Does the impeller blade cut stringy stuff and fishing line or is there some other countermeasure for that? I'm not even sure that is a problem for these units. thinking some fixed blades that were in front of the impeller, edge opposite of rotation would be useful. Looks good.
Before I heard you mention using steel as for a better intake I was gonna ask if I can make one of these out of 316 stainless because I can't weld DC at home. Thank you!
We have had it running for 1.5yr now. Only clogged it a few times during fall leaves in the water. Do wish I woulda done some kinda stomp grate, but since the boat is not strong enough to skip on gravel, we only deal with occasional weed clogs. With my shirt off, I can unclog it laying on the deck lol.
I used shims to float the engine as I slowly determined my angles and then welded up the mounts, and final shimmed with the shims that came on the ski mounts. The technique for alignment was fitting a dowel rod into the pump/prop so that when the pump was bolted tight to the intake, it showed me an exagerated view of the shaft angle and I literally eyed it up since it stuck out the back like 5ft making it easier by eye than by measuring. I go over this procedure in one of the videos.
Nice work but the only thing I would say is dont bother with 1/2 inch stock, not strong enough and will get bent in. make the grates out of 1 inch or even 1.5 inch as this part being larger/deeper will not in any way impede water flow as the water is already passing through, the water dont care if the grate bars are 1.5 inch deep as if flows into the intake. This grate is going to take a beating. The attachment plate on the front should go down into the intake, be larger and have more bolts, Allen head type attaching it. the back end of the intake tunnel where the grate bolts on should be at a 45 degree angle allowing for much larger back attachment plate with more bolts that are up in the tunnel and away from the bottom where they could be damaged by rocks etc. The intake grate assembly should form the front and back end of the intake tunnel shape so when the intake grate is bolted in the rear of the tunnel is 90 degrees to the bottom of the boat. This design gets the attachment bolts down away from the bottom and allows for many more bolts to be used. Look at it like this, dont design the intake tunnel then put a grate on it, design the intake tunnel and the grate to both be part of the intake tunnel shape. This allows the grate to be made a lot more heavy and thus able to withstand the abuse it is going to take. As it is now I'm afraid that intake grate might not last long and end up missing if it gets run in shallow water. ~
We will see how long it lasts. This is not a rock hull build, so if the grate takes a beating that would mean the hull has also. I did drift over part of a pebble bar and busted my transducer bracket, but the grate maintained shape even though I was drifting sideways. So for this particular boat and my location, the likely impacts will be during shallow drifting, as a hit at speed would leave bigger issues than the grate. That said, Im sure its going to get bent up and I will be taking your advise, thanks alot!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
Does the impeller blade cut stringy stuff and fishing line or is there some other countermeasure for that? I'm not even sure that is a problem for these units. thinking some fixed blades that were in front of the impeller, edge opposite of rotation would be useful. Looks good.
Before I heard you mention using steel as for a better intake I was gonna ask if I can make one of these out of 316 stainless because I can't weld DC at home. Thank you!
I would imagine that would be just fine!
I'll bet if you flare that intake you could add more pressure into the front of the pump ,
Magnifying out put pressure!!!
Coming along nicely.No clean out stomp grate?How are you going to clean leaves,bark or stones that get stuck in the grate?
We have had it running for 1.5yr now. Only clogged it a few times during fall leaves in the water. Do wish I woulda done some kinda stomp grate, but since the boat is not strong enough to skip on gravel, we only deal with occasional weed clogs. With my shirt off, I can unclog it laying on the deck lol.
You have to preheat it to 250/300 degrees before you weld It just a pro tip
Enjoyed your build man! How did you line your driveshaft and motor up properly? What was your trick or technique?
I used shims to float the engine as I slowly determined my angles and then welded up the mounts, and final shimmed with the shims that came on the ski mounts.
The technique for alignment was fitting a dowel rod into the pump/prop so that when the pump was bolted tight to the intake, it showed me an exagerated view of the shaft angle and I literally eyed it up since it stuck out the back like 5ft making it easier by eye than by measuring.
I go over this procedure in one of the videos.
Gooood jooob
How did you determine the measurements of the pump housing?
I didnt really. I kinda just eyed it
Ripptyde Vibes Thank you.
Nice work but the only thing I would say is dont bother with 1/2 inch stock, not strong enough and will get bent in. make the grates out of 1 inch or even 1.5 inch as this part being larger/deeper will not in any way impede water flow as the water is already passing through, the water dont care if the grate bars are 1.5 inch deep as if flows into the intake. This grate is going to take a beating.
The attachment plate on the front should go down into the intake, be larger and have more bolts, Allen head type attaching it. the back end of the intake tunnel where the grate bolts on should be at a 45 degree angle allowing for much larger back attachment plate with more bolts that are up in the tunnel and away from the bottom where they could be damaged by rocks etc. The intake grate assembly should form the front and back end of the intake tunnel shape so when the intake grate is bolted in the rear of the tunnel is 90 degrees to the bottom of the boat. This design gets the attachment bolts down away from the bottom and allows for many more bolts to be used.
Look at it like this, dont design the intake tunnel then put a grate on it, design the intake tunnel and the grate to both be part of the intake tunnel shape. This allows the grate to be made a lot more heavy and thus able to withstand the abuse it is going to take. As it is now I'm afraid that intake grate might not last long and end up missing if it gets run in shallow water.
~
We will see how long it lasts. This is not a rock hull build, so if the grate takes a beating that would mean the hull has also. I did drift over part of a pebble bar and busted my transducer bracket, but the grate maintained shape even though I was drifting sideways. So for this particular boat and my location, the likely impacts will be during shallow drifting, as a hit at speed would leave bigger issues than the grate. That said, Im sure its going to get bent up and I will be taking your advise, thanks alot!
how much is it worth when it comes to hass and props
been watching vids and stuff and... where do i get a jet engine? does it ever come standalone like that?
This is from a jet ski. Yes, you can buy inboard jet engines just like outboard engines.
Ripptyde Fishing i dont see the whole system being sold together with like diagrams of dimensions and stuff
You would probably have to contact the manufacturer for any type of CAD drawings if they are available
That’s the same question I asked for a 100 times now😂.