Hi Oliver, yes hopefully we will be getting back to more normal size surf more often, with at least a few big ones? Last few years have been very below average, with a few good ones less often..
As usual, the most satisfying surf videos on UA-cam. What a treat to watch some, save some for later. Excellent read of your audience to slo-mo replay that epic kickout. Thanks, Henry!
Hi tuskedbeast , thank you very much for such a nice comment! I don’t really have very good editing equipment so I try to keep it simple. Yes for sure that guy went flying! There are a few crunchers here and there. I’m sure if I slowed those down it would be amazing also. Then I would have a 10 hour video to upload ha ha..
@@henryssurfshowcase Precisely. Actually, I think a lot of people are "over" surfing slo mo, judging by comments. This one little bit is what I mean by reading the audience. Your stuff is great because it's not flashy, it's like a real surf check.
It’s tough trying to get a good day? So many factors like fog, wind, rain, tides,etc. Plus I have late night music related jobs. This swell was 2nd best for that summer 2021. Biggest was July but I missed it, very had to predict! Good news, looks like the La Niña cycle is breaking down and hopefully getting back to El Niño and a few good consistent years ahead?..
Hi Another World, you really know a lot about our Southern California beaches! I did not know about that aka improvement project? I can tell you the new Huntington Beach Pier since 1991 or so is nothing like the waves used to be! It took me a few years and seasons to figure that out. Basically those sideways pilings build up too much sand and make the waves close out through the pier. I also think the old T’s that were much wider are out of place now for the normal line up..
@@henryssurfshowcase Not every beach - but all of the important ones...I'd like to think... And quite a few in Central California, as well. But my expertise is much stronger South of Pt. Arguello, admittedly.
@@henryssurfshowcase And I must say that I really enjoy your videos and your Channel... Some of it even reminds me of the Poorman😉. I appreciate your kind hospitality. Keep up the great work.
My step dad was born in 1915 and was the entire chapter of Black Gold the history of the union hall of California. He was a young roustabout in the 30's when they built the first jetty. He said that when the tide was going south towards the wedge they would jump in the water by Long Beach and swim all the way down, then body surf. They drove home but what strong men they must have been!
The wave you're looking at @ 15:45 - is called "The Safety Wave" - for obvious reasons... Also, because I think that's where in some Lifeguard training programs, that's where they'll typically get a slide, for their "safety" lecture. It's not 100% unsurfable - but it's pretty close. I think I've seen a couple people go, back over there, over the decades - but nobody got anything worth those risks. Yeah, it tubes - but just inches from those gnarly exposures. And it almost always closes out, at some point. And then you're in a bad spot. If you've ever seen the footage of the wrong-way Jetskier, from 2016... He got into some real trouble back there. It sounds like you're out there, surfing, in the 1996 footage. Looks like a fun afternoon. Comparing the Jetty from then, to now, you can see that they widened the base, and thereby decreased the steepness of the slope, on the Jetty. Now more energy is lost on the rocks - and less feeds into the sidewave. The sidewave has become almost exclusively the province of skimboarders, since they can 'come in hot' - and skid past the soft spots in the line. It's most ridable in the early/off- season, when there's lots of sand packed over against the Jetty. You can see how much more 'slingshot effect' there was, in that older footage. And despite the wind being onshore, the shape was much better. You could get good shaped waves (lefts) at Wedge - out to about 205° degrees back then. Nowadays, I tend to write it off above 195°. Also - note all of the poles on the Jetty. They were perfect for gauging the size and approximate lineup. 3-5 poles was relatively smallish green-yellow flag stuff, usually. It looks to be mostly about that size, in the 1996 video.10 poles and above was almost always legitimate Red Flag and Freighttrains.
Another World that is great information! You know your wave breaks extremely well. Thank you very much for your knowledge posting here! Now I will look at that jetty more carefully and see the differences. Beefs TV on You Tube called that left off the Jetty “Chandeliers” in one of his videos I watched. I thought that was a great name for it as the sun reflection sparkles off the tubes lip. My board surfing The Wedge maybe over, but body surfing I can still have a great time out there with my Viper fins. I use to surf The Wedge often and had a few great rides. Some tubes to remember that I actually made it out of deep, but I have no video or pictures to show. If I was to do it again, I would not even waste my time going out there unless it was hitting that far outside peak. That is the pay off wave for board surfing I think with most reward. If it does not hit out there it’s most likely just a major close out anyway? I never mastered that side wave, only a very few slides into the peak. You are 100 percent right early season when sand is piled up on Jetty from winter west swells, then early first big south swells. It seems like it is most hollow early season also on those first big summer swells? And if you catch it on some of the last big summer swells late September or so when offshore winds come, that will hollow it out also..
@@henryssurfshowcase Yes. 💯. Early season there's not much sand in place for the outer peak, over by the Jetty. So it shifts in and over to the other side of the Lifeguard Tower, to "Brutals" and Cylinders - where it tends to explode violently, right on the beach. When there's a good run of swells, the sandbar can form, any time of year. Off-season is often the best season. The winds are more likely to be offshore or sheet glass, the crowds are usually minimal - and you can get surprise offseason South Swells, sometimes even with good size. When that all comes together, it's amazing. And you can ride however you like, all day. That outer peak by the Jetty likes a good sand pile + lower tides, and more steep angled Souths. Even SSE swells from a Hurricane or a Tierra Del Fuego swell from off of Chile - if it's big enough. That's the ideal situation. And usually, the peaks at Brutals and Cylinders get super surfable, as well. Kind of an "A" peak - "B" peak situation, with two separate lineups.
I have noticed much better surfers out there over the years really charging it hard! Especially at Cylinders, some of them seem so late on the drop and pull in so fast, super amazing under those dangerous circumstances with that kind of quick close out shape right on almost and sometimes dry sand!..
@@henryssurfshowcase Yeah. The shape has been ruined...but the pack only got thicker. In the 1990's I couldn't get any of my friends to come and surf it with me, on boards. "It's not surfable", "It's a closeout", "It's just a novelty", etc., etc.. And I'd frequently be the only guy on a surfboard, or with just one or two other surfers, scoring perfect slabs, with only a crew of bodyboarders to compete with, often. I didn't spend too much time arguing with anyone, about it. I just enjoyed great, relatively uncrowded waves, from the top of the food chain and the pecking order. Those sidewave barrels were like Horseshoes, and the peaks were like Big Rock or really heavy Blacks or Tarantulas - but, over sand. Now that it's been essentially destroyed, and those knocks on it have all been validated, after the fact - the spot is packed, wall-to-wall. I haven't ridden it standing-up for several years. I think I'll probably leave that to the next generation, unless the stars totally align. Lately I've taken to riding a sponge, and/or bodysurfing it mostly, in the pre-Blackball hours. In the 1980's and 90's I would almost never have considered doing that - and I would have taken an extra-ration of crap from the crew, for doing so. If it's IDEAL, I'll still paddle out on my Kneeboard, but I'm pretty discriminating, when it comes to the ones I'll go on. And that kind of shape is pretty rare, these days.
My favorite in summer is 52nd 54 and for sure 56 street when it’s on. The crowd is almost always packed at 56 when pumping. But if you get 1 wave in 2 hours there it’s better than anywhere else around. Good news 56 street is still super awesome, or at least it has been last few years. I don’t see why it is not going to pump again this summer year? I got some video of that big Code Red swell from Tahiti awhile back but it was not that big or good here in that day. I think 56 likes a straight south or hurricane southeast. It gets some current but it can swirl around nicely on the outside, just keep paddling. I like 56 a lot, that’s my favorite in summer. Good luck catching The Point, maybe twice a year?..
Great footage. About as friendly as it gets for wedge and cyllies at this size.
Wow💪🏻. Nice Video Henry. Looks like La Niña is finish now. West coast is getting bigger waves this year.
Hi Oliver, yes hopefully we will be getting back to more normal size surf more often, with at least a few big ones?
Last few years have been very below average, with a few good ones less often..
As usual, the most satisfying surf videos on UA-cam. What a treat to watch some, save some for later. Excellent read of your audience to slo-mo replay that epic kickout. Thanks, Henry!
Hi tuskedbeast , thank you very much for such a nice comment!
I don’t really have very good editing equipment so I try to keep it simple.
Yes for sure that guy went flying!
There are a few crunchers here and there. I’m sure if I slowed those down it would be amazing also.
Then I would have a 10 hour video to upload ha ha..
@@henryssurfshowcase Precisely. Actually, I think a lot of people are "over" surfing slo mo, judging by comments. This one little bit is what I mean by reading the audience. Your stuff is great because it's not flashy, it's like a real surf check.
It’s tough trying to get a good day? So many factors like fog, wind, rain, tides,etc. Plus I have late night music related jobs.
This swell was 2nd best for that summer 2021. Biggest was July but I missed it, very had to predict!
Good news, looks like the La Niña cycle is breaking down and hopefully getting back to El Niño and a few good consistent years ahead?..
Hey Henry! Terry V from F.V.
It's about f.cking time you posted some surf stuff.
Thanks again for sharing.
Aloha 🤙
Hi Terry, great to hear from you, thank you for stopping in!..
I've yet to watch it all...but you can instantly see how much better it was in '96 - before the ACE's "Jetty Improvement Project", or JIP.
Hi Another World, you really know a lot about our Southern California beaches!
I did not know about that aka improvement project?
I can tell you the new Huntington Beach Pier since 1991 or so is nothing like the waves used to be!
It took me a few years and seasons to figure that out.
Basically those sideways pilings build up too much sand and make the waves close out through the pier.
I also think the old T’s that were much wider are out of place now for the normal line up..
@@henryssurfshowcase Not every beach - but all of the important ones...I'd like to think... And quite a few in Central California, as well. But my expertise is much stronger South of Pt. Arguello, admittedly.
I very much appreciate your input knowledge Another World!
To me, this I find most interesting, thank you!..
@@henryssurfshowcase And I must say that I really enjoy your videos and your Channel... Some of it even reminds me of the Poorman😉. I appreciate your kind hospitality. Keep up the great work.
My step dad was born in 1915 and was the entire chapter of Black Gold the history of the union hall of California. He was a young roustabout in the 30's when they built the first jetty. He said that when the tide was going south towards the wedge they would jump in the water by Long Beach and swim all the way down, then body surf. They drove home but what strong men they must have been!
The wave you're looking at @ 15:45 - is called "The Safety Wave" - for obvious reasons... Also, because I think that's where in some Lifeguard training programs, that's where they'll typically get a slide, for their "safety" lecture.
It's not 100% unsurfable - but it's pretty close. I think I've seen a couple people go, back over there, over the decades - but nobody got anything worth those risks. Yeah, it tubes - but just inches from those gnarly exposures. And it almost always closes out, at some point. And then you're in a bad spot.
If you've ever seen the footage of the wrong-way Jetskier, from 2016... He got into some real trouble back there.
It sounds like you're out there, surfing, in the 1996 footage. Looks like a fun afternoon.
Comparing the Jetty from then, to now, you can see that they widened the base, and thereby decreased the steepness of the slope, on the Jetty. Now more energy is lost on the rocks - and less feeds into the sidewave.
The sidewave has become almost exclusively the province of skimboarders, since they can 'come in hot' - and skid past the soft spots in the line. It's most ridable in the early/off- season, when there's lots of sand packed over against the Jetty.
You can see how much more 'slingshot effect' there was, in that older footage. And despite the wind being onshore, the shape was much better. You could get good shaped waves (lefts) at Wedge - out to about 205° degrees back then. Nowadays, I tend to write it off above 195°.
Also - note all of the poles on the Jetty. They were perfect for gauging the size and approximate lineup. 3-5 poles was relatively smallish green-yellow flag stuff, usually. It looks to be mostly about that size, in the 1996 video.10 poles and above was almost always legitimate Red Flag and Freighttrains.
Another World that is great information! You know your wave breaks extremely well.
Thank you very much for your knowledge posting here!
Now I will look at that jetty more carefully and see the differences.
Beefs TV on You Tube called that left off the Jetty “Chandeliers” in one of his videos I watched. I thought that was a great name for it as the sun reflection sparkles off the tubes lip.
My board surfing The Wedge maybe over, but body surfing I can still have a great time out there with my Viper fins.
I use to surf The Wedge often and had a few great rides. Some tubes to remember that I actually made it out of deep, but I have no video or pictures to show.
If I was to do it again, I would not even waste my time going out there unless it was hitting that far outside peak.
That is the pay off wave for board surfing I think with most reward. If it does not hit out there it’s most likely just a major close out anyway?
I never mastered that side wave, only a very few slides into the peak. You are 100 percent right early season when sand is piled up on Jetty from winter west swells, then early first big south swells.
It seems like it is most hollow early season also on those first big summer swells?
And if you catch it on some of the last big summer swells late September or so when offshore winds come, that will hollow it out also..
@@henryssurfshowcase Yes. 💯. Early season there's not much sand in place for the outer peak, over by the Jetty. So it shifts in and over to the other side of the Lifeguard Tower, to "Brutals" and Cylinders - where it tends to explode violently, right on the beach.
When there's a good run of swells, the sandbar can form, any time of year. Off-season is often the best season. The winds are more likely to be offshore or sheet glass, the crowds are usually minimal - and you can get surprise offseason South Swells, sometimes even with good size. When that all comes together, it's amazing. And you can ride however you like, all day.
That outer peak by the Jetty likes a good sand pile + lower tides, and more steep angled Souths. Even SSE swells from a Hurricane or a Tierra Del Fuego swell from off of Chile - if it's big enough. That's the ideal situation. And usually, the peaks at Brutals and Cylinders get super surfable, as well. Kind of an "A" peak - "B" peak situation, with two separate lineups.
I have noticed much better surfers out there over the years really charging it hard!
Especially at Cylinders, some of them seem so late on the drop and pull in so fast, super amazing under those dangerous circumstances with that kind of quick close out shape right on almost and sometimes dry sand!..
@@henryssurfshowcase Yeah. The shape has been ruined...but the pack only got thicker.
In the 1990's I couldn't get any of my friends to come and surf it with me, on boards. "It's not surfable", "It's a closeout", "It's just a novelty", etc., etc.. And I'd frequently be the only guy on a surfboard, or with just one or two other surfers, scoring perfect slabs, with only a crew of bodyboarders to compete with, often. I didn't spend too much time arguing with anyone, about it. I just enjoyed great, relatively uncrowded waves, from the top of the food chain and the pecking order. Those sidewave barrels were like Horseshoes, and the peaks were like Big Rock or really heavy Blacks or Tarantulas - but, over sand.
Now that it's been essentially destroyed, and those knocks on it have all been validated, after the fact - the spot is packed, wall-to-wall. I haven't ridden it standing-up for several years. I think I'll probably leave that to the next generation, unless the stars totally align. Lately I've taken to riding a sponge, and/or bodysurfing it mostly, in the pre-Blackball hours. In the 1980's and 90's I would almost never have considered doing that - and I would have taken an extra-ration of crap from the crew, for doing so.
If it's IDEAL, I'll still paddle out on my Kneeboard, but I'm pretty discriminating, when it comes to the ones I'll go on. And that kind of shape is pretty rare, these days.
My favorite in summer is 52nd 54 and for sure 56 street when it’s on.
The crowd is almost always packed at 56 when pumping.
But if you get 1 wave in 2 hours there it’s better than anywhere else around.
Good news 56 street is still super awesome, or at least it has been last few years. I don’t see why it is not going to pump again this summer year?
I got some video of that big Code Red swell from Tahiti awhile back but it was not that big or good here in that day.
I think 56 likes a straight south or hurricane southeast.
It gets some current but it can swirl around nicely on the outside, just keep paddling.
I like 56 a lot, that’s my favorite in summer.
Good luck catching The Point, maybe twice a year?..