Wow you are right Ryobi tools are great they don't break your bank account I have had no problem with products. I like the hand saw you used I HAVE TO get one thanks.
I have met people who can barely screw 2 boards together that have nicer tools than I will ever own that's why I always encourage homeowners to buy Ryobi. I I did construction full time I would buy nothing buy Milwaukee.
Been using Ryobi for 25 years. Bought my first set in 1998 and I think they are still going, and the collection has grown. One thing I did get was a 12v cheap Walmart drill for light-duty over-head work. But yeah, I scored huge this summer and replenished all my batteries thanks to the sale at Home Depo.
Brett, I have another question for if you do not mind. I want to put electricity in my metal building. I have a pole about 35 feet from the garage with a circuit breaker box on it and room for 3 breakers. I bought some heavy gauge wire to run between the box and a sub-panel I plan to put in the garage. The wire came with 2 hot wires and a ground, no neutural (white) wire. He said I did not need a neutural wire. How would the electricity make the loop it needs to without it? What is your take on how should wire it? I was thinking of getting another wire to go with what I have. Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this question.
You absolutely need 4 wires. The two hot wires carry current to to the sub panel, and you will need a neutral wire to carry current from the sub panel to the main panel. The ground and neutral have to be separated after the main panel as because if the are bonded together, the ground wire will be energized when power is being used in the sub panel, and obviously be dangerous as you have a hot, non insulated wire.
@@brettleybuilt I am not sure the box I want to come from to go into the garage may be a sub-panel as well. Would I still need a nuetral wire if the box I want to come from is a sub-panel box? Thanks so much for getting back with me.
Awesome video. I want to install a 125amp sub panel in my garage.Where can I find the requirements for the right feeder breaker and wire size from the main panel to the sub panel? Thanks
I used #2AWG. My neighbor is a licensed electrician journeyman and I had him take a look at the installation after a few commenters said I did some things wrong. I passed his inspection.
Brett, when you come off the main panel to power a sub panel do you separate the neutrals and grounds on the main pain or do you hook the wire like they have done on the main panel and separate them when you are attaching them to the sub panel ?
Thank you for sharing all of this important information. I am not a electrician so my question might be redundant. I bought a lofted garage recently that is 14x20 with a 7 drop electrical panel pre-installed. I'm not happy with it at all. Cheap box and a 15 amp breaker for starts. I have Square D on the house and this is GE as far as I can tell. There is no neutral bar and the grounds and whites are all together on the ground bar. I found a Square D panel box with 12 drops rated at 120 amps for $86.00. Would it be worth it to change it out to match the house or is the panel not have a neutral bar okay?. Thanks so much.
@@brettleybuilt No Sir. I intend to run power from my house using a Square D 100 amp breaker. What I found out is that the cheaper Square D panels have aluminum bus bars. I did find a 12 drop Square D QO112L125GRB with copper bus bars for $160.00. Thank you for reading my comment.
@@paulgreenlee190 Please note that sub panels are not wired exactly like service entry panels. Make sure the grounds and neutrals are separated on different bus bars and that the bonding strap or bonding screw that bonds the grounds and neutrals are not installed.
I may have missed it in the video, but is there a reason you fastened the wall to the floor AFTER installing the sub panel? Just wondering if it’s a trick that I’m not seeing
The best thing would be to install a shut off switch right beside the sub panel. In my case, I would install a 100 amp rated shut off switch right before the panel that would turn power on and off to the entire sub panel.
@@brettleybuilt geeez, just looked them up, and you might as well buy a panel with one already built in. Not too worried about it now. Currently building a small laundry room with enough space for a bed and shower. Main panel is only like 15ft away. I think walking outside and shutting off the breaker to the sub panel if needed won't hurt lol
Three, 2 guage wires for the two hot wires and the neutral wire, and a 4 guage wire for the ground. I used all aluminum wire. An electrical supply store will have the wire you need.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks my friend, I never saw a suggested speed for the old bits but they only lasted about one or two holes. I will slow mine down and see what that does.
Yes, the Tapcons are made specifically for concrete. I also use them for anching wood and metal to concrete or block walls. If you do use them in brick walls, try to line up you anchor points with the grout lines. This is because if you ever decide to change anything, you can easily regrout instead of having a hole in the block.
Great channel, just found you. I am doing the same project as you with the subpanel in an outbuilding. Could you maybe make a video on how you pulled the power to the building? did you use 100amp breaker on your main panel? What gauge wire?
I used a 100 amp breaker in my main service entry panel. I used 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire to the sub panel. I attched the wire to joists in my house and then put the wire in 2 1/2 inch conduit from my house into the sun panel.
Yes, and that was the way I wired it up first, but then had to change it because I had mixed up the wires when I put the wires in the main service entry panel.
Nice work but you missed a critical safety feature. By code that sub-panel MUST have a local disconnect to protect anyone working in it. As is you could turn off the remotely located breaker and start working on the panel but someone else not knowing you are working on the panel could turn the breaker back on killing you. The local disconnect should be an inline switch before the panel rated for the entire breaker panel capacity (in this case 100 amps). Alternatively but far less safe you could feed the hot wires into a 2 pole 100 amp breaker located in the bottom right or left position. The problem with that is the hot lines and the breaker lugs are still hot while working near them. Do yourself and that wife and baby of yours a solid favour and install the local disconnect before any further work in that panel. Additionally, while your impact driver managed to get the tapcon holes drilled I can't say it was in any way slick or smooth. If you plan on doing many more tapcons, help yourself out by getting a Ryobi hammer drill. They are not overly expensive and work so much better than the impact driver you'll shake your head for not getting one sooner. Subscribed.
I agree with you and maybe I will follow up with telling people to add a disconnect. I figured I was going to be the only guy ever working in the panel itself so I didn't bother. Also, I was trying to tailor the video to typical homeowners regarding the tapcons. My friends would not go out and buy the big hammer drills that I have so I just to put up a few walls. I was trying to look for easy and inexpensive options. In the next framing video I will use a bigger drill. Thanks for your input.
That's why LOTO was created (lock out tag out). The source is somehow locked to prevent tampering and tagged as 'out of service, do not touch' or similar. This plus electricians work as if it's hot and use insulated tools etc.
![Framing Walls Inside a Metal Garage [Episode 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KozsAHKr8oY/mqdefault.jpg)
![Framing Walls Inside a Metal Garage [Episode 1]](/img/tr.png)
Check out more Metal Garage videos here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLLeTRuTziDk6iU3eXPWaWMI-0D6C5LRui.html
What a blessing that you video this and walked us through it
Enjoyed the video. I really like your channel because you're a good teacher! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your kind words!
Wow you are right Ryobi tools are great they don't break your bank account I have had no problem with products. I like the hand saw you used I HAVE TO get one thanks.
Excellent videos. Thank you!
Ryobi is the best for diy. I use Milwaukee at work. But at home can't beat Ryobi
I have met people who can barely screw 2 boards together that have nicer tools than I will ever own that's why I always encourage homeowners to buy Ryobi. I I did construction full time I would buy nothing buy Milwaukee.
@@brettleybuilt Metabo
Been using Ryobi for 25 years. Bought my first set in 1998 and I think they are still going, and the collection has grown. One thing I did get was a 12v cheap Walmart drill for light-duty over-head work. But yeah, I scored huge this summer and replenished all my batteries thanks to the sale at Home Depo.
Cool video
Show us how you wired it into your main panel/house.
Brett, I have another question for if you do not mind. I want to put electricity in my metal building. I have a pole about 35 feet from the garage with a circuit breaker box on it and room for 3 breakers. I bought some heavy gauge wire to run between the box and a sub-panel I plan to put in the garage. The wire came with 2 hot wires and a ground, no neutural (white) wire. He said I did not need a neutural wire. How would the electricity make the loop it needs to without it? What is your take on how should wire it? I was thinking of getting another wire to go with what I have. Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this question.
You absolutely need 4 wires. The two hot wires carry current to to the sub panel, and you will need a neutral wire to carry current from the sub panel to the main panel. The ground and neutral have to be separated after the main panel as because if the are bonded together, the ground wire will be energized when power is being used in the sub panel, and obviously be dangerous as you have a hot, non insulated wire.
@@brettleybuilt I am not sure the box I want to come from to go into the garage may be a sub-panel as well. Would I still need a nuetral wire if the box I want to come from is a sub-panel box? Thanks so much for getting back with me.
Awesome video. I want to install a 125amp sub panel in my garage.Where can I find the requirements for the right feeder breaker and wire size from the main panel to the sub panel? Thanks
What size cable did you run? Did you follow the NEC and temperature rating columns etc? Sorry if I missed it
I used #2AWG. My neighbor is a licensed electrician journeyman and I had him take a look at the installation after a few commenters said I did some things wrong. I passed his inspection.
Brett, when you come off the main panel to power a sub panel do you separate the neutrals and grounds on the main pain or do you hook the wire like they have done on the main panel and separate them when you are attaching them to the sub panel ?
The ground and neutral wires have to be separated from the panel box to the sub panel.
Hi
May i have the name of the compound seal?
Thanks
u da man
need pads might be a good idea if you do this all the time
Sir, can a 120-volt receptacle be created by tapping into a 240-volt baseboard heater's electrical supply?
I will answer this through email only🤣. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
Thank you for sharing all of this important information. I am not a electrician so my question might be redundant. I bought a lofted garage recently that is 14x20 with a 7 drop electrical panel pre-installed. I'm not happy with it at all. Cheap box and a 15 amp breaker for starts. I have Square D on the house and this is GE as far as I can tell. There is no neutral bar and the grounds and whites are all together on the ground bar. I found a Square D panel box with 12 drops rated at 120 amps for $86.00. Would it be worth it to change it out to match the house or is the panel not have a neutral bar okay?. Thanks so much.
Does the lofted garage have it's own service, meaning it has its own meter box and is powered separately from the house?
@@brettleybuilt No Sir. I intend to run power from my house using a Square D 100 amp breaker. What I found out is that the cheaper Square D panels have aluminum bus bars. I did find a 12 drop Square D QO112L125GRB with copper bus bars for $160.00. Thank you for reading my comment.
@@paulgreenlee190 Please note that sub panels are not wired exactly like service entry panels. Make sure the grounds and neutrals are separated on different bus bars and that the bonding strap or bonding screw that bonds the grounds and neutrals are not installed.
I may have missed it in the video, but is there a reason you fastened the wall to the floor AFTER installing the sub panel? Just wondering if it’s a trick that I’m not seeing
Absolutely no reason except I think I forgot to put a fastener in when I put the wall up.
@@brettleybuilt thanks for responding. Excellent vid
On a sub panel like this one, how would you wire in a main breaker/switch to shut off all power to all of the other breakers?
The best thing would be to install a shut off switch right beside the sub panel. In my case, I would install a 100 amp rated shut off switch right before the panel that would turn power on and off to the entire sub panel.
@@brettleybuilt geeez, just looked them up, and you might as well buy a panel with one already built in. Not too worried about it now. Currently building a small laundry room with enough space for a bed and shower. Main panel is only like 15ft away. I think walking outside and shutting off the breaker to the sub panel if needed won't hurt lol
What size wire do you use to bring power to the sun panel?
Three, 2 guage wires for the two hot wires and the neutral wire, and a 4 guage wire for the ground. I used all aluminum wire. An electrical supply store will have the wire you need.
How long will the concrete drill bit that you use last in drilling holes? What brand name are they? Where can I get one like that ?
If you drill at the recommended speeds and don't burn them up they should last a while. I bought the Bosch brand from Lowe's.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks my friend, I never saw a suggested speed for the old bits but they only lasted about one or two holes. I will slow mine down and see what that does.
are those screws special for the concrete,, the ones i use need to go in a plastic or metal anchor that go in the concrete
Yes, the Tapcons are made specifically for concrete. I also use them for anching wood and metal to concrete or block walls. If you do use them in brick walls, try to line up you anchor points with the grout lines. This is because if you ever decide to change anything, you can easily regrout instead of having a hole in the block.
What's the other end connection look like? Also how far is the run between them? And the wire size?
I installed a 100 amp double pole breaker in my service entry panel just like any other breaker. The wire is 2-2-2-4 wire. The run is about 80 feet.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks!
Check with your local inspector for requirements.
Great channel, just found you. I am doing the same project as you with the subpanel in an outbuilding. Could you maybe make a video on how you pulled the power to the building? did you use 100amp breaker on your main panel? What gauge wire?
I used a 100 amp breaker in my main service entry panel. I used 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire to the sub panel. I attched the wire to joists in my house and then put the wire in 2 1/2 inch conduit from my house into the sun panel.
@@brettleybuilt Do Sub-Panel needs a Ground Rod ❓❓
Thanks for sharing your setup. Did you install a copper ground rod?
No. You only install ground rods in service entry panels.
If subpanel is in a separate building you do need a ground rod.
@@shingabiss Thank you for Letting us know...👍
Always Check with the local inspector for your requirements. Some require multiple ground rods.
shouldn't the black wire with a white stripe be the neutral wire
Yes, and that was the way I wired it up first, but then had to change it because I had mixed up the wires when I put the wires in the main service entry panel.
Main breaker?
It's a main lug.
The breaker is in the main panel.
Nice work but you missed a critical safety feature. By code that sub-panel MUST have a local disconnect to protect anyone working in it. As is you could turn off the remotely located breaker and start working on the panel but someone else not knowing you are working on the panel could turn the breaker back on killing you. The local disconnect should be an inline switch before the panel rated for the entire breaker panel capacity (in this case 100 amps). Alternatively but far less safe you could feed the hot wires into a 2 pole 100 amp breaker located in the bottom right or left position. The problem with that is the hot lines and the breaker lugs are still hot while working near them. Do yourself and that wife and baby of yours a solid favour and install the local disconnect before any further work in that panel.
Additionally, while your impact driver managed to get the tapcon holes drilled I can't say it was in any way slick or smooth. If you plan on doing many more tapcons, help yourself out by getting a Ryobi hammer drill. They are not overly expensive and work so much better than the impact driver you'll shake your head for not getting one sooner.
Subscribed.
I agree with you and maybe I will follow up with telling people to add a disconnect. I figured I was going to be the only guy ever working in the panel itself so I didn't bother.
Also, I was trying to tailor the video to typical homeowners regarding the tapcons. My friends would not go out and buy the big hammer drills that I have so I just to put up a few walls. I was trying to look for easy and inexpensive options. In the next framing video I will use a bigger drill.
Thanks for your input.
That's why LOTO was created (lock out tag out). The source is somehow locked to prevent tampering and tagged as 'out of service, do not touch' or similar. This plus electricians work as if it's hot and use insulated tools etc.
Wo
.
Ryobi is for the dyi person
sorry to tell but SER cable is not good for underground conduit.
Great. I asked an electrician buddy what I needed to buy. I guess even electricians make mistakes.
Those tapcons look like a pia! Use a ramset.
Sorry, I like tapcons better. You are right though, ramsets are faster and easier.
no, tapcons are stronger
Howany
Feet.is.your.sub..panel.fr.theain.panell.
Box..thamks
Around 45 feet.