One or two little extra tips. If you get something the correct height to go underneath the bumper as you slide it back to support it (a builders bucket upside down is usually a good fit and there's no real weight on the bumper), you can actually slide the bumper out quite a way which gives you a lot of room to work. Also, nobody mentions, if you loosen off the two 10mm nuts a little holding the bottom of the wing seen underneath the side of the bonnet once slid back (next to the side headlamp 7mm nut) and also loosen the wing holding nut 10mm (on the bonnet bracket) and completely remove the other wing nut further towards the front of the car you can move the wing just a little but enough to give you plenty of room to remove the headlight SOOO easily. Its hell of a job to remove otherwise because the wing holds it in place there, near impossible to get out. By doing this I can remove one of these headlights in 15 minutes, not a big a job as you'd think.
Great video mate. Just about to tackle this with my dad on his insignia and this will no doubt make it easier. I much more prefer my older cars where it’s a 30 second job to remove a headlamp with no fragile clips etc! Videos like this make it so much easier on modern stuff.
If you're not taking the whole bumper off, make sure you don't put too much force into it when bending it around the light, I'd hate for you to crease the plastic bumper. Good luck getting yours sorted!
Might have to revisit this video a few times during this summer. I just bought an Insigna last week with condensation in both headlamps. I've had it go for a service a couple days ago and they said that it's a potential MOT failure and they quoted me over £600 to get new ones installed! It gives me some confidence that it's a job I can maybe do by myself for a fraction of the cost...
Thanks for that mate, made the job much quicker and easier for me. I noticed water in the lense before the ballast failed so luckily all I had to do was seal around the headlight. Price to repair was the cost of a tube of sealant. A tip I picked up from a BMW forum was to remove the covers from the inside until you get the chance to make the repair, the heat from the engine bay helps to evaporate the moisture and keep the lens clear. Probably what prevented the water getting down to my ballast.
@@arnoldrimmer9161 The covers you remove to change the bulbs. It wont help if the water has already got down to the ballast but if you've caught it quick whip them off and get it fixed asap.
Great video thanks for doing that it made my life much easier. I did notice that the bulb you changed in your other video for the drivers side was a "D1s" but the ballast you have for the Passenger side says "D3s", that maybe why you still got the error even though it worked. Thanks again for taking the time to make our lives a little easier!
Glad it helped, maybe that was an issue, but i thought i replaced it with what i took out... I'll recheck next time... Thanks for the nice comment too, much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video. I got a ballast for £30 and bulbs for £21 plus a tube of sealant for around a tenner, dismantled the headlamp and dried it out with a fan while the parts were en route from Amazon, and reassembled it all successfully. As expected I still get the error message due to the cheapo ballast unit, but I can press a button as well as anyone!
@@bobgriffiths Update: I removed the driver's side headlamp earlier in the week and applied sealant to the join between the lens and cover. Hopefully that will prevent the same happening to that side. This morning I received a genuine Hella ballast unit from EBay for £95 and fitted it to the nearside headlamp. That has got rid of the "check left dipped beam" error messages :-) It's easier third time around. Job all done in an hour! I also refitted the original Phillips bulbs as I preferred their colour temperature, so I now have a spare ballast and 2 spare bulbs. What's not to like! For the record, a short piece of 2x4 jammed between the bumper and the front panel keeps it out of the way nicely when you're removing and replacing the headlamp screws.
Great vid. In addition to exchanging the ballast (which I had to do): pay great attention to the female connector (high voltage contact) located on the lamp housing. In my case it was loose, hence no contact when installing ballast (was pushed in - easy to miss, it came out again when the ballast was removed). I pushed the connector from the back, creating the expected fit. Then everything worked again!
1 piece of advice, I have an Opel Insignia sport tourer 4 x 4 2.0 CDTI 160 CV, I advise you to remove the screw which is located under the headlight, it is screwed into a metal bracket, you will also have to bend this so as not to become a nuisance! I explain why it is necessary to remove this screw, I was hit by another vehicle which damaged the bumper, I had my garage repair the bodywork, but they did not see the problem with the headlight , during the impact, the tab and the screw moved and a large part of the plastic of the headlight (below, near the ballast) was broken, no one saw it, on the other hand, when there was the first heavy rain and that I drove in the rain, I had a headlight fault, the next day, I removed the headlight and I noticed that the headlight was filled with water, especially the ballast which is underneath, as the ballast is at the lowest point of the lighthouse, the water which entered from below the lighthouse drowned the ballast! I remind you that the ballast is expensive, and you should not buy the ballast made in China, you must at all costs buy the ballast in the video, a real piece, not a copy from Turkey or China, otherwise, so be it works but with defects, or not at all!! the xenon bulb costs 208 euros in my garage, the ballast 390 euros and the headlight without bulb and without ballast 1890 euros!! so for a simple screw, remove this damn screw!!
Tidy video thanks. Hopefully I can do the same as I have the same problem. I did see other references to water in the ballast. The guy replaced it with one that cost well over £100 and when it didn't sort the error messages he checked the number. Even though it was sold to him as a direct replacement and worked OK when he checked the numbers on it they were different. Where did you get your ballast?
@@jimedwards7349 I got mine from Ebay for around £45 and they were the same number on the part. I know they are different sometimes as voltage ratings are different on some..
Hi. I believe You used ballast from Insignia after lift (>2013) maybe that's why You are getting error message. Mine was also flooded but i bought 009 720-00 version and i have Insignia from 2011. Cheers
Hi i just use contact cleaner, you can buy it in a spray can from sellers on ebay for a good price. It jsut degreases the contacts and leaves them neater after you've brushed them a little. Hope this helps you out. Thanks.
Hello, the right side headlight had some condensation at first and the bulb went out and shortly after that the drl light also started flickering and went out. I bought new xenon bulbs but that wasnt the problem until i noticed that the ballast was full of water. the thing is my xenon light works now but my drl is not turning on (right side) could it be that the led module is fried from the water damage? Should i just replace the whole headlight or is it better to just try and find a new drl module? Im thankful for any answers!
Sorry but I wouldn't want to recommend any course of action that might cost you more money with no guarantee of working, I think it's probably wise to seek assistance from a mechanic or a professional car repairing person. I suspect that the drl has been damaged by the water in the headlamp bt I don't know where to get another. Apologies, I hope you get it sorted.
I'm having this issue, but on the facelift model where the ballast is mounted to the side. The xenon is flickering and not staying on. Moisture has made its way inside the cluster which I've dried out several times now with a hairdryer. It hasn't solved the problem though. Any idea what could be damaged?
It might not be the ballast if it's side mounted and less likely to have water ingress. Maybe there is an issue with the bulb if it's been wet in there. Might be worth trying to seal the unit up...
Thanks for info. Lucky me, I get to enjoy a second problem on my Insignia from design fault(already done the ubiquitous EGR cooler leak). Quick question, mines been suffering with the AFL error before the ballast packed up, do you know if there is anything to look for while the lamp is out (wiring etc), that might be the cause of it ? Also I'm going to seal my headlamp after drying it with some flo plast glue for plastic plumbing pipes I've got. Its watertight as I used in my recent bathroom renovation on the new drainage pipes. It might give a longer lasting seal, who knows ?
That floplast is good stuff, I used it on plastic conduit when I made an ED209 costume for comicon. Held it together a treat. MY AFL was complaining before the ballast went, it's likely to be water getting into the mechanism of the AFL system and removing the water and sealing it up might prevent it from coming back. The AFL issues stopped on mine after I did this sealing up. I wish you luck and hope the floplast does a good job on it. Cheers.
@@bobgriffithsRemoved headlight and was exactly as you said, water came dripping out of the ballast, all the pins and sockets drenched. Thanks again for heads up, saved a packet doing it myself again. Glad there are those out there like yourself willing to have a go!
@@bertbox69 following on from that after it was drenched did you have to replace the whole unit or were you able to dry it out and fit the new ballast? Did everything go according to plan hope to do this to mine as went the hard route last mot on the other side :/
Thanks, I don't know what the 2015 Facelift looks like but I'd imagine that it might be similar. If you're unsure take it to a garage or a professional mechanic. Thanks for stopping by.
@bobgriffiths thanks for the reply, I'll work it out, was just wondering before I start , I do my own work , like timing belt, water pump , aux belt and so on so I'll manage
Hi @unibob! I just received new ballast and bulbs, changed everything and still does not work. Do you think it was not good idea to spray plug on the lamp where new ballast comes connected with WD-40? Also in my case ballast was full of water. I was so excited that I have solved the issue now with lot less money than I would give to professionals. But luck is not on my side I guess. Any ideas?
I wouldn't personally have sprayed WD40 in there but you're free to do whatever you like. I don't think that it's conductive so you won't have done any real damage I don't think.It could be a number of things really, worth checking fuses etc (not trying to be condescending) and you may have been sold a ballast that was Dead On Arrival (DoA) you could swap it into the other headlamp to see if it is dead but that's gonna be a pain.. If you're still having issues go back to the ballast provider and ask them if they can replace the one you were sent. Just what I would do, doesn't necessarily make it the right thing to do. Hope you get to the bottom of it and get it all back up and running.
@@bobgriffiths I am sorry. I did solve it. I unmounted working headlamp and changed ballast and it was working. Then I have checked your video and I saw your remark about the checking the fuses... So, I checked and F49 was burned. Now everything works! Thanks again for the video!
So does bolt at the bottom of the headlight have to be screwed from the bottom or the top? Also does that get screwed in after all the other screws have been tightened? Thanks
Bolt underneath comes out downwards, using socket or spanner underneath it. If you can start it off first before putting the others in or inserting them all and starting them but not fully tightening them until they're all in it should be better positioned for you to find the bolt hole. Good luck.
Well lucky me finding your video, looks like I got the same problem changing the light bulb did nothing ( no i didn't touch the new bulb or tapped it), so I've ordered a new ballast in readiness for the headlight removal, got one that is for a Vauxhall Insignia 2013 elite so fingers crossed It will sort the the offside dipped headlight problem, well done Bob
@@bobgriffiths I removed the front bumper better access to everything and lucky I did because one of the push on brackets was not engaged, (from pervious paid garage work) I'm lucky enough to have the tools and facilities to work on the car and it doesn't look that complicated thanks to your help, yes I have water in the headlamp so before I fit the new Ballast, I will ensure that the headlamp is cleaned dry and then I will seal around the headlamp, Thanks guys for all your help and advice
Hi just doing this same thing now I took off headlight and have it drying by the fire. Will seal it later on. Just out of curiosity. How do you change the other bulb in the headlight...not the xenon one? Also is there a way to clean water marks off inside of lens?,? Thanks again
I can't remember now but I thought the side light just unscrewed on a bayonet fitting. I don't know how to clean water marks from the inside, maybe use some isopropyl alcohol while it's still off the car? Hope you get it sorted..
Look up a few more youtube videos on how to open them, it's better to do that rather tan break it. If it's well stuck , pop a spot of wd40 on the outside of the plug to soften the hardened dust. but don't soak it in the stuff... Good luck!!
I don't think you need to update anything in the ECU but if you have the right ballast it won't error. If you have a ballast that isn't 100% correct the right part number then it may give you an error even though it all still works.. Good luck with your repairs..
Does any one know exactly where the water gets in from? I have put silicon sealant all the way around the head light lens seal and still few weeks later water is starting go build up...........I have absolutely no idea where the heck it's coming in from????
If it's sealed in there it'll pool up and then cloud over, make sure you dry it thoroughly and then seal it up. I also had a crack in the top cover (the round one that twists off)
Hi @unibob this video is brilliant thank you, I have an 2010 insignia elite, I think it has the same lights as yours does, I noticed that when u press ur key fob the lights come on and adjust then settle. This probably isn't the right names for them but basically the drivers side headlamp, the ball bit inside, ( that moves and adjusts when you press the key fob ) it is permanently pointing to the left, its coming up on my dash to service the AFL light. Is this the problem you had? And would changing the ballast fix it? Any info would be really appricated thanks
I don't think that changing the ballast would help, I think it's likely to be the AFL controller or mechanical mechanism that's causing the issue with the light being stuck one way. Sorry. Good luck getting it fixed.
@@bobgriffiths thanks for your help, do you think then its going to be better to replace the whole headlamp unit then? Rather than try to replace different parts inside?
I have a 61 plate insignia VXR . comes up with 2 errors . #01 . Headlight levelling malfunction. #02 Service AFL lamp. All light seem to work ok. A few weeks ago i had a clutch replacement and the battery got disconnected , is it possible it could be an old error code that has come up because it's been disconnected for a while. like i say everything works fine it's just annoying it comes up everytime i start the car up.
I've had that error if the headlight unit was open , might want to check that there's no obstruction in the headlamp blocking the mechanism... Thanks for stopping by.
Do you think it's possbile to dry the ballast out ? I was going to remove mine today, but there is probably little point if I will have to do it again to install the new device.
I don't think that mine would have dried out, they smelt like they had burnt out. It might be worth a try first, but it's a lot of hassle to try it and not work. HOpe you have some luck with it though.
@@bobgriffiths So we extracted the unit and it was spotless. Not a drop of water had entered. Now we're thinking it's the wiring interfact beneath the bulb housing.
In my 2010 Opel Insignia, I've already changed the ballast twice because it's filled with water and it damages my lights. The problem is that the issue keeps coming back. I don't believe that switching to a new headlight, despite spending more money, will resolve the problem. This car has many issues with water infiltrations and electronics. I think that a seal in this case around all the components of the headlight is the solution. But from what I've read, silicone is not advisable. They recommend plastic welding along the areas with air vents while performing a leak test. What do you think can be done? My mechanic has had the car since yesterday, and he's also not quite sure what to do because the solution of a new headlight is expensive for me, and buying the ballast and the light and replacing them will result in the same issue soon with water getting in. A lot of water enters the headlight, and it's not condensation; it's actual water accumulating at the bottom where the ballast is. Do you have any solutions on how to waterproof a headlight and all its components? And if it's cracked from some impact, is it possible to seal it? Thanks for all the help
I think the water gets in around the edges of the seal of the headlamp, just changing ballast will empty the water out but it will get back in. There are too many people with this issue to be a rare occasion so I recommend sealing it to prevent the issue reoccurring. If silicone isn't recommended then feel free to do plastic welding but it was easier and more instant for me to use silicone.
They were bright and had a blue tinge to them if coming towards you. They're great lights but prone to this water ingress issue. Not a great design really.
See the website for an explanation: www.powerbulbs.com/blog/2016/10/what-does-a-hid-ballast-do# It is a voltage regulator and helps build up the large voltages needed to get the bulbs lit up. Good luck with the job!
@@bobgriffiths thanks 👍 I think the name 'ballast' was throwing me off a bit, I was thinking ' ballast' as in extra weight for some reason and couldn't work out why extra weight would be needed for a headlamp! 🤦♂️ thanks again
Hey nice video, i have a similar issue - 2/3 parts of the headlight works, indicator and small light. I tried replacing the xenon bulb and getting a new balast, also letting it dry, i also sprayed wd40 to help get rid of the corroution on the connectors. still no luck. Should i try to change the wiring inside? or is it out of my hands now.
I've got to do this on my 2012 Insignia in an attempt to save £1300 for a new headlamp unit. 3 bulbs have gone including the Automatic Headlamp Leveling system. Will replace all bulbs and the ballast.
I think there are four, one on the top of the wing, one on the side of the wing, one in the front bumper and one under the lamp... I've missed the underneath one before now... It is in the video though.....
Great vid! Wanted to fix it myself too since the dealership wants to charge upwards of 2k for new headlights... The question is just how doable would you say this is for someone who has never worked on a modern car (last time I worked on a car was with my granddad on his lada) .. And is the issue still fixed to this day for you?
It's relatively straightforward to do if you have the right tools, in terms of sockets and torx bits etc... I sold the car not long after this so don't know if it remains ok today but it certainly lasted through a winter.
I don't think so, It's easier to bang a hair dryer in there and warm it up s that the water evaporates, make sure it has time to leave before you close it all up again. Thanks for the lovely comment too!!
Hi. Interesting video - Quick question - is this the xenon or halogen headlamp? My garage said that you can't replace the ballast only as it's a sealed unit and I need a whole new Bixenon/HID headlight. (They seem to be around 650£) so just checking as I'd prefer to repair.
you could replace the ballast alone, but if it leaks water into the headlight it will ruin it again. Best if you can to seal up the headlight unit and then replace ballast.. The ballast is a sealed unit stuck on the bottom of the headlamp unit but you can unscrew it and replace it. Good luck with it..
newry123 I did get rid of it. By part exing it for another car. Ha ha. I’m sure someone with a Vauxhall computer could reset it though. Sorry I can’t help further than that.
Hey, my died too with same problem. Did you daily led light worked when balast died? Because my xenon and daily led light not working because of water. Cheers.
hi, how do you know the correct part number for the ballast. Looked on ebay and mostly 5DV 009 720 00 Nothing in the hand book at all . See you had 5dv 009 932 00 cheers
The correct number will be on the ballast when you take it out. Best to get the same. I wish you good luck on this and hope that you might be helped even a little by my video. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment. Cheers.
Yes the correct ballast has 720 in the partnumber the others may work the bulb but don't have the functionality and could lead to a system warning after install..
Hi do not use sealant use hot temperature sealant, why u ask, its because these lights give off hot temperature, use head gasket sealer I e permatex sealant is ideal. Also dry out head light before fitting new balace or you will get water back into to the balace that you just replaced.
Good idea about the high temp sealant, I didn't have any so I just did my best with what I had to hand. the lamp was completely dry before I resealed it and fitted the ballast back, as you're right, the last thing you want to do is keep some of that pesky water in there to screw up the new ballast. thanks for the comment and take care!!
@bobgriffiths you must use high temperature sealant because the heat will only course water to leak back in the light, I found out the hard way, but after using high temperature sealant no leaks ever since. Tlc my friend.
I had same issue so i replaced the ballast with cheap ebay ones, £35. went to dealer as i had the same error, they said they dont need to re program the ECM. the error is due to them not being genuine modules. bummer, i guess if ya want the errors gone, its genuine parts only.
@@authentic7122 there are several revision letters - if not same ie ae,af etc will show lamp error. my 2011 elite is ae which i cannot seem to get anywhere - ive uses ad & af both cause error but work
It’s ridiculous to have to dismantle the front of the car. Same with my VW Touareg. These are consumable parts and should be a five minute job to replace.
@@bobgriffiths That’s exactly the reason why. Anyway! Just like to thank you and others like you that go out their way to help others with your videos. Your video was shared with my brother in law who’s having issues with water ingress to his Insignia headlight unit. As mentioned I have a 2013 VW Touareg that needed a new bulb fitted so I found a guy who posted his video for others to watch. I had to dismantle the front bumper to replace a blown xenon bulb. Whilst I was at it I fitted both bulbs as it seems when one has blown the other one seems to blow not long after the first one. Thanks again for your video. It was much appreciated. 👍
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One or two little extra tips. If you get something the correct height to go underneath the bumper as you slide it back to support it (a builders bucket upside down is usually a good fit and there's no real weight on the bumper), you can actually slide the bumper out quite a way which gives you a lot of room to work. Also, nobody mentions, if you loosen off the two 10mm nuts a little holding the bottom of the wing seen underneath the side of the bonnet once slid back (next to the side headlamp 7mm nut) and also loosen the wing holding nut 10mm (on the bonnet bracket) and completely remove the other wing nut further towards the front of the car you can move the wing just a little but enough to give you plenty of room to remove the headlight SOOO easily. Its hell of a job to remove otherwise because the wing holds it in place there, near impossible to get out. By doing this I can remove one of these headlights in 15 minutes, not a big a job as you'd think.
Great tip! Thanks Iorri!! If it helps people even more then that is fantastic. Cheers.
Great video mate. Just about to tackle this with my dad on his insignia and this will no doubt make it easier. I much more prefer my older cars where it’s a 30 second job to remove a headlamp with no fragile clips etc! Videos like this make it so much easier on modern stuff.
Hope it helps when you come to do your own, just don't forget the bolt underneath... Doh!! Cheers and good luck.
Absolute life saver been trying to find a proper video to solve on how to remove cheers fella
No problem, glad it was of some help!! Thanks for leaving a lovely comment too!! Cheers.
Enormous help, now I know how to avoid having to take the whole bumper off and I'm more confident how to seal the light correctly. Thanks!
If you're not taking the whole bumper off, make sure you don't put too much force into it when bending it around the light, I'd hate for you to crease the plastic bumper. Good luck getting yours sorted!
Thanks for this, I'm on to my 2nd ballast change now and feel happier about doing it myself after watching the video. much appreciated
I'm glad it helps people do it themselves, I love repairing stuff myself.
Might have to revisit this video a few times during this summer. I just bought an Insigna last week with condensation in both headlamps. I've had it go for a service a couple days ago and they said that it's a potential MOT failure and they quoted me over £600 to get new ones installed! It gives me some confidence that it's a job I can maybe do by myself for a fraction of the cost...
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for that mate, made the job much quicker and easier for me. I noticed water in the lense before the ballast failed so luckily all I had to do was seal around the headlight. Price to repair was the cost of a tube of sealant.
A tip I picked up from a BMW forum was to remove the covers from the inside until you get the chance to make the repair, the heat from the engine bay helps to evaporate the moisture and keep the lens clear. Probably what prevented the water getting down to my ballast.
Glad it helped
What do you mean by 'covers'? mine needs doing and want to make it as easy as possible thanks
@@arnoldrimmer9161 The covers you remove to change the bulbs. It wont help if the water has already got down to the ballast but if you've caught it quick whip them off and get it fixed asap.
@@stevoc4023 ah ok thanks a lot 👍
Great video thanks for doing that it made my life much easier.
I did notice that the bulb you changed in your other video for the drivers side was a "D1s" but the ballast you have for the Passenger side says "D3s", that maybe why you still got the error even though it worked.
Thanks again for taking the time to make our lives a little easier!
Glad it helped, maybe that was an issue, but i thought i replaced it with what i took out... I'll recheck next time... Thanks for the nice comment too, much appreciated.
Thank you so much for this video. I got a ballast for £30 and bulbs for £21 plus a tube of sealant for around a tenner, dismantled the headlamp and dried it out with a fan while the parts were en route from Amazon, and reassembled it all successfully. As expected I still get the error message due to the cheapo ballast unit, but I can press a button as well as anyone!
great to hear that you've had some success! Thanks for leaving me a nice comment too.
@@bobgriffiths Update: I removed the driver's side headlamp earlier in the week and applied sealant to the join between the lens and cover. Hopefully that will prevent the same happening to that side. This morning I received a genuine Hella ballast unit from EBay for £95 and fitted it to the nearside headlamp. That has got rid of the "check left dipped beam" error messages :-) It's easier third time around. Job all done in an hour! I also refitted the original Phillips bulbs as I preferred their colour temperature, so I now have a spare ballast and 2 spare bulbs. What's not to like! For the record, a short piece of 2x4 jammed between the bumper and the front panel keeps it out of the way nicely when you're removing and replacing the headlamp screws.
John where did you get this ballast please or similar?
This video is literally a lifesaver for me. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
Great vid. In addition to exchanging the ballast (which I had to do): pay great attention to the female connector (high voltage contact) located on the lamp housing. In my case it was loose, hence no contact when installing ballast (was pushed in - easy to miss, it came out again when the ballast was removed). I pushed the connector from the back, creating the expected fit. Then everything worked again!
That's a good tip and a useful bit of info. Thanks. I'm glad you got it sorted. Thanks for leaving a comment.
Done this job today. Video was a massive help 👏
1 piece of advice, I have an Opel Insignia sport tourer 4 x 4 2.0 CDTI 160 CV, I advise you to remove the screw which is located under the headlight, it is screwed into a metal bracket, you will also have to bend this so as not to become a nuisance! I explain why it is necessary to remove this screw, I was hit by another vehicle which damaged the bumper, I had my garage repair the bodywork, but they did not see the problem with the headlight , during the impact, the tab and the screw moved and a large part of the plastic of the headlight (below, near the ballast) was broken, no one saw it, on the other hand, when there was the first heavy rain and that I drove in the rain, I had a headlight fault, the next day, I removed the headlight and I noticed that the headlight was filled with water, especially the ballast which is underneath, as the ballast is at the lowest point of the lighthouse, the water which entered from below the lighthouse drowned the ballast! I remind you that the ballast is expensive, and you should not buy the ballast made in China, you must at all costs buy the ballast in the video, a real piece, not a copy from Turkey or China, otherwise, so be it works but with defects, or not at all!! the xenon bulb costs 208 euros in my garage, the ballast 390 euros and the headlight without bulb and without ballast 1890 euros!! so for a simple screw, remove this damn screw!!
Great video,your so informative,I do feel confident in swapping my headlight with the replacement.Great job.Thank you
You're welcome Craig. If you have any trouble, please do seek help from a trained mechanic or a garage though...
Appreciate your kind comment.
Tidy video thanks. Hopefully I can do the same as I have the same problem. I did see other references to water in the ballast. The guy replaced it with one that cost well over £100 and when it didn't sort the error messages he checked the number. Even though it was sold to him as a direct replacement and worked OK when he checked the numbers on it they were different. Where did you get your ballast?
@@jimedwards7349 I got mine from Ebay for around £45 and they were the same number on the part. I know they are different sometimes as voltage ratings are different on some..
Hi. I believe You used ballast from Insignia after lift (>2013) maybe that's why You are getting error message. Mine was also flooded but i bought 009 720-00 version and i have Insignia from 2011. Cheers
Robert Kuryłowicz cool. I bought it to be the same number as I took out so I don’t fully understand why it would have the issue.
What products used to clean the contacts corrosion you haven't showed the important part for me😢😅
Hi i just use contact cleaner, you can buy it in a spray can from sellers on ebay for a good price. It jsut degreases the contacts and leaves them neater after you've brushed them a little. Hope this helps you out. Thanks.
Hello, the right side headlight had some condensation at first and the bulb went out and shortly after that the drl light also started flickering and went out. I bought new xenon bulbs but that wasnt the problem until i noticed that the ballast was full of water. the thing is my xenon light works now but my drl is not turning on (right side) could it be that the led module is fried from the water damage? Should i just replace the whole headlight or is it better to just try and find a new drl module? Im thankful for any answers!
Sorry but I wouldn't want to recommend any course of action that might cost you more money with no guarantee of working, I think it's probably wise to seek assistance from a mechanic or a professional car repairing person. I suspect that the drl has been damaged by the water in the headlamp bt I don't know where to get another. Apologies, I hope you get it sorted.
I'm having this issue, but on the facelift model where the ballast is mounted to the side. The xenon is flickering and not staying on. Moisture has made its way inside the cluster which I've dried out several times now with a hairdryer. It hasn't solved the problem though. Any idea what could be damaged?
It might not be the ballast if it's side mounted and less likely to have water ingress. Maybe there is an issue with the bulb if it's been wet in there. Might be worth trying to seal the unit up...
I've done all this but still doesn't work not sure what else I should do
Failing that, I would take it to a garage for a profesh mechanic to take a look. Sorry this didn't help you that much but I wish you good luck.
Thanks for info. Lucky me, I get to enjoy a second problem on my Insignia from design fault(already done the ubiquitous EGR cooler leak).
Quick question, mines been suffering with the AFL error before the ballast packed up, do you know if there is anything to look for while the lamp is out (wiring etc), that might be the cause of it ?
Also I'm going to seal my headlamp after drying it with some flo plast glue for plastic plumbing pipes I've got. Its watertight as I used in my recent bathroom renovation on the new drainage pipes. It might give a longer lasting seal, who knows ?
That floplast is good stuff, I used it on plastic conduit when I made an ED209 costume for comicon. Held it together a treat.
MY AFL was complaining before the ballast went, it's likely to be water getting into the mechanism of the AFL system and removing the water and sealing it up might prevent it from coming back. The AFL issues stopped on mine after I did this sealing up. I wish you luck and hope the floplast does a good job on it. Cheers.
@@bobgriffithsRemoved headlight and was exactly as you said, water came dripping out of the ballast, all the pins and sockets drenched. Thanks again for heads up, saved a packet doing it myself again.
Glad there are those out there like yourself willing to have a go!
@@bertbox69 following on from that after it was drenched did you have to replace the whole unit or were you able to dry it out and fit the new ballast? Did everything go according to plan hope to do this to mine as went the hard route last mot on the other side :/
Good video, do you know if this is the same process for a 2015 facelift ?
Thanks, I don't know what the 2015 Facelift looks like but I'd imagine that it might be similar. If you're unsure take it to a garage or a professional mechanic. Thanks for stopping by.
@bobgriffiths thanks for the reply, I'll work it out, was just wondering before I start , I do my own work , like timing belt, water pump , aux belt and so on so I'll manage
Big help thanks. Taking both headlights off today to dry them out and re-seal. Pretty sure I could have damaged the trim if not for this video.
Hey Phil glad it helped, hope you got the headlamps sorted in the end!!
@@bobgriffiths yep all good now buddy thanks
Hi , do you know where the fuses are located and what fuses
Can't remember now but it is all available on a google search. Search for your model and year number with Fusebox after it... Good luck.
@@bobgriffiths Thanks for replying .👍
Good video. I need to tackle mine soon
Go for it!
Hi @unibob! I just received new ballast and bulbs, changed everything and still does not work. Do you think it was not good idea to spray plug on the lamp where new ballast comes connected with WD-40? Also in my case ballast was full of water. I was so excited that I have solved the issue now with lot less money than I would give to professionals. But luck is not on my side I guess. Any ideas?
I wouldn't personally have sprayed WD40 in there but you're free to do whatever you like. I don't think that it's conductive so you won't have done any real damage I don't think.It could be a number of things really, worth checking fuses etc (not trying to be condescending) and you may have been sold a ballast that was Dead On Arrival (DoA) you could swap it into the other headlamp to see if it is dead but that's gonna be a pain.. If you're still having issues go back to the ballast provider and ask them if they can replace the one you were sent. Just what I would do, doesn't necessarily make it the right thing to do. Hope you get to the bottom of it and get it all back up and running.
@@bobgriffiths I am sorry. I did solve it. I unmounted working headlamp and changed ballast and it was working. Then I have checked your video and I saw your remark about the checking the fuses... So, I checked and F49 was burned. Now everything works! Thanks again for the video!
So does bolt at the bottom of the headlight have to be screwed from the bottom or the top? Also does that get screwed in after all the other screws have been tightened? Thanks
Bolt underneath comes out downwards, using socket or spanner underneath it. If you can start it off first before putting the others in or inserting them all and starting them but not fully tightening them until they're all in it should be better positioned for you to find the bolt hole. Good luck.
@@bobgriffiths ah right, so rhat bolt needs to come out then? Don't think it showed that in the video from what I remember, but I could be wrong! Lol
Well lucky me finding your video, looks like I got the same problem changing the light bulb did nothing ( no i didn't touch the new bulb or tapped it), so I've ordered a new ballast in readiness for the headlight removal, got one that is for a Vauxhall Insignia 2013 elite so fingers crossed It will sort the the offside dipped headlight problem, well done Bob
Glad it helped
@@bobgriffiths I removed the front bumper better access to everything and lucky I did because one of the push on brackets was not engaged, (from pervious paid garage work) I'm lucky enough to have the tools and facilities to work on the car and it doesn't look that complicated thanks to your help, yes I have water in the headlamp so before I fit the new Ballast, I will ensure that the headlamp is cleaned dry and then I will seal around the headlamp, Thanks guys for all your help and advice
Hi just doing this same thing now I took off headlight and have it drying by the fire. Will seal it later on. Just out of curiosity. How do you change the other bulb in the headlight...not the xenon one? Also is there a way to clean water marks off inside of lens?,? Thanks again
I can't remember now but I thought the side light just unscrewed on a bayonet fitting. I don't know how to clean water marks from the inside, maybe use some isopropyl alcohol while it's still off the car?
Hope you get it sorted..
@@bobgriffiths ya It looks like it will just screw out .I just can't see how you can get your hand in there to do that? Thanks for the reply 👍
Thanks a lot! Just done my following your guidance
Hope that you get many more years out of your headlights!! Cheers for leaving me a nice comment.
I've tried opening the connector with a screwdriver like you.. it won't budge 😬 I'm afraid I might brake it
Look up a few more youtube videos on how to open them, it's better to do that rather tan break it. If it's well stuck , pop a spot of wd40 on the outside of the plug to soften the hardened dust. but don't soak it in the stuff... Good luck!!
Do you need to code the new ballast ,thanks
I don't think you need to update anything in the ECU but if you have the right ballast it won't error. If you have a ballast that isn't 100% correct the right part number then it may give you an error even though it all still works.. Good luck with your repairs..
@@bobgriffiths thanks mate
Does any one know exactly where the water gets in from?
I have put silicon sealant all the way around the head light lens seal and still few weeks later water is starting go build up...........I have absolutely no idea where the heck it's coming in from????
If it's sealed in there it'll pool up and then cloud over, make sure you dry it thoroughly and then seal it up. I also had a crack in the top cover (the round one that twists off)
Did you ever solve your problem mate.
Hi @unibob this video is brilliant thank you, I have an 2010 insignia elite, I think it has the same lights as yours does, I noticed that when u press ur key fob the lights come on and adjust then settle.
This probably isn't the right names for them but basically the drivers side headlamp, the ball bit inside, ( that moves and adjusts when you press the key fob ) it is permanently pointing to the left, its coming up on my dash to service the AFL light. Is this the problem you had? And would changing the ballast fix it? Any info would be really appricated thanks
I don't think that changing the ballast would help, I think it's likely to be the AFL controller or mechanical mechanism that's causing the issue with the light being stuck one way. Sorry. Good luck getting it fixed.
@@bobgriffiths thanks for your help, do you think then its going to be better to replace the whole headlamp unit then? Rather than try to replace different parts inside?
@@savvyned hi mate did you resolve the issue,cheers
Back silicon??
I think the silicone I used was clear and was better for me as I couldn't see it once it was cured. Hope you have. luck with your car repairs.
I have a 61 plate insignia VXR . comes up with 2 errors .
#01 . Headlight levelling malfunction.
#02 Service AFL lamp.
All light seem to work ok. A few weeks ago i had a clutch replacement and the battery got disconnected , is it possible it could be an old error code that has come up because it's been disconnected for a while. like i say everything works fine it's just annoying it comes up everytime i start the car up.
I've had that error if the headlight unit was open , might want to check that there's no obstruction in the headlamp blocking the mechanism... Thanks for stopping by.
same here cause replaced ballast with non OEM.deal with it or buy OEM ballast
Do you think it's possbile to dry the ballast out ?
I was going to remove mine today, but there is probably little point if I will have to do it again to install the new device.
I don't think that mine would have dried out, they smelt like they had burnt out. It might be worth a try first, but it's a lot of hassle to try it and not work. HOpe you have some luck with it though.
@@bobgriffiths So we extracted the unit and it was spotless. Not a drop of water had entered. Now we're thinking it's the wiring interfact beneath the bulb housing.
In my 2010 Opel Insignia, I've already changed the ballast twice because it's filled with water and it damages my lights. The problem is that the issue keeps coming back. I don't believe that switching to a new headlight, despite spending more money, will resolve the problem. This car has many issues with water infiltrations and electronics. I think that a seal in this case around all the components of the headlight is the solution. But from what I've read, silicone is not advisable. They recommend plastic welding along the areas with air vents while performing a leak test. What do you think can be done? My mechanic has had the car since yesterday, and he's also not quite sure what to do because the solution of a new headlight is expensive for me, and buying the ballast and the light and replacing them will result in the same issue soon with water getting in. A lot of water enters the headlight, and it's not condensation; it's actual water accumulating at the bottom where the ballast is. Do you have any solutions on how to waterproof a headlight and all its components? And if it's cracked from some impact, is it possible to seal it? Thanks for all the help
I think the water gets in around the edges of the seal of the headlamp, just changing ballast will empty the water out but it will get back in. There are too many people with this issue to be a rare occasion so I recommend sealing it to prevent the issue reoccurring. If silicone isn't recommended then feel free to do plastic welding but it was easier and more instant for me to use silicone.
@@bobgriffiths thanks a lot for your fast information and help, lets will see what we gona use to seal it.
Hi, what colour are your bulbs?
They were bright and had a blue tinge to them if coming towards you. They're great lights but prone to this water ingress issue. Not a great design really.
Great video, about to attempt myself but excuse my ignorance what does the ballast unit actually do? Thanks
See the website for an explanation: www.powerbulbs.com/blog/2016/10/what-does-a-hid-ballast-do#
It is a voltage regulator and helps build up the large voltages needed to get the bulbs lit up.
Good luck with the job!
@@bobgriffiths thanks 👍 I think the name 'ballast' was throwing me off a bit, I was thinking ' ballast' as in extra weight for some reason and couldn't work out why extra weight would be needed for a headlamp! 🤦♂️ thanks again
Hey nice video, i have a similar issue - 2/3 parts of the headlight works, indicator and small light. I tried replacing the xenon bulb and getting a new balast, also letting it dry, i also sprayed wd40 to help get rid of the corroution on the connectors. still no luck. Should i try to change the wiring inside? or is it out of my hands now.
Might be worth going to a mechanic or auto-electrician. Sorry I can't help further.
Have you had any leaks since you have done this fix. I ask because both of mine are broken and not working.
Sorry, I part ex'd the car soon after but I never saw any further leaks..
I've got to do this on my 2012 Insignia in an attempt to save £1300 for a new headlamp unit. 3 bulbs have gone including the Automatic Headlamp Leveling system. Will replace all bulbs and the ballast.
Hope it helps, good luck.
Tried to remove my drivers side lamp . Only see three screws . Are there more .??
I think there are four, one on the top of the wing, one on the side of the wing, one in the front bumper and one under the lamp... I've missed the underneath one before now... It is in the video though.....
@@bobgriffiths yeah.. Best way to get to em all is removing the bumper. Fairly easy but it’s ridiculous just to get the whole headlight off
Great vid! Wanted to fix it myself too since the dealership wants to charge upwards of 2k for new headlights... The question is just how doable would you say this is for someone who has never worked on a modern car (last time I worked on a car was with my granddad on his lada) .. And is the issue still fixed to this day for you?
It's relatively straightforward to do if you have the right tools, in terms of sockets and torx bits etc... I sold the car not long after this so don't know if it remains ok today but it certainly lasted through a winter.
Can you remove the glass lens once headlight is out to wipe away any condensation inside it or is that not possible, great video btw
I don't think so, It's easier to bang a hair dryer in there and warm it up s that the water evaporates, make sure it has time to leave before you close it all up again. Thanks for the lovely comment too!!
Hi. Interesting video - Quick question - is this the xenon or halogen headlamp?
My garage said that you can't replace the ballast only as it's a sealed unit and I need a whole new Bixenon/HID headlight. (They seem to be around 650£) so just checking as I'd prefer to repair.
you could replace the ballast alone, but if it leaks water into the headlight it will ruin it again. Best if you can to seal up the headlight unit and then replace ballast.. The ballast is a sealed unit stuck on the bottom of the headlamp unit but you can unscrew it and replace it. Good luck with it..
had the same problem replaced with a new hella ballast ,works but still getting the check headlight error,,,did you ever get rid of your error code
newry123 I did get rid of it. By part exing it for another car. Ha ha. I’m sure someone with a Vauxhall computer could reset it though. Sorry I can’t help further than that.
@@bobgriffiths no problem,cheers
Hey, my died too with same problem. Did you daily led light worked when balast died? Because my xenon and daily led light not working because of water. Cheers.
led carried on working, but the main bulb stopped..
hi, how do you know the correct part number for the ballast. Looked on ebay and mostly 5DV 009 720 00 Nothing in the hand book at all . See you had 5dv 009 932 00 cheers
The correct number will be on the ballast when you take it out. Best to get the same. I wish you good luck on this and hope that you might be helped even a little by my video.
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment. Cheers.
Yes the correct ballast has 720 in the partnumber the others may work the bulb but don't have the functionality and could lead to a system warning after install..
How is your repair holding up
I don't know, I upgraded to a newer insignia. It looked ok when it left me though...
Hi do not use sealant use hot temperature sealant, why u ask, its because these lights give off hot temperature, use head gasket sealer I e permatex sealant is ideal. Also dry out head light before fitting new balace or you will get water back into to the balace that you just replaced.
Good idea about the high temp sealant, I didn't have any so I just did my best with what I had to hand. the lamp was completely dry before I resealed it and fitted the ballast back, as you're right, the last thing you want to do is keep some of that pesky water in there to screw up the new ballast. thanks for the comment and take care!!
@bobgriffiths you must use high temperature sealant because the heat will only course water to leak back in the light, I found out the hard way, but after using high temperature sealant no leaks ever since. Tlc my friend.
I m gonna try this
Good luck, I hope it works.
Thanks!
No problem! I hope it helped you
thank you very informative
You are welcome!
Did you get the ECM reset or the fault off the trip computer. Thanks for the video 😁
sorry, I didn't, I part ex'd the car soon after. Thanks for the comment and the watch..
I had same issue so i replaced the ballast with cheap ebay ones, £35. went to dealer as i had the same error, they said they dont need to re program the ECM. the error is due to them not being genuine modules. bummer, i guess if ya want the errors gone, its genuine parts only.
@@authentic7122 there are several revision letters - if not same ie ae,af etc will show lamp error. my 2011 elite is ae which i cannot seem to get anywhere - ive uses ad & af both cause error but work
It’s ridiculous to have to dismantle the front of the car. Same with my VW Touareg. These are consumable parts and should be a five minute job to replace.
I agree, it's designed to keep the main dealers in business I reckon..
@@bobgriffiths
That’s exactly the reason why. Anyway! Just like to thank you and others like you that go out their way to help others with your videos. Your video was shared with my brother in law who’s having issues with water ingress to his Insignia headlight unit. As mentioned I have a 2013 VW Touareg that needed a new bulb fitted so I found a guy who posted his video for others to watch. I had to dismantle the front bumper to replace a blown xenon bulb. Whilst I was at it I fitted both bulbs as it seems when one has blown the other one seems to blow not long after the first one. Thanks again for your video. It was much appreciated. 👍
Slicon.
Crabon. TTianium