putting that black finishing / security cap satisfied my ocd drip for the day ! thanks for always having everything in macro focus ! Another great job !
Anyone else notice the white and brown in the wrong position at first, then cuts to it being finished and wired correctly. Still a good video though :)
Hi Mr. Salinas thanks for sharing this video.But I noticed that you are terminating T 568 B,i show in keystone jack color coding is different .Thanks and waiting your explanation.
The AIr FOrce used "Green white/green, orange white/blue, blue white/orange, brown-white/brown" for my last 2 decades in the USAF and 17 years as contractor, at least, that's what the RC-135V/W under Raytheon/L3-Comm/L-3 Harris crowd used!
Good video, only thing I would say to change is to strip the sheathing back further using the pull string after you've cut the sheathing with you're snips. A lot of times you're going to nick the cable when cutting the sheath with your snips. Thats what that string is there for
cat6a can be much thicker gauge for the inner twisted cables ...if you get good quality cables with shielding (most common now) and are gentle enough to just score the outer shield, you most likely will not have a problem with nipping the inner cables. Of course this comes through many many many practices doing this same motion with a wire stripper or clippers. Even with a straight edge single blade you can get pretty good at this. In the video it is obvious that he did not pass past to the inner layers ...however always do pull down on that nylon string to make sure just in case.
I had that problem at first. Swore against not using the pull string because of having to do it over. I just had to get good at applying the right pressure with the snips. 500 cables at the patch panel you are not trying to get that pull string to work with you 500 times. Some of them are thin and hurt. I just check i didn't cut the second sheath after stripping. I might nick 1 of 50 and just cut it off and get it right on second attempt. My OCD hates how the outer layer looks when the string is used as well. I like a clean circular cut. Also I mainly work with commercial jobs that require Plenum cable. You just barely score that stuff and it ripps off with a pull. Regular cable I still fight with it a bit with my snips. Strong PVC cable I usually end up using the string. If I am training somebody I don't even bother teaching them the snips trick, I just show them how to use the string. Can't teach someone yrs of practice.
Hello, one strange scenario. Cables from one side ends to a Patch panel cat6 and on the other side are rj45 connectors. Using the tester, all pins are ok but when connecting with computer, again everything works but some links are 100mbits and some other 1gbs. What can be the issue?
i know this is kinda old but i still learn things 15 yrs deep in the trade. my process is that you still have to check the color code while you place it, as you punch it, and after your done. trust me after you do 300 at a job you will still fix errors. technically its 2400 wires if you count each individual wire. that is only counting the one end of the cable. I'm about 1 error for every 50 jacks. used to avg 3. and I'll nock em out in about an hour. crimper tool speeds it up a bit but you just go cross eyed after a while. low lighting conditions and some cable has a translucent colors where green looks like blue and orange looks like brown. the quick trick to fixing is you have easy access to your patch panel and when you have errors you fix it there instead of taking off the plate and taking the jack out and fixing it there. you have to get rid of your OCD and not care that the cable lands where they are supposed to, but test correctly to the code. does feel good when you do a 150 drop job with not one error sometimes. till this day i will fuck up my first jack or second if i'm talking to someone. just random mistakes and i have to stop and put on my A game brain. i just noticed he corrected it after all the colors were placed. correcting it before you cut is the best catch. hehe.
olá amigo!!sou do brasil,como faço a depois de feito esse processo a outra ponto que será crimpado com o rj45 terá que ter o padrão t568A ou t568B??pois minha duvida esta devido as cores que estão sendo mostrado neste video do plug do jack que estão sendo em ordem normal,tipo verde,v branco,laranja,b laranja,azul,b azul,marrom,b marrom.ou seja neste video ele segue a ordem normal que esta sendo mostrada no conector jack,quero saber a outra ponta que estará o adaptador rj45 como terei que usar..?
***** Thanks man. I have a weird little patch panel in a lab to build. It's a breakout and the cable lengths are very short. I want to just cut cables assemblies in half and patch them through a punch-down panel. 12' long solid cables seem to be hard to find. 12' stranded cables are easy to get. I plan on cutting the stranded cables and punching the cut ends into the punch-down panel.
my question is this when you punch down the cable how can it transfer a signal when the plastic sheathing is still there? yes i am new to this terminating stuff
It's just a preference. It's really not necessary to completely untwist the pairs. The twist keeps the wires from moving about as you continue to seat the remaining wires and in preparation for the punch down.
I had to punch down like 8 keystones the other day. First time I have done it and they all worked first try, but I did wonder how people did this with any sort of regularity and still had skin on their hands. I didn't cut myself or anything, but it sure felt like I was trying to push the jack through my hand. Gonna have to get one of those pucks.
This is how not to do it. The cable should enter the keystone jack from the back straight into the terminations. That is why the cover has a hole in the middle. The way you did it, the pairs are different lengths. The orange and green are longer than the blue and brown causing a failure with any respectable cable tester that certifies the cables. Directly into the back of the jack is the way to go. It is a little harder to manage, but it is the better way to terminate the cables. Sorry.
Thanks for the feedback, Dennis. You're right we do want the untwisted pair as close to the 110 as possible along with as little as possible jacket stripped off, I think what you're mentioning is the 4:19 mark. If I remember correctly the EIA/TIA code calls out for no more than 0.5". I wanted to do it straight from the back but for visual/video purposes I wanted to let everyone have a good view but I should have pointed that out. That is why I've highlighted your comment. Can you please verify that's it's a half inch?
re: krone vs. 110. 110 is the correct punch. if you look at the connector blades on the keystone, they are parallel to the plastic housing (they're in line with the housing). krone connector blades are angled maybe 15 to 30 degrees or something off parallel to the housing. (kinda like | vs \ ) some keystone blocks are designed to accept either punch, but this doesn't appear to be one. a krone blade wouldn't fit well in this keystone. (also, krone connectors aren't very common in the u.s., which sounds like where you're at.) so keep on 110'ing. : )
110 is the WRONG BLADE. You need to use a Krone blade to properly punch down these jacks. It is likely that the wire will fold around the pinch point in the jack when using a 110 blade.
Wish you would NOT have put the cover on so quickly at the end I could get another view of the wire orientation - the puck obscured how the keystone was positioned.
they are always color coded. also they tell you which is 568A and 568B. most are pretty self explanatory. I prefer panduit minicom 6. I think they are easier to terminate than keystone jacks
If you pause at the 1:47 mark. youll see top left will be brown then brown stripe. underneath it will be blue stripe then blue. top right will be orange then orange stripe. bottom right will be green stripe then green. that is the T568B pattern.
Installing the cable in the fashion this guy states is too time consuming when multiples of new cable drops are being terminated. For one and two overall terminations sure do it this way. Still practice makes permanent no matter how few or how many. Time wasted is money lost.
99% sure this unshelled cable is capable to pass a 100M certification ...... a cat6A WITHOUT shielding hardly pass the certification ... have tested hundred of runs ......
I am studying for my network+ cert and I love how informative your video is thank you.
I am new to terminating - this is by far the best instructional video I could find. Great job - thank you.
You made this look very easy and still you were thorough and clear. In just about six minutes. Very good video! Thank you.
putting that black finishing / security cap satisfied my ocd drip for the day ! thanks for always having everything in macro focus ! Another great job !
Anyone else notice the white and brown in the wrong position at first, then cuts to it being finished and wired correctly. Still a good video though :)
that is rigth
that is left
😂😂😂😂
we are only humans !! )
Beautifully executed. Well done sir!
Nice clean fingernails of the correct length. Not too short, not too long. Palm puck important.
Got a video on Cat6A plugs?
Cool but remember the cable sheath should be inside the jack
and tightly. at a perp angle, straight into the back.
Another great video Mercy! Thanks for the close ups & thorough explanations!
Same to you my man! Take care for now.
Hi Mr. Salinas thanks for sharing this video.But I noticed that you are terminating T 568 B,i show in keystone jack color coding is different
.Thanks and waiting your explanation.
Thanks a lot for the useful explanation.
Gone the days when I used to mumble "brown, light brown, green, light blue, blue, light green, orange, light orange" to myself LOL
The AIr FOrce used "Green white/green, orange white/blue, blue white/orange, brown-white/brown" for my last 2 decades in the USAF and 17 years as contractor, at least, that's what the RC-135V/W under Raytheon/L3-Comm/L-3 Harris crowd used!
Never saw an RJ45 or disconnect panel not wired as such, i.e., using straight color-matched pairs as was shown....
Untwisting the pairs to where you insert the wires into the slots won't degrade test signals
Thanks for this, it was very informative. Working on my Network+ and I found this immensely helpful.
hello, great video. where do I find the tool mentioned that cuts and terminates all the wires at once? I can't find it on your website?? :(
I can't find it either!
@1:12 finally some one remembers to maintain the twist
Excellent explanations. Simply the best I have seen. Thank you.
Good video, only thing I would say to change is to strip the sheathing back further using the pull string after you've cut the sheathing with you're snips. A lot of times you're going to nick the cable when cutting the sheath with your snips. Thats what that string is there for
cat6a can be much thicker gauge for the inner twisted cables ...if you get good quality cables with shielding (most common now) and are gentle enough to just score the outer shield, you most likely will not have a problem with nipping the inner cables. Of course this comes through many many many practices doing this same motion with a wire stripper or clippers. Even with a straight edge single blade you can get pretty good at this. In the video it is obvious that he did not pass past to the inner layers ...however always do pull down on that nylon string to make sure just in case.
Joe is quite right.
I had that problem at first. Swore against not using the pull string because of having to do it over. I just had to get good at applying the right pressure with the snips. 500 cables at the patch panel you are not trying to get that pull string to work with you 500 times. Some of them are thin and hurt. I just check i didn't cut the second sheath after stripping. I might nick 1 of 50 and just cut it off and get it right on second attempt. My OCD hates how the outer layer looks when the string is used as well. I like a clean circular cut. Also I mainly work with commercial jobs that require Plenum cable. You just barely score that stuff and it ripps off with a pull. Regular cable I still fight with it a bit with my snips. Strong PVC cable I usually end up using the string. If I am training somebody I don't even bother teaching them the snips trick, I just show them how to use the string. Can't teach someone yrs of practice.
Hello, one strange scenario. Cables from one side ends to a Patch panel cat6 and on the other side are rj45 connectors. Using the tester, all pins are ok but when connecting with computer, again everything works but some links are 100mbits and some other 1gbs. What can be the issue?
Strong LOLS at the brown white cross over, you not mentioning it but then when it cuts to the finished jack it is magically fixed.
Hi sir..what the name item blue colour that holdstone jack?..
I guess I'm a noob at this, but it shows for brown, solid on the left and white/brown on the right but you did it opposite of the chart. Why is that?
yeah I'm also a noob and thinking the same.. he seems to have followed the A color code for the brown/white pair ?
i know this is kinda old but i still learn things 15 yrs deep in the trade. my process is that you still have to check the color code while you place it, as you punch it, and after your done. trust me after you do 300 at a job you will still fix errors. technically its 2400 wires if you count each individual wire. that is only counting the one end of the cable. I'm about 1 error for every 50 jacks. used to avg 3. and I'll nock em out in about an hour. crimper tool speeds it up a bit but you just go cross eyed after a while. low lighting conditions and some cable has a translucent colors where green looks like blue and orange looks like brown. the quick trick to fixing is you have easy access to your patch panel and when you have errors you fix it there instead of taking off the plate and taking the jack out and fixing it there. you have to get rid of your OCD and not care that the cable lands where they are supposed to, but test correctly to the code. does feel good when you do a 150 drop job with not one error sometimes. till this day i will fuck up my first jack or second if i'm talking to someone. just random mistakes and i have to stop and put on my A game brain.
i just noticed he corrected it after all the colors were placed. correcting it before you cut is the best catch. hehe.
I am trying to instll this female cat6 jack, but the cable is cat5e,jack is cat6, crimper is cat6, so use cat6 method and wiring?
olá amigo!!sou do brasil,como faço a depois de feito esse processo a outra ponto que será crimpado com o rj45 terá que ter o padrão t568A ou t568B??pois minha duvida esta devido as cores que estão sendo mostrado neste video do plug do jack que estão sendo em ordem normal,tipo verde,v branco,laranja,b laranja,azul,b azul,marrom,b marrom.ou seja neste video ele segue a ordem normal que esta sendo mostrada no conector jack,quero saber a outra ponta que estará o adaptador rj45 como terei que usar..?
can you take those wires off and reuse that jack. I am in a bind and don't have enough new ones ,but I have lots of old ones.
a good rule is to never reuse any parts for this new ultra high speed...
and i prefer pre made factory cables..
yea it is more money, but they work!
Thanks, excellent demonstration for a new guy
You can use solid or stranded wire?
***** Thanks man. I have a weird little patch panel in a lab to build. It's a breakout and the cable lengths are very short. I want to just cut cables assemblies in half and patch them through a punch-down panel.
12' long solid cables seem to be hard to find. 12' stranded cables are easy to get. I plan on cutting the stranded cables and punching the cut ends into the punch-down panel.
***** Thanks!
+Mercy Salinas " Solid plug works with solid and stranded conductor. " What does that mean?
+Mercy Salinas K. That's helpful. I'm trying to run Cat6 in my home. Do you have an email I can contact you at so I can get the right gear?
Nice Dynacom hand puck.......it even works with other manufacturers. How cool is that?
Thanks for the vid, the cable should enter vertically (that's why the dust cap in notched out). Thanks for posting the video!
i cant find a cat6a jack please help
I appreciate this video, despite the interlaced format lol
How do I get this tools
ua-cam.com/video/GuAXcZmLNmM/v-deo.html
my question is this when you punch down the cable how can it transfer a signal when the plastic sheathing is still there? yes i am new to this terminating stuff
There's little metal prods that cut into the plastic when it's seated and punched down
Why is it important to keep the wires twisted?
It's just a preference. It's really not necessary to completely untwist the pairs. The twist keeps the wires from moving about as you continue to seat the remaining wires and in preparation for the punch down.
I had to punch down like 8 keystones the other day. First time I have done it and they all worked first try, but I did wonder how people did this with any sort of regularity and still had skin on their hands. I didn't cut myself or anything, but it sure felt like I was trying to push the jack through my hand. Gonna have to get one of those pucks.
Palm tool is cool. I Have used a wall plate mount with a split in it for those times extra support is needed.
Hello sir tell me cat6a io colour code
Hey thanks a lot! I've got it now! Now I will buy some of your parts to start wiring my house.
This is how not to do it. The cable should enter the keystone jack from the back straight into the terminations. That is why the cover has a hole in the middle. The way you did it, the pairs are different lengths. The orange and green are longer than the blue and brown causing a failure with any respectable cable tester that certifies the cables. Directly into the back of the jack is the way to go. It is a little harder to manage, but it is the better way to terminate the cables. Sorry.
Thanks for the feedback, Dennis. You're right we do want the untwisted pair as close to the 110 as possible along with as little as possible jacket stripped off, I think what you're mentioning is the 4:19 mark. If I remember correctly the EIA/TIA code calls out for no more than 0.5". I wanted to do it straight from the back but for visual/video purposes I wanted to let everyone have a good view but I should have pointed that out. That is why I've highlighted your comment. Can you please verify that's it's a half inch?
re: krone vs. 110. 110 is the correct punch. if you look at the connector blades on the keystone, they are parallel to the plastic housing (they're in line with the housing). krone connector blades are angled maybe 15 to 30 degrees or something off parallel to the housing. (kinda like | vs \ ) some keystone blocks are designed to accept either punch, but this doesn't appear to be one. a krone blade wouldn't fit well in this keystone. (also, krone connectors aren't very common in the u.s., which sounds like where you're at.) so keep on 110'ing. : )
Thank you for this video, now i know how to use this tool.
Excelent video, Ty.
Thanks man nice vid
Thanks for the video =)
great video man
I don't think that one little extra twist will affect anything
110 is the WRONG BLADE. You need to use a Krone blade to properly punch down these jacks. It is likely that the wire will fold around the pinch point in the jack when using a 110 blade.
Krone terminals are angled. 110 are straight. Those sure look like 110 terminals to me.
Thanks for this video
BIT-CT 2I
very good.
thanks for the great video
Wish you would NOT have put the cover on so quickly at the end I could get another view of the wire orientation - the puck obscured how the keystone was positioned.
I thought cat 6 was shielded and had an earthed jack port.
Thank you so much! It worked! :D
Thank you 😊
nice job
thanks
Big like 👍 👍 👍
Thankz for share ya skills
Good
great video game ideas
Nice
good way
4:02 is diferent to 4:52 :P , but is good video
***** I can use that. I will show my class the video for its quality, and ask them to spot the error that you correct. Useful to keep them awake.
***** agreed....good for students ...almost had me hyperventilating for a sec there ...glad order was restored in the universe hahah ;-)
How in hell do you know what color goes where?
they are always color coded. also they tell you which is 568A and 568B. most are pretty self explanatory. I prefer panduit minicom 6. I think they are easier to terminate than keystone jacks
If you pause at the 1:47 mark. youll see top left will be brown then brown stripe. underneath it will be blue stripe then blue. top right will be orange then orange stripe. bottom right will be green stripe then green. that is the T568B pattern.
good
Installing the cable in the fashion this guy states is too time consuming when multiples of new cable drops are being terminated. For one and two overall terminations sure do it this way. Still practice makes permanent no matter how few or how many. Time wasted is money lost.
You sound so much like Michael J Fox.
“Listen, George, if you do not ask Lorraine out then I'm gonna regret it for the rest of my life.”
V.GOOD TERMINAL
99% sure this unshelled cable is capable to pass a 100M certification ......
a cat6A WITHOUT shielding hardly pass the certification ...
have tested hundred of runs ......
m
Please stop saying now now now every few seconds.
I will, starting now 😎
Not 6a it's 6b your punch down
Nice