Tandem Rappel - Trad Climbing Self-Rescue
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2023
- How to do a tandem rappel when trad climbing.
This video is part of a full online course: Self-Rescue and Problem Solving. Check it out:
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Having used similar systems in rope course rescue scenario's, I spot a big mistake/potential cause of problems: the prussik should be attached in the 'central' system, not on the climber itself. In the current setup, if - for some reason - the climber with the prussik slightly unweighs themselves, there is the potential for the prussik to slide up into the abseil device. You have to experience this once to realise why this is such a big issue.
Hi Fabian, thanks for your feedback. You're right. I once used this setup to rappel with 150+kg of haulbags during a big wall solo descent. When I stopped rappelling, the haulbags would continue rappelling themselves and it was very difficult to control because they were literally twice my weight. After that first rappel I switched to system where the prusik was attached to the central system, as you pointed out, which was much better with a heavy load!
This isn't an issue with climbers who are approximately the same weight, though.
There are many ways of connecting 2 climbers to one device. This video only shows one example of the setup, which is simple and works fairly well in many cases. There are pros and cons to every method, so we can't say that one is the 'right' way. I just thought this was a good one to share with people.
I would love to add a whole bunch of alternative methods in future videos (I'm a super-geek) to make this much more comprehensive. I appreciate your constructive feedback, thanks!
what "central system" means in this regard?
@@alessandroiotti8620 the system where the load of both climbers is fully shared. In the example, only the karabiner with abseil device shares the load
@@vdiffclimbing Even with climbers of similar weight, you can quickly end up in the problematic situation I mention (for sure not an edge case). Since you are demonstrating this method in a rescue-context, you should opt for applying a technique which minizes the risk for additional complications.
Thanks @@fabianpoels2728 . I have just been to a self-rescue course here in Italy on these topics. For descending with an injured partner we placed braking device on belay loop of our injured partner located above me. I connected myself to the injured partner with two opposing quickdraws (to keep distance short and avoid possible openings). I have prusik on my belay loop. I basically hang myselt directly to the belay loop of the injured partner which has breaking device on him. I decide speed of descending by releasing the prusik on my belay loop. We pratice the descend and it was smooth.
Does that sound right according to the complications you mention?
Step 1: Sling
Step 2: Struggle
I loved that haha.
Jokes aside, this was very interesting, thank you for the video.
Great courses on your site. Really appreciate the content.
Thanks!
Great video
👏👏👏