with metal and a hammered tang. so the knife was comfortable, strong and flexible at the same time. A glued handle without a fixation with screws or nails will not last.
Hi, I have two questions: do you work on dry or moistened leather ? (between 11:47 and 14:18), and second : makes it sens tu use brass on the handle? at the beginning if shiny, looks gorgeous but after few weeks in sheath it will react with leather and will get ugly, green residue
Hi, thanks for the comment. The leather is slightly soaked into warm water and directly worked. I'm not an expert on leather working, I learn along the way, from my experiences and from what I see on online. There's surely a better way to do it ^^' Traditionally on Finnish knives and scandinavian type of knife you often see brass for the guard/bolster. That's the reason I did it but also because I like the look of it and I accepted that a knife like this requires regular maintenance and care. The way I see it, if your brass gets a bit old, or if you hit the wood of the handle, you can still sand it slightly, polish the brass and apply a new layer of linseed oil. The other option would be to apply several layers of varnish which will seal the brass, the wood and the antlers. On the other side if you hit the handle the varnish will chip and you can not revarnish it and having something that looks neat and clean. Basically it's a personnal choice, either you oil it and you know that you will have to take care of it and apply some oil some time to time or you can have something really neat with varnish but if you hit it it will age not so well.
It's actually moose(elk) antler, it's still porous but dense enough to work with ;-). The reindeer antler works perfect as well depending of the quality of it but regular deer antler is too porous.
Its just about a puukko style, not Saami or finnish Saame puukko. Even if you are right, there are many different styles of blades handles and sheaths in Finland south, north, east, west- regions, villages and Maker to Maker. Look for: unna-niibas (small knife) and stuorra niibas (leuku, bigger knife) unna for small chores and leuku for big chores (all most axe) if leuku blade are about 10-17cm its just made for tourist
I can't figure out if you're a french or english speaker, so I'm going to speak in english. That's a beautiful job you've done here. What glue did you use ? Can you tell me a bit more about it ?
Merci pour le commentaire ! Nativement le français, mais j'ai beaucoup de peine à ne pas faire de fautes d'orthographe, c'est probablement pour ça ^^'. C'est de la colle polyuréthane (PU ou PUR) des vernis très résistants en sont composés et on en fait de la mousse expansive également. Généralement c'est utilisé pour les travaux de menuiserie extérieur car elle est conçue pour résister aux intempéries contrairement à la colle blanche vinylique qui est solvable à l'eau. Ce que j'aime bien aussi avec cette colle c'est qu'elle s'expanse légèrement en séchant,ça permet de combler les éventuels trous dans le manche. Voilà j'espère avoir apporté des infos. Bravo pour les 1000 abonnés ;-) c'est pas facile d'être consistant et de fournir un effort constant. Keep going !
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss pas de soucis pour les fautes d'orthographe, j'en fais entièrement aussi 😅 D'accord, et ça colle aussi le métal ? Ça peut se poncer, c'est suffisamment dur une fois sec ? Merci beaucoup ! Je suis en train de regarder toutes les vidéos de ta chaîne, elles sont superbes, tu vis où ?
Oui ça peut coller le métal, ça se ponce mais c'est pas "plein" comme de la colle deux composants ou autres. Quand ça s'expanse ça fait des bulles et ça sèche. Merci du compliment ! j'habite dans les alpes suisse
Because the PU glue slightly expand itself when drying. You can increase this expansion by watering the parts (it sounds wrong said like that ). My reasoning was that if my part adjustment wasn't perfect the glue would fill the gaps and maintain some resistance inside the handle. But now I'm slowly using Epoxy because it's way harder and it seems more durable.
Tutto 'sto lavoro per fare un manico! Quando facevo coltelli, e facevo manici più elaborati di questo, con raspa, lima e carta vetrata di varie grane, ero più veloce ed esatto. NON adoperavo utensili meccanici. Comunque, bravi! Complimenti!👍💪☺️
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss j'habite à côté de Marseille tu fais des super couteaux et j'ai du mal à trouver du cuir pour mes fourreaux. La déco sur le bois de renne c de l'encre
You are right, it isn't a Tommi puukko nor exactly a traditional saami knife. I was inspired by the saami puukko to make this one, that's it. I know there's a lot of different variations between saami knives depending on the area. I was confused in first place because the type of blade is a diamond shaped one, made especially for Tommi knives. When the video came out, I realised my mistake and I changed the title but I couldn't remove it in the video without reuploading it. I was expecting this comment ;-)
I know, it's really hard to get some quality reindeer antlers or of a decent size. That's why I used an elk antler to do it but as you mentioned the middle part is porous. But I'm here to learn and I try to do better each time :)
I believe it is a very rude comment: anyway, if you cannot find reindeer antlers of right size (I have the same issue here), go for sambar deer antlers: nearly no marrow.
Just a quick disclaimer about the title in the beginning of the video.
This knife is not a Tommi puukko, I got confused by the name of the blade based on its diamond shape.
I just couldn't change the title without removing the video and reuploading it.
Thanks for your understanding :)
@Matsumoto Outo This is birch wood, the same one used for the handle
@Matsumoto Outo ah ! This is just to cover up the hole of the tang where I screwed the nut ;-)
@Gangster of love It's Switzerland and my blades are coming from Brisa ;-)
Fantastic job! What beautiful countryside at the end. I’m a fan of Scandinavian style knives. I’m half Norwegian and have several Norwegian, Finnish and Swedish knives in my collection. I have also bought Finnish blade blanks and made the hafts and sheaths myself. Thanks 🎸🔪
How you making a beautiful traditional puuko then threading the tang?.??!
Amazing very nice work😊
Beatiful knife sir! I lovet YP knife plates! Yrjö Puronvarsi is one of bests knife plate makers hi starts makes knifes year,1940! That YP,plates are old Finish style plates! maket old fasion ways!
I like how this turned out.
One of the best knifes I have seen been made. lovely workmanship would give me a lot of pleasure owning and using a knife of such quality.
Super
I am hoping you can build or buy a knife sander. Love the use of a hand belt sander though!!!
Very beautiful craftsmanship all the best to you and yours
Fantastic work both on the knife and sheath. Pleasure to watch you at work!
Great job!I've made puukkos and the Scandinavian style sheaths as well.I also make the wooden liner for the sheath.Yeah Tommi puukkos have a rhomboid blade shape.YP Taonta will be my next handmade knife(I buy knife blanks and add the handle like you do.I like Tommi blades.My latest handmade knife was a Helle Utvaer,made in Norway.I'm awaiting 10 ounce tooling leather to make the sheath for it.Thanks for the video
The YP Taonta are one of the best blades in my opinion, plus the forged look of it ads a lot to the charm.
Thanks to you
Equisit workmanship..... would be proud to own one.
Very fine work, thanks for sharing!
Very fine work!
Outstanding work. I like the hidden screw at the end of the tang. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great
Отлично мужик, лайк из России 👍👍👍👍👍.
Excelente que nombre tiene ese pegamento que aplicas
Excellent work but I'm not sure if the glue will last, especially if you will use this knife as it should be!
Interesting, what tells you that ?
Because i had the same feeling and i started to swith with epoxy glue
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss
It's just my experience with this type of glue. I tried so many different products but in the end none of them worked. They don't work in wet and cold conditions especially not with goods that will bend or are exposed to different forms of pressure.
The only type of glue that works is an industrial two component glue like epoxy or something like this in combination with a primer and a filler for bigger gaps.
You are right, I made a Leuku years ago and I used it to chop trees and stuff and the glue broke due to the pression on the handle. That's why on the last knife I made I started to use epoxy glue which seem to have more elasticity.
Thanks for sharing your experiences ;)
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss
This is one of the reasons why the nordic knife makers have used sliced birch bark or leather slices without glue as a handle material. they pressed it and then they fixed it with metal and a hammered tang. so the knife was comfortable, strong and flexible at the same time.
A glued handle without a fixation with screws or nails will not last.
Beautiful. Good job. 👍
Super schöne Arbeit 👍
Hi, I have two questions: do you work on dry or moistened leather ? (between 11:47 and 14:18), and second : makes it sens tu use brass on the handle? at the beginning if shiny, looks gorgeous but after few weeks in sheath it will react with leather and will get ugly, green residue
Hi, thanks for the comment.
The leather is slightly soaked into warm water and directly worked. I'm not an expert on leather working, I learn along the way, from my experiences and from what I see on online. There's surely a better way to do it ^^'
Traditionally on Finnish knives and scandinavian type of knife you often see brass for the guard/bolster. That's the reason I did it but also because I like the look of it and I accepted that a knife like this requires regular maintenance and care.
The way I see it, if your brass gets a bit old, or if you hit the wood of the handle, you can still sand it slightly, polish the brass and apply a new layer of linseed oil.
The other option would be to apply several layers of varnish which will seal the brass, the wood and the antlers. On the other side if you hit the handle the varnish will chip and you can not revarnish it and having something that looks neat and clean.
Basically it's a personnal choice, either you oil it and you know that you will have to take care of it and apply some oil some time to time or you can have something really neat with varnish but if you hit it it will age not so well.
Try German Silver vs brass
Hello excellent work with is that golden thing in the handle thanks for you answer
Hey, thanks for the comment.
It is brass sheet;-)
Are that antlers? If so they are huge
Yes it is. It comes from Elk (moose) that explain the size of it
What kind of bone do you use.? Yours seem to be solid all way through.. the ones I have available have some kind of porous material in the center..
It's actually moose(elk) antler, it's still porous but dense enough to work with ;-). The reindeer antler works perfect as well depending of the quality of it but regular deer antler is too porous.
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss that's probably the issue then.. living in Denmark, deer antler is the most common type, so that's what I got on hand
@@DaemonsBane It's the same problem here in Switzerland, that's why I order suplies in Finland, like on Brisa.fi
Its just about a puukko style, not Saami or finnish Saame puukko. Even if you are right, there are many different styles of blades handles and sheaths in Finland south, north, east, west- regions, villages and Maker to Maker. Look for: unna-niibas (small knife) and stuorra niibas (leuku, bigger knife) unna for small chores and leuku for big chores (all most axe) if leuku blade are about 10-17cm its just made for tourist
I can't figure out if you're a french or english speaker, so I'm going to speak in english. That's a beautiful job you've done here. What glue did you use ? Can you tell me a bit more about it ?
Merci pour le commentaire ! Nativement le français, mais j'ai beaucoup de peine à ne pas faire de fautes d'orthographe, c'est probablement pour ça ^^'.
C'est de la colle polyuréthane (PU ou PUR) des vernis très résistants en sont composés et on en fait de la mousse expansive également. Généralement c'est utilisé pour les travaux de menuiserie extérieur car elle est conçue pour résister aux intempéries contrairement à la colle blanche vinylique qui est solvable à l'eau.
Ce que j'aime bien aussi avec cette colle c'est qu'elle s'expanse légèrement en séchant,ça permet de combler les éventuels trous dans le manche.
Voilà j'espère avoir apporté des infos.
Bravo pour les 1000 abonnés ;-) c'est pas facile d'être consistant et de fournir un effort constant. Keep going !
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss pas de soucis pour les fautes d'orthographe, j'en fais entièrement aussi 😅
D'accord, et ça colle aussi le métal ? Ça peut se poncer, c'est suffisamment dur une fois sec ?
Merci beaucoup ! Je suis en train de regarder toutes les vidéos de ta chaîne, elles sont superbes, tu vis où ?
Oui ça peut coller le métal, ça se ponce mais c'est pas "plein" comme de la colle deux composants ou autres. Quand ça s'expanse ça fait des bulles et ça sèche.
Merci du compliment ! j'habite dans les alpes suisse
J aime beaucoup ce que vous faite. Merci
Merci à vous ;-)
Why do you use PU glue instead of epoxy? It is a kind of strange choice
Because the PU glue slightly expand itself when drying. You can increase this expansion by watering the parts (it sounds wrong said like that ).
My reasoning was that if my part adjustment wasn't perfect the glue would fill the gaps and maintain some resistance inside the handle. But now I'm slowly using Epoxy because it's way harder and it seems more durable.
0:31 c'est quoi comme matière s'il te plait ? beau boulot j'adore
Du bois d'élan ;-), Merci
Good knife
Tutto 'sto lavoro per fare un manico! Quando facevo coltelli, e facevo manici più elaborati di questo, con raspa, lima e carta vetrata di varie grane, ero più veloce ed esatto. NON adoperavo utensili meccanici. Comunque, bravi! Complimenti!👍💪☺️
Where do you by you blades ?is it ink ?
I get the Finnish ones on Brisa.fi or Lamnia.fi. They have a great selection of knives, blades, nordic materials like antler, curly birch, etc.
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss ok can i ask you where you live?you speak french?
@@cornelississelaar I live in Switzerland and oui
@@StevesWorkshopSwiss j'habite à côté de Marseille tu fais des super couteaux et j'ai du mal à trouver du cuir pour mes fourreaux. La déco sur le bois de renne c de l'encre
J'ai travaillé à plusieurs endroits en Suisse le français c plus facile pour moi si c'est 1 probleme pour toi j'essaierai en anglais
Bravo!
Качество и красота!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
ABLOSULT geile Arbeit....love this shit
👍🤝🤝🤝🤝
Wood jeweils knife
Ну ты мазохист. Пилить рог болгарской? Ещё тот экстрим. 😲
0:02 Tommi puukko means 1 type of traditional finnish knive, and that's not it.
You are right, it isn't a Tommi puukko nor exactly a traditional saami knife. I was inspired by the saami puukko to make this one, that's it. I know there's a lot of different variations between saami knives depending on the area.
I was confused in first place because the type of blade is a diamond shaped one, made especially for Tommi knives.
When the video came out, I realised my mistake and I changed the title but I couldn't remove it in the video without reuploading it.
I was expecting this comment ;-)
😀👍👍👍👌
Minunata
Salut je te mets que des likes de ton filleuls
Saami Leuku?!!🆗😉?
Not
Öö
Ruin a nice knife with a ugly marrow horn!
I know, it's really hard to get some quality reindeer antlers or of a decent size. That's why I used an elk antler to do it but as you mentioned the middle part is porous.
But I'm here to learn and I try to do better each time :)
I believe it is a very rude comment: anyway, if you cannot find reindeer antlers of right size (I have the same issue here), go for sambar deer antlers: nearly no marrow.
And, by the way, it is not horn (made of keratin like the nails, as for the cow), but antlers, made of bone