REW on MacOS - Introduction & Setup
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- This is a tutorial on getting started with Room EQ Wizard (REW) on MacOS. It's largely a walk through of Enrico Claudio's (from Rythmik Audio) guide that is posted on AVSForum.com.
00:00 - Intro
05:45 - Required Equipment
11:56 - Setup Walkthrough Begins
Here are the links mentioned during the video:
REW - www.roomeqwizard.com
Enrico Claudio Guide - www.avsforum.com/threads/rew-...
AustinJerry Guide - www.avsforum.com/threads/jerr...
You are saving lives my friend. Saved me so much time with this. The default current version of REW wasn’t loading even though it said it was for M1 Mac which is is what I am running. Just never finished installing and stalled. I got the latest beta from your recommendation and it worked great. Thanks a million.
Glad it helped! I got bitten by the dark mode thing too. The latest beta is great!! I really like the features John has added.
Hello Jeff, Thanks for the great video. I have an XTZ Pro II analyzer kit. Can I use the calibrated mic using this software? Should you point the microphone straight up? The manual for XTZ states point it at ear level where the tweeters are. Do you know if this mic will work with the minidsp which I am going to order the new flex? I am using this for a two channel with 2 subs. I was instructed to perform MSO first. Is this correct. Thanks for any help
As long as the mic has a calibration file for the 90° orientation, then I don't see why it wouldn't work. Point the mic at the ceiling, position it between where your ears would be, and ensure the 90° cal file is loaded in REW. The mic has nothing to do with the ability to use a miniDSP Flex; they are two different and unrelated things. miniDSP (the company) just conveniently sells both and the mics are very inexpensive.
If you're using the Flex to implement MSO via a subs+mains optimization, then I think it will work very well! I just don't personally have any experience doing that. All of my MSO use is focused on home theater. My home theater is also my 2-channel setup so I have to use a single config. Sorry i'm not much help on that particular use-case.
Thanks for the video. Having some issues. I have my MacBook Air attached to my Denon 8500 using the front HDMI (aux 1) using a usb c to hdmi cable I do not see the the Mac screen through the projector, just a purple screen. Then when I go into sound and output, I see the Denon 8500 but it is only AirPlay. Thoughts?
Try using an HDMI port on the back of the Denon. I've seen a ton of folks have issues with REW when using the front HDMI port.
Hey thanks for posting this super helpful video. It's probably one of the only few ones for Mac out there. I do have a 5.1 setup so should I be running Audyssey first and then take measurements using REW + UMIK? If so, my LCR is crossed at 80hz so anything below that will be sent to the Sub, should I run my LCR full range for the REW measurements or just turn the sub off and run as per your instructions?
There are reasons to measure before and/or after Audyssey, but it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish or fix. For example, the "sub distance tweak" requires measurements after Audyssey. Integrating multiple subs using a miniDSP device typically requires measuring before Audyssey (though there is an approach where you might want to run it after Audyssey). Let me know what you're trying to do and I can hopefully give you advice for your particular situation.
Running your LCR speakers as "large" or "full range" is almost never a good idea. It boils down to the fact that the best/correct locations for the LCR speakers is almost never *also* the best location for a sub. The ability to put the subs in the locations that best address the room modes is critical to getting good sound in a home theater. It's not impossible to have full range LCR speakers and subs work well together, but it typically takes a LOT of effort to do it correctly.
@@jeffmery Thanks for the quick reply. I honestly don't have an objective in mind. I just delved into this hobby and currently running only one sub so hopefully keeping it simple for myself to begin with. All I was trying to do is see if I can make my speakers sounds better, honestly, I am very happy with the way my current system is sounding to me but I don't know what I don't know. For now my LCR are crossed at 80 and set to small, I was confused whether I should change that just for the REW measurements to see if at all I am crossing it where I should and get a sense of the speaker response full spectrum
@@kabirroshan3379 I understand now. Thank you. I think exploring the sound at differing crossover points is a great place to start. The key to learning in the shortest amount of time is to be very deliberate in your testing/experiments. Take a sweep, then change a single thing, then take another sweep and compare. So sweep at a crossover of 80, then change it to the next supported value by your gear. Make sure to name each of the measurements in REW so you can easily keep track of what is what (it gets VERY confusing VERY fast if you don't do this!).
You'll see the response change and be able to more easily compare what you're hearing. If you want to test the impact of a different change. Go back to a baseline and then start the new experiment.
I'm personally a very visual learner so "seeing is believing" for me. I just find it so much easier to connect the dots between changes.
@@jeffmery These charts look terrible from what yours are. How can I fix this?
Currently running a 5.1. Chane A2.4 LCR, Neumi BS5 Surrounds, PB 1000 Pro and Denon 750H. My room is far from ideal and have very limited placement options both for speakers and the sub.
Any insights on what can be done to improve what I have here? REM + UMIK1 only for the LCR + Sub for now, Var smoothing for the LCR and no smoothing to the subs. I did set my AVR to Pure Direct for these measurements. I did run Audyssey prior these measurements, set my LCR to small and crossed them at 80. Looking at these charts makes me wonder am I listening to crap after all the time and money invested? Any thoughts/suggestions
imgur.com/gallery/5CpCwqe
@@kabirroshan3379 First of all, don't beat yourself up! Second, don't get caught "chasing the dragon" of the "perfect" measured response. I could absolutely EQ my room to measure perfectly, but I can tell you it will sound bad! There are consequences to equalization (beyond the scope of this conversation). Additionally, it's highly unlikely that any room is ideal unless you designed and built the room from the ground up to be a dedicated home theater. My room was not built/designed that way either.
The responses are all pretty reasonable above ~200 Hz. This is very common and is in the range of the Shroeder frequency (aka "transition" frequency). This is where we hear the room more than the speakers. The specific frequency varies depending on the room. The problem is that below 200 Hz, and especially below 100 Hz, we're dealing with very long wavelengths that can be hard to treat.
The most cost effective way to improve this area is by making sure the sub is in the best position. You said the available positions are limited, but It would be good to measure the sub in each possible location to verify that. Sometimes just turning a sub so the driver faces a different direction can give a meaningful improvement.
Another item that can help are bass traps. Bass traps are a form of acoustic treatment that will help to control some of the low-end response. The downside is that they are 1) pretty big and 2) need to go in specific locations for the best results. This may or may not be feasible in your room. I also think, that if I'm going to tell someone to spend money, that the option below is really the best approach (but it is not cheap).
Unfortunately, we're fighting physics and a single sub is not likely to get us what we want. This is especially true for a good frequency response across multiple seating positions (e.g., across a couch). The most effective way to get a good response is to add more subs and the necessary equipment to properly integrate them with one another and then with the main channels. Ideally the second sub is identical to the first. It doesn't look like your AVR has the ability to properly integrate multiple subs, so you would also need something like a miniDSP 2x4, or 2x4 HD, to implement the changes.
You could go with just a miniDSP 2x4 (or 2x4 HD) and use that to better equalize the existing sub. It will not get things perfect, but should improve the response. If it's not enough, you could look into adding a second sub later on. Going miniDSP first and then sub is definitely more cost effective.
This is already a long comment, but I'll leave you with this last bit. My response is good because I spent a *ton* of time (and money) to improve it. I have 4 x 15" Rythmik subs that are placed to give the best response possible. I spent literally weeks learning to measure properly, learning to use REW to EQ subs, getting fed up and learning to use and implement MSO. Then more weeks measuring and combining things in various ways to figure out what works best in my room, with my equipment. So again, don't beat yourself up comparing your response to someone else's. We all started somewhere! (my response was WAY worse than yours when I started out)
Very helpful video. Thanks for posting. But I am having a problem running REW on my Mac which is running Monterey 12.0.1. After I instal everything and make my cable connects (UMIK-2 cable to MacBook Pro, HDMI from back of Anthem AVM-60 pre-pro to Mac Book Pro using a dongle with HDMI to USB-C adaptor). I can seem to run a pink notice test to see if my level are correct. I hit the play button and no sound comes out my speakers (Klipsch RF-7III). Please help!
That's a bummer! The first thing to check is to make sure the AVM-60 shows up in the "Audio MIDI Setup" app. It might have a name or just be called "HDMI". You should be able to see it there and set the speaker config to match your base layer (5.1, 7.1, etc). Next, make sure the sample rate is set properly to 48 kHz on that output as well.
While you're in that app, double check that the UMIK-2 is also set to 48 kHz.
Once that's done, open REW and check the preferences pane. Make sure that "Output Device" is set to the same device name that shows up in the Audio MIDI app. Under the "Output Device" setting, make sure that "Output" is set to "SPEAKER" and not "Default Device". Also make sure the sample rate is 48 kHz.
You should do the Audio MIDI stuff with REW closed completely and not running. Once the Mac sees the AVR properly, then open REW and verify all of those settings. I've been bitten a few times by the REW output device and REW sample rate myself.
As a Mac user, Thanks for making this! Question about the channels under the midi settings if Im running a 5."2".4 set u do I select 9 channels? just curious cause you selected 8, was wondering what your configuration was. I dont see a Dolby Atmos configuration either. should I just pick 7.1? little lost here what I should do.
You're welcome :-).
REW can't address Atmos speakers so select the appropriate number for your base layer. That would be 5.1 or 6 total channels. I use 7.1 for my 7.4.4 setup. Your 2 subs should be sent the same signal. The AVR/Processor only has 1 LFE channel and generally isn't aware of the additional subs. This is true when we use something external like a miniDSP to align, and optionally EQ, multiple subs.
More advanced processors have the ability to natively align and EQ multiple subs. These systems can do a really good job but aren't foolproof by any means. Audyssey Sub EQ XT, for example, almost always needs further adjustment via the "sub distance tweak" to eliminate phase-induced cancellation at the crossover point. Diracs DLBC does a good job too, but it sometimes takes a lot of fiddling with crossover frequencies on the speaker pairs to find the best value.
It's always good to have a trust-but-verify approach to things.
@@jeffmery thanks for the quick reply! One other thing I forgot to ask… what do you have your AVR set to as far as audio? I’d assume “direct”, or would I set it to “stereo”?
Also I completely agree while things like Dirac, Audyssey they are fantastic tools, but it’s always good to dive deeper and look under the hood to make sure everything is working correctly. Double check the distances like you said for the sub etc… I only have MCACC advanced on my Pioneer VSX-LX504 truth be told I think it sounds fantastic but I’m stuck with using global crossovers. Anyways I picked up a mini DSP HD to properly align my 2 HSU ULS-15 mk 2s… I tried a few times with REW unfortunately nobody had a video like this up for the Mac OS as far as initial set up. So I kind of put it aside and was pleasantly surprised coming across your channel and video! So thank you again for the help! I will be toying around with this tomorrow.
@@Paranimal86 On my processor, I turn off Dirac and zero out the sub distances and levels. I don't bother with "direct" or anything like that. On my previous Yamaha, I cleared out the YPAO settings completely (deleted the calibration), and then did the same on the sub distances/levels. Once the subs were aligned, I then run the room correction calibration process. With YPAO, like Audyssey and MCACC, you then need to verify the sub integration with the center channel and adjusted the sub distance in the AVR to eliminate any dip at the crossover (aka sub distance tweak).
YPAO and MCACC have similar limitations (at least prior to the newest, high-end Yamaha AVRs). The main one is that you can't define a custom target curve or apply a house curve within the room correction software. I would suggest initially EQ-ing your subs to flat, with no house curve. Then run MCACC and perform the sub distance tweak. Once that is all done, you can add the house curve.
I personally prefer to use a simple low-shelf filter on the input-side of the miniDSP. This is something you can play with. However, a good starting point is a center frequency of 47 Hz and something like 5 dB of gain. Leave the Q at 0.707 or make sure the Q is set to that value. You can then experiment real-time with both the amount of gain and the center frequency of the shelf. Gain is self explanatory, but the center frequency determines where the gain starts to be applied. You'll see the shape of the curve when you create the filter so it will make sense when you implement it. The thing that I tend to listen for is the sound of male voices. If they start to get really boomy or chesty, then that tells me i'm getting the center a little too high for my personal liking.
I want to do a video on the sub distance tweak and house curves. My system isn't really setup to do that at the moment though. I've got some changes coming soon-ish and will use that as an opportunity to reconfigure things and shoot those videos.
@@jeffmery Wow thanks for taking the time for that in depth explanation. Im struggling a bit with wrapping my head around some of this.
I've done a couple quick measurements running through your tutorial, but I have my system currently calibrated with MCACC so Ill have to 0 that out and start fresh... Im mainly worried about sub calibration, Im running 2 HSU ULS-15 MK 2 Subs, my goal is to eliminate a large dip I have at 37hz to 52hz which I have a large V shaped dip.. at (37hz im hitting about 99dbs) bottoms out at (45hz at 76dbs) and back up to (52hz at 88hz). I have second dip after this at 55hz to 65hz but its a bit smaller.
This isnt my first run at REW but I never had it fully set up right using Mac OS. Ive measured similar results prior tinkering around with REW in the past. It seems like no matter what I adjust on the mini dsp HD or where I move my sub or subs I have that same dip. Even with independent measurements of each subs that dip seems to appear near or around those frequencies.
It leads me to believe Im having some sort of room mode issue. Its a dedicated basement theater the dimensions are roughly 17' by 20' I have my tv against the shorter wall with the subs up front, its not perfectly rectangular do to the stairs coming down the long side along the wall but its closed off form the rest of the basement and upstairs. The walls are NOT dry wall, but made of a fiberglass insulation wrapped with fabric (Owens Corning basement finishing systems) which gives it nice acoustic properties. I have very little sound bounce if any with the mid to high frequencies. However Im wondering if it may be an issue with the concrete walls behind the insulation, as I know the fiberglass walls are not nearly thick enough to absorb Low frequencies. Maybe I need to get some heavy duty bass traps? but Id like to see if I can correct it some other ways first.
Anyways thanks for taking your time to reply, im just an amateur at this level of calibration I dont have a lot of free time to tinker around, but every so often I give it a go. Im hoping I can resolve this some how.
@@Paranimal86 No worries at all. We all started from zero; some just started before others :-).
Those subs are quite capable and what you're describing definitely sound like room modes. Sub placement is the most powerful tool we have to address room modes. You might be able to address the room modes with proper alignment of the subs. If you can't, then you'd need to consider moving the subs to different locations, moving the listening position, or, as a last resort, adding more subs. I'm a big fan of NOT spending money unless I have to, so let's avoid spending money if we can!
First things first - let's get some raw sweeps of your subs in their current positions and see what we have to work with. It would also help to understand specifically where the subs are on the front wall and where the main listening position is. Photos are great if you're comfortable. You can send the measurements and photos to jeff at bisonhta dot com and we can take a deep look at things together.
The concrete exterior walls are termed "non-resilient" in acoustic speak. That means they have no give to them which makes room modes (both the peaks and nulls) stronger than stick-based construction. Don't kid yourself though, I'm super jealous of all you guys with basement theaters! That really isn't much of a thing in most of Texas ;-).
Hey Jeff - I have a MacBook M1 and for the life of me can't get multi channel out - the only option in the midi setup is 2ch when connected to my Denon AVR. Any ideas or suggestions??
I’m using an M1 as well now. No problems. I don’t have a Denon to play with. However, I recently read that you may need to force Denon AVRs into a multi channel mode on the input you’re using. I have also seen people have problems using the front-panel HDMI input. Using a rear input is recommended.
Nicely Done.
When using an iMac, came I use a usb to hdmi cable or the 3.5 headphone out to the mic input on the avr receiver ? Is one better than the other
Thanks
USB-C or Thunderbolt to HDMI is the best option. I've used them across a number of different Macs with no major issues.
Output from the headphone jack will work, but you only get 2 channels available to sweep. Additionally, the volume is more fiddly to narrow down as you have gain on the iMac and gain on the target device (AVR, Processor, etc) to figure out without clipping the signal.
@@jeffmery Thanks. My late 2013 iMac has Thunderbolt & usb. All I see on amazon is mini display port to hdmi or maybe I can use a usb a to usb c cable ?
I know it's old but still working well .
or usb a to usb c adapter with a usb c to hdmi cable might be better.
@@deadline7610 You should be able to find an old-school Thunderbolt -> HDMI connector. Like this one that has the older Thunderbolt connector: www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Adapter/dp/B00NH13K8S. The new ones are all the USB-C compatible.
A USB-A to USB-C to HDMI might work, but I've never tested it so I can't be certain. The issue comes down to bandwidth and how sensitive things will be to the USB-A limitation. The adapter linked above is a better way to go if that's an option for you. Of course ... it won't hurt to test the A -> C -> HDMI if you already have those adapters. If it works, great, if not, you know what you need.
I have an old windows laptop. Does Austin Jerry’s how to talk about how to configure a windows laptop?
It does! In fact, nearly the first half of the document is a Windows walk-through. Windows is definitely more complicated due to the ASIO drivers. If you have trouble with ASIO, FlexASIO is an option I see recommended quite a bit.
Jeff, great video! One question in the "How Will It All Fit Togther" section (starts around 9:30).
For people with a home recording studio they want to test (Mac, audio interface, powered studio monitors) like this:
omnidirectional test mic with XLR cable --> audio interface (also provides phantom power for the mic)
audio interface Mac (via single thunderbolt cable)
audio interface --> L/R powered studio monitors (via balanced line cables)
Can/should the Mac both run the REW software and be part of the "receiver" - for me, the "receiver" would seem to be the Mac + audio interface - to fit into your diagram. Note I do have a second Mac and audio interface to serve on the mic side of things and run REW, if the computer involved in amplifying the test signal should not be the same as the computer taking the mic input and running REW (to avoid as much CPU latency as possible, I would guess.)
Also note, I'm aware that the monitoring of the mic input will need to be off so no mic input will be fed to the monitors (which would be adding extra sound, which would be a false measurement and might even feed back in the monitors.)
Great question, but definitely an area where I'm not experienced. That being said, this should work exactly as you describe. On my desktop 2.1 setup, I've used the Mac for everything with an external DAC or Amp depending on what I was testing. The main difference is using a USB vs XLR mic.
When measuring it would be critical to ensure the mic you're using is calibrated and has a calibration file for use within REW. You may also need to check into the use of a soundcard calibration file as outlined here: www.roomeqwizard.com/betahelp/help_en-GB/html/calsoundcard.html
@@jeffmery Thanks, again. I do the have calibration file for the BeyerDynamic MM-1 mic (which REW was able to load) and will look into getting one for my Apollo Twin audio interface "soundcard."
@@JohnnyHands It appears possible to generate your own soundcard calibration file. Check the link I posted above, near the bottom half "Calibrating the Interface". Again ... not an expert here, but that's my interpretation.
I assume you worked this out, but just following up. I recently got a multi-mic rig with a Focusrite 18i20. What you describe above is absolutely fine. The soundcard calibration is pretty straight forward as well and there are several videos around on it.
The multi-input feature of REW is pretty cool if you haven't tried that with multiple mics. Costs $100 to upgrade but worth it if you have the need.
@@jeffmery I gave up, bought Sound ID Reference software. I haven’t done the needed sound reinforcement work yet to tame my listening environment, so I cant say how good it is. Thanks, for the follow-up.
How you did to connect the iMac to the receiver? HDMI cable with an adapter? Thank you!
I don't have that iMac any more so it was either direct or with an HDMI -> USB-C/Thunderbolt adapter. Make sure the one you purchase is at least HDMI 2.0b. Even though the audio is very low bandwidth, I had some issues with older HDMI 1.4 adapters I had laying around. I think the one I used most was from Anker and was maybe $15 on Amazon at the time.
I now use an M1 MacBook Pro that has a native HDMI port (no dongle/adapter needed).
Thank you for your reply and advice. 👍
Hi. I'm following ur setup but during the setup of my Audio MIDI App, the 8-ch options are not available for selection even thought my macbook pro (13" 2020) is connected to my Tonewinner AT-300 Processor with 7.1.4 setup. Any advise / solution i can try? Thank you.
I haven't worked with Tonewinner before. Two things I have seen that may help: ensure the processor is in a surround mode format or an all channel format and not forcing things to stereo, and try a different HDMI cable.
@@jeffmery Noted with thanks. I'll try a different HDMI and different adapter later. Tonewinner was setup in surround mode format so i dont think that the issue.
@@quantumacousticav If this is on a MacBook, I did have trouble with a few older HDMI adapters I had laying around. I picked up one from Anker on Amazon for about $15 that seemed to work well. Might be worth a shot. I upgraded to an M1 MacBook Pro a year or two ago that has HDMI built in so no longer need or use the adapters.
@@jeffmery Noted on the Anker adapter. Will go and buy one to test out shortly! Will update after testing! Thank you
Hi and thanks for the video ,i did all this but in the output i can not see speakers option but only my projectors name epson.I have connected my mac pro m1 with type c adapter to hdmi to my amp yamaha rx v775 and when i open my projector so i can see on screen what i am doing rew stop seeing my amp and seeing my projector.
That's an interesting one. I wonder if it has something to do with the way the Yamaha passes the HDMI information? I have run this against an RX-A1080 without issue. These will seem kind of basic, but I have to ask ... is the AVR turned on and the input from the computer to the AVR is selected? What happens if you temporarily disconnect the projector from the AVR? (you might need to disconnect and reconnect the laptop from the AVR after doing this).
@@jeffmery When I have the projector closed I can see the Yamaha but also in this case the output says the name of the Yamaha and not speakers ,and if I open the projector it stop seeing the amp and it see the projector.
@@themisparastatidis7862 Okay - I would leave the projector off and just have the AVR turned on. What do the "Audio MIDI Setup" settings look like with just the AVR connected and powered on? We can't share screenshots here but if you want, you can e-mail them to jeff at bisonhta dot com. That might make the troubleshooting process go faster.
I want to use rew for my 2.1 a stereo and a sub on the side.
REW will work just fine with a 2.1 setup! As long as your stereo has either HDMI or normal analogue inputs (for something like a CD player), you're good to go. If you need to use analogue inputs, just use a headphone -> RCA cable.
Can you link the post on the win drivers piece, I'm having major issues.
The best windows instructions I'm aware of are in the "AustinJerry Guide" linked in the video description above. Unfortunately I don't have any Windows systems that I can use to put a video together.
From what I've read, most of the frustration is with the ASIO driver as there are several to choose from and the configuration can vary as well.
I wish I could be more help here.
@@jeffmery no worries, appreciate the response. It is the ASIO driver, my outputs are listed as waveb1 waveb2 as opposed to hd audio out 1 etc, driving me nuts. I'll check that guide out, thanks for the link.
@@HeadlaRed Some folks on AVSForum seem to have better luck with FlexASIO over the regular ASIO. IIRC the Java driver is the driver of last resort.
What happens If under output it doesn’t show speaker, it only shows AVM70 and default device?
AVM70 is what you want. Devices identify themselves differently over HDMI. Sometimes you get good details, like you did, sometimes you don't. Do not use "default". That won't work.
@@jeffmery thank you for such a quick reply. I apologize, under “output device”, I DO have AVM70 selected but directly under that, which say “output”, in the video you state to make sure to select speaker. If you saying under that, AVM70 is also correct, then I apologize. I’m just don’t getting any output.
@@Lazarus.09 ahh. My mistake. “Speaker” should be what you want in the second drop down. You’re not going to break anything by trying the other options though. Don’t use an exotic channel to test output. Use L or output channel 1 to keep it simple until you have output.
Hopefully someone can answer this. Whenever I try to connect to mini DSP I get a pop-up message cannot connect DSP, please plug in the board. I have no idea what this means.
I assume the machine you're working on is connected via USB to the miniDSP device in question, and that the miniDSP is plugged in with a solid-blue LED light showing?
Also, I think Mac OS Ventura may prompt with a window to the affect of "do you want to allow this device to connect to this machine" type of warning. "Allow" needs to be selected in that prompt. I also think that if you didn't allow that, you can just unplug and remove the device to get it to show again.
Finally, if the miniDSP LED is flashing blue and not solid, it's either still booting up or something is wrong (if it never goes solid). I'd ping miniDSP support if you have the latter issue. It can be fixed, but it's a bit of a pain.
@@jeffmery yes it has a solid blue light and connected USB. I am running Mac Big Sur allow has been selected . I'm also waiting on a reply from DSP. The odd thing is I used this program on windows and wanted to switch to Mac. So out of frustration I tried it on my windows laptop and received the same message . Thanks for your reply
@@Dave-we1yl Okay that's all good then, except for the fact it doesn't show up for some unknown reason, of course. If you don't mind, let me know what you find out from miniDSP when you get it resolved.
@@jeffmery sorry to bother you again but I did notice that when I download mini DSP 2x4 Hd and run the software I get 2x4HD/flex is this the same or is it just for the flex?
@@Dave-we1yl That's the right thing for the 2x4HD. It also works with the Flex at least for now.
I still cant get my receiver to show on mac os, both macs same issue. I dont think its easier especially with all the bs dongles
I'm sorry you're having problems. My only suggestion is to make sure the HDMI cables are good. I did have some issues early on with dongles as well. Some of them are rated only to HDMI 1.4 but look the same as the newer ones rated for HDMI 2.0. It really shouldn't make a difference, but I have seen it cause issues. If you have a Denon/Marantz also make sure it's in a multi-channel mode and not stereo. I've seen those default to stereo and cause problems. Once it shows up in the AudioMIDI MacOS application properly you should be able to see and use it in REW. Oh it can also help to make sure your display remains off the entire time (believe this is part of the HDMI 1.4/2.0 issue above & the mac trying to push more bandwidth than the interconnect is rated. It was frustrating to figure out but it's been too long and I don't remember the details).
Unfortunately I have upgraded my MacBook to one with HDMI built in and don't have anything requiring a dongle to help troubleshoot.
@@jeffmery yeah I actually realized since it’s a work machine thats its probably more related to security since it’s a managed device. Think they have disabled certain functionality. Im just going to get a massive usb and use my personal workstation. I could move everything into the room where im taking measurements but it would be a royal PITA. Appreciate the feedback!
Permissions bug prevents the app from using a mic.
I'm sorry I can't help with this one. I would check the REW support forum over on AVNirvana.com.
Looks as though i fell at the first hurdle - no HDMI out from my 2015 imac....
You'll need a Thunderbolt -> HDMI adapter to use that one. Most Macs require some kind of adapter. I've used Thunderbolt and USB-C to HDMI adapters with good results.
I have 5.2 ?
This video is just about getting started with REW on MacOS. Are you looking to measure and align multiple subs in your setup? Let me know what you're trying to accomplish and I'll do my best to help out.
@@jeffmery In configure speaker didn't show 7.2 5.2 I shouldn't be concern about it at this point?
@@dandonna852 If your actual speaker config is 5.2, then there's nothing to worry about. If it's 7.x and only showing 5.x, then you'll need to figure out why. It could be a couple of things.
The first to check is the speaker config on the Mac. Make sure you are connected to your AVR or processor via an HDMI cable. Make sure the AVR/processor is turned on and that the input connected to the Mac is selected as the active input. Open the "Audio Midi Setup" app on your Mac. Your processor should be in the list on the left side. Select it, and then hit the "Configure Speakers" button on the bottom right. You should be able to change this setting to match your actual speaker config. 5.x or 7.x are both fine and work the same as long as it matches what you actually have.