great stuff , keep the vids comming, love the quality control, i would have filled the pull outs with body filler, LOL, this will take years which is great, take your time, i will be watching!
Useful idea, I had to Google that :-) I found both moulding wax and mould release wax. I'm picking it's mould release wax you're referring to? I would have to test it with the varnish I intend to use, my experience with wax (but obviously not this wax) suggests it may transfer to the timber.
Wax paper I used to use when I was building radio control airplane wings. Plans on table then wax paper then part glued. The glue would not stick to building board. Same results you would get if you can apply wax paper to your rib jig. You would eliminate where rib piece gets glued to your jig
Hi bruce, I've thought about that and might yet come back to it. Difficulties include having to wax paper around the two spars and nose piece. Plus I have glued lugs on this jig (which could come off now). These aren't insurmountable difficulties, but over the next few weeks I'll explore screwing the cap strips into place and glueing them later in bulk.
Great video! Sorry for the set back but the new plan sounds a lot better. Wonder if they used weights or straps to add clamping pressure to ensure proper glue up? Not sure if it is needed just wondering.
Hi Kevin, good question. Also not sure but my preference is to see more clamping points to get the pressure more evenly distributed. The screws alone are a bit far apart for my liking. No solution yet, but I've got time to think on it and create one.
Thin plastic sheeting can also mask the bottom of the jig and constrain glue quite well. What engine do you plan to use for this? Are you aware of Classic Aero Machining Services' rotary engines at Blenheim? I'm aware that's a long way off! Enjoying your videos as I have to construct a Camel in a year or two from a half-made kit I acquired. Also using Replicraft plans and have some extra ones you may need in due course...
Hi Andrew, when it comes time, if you start posting progress videos, let me know the link :-) Definitely a long way off needing a motor and I suspect he will be retired before I'm ready! My original plan was to purchase a lathe and start with the engine. I have plans for a 1/3rd scale engine that will eventually be a useful project to gain skills. Those initial plans changed when I found unexpectedly found Spruce in NZ. Happy to chat about Sopwith drawings. Find me on theareodrome.com - Kiwi Camel Project.
great stuff , keep the vids comming, love the quality control, i would have filled the pull outs with body filler, LOL, this will take years which is great, take your time, i will be watching!
lol, I used body filler in my first rib jig, we are old friends and yep, I'm not in a hurry! Big thanks for the encouragement :-)
Using moulding wax on the jig would avoid the ribs gluing to the jig.
Useful idea, I had to Google that :-) I found both moulding wax and mould release wax. I'm picking it's mould release wax you're referring to?
I would have to test it with the varnish I intend to use, my experience with wax (but obviously not this wax) suggests it may transfer to the timber.
@@MattProject Yes that's right - mould release wax is the thing to use. Rub the wax in and buff it when dry. repeat at least once.
I'll give it a go :-)
Wax paper I used to use when I was building radio control airplane wings. Plans on table then wax paper then part glued. The glue would not stick to building board. Same results you would get if you can apply wax paper to your rib jig. You would eliminate where rib piece gets glued to your jig
Hi bruce, I've thought about that and might yet come back to it. Difficulties include having to wax paper around the two spars and nose piece. Plus I have glued lugs on this jig (which could come off now). These aren't insurmountable difficulties, but over the next few weeks I'll explore screwing the cap strips into place and glueing them later in bulk.
@@MattProject lay the wax paper FLAT out on build surface. You may have to cut WP in strips.
Thanks Bruce :-)
Great video! Sorry for the set back but the new plan sounds a lot better. Wonder if they used weights or straps to add clamping pressure to ensure proper glue up? Not sure if it is needed just wondering.
Hi Kevin, good question. Also not sure but my preference is to see more clamping points to get the pressure more evenly distributed. The screws alone are a bit far apart for my liking. No solution yet, but I've got time to think on it and create one.
Thin plastic sheeting can also mask the bottom of the jig and constrain glue quite well. What engine do you plan to use for this? Are you aware of Classic Aero Machining Services' rotary engines at Blenheim? I'm aware that's a long way off! Enjoying your videos as I have to construct a Camel in a year or two from a half-made kit I acquired. Also using Replicraft plans and have some extra ones you may need in due course...
Hi Andrew, when it comes time, if you start posting progress videos, let me know the link :-)
Definitely a long way off needing a motor and I suspect he will be retired before I'm ready! My original plan was to purchase a lathe and start with the engine. I have plans for a 1/3rd scale engine that will eventually be a useful project to gain skills. Those initial plans changed when I found unexpectedly found Spruce in NZ.
Happy to chat about Sopwith drawings. Find me on theareodrome.com - Kiwi Camel Project.