lmao you don't have to worry about that, I've tried this on my MIM Strat and it works like a charm. The strings on electric are thinner and easier to break and yet it still worked fine :)
As a blacksmith i recommend forge welding your strings to your nuts so they get a nice seal you can additional tig weld the string to the tuner for extra security. Never worry again!
Pro tip from a violinist, if you put pencil lead on your nut (not sure if it is called the same thing with a guitar) your tune will change less during playing sessions, as your string tension will settle more evenly on either side of the nut when you use pencil lead to lubricate it
What you're saying is basically correct. Pencil lead contains a lot of clay though. I just bought a little tube of graphite and sprinkle that on there.
Definitely. A lot of pro guitar techs and luthiers will put some pencil graphite in the nut, possibly mixed with some other lubricant as well. I’ve been doing it on my guitars for a few years
As a luthier, I advise changing one string at a time. A set of steel strings at pitch is exerting c.70kg of tension. The forces on the top and neck are massive, and the guitar doesn't like big changes in tension. I only remove all the strings for repair work.
That is brutal for removing the strings later though. I’ve been a guitar tech for 10 years or so. I hate when guitars come to me like that. It’s now wrong or bad, but it’s overkill and a pain in the @$$ later on. I do it exactly how this video shows.
@@thisisnotmyname91 How’s it brutal though. You just loosen strings, clip them, then push the loose string back through the hole. I can restring all 6 strings in like 10 minutes sans tuning.
Yup, ya need about one turn around the post and done, if people strings are losing their tuning they need to pull the slack out of them. Also, whoever hired this clown as their guitar tech, is a bigger clown than they are. The shop I used to teach at had one of the best luthiers on the east coast, and always told me you do one string at a time because the amount of energy being stored by those strings is immense and unless I want to buy a new neck than I should always change them one at a time. But ya know, he only had 40 years experience and could fix things no one else could, he couldn't have possibly been more wise and experienced than this 22 year old moron over here.
I used to string my guitars this way. Turns out, as the strings get a little give in them, it actually hurts your tuning stability. I went back to the old-school method, haven't had a problem since.
It’s also good to be wrapping the string around a few times so you can later on tune up or down. If you didn’t have any turns of the strings around the pin then later on you would run out of wrapping strings in tuning! Also pull up on the string in the middle of the fret board with a bit of tension so that when you do tune it will be a constant tension instead of having the string loose when you go to tune it. After about 40 years I’ve learned just how to string a guitar and learned on my own!
Also remember to stretch the strings after tuning them up to note, then tune them up again a few times. Helps to keep the strings in tune faster, as new strings are more stretchy. So you wanna help the strings to become less stretchy and stay in tune better. I dont know how much of what im trying to say is getting across but if you get it, hope it helps.
I am no guitar player but would like to learn to play and just how you worded it was enough for me to intake I understood your analogy I kinda visualized it lol
I just tune them two semitones above normal, and then tune them back down again; this gets rid of all the stretching, and is perfectly disciplined and repeatable. Stretching the strings manually might strain them unnecessarily at a single point.
"Yank and crank" string stretching is for noobs. Re-string your guitar, tune it, and do NOT stretch your strings. Instead put your guitar in the case (without playing it) for 12 hours. This gives your strings time to stretch and seat properly. After 12 hours, retune and voila! Your guitar will now stay in tune without causing METAL FATIGUE in your strings by doing the "yank and crank" thing. This is how professional guitar techs do it between shows.
As a physio its good to stretch, massage the strings but also to just work on the strings by actually playing on it to build more stability and tuning endurance.
As a blacksmith i recommend forge welding your strings to your nuts so they get a nice seal you can additional tig weld the string to the tuner for extra security. Never worry again!
@@tonyhort8343 The thing is, I have never bought a new guitar that has been strung that way; it's utterly unnecessary, and adds a couple of seconds per string. If you are stringing hundreds of new guitars a day in a factory environment, it will cost you time, and time is money.
You can also pull it through the tuning peg, bend the excess up vertically and then when you wind the tuning keys the string will wrap itself around the vertical each time it wraps around and it'll lock it into place.
If your strings are pulling out of tune with bends it is most likely caused by the string not returning to the original position in the nut. It should either be resized or smoothed out and lubrication added.
This is called a Gibson knot. It doesnt lock your strings, takes longer to install, and you'll hate yourself when you re-string. Just thread the string through the tuner, grab at the nut, pull back until your fingers meet the first fret, and wind.
@@jimburdin "like a pro"? No professional does one at a time. Ain’t got time for that. Pros do all of them, clean down the fretboards of gunk and sweat and then check for any potential flex in the neck with the proper equipment. I could do that too, but I don’t gig so I tweak the truss as needed, when needed. If a neck is affected by loss of string pull, it will pretty much be equally affected by having it put back on. There’s no right or wrong here, we’re just sharing our methods. I change them just a few times a year anyways, and climate / temperature / moisture or otherwise is much tougher on the truss than any string change is ever gonna be anyways.
This is great. I always just pulled it back up for it so that it would have some slack and then I would just hold it down with my thumb and let it be under. This is a really good technique for nylon strings so that they don’t slip. I’m going to use this technique from now on thank you.
I'm 64 yrs old. Got my first guitar when I was 13, still have it, a Yamaha FG 160. Been stringing it all these years. I don't think there's any 'best' way to do it. Just get the strings around the posts, not too many winds, make sure they're properly seated against the bridge pins, stretch the strings with a tug, then tune. Oh, no need to cut the strings off. Just loosen em up and pull them off the posts. Why turn six strings into twelve?
However you re-string, based on the various methods shown above, I always use a Kyser type capo between the nut and 1st fret when adding the new string. This keeps it in line, as I slightly tug 1/2 way down the string somewhere. I have been re-stringing my guitars, acoustic,electric, ukuleles, this way since the since the late 60s. Hint: for nylon strings (classical guitars, ukes), don't tug too much. You will instantly ruin the intonation properties of a new string.
personally, i was taught save older strings in case 1 breaks I have replacements (past experience while performing) although i do cut at tuning keys (less material) you were taught to cut old ones out to each his/her own.. thnx4sharin' also i like power spinner rather than by hand ..
STOP!! This is an awkward method. It’d work only if the side of the string is free to spin. If string is not free to spin the one flipping over the top will create torsion tension which could break the wound. It’s crucial for bass guitar strings and upright bass. For the 3 upper strings’ tuning machines (D A E) this method could damage the strings’ wound, for lower strings’ tuning machine it could create other directional torsion tension which could weaken the wound. THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THIS IS CREATING THE FLIPPING OVER THE TOP BY SPINNING THE TUNING MACHINE, not by creating the lasso by hands!!!
Absolutely, the rotation /twistiof the string does not allow for a free string. Now you have tension both directions on fhe string. Just use the rotation of the string post to do the work rather than the "lasso".
Pull string tight, loop end under string, pull up to trap end and wind. In tune as per locking MH with just one loop. Has never let me down electric or acoustic.
I’ve watched “pros” online string a guitar at least 3 different ways, that were all identified as the “right way” to do it. On a 3+3, I pull the string to the next tuner, cut it, let 1/4 stick out, make one turn over and the rest under.
I always make it a point to loosen each string slowly and replace each one before moving to the next. I have and will never ever cut the whole 6 strings at once! Have you read Mike Clink's words on how Slash spoilt his perfectly good guitar like that in the studio while recording Appetite for Destruction?
The over-under method. But it doesn't have to be done on all 6 strings. The low E A D G wound strings just need to be underwound down 3 turns with just the unwound high E B strings needing to be locked in with the over-under method. Works every time and quicker
Aesop had a fable about this I believe…. Remember speed kills…. My opinion is to slowly re-string, you know like a tortoise would if he/she had longer arms/legs (watch out for the snappers tho…. great name chick band). At the end of the day it’s your pride and joy…that and a glass of MacCallan 25 is like date night!!!😂
Not sure if its that huge of a deal but ive heard to cut and do one string at a time so the truss rod and neck doesnt lose too much tension too quickly. It may never affect you but over years of cutting them all at once has a chance to cause cracks in the neck. Maybe im superstitious but I always do them one at a time
Really particular but cuts all the strings at once... for those who don't know with old guitars without trust rods it will bow the neck if you cut all the strings because it releases tension off the neck. It will bow after changing strings a couple of times with this method. I normally change them one at a time and anyone else who plays acoustic guitars I recommend doing the same
If you're worried about tuning stability, buy a better guitar, or invest in some locking tuners. You only need to insert the string, bend it 90 degrees, and start tuning. I never had an issue doing this. Also, make sure to replace each string at a time so the guitar tension never dramatically shifts and remains under tension.
I do this, except I just wrap it around like a normal person and I don't have a winder. The pulling to the first fret and then wrapping it manually is awesome, though. Requires way less winding.
Exactly the way I’ve been restringing my guitar for 30 yrs. One above and 2 or 3 below. Can’t even remember who taught me. Nice to know I was on the right track.
I used to "lock" the strings using the same technique. However, 4 out of 5 guitar techs who saw it said, 'don't do that, it only makes it harder to remove the string.'
@@SeeJayPlayGames -- Their point is that's all it really accomplishes. It doesn't lock the strings any better than a sufficient number of winds around the post.
Good job and good technique I've been using it for nearly two decades... I would encourage you to throw the snips away you don't need ever restring guitar or to get rid of the tails.. when you do the over/ under pinch wrap. That affords you the ability to break the string by hand, and the beneficial result is that you or your 6-year-old can grab those string posts all day long anyway you want to and you'll never tear or poke your finger.. if you use a gig bag you won't tear up the inside of it.. let me know if you don't like to have a link.
I always thought you should only change one string at a time, so that the tension on the neck isn't released. He cuts all 6 off in one go. Is that really a good idea? Does it matter?
@@mackxzsdoesn't really matter on electric, just put a microfiber towel between the floating bridge or whatever and the body. on my cheaper prs se, i dont even bother with a towel and the bridge hasn't put even a scratch on the finish from restringing
Been playing 30 years. What I know differently here is, don't change them all at the same time because your string action will probably not be the same. One at a time is better.
Anytime I restring my bass I do a whole setup . It doesn't take long and the more you do it the easier it gets and you save big $$$ overtime and get "your" tone down to perfection . The gunk I clean off on the fret board at the G string is embarrassing . Lol
While his could be a fun test to see if your tuning stability improves. There's generally no need to "lock' your string in place and in fact may actually hide some defects in your tuning setup. If this is a "must" for you, I'd recommend taking your guitar to a pro and fixing the issues that are causing this to be so needed for you
That’s actually just restringing one way. It’s not the ‘proper way’ because there’s no such thing. My preferred technique that I use on all the guitars I work on is to straighten out the hole on the tuner first. Feed the string in and then pull it back the distance between two tuning pegs. Then just start winding with each wrap going under the previous one. The over under technique that’s demonstrated here is a purely aesthetic difference. There is no other benefit to doing it this way
I don't wrap the string around the post, cos I think it doesn't want to swing right if it's twisted within itself. Otherwise if it's loose enough at the ball end, I slide along the string between two fingers from nut to bridge so it can unwind the twist
@@adamsadek2864 this is exactly my experience with it. I put some locking tuners on an SJ-200 (chibson, but I what ever) which is about as massive as an acoustic gets (especially with the shitty model incorrect bracing that they used) and it made the neck dive bad. Normally I’m all about locking tuners.
@GrevDrake So what you are saying is that 1 in 5 customers can't figure out a simple UA-cam search but expect to be able to learn to play a complicated instrument. You guys must have a hell of a "barely used" 2nd hand guitar market.
lmao this comment is just like bad lmao if I had to rate this comment out of 10 it would be 0, why tf does it matter that people would take their guitar to the tech idk ur point is so u clear idk how to even break down how ur wrong Taking guitar into shop=\=poor playing skills
It doesn't create any problem. That's easily explained why whammy bars are used and don't cause any damage at all. Yes, even some acoustics have had them as well.
Complete nonsense. The neck is made of wood from a tree that once stood strong and easily supported its own weight in the elements. Wood has been used in construction for as long as humans have been walking the planet, and has been relied on for strength to support all sorts of structures. The idea that a little string tension release is going to slowly damage your neck is completely idiotic.
I've never felt the need to cut the strings, just unwind and pull them out. But I have always just taken the string from the next key away and put that point in the one im stringing to. Usually get 3 turns. To each their own.
Too much string on the post makes it harder to keep it in tune. I found that ones around on the thick strings and 2 twice around on the lower thin strings is best. Keeps it in tune easier and you can tune to pitch more in control. if you have too much string wounded around the post that can give more tension and slack making it more likely for your guitar to go out of tune or if you use a capo. Just my personal experience I been restring and playing guitar for over 25yrs.
This does not effect tuning stability. If you notch the other side the opposite way that over the top bullshit isn't necessary. In fact the extra winds on top increase the chance of microtonal slippage. 2 to 3 winds down are optimal.
Eh, I've always heard since I first started to never loop the strings whatsoever when restringing your guitar. Better to let the strings naturally tune up while tuning them. That's at least the way I've always done it and have never had issues with it both playing/staying in tune wise.
Thats a stupid way to do it. But ok. Just drag the string to the tuner after the one you want, and just make a little edge...put it in the tuner and wind at the bend...
There is a way easier way to do this. Align the peg with the hole toward the neck, then put the string through the hole, grab the string at the nut and bring it back a fret and a quarter (2 and a quarter on the treble side). Then just turn and get one wrap over top and the rest under. It gives the same wrap this guy uses with way less effort. All wraps go underneath on the treble side
The statement about tuning stability is a lie. You should avoid making too many turns. For thick strings one turn is enough, even half a turn would be sufficient if a string is thick enough. For thin strings one above the tail and one below is enough as well. The reason is as follows. The more turns you make, the more surface area of a string rubs against an adjacent strung turn and the peg itself. The more such friction you have, the worse the string goes back after things like bends. Thus, having few string turns provides much more tuning stability!
I’ve been stringing like this for 20 years, anything without locking tuners. It’s rock solid. The only reason more wraps could cause issues after stretch-in is if you’re wrapping it too loose, changing tunings a lot, and/or dive bombing a tremolo.
@@Spiraljam the reason you provide is enough to say more wraps make things worse. After all, the friction between string wraps is incomparable with the force that really keeps strings tight. So why bothering making more turns if you get the same result with just one or two and do not have to deal with the friction between the wraps when your guitar goes out of tune after a couple of bends or dive bombs?
@@danielkeehl7450 that’s not what I said. I said unless you’re doing it wrong, or using the guitar in a manner inconsistent with what the instrument is capable of withstanding regardless of wrapping style, more wraps does not breed issues. Especially the method shown, as the doubled up coils aren’t stacked directly on top of each other. Especially to a point of assuming it’s others who are stupid for having a technique inferior to your opinion. No guitar with out locking trem or at least tuners will hold tune after a dive bomb, no guitar is made to be frequently changed in tunings, especially without being set up with new, usually differently sized strings.
@@gogeta687 of course you NEVER tune your guitar once. I am saying you tune it LESS with the single string method. My experience is 50% less. Don't believe me, try it yourself.
I always pulled the low E thru tight, used two fingers to space it, then pulled it back to that to begin the wrap. First over, then under. The other strings I'd use 3 fingers, high b and e would use all 4 fingers. The only fear I ever had was doing a restring on 12 string for customers. Tuning up the e string to be the octave string for the high g was tricky. Most strings give you 2 frets easy tuning up. The third is possible, but right at that point. Most have breaking points after that. Meaning getting that e to g was almost 50-50. I had one break and plant itself 2 inches in my elbow. I didn't even feel it though. Good times.
First off, you should never just cut strings off of your guitar in this fashion. It shocks the neck. You gotta loosen them and let it sit for a few minutes. Then remove them.
That’s the first thing I thought lol. I was also taught to only do 2 strings at a time starting with the highs so you always maintain the tension on the neck.
that's a complete myth. You should be careful about it only if you have vintage hardware of dubious quality, because the backlash might cause a gear to crack or the like. The neck doesn't give two fucks about "shock".
Dude just committed more guitar sins than i can count. DONT cut strings under tension. DONT wrap around the post(its extremely annoying removing and puts way more tension than needed)
Looked like enough tension to me. The point being that over time this practice can cause the neck to warp and crack especially if the guitar is older and fragile. This method will also cause a negative affect to string action. This causes more frequent and unnecessary truss rod adjustment This is probably less noticeable on a brand new or well made guitar but the affect is still present. A better technique is to avoid dramatic changes to neck tension by just changing one string at a time. Twisting the string like that will place unnecessary tension on the winding of the string, causing it to unravel and break prematurely.
I'm just getting back into playing guitar the past few weeks and have been learning a lot that I never bothered to when I was younger. One of the things I've been meaning to look up was the "correct" way to string a guitar. If the way he does it in this video is not the best way what would a better option be? If you have a link to a good video showing how that also explains why that would be awesome. Thanks!
Because the neck was manufactured with strings on. And the tree grew with strings on. And the steel from the truss rod came from the foundry to the production with strings on. Right?
Do not string your guitar like this. You will damage the neck. This guy sounds like a poser. Do not listen. There is no great advice in this video. If bro is a professional, he must be trolling as only a truly basic person would provide this advice.
I'm just getting back into playing guitar the past few weeks and have been learning a lot that I never bothered to when I was younger. One of the things I've been meaning to look up was the "correct" way to string a guitar. If the way he does it in this video is not the best way what would a better option be? If you have a link to a good video showing how that also explains why that would be awesome. Thanks!
@@TheMegaGamingWizard Alternatives or solutions to what? What’s the problem you think exists? Taking all the strings off at the same time doesn’t hurt your guitar.
Put in string, pull back the length of the first fret, lock the string by bending it up, wind the string whilst pushing the string down. That is how I do it, but to each their own.
I solved string changing annoyance by putting locking tuners on my guitars. I line up the post holes so I can pull the string straight through, pull until there's no slack (not tightly), lock the tuner, and tune up! I can change strings in like 3 minutes. Locking tuners are a godsend.
I only do this my unwound strings. The wound strings bite on themselves and create an appropriate amount of stability. Unwound steel strings don’t have that luxury, so locking it between an over and under wind works great.
On a Floyd rise try stringing in reverse! Ball end at the stock! Just cut off about 5”-7” on the straight end,lock it in then wind to tune! I’ve been doing it this way for 25 years! Ultra
Thank you. I just got an Epiphone LP and the first time I restrung it it got the lengths wrong. Second time not too shabby but this technique looks very helpful. Thank you
YES!!! Finally someone showing the absolute best way to do it! Bee doing this for years tryto explain why it’s the best way for non locking tuners and some friends still dont understand 🤣🤣
All string pegs should be open slotted. You can loosen all pegs slightly, pull all strings straight up and off in seconds to do whatever ( clean fretboard, vacuum out body, or on electric pull off pickguard), then put strings straight back down in seconds and retune. BTW there is no need to lock strings on an acoustic guitars and guitars with no vibrato bar. BTW 'Tremolo' is amplitude modulation AM, Vibrato is Frequency modulation FM. a Leslie speaker is AM/FM. As is the Theater Pipe Organ Tremulent it imitates. Which was Don Leslie's motive. Check out pics of the first LESLIE 30A speaker cabinets. The first Leslie horns found in the 30A cabinets were made of paper mache and a block of wood. Note only one horn speaks . The other horn is for balance.
Instructions unclear: I now have a Disney villain scar across my face
Nice. ❤
Lmao 😂😂😂
Pretty straight forward if you actually play guitar
They can whip yah!
lmao you don't have to worry about that, I've tried this on my MIM Strat and it works like a charm. The strings on electric are thinner and easier to break and yet it still worked fine :)
As a truck driver, i recommend using a pneumatic impact to really torque them so they dont come off.
😂
Lol
As a blacksmith i recommend forge welding your strings to your nuts so they get a nice seal you can additional tig weld the string to the tuner for extra security. Never worry again!
Inch drive Milwaukee on that thing
I also put red lock tite on the tuning pegs so I never have to retune again.
I was just about to re string, damn this might save me, thanks
Update: It really did saved me so much time
I literally restringed my guitar last night and then I see this NOW
@@CastJupiter-lh8yk ouch
Don't cut all your strings at once. It's terrible for the tension on the neck. Do it one string at a time.
Please do not follow his technique
You don't need to do that, a single bend is enough to lock the string you bend it towards the tip of the head and wind
Pro tip from a violinist, if you put pencil lead on your nut (not sure if it is called the same thing with a guitar) your tune will change less during playing sessions, as your string tension will settle more evenly on either side of the nut when you use pencil lead to lubricate it
What you're saying is basically correct. Pencil lead contains a lot of clay though. I just bought a little tube of graphite and sprinkle that on there.
Definitely. A lot of pro guitar techs and luthiers will put some pencil graphite in the nut, possibly mixed with some other lubricant as well. I’ve been doing it on my guitars for a few years
I roll the pencil lead on the slot so it sprinkles a little dust in there and also draw a little right on the string where it rests in there.
What if you’re 64 years old and you no longer have any lead in your pencil?
Sharpened. A Sharpened pencil lead make of Graphite.
As a luthier, I advise changing one string at a time. A set of steel strings at pitch is exerting c.70kg of tension. The forces on the top and neck are massive, and the guitar doesn't like big changes in tension. I only remove all the strings for repair work.
I have been told the same by three pros
where do you start - thickest string to thinnest, or the other way?
@@alcatraz0198 it doesn't really matter, but I start with the low E, then high E, then A, B, D, G.
100% !
@@elpirata2685 thank you, will try that. :)
I just thread it back through the hole. Never had any issues. I don’t think I’ve ever even had a botched restring before.
That is brutal for removing the strings later though. I’ve been a guitar tech for 10 years or so. I hate when guitars come to me like that. It’s now wrong or bad, but it’s overkill and a pain in the @$$ later on. I do it exactly how this video shows.
Same here dude. This way looks a bit more complicated to me.
@@thisisnotmyname91 How’s it brutal though. You just loosen strings, clip them, then push the loose string back through the hole. I can restring all 6 strings in like 10 minutes sans tuning.
I HATE IT when people do this. It does absolutely nothing. It doesnt lock your strings. It just makes it a pain in the ass when you take them off
Yup, ya need about one turn around the post and done, if people strings are losing their tuning they need to pull the slack out of them. Also, whoever hired this clown as their guitar tech, is a bigger clown than they are. The shop I used to teach at had one of the best luthiers on the east coast, and always told me you do one string at a time because the amount of energy being stored by those strings is immense and unless I want to buy a new neck than I should always change them one at a time. But ya know, he only had 40 years experience and could fix things no one else could, he couldn't have possibly been more wise and experienced than this 22 year old moron over here.
I am restringing one now that someone did this to and it was a pain lol
Tell me about it 😂@@chriscunningham1968
😂😂😂
Was just about to post this lol.
Hey...thats the way I've always done it since high skoo. In the 90s😊
Skoo
Using some variation of a loop or Luther's knot goes back a ridiculously long way for a reason.
I used to string my guitars this way. Turns out, as the strings get a little give in them, it actually hurts your tuning stability. I went back to the old-school method, haven't had a problem since.
Yeah, stay old school. I never have a problem with tuning issues. Not once.
What is the old school method?
Just measure distance to wrap to peg, bend 90 degrees and wind it up from the bottom til tight.
Plenty of videos out there...
Agreed, all these fancy locking methods don't improve things and just make them annoying to undo when changing
Thank you, this is just some dumb hipster thinking he discovered a new way to slice bread
It’s also good to be wrapping the string around a few times so you can later on tune up or down. If you didn’t have any turns of the strings around the pin then later on you would run out of wrapping strings in tuning! Also pull up on the string in the middle of the fret board with a bit of tension so that when you do tune it will be a constant tension instead of having the string loose when you go to tune it. After about 40 years I’ve learned just how to string a guitar and learned on my own!
Also remember to stretch the strings after tuning them up to note, then tune them up again a few times. Helps to keep the strings in tune faster, as new strings are more stretchy. So you wanna help the strings to become less stretchy and stay in tune better. I dont know how much of what im trying to say is getting across but if you get it, hope it helps.
I am no guitar player but would like to learn to play and just how you worded it was enough for me to intake I understood your analogy I kinda visualized it lol
Yes I do this too! Thought I was the only one haha
@@Mehsowhatlololololo that’s hilarious lolololo
I just tune them two semitones above normal, and then tune them back down again; this gets rid of all the stretching, and is perfectly disciplined and repeatable. Stretching the strings manually might strain them unnecessarily at a single point.
"Yank and crank" string stretching is for noobs. Re-string your guitar, tune it, and do NOT stretch your strings. Instead put your guitar in the case (without playing it) for 12 hours. This gives your strings time to stretch and seat properly. After 12 hours, retune and voila! Your guitar will now stay in tune without causing METAL FATIGUE in your strings by doing the "yank and crank" thing. This is how professional guitar techs do it between shows.
As a physio its good to stretch, massage the strings but also to just work on the strings by actually playing on it to build more stability and tuning endurance.
U guys should make basses
I would love for Orangewood to make semi-acoustic basses!
They're not making guitars either, they just buy cheap guitars, change strings, file down the bridge and call it a day
The way he first cuts the strings already explained he's a true pro at this.
As a blacksmith i recommend forge welding your strings to your nuts so they get a nice seal you can additional tig weld the string to the tuner for extra security. Never worry again!
I'm not welding anything to my nuts!
haha... i like the way you think... serious business!!!
@@tonyhort8343 The thing is, I have never bought a new guitar that has been strung that way; it's utterly unnecessary, and adds a couple of seconds per string. If you are stringing hundreds of new guitars a day in a factory environment, it will cost you time, and time is money.
"forge welding your strings to your nuts." OUCH!
You can also pull it through the tuning peg, bend the excess up vertically and then when you wind the tuning keys the string will wrap itself around the vertical each time it wraps around and it'll lock it into place.
This works. Same way I do it. It's less likely your strings will pull out of tune . Especially with heavy bends
If your strings are pulling out of tune with bends it is most likely caused by the string not returning to the original position in the nut. It should either be resized or smoothed out and lubrication added.
This is called a Gibson knot. It doesnt lock your strings, takes longer to install, and you'll hate yourself when you re-string. Just thread the string through the tuner, grab at the nut, pull back until your fingers meet the first fret, and wind.
Exactly
Rory Gallaghers Roady Mr. Odriscoll showed me how to restring a guitar I'll stick with that.... Rory on!!
Amen, this whole locking strings crap makes for horrendous string changes.
I don't get why it's horrendous to change strings, it takes only minutes.
@@marcellino1956awesome, I was just at the auction watching his strat get sold. Can you elaborate on the method the tech taught you?
Came here to read the comments, the world didn’t disappoint 😂
Lots of opinions and anecdotes and a few folks getting real salty.
Thank you so much. This helped me a lot
I always replace my guitar with Locking Tuners. No more winding strings 🙂 Even with Floyd Rose trems.
If I never saw a Floyd rose or edge trem again, I would be happy lol
Tuning stability is key. Good work bro. 👏
Best way to re string. Been doin this for 45 years now.
Good job man. I do personally hate the string lock. But you did what with perfection.
When I'm removing the strings I do it one at a time and I don't cut it, I just use the tuning peg to loosen the string then take it off...
He loosened them too… he just also cut them. Much faster. One at a time makes cleaning the fretboard properly a struggle.
@@olavjorvik94 but it also will stress the neck when you remove the string pull.. i do it one string at a time to do it like a pro...
@@jimburdin "like a pro"? No professional does one at a time. Ain’t got time for that. Pros do all of them, clean down the fretboards of gunk and sweat and then check for any potential flex in the neck with the proper equipment. I could do that too, but I don’t gig so I tweak the truss as needed, when needed. If a neck is affected by loss of string pull, it will pretty much be equally affected by having it put back on. There’s no right or wrong here, we’re just sharing our methods. I change them just a few times a year anyways, and climate / temperature / moisture or otherwise is much tougher on the truss than any string change is ever gonna be anyways.
One at a time always for 45 years
@@jimburdin What will hurt is NOT taking them all off to oil the neck and letting it go dry.
This is great. I always just pulled it back up for it so that it would have some slack and then I would just hold it down with my thumb and let it be under. This is a really good technique for nylon strings so that they don’t slip. I’m going to use this technique from now on thank you.
I'm 64 yrs old. Got my first guitar when I was 13, still have it, a Yamaha FG 160. Been stringing it all these years. I don't think there's any 'best' way to do it. Just get the strings around the posts, not too many winds, make sure they're properly seated against the bridge pins, stretch the strings with a tug, then tune. Oh, no need to cut the strings off. Just loosen em up and pull them off the posts. Why turn six strings into twelve?
Depends on the guitar. With strats for example it's a pain if you don't cut the strings because you have to feed the tangled ends through the body
There definitely is a "best" way to wrap it around the tuning peg
@@whitehh15nah
@@whitehh15dude thats pat “magpie” metheny I think he know about guitars better than you.
@@Peeingstickymilkwho's that's?
However you re-string, based on the various methods shown above, I always use a Kyser type capo between the nut and 1st fret when adding the new string. This keeps it in line, as I slightly tug 1/2 way down the string somewhere. I have been re-stringing my guitars, acoustic,electric, ukuleles, this way since the since the late 60s. Hint: for nylon strings (classical guitars, ukes), don't tug too much. You will instantly ruin the intonation properties of a new string.
well now I'm not afraid to restring my guitar after 50 years of playing it
its called a luthiers knot and it does nothing but makes the string harder to remove when you do your next string change.
I wholeheartedly agree, this is how I do it for myself and customers at the store I work at
I have been playing guitar for 30 years and tried every restringing technique, but this is the most reliable imo
This could work on an electric too right?
Yes!
personally, i was taught save older strings in case 1 breaks I have replacements (past experience while performing) although i do cut at tuning keys (less material) you were taught to cut old ones out to each his/her own.. thnx4sharin' also i like power spinner rather than by hand ..
STOP!! This is an awkward method. It’d work only if the side of the string is free to spin. If string is not free to spin the one flipping over the top will create torsion tension which could break the wound. It’s crucial for bass guitar strings and upright bass.
For the 3 upper strings’ tuning machines (D A E) this method could damage the strings’ wound, for lower strings’ tuning machine it could create other directional torsion tension which could weaken the wound.
THE RIGHT WAY TO DO THIS IS CREATING THE FLIPPING OVER THE TOP BY SPINNING THE TUNING MACHINE, not by creating the lasso by hands!!!
I do it your way, even without a stringwinder. Has served me well for decades, in and out of professional settings.
Absolutely, the rotation /twistiof the string does not allow for a free string. Now you have tension both directions on fhe string. Just use the rotation of the string post to do the work rather than the "lasso".
I've never broken ead strings from the nut side, they all break from saddle if they do at all.
Pull string tight, loop end under string, pull up to trap end and wind. In tune as per locking MH with just one loop. Has never let me down electric or acoustic.
I’ve watched “pros” online string a guitar at least 3 different ways, that were all identified as the “right way” to do it. On a 3+3, I pull the string to the next tuner, cut it, let 1/4 stick out, make one turn over and the rest under.
Correct method straight up
I buy locking tuners....that really locks them in and doesn't look stupid....
I always make it a point to loosen each string slowly and replace each one before moving to the next.
I have and will never ever cut the whole 6 strings at once!
Have you read Mike Clink's words on how Slash spoilt his perfectly good guitar like that in the studio while recording Appetite for Destruction?
Agree. Not a fan of cutting off the strings for that and other reasons. I keep many of mine as desperation spares.
The over-under method. But it doesn't have to be done on all 6 strings. The low E A D G wound strings just need to be underwound down 3 turns with just the unwound high E B strings needing to be locked in with the over-under method. Works every time and quicker
I’ve done it like that for years. Works great.
Well, that guitar case is amazing!
Always leave the middle two to save your truss tension
No just 1 at a time.
It doesnt matter if it’s a good guitar. It takes 10-15 min to re string the whole thing and the neck doesn’t get much affected by that time
Aesop had a fable about this I believe…. Remember speed kills…. My opinion is to slowly re-string, you know like a tortoise would if he/she had longer arms/legs (watch out for the snappers tho…. great name chick band). At the end of the day it’s your pride and joy…that and a glass of MacCallan 25 is like date night!!!😂
Not sure if its that huge of a deal but ive heard to cut and do one string at a time so the truss rod and neck doesnt lose too much tension too quickly. It may never affect you but over years of cutting them all at once has a chance to cause cracks in the neck. Maybe im superstitious but I always do them one at a time
Really particular but cuts all the strings at once... for those who don't know with old guitars without trust rods it will bow the neck if you cut all the strings because it releases tension off the neck. It will bow after changing strings a couple of times with this method. I normally change them one at a time and anyone else who plays acoustic guitars I recommend doing the same
Also hold the wound strings up so they do not grind out the groove so much.
If you're worried about tuning stability, buy a better guitar, or invest in some locking tuners. You only need to insert the string, bend it 90 degrees, and start tuning. I never had an issue doing this. Also, make sure to replace each string at a time so the guitar tension never dramatically shifts and remains under tension.
I do this, except I just wrap it around like a normal person and I don't have a winder. The pulling to the first fret and then wrapping it manually is awesome, though. Requires way less winding.
This is the way I also did it, while touring. I never had tuning problems.
Exactly the way I’ve been restringing my guitar for 30 yrs. One above and 2 or 3 below. Can’t even remember who taught me. Nice to know I was on the right track.
I used to "lock" the strings using the same technique. However, 4 out of 5 guitar techs who saw it said, 'don't do that, it only makes it harder to remove the string.'
If you already changed the strings that way, why let their opinion change how you change your own strings?
... It made sense. Try it yourself--that's how you learn things.
not that hard to remove the string, what are they talking about?
@@SeeJayPlayGames -- Their point is that's all it really accomplishes. It doesn't lock the strings any better than a sufficient number of winds around the post.
Good job and good technique I've been using it for nearly two decades... I would encourage you to throw the snips away you don't need ever restring guitar or to get rid of the tails.. when you do the over/ under pinch wrap. That affords you the ability to break the string by hand, and the beneficial result is that you or your 6-year-old can grab those string posts all day long anyway you want to and you'll never tear or poke your finger.. if you use a gig bag you won't tear up the inside of it.. let me know if you don't like to have a link.
I always thought you should only change one string at a time, so that the tension on the neck isn't released. He cuts all 6 off in one go. Is that really a good idea? Does it matter?
It matters for electric guitars, the ones with springs in the body. You'd benefit from being gentler with those ones.
No its amateur hour online.
@@mackxzsdoesn't really matter on electric, just put a microfiber towel between the floating bridge or whatever and the body. on my cheaper prs se, i dont even bother with a towel and the bridge hasn't put even a scratch on the finish from restringing
I have been doing this over 25 years now and still stuck with this technique.
Been playing 30 years.
What I know differently here is, don't change them all at the same time because your string action will probably not be the same. One at a time is better.
Yeah if you want one string to be way brighter than the others maybe
Anytime I restring my bass I do a whole setup . It doesn't take long and the more you do it the easier it gets and you save big $$$ overtime and get "your" tone down to perfection . The gunk I clean off on the fret board at the G string is embarrassing . Lol
While his could be a fun test to see if your tuning stability improves. There's generally no need to "lock' your string in place and in fact may actually hide some defects in your tuning setup. If this is a "must" for you, I'd recommend taking your guitar to a pro and fixing the issues that are causing this to be so needed for you
At last, someone restringing properly!
That’s actually just restringing one way. It’s not the ‘proper way’ because there’s no such thing.
My preferred technique that I use on all the guitars I work on is to straighten out the hole on the tuner first. Feed the string in and then pull it back the distance between two tuning pegs. Then just start winding with each wrap going under the previous one.
The over under technique that’s demonstrated here is a purely aesthetic difference. There is no other benefit to doing it this way
I don't wrap the string around the post, cos I think it doesn't want to swing right if it's twisted within itself.
Otherwise if it's loose enough at the ball end, I slide along the string between two fingers from nut to bridge so it can unwind the twist
Two words. Locking tuners.
on an acoustic guitar?
@@adamsadek2864 yeah why not?
@@GigglePig99-j2u it’s real heavy so neck dive but also it messes with the bridge a lot more than an electric
You don't know what are you talking about, don't you@@adamsadek2864
@@adamsadek2864 this is exactly my experience with it. I put some locking tuners on an SJ-200 (chibson, but I what ever) which is about as massive as an acoustic gets (especially with the shitty model incorrect bracing that they used) and it made the neck dive bad.
Normally I’m all about locking tuners.
it doesn't matter, that's why the peg has a larger diameter at the bottom and tapers towards the top. As you the wind the string it'll lock in place.
Never met someone that was AFRAID to restring their guitar. Is there a support group for that??? 😂😂
Come to the guitar repair dept. of Music Store in Cologne on a Saturday. Every 5th customer is a N00b who doesn't know how to restring.
@GrevDrake So what you are saying is that 1 in 5 customers can't figure out a simple UA-cam search but expect to be able to learn to play a complicated instrument. You guys must have a hell of a "barely used" 2nd hand guitar market.
@@williamdesmarais4931 correct...
And if they don't want a guitar restrung, they ask the techie to tune the guitar for them 🤦🏼♂️
I dread having to restring my guitar. I used to do it myself. The strings look like shit, they slip and I stab the crap out of my fingers. 😟😟
lmao this comment is just like bad lmao if I had to rate this comment out of 10 it would be 0, why tf does it matter that people would take their guitar to the tech idk ur point is so u clear idk how to even break down how ur wrong
Taking guitar into shop=\=poor playing skills
In my humble but experienced opinion, this method might work well to anchor the string but it also puts a twist in the length of the sting.
never cut the strings like he did it will damage the neck over time as it’s loosing the tension all of a sudden.
I completely agree, make sure there is no tension in the neck before doing that
Not true. False.
It doesn't create any problem. That's easily explained why whammy bars are used and don't cause any damage at all. Yes, even some acoustics have had them as well.
Complete nonsense. The neck is made of wood from a tree that once stood strong and easily supported its own weight in the elements. Wood has been used in construction for as long as humans have been walking the planet, and has been relied on for strength to support all sorts of structures. The idea that a little string tension release is going to slowly damage your neck is completely idiotic.
@@Bmoseley85 it ain’t that serious
I've never felt the need to cut the strings, just unwind and pull them out. But I have always just taken the string from the next key away and put that point in the one im stringing to. Usually get 3 turns. To each their own.
It doesn’t help with tuning stability lol musicians love to sound smart
Too much string on the post makes it harder to keep it in tune. I found that ones around on the thick strings and 2 twice around on the lower thin strings is best. Keeps it in tune easier and you can tune to pitch more in control. if you have too much string wounded around the post that can give more tension and slack making it more likely for your guitar to go out of tune or if you use a capo. Just my personal experience I been restring and playing guitar for over 25yrs.
Don't cut the strings like this. Just change one string at a time. This avoids shock unloading.
This does not effect tuning stability. If you notch the other side the opposite way that over the top bullshit isn't necessary. In fact the extra winds on top increase the chance of microtonal slippage. 2 to 3 winds down are optimal.
Eh, I've always heard since I first started to never loop the strings whatsoever when restringing your guitar. Better to let the strings naturally tune up while tuning them. That's at least the way I've always done it and have never had issues with it both playing/staying in tune wise.
There's so much bro science in the guitar community that I just assume everything is nonsense
Where I don’t have locking tuners, I do this. It’s a luthier’s knot. No string slippage at the tuners.
Thats a stupid way to do it. But ok.
Just drag the string to the tuner after the one you want, and just make a little edge...put it in the tuner and wind at the bend...
He literally said he’s “particular” about how he does his strings. But ok…
yeah, and that can be impractical because shit happens and that would make it harder to replace the string midgig
and for unwound strings lock it by create a binding with the string the other way around underneath the string
I learned to restring one at a time, to not allow the fret board to relax
It's fine if you don't leave the strings off for long.
Release the tension slowly before you start clipping the strings. It's very hard on the guitar neck if you don't.
This is the opposite of a "pro" restring
There is a way easier way to do this. Align the peg with the hole toward the neck, then put the string through the hole, grab the string at the nut and bring it back a fret and a quarter (2 and a quarter on the treble side).
Then just turn and get one wrap over top and the rest under. It gives the same wrap this guy uses with way less effort. All wraps go underneath on the treble side
The statement about tuning stability is a lie. You should avoid making too many turns. For thick strings one turn is enough, even half a turn would be sufficient if a string is thick enough. For thin strings one above the tail and one below is enough as well.
The reason is as follows. The more turns you make, the more surface area of a string rubs against an adjacent strung turn and the peg itself. The more such friction you have, the worse the string goes back after things like bends. Thus, having few string turns provides much more tuning stability!
Hey! Yer wrong!
I’ve been stringing like this for 20 years, anything without locking tuners. It’s rock solid. The only reason more wraps could cause issues after stretch-in is if you’re wrapping it too loose, changing tunings a lot, and/or dive bombing a tremolo.
@@Spiraljam the reason you provide is enough to say more wraps make things worse. After all, the friction between string wraps is incomparable with the force that really keeps strings tight. So why bothering making more turns if you get the same result with just one or two and do not have to deal with the friction between the wraps when your guitar goes out of tune after a couple of bends or dive bombs?
@@danielkeehl7450 that’s not what I said. I said unless you’re doing it wrong, or using the guitar in a manner inconsistent with what the instrument is capable of withstanding regardless of wrapping style, more wraps does not breed issues. Especially the method shown, as the doubled up coils aren’t stacked directly on top of each other. Especially to a point of assuming it’s others who are stupid for having a technique inferior to your opinion. No guitar with out locking trem or at least tuners will hold tune after a dive bomb, no guitar is made to be frequently changed in tunings, especially without being set up with new, usually differently sized strings.
@@danielkeehl7450 I’m sorry, liars*. Not stupid, you said they were liars.*
It also gives you the most break angle as the string is on the bottom of peg.
First rule, 1 at a time. This prevents your neck from relaxing and the need to retune your guitar later.
So you string your guitar, tune it once and your done!? That's amazing! Teach me your ways! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@gogeta687 of course you NEVER tune your guitar once. I am saying you tune it LESS with the single string method. My experience is 50% less. Don't believe me, try it yourself.
I always pulled the low E thru tight, used two fingers to space it, then pulled it back to that to begin the wrap. First over, then under. The other strings I'd use 3 fingers, high b and e would use all 4 fingers.
The only fear I ever had was doing a restring on 12 string for customers. Tuning up the e string to be the octave string for the high g was tricky.
Most strings give you 2 frets easy tuning up. The third is possible, but right at that point. Most have breaking points after that. Meaning getting that e to g was almost 50-50.
I had one break and plant itself 2 inches in my elbow. I didn't even feel it though.
Good times.
And if you make a mistake, don't fret.😊
This is the best way to restring in my opinion, doing it since the mid nineties 😊
First off, you should never just cut strings off of your guitar in this fashion. It shocks the neck. You gotta loosen them and let it sit for a few minutes. Then remove them.
That’s the first thing I thought lol. I was also taught to only do 2 strings at a time starting with the highs so you always maintain the tension on the neck.
If you do this with a classical guitar it is ruined for good. Always keep tension on the neck. But not sure its the same for electric...
What do you mean "let it sit for a few minutes"? What do you think this is? A god damn steak? 😂
Watch it again...the strings were already loosened completely.
that's a complete myth. You should be careful about it only if you have vintage hardware of dubious quality, because the backlash might cause a gear to crack or the like. The neck doesn't give two fucks about "shock".
Bro that guitar is really beautiful, I wish I had it 😭
Dude just committed more guitar sins than i can count. DONT cut strings under tension. DONT wrap around the post(its extremely annoying removing and puts way more tension than needed)
They weren't under tension he literally pinched the strings they were lose
Looked like enough tension to me.
The point being that over time this practice can cause the neck to warp and crack especially if the guitar is older and fragile.
This method will also cause a negative affect to string action.
This causes more frequent and unnecessary truss rod adjustment
This is probably less noticeable on a brand new or well made guitar but the affect is still present.
A better technique is to avoid dramatic changes to neck tension by just changing one string at a time.
Twisting the string like that will place unnecessary tension on the winding of the string, causing it to unravel and break prematurely.
I'm just getting back into playing guitar the past few weeks and have been learning a lot that I never bothered to when I was younger. One of the things I've been meaning to look up was the "correct" way to string a guitar. If the way he does it in this video is not the best way what would a better option be? If you have a link to a good video showing how that also explains why that would be awesome. Thanks!
Stop crying about removing the loop. So, it takes a few more seconds. So what
Yeah, a longer wrap totally helps with tuning stability, just ask a flof rose trem with a locking nut.
I do love the Flof Rose tremlo, I feel his brother Floyd gets way too much attention.
LOL! - Cheers
Don't take all the strings off at once!!
I second that! One at a time!
Because the neck was manufactured with strings on. And the tree grew with strings on. And the steel from the truss rod came from the foundry to the production with strings on.
Right?
It doesn’t matter.
Thank you for this video, thats the way the factory did it at my mandolin but i couldnt figure out how to copy them 👍👍👍
Do not string your guitar like this.
You will damage the neck.
This guy sounds like a poser.
Do not listen. There is no great advice in this video. If bro is a professional, he must be trolling as only a truly basic person would provide this advice.
Exactly, I was always taught to do one string at a time😅 to keep tension on the rod/neck🤷🏻
I'm just getting back into playing guitar the past few weeks and have been learning a lot that I never bothered to when I was younger. One of the things I've been meaning to look up was the "correct" way to string a guitar. If the way he does it in this video is not the best way what would a better option be? If you have a link to a good video showing how that also explains why that would be awesome. Thanks!
@@LukeCroft-r7lthis is not necessary.
@@ViaticalTreeWell then what is Mr. Smarty-pants? Don't just say "not necessary" and then not give any alternatives or solutions. Ya donk 😂
@@TheMegaGamingWizard Alternatives or solutions to what? What’s the problem you think exists? Taking all the strings off at the same time doesn’t hurt your guitar.
Put in string, pull back the length of the first fret, lock the string by bending it up, wind the string whilst pushing the string down.
That is how I do it, but to each their own.
I solved string changing annoyance by putting locking tuners on my guitars. I line up the post holes so I can pull the string straight through, pull until there's no slack (not tightly), lock the tuner, and tune up! I can change strings in like 3 minutes. Locking tuners are a godsend.
I only do this my unwound strings. The wound strings bite on themselves and create an appropriate amount of stability. Unwound steel strings don’t have that luxury, so locking it between an over and under wind works great.
On a Floyd rise try stringing in reverse! Ball end at the stock! Just cut off about 5”-7” on the straight end,lock it in then wind to tune! I’ve been doing it this way for 25 years! Ultra
Love this tip. Thank you.❤
That guitar is beautiful!
Thank you. I just got an Epiphone LP and the first time I restrung it it got the lengths wrong. Second time not too shabby but this technique looks very helpful. Thank you
That's the best technique! Use it all the time
YES!!! Finally someone showing the absolute best way to do it! Bee doing this for years tryto explain why it’s the best way for non locking tuners and some friends still dont understand 🤣🤣
Never had a guitar not hold tune, and I just wind on with the 'through end' under the windings. Has worked for me for 40 years.
All string pegs should be open slotted. You can loosen all pegs slightly, pull all strings straight up and off in seconds to do whatever ( clean fretboard, vacuum out body, or on electric pull off pickguard), then put strings straight back down in seconds and retune. BTW there is no need to lock strings on an acoustic guitars and guitars with no vibrato bar. BTW 'Tremolo' is amplitude modulation AM, Vibrato is Frequency modulation FM. a Leslie speaker is AM/FM. As is the Theater Pipe Organ Tremulent it imitates. Which was Don Leslie's motive. Check out pics of the first LESLIE 30A speaker cabinets. The first Leslie horns found in the 30A cabinets were made of paper mache and a block of wood. Note only one horn speaks . The other horn is for balance.
There's gonna be some string twist if the ball end is already fixed. Worse is there'd probably be some unwinding for the wrapped strings 3-6.