I've just finished knocking the wall out from under our stairs and framing the cavity, and a video like this is exactly what I was looking for for the next step - thanks loads :) I was initially thinking about using straight running castors for the pull-outs because I thought rails wouldn't take the weight, but this seems to work brilliantly.
hope your v2 improves on v1 :) Runners work fine, but they are heavy duty. The big one at the end is probably too heavy and should've used bigger runners really. But it is made out of 18mm MFC which isn't exactly light!
@@Ryan_DYD I'm going to be making ours out of a mix of PSE and ply, since we're after a framed door look for the fascias. That should make the fascias lighter too, since the main body of them is probs 10mm ply. I was planning on using knobs too, but those spring-loaded pushers are even better.
Thank you for sharing this. Have been looking at a few other examples as am looking at doing something similar under my stairs and your video popped up as a recommendation. Great work.
Nicely done and just what I was looking for. Thank you so much. I knew I wanted to build (more or less exactly) this but was scratching my head as to how to build the superstructure that would hold the caddies. I had originally thought of simply mounting them on fixed castor wheels but was concerned that any unevenness in the floor could cause snags. Just seeing photos of your floor frame has inspired me! One thing I would say is that I actually prefer MDF to MFC for it's superior stability and ability to simply screw together. I notice you used dowels with the chipboard and you had these offcuts anyway, so that works for you and that's great. I just prefer MDF for it's stability over time but as long as your stairwell is dry then this should last years and years. Well done and thanks again for sharing your project.
Fair point - MDF would be totally fine. Mine is totally over engineered lol. The MFC (18mm) is total overkill - but I had an easy source for correct size pre-edged. MDF would require different fixing methods, but yep - the "pro" one our friends had made was 100% MDF (CNCd)
Great video and explanation! I'm planning to do this as well and really appreciate the thorough review which is a great help for thinking about how to do it in my case. Thanks so much!
Glad the video is useful, and thanks for taking the time to comment. Its always appreciated to know its been helpful! Enjoy the project, and just if you do a cupboard as big as my biggest, get heavier duty runners - I feel I may need to upgrade them at somepoint
Awesome, just what I needed! Got a spacez albeit smaller, under my stairs and am hoping to build just a single pull out shelf for tools and maybe some shoes.
Some friends had some pro-made ones that were smaller and included a shoe rack but can't find the company. If you are going smaller (and looking at theirs) you can really go smaller and lighter! Ours is very over engineered lol. Good luck
fantastic vid, just what I have been looking for, have an elcove in my spare room /office, about 1 meter deep 430 wide and 2meters high, wanted to put I slide out cupboard in it, looking for inspiration and found it, can see exactly what I need to do now, thank you
Thanks, glad it helped. All still in use and very useful indeed! I would say use the heaviest duty runners you can - our big cupboard weighs a load so could've done with heavier duty. Next time :)
Great work. looking to do this in my 1930s semi too and struggling for inspiration until I found this. Really impressive and very slick and clean. Particularly useful to hear about the pitfalls you encountered so will try to ensure that it's well braced at the back as you mentioned (i wouldn't have thought of that so very useful to see!). thanks again. Maybe I'll post a video of my own efforts... ;)
Good luck! Rear bracing important (stopping see-saw) - and also if you are going as big as me, use higher rated runners on the biggest unit. 60kg OK on the smaller 2, biggest really needs >100kg
Wow. Well done. Class video mate. Very inspiring. So had ago myself. Kept using you for advice but well pleased with end product. You should be on the telly. Many thanx 👍
Thanks! Makes me feel good! (or you don't know any skilled men lol!). I guess skill also = quicker and neater and not just finish. But many thanks for comment
Wonder if it would be possible to get a list of materials used e.g type and thickness of wood used for door and carcass... type and thickness of wood for frame etc and finally maybe a drawing or sketch or plan for storage unit. Also idea on cost to make it. .. approximately. . Sorry for so many questions but I'm planning to make. . (Fingers crossed).
Hi. No plans or sketch as (a) everyones stairs are different, and (b) I blagged it and did it on the fly without any paper plans. The frame is 3x2 (68x44), the white unit frame is 18mm MFC - but I think this is far too thick and strong (and heavy). You could go 12 or 15mm. And the front MDF manel is 12mm MDF. As for cost, no idea, it was part of the bigger hall project and it cost what it cost. The 3x2 is cheap - look at B&Q website for rough prices, but I bought from buildbase. The MFC I got made/pre-cut when I did my kitchen the previous year (as they will supply MFC to your sizes and edged when you order a kitchen) - but unless you are buying a kitchen you'll need to look at B&Q and the like. Sorry but that's all I can say :(
@@Ryan_DYD thanks a lot Ryan. Very useful info there. Could I ask roughly how far apart you've put the virtical studs.. ( just as an idea of how wide draws you've got.. they look a good size.. I don't want to end up with something too big or small.. thanks alot and sorry to trouble!
Sorry, only just seen this - I didn't get notified :( The verticals are 500mm centres apart. the drawer bases are 440 wide + 18 + 18 for each side upright
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
Great video I'm nearly done with mine just fronts to make I copied the same system as you with 100kg runners.... How does the large cuboard get on over time? I'm asking because I've used 18mm mdf so it's quite heavy but I've stood on it when fully open and it didn't collapse 🤣. I'm thinking about limiting the opening length as the big cuboard is only for coats and more shoes. Thanks
Hi we're what, 4-5 years in? All looks as new :) the MFC is probably as heavy as MDF, my "doors" are MDF. The large one has always been "over heavy" and I would change the runners - but it still works albeit not coming out swiftly when pressed, and sometimes you have to grab it. We only use it for light stuff (spare loo roll, breakfast cereal etc) and its OK - and okay enough not to bother swapping the runners. But yeah, is v heavy!!!
Thanks. The heavy duty runners I used do the job, but probably could do with heavier duty ones or the big unit at the end - which is vvvvv heavy. the smaller uints fine . the length of runner will depend on the depth of your drawer
Great video, I am hoping to attempt a similar installation soon - wondered how the uprights are installed simply attached to the stairs ? Currently have plaster board under my stairs and hoping to avoid ripping it off but think it may be a necessity unless I build a new angular frame (not sure this makes sense ..)
The front uprights are screwed "up" via pocket-hole method into the stairs themselves. the bottom is "free" - but the battens between the uprights is screwed into the floor and that is then screwed into the bottom of the uprights (pockethole) - and hence the upright is solid. The front uprights don't actually do much - there is no twist - all the weight is on the very low rail. The biggest loading is the rear where (when open) the rear will try and pull up - hence bolting a frame to the wall. the front uprights aren't under any strain (beyond taking the weight directly downward). Hope this helps
Good job you could have maby fitted some wheels to the front To support the weight of the sliding draw . And have cut outs for the wheels to slip into flush
Yep, nice idea and did (briefly ) consider that and have the skirting trim cover it up. But didn't want to mark the new floor :) If the biggest pullout was in more heavy use, certainly something to consider (or get some higher rated sliders - the frame/support can easily take it
I just finished similar project and I have fitted support wheels which come in contact with the floor surface only in case of overloading - I had a vision of my kids climbing on the drawers ;-)
Was trying to find something exactly like this. I only have 5 treads to deal with so was looking for a pull out shoe rack solution. I only have to cut out the plaster on the timber frame already in place. Thanks.
Hi Ryan, love the cupboard, great job! I know this has been answered several times already but the amazon link has expired for the runners - would it be possible to either post a new link or advise of supplier please? Thanks!
Hi - I searched and found amzn.to/3h0nTnT and Amazon kindly said I purchased it in December 2017 - so that must be it! I would say this is fine for the 2 smaller cupboards, but my biggest one is HUGE and the runner struggles. But for most houses you'd be OK (We just use light stuff in there). In hindsight I'd pay mega bucks for a much bigger runner. (Remember mine are made out of 18mm MFC (overkill) 12mm MDF front, and my stairs are steep (non compliant with regs due to being an old house) and my ceilings are high)
Hi Ryan. Just watched your video and we love the cupboard.. Great job! I see this chap asked for the link previously to the runners that you used.. But unfortunately the link isn't working. I don't suppose you can cast your mind back and remember the name of the company you got the drawer runners from, can you? Kat 😁
Thanks. I'd not use our dimensions as stairs are unique and ours, being 1930s era don't comply with any modern regs. However, the front of the doors are 505mm wide. Height of edges, roughly 380, 930, 1490, 2050. The internal shelves are 440 wide (with 18mm thick sides) - so 476 total. Hope that gives some idea?
Excellent job. I'm starting something similar. There's two wooden struts / posts underneath the string of my stairs, and I'm wondering if they're essential structural components to keep the edge side of the stairs in place, or whether they're used, as far as I can currently see, to allow the plasterboard to be nailed into them. Do you have any ideas?
Hi. lol - don't ask me :) I knocked the wall down and hoped :) My wall didn't touch the string. Your uprights may be there to stop stair wobble - so may well be structural. - but equally may be there for your plasterboard. Are they the same age? Would it be easy to remove and replace if needed?
@@Ryan_DYD Thanks for replying. I removed them a few days ago. I realised they weren't attached to the main stairs -- there's two separate sturdy support frames underneath the curve of the stairs that are doing that particular job -- and were actually as I originally guessed for the purposes of being a backing for the skirting and plasterboard. IF they were somehow essential I'm sure I can attach a couple of steel poles into the wooden support frame. I hope I never find out the hard way, lol.
Nice job, well done 👍 would you be able please let me know where did you bought extension runners of that length. I looked online most of them a very short.. Thanks in advance. And all the best in the future.
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
Hi, it was these amzn.to/2G52Dwp - I think they are fine for the smaller two pull outs, but a bit under rated for the massive end one. But don't forget how heavy I made the units - they weigh loads!!! So the end one we only keep light stuff in and put it at the back. If they break or I get round to it, I'd get some bigger ones for the end unit only.
Ryan used your ideas and been making my understair storage.. has been brilliant so far.. thanks a lot.! needed a bit of help. Which hinges have you used for the little corner drawer? Also do you think I could do this using 12 maybe 15mm ply instead of mfc? Thanks and sorry to bother you.
Hi, toolstation easy-fix 90' sprung hinges. the MFC is 100% level/straight, so good ply sure. B&Q 12mmp ply that wobbles, probably not. (My MFC is 18mm)
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
400w is all that is important (plus 18mm sides + gaps + uprights). height and depth will vary on your stairs. Ours are 700 deep and height varies, our stairs are steep and the ceilings high (old 1930s place non compliant with any modern building regs)
Hi, it was a few years ago now and prices have gone up massively this year - I would struggle to guess. Also the furniture board I sneaked in on an order for my kitchen (and in hindsight, 18mm is probably overkill). As all comparable setups would be different sizes too, you'd really need to measure, think, and design it and sort a materials list and price it up. Sorry I can't help more :(
I am puzzled as to where your meters are? In my house (also a 1930s semi) , they are under the stairs along with the main electricity distribution box.
The gas meter is outside the front door (must be new ish, it is plastic pipe to it, so guess in last 20 yrs. House used to be fires then coal boiler!). Electric meter is in the kitchen above the back door (see kitchen vid)
Not 100%, as the item number is not available, but try www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=10PCS+Cabinet+Latch+Door+Drawer+Push+To+Open+System+Damper+Buffer+Catch+Kits+&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=263069112528 - it looks the same as these. Good luck
Do you have a plan with step by step, measurements, and materials? I'm trying to do something like this under my stairs, but I need just a bit more instruction.
Nope. I wing it. Every installation will be different so wouldn't help really anyway. The framework is 3x2 studwork, the carcass is 18mm MFC board, and the front is 12mm MDF. But sizes and details will be unique to you. Happy to try and clarify any specific question, but there was no plan.... (!)
The shelf "units" are only held on by the runners, yes. Heavy duty runners. All working perfectly but the big unit at end is too heavy for the runners and only has light stuff in. Other units have heavy tools etc and are fine.
lol. Its OK :) the load is taken up by the wall batton - thats over engineered and takes the strain, So no problem. The only change I'd make after 5y is the biggest cupboard could do with heavier duty runners. Rest are fine. Biggest is fine with light storage but if full of heavy stuff it can struggle. The 18mcf is *heavy* lol
I've just finished knocking the wall out from under our stairs and framing the cavity, and a video like this is exactly what I was looking for for the next step - thanks loads :) I was initially thinking about using straight running castors for the pull-outs because I thought rails wouldn't take the weight, but this seems to work brilliantly.
hope your v2 improves on v1 :) Runners work fine, but they are heavy duty. The big one at the end is probably too heavy and should've used bigger runners really. But it is made out of 18mm MFC which isn't exactly light!
@@Ryan_DYD I'm going to be making ours out of a mix of PSE and ply, since we're after a framed door look for the fascias. That should make the fascias lighter too, since the main body of them is probs 10mm ply. I was planning on using knobs too, but those spring-loaded pushers are even better.
Thank you for sharing this. Have been looking at a few other examples as am looking at doing something similar under my stairs and your video popped up as a recommendation. Great work.
Good luck! Had we not seen a friends "pro" version we'd not have thought about it doing it this way. Glad the idea helps
Nicely done and just what I was looking for. Thank you so much. I knew I wanted to build (more or less exactly) this but was scratching my head as to how to build the superstructure that would hold the caddies. I had originally thought of simply mounting them on fixed castor wheels but was concerned that any unevenness in the floor could cause snags. Just seeing photos of your floor frame has inspired me! One thing I would say is that I actually prefer MDF to MFC for it's superior stability and ability to simply screw together. I notice you used dowels with the chipboard and you had these offcuts anyway, so that works for you and that's great. I just prefer MDF for it's stability over time but as long as your stairwell is dry then this should last years and years. Well done and thanks again for sharing your project.
Fair point - MDF would be totally fine. Mine is totally over engineered lol. The MFC (18mm) is total overkill - but I had an easy source for correct size pre-edged. MDF would require different fixing methods, but yep - the "pro" one our friends had made was 100% MDF (CNCd)
Thanks very much for a really helpful vid. Gave me the confidence to give it a go myself and I'm really pleased with the outcome.
Glad it helped!
Great job.Well done.
Thank you! Cheers!
I am ready to put this under my stairs. Instructions will help me tremendously.
Hope the video helps. Each install will be unique and no instructions I'm afraid but these do still work really well. Good luck with your project
Nice job this is what I am planning on doing this year when I have the under stairs converted to small toilet and space form vacuum cleaner and shoes
Pull out loo? :)
Great video and explanation! I'm planning to do this as well and really appreciate the thorough review which is a great help for thinking about how to do it in my case. Thanks so much!
Glad the video is useful, and thanks for taking the time to comment. Its always appreciated to know its been helpful! Enjoy the project, and just if you do a cupboard as big as my biggest, get heavier duty runners - I feel I may need to upgrade them at somepoint
Thanks so much. This is also what I am planning to do. I can show people exactly what I want.
Awesome, just what I needed! Got a spacez albeit smaller, under my stairs and am hoping to build just a single pull out shelf for tools and maybe some shoes.
Some friends had some pro-made ones that were smaller and included a shoe rack but can't find the company. If you are going smaller (and looking at theirs) you can really go smaller and lighter! Ours is very over engineered lol. Good luck
Ryan I prefer over engineered. Built to last!
fantastic vid, just what I have been looking for, have an elcove in my spare room /office, about 1 meter deep 430 wide and 2meters high, wanted to put I slide out cupboard in it, looking for inspiration and found it, can see exactly what I need to do now, thank you
Thanks, glad it helped. All still in use and very useful indeed! I would say use the heaviest duty runners you can - our big cupboard weighs a load so could've done with heavier duty. Next time :)
for a DIy person is great enjoyed the video.
Great work. looking to do this in my 1930s semi too and struggling for inspiration until I found this. Really impressive and very slick and clean. Particularly useful to hear about the pitfalls you encountered so will try to ensure that it's well braced at the back as you mentioned (i wouldn't have thought of that so very useful to see!).
thanks again. Maybe I'll post a video of my own efforts... ;)
Good luck! Rear bracing important (stopping see-saw) - and also if you are going as big as me, use higher rated runners on the biggest unit. 60kg OK on the smaller 2, biggest really needs >100kg
Wow. Thanks. That's a lot of support but better safe than sorry. Cheers.
Wow. Well done. Class video mate. Very inspiring. So had ago myself. Kept using you for advice but well pleased with end product. You should be on the telly. Many thanx 👍
Brilliant to hear! I use the internet for ideas and advice, so nice that I can return the favour!
Thank you so much for this! You are a legend for sharing this
You're very welcome!
Brilliant video thank you! You did a wonderful job :)
thanks! it's holding up very well. but if you do similar get heavier duty runners for the big cupboard
I really want something like this for my attic room but it seems like such a difficult task
Nice video thanks, I'm prob half way through mine. Just used your photos as a reference 😉
Cool - luck and hope its useful!
Loving the ideas and your effort. Well done mate.
Cheers!
Nice job Ryan, thanks for sharing
Thanks, hope there are some ideas for you to steal!
Amazing ideas! Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
You're welcome
Im a builder and thats as good as some of the joiners i know
Thanks! Makes me feel good! (or you don't know any skilled men lol!). I guess skill also = quicker and neater and not just finish. But many thanks for comment
Brilliant. . very impressive!!
Great summary! Thank You
Glad it was helpful!
Great idea
Wonder if it would be possible to get a list of materials used e.g type and thickness of wood used for door and carcass... type and thickness of wood for frame etc and finally maybe a drawing or sketch or plan for storage unit.
Also idea on cost to make it. .. approximately. .
Sorry for so many questions but I'm planning to make. . (Fingers crossed).
Hi. No plans or sketch as (a) everyones stairs are different, and (b) I blagged it and did it on the fly without any paper plans. The frame is 3x2 (68x44), the white unit frame is 18mm MFC - but I think this is far too thick and strong (and heavy). You could go 12 or 15mm. And the front MDF manel is 12mm MDF. As for cost, no idea, it was part of the bigger hall project and it cost what it cost. The 3x2 is cheap - look at B&Q website for rough prices, but I bought from buildbase. The MFC I got made/pre-cut when I did my kitchen the previous year (as they will supply MFC to your sizes and edged when you order a kitchen) - but unless you are buying a kitchen you'll need to look at B&Q and the like. Sorry but that's all I can say :(
@@Ryan_DYD thanks a lot Ryan. Very useful info there.
Could I ask roughly how far apart you've put the virtical studs.. ( just as an idea of how wide draws you've got.. they look a good size.. I don't want to end up with something too big or small.. thanks alot and sorry to trouble!
Sorry, only just seen this - I didn't get notified :( The verticals are 500mm centres apart. the drawer bases are 440 wide + 18 + 18 for each side upright
Nice job! Can I ask where you got the runners from and what size? a link or product ID would be really helpful Cheers and thanks for the video!
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
Great video I'm nearly done with mine just fronts to make I copied the same system as you with 100kg runners.... How does the large cuboard get on over time? I'm asking because I've used 18mm mdf so it's quite heavy but I've stood on it when fully open and it didn't collapse 🤣. I'm thinking about limiting the opening length as the big cuboard is only for coats and more shoes. Thanks
Hi we're what, 4-5 years in? All looks as new :) the MFC is probably as heavy as MDF, my "doors" are MDF. The large one has always been "over heavy" and I would change the runners - but it still works albeit not coming out swiftly when pressed, and sometimes you have to grab it. We only use it for light stuff (spare loo roll, breakfast cereal etc) and its OK - and okay enough not to bother swapping the runners. But yeah, is v heavy!!!
Really nice job 👏 ! What you think the 600mm drawer runners will do the job? Thanks
Thanks. The heavy duty runners I used do the job, but probably could do with heavier duty ones or the big unit at the end - which is vvvvv heavy. the smaller uints fine . the length of runner will depend on the depth of your drawer
Great video, I am hoping to attempt a similar installation soon - wondered how the uprights are installed simply attached to the stairs ? Currently have plaster board under my stairs and hoping to avoid ripping it off but think it may be a necessity unless I build a new angular frame (not sure this makes sense ..)
The front uprights are screwed "up" via pocket-hole method into the stairs themselves. the bottom is "free" - but the battens between the uprights is screwed into the floor and that is then screwed into the bottom of the uprights (pockethole) - and hence the upright is solid. The front uprights don't actually do much - there is no twist - all the weight is on the very low rail. The biggest loading is the rear where (when open) the rear will try and pull up - hence bolting a frame to the wall. the front uprights aren't under any strain (beyond taking the weight directly downward). Hope this helps
Good job you could have maby fitted some wheels to the front To support the weight of the sliding draw .
And have cut outs for the wheels to slip into flush
Yep, nice idea and did (briefly ) consider that and have the skirting trim cover it up. But didn't want to mark the new floor :) If the biggest pullout was in more heavy use, certainly something to consider (or get some higher rated sliders - the frame/support can easily take it
Ryan fair point ,over time I suppose it would just leave track marks
I just finished similar project and I have fitted support wheels which come in contact with the floor surface only in case of overloading - I had a vision of my kids climbing on the drawers ;-)
Was trying to find something exactly like this. I only have 5 treads to deal with so was looking for a pull out shoe rack solution. I only have to cut out the plaster on the timber frame already in place. Thanks.
Yep, you should be able to do that :)
Hi Ryan, love the cupboard, great job! I know this has been answered several times already but the amazon link has expired for the runners - would it be possible to either post a new link or advise of supplier please? Thanks!
Hi - I searched and found amzn.to/3h0nTnT and Amazon kindly said I purchased it in December 2017 - so that must be it! I would say this is fine for the 2 smaller cupboards, but my biggest one is HUGE and the runner struggles. But for most houses you'd be OK (We just use light stuff in there). In hindsight I'd pay mega bucks for a much bigger runner. (Remember mine are made out of 18mm MFC (overkill) 12mm MDF front, and my stairs are steep (non compliant with regs due to being an old house) and my ceilings are high)
Hi Ryan. Just watched your video and we love the cupboard.. Great job! I see this chap asked for the link previously to the runners that you used.. But unfortunately the link isn't working. I don't suppose you can cast your mind back and remember the name of the company you got the drawer runners from, can you? Kat 😁
Great work! Looking to do this myself! What are the widths of your doors?
Thanks. I'd not use our dimensions as stairs are unique and ours, being 1930s era don't comply with any modern regs. However, the front of the doors are 505mm wide. Height of edges, roughly 380, 930, 1490, 2050. The internal shelves are 440 wide (with 18mm thick sides) - so 476 total. Hope that gives some idea?
Thank you very much!
Excellent job. I'm starting something similar. There's two wooden struts / posts underneath the string of my stairs, and I'm wondering if they're essential structural components to keep the edge side of the stairs in place, or whether they're used, as far as I can currently see, to allow the plasterboard to be nailed into them. Do you have any ideas?
Hi. lol - don't ask me :) I knocked the wall down and hoped :) My wall didn't touch the string. Your uprights may be there to stop stair wobble - so may well be structural. - but equally may be there for your plasterboard. Are they the same age? Would it be easy to remove and replace if needed?
@@Ryan_DYD Thanks for replying. I removed them a few days ago. I realised they weren't attached to the main stairs -- there's two separate sturdy support frames underneath the curve of the stairs that are doing that particular job -- and were actually as I originally guessed for the purposes of being a backing for the skirting and plasterboard. IF they were somehow essential I'm sure I can attach a couple of steel poles into the wooden support frame. I hope I never find out the hard way, lol.
Nice job, well done 👍 would you be able please let me know where did you bought extension runners of that length. I looked online most of them a very short.. Thanks in advance. And all the best in the future.
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
Thank you so much 😊👍
Thanks for the info - concice without rambling - thanks
No one has ever said that about me before!!!!!!!!!!!!
Exactly! Perfecto
Hi bud, great work. What was the length of the draw runners and the weight capacity? CAn you share a link to where you got them from?
Hi, it was these amzn.to/2G52Dwp - I think they are fine for the smaller two pull outs, but a bit under rated for the massive end one. But don't forget how heavy I made the units - they weigh loads!!! So the end one we only keep light stuff in and put it at the back. If they break or I get round to it, I'd get some bigger ones for the end unit only.
Ryan used your ideas and been making my understair storage.. has been brilliant so far.. thanks a lot.!
needed a bit of help. Which hinges have you used for the little corner drawer?
Also do you think I could do this using 12 maybe 15mm ply instead of mfc?
Thanks and sorry to bother you.
Hi, toolstation easy-fix 90' sprung hinges. the MFC is 100% level/straight, so good ply sure. B&Q 12mmp ply that wobbles, probably not. (My MFC is 18mm)
brilliant,could you tell me what the runners are. I need these done.
Thanks. I used these amzn.to/2HVzNhQ - 700mm full extension. These were the best value for 60kg (some were 45kg) rated. In hindsight, they are fine for the 2x smaller ones, the bigger unit as you can see is HUGE and the wood I've used heavy, so maybe for that one a higher rated runner would be better. Cheers
Looks fab... what are the sizes of each compartment
I'm looking at making this too, so any help will be appreciated
400w is all that is important (plus 18mm sides + gaps + uprights). height and depth will vary on your stairs. Ours are 700 deep and height varies, our stairs are steep and the ceilings high (old 1930s place non compliant with any modern building regs)
@@Ryan_DYD thank you
Hi
Looks great, I’ve wanted this for so long in my home.
Do you know roughly how much the materials cost.
Hi, it was a few years ago now and prices have gone up massively this year - I would struggle to guess. Also the furniture board I sneaked in on an order for my kitchen (and in hindsight, 18mm is probably overkill). As all comparable setups would be different sizes too, you'd really need to measure, think, and design it and sort a materials list and price it up. Sorry I can't help more :(
I am puzzled as to where your meters are? In my house (also a 1930s semi)
, they are under the stairs along with the main electricity distribution box.
The gas meter is outside the front door (must be new ish, it is plastic pipe to it, so guess in last 20 yrs. House used to be fires then coal boiler!). Electric meter is in the kitchen above the back door (see kitchen vid)
Are the drawers base on 3x2 or 4x2?
3x2
Hello, would it be possible to attach a link for the push spring catch you used at the top of the cupboard please? Thank you
Not 100%, as the item number is not available, but try www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=10PCS+Cabinet+Latch+Door+Drawer+Push+To+Open+System+Damper+Buffer+Catch+Kits+&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=263069112528 - it looks the same as these. Good luck
@@Ryan_DYD much appreciated
Do you have a plan with step by step, measurements, and materials? I'm trying to do something like this under my stairs, but I need just a bit more instruction.
Nope. I wing it. Every installation will be different so wouldn't help really anyway. The framework is 3x2 studwork, the carcass is 18mm MFC board, and the front is 12mm MDF. But sizes and details will be unique to you. Happy to try and clarify any specific question, but there was no plan.... (!)
Hi, could you tell me what size timber you used to attach to the drawer runners (the timber the drawer actually sits on)? Thanks
3x2's (the horizontal timber at the bottom, which the drawer runners are attached to, at both the "structure" and the drawer unit)
@@Ryan_DYD thanks 👍
Neat
Hi
Is the shelving only held on the bottom?
The shelf "units" are only held on by the runners, yes. Heavy duty runners. All working perfectly but the big unit at end is too heavy for the runners and only has light stuff in. Other units have heavy tools etc and are fine.
Ryan cheers... hope mine turns out as well........
@@tingo101 good luck!
so you shouldnt pull out all 3 at the same time when loaded
lol. Its OK :) the load is taken up by the wall batton - thats over engineered and takes the strain, So no problem. The only change I'd make after 5y is the biggest cupboard could do with heavier duty runners. Rest are fine. Biggest is fine with light storage but if full of heavy stuff it can struggle. The 18mcf is *heavy* lol
Glass nae video
bang tidy great copied idea
Copy away :) Version 2.x will always be better, so share any improvements! Not that I'm going to change anything now lol!