When you mentioned that it wasn’t worth it for Annie Sanders to do the move slowly, I remember Matt Groom asked her afterwards about why she was trying to static everything, and she said it was to save skin (I think she even bled on a subsequent boulder because it was so worn). She ended up with gold so probably worth it in the end
Great content as always! Regarding Miho at 5:05 , keeping her leg tucked will also reduce the force needed to hold the swing when she hits the red egg.
Honestly, I'm new to climbing and I'm not sure what I'm doing. But I love the analytical part of what you search for in climbs. It's really interesting food for thought. I'm definitely one that learns more from seeing others success. Thank you for the breakdown. ❤
epic video!! for the first move there was always also a really nice left foot smear going on, for an extra pivot point! and also erin and annie are primarily lead climbers, so it makes sense for them to static the move because of endless endurance haha! i really love your videos!
nice observation! i didn't know Erin was a lead specialist!! cause she looks so powerful and comfy on brutal boulders! and yessss it's so fun watching Annie static-ing dynamic moves 😂 thank you! im glad you enjoyed the video!
Comment on at 5:49, where you suggest the left pogo/kick in order to generate the upwards and left-ward distance to reach the next hold. I think this is a bit worse than the method of pushing off the right foot due to not the momentum generated at the start (it seems pretty similar), but rather the final momentum achieved. If you pogo with the left foot, it seems to send you first to the left, then upwards. This results in you hitting the final hold with little leftwards momentum, meaning the sloper is harder to engage on. Meanwhile, with the right foot jump, its more of an up first, then left after, resulting in more leftwards momentum when contacting the next hold. This is more optimal as it allows you to engage and pull harder onto the sloper. One can think about the max amount you can pull on hold with some force analysis. Friction is proportional to the normal force, so ideally you want to maximize the normal. Pulling on the right facing sloper will always result in gaining momentum to the right. If you have more leftwards momentum when hitting the sloper, you can thus pull on it harder and for longer before going back to the right (where the sloper becomes bad). I've been loving your content and analysis and would love to hear your insight on this part and whether you agree or disagree with my thoughts!
first off thank you for taking the time to share your analysis!! 🙏🏻 really interesting point about different momentums (initial vs final)!! you're right that delaying the leftwards momentum would help with more final leftwards momentum which is beneficial for the sloper, i can also see it work if the initial leftwards momentum is large enough to place the COG on the right of the sloper eventually! for me ive always thought that the move felt awkward, (left pogo into right hand catch) it's more intuitive for moves that pogo into the same limb (left pogo to left hand) I think especially for a cross, it's a bit more awkward because pogo-ing left requires your hips to be square/facing the left but for a right hand cross, most of the time your torso will want to tilt slightly to the right so it becomes a bit weird and twisty where your hips want to face one direction while your torso wants to face the other 😅
@@ClimbVibes Very interesting insight on the opposed limb pogos! I also have trouble working it out in my mind/body. I think what you said about the weird twisty motion actually makes a lot of sense in how to make it work, maybe ill try it next time I get a chance. Looking forwards to the next video! 👍
Incredible breakdown, subbed! What do you use the draw the lines in the video (like the centre of gravity lines)? Would love to start analysing my own climbing with it
thank you! for the animated lines in the video I use a video editor (da Vinci resolve) which is a bit overkill for just analysing your own climbs personally, I just pause/slow down at certain points of the video on my phone and imagine the lines, if you need to draw something to help visualise, maybe taking a screenshot, and most phone gallery apps should have a tool that lets you doodle on pictures
The send help clip is sputnik legazpi! I managed to send that Boulder by jumping with my right leg as you mentioned instead of pogoing, but holding the swing was super hard anyways. What are the chances…. 😮
ooooh Spain!! YEA that cross move looks INTENSE setting a replica on my spray wall with a similar distance and hold profile, it was really difficult to demonstrate my points 😅 the gym looks beautiful!
On W1, it feels like the issue Calliet had was that the knee being so far out left meant she wasn’t rotating enough in the upper body. It could’ve been an independent issue, but I feel like she wasn’t in the right line of the best vector for the hold
I think I get what you're describing! left pogo with a clockwise torso rotation are kinda anti-synergistic, thank you for the subscribe! glad you enjoyed the video😬
Top tier content, as always! I really enjoyed the new section where you analyzed a fellow community member. Hoping to see more of this.
thank you Ashara! will definitely want to do more too, it was fun both to analyse and edit 😬
I love these videos !
im glad you enjoyed it!! 😬
Amazing content, love all the visual cues and the image stabilisation.
thank you! am glad you enjoyed the video POTATOSMASHER 🥔 ✊🏻💥
When you mentioned that it wasn’t worth it for Annie Sanders to do the move slowly, I remember Matt Groom asked her afterwards about why she was trying to static everything, and she said it was to save skin (I think she even bled on a subsequent boulder because it was so worn). She ended up with gold so probably worth it in the end
oh this is a super good point, insane that she pulled through (slowly and steadily) under those conditions
Great editing and insight! Looking forward to the next one 😊
thank you for the nice words!! glad you enjoyed it! 🙏🏻
BEST CLIMBING TECHNIQUE CHANNEL OAT!!! Love the videos they are inspiring and help with my goals in climbing so very much!!
THANK YOU KING SAJ i will continue striving to be the best oat 👩🏻🌾🌾
Great content as always! Regarding Miho at 5:05 , keeping her leg tucked will also reduce the force needed to hold the swing when she hits the red egg.
that's very likely to be true!! thank you for the comment 😬
Honestly, I'm new to climbing and I'm not sure what I'm doing. But I love the analytical part of what you search for in climbs. It's really interesting food for thought. I'm definitely one that learns more from seeing others success. Thank you for the breakdown. ❤
you are very welcome! im stoked that you've found value in my content, welcome to climbing and enjoy the ride!! 🎢
epic video!! for the first move there was always also a really nice left foot smear going on, for an extra pivot point! and also erin and annie are primarily lead climbers, so it makes sense for them to static the move because of endless endurance haha! i really love your videos!
nice observation!
i didn't know Erin was a lead specialist!! cause she looks so powerful and comfy on brutal boulders! and yessss it's so fun watching Annie static-ing dynamic moves 😂 thank you! im glad you enjoyed the video!
Comment on at 5:49, where you suggest the left pogo/kick in order to generate the upwards and left-ward distance to reach the next hold.
I think this is a bit worse than the method of pushing off the right foot due to not the momentum generated at the start (it seems pretty similar), but rather the final momentum achieved. If you pogo with the left foot, it seems to send you first to the left, then upwards. This results in you hitting the final hold with little leftwards momentum, meaning the sloper is harder to engage on. Meanwhile, with the right foot jump, its more of an up first, then left after, resulting in more leftwards momentum when contacting the next hold. This is more optimal as it allows you to engage and pull harder onto the sloper.
One can think about the max amount you can pull on hold with some force analysis. Friction is proportional to the normal force, so ideally you want to maximize the normal. Pulling on the right facing sloper will always result in gaining momentum to the right. If you have more leftwards momentum when hitting the sloper, you can thus pull on it harder and for longer before going back to the right (where the sloper becomes bad).
I've been loving your content and analysis and would love to hear your insight on this part and whether you agree or disagree with my thoughts!
first off thank you for taking the time to share your analysis!! 🙏🏻
really interesting point about different momentums (initial vs final)!! you're right that delaying the leftwards momentum would help with more final leftwards momentum which is beneficial for the sloper,
i can also see it work if the initial leftwards momentum is large enough to place the COG on the right of the sloper eventually!
for me ive always thought that the move felt awkward, (left pogo into right hand catch)
it's more intuitive for moves that pogo into the same limb (left pogo to left hand)
I think especially for a cross, it's a bit more awkward because pogo-ing left requires your hips to be square/facing the left
but for a right hand cross, most of the time your torso will want to tilt slightly to the right
so it becomes a bit weird and twisty where your hips want to face one direction while your torso wants to face the other 😅
@@ClimbVibes Very interesting insight on the opposed limb pogos! I also have trouble working it out in my mind/body. I think what you said about the weird twisty motion actually makes a lot of sense in how to make it work, maybe ill try it next time I get a chance.
Looking forwards to the next video!
👍
Quality analysis!
thank you Ben!!
Banger video after banger video
next one will be bangest 💥
Incredible breakdown, subbed! What do you use the draw the lines in the video (like the centre of gravity lines)? Would love to start analysing my own climbing with it
thank you! for the animated lines in the video I use a video editor (da Vinci resolve) which is a bit overkill for just analysing your own climbs
personally, I just pause/slow down at certain points of the video on my phone and imagine the lines,
if you need to draw something to help visualise, maybe taking a screenshot, and most phone gallery apps should have a tool that lets you doodle on pictures
@@ClimbVibes Thanks!
The send help clip is sputnik legazpi! I managed to send that Boulder by jumping with my right leg as you mentioned instead of pogoing, but holding the swing was super hard anyways. What are the chances…. 😮
ooooh Spain!! YEA that cross move looks INTENSE setting a replica on my spray wall with a similar distance and hold profile, it was really difficult to demonstrate my points 😅 the gym looks beautiful!
On W1, it feels like the issue Calliet had was that the knee being so far out left meant she wasn’t rotating enough in the upper body. It could’ve been an independent issue, but I feel like she wasn’t in the right line of the best vector for the hold
I think I get what you're describing! left pogo with a clockwise torso rotation are kinda anti-synergistic, thank you for the subscribe! glad you enjoyed the video😬
I know it might be surprising but Erin isn't much taller than Natalia. 3cm according to their bio
oh that is surprising!!
pog
gers
IMMEDIATE subscribe.