I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table. You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent. I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications. The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
Great video man! Used your tools and after 3 tries, I got all 8 cable cores working! The most difficult part was for me to understand that one cannot just chop off a default Amazon ethernet cable, but needs to use a patch cable, in german called "Verlegekabel".
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: ua-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/v-deo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed. They crimped perfectly
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea. Thanks to you I have found them! Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable! Thanks for the video!
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile. I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X. Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%. PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable). PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) ua-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/v-deo.html
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables. I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables. Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue. Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
I think it should be mentioned that no matter how well you do your RJ45 crimp, a high percentage of them will fail the Cat 6a or higher Fluke test. I would not use RJ45 crimping for anything over Cat 6 cables and anything over that it is best to use a Cat 6A or higher keystone jack and then have a short patch cable that is graded Cat 6A or higher. Testing continuity only tells you that your wires are setup correctly but doesn't tell you if you have proper Alien Crosstalk shielding or proper grounding or other interference that can degrade your 10G signal. Another option is of course to use the very expensive Telegartner MFP8 RJ45 ... those jacks easily pass the Fluke test every time!
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
Even I as an experience cable crimper did learn something. I did not know about those strippers. I would always strip it by hand with some pliers. However it seems that it's faster to just use a regular plug than doing it this way. At least at the point you put the load bar on, I'm already cutting it to size and putting the connector on and crimping it.
What people should know is that CAT7 is not a IEEE certified and validated cable. It works fine for sure, but it is not certified. Also, for CAT6A and up shielded/foiled twisted pair cables you have the option to use Hirose connectors and crimping tools. These will crimp the connector while simultaneously crimp the ground wire and strain relief
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
Yes that's right, depending on the environment and setup you may only want to connect one end. (obviously the tester won't test continuity of the shielding in that case)
Thanks Bob! I do the occasional bits of voiceover work with my company, Innobella Media, but not often. I'm touched that you like my voice, thank you - I'll look after it! ;) Glad you liked this video too, hope it was useful.
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
I wish I didn't have such weird colour blindness. The orange, green and brown look almost identical to me and I can only really tell the blue because it's darker (I think). It really frustrates me then I have to get help to do these I can't do them on my own. Constantly looking for some way around this but no joy so far 😭
That must be really frustrating! There must be a way, surely - hopefully someone in the industry will put enough time and resources into finding a solution soon 🤞
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Is it possible for a LAN cable to pass a continuity test (the 1-8 thing), but still carry problems? We're getting 200 MBPS from our 8 port switch. But when connected to a router via lan cable, its dropping to 8MBPS. But the lan cable seems crimped perfectly and passes the continuity test?!
5:45 on this type of cable tester only the smaller part will tell you that wires are in incorrect order, the larger one can only tell whether you have a missing wire.
Fine for newbies and amateurs, but unnecessary for those of us who have crimped multiple thousands over a 40 year career. Through-hole and sorter inserts are a joke. It is truly NOT that difficult to install an RJ45 plug.
great video , for my needs this is overkill, I have cat 5e UTP cables in the wall so I get the cheapest plugs and crimp those. The router has a max of 1 Gbps and will reach this trough this this cables. The internet from the isp is a 500 kbps symmetrical so I think will not need cat 7 :)))
Yeah Cat5e is probably fine for most homes although if you're buying new I'd say go for Cat6a. Cat7 will be overkill (and isn't even an official standard so some people look very harshly on it) but I thought I'd use it to make the video more interesting :)
I'm a network installer and I pretty much use nothing else, good quality connectors will minimize any potential problems and pass-through is a fair bit faster to install.
I bought some CAT6 burial cable and dug out an old pack of rj45 connectors and load bars. However, I can't for the life in me get the wires through the load bar - not even a single one on its own. The wire seems thicker than the hole! Have the connectors changed over the years or does each individual wire on a burial cable have thicker insulation?
It might do - you need to look at the gauge and check the AWG number matches for the cable and the connector. If it's armoured outdoor cable then you might be better off terminating to a keystone jack. I did another video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/IHxTbtAEd-E/v-deo.html
Purchasing Links:
➡ RJ45 Modular Crimping Tool: geni.us/ModularCrimper
➡ Ethernet Cable Tester: geni.us/NetworkCableTester
➡ RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar: geni.us/RJ45ModularPlugsCat7
➡ Cat7 Shielded Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat7Cable
➡ Cat6 Ethernet Cable: geni.us/Cat6
➡ Flush Cutters: geni.us/FlushCutters
➡ Metric Tape Measure: geni.us/MetricTapeMeasure
➡ Automatic Wire Strippers: geni.us/WireStrippers
DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
thanks again.. much appreciated
The RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar link is to Punch Down Keystone Jack Adapters instead of what you showed.
Thanks Jim, I'll look into that as it might be geolocating to the wrong item. Which country are you in?.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork USA, Florida to be more specific.
Thanks! It should work properly now.
I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
Don't forget, the shield must be grounded at one end too. Otherwise, it's useless.
@@James_KnottWell noted, thanks!
What the use of ground network cabling?
@@pit3835 Some cables have a shield to reduce interference. To be effective, the shield must be grounded at one point.
lol what an idiot!
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table.
You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
hahaha 😂😂😂
Yeah it's one of those tasks which isn't particularly fun, but it's necessary and enables/improves a lot of other things!
A proper DOH! moment right there, I feel your pain.
Lmaooooo
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
Simple, easy to understand and no fluff!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful 😊
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent.
I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications.
The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
We have used passthroughs for several years, done 100s of them, never once had an issue.
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
👍
Thanks very much for sharing your experience with us. It will save me wasting money needlessly 👍🏼
Great video man! Used your tools and after 3 tries, I got all 8 cable cores working! The most difficult part was for me to understand that one cannot just chop off a default Amazon ethernet cable, but needs to use a patch cable, in german called "Verlegekabel".
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: ua-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/v-deo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
This is insanely inefficient. Just cut all 8 at an angle and gently guide them in.
@@jodycwilliams Inefficient? For the average person who makes these cables a few times a year, efficiency is irrelevant.
Agree. Pass-through is the best.
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
Perfect video and I can see this is the same for Cat 8 as well. thank you!
You're welcome!
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Glad it was helpful! 😄
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed.
They crimped perfectly
Thanks! Now I understand the function of that metal part. And that hint about those 12 mm is good also!
Glad it was helpful!
My crimping tool cuts the ends right away, so I always just leave em too long and they go through the end get cut when crimped.
Quite handy.
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
so cool, iv never done this, i dont have the tools but watching these videos gives me confidence in trying one day.
Go for it! 💪 Everything you need is listed in the description. Once you've done it a few times you'll soon start finding it easy 🙂
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea.
Thanks to you I have found them!
Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable!
Thanks for the video!
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
haha thanks!
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile.
I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X.
Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%.
PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable).
PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
Only good video on youtube that I found for cat 7! Thank You!!!
You're welcome!
Thanks a lot, your video help me a lot to fix a short issue I had with my RJ45 connector with passthru features.
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) ua-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/v-deo.html
I love the load bars. Co workers hate them.
Just done my first Cat6a thanks!
Good work!
Great informative video, very interesting. I like the modular plug design, makes it really easy to make a cable. I also like the cable tester.
Glad it was helpful!
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables.
I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
Metal might cause an impedance bump.
@@James_Knott Yeah, I guess it could also short easily. What about punch-in RJ45 male plugs? :D
Yeah I'd avoid metal - I don't know if they even exist?
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables.
Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue.
Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
Yeah I'm pretty sure there's zero distinction in this regard between residential and commercial (but happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!)
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
@@catatonicbug7522 A is more common in Canada too. However, it makes no difference which one you use, so long as you're consistent.
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
5e will only do 1g. Some 6 will go up to 10g depending on the gauge.
@@paulanderson3898 5e can do 10gig for short distances
I dont even think CAT 7 is even certified yet.
That is the case. There is no purpose for Cat7.
@@0bsmith0 I agree. At those data rates one should be considering fibre.
Very nice, very detailed one, truly loved it
Thanks man
You're welcome! Hope it's helpful :)
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
Good tip, thanks!
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
I have used the passthrough type just because there is no metal in the back of my sockets to short things out. They are very easy to use.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Sounds like one of those "It's not popular, because idiots blame it for their ignorance" situations. 🤔😂
Cool idea, I just did my first RJ45 connector and it could have been easier!
I was struggling today crimping cat 6 using the insert, I finally end up using cat5e RJ45 connector, much easier.
It sounds like the gauge (thickness) of the wires might not have matched the plugs. Check the AWG number on both is the same. Hope that helps!
Thank you for this video!!! Very clean and well instructed
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it useful. Happy crimping!
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
My fingers & Crimping Tools are enough to do this
Posteno i strucno objasnjeno
Hvala
Hvala, drago mi je da ste uživali u videu!
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
Very helpful and very well explained. Thanks. 🙏🏻👏
Thank you!
Great video, easy to understand, thank you :)
Solid wires are for magistral lines with patch-panels, outlets ending.
Thank you, it's really really helpful
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
Great demonstration.
REALLY nice explanation, great job
Thank you!
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
Thanks for the sub! Glad you're enjoying the channel, a few more networking related videos for the coming year hopefully 🤞
Thanks for your valuable information
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
One of the most perfect educational videos i have ever seen. Damn you good :D
That's very kind of you to say, thank you!
tech tip, fill the strain relief with hot glue and the connector would be much more rugged.
I think it should be mentioned that no matter how well you do your RJ45 crimp, a high percentage of them will fail the Cat 6a or higher Fluke test. I would not use RJ45 crimping for anything over Cat 6 cables and anything over that it is best to use a Cat 6A or higher keystone jack and then have a short patch cable that is graded Cat 6A or higher. Testing continuity only tells you that your wires are setup correctly but doesn't tell you if you have proper Alien Crosstalk shielding or proper grounding or other interference that can degrade your 10G signal. Another option is of course to use the very expensive Telegartner MFP8 RJ45 ... those jacks easily pass the Fluke test every time!
I've got some of those on order 🙂
I would recommend having gloves for cat7 if you are terminating a bunch like I did years ago 240 pulls hands were cut up after all the terminations.
Yeah, good tip! Always good to protect your hands if you're doing a lot of work.
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
This is such a great video, thanks
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 😀
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I'm in the UK so was wondering where I might get the crimpers and plugs etc
Hello fellow Brit! 🤣 I've put affiliate links to Amazon in the description and pinned comment - you'll be sent to the UK site when you click 👍
Very brief demonstration. Thank you. How about the tool you use to squeeze the jack? Which one do you recommend best?
Purchasing links in the video description 👍
Мужики, обжимамающие кабель с помощью одного ножика поперхнулись от такого разнообразия инструмента 😂
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
That's a crazy color combination. Definitely not standard.
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
Even I as an experience cable crimper did learn something. I did not know about those strippers. I would always strip it by hand with some pliers.
However it seems that it's faster to just use a regular plug than doing it this way. At least at the point you put the load bar on, I'm already cutting it to size and putting the connector on and crimping it.
What people should know is that CAT7 is not a IEEE certified and validated cable. It works fine for sure, but it is not certified. Also, for CAT6A and up shielded/foiled twisted pair cables you have the option to use Hirose connectors and crimping tools. These will crimp the connector while simultaneously crimp the ground wire and strain relief
Thank you 🙂
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
I would avoid connecting the ground at both plugs as you may create a ground loop between the devices.
Yes that's right, depending on the environment and setup you may only want to connect one end. (obviously the tester won't test continuity of the shielding in that case)
Фига, каждая пара в отдельно оплётке, разные кабеля видел но такого ещё нет
What's was super helpful thank you
Glad it helped!
Impressive!!!
got a vid going into the downsides of the different plugs in more detail? like how does the passthrough short out?
you have an excellent voice! Ever think about doing commercials???? Also great video.
Thanks Bob! I do the occasional bits of voiceover work with my company, Innobella Media, but not often. I'm touched that you like my voice, thank you - I'll look after it! ;) Glad you liked this video too, hope it was useful.
Very very good
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
So easy. TIA568B standard EX connect RJ45. 30 secs max each connector.
thankksss..... its work....
Excellent! Glad it was useful 🙂
A little copper tape helps with the connection of the shielding
Good idea! 😀
Pass through with better crimpers can do the job perfectly without hesitation.
I'd tend to agree! :)
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
You can in theory, but you'd require the tools and expertise to do that - neither of which I have! 🤣
I wish I didn't have such weird colour blindness. The orange, green and brown look almost identical to me and I can only really tell the blue because it's darker (I think). It really frustrates me then I have to get help to do these I can't do them on my own. Constantly looking for some way around this but no joy so far 😭
That must be really frustrating! There must be a way, surely - hopefully someone in the industry will put enough time and resources into finding a solution soon 🤞
what is the actual risk of shorts from pass through? and what would that short do?
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Yep, that's standard.
This video was for creating a patch cable. Custom length patch cables keep racks neat and clean.
Our company also does this line
@0:30 you are measuring 4cm with the tape measure, but you are saying “4 cm”…… which is the correct length to strip please?
Do a video on how to disconnect the wires and use the plug heads again incase you change your location or something goes wrong
These ones aren't reusable
I got a weird load bar it's 3 groups of 2 and 2 groups of 1
So, only the greens fit in the 1 group and the other in the 2 groups I think
Is it possible for a LAN cable to pass a continuity test (the 1-8 thing), but still carry problems? We're getting 200 MBPS from our 8 port switch. But when connected to a router via lan cable, its dropping to 8MBPS. But the lan cable seems crimped perfectly and passes the continuity test?!
5:45 on this type of cable tester only the smaller part will tell you that wires are in incorrect order, the larger one can only tell whether you have a missing wire.
Yes, that's correct.
Fine for newbies and amateurs, but unnecessary for those of us who have crimped multiple thousands over a 40 year career. Through-hole and sorter inserts are a joke. It is truly NOT that difficult to install an RJ45 plug.
great video , for my needs this is overkill, I have cat 5e UTP cables in the wall so I get the cheapest plugs and crimp those. The router has a max of 1 Gbps and will reach this trough this this cables. The internet from the isp is a 500 kbps symmetrical so I think will not need cat 7 :)))
Yeah Cat5e is probably fine for most homes although if you're buying new I'd say go for Cat6a. Cat7 will be overkill (and isn't even an official standard so some people look very harshly on it) but I thought I'd use it to make the video more interesting :)
passthrough...if properly use can be God-like. No other rj45 key needed.
I'm a network installer and I pretty much use nothing else, good quality connectors will minimize any potential problems and pass-through is a fair bit faster to install.
Thanks you bro❤❤🎉🎉
Hope it was helpful! 😁
use key stone and fabric pach cord
That's usually (but also very often not) the best option, yes. But for times when you need to terminate with a plug...
I bought some CAT6 burial cable and dug out an old pack of rj45 connectors and load bars. However, I can't for the life in me get the wires through the load bar - not even a single one on its own. The wire seems thicker than the hole! Have the connectors changed over the years or does each individual wire on a burial cable have thicker insulation?
It might do - you need to look at the gauge and check the AWG number matches for the cable and the connector. If it's armoured outdoor cable then you might be better off terminating to a keystone jack. I did another video on that here: ua-cam.com/video/IHxTbtAEd-E/v-deo.html
Will my regular Ethernet crimping tool work on these ends to crimp the end on? Or is the crimping tool designed different for these ends?
My regular tool is for passthrough.
Grant it this was a demo so slowed down but still feel like sliding on an rj45 and crimping would be quicker. Or am I missing something?
You got it in one. It's a demonstration for first timers so done slowly and clearly, with each step explained along the way.