I Built The World's BEST Cheap RC Basher! Omni Terminator FULL Upgrade!
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- Today we take the Rlaarlo Omni Terminator and take do an ultimate upgrade to it. Will this make it the worlds best small RC basher? Is better than the 1/16 Traxxas VXL? Will it destroy all 1/10 scale Arrmas? Let's find out!
Wow, what an incredible build! You’ve outdone yourself with the Omni Terminator FULL Upgrade. The attention to detail in every installation step is impressive, and seeing the upgraded Terminator in action - it’s like a beast unleashed! The performance is off the charts. Thanks for sharing this awesome transformation with us! 🏎💥🚀
They look to be very nice rc's. Ive been thinking about buying the Terminator myself
Thanks glad you enjoyed it!
If you're in the market for a smaller RC I would definitely recommend it. It's not perfect but I would say it's probably the best sub 1/10 scale RC you can buy right now
@@ConiferD it definitely is a chore.
I think the 1.5 mm head screws are definitely something they could address in the future but to be fair as long as you're careful and use good tools they won't strip. It's definitely not ideal but I'm not sure I would consider it a design flaw.
You're channel is not monetized? Mad props for that! Keep up the informative content!
Nope not monetized and I don't do affiliate link kickbacks on anything. Will do :-)
For real bro
@@Hungrybird474 :)
Thanks for doing this, as nobody else, not even the company is doing this.
The Omni is getting great love everywhere, but i'm missing one thing in this video: the car seems to have lots of wear (comparatively speaking) on the diffcups/outdrives. Lots of us were wondering how the full S2 dogbone+drivecups/CVD's and diffcups would perform in terms of wear. Obviously driving style is a factor, but it'd been really nice to see how the S2 driveline upgrade, which has to be near half or one-third the car's value, would hold up!
I did notice you may have kept the standard diffcups in the rear, with the s2 dogbones, so you may be up to something already, i'm not sure :) Oh and thank you for just doing this channel for the love of it.
I don't have a ton of packs through it yet but so far I haven't really noticed anywhere on the cups. I actually ended up leaving the stock front differential in because I only ended up getting one differential in my order. I guess we'll see how it goes long-term though.
@@DoRC ahh, okay! What i thought, is maybe you were testing the combination of S2 upgrades with standard parts. People have been saying their S2 diffcups are eating their standard dogbone's pins (shaving them off, not breaking) and the S2 dogbones are eating the standard diffcups jn the same fashion. Not many reports on the latter but in theory that makes sense; rlaarlo has stated that the comparative hardnesses of standard/S2 parts makes them incompatable with each other. They were comments on FB groups; they haven't released any actual statements afaik.
What also makes it tough to get a good reading in those groups; not everyone mentions if stock/4s. But lots of complaints about the wear, just very little reports of how a pure S2 drivetrain on stock power performs in terms of wear.. I, for one, really wonder. It's a good sign already from what you did in the video, no wear is present. 👍
@insanebmxthomas interesting because it seems like the pins are the same material on both the S2 and the standard dog bones. I'm probably not the best person to test long-term wear because I have several different vehicles I'm usually driving at any given time so none of them get a ton of use.
@DoRC i figured, but it would be telling if there was already some wear on your parts. Since you ran it on 4s from the start, i would argue that the upgrade S2 parts are probably stronger, although probably not wear-resistant. Which is normal, but until now excessive wear was the big issue according to the community :)
Finally someone that understands greasing gears. Just lil bit ya know
Yep:)
I seen guys pack the bulkheads 😂
Alot of them submerged there rc's is why they do that
@@RcPlayer-tt2vw Yes some people do it for waterproofing but I'm not terribly convinced.
@@justonjacoby4455 Yeah and I've tried that with limited success. At least in my experience going through mud and stuff like that you usually just end up with muddy grease
This is by far the best channel for rc.
Thanks!
And what does the terminator have a question about this car looks more like a predator, there is a predator drawn even at the bottom on the plate)!
@@peacefullife4384 you'd have to ask them. I have no idea why they name things the way they do
@ ок,It's clear that all the questions are narrow-eyed, well, the terminator is neither to the village nor to the city))
Another great instructional video, I love the tips you weave into the discussion about the fundamentals of RC building. Learned a lot from you bruh, appreciate it!
Glad you're enjoying. I love to share the knowledge that I have!
I love my terminator. I have done a lot of the same upgrades and atleast for my driving style it is bulletproof. I can't think of any trucks the size that handle so well. People think I am crazy but as far as fun factor it's one of the best rcs I have and I have a rather large collection! Great video as always sir!
Yeah it really is good. The only problem I have with it is landing big jumps it tends to bounce and flip over but to be fair it's not a very big truck and I'm not sure the suspension could ever be made to handle hitting the ground from 15 ft in the air.
@DoRC I agree. I put some Traxxas Rustler 4x4 tires on mine and it may just be me but they seem to bounce a little less on the big jumps but I mostly just rip around flat surfaces with mine.
Keep it up this channel is a great RC channel. Love the tear down before the bash.
Thanks glad you enjoyed!
Great video, cool build up & I always appreciate the extra info on tools, chemicals & techniques.
Cheers
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
X2
@Havingoneofthosedays- :)
Great video. Always great to learn something. May have to check out some of the conformal coating. I don't normally run in water and mud on purpose but things happen. Rlaarlo and some of the lesser known companies have really been putting out some great products. Great for the hobby. More good competition usually means everyone has to step up there game.
Yeah I think waterproofing is definitely one of those things that is nice to have even if you don't expect to get things wet.
This was a great video, thank you! I love my OT, and haven't done any upgrades, but you've given me some great ideas!
Yeah I don't think all the upgrades are necessary but it is nice that they offer a bunch of them.
Thanks for sharing . I like it . 👍 I’ve learned a lot about the RC s here . For me , this car has been super fun to learn how to jump a ramp in my backyard . It went in stages , lol . Lots of cartwheels , couple lawn darts , cpl rear hits . One time I jumped straight into a tree . Nothing broke which suprised me . I hope we can see more about this car . Mine s still stock but parts are incoming . Mr me dos went all out and it looked to be really quick in his vid . I don’t think it ever went to full trigger .
Yeah it's a very durable truck. I didn't really go full throttle in my video either. It's not really necessary with that much power :-)
Just got myself one of these yesterday and I've only gotten to drive it a little but I can already say that I love it. Honestly I'm considering selling my Arrma Granite now as that hasn't lived up to my expectations.
It's definitely a fun car. I think the granite is easier to work on but you do get more for your money out of the box with this
@@DoRC I bought my granite as a brushed one for a killer deal, I've put in the upgraded metal diffs, metal slipper clutch, good brushless system 130a ESC and a 550 motor and it just cogs so bad with having it geared conservatively.
@joeymendoza3859 when you say good brushless system which one specifically do you have and when you say geared conservatively what's your gearing? What's the KV of the motor?
@@DoRC so for combo I put my Dynamite Fuze 130a Esc and 3700kv 550 motor that came with my Losi 10MT which was an absolute beast so I figured it should run the Granite no problem. I forget what the exact gearing is but I want to say I only put the included 15t pinion on to start so I could see how the cogging was with that before I went with the higher one it also came with. I first had a Spektrum 3300kv combo in it with a 16t pinion and it was horrible so that's why I swapped with the Dynamite into it. For comparison the 10mt used an 18t pinion and a 40t spur mod 1 and had zero problems running it.
You make the best and most informative videos! Very much appreciated!
Thanks Glad you enjoy!
He really does imho .
And he gets right to it 👍
Absolutely brilliant explanations, and I'm glad I'm not the only one that uses a torx when I ruin a thread! 😆
Yeah it doesn't always work but it's definitely worth trying!
I love my rlarlo omni terminator, this is the kind of content i love to watch. Great job brotha
Thanks Glad you enjoyed watching I enjoyed making it!
Great content! I am genuinely surprised that this channel isnt monetised and almoat feel disappointed you arent being paid for the amount of effort you clearly put in to these videos
The value I draw from the channel comes from interacting with you guys and in that way I feel very Well paid. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
Excellent video! Really wanting to add one of these to my fleet! I'm constantly looking at the Carbon Roller version as I already have the electronics it needs and it gives me more money to spend on the upgrades lol
Definitely a fun truck. I would consider getting the servo adapter that I got as the stock servo is an odd size and you don't really have a lot of options for it.
Love this channel. Just got this and a armma typhoon to upgrade. Thanks for the explanations and help
Nice!
I sure like the Terminator and these upgrades were the icing on the cake , that lil dude looks killer! great job
Yeah they're not all necessary but they sure do look good!
Love it keep the good and helpful videos up my favorite RC UA-camr👍🔥
Awesome glad you enjoyed and a lot more is coming!
Very nice build!
At around the same price, would you rather have the Carbon Omni Terminator or a HPI XS Flux?
OT all day long. The HPI was a pretty cool car when it first came out but it's kind of outdated hard to work on and has some weak points that are pretty difficult to address given that they're really aren't any upgrades available for it.
@DoRC thank you very much for your insights!
Nice vid. Loved how you turned the stripped screw into a teachable moment. I have the cf version and plan to keep it on 3s. What would you recommend for the biggest pinion size on 3s?
That I'm not sure. I haven't really done much experimentation with gearing on this truck. The best thing to do in most cases is just buy some gears and see what works best for you. You're bashing style will always affect what gearing is best so it works for one person might not work for another one anyway
Hi guy's I've got the Rlaarlo omni terminator carbon model. And I've changed motor to 3652 3100kv esc 120amp hobbywing and I've changed most of the dilly small screws for bigger and better with Louise 2.8 wheels and now it's a backflip machine. Yeah it was over kill with parts. I've ordered the steering mount so I can go a bigger motor 😂😂. Great video as always 👍 😅
Sounds like a sweet setup!
for your bigger screws, did you drill and then use the tool make bigger grooves?
RLAARLO really nailed it with this model.
Such a good one
It's definitely a step up!
@@DoRC 1000% agree
I didn’t like that brand until that one
Wow, incredible video. Thank you!! You guys know the part number for the tires he used?
I don't remember the part number but just look up Traxxas rustler talon tires. I think they're actually using something different now so they might be hard to find
I was with you on the best little RC car basher until I seen those Traxxas tires 😂😂😂, Traxxas tires are about the worst big name RTR tires that you can possibly get . Good video dude love gour channel👍
In general I agree especially with the bigger tires but the rustler 4x4 tires are actually pretty good
@@ConiferD Well hopefully you made an exception for this video :-)
Love these little trucks, you can basically do anything you want with them and with basic maintenance they will just keep going, these upgrades have definitely improved it dude great job man, only thing I hated was the stripped bolt lol game me bad anxiety 😂😆 but you defeated it in the end 👍
Yeah the screws on this truck definitely aren't the highest quality so you do have to be careful not to strip them out. This is especially true for the little m 1.5 head ones.
I don’t know why they need to have them so small when they know it’s gonna get wrenched on at some point and then to loctite them aswell is a bit backwards because so much time goes into making the cars visually appealing so to then have to potentially damage the chassis with a dremmel tool just to remove nuts and bolts seems weird to me lol I guess it just comes down to more metal equals more money
@@lyricalcoma1979 I really don't think it was a cost saving thing. To be honest it feels more like whoever did it just didn't understand that screw size is inappropriate for this type of vehicle.
Just subscribed to your channel. Did anything break on that truck during that bashing session? If not I'm definitely going to have to do the same lol. Great content.
No I didn't have any breakages. Thanks for the sub!
Awesome video! How is it to work on? Do you prefer this or the Gorgon brushless?
I'd say it's about average to work on. Certainly not the easiest but far from the hardest. It's kind of hard to compare to the Gorgon. The gorgon's larger by a little bit and two wheel drive so they're very different trucks.
Awesome video. My only complaints with mine are I wish Rlaarlo would make a better mounting option for relocating the ESC to run longer batteries. Zip tying it to the center brace just doesn’t seem very secure. Also the ability to tune the stock ESC would be nice. The brake force is way to high.
Agreed. They wouldn't be too hard to design in 3D print something that would go on the rails and given that they include the ability to run longer batteries they definitely should have come up with something for the ESC. I'm honestly surprised they don't have an upgrade option for it.
I received my stock carbon version today and I was very surprised how much fun these are. I have had several Traxxas vehicles and this is just as fun at a way lower cost. Its torky enough to have it self right. I dont know how fast I got it stock, but it was darned fast for 3S. Now its upgrade time
Yeah it's a good truck! Glad you're enjoying it :-)
great video as always, the main problem i have with it is that after few driver it doesnt return to the same stance.
I checked pretty much everything, socks are fine oil filled idk really.
BTW what bits are you using, i striped so many screws that i start thinking maybe im using low quality bits ?
It's usually happens when dirt gets in the pivot points and binds the suspension. Couple that with the really thick shock fluid and that might be your problem. Best thing to do is to unhook the shocks and see if the arms move freely then see if the shocks move freely. You might want to try some thinner fluid too
Great video! Do you have a before and after weight?
No but other than the tires and battery it's not really going to weigh a whole lot more. Maybe an ounce or so.
Very good job , thank for sharing this with us
Glad you enjoyed thanks for watching!
Loved the build man ... just ordered myself one .. awesome work
Awesome you should enjoy it!
Love your video, brother! I look forward to seeing you again soon.
Definitely more coming! Thanks for watching :-)
Great video as usual 👌
Thanks!
Just rite amount of upgrades really. GREAT JOB
Thanks!
Awesome video! What center diff oil did use-recommend? I’m updating my center diff as well. Thanks in advance
I just put a little bit of silicone ear plug in with the stock fluid. Didn't really measure it out.
I usually skip straight to the drill and extractor set on stripped screws. Usually doing things the hardest way first saves time in the long run. What's the ballpark total on all those parts? Excluding electronics you have to be getting close to the original purchase price. As it sits you have a big brand 6s basher priced terminator. It sure looks good tho.
All of the upgrades actually cost more than the original truck and yeah it's definitely up to the price of a 6S basher but I try to think of it in terms of the fact that I would probably be upgrading the 6s basher too.
Awesome video absolutely enjoyed it thank you so much for that video
Thanks for watching Glad you enjoyed :-)
Great video as always, just wondering if you can give us a estimate on all the upgrades? Thanks and happy holidays.
I don't really remember but to be honest with you I wouldn't recommend upgrading all of this stuff. You can get all the prices from the rlaarlo website though.
Great video, I really appreciate what you do with the OT. Question: do you have any issues with heat at 4S with the original motor? Or did you change the pinion? I am struggeling with high temps in the summer in my backyard at 3S and standard motor and pinion.
No issues on 4S with the original motor. I'm using the original pinion. When you say you're having heat issues what is the actual temperature of the motor?
@@DoRC I did not have my heat gun at hand but I could not touch the motor and the car started cogging. I am using a 60A Max10 btw. I will measure the temps next time.
@facedezizi4252 Yeah definitely check it with a gun. Too hot to touch doesn't necessarily mean too hot to run with a brushless motor. Physical discomfort starts at around 135° for most people and modern brushless motors are good up to around 190. As far as the cogging the motor getting hot really shouldn't cause that unless it's getting so hot that the magnets are losing their magnetism. That's really really hot though.
The servo, the cvd and the ball bearing in the steering set are, in my opinion, the only upgrade needed. All that aluminium will notnimprove anything, high quality tough plastic is, in my opinion, a cheaper and better option than any metal. Also for a basher i would have loved an high torque servo saver, consideing the possible landing and the stress that servo will be througj. Still nice video!!
I mostly agree. I even said as much at the end of the video:). A lot of these parts look good but especially on this car which is already so tough don't really add much. Fortunately with as good of a servo as I installed you can get away with pretty much as locking up the servosaver. Glad you enjoyed :-)
That rear hub is a good upgrade 👌. My stock one broke quickly 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Good info. I have never broken one but the upgrade does seem worthwhile.
Got the roller and a lot of the same upgrades. Using similar low profile servo on upgraded mount. That mount doesn’t work with 40 series motor, fyi. Motor too long so using kingval 3660 2600kv instead running on 4s.
Ran into same problem with stripped 1.5 screw but on the pinion set screw. Stuck with the 27t pinion now and the motor runs HOT on 4s.
Any advice on removing the pinion without a bearing puller? Tried a butane torch but I couldn’t break the thread lock I used. Tried your other tricks without luck. Worried the 27t is gonna blow it. Was at 170° after one pack.
Also what double sided tape do you use? My esc won’t stay stuck with all the abuse. Think the heat caused the tape to release.
Great video. Great basher. Btw the upgraded shock screws are a must. The stock ones bend at the offset.
The two options I would try for the pinion would be to put the gear in a vise and try to use a punch to hammer the motor out from it or just drill out the grub screw. Either one is likely to damage the gear though so you might want to just buy a new gear. They're not terribly expensive.
That being said 170 is warm but not dangerously hot.
Just ordered the carbon version because of you, I’m excited. Can I run 4s with stock motor? Was thinking of just slapping a 120a esc
Technically according to them the motor is only 3S compatible but it should be fine on 4S.
@@DoRC I emailed them last night and they said I just need a 120a esc to run 4s out of the box
@@Danielxperez14 Sweet! Yeah the motor isn't specifically rated for 4S anywhere I saw but it's good that they acknowledge its capable.
@@DoRC yea on their Instagram they run theirs 4s with 3900kv which seems a little high, I’d probably do 3300kv 3660 if it fits
Hello :) great video like always :) Rlaarlo also brought to the shop new aluminum differential boxes.I just got mine and they looks awesome :) I'm waiting when my default parts will break and after I'm planning to swap all S2 parts plus aluminium differentials with boxes :) Hope that S2 diff cups will be stronger bcuz mine started to worn off after 6 battery packs :(
I saw that. They were released after I ordered all my parts though.
Same here hahahaa I ordered the diffs and S2 parts at 24th of May and saw boxes at 28th , bought It straight away and the funny thing is that It arrived before the package which I ordered at 24th XD
Nice build bro! Always a fun watch
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
great call on the rustler tires! I
Yeah they definitely are good value for money.
very good content, smooth looking video, subscribed! keep it up!
Thanks will do!
Would you recommend to upgrade the gearboxes to aluminum? I’ve upgraded all of my drive train except for the differentials and gearboxes. Should I just do the differentials or do you think it would be any better with aluminum housing?
If you want the aluminum for the looks then go for it but otherwise I'd wait and only upgrade if you start breaking things.
@ cool man thanks!
As far as torx bits go s2 tool steel tends to snap rather than strip the tios and xv torx bits tends to round off the tips instead of snap or break. Just a little personal experience for ya
Good info!
Love it bro keep up the great content
Thanks Glad you enjoy!
im gonna get one of these soon, would you recommend drive this in rain or any wet surface, I have seen this shutdown when fall in to water
Rain and general splashing should be fine. I definitely wouldn't suggest submerging it though
@@DoRC how do you clean this rc.. do you use a compressor or just brush the durt off
@@Nero123-c6e I pretty much always wash all of my RC's off with a hose then blow off with compressed air and put in front of a fan to finish drying. That being said I understand the risk and I'm willing to just replace any electronics that get killed because I'm not willing to clean them any other way as I just don't have the time for it. It's not necessarily something I would recommend to everyone on a vehicle that isn't specifically 100% waterproof though.
@@DoRC i have seen many people do the same , problem is the risk that we should take that it would fry any electronics, but there's no way to keep it more cleaner other than that. there's lot to learn getting into this hobby ,but interesting :)
Our upgrades are fairly similar besides I put a spool in for a center diff and I did the upper arms simply because I am an alignment guy. Oh, 6s too. These things are a trip out the box and only get better. I got mine to 72mph on Hoons.
Nice!
Would love you to see upgrading the Vorteks 223S.
I'm probably not going to do an upgrade video on that but I do have one coming for the granite so stay tuned
I just ordered one this evening! Where are you finding upgrades &/or replacement parts in the USA? eBay only has drive axles... Thank you
Best place to get it straight from Rlaarlo site.
Ya you need mini torch the groove should’ve been enough, you have to cut chassis little bit sometimes I think just afraid to go to deep
Not sure. I got the screw pretty hot. Unfortunately the screws in this car pretty soft so even with the slot it's still ended up just ripping through. To be fair though you're right I didn't want to cut a big groove in the chassis so I just decided to drill it out after that.
Do you recommend installing a mesh cover to prevent grass, rocks etc inside?
I'd say it depends. I usually don't really have problems with stuff getting in the gears and I bash in pretty very terrain but that doesn't mean no one will have problems. I would recommend driving it and if you run into trouble then address it at that time.
@ hell yeah thats what i was thinking because some people start making 3D printed covers specially for the open center differential but you are right only address when it happens
You know it's big air time when the cinderblocks are under the ramp ! 🚀 🌙
Yep! That's usually when things start breaking :-)
The spacers needed for the aluminum hubs are a cost saver for them and us. This design allows an easy way to adjust wheelbase using different spacers and washers. But then again this isn't an onroad car where you would want to fine tune the wheelbase for different bodies but it's still an option.
Yeah maybe. I get the feeling it's more for them than it is for us :-)
That is good to know the carbon versus comes with better diff gears and other goodies, I don't think anyone has mentioned that before.
Yeah it actually has quite a few improvements. The gears the carbon the better transmitter and receiver larger motor and ESC and supposedly the body is made out of lexan whereas the alloy one is made out of PVC but they feel the same to me.
What is that stuff called that you put into the diff? Should i use that or just some 30k/50k weight silicone oil?
Depends on how thick you want to go. 30 and 50k is pretty thin for bashing especially in the center differential. I was using silicone ear plug but that's not really necessary You can get some 10 million and use a little of that or even 1 million or 500k. It really just depends on your own preferences.
Got all my s2 this weekend and a castle 1415 ;-)
Sweet
Can you just use a standard size servo? Seems like there will be enough space under the body.
Yeah that shouldn't be a problem. I originally got the low profile servo because that was planning on putting a receiver box on top of it but there is a decent amount of extra space so a standard servo should fit fine
Did you not miss the stability control the og rx gets
No. I don't ever use a gyro so I wouldn't miss it.
Mini blow torch works far better on thread locked screws, soldering iron just dosn't get the screws hot enough or heat penetrated deep enough. Especially on motor mount screws & diff mount screws, where some manufacturers go over the top on amount of thread lock used on screws. Also some factories use red or perminant thread locker, some even use ca glue instead of thread locker. Blow torch makes short work of undoing screws, obviously you have to be carefull of any plastic parts close to the area being heated.
Maybe so but I've used both methods pretty extensively and I find that well the soldering iron method does take longer and you need a good iron in order for it to work in some cases it's still superior due to the fact that you really can't harm anything around it like you can with a torch.
@@DoRC I agree on the torch being a bit rowdy, i've scorched my Omni's diffcase trying to get the center shaft outdrive off, lol. But i also have a background in RMA electronics repair, and definitely noticed the difference between bad/good irons and lots of/little thermal mass on your workpiece. Thermal mass can be a beach. I'm a fan of the torch, where possible, because it's always powerful enough.
@@insanebmxthomasmmmmyeeeeaaahhhhh myeh myeh myeeeeeaaaaahh
Screw thermal mass. I put the soldering iron on the part and set a 10 minute timer. LocTite doesn't stand a chance, even surrounded by aluminum.
i just recently got one and i was wondering there's a way to adjust the steering? i used the receiver to adjust it but regardless it pulls left or right. when i have it off and look at the wheels one is always slightly pointing out, any advice would be greatly appreciated this my first rc truck and having hard time
Having the tires towed out in the front is normal. That allows it to drive properly under acceleration. Usually usually if you're getting pulling in both directions it means that there's something loose in the steering. I'd recommend wiggling everything and seeing if something is loose or missing.
@@DoRC I meant however I adjust it it will pull one way and not drive straight, when I look at the tires when it's just sitting regardless how I adjust the steering one tire will be straight and other will be point outwards. I'll check and see if anything is loose or try gyro setting see if that helps it drive more straight
I like that brand servo , the cheaper one they have is few bucks more than Amazon ones and a lot better , with heating screws the mini blow torch works better ,?usually you here a crackle 😂atleast with Arrmas
The blowtorch will be faster you just have to really careful not to damage anything around them.
Best cheap? How much did all the uogrades cost? iw much was the truck? How much was the receiver? Cheap as compared to what?
The upgrades did cost money but compared to how much it costs to upgrade higher-end vehicles it's cheap. The car itself can be had for less than $200 on sale. I would say it's cheap as compared to 90% of the RC market that isn't little Amazon specials.
Thank you so much for this!! ❤
Thanks for watching Glad you enjoyed!
That's not overdoing that fine just to bring a good smile
Agreed:)
Do you know the shaft width on that 3650 motor?
I don't remember and I don't have it anymore sorry.
Watching this again this is my fav rebuild
Thanks for rewatching I'm glad you enjoyed it
your like the replacement for ultimate rc, in fact your even better :)
That's about the best compliment I could hope to get. Ultimate RC was the primary inspiration for the creation of my channel.
@@DoRC well you took the inspiration well
@WowoodogPlays thanks:)
Do you recommend this car stock or is it only good after upgrades? I was looking at the laegendary thunder brushless and putting a 3s on it, this one looks a lot cooler but price is a big difference as well
This car is very good stock. I have heard some complaints of the output cups wearing relatively quickly but that's going to happen with cheaper cars as well. Overall in my opinion this is the best sub 1/10 scale car you can get right now.
@@DoRC cool I just hope I can find spare parts easy with fast delivery
@@Danielxperez14 The only place I know of is straight from relarlo. They seem to have a pretty good supply though.
It’s f in awesome - I’m gonna get the upgrades as soon as I fix the silly thing it’s stoped wrking after my first bash - didn’t even get to finish the battery- not I could handle it on 4s, but….
What broke?
I just got this. I definitely want those Rustler tires.
They're a good upgrade.
I have a question for you.. i noticed on my sledge the stock servo held the line leading up to the ramp much better than my 70kg brushless servo , i noticed while they are off rge stock servo is also much harder to turn than the brushless servo which is supposedly alot more powerful, so is this just how brushless servos are compared to simple digital or coreless servos ?
If you're having problems with the new servo staying straight it's possible that It has a pretty large mechanical deadband which basically means that the servo horn doesn't always end up pointing in the same direction. You can test this by holding the truck still turning to the left noting where the wheels end up then turning the right and noting where the wheels end up. If it's two different places then there's definitely a problem. As far as ease to move by hand the higher end servos usually have higher quality gear trains in them which makes them easier to move. The highest quality servos can actually be moved by just grabbing the output with your hand and turning it. You'll never be able to do that with lower quality ones.
This guy went all in
Yessir!
. . . Just Got My Carbon Version . . .
This Thing Is So Powerful & Fast Out Of The Box . . . Even Gently Slowing Down You Have To Feather It And Still Does Front Wheel Stand And Will Flip Over Forward So Be Careful . . . Included 3S Lipo Battery Last 20+ Minutes But Ima Be Looking For Some Taller 3S Lipos At My Local Hobby Connection . . . Huge Difference Over My Jetwood Truggy Or Yidedraw Striker G . . . Omni Terminator Is On Another Level
Yeah it's definitely a good truck.
@@DoRC way better than the ultra flimsy jetwood truggy
@DroidLocks6971 yep
My biggest problems with mine are the battery coming out,and the upper shock bolts (front especially) bending in tumbles because they're nearly the same height as the body mounts.
I haven't had any issues with my battery yet. Have you tried a better strap?
Yeah upper shock mounts are pretty common to be damaged. I wonder if there's something else that could be adapted that's stronger.
@@DoRC stock setup entirely. Gonna try the included parts for a larger battery/2 straps. I think the shock bolt issue could be solved just by raising the body 1/4" or so
Great vid bro 👍👍
Thanks!
What is the steering servo brand that was put in?
It's an AGFRC. They make a lot of servos for other brands such as power hobby and even the perfect pass.
@@DoRC thank you.
Just did my first real bash with this thing stock, 3 packs nothing broke only esc came off, what double sided tape do you recommend?
3M VHB is the way to go.
@@DoRC thanks man, any specific size? Or 1”
How are the s2 outdrive cups holding up on 4s power?
So far so good though admittedly I don't have a ton of packs through it yet.
@DoRC right on, I really want one of these or the mjx 10208 once it comes out looks really promising with the 4s capability out of the box, I'm sure both have their pros/cons like every RC.
My favorite channel by far
That's awesome I'm glad you're enjoying!
Great video!
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
11:34 Yeah, idk why but I always go for the drill first.
The drill is definitely a surefire way but it's also potentially one of the most difficult ways depending on how much screw you end up with once you've drilled off the head.
Can’t count how many bearing I have replaced in steering bell cranks. They do bushings cause they last longer with dirt and water VRs bearings. Not uncommon and more basher friendly. On big cars bearings are better being the size of them last longer.
Maybe but you would think if that was the case then higher end bashers would use bushings instead of bearings. And my experience only cheap cars use bushings in the steering which leads me to believe it's a cost thing.
Strangely I haven't really replaced any more bearings and steering than I have in anything else.
My Team Magic e5 ARR uses bushings as well. That thing is definitely on the more expensive end as far as 10th scale trucks are concerned as well.
I actually did replace them with bearings once, but as I couldn't for the life of me tell the difference I went back to the bushings.
The bushing used in my old nitro truck wear off pretty quick and introduces a lot of steering play. After changing them to bearings, i have no more issue at all..
Shims are good between the hubs/arms as you can alter the wheelbase quickly and easily. I’d be making it longer with 4s 😅
Sort of but usually it's a very minimal amount and not really something that would dramatically alter the characteristics of the vehicle. That sort of adjustment is good for really fine tuning in racing situations but on a basher it really isn't going to make any noticeable difference.
@@DoRC4-5mm on a car this scale is a huge difference, increased stability and bump handling is also a asset for bashing. The two cars I’ve done it on, axial exo( Oem spacers) and big block nitro revo ( techno swept back arms ) had great improvement in all types of driving. Yeah I’m that old 😂. A square ( as wide as it is long)mt like the Omni would benefit with any length you can give it. Mines in the mail and will be one of the first things i try
Oh also did a extended chassis nitro savage (twisted toys chassis with delrin tube roll cage)many years before the XL became a thing. That was in another league compared to stock but a much bigger task and many more dollars than moving a couple spacers 😅. All 3 I regret selling
Sounds like a good experiment! Let me know how it goes :-)
Dang it,I could never take it apart.id be lost trying to put it back together 😢.
You might be selling yourself short. There are definitely a lot of parts and screws but if you take your time take pictures of things put screws back where they came from and put them in labeled bags if you can't do that it's definitely doable even for someone with very little experience. I would recommend starting small and just take a little bit of it apart and put it back together again but ultimately stuff usually only goes back together one way and as long as you take your time and especially take a break if you get frustrated you can do it
Where might I find the sealed bearings if not in a kit is there a universal pack
I always buy my bearings on Amazon. I'd recommend looking at the parts list for the truck and just buying a pack of each size of bearings. You'll end up with a bunch left over but they're not that expensive and it's really nice to have extras.
Love mine but same speed as you and only 3s so lighter. I think 4s is overkill for this. I over power my rc's just don't think it's worth it on this one I love mine. My servo mount should be here soon
The vehicle actually doesn't affect top speed it only affects acceleration. Were you testing yours off-road? I like to test top speed in practical off-road situations because that's how most people will be driving when they're bashing. On road with ideal conditions this would probably do 50 miles an hour in its current setup.
I stripped the same exact screw on the motor mount I even tried heat first 🤦🏻♂️
Yeah unfortunately a combination of not the best quality screws and apparently very good quality thread locked tends to lead to that situation.
Are you gonna get the pro boat jet stream ?
I don't have any plans to. If I can come up with a decent idea for a video then I definitely will but For now no
Are the screws m2 or m3?
Mostly M2 and M2.5
I would do exactly what you did . 100% . No alum arms . I just got a re build pack for the 3s rlaarlo truggy and I won’t be using the arms . For this I got the hubs and 17mm but might not use them depending if I find some tires 4” ish tall I believe 108 mm according to rlaarlo is the max height range but … i just got back from a large construction site with a k6s . They had sloped ramps everywnere and slag spread and rolled flat . There was jumps everywhere DO RC ! It was rough though . It was my first time at a spot like that . I m used to the grass and the same ramp , lol .
Yeah it's always an interesting experience bashing on new terrain! Thanks for watching :-)