I mark the crank, the cams, and the belt before taking the old belt off. Then I transfer the marks to the new belt and then put it on. I was made fun of for doing that and called an idiot, but it worked out great for me. Seeing this validates my methods. I also turned the crank manually several times before starting it just to make sure nothing was hitting the valves.
I did the same a few months ago when doing mine , glad I marked the old belt and transfered it over because it was a tooth out until I used more force to get it on to the cam pulley. Saved me alot of heart ache.
I do the exact same thing. I even count the teeth. But I know when I put the belt on and the marks match up on the pulleys. I can start it up without even turning the crank. Confidence.
@JasonKing-m6m For some of us, me included, it's easier/inspires confidence/is a redundant quality check point if we're looking at big, neon bright, obvious paint marks we made ourselves rather than squinting at faint lines engraved in metal. The factory marks work of course, but I like to eliminate thinking when I can because thinking means I can make a mistake. Mark the belt and gears, transfer marks to the new belt - no thinking required, just a little care.
@@JasonKing-m6m I agree, however if the you install the belt with just the smallest amount of slack, you could be a tooth off. I;m sure a pro would have no problem with this, but as a diyer, I don't want to take that chance.
At least the guy was honest and owned up to it, rather than the old: "My brother-in-law said that he could fix it, so to make my wife happy, I let him try". 😂
Getting in over your head does make you learn fast. I did a timing belt on my old Frontier, got in over my head, started getting that panic feeling. I took a break, came back, worked through methodically and figured it out. It sucked but I learned more in that project than just about anything else I’ve done.
Yeah, great advice. I fear in some people's cases, they might only have enough money to do the repair themselves. Not sure if that applies in this situation.
That is amazing. I haven't seen a scope used in 20 years, most dealerships I have worked for didn't have one!😮thank you for sharing this video, great information!
That's incredible. 20 years in independent garages, and used a scope in all of them. So many uses... I guess when you have a room of parts on hand you just load up the canon and pray lol
ive worked at plenty of shops and was the only one using them, the other technicians has always been high school drop outs, low level junk yard parts changers
That was great how you focused in on this one procedure. And respect for not shaming the DIY'er for making a mistake, like I've seen other channels do.
Being a former honda tech. Always did the amp clamp. Honda's are notorious for burnt valves and people not doing timing belts properly or over rev conditions from the customer owning a teenager. Hey man. congrats on the youtube channel growing. I don't say it often cause in fussy. there's alot of fake sponsored channels out there who preach instead of teach! keep up the good work.
Mistakes are an integral part of learning. Obviously try and not make costly one i.e. do your research before hand. This video is extremely informative. Time is money in the automotive business. This technique is quick to at least point in the direction quickly!
The explanation of the scope usage was amazing. You are really a good teacher, you explain things so a normal guy like me can understand it. I hope to see some more scope stuff in the future.
I did the timing belt kit myself on my Odyssey. This outcome was my worst fear so I followed the factory service manual instructions to the letter and triple checked alignment before daring to start it.
I've done it as well. I just followed the service manual. There was no mystery to it if you can read and take your time. I think there's people out there who tackle these jobs without a service manual.
you need a service manual or cd for your specific model and manufacturer and year (ie say 2003 honda accord). helps a lot so youre sure the belt is properly aligned
It also really useful to mark all the pulleys and old belt carefully and compare against the new belt going on i.e. pre-mark the new belt in the exact same place. Occasionally you will find that some belts do vary between model years i.e. one might be slightly longer and this is a good way of double checking. A Peugeot 306 tried that one on me so just as well I checked...
Same here, did my very first timing belt / water pump on my wife's 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid last summer. It was both exciting and terrifying but in the end was not the huge deal I made it out to be in my own mind. I also have a Honda Odyssey and plan to do the timing belt on that one too.
I never thought about the correlation between voltage drop/current increase by the Starter when the Piston travels up under compression as a way to find a low compression cylinder. That was indeed interesting. Thanks for the great explanation. I have several Oscilloscopes I use for nonautomotive work, I might see if I can set one up the way you described it. Again thanks for showing us this technique to find which which cylinder has low compression. Also, us amateur DIYer's got to discern what we can do and what we can't do. If I can find a shop with someone like you with your diagnostic skills, life would be gooder.
really great video reminded me to start using my scope for more than a dust collector. I have struggled with the scope trying to always get the settings correct i really see now that using it regular will become normal not fear thanks so much. really wish there was some schools in southeast i'm 68 but still want to keep moving and understanding your channel has become the go to channel thanks again
Our small independent shop uses those Aisin timing belt kits. They’re made in Japan but assembled for sale in the US. Great video on the approach and diagnosis. From Southern AZ, Happy New Year to you and your shop.
I have never done a relative test, only a compression or leak down, but certainly makes sense on a transverse V engine. Seems very simple and saves a lot of time.
Great. Video love the channel, I am an engineer not a mechanic but I enjoy learning more about the subject. Designing electrical systems we now use more and more electronics even though primarily working with high voltage.❤
Ive never done this before, but im starting to learn how to use amperage to diagnose different components. Alot more learning to go for training to master current flow measurements. But this video is a good one.
Your engine noise making at 2:25 is almost as good as Wally the gas station owner on The Andy Griffith Show when he diagnosed Mr. Tucker's Lincoln's bad fuel pump from the front porch on Sunday afternoon. That Wally was a legend. He had a boat that would do 60 and Gomer said that's fast on water. I bet if he was around today he would be crazy incredible with a scope and an amp clamp. 🤣🤣
Great video explanation for something I have never done. Easy straight forward way to use your tools to get an accurate diagnosis, quickly, the reason I am here. We DIY;d a Honda J32 engine a couple of times, but followed the belt marking route, as noted above. No issues, double checking and hand cranking to make sure.
Having done a honda v6 timing belt as a diy'er, there is a trick to make sure the belt it in the correct position before pulling the tensioner pin. Before you pull off the old belt, use a paint marker to put wittness marke on the cam zero marks and a mark that you mark on the crank. I always mark the points on the belt the same way, either point or tooth. Pull your old belt and transfer these marks to your new belt. Install the new belt, lining up the marks with your cam and crank marks. Once the belt is installed, hand crank the engine 2 revs and the thr marks should line back up.
I did this on my two honda timing belt replacements. It makes it so easy. It's easy to not pull the belt tight enough and be one tooth off. The marks you make (different from the cam and crank TDC marks) make it easy to see if you're off a tooth.
I did the same thing ..lucky or me it was on a 4 cylinder. I had done several timing belts prior over the years but due to complacency in my part and not triple checking I was off a tooth and that’s all it took. I removed the cylinder head and had a trusted machine shop examine the issue. Some minor contact with two valves needed to be replaced. I’ve done multiple engines since and other work hence. Now, I check & recheck and usually employ a physical method to eliminate any cam / crank rotation once the marks are set. However , with this said I still check it again and turn it manually several rotations as well. Consequently..I do my homework and make sure I know as much as I can about possible issues prior. I learned a lot from that one mistake and it makes me extremely diligent when I am working on something new or different for the first time.. We learn and move on..
Awesome video as always Sherwood. When seeing the waveform upside down rather than either getting out of the car to flip the Amp clamp or hit the invert button and recapture I find it easier to go into the process menu and enter -1 and multiply for the appropriate channel. Instant flip of the waveform. Escope has some amazing features.
Great video! Apparently some folks have bent a valve/valves JUST from the springing action of the bank one camshaft. I've had the cam spring off the mark before, but thankfully I've never had bent valves. Happy New Year!
That's what happened more than likely. If he had timing far off for piston to interfere with valve, it would have not only just happened on 1 cylinder...
When I did my valve stem seals on my BMW E91 N46 motor, after following a UA-cam-video DIY, I was VERY nervous starting it the first time, To my surprise it worked, and still does. I did turn the motor over by hand a few times to make sure it went smooth before starting it though - Not a job I would enjoy doing again, Thanks for the video!
On my diesel rabbit pickup... step one is to first setup everything in time... (to get the timing marks and cam lobes in their proper position) then take the belt off. Then after the new belt is on... turn the engine over by hand to make sure the valves aren't hitting the top of the piston. We can have the valve clearance and still have the injector pump be 180 degrees off time if we turn it or change it out. The reason we get all of the timing marks and valve ears lined up is its just best practices and we know where we are by looking at the timing marks and position of the lifter ear lobes. The lifter ear lobes can be in the up position and the pump timing can still be out of phase on a new head. So the cam would need to be rotated until the ears come back up again if it won't start. The diesel pump timing is set with a dial gauge screwed into the back of the Bosch injector pump.
I've been bitten by the getting in over my head stuff, too had a BMW 330xi that would randomly run rough. Went to some forums, watched a bunch of UA-cam videos, and became convinced that it was a VANOS issue. (A variable valve timing system that would allow the engine to dynamically change the timing of the intake or exhaust valves based on RPM). After dicking with the fuel injectors, coils, etc., I decided to jump in and disassemble the entire top end and replace the entire VANOS system. Didn't help much. One of my neighbors, who used to work at AutoZone lol, tell me that I should check the oxygen sensors. Nah. I would have gotten a code for that. I had a BMW scan tool, and a laptop with a factory program that would allow me to check and change all manner of things. I had just decided that I had driven her too hard for too long, and I'd have to live with an intermittently rough running engine. Well, I gave the car to my niece when she went to college, and the next summer, she said that it was getting worse. So I decided: "What the hell... O2 sensors are cheap, might as well change 'em. Wouldn't you know, that car ran smoother than it had in many years, and she drove it about 30,000 more miles before she sold it.😂
Code reader 'techs' are the worst. Years ago I had numerous 4.9 Cadillacs brought to me because of unstable idle. I saw all kind of things done...replaced ISC motors, fuel regulators and pumps, etc, etc. Almost every time it was the TPS. The TPS on those cars would get 'scratchy', but would not set a code. If there is no code, it's good...right? Codes can point you in the right direction but are NOT the be all and end all.
Cool. You could also use a US quarter on top of COP with a lead touching it to record when it fires. It's an alternative to back probing connector. Also, you can put a plus sign on the side of the amp clamp which faces battery plus terminal to make setup faster.
That stinks... poor owner was trying to save himself some money and take some pride in an accomplishment and ended up costing him probably triple as much. At Christmas time no less. I give him kudos for trying. If he's reading this: next time take the spark plugs out and turn the engine by hand a couple of revolutions if you're uncertain. You'll feel piston/valve contact without doing damage if it is off.
I'm glad he tried to do the job himself and he admitted that he made a mistake. However, he should have tried doing the timing job on a same exact van in the junkyard first or tried to perform a timing job on a non interference engine first. I learned how to do a timing belt on a 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 engine which is a non interference engine. My first timing chain I did was on a junkyard car.
Honda service manuals are incredibly awesome. If you're doing Honda work as a DIYer, just buy one. They're not expensive and unbelievably helpful. I've done Honda SOHC and DOHC 4 cylinders and it was straight forward. I did do things double safe, lining up the old belt and marking exactly where the timing marks are. Then I put white marks on the new belt to match. This tells me after everything is finished and the belt tensioned that nothing has moved. Compared to Audi or Porsche, it's so much easier and straight forward.
35 yr auto tech here, !0 yrs ago got I got a Pilot in my bay, came from a used car lot and work was done under warranty. My invoice said " Valve adjustment and Timing belt Water pump, I go out to get the car It's running on 3 cylinders on sounds like there is no oil in it. So I pull the covers and TDC the engine, the firewall side cam was a 9 oclock, right where it lands if the cam springs without the belt on, so I reset the cam and finish that part. Pull the valve covers for the valve adjustment, long story short all the valves were at 30 thousands, spec is 9 in 11 exhaust. I think the previous guy confused MM with inches. Re did everything car ran fine
You should do a leak down test, see if leaking from intake, or exhaust valve, piston most likely kissed the valves. Maybe can get by with just sending out the head. But you need to know for sure if its a valve, and boar scope the top of pistons
I thought about doing belt on my 2003 V6 Accord but decided against it. Lining up the timing didn't scare me but I just didn't want to remove everything to get to it and reassemble. It's tight quarters in there and I already work 70 hours a week as it is at my regular job! I paid $900 to a shop.
Very good!, also remember on Honda Acura J35 motors , valve lash adjustments are needed every 30 k , they are sensitve and many times they are tight to zero lash because no one has done the service.
Absolutely correct. I just did my valve lash adjustments on my ‘04 Pilot (200K miles), along with sparks plugs, spark plug tube seals, pcv valve, valve cover seals, and spark plug boot seals. Obviously the exhaust valves were tighter than the intakes. A GOOD manual is imperative.
I see this as well. Customer complains of misfires and previous shop throws plugs and coils at it but the misfires continue. I perform a valve adjustment (the valves are almost always too tight) and the vehicle is running fine again. I don’t know why this isn’t more well known.
Every 30k??? Honda disagrees. Honda recommends inspecting valve clearance every 105k miles. The exhaust get tighter, the intakes get a little looser, but most people at 105k are still fine. I'd say 150k is really the point where it should be brought back to factory specs, and the valve cover gaskets will likely be hardened and starting to leak a little by then.
In the Amp clamp example, could you independently change the scaling of each channel? I do this on trends at work to make things easier to see (power plant DCS, so it's not an apples to apples question)
The cylinder heads need to come off to have the valves and valve seats repaired. Then the timing procedure needs to be done again after the head and valves are repaired. At least bank 1 needs to come off.
@@davemi00 yeah, the person more than likely bent a valve by not having the timing marks lined up properly when pulling the pin on the timing belt tensioner. What he is showing in the video of how he is diagnosed a dead cylinder. Which he stated cylinder 1 had no compression meaning the cylinder is not sealing at all.
@@SteelheadTed because as a business owner you can 1: make someone's day because it's Christmas and it feels good to help someone out 2: use this as an opportunity to give a lower paid, less experienced tech the chance to pull or tear down an engine so someone learns and you spend less overhead 3: win a customer and everyone he knows for life 4: worst case scenario your UA-cam revenue will help make up for any "serious" losses Idk just was a thought.
I had a no start in my bay that cranked and I thought for sure it had a compression issue by ear. Put a scope on it and the rc test showed uneven peaks relative to each other. In the end it ended up being a fuel pump issue and a starter. The starter was causing the erratic rc waveform and the failed fuel pump was causing the no start. Rc test only shows you starter motor amperage or drops as the motor is loaded on. That's all. It shouldn't be the only test. It doesn't mean you should sell the customer a head job or engine because it failed an rc test and you assumed it crashed a valve. That's why it's important to finish diagnosis even after an rc test or any current ramping test being performed. You may have a washed out cylinder, valve stuck open by carbon , valve adjusted too tight, customer may have dropped something down the intake, ect. It's a great tool, but shouldn't be the only tool in your box.
I’ve done timing-belt jobs on a 2008 Acura TL, 2011 Acura TL, 2012 Honda Accord V6, 2012 Acura TL, 2016 Acura RDX, and a 2002 Honda Accord V6 Coupe. The Honda J-series V6 is one of the most easiest engines to work on. And I’m a DIYer.
@@user-tb7rn1il3qMy Toyota Avalon and Lexus ES 330 would like to differ. My Lexus has over 400k miles. Timing belts are fine but just do it over 100m miles as maintenance.
I did my 12' TL (3.7L) and my 13" Crosstour (3.5L). Now have a 14' TL (another 3.7) I need to do in the spring. Not too hard to do, just pay attention to the marks. Rotate engine by hand a few times before attempting to start and make sure everything still aligned.
@@Chadman333 Exactly! Just pay attention and take your time and you’ll be fine. It’s actually easier to do the job on later model Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-series V6 since you don’t have to take a bunch of things off (power steering pump). Just make sure to also get a ½ inch impact wrench 🔧, and a weighted 19mm socket to remove the infamous crank-bolt.
@@Chadman333Also, if you’re having oil consumption issues with your 3.7L V6, try the Valvoline Restore & Protect synthetic oil. A friend of mine noticed after two oil changes that his 3.7L SH-AWD TL consumes half as much oil as before. He’ll keep using it to see if the oil could clear up the piston rings.
I’m a disabled veteran who’s fascinated by cars. I work on my friends cars for free. I buy cars with engine problems because I can buy them cheap. I sell them cheap and I do give some away to families in need. I’m very fascinated by the RCtest. I’d never seen or heard about one. The RCTest on a known engine problem seems like it would cut down the time by identifying the dead cylinder. Confirm it with a leak down test, to verify where the problem is on the exhaust side. My question is this. Are all scanners easy to hook into like you did? I have low vision and usually zoom to see text. I was wondering if it could be displayed on a large monitor. Any recommendations on scopes or are they all easy to use? Grunt trying to learn new techniques… Thanks for any input…❤️🇺🇸
The EScope is my favorite. That's what I use in most of our videos. It's PC based so you can connect as large of a monitor or TV as you'd like. Some scopes are easier than others. Stayed tuned for a video on us testing a very inexpensive scope. I have no idea how good or bad it is yet as I haven't used it.
@@theroyaltyautoservice that is awesome. My buddy helped me hook up my 70” TV to my LAPTOP. He just used a HDMI cable to connect my PC to the TV's HDMI input. I watch UA-cam Videos in my shop too. Super excited to learn more about the scopes. I had someone say they are old technology and outdated with OBDII and Bidirectional scanners, but I definitely see value there.
4 minutes in, i have been bitten by this. Do a RC test and think there is a dead hole, major mechanical failure, and then discover that there is a loose sparkplug or an injector thats not seated correctly causing a compression leak...always look further then the end of your nose...😂😂😂 thank you.
@@randybloomfield5090leaks are not always audible, for example on a rattly diesel engine or a vehicle that has an audible exhaust leak can make it difficult to pick up compression leaks.
@@randybloomfield5090 not always,some engines are noisy/clattery (diesels) or might have an exhaust leak. Also,my hearing is not what it used to be, so test to verify is good practice.
I've done two of these jobs. Fun time with the crank bolt but otherwise straight forward. Only one right way to get that belt lined up and many wrong ways.
Tip from a DIY'er that's been way over his head: With no spark plugs installed, there's no compression. The engine should spin over with very little resistance. If it binds somewhere, stop turning! If not, spin the crankshaft three times (one extra for good luck). Recheck your timing marks at the camshaft(s) and crankshaft pulley. If all good, then put in the plugs and start 'er up. Disclaimer: This comes from a guy that did valve lash on buddy's dad's Tracker and only set the Cyl 1 at TDC. Then did all the cylinders, lol! After a symphony of percussion (lifter) instruments, engine was ok after fixing the error.
since the trigger is synced on the combustion stroke and you are measuring the compression, shouldn't you stagger the firing order to determine the correct cylinder?
The fundamentals remain the same old school, set your timing marks even and lock your sprockets securely before removing the belt, after fitting the new belt make sure it’s the right specified tension, (this is also an opportunity to change the tensioner and water pump depending with the vehicle design)
Question. Did you retime the belt correctly before doing these tests? Isn't it possible that if the timing is off, you might get a cylinder that the valves might just be open enough to leak and cause low compression?
Hi from Australia. Loving your videos. Is the reason cylinder 1 is dead because the owner installed the timing belt incorrectly/out of time, and bent a valve ?
The rear cam slipping on the J35 engine is fairly common when the belt is off. You have about 10-15 degrees each direction that it will hold in place. Once it goes past that, the spring pressure will slam it as far as it can go, but the valve train will stop it, it cannot rotate all the way around. The remedy is simply to put a wrench on the cam bolt and rotate back into place where it holds in position. It does require some pressure/strength but with a gentle touch so that you don’t rotate too far and slam it in the other direction. Ask me how I know, lol. I tore the crap out of my knuckles getting it back into position on my Acura TL.
Thankyou very much for this video fellas. It's great and I have learnt a lot. I have a topdon phoenix Max and topdon scope. Could you please clarify the following... What wire on the plug did you stick the probe into and how was this selection determined? What setting did you have on the amp clamp switch itself? Are you using a 20-1 attentuater for any connection? The ground cable that is connected to the negative battery terminal, where does that go? I noticed when you ran the test with the amp clamp you still had the yellow channel inverted. Is this essential?
The sync was connected to the signal wire to the ignition coil. You can find the connector pin out in service information. The amp clamp was on 600 amps. The Escope does not need attenuators. One of the best things about it. You don't have to worry about damaging it when you connect to a vehicle. As long as the waveform is displaying how you like to see it it doesn't matter. If it's set to invert or not. Hope this helps.
A lot of Honda & Acura owners are simply too cheap to do a proper 105K service, which also including replacing the spark plugs and valve adjustment. They hear prices well over 2K and immediately say "F this" and prolong the service or try to source out the parts themselves to either attempt the service themselves or have a Indy shop do the repairs. Here's where they continue to make mistakes by buying the "OEM" timing belt kit from amazon or Ebay not realizing these are NOT OEM but counterfeit kits in Honda or Acura bags. They end up using these parts just to have a failure around 12,000 miles. Now just imagine such vehicles like the MDX-S or TLX-S where they have high performance low profile tires, brembo brakes, timing belt, air suspension ect... Your typical Honda / Acura owner will not be able to keep up with those hefty repairs when the time comes around for replacement. Most 105K services are almost usually skipped and the next person to purchase these vehicles are lied to being told "Timing belt was replaced"... surprise surprise later on down the road.
Changing a timing belt is pretty simple job. At least on Audi cars that i work. I've than plenty of this for friends and relatives mainly on 2.0 Tdi. Timing chains on 3.0 Tdi and 3.0 Tfsi even easier but the engine need to come out but still not that hard. I have downloaded Elsawin and just follow simple instructions.
excellent and easily understood problem. Owner's mistake is a TB on an interference engine which are most Hondas. Make this mistake on older toyotas and subarus and nothing bad happens.. I feel bad for the owner.
Leak down test is very effective to determine a bent valve. I don't condenn the guy who tried to do his own timing belt to save money. However, as a diy guy, you should know your limitations. When doing a timing belt it is important to know the timing marks and tie up the camshaft and crankshaft and mark the timing marks before removing the old belt. These are interference engines and they require a precise, accurate timing belt installation.. I'm a mechanic myself of 7 years of experience.
I slice the old belt right down the middle all the way around. Then fit the new belt by sliding it on where the half belt was cut out, then cut the rest off the old belt, and push the new one until it seats.
Should you check/correct the mechanical timing prior to doing the relative compression? Granted he may have bent a valve (or more), but is it possible being a tooth or two off would affect the compression without any physical damage?
When you set up the trigger to the coil pack you’re probing command from the pcm right? Do you need to use that little amplifier box before plugging it into the scope so you don’t blow up your scope, or is that something different im thinking of?
That is the command from the PCM, correct. The EScope does not need attenuators. It's one of its best features. No attenuator is ever needed for any automotive signal. But the command on this particular vehicle is only a 5v signal so you would be ok with no attenuator on your scope.
This is a great video, now what, borescope all cylinders to check for damage (if non) take cylinder head of with bent valve and repair it (valve and valve guide). Engine only has 100K on it.
Time. Obviously the more complex engine setups take a lot longer to get to all the spark plugs. This simple test lets you see all cylinders relative to each other very quickly.
Sherwood I have an idea for a video, a lot of customers have no idea about how much we spend on tools, I recently downsized because I am 64 years old going to take my retirement next year but still do some jobs, I get the feeling most people think we have 500 bucks invest ed in tools, try 500,000 in my small shop, yes bigger stuff like lifts and tire balancers will last years, electrical tools have a short life but you can not repair modern cars without them I am getting ready to spend a few thousand updating some things, that will be paid for by labor charges, I get the feeling people think I am charging too much when I am only breaking even at my shop, I just want to keep it for my own projects
Very nice work, for sure lots thanking you; Sometimes that can be done just over the phone and even give the customer an estimate, with lower and higher limits, all in 5 minutes, over the phone and with the car still at the customer's house ,if the customer is half handy with cars and is able to pull the fuel pump fuse or relay; The mechanic can just then listen to the customer cranking the car, and if he hears the **musik* ===pa pa pa pa pa pi === pa pa pa pa pa pi=== he knows there is a bad cylinder, he then just asks the customer if ALL spark plugs are in place , and if they are , you can give him the... BAD news !!! cyl head needs to come off, bent valve(s), possibly bent rod...
In fact i haven't purchased a Honda V6 after 2001. I bought a brand new 01 EXL V6Taffeta White. I traded it at less than 75k miles 5 years brcause the paint faded. It was a bad year for white.
My brother(an ASE master mechanic) replaced mine and it wasn’t easy on my 2014 Honda odyssey. Easy to make a small mistake and screw things up. He told me he wouldn’t do it again.
Know what you're capable of doing. Exceeding your limits causes that familiar uh oh sound. That 😅 we make time to time before all the feeling flushes from our faces as we go in to the house to tell the Mrs. Now that sound coming from her is a little different sounding. That's the one sound you try to avoid. 😊
I mark the crank, the cams, and the belt before taking the old belt off. Then I transfer the marks to the new belt and then put it on. I was made fun of for doing that and called an idiot, but it worked out great for me. Seeing this validates my methods. I also turned the crank manually several times before starting it just to make sure nothing was hitting the valves.
I did the same a few months ago when doing mine , glad I marked the old belt and transfered it over because it was a tooth out until I used more force to get it on to the cam pulley. Saved me alot of heart ache.
I do the exact same thing. I even count the teeth. But I know when I put the belt on and the marks match up on the pulleys. I can start it up without even turning the crank. Confidence.
No need to mark them. The pulleys all have timing notches engraved.... Just line them up...
@JasonKing-m6m For some of us, me included, it's easier/inspires confidence/is a redundant quality check point if we're looking at big, neon bright, obvious paint marks we made ourselves rather than squinting at faint lines engraved in metal.
The factory marks work of course, but I like to eliminate thinking when I can because thinking means I can make a mistake.
Mark the belt and gears, transfer marks to the new belt - no thinking required, just a little care.
@@JasonKing-m6m I agree, however if the you install the belt with just the smallest amount of slack, you could be a tooth off. I;m sure a pro would have no problem with this, but as a diyer, I don't want to take that chance.
Great video. I've been doing DIY car work for 60 years and can still learn loads, especially with today's computers on wheels.
At least the guy was honest and owned up to it, rather than the old: "My brother-in-law said that he could fix it, so to make my wife happy, I let him try". 😂
Or "I don't know what happened, it was driving fine" 😂
@@alexshackleford1065 Or "A grateful homeless man offered to do my timing belt".....
The most important part of being a DIYer is knowing when you're in over your head and stopping before you make things worse.
We can’t all win the jackpot and an E scan 😄😉
Agee
Getting in over your head does make you learn fast. I did a timing belt on my old Frontier, got in over my head, started getting that panic feeling. I took a break, came back, worked through methodically and figured it out. It sucked but I learned more in that project than just about anything else I’ve done.
Yeah, great advice. I fear in some people's cases, they might only have enough money to do the repair themselves. Not sure if that applies in this situation.
That... and buy OEM parts from a dealer (not ebay or amazon)!
That is amazing. I haven't seen a scope used in 20 years, most dealerships I have worked for didn't have one!😮thank you for sharing this video, great information!
That's incredible. 20 years in independent garages, and used a scope in all of them. So many uses... I guess when you have a room of parts on hand you just load up the canon and pray lol
ive worked at plenty of shops and was the only one using them, the other technicians has always been high school drop outs, low level junk yard parts changers
That was great how you focused in on this one procedure. And respect for not shaming the DIY'er for making a mistake, like I've seen other channels do.
Customer was honest, which makes diagnosing the car for you 1000% easier.
Yep !
literally didnt matter at all whether the customer said anything or not
@@johnnysprocketz He said it was very helpful. I’’l go w that.
Yes, some people are ashamed of owning up
@@theyjustwantyourmoney4539 mostly the other mechanics in the shop not the customers in my experience
Being a former honda tech. Always did the amp clamp. Honda's are notorious for burnt valves and people not doing timing belts properly or over rev conditions from the customer owning a teenager. Hey man. congrats on the youtube channel growing. I don't say it often cause in fussy. there's alot of fake sponsored channels out there who preach instead of teach! keep up the good work.
Agreed. Royalty auto channel is the real deal.
lance mechanics is legit
theyve grown off the back of bernie thompson's accomplishments
I can slap a timing belt on a dohc engine in 2 min without even messing with a tensioner
Mistakes are an integral part of learning. Obviously try and not make costly one i.e. do your research before hand. This video is extremely informative. Time is money in the automotive business. This technique is quick to at least point in the direction quickly!
The explanation of the scope usage was amazing. You are really a good teacher, you explain things so a normal guy like me can understand it. I hope to see some more scope stuff in the future.
I did the timing belt kit myself on my Odyssey. This outcome was my worst fear so I followed the factory service manual instructions to the letter and triple checked alignment before daring to start it.
I've done it as well. I just followed the service manual. There was no mystery to it if you can read and take your time. I think there's people out there who tackle these jobs without a service manual.
you need a service manual or cd for your specific model and manufacturer and year (ie say 2003 honda accord). helps a lot so youre sure the belt is properly aligned
It also really useful to mark all the pulleys and old belt carefully and compare against the new belt going on i.e. pre-mark the new belt in the exact same place. Occasionally you will find that some belts do vary between model years i.e. one might be slightly longer and this is a good way of double checking. A Peugeot 306 tried that one on me so just as well I checked...
@@iboswelldon't they make clamps to lock the cams?
Same here, did my very first timing belt / water pump on my wife's 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid last summer. It was both exciting and terrifying but in the end was not the huge deal I made it out to be in my own mind. I also have a Honda Odyssey and plan to do the timing belt on that one too.
I never thought about the correlation between voltage drop/current increase by the Starter when the Piston travels up under compression as a way to find a low compression cylinder. That was indeed interesting. Thanks for the great explanation. I have several Oscilloscopes I use for nonautomotive work, I might see if I can set one up the way you described it. Again thanks for showing us this technique to find which which cylinder has low compression.
Also, us amateur DIYer's got to discern what we can do and what we can't do. If I can find a shop with someone like you with your diagnostic skills, life would be gooder.
really great video reminded me to start using my scope for more than a dust collector. I have struggled with the scope trying to always get the settings correct i really see now that using it regular will become normal not fear thanks so much. really wish there was some schools in southeast i'm 68 but still want to keep moving and understanding your channel has become the go to channel thanks again
I have an old scope that only works on distributor ignition engines. You can see the low compression.
I was thinking of starting a club that meets up somewhere like a garage workshop to help each other learn
Our small independent shop uses those Aisin timing belt kits. They’re made in Japan but assembled for sale in the US. Great video on the approach and diagnosis. From Southern AZ, Happy New Year to you and your shop.
I have never done a relative test, only a compression or leak down, but certainly makes sense on a transverse V engine. Seems very simple and saves a lot of time.
Great. Video love the channel, I am an engineer not a mechanic but I enjoy learning more about the subject. Designing electrical systems we now use more and more electronics even though primarily working with high voltage.❤
Great usage of the scope great testing, thanks guys for sharing. Have a great Christmas and Happy New Year.
Eric O ( south main auto ) has a great vid on this process. This is an excellent video as well.
Ive never done this before, but im starting to learn how to use amperage to diagnose different components. Alot more learning to go for training to master current flow measurements. But this video is a good one.
Exceptional use of tools to explain the audible symptoms.
Your engine noise making at 2:25 is almost as good as Wally the gas station owner on The Andy Griffith Show when he diagnosed Mr. Tucker's Lincoln's bad fuel pump from the front porch on Sunday afternoon. That Wally was a legend. He had a boat that would do 60 and Gomer said that's fast on water. I bet if he was around today he would be crazy incredible with a scope and an amp clamp. 🤣🤣
I learn so much from each video can't thank you enough 🙏🙌
Thanks, glad you’re learning!
Love the content man so exited for the new setup, I have learned so much from your videos. much love from Alabama
Great video explanation for something I have never done.
Easy straight forward way to use your tools to get an accurate diagnosis, quickly,
the reason I am here.
We DIY;d a Honda J32 engine a couple of times, but followed the belt marking route, as noted above. No issues, double checking and hand cranking to make sure.
I always found timing belts to be simple. Not always easy, but straightforward. I just haven't owned or worked on a timing belt car recently.
Do you drive rotary engine cars ?
Having done a honda v6 timing belt as a diy'er, there is a trick to make sure the belt it in the correct position before pulling the tensioner pin. Before you pull off the old belt, use a paint marker to put wittness marke on the cam zero marks and a mark that you mark on the crank. I always mark the points on the belt the same way, either point or tooth. Pull your old belt and transfer these marks to your new belt. Install the new belt, lining up the marks with your cam and crank marks. Once the belt is installed, hand crank the engine 2 revs and the thr marks should line back up.
An OEM belt already has marks on it that line up with marks on cams.
@SteelheadTed I bought the Aisen kit from rock auto. It comes with a Mitsubishi belt which I believe is OEM, but no marks.
I did this on my two honda timing belt replacements. It makes it so easy. It's easy to not pull the belt tight enough and be one tooth off. The marks you make (different from the cam and crank TDC marks) make it easy to see if you're off a tooth.
@ when you buy direct from Honda you get a belt with marks. Rock Auto doesn’t sell OEM timing belt kits.
@@scottelder3141Mitsuboshi*
I did the same thing ..lucky or me it was on a 4 cylinder.
I had done several timing belts prior over the years but due to complacency in my part and not triple checking I was off a tooth and that’s all it took.
I removed the cylinder head and had a trusted machine shop examine the issue. Some minor contact with two valves needed to be replaced.
I’ve done multiple engines since and other work hence.
Now, I check & recheck and usually employ a physical method to eliminate any cam / crank rotation once the marks are set.
However , with this said I still check it again and turn it manually several rotations as well.
Consequently..I do my homework and make sure I know as much as I can about possible issues prior.
I learned a lot from that one mistake and it makes me extremely diligent when I am working on something new or different for the first time..
We learn and move on..
I Love backyard Bob 😂 I need a new ATV yo 😂 please keep doing your own repairs 🎉
Awesome video as always Sherwood. When seeing the waveform upside down rather than either getting out of the car to flip the Amp clamp or hit the invert button and recapture I find it easier to go into the process menu and enter -1 and multiply for the appropriate channel. Instant flip of the waveform. Escope has some amazing features.
Great video! Apparently some folks have bent a valve/valves JUST from the springing action of the bank one camshaft. I've had the cam spring off the mark before, but thankfully I've never had bent valves. Happy New Year!
That's what happened more than likely. If he had timing far off for piston to interfere with valve, it would have not only just happened on 1 cylinder...
When I did my valve stem seals on my BMW E91 N46 motor, after following a UA-cam-video DIY, I was VERY nervous starting it the first time, To my surprise it worked, and still does. I did turn the motor over by hand a few times to make sure it went smooth before starting it though - Not a job I would enjoy doing again, Thanks for the video!
At least he tried and didn't blame "the other shop"
"the other shops" need no help in sullying their reputations
I agree with you, you need to get used to working with the scope, it saves time. Thanks for sharing.💙
Hey merry Christmas to you and yours
On my diesel rabbit pickup... step one is to first setup everything in time... (to get the timing marks and cam lobes in their proper position) then take the belt off.
Then after the new belt is on... turn the engine over by hand to make sure the valves aren't hitting the top of the piston.
We can have the valve clearance and still have the injector pump be 180 degrees off time if we turn it or change it out.
The reason we get all of the timing marks and valve ears lined up is its just best practices and we know where we are by looking at the timing marks and position of the lifter ear lobes. The lifter ear lobes can be in the up position and the pump timing can still be out of phase on a new head. So the cam would need to be rotated until the ears come back up again if it won't start.
The diesel pump timing is set with a dial gauge screwed into the back of the Bosch injector pump.
I've been bitten by the getting in over my head stuff, too had a BMW 330xi that would randomly run rough. Went to some forums, watched a bunch of UA-cam videos, and became convinced that it was a VANOS issue. (A variable valve timing system that would allow the engine to dynamically change the timing of the intake or exhaust valves based on RPM). After dicking with the fuel injectors, coils, etc., I decided to jump in and disassemble the entire top end and replace the entire VANOS system. Didn't help much. One of my neighbors, who used to work at AutoZone lol, tell me that I should check the oxygen sensors. Nah. I would have gotten a code for that. I had a BMW scan tool, and a laptop with a factory program that would allow me to check and change all manner of things. I had just decided that I had driven her too hard for too long, and I'd have to live with an intermittently rough running engine. Well, I gave the car to my niece when she went to college, and the next summer, she said that it was getting worse. So I decided: "What the hell... O2 sensors are cheap, might as well change 'em. Wouldn't you know, that car ran smoother than it had in many years, and she drove it about 30,000 more miles before she sold it.😂
Code reader 'techs' are the worst. Years ago I had numerous 4.9 Cadillacs brought to me because of unstable idle. I saw all kind of things done...replaced ISC motors, fuel regulators and pumps, etc, etc. Almost every time it was the TPS. The TPS on those cars would get 'scratchy', but would not set a code. If there is no code, it's good...right? Codes can point you in the right direction but are NOT the be all and end all.
I did the timing belt on my 89 Honda and it came out perfect. Take your time. Do it right.
Very beneficial lesson !
Thanks 🙏🏼
Experience master mui buen diagnosis y espricasion mi respect para ustes master felis ańos nuevo ke se pase bien con su family
Great video! I can’t wait to try this on the next misfire car I get.
Cool. You could also use a US quarter on top of COP with a lead touching it to record when it fires. It's an alternative to back probing connector. Also, you can put a plus sign on the side of the amp clamp which faces battery plus terminal to make setup faster.
the clamp probably has an arrow or positive marking on it already
That stinks... poor owner was trying to save himself some money and take some pride in an accomplishment and ended up costing him probably triple as much. At Christmas time no less. I give him kudos for trying. If he's reading this: next time take the spark plugs out and turn the engine by hand a couple of revolutions if you're uncertain. You'll feel piston/valve contact without doing damage if it is off.
Not necessarily true. Free spinning is not the same throw as engine running
yeah it sucks cant believe they did this. any manual says turn it over by hand that i know of.
Triple as much if he's lucky. 😢
Triple? That's very optimistic, I'd say.
He could've just skipped the job and kept on driving for another 50K miles.
Fantastic explanation. Thanks!
I'm glad he tried to do the job himself and he admitted that he made a mistake. However, he should have tried doing the timing job on a same exact van in the junkyard first or tried to perform a timing job on a non interference engine first. I learned how to do a timing belt on a 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 engine which is a non interference engine. My first timing chain I did was on a junkyard car.
This is another great video. Thank you very much for sharing.
Honda service manuals are incredibly awesome. If you're doing Honda work as a DIYer, just buy one. They're not expensive and unbelievably helpful. I've done Honda SOHC and DOHC 4 cylinders and it was straight forward. I did do things double safe, lining up the old belt and marking exactly where the timing marks are. Then I put white marks on the new belt to match. This tells me after everything is finished and the belt tensioned that nothing has moved. Compared to Audi or Porsche, it's so much easier and straight forward.
35 yr auto tech here, !0 yrs ago got I got a Pilot in my bay, came from a used car lot and work was done under warranty. My invoice said " Valve adjustment and Timing belt Water pump, I go out to get the car It's running on 3 cylinders on sounds like there is no oil in it. So I pull the covers and TDC the engine, the firewall side cam was a 9 oclock, right where it lands if the cam springs without the belt on, so I reset the cam and finish that part. Pull the valve covers for the valve adjustment, long story short all the valves were at 30 thousands, spec is 9 in 11 exhaust. I think the previous guy confused MM with inches. Re did everything car ran fine
"No, darling, we don't need to call an electrician - I'll do it myself..." Famous last words
You should do a leak down test, see if leaking from intake, or exhaust valve, piston most likely kissed the valves. Maybe can get by with just sending out the head. But you need to know for sure if its a valve, and boar scope the top of pistons
no you dont
I thought about doing belt on my 2003 V6 Accord but decided against it. Lining up the timing didn't scare me but I just didn't want to remove everything to get to it and reassemble. It's tight quarters in there and I already work 70 hours a week as it is at my regular job! I paid $900 to a shop.
If you guys repair the van, I'd like to see a follow-up video showing the issue with am explanation as to how you think he got the timing wrong.
Very good!, also remember on Honda Acura J35 motors , valve lash adjustments are needed every 30 k , they are sensitve and many times they are tight to zero lash because no one has done the service.
Absolutely correct. I just did my valve lash adjustments on my ‘04 Pilot (200K miles), along with sparks plugs, spark plug tube seals, pcv valve, valve cover seals, and spark plug boot seals. Obviously the exhaust valves were tighter than the intakes. A GOOD manual is imperative.
I see this as well. Customer complains of misfires and previous shop throws plugs and coils at it but the misfires continue. I perform a valve adjustment (the valves are almost always too tight) and the vehicle is running fine again. I don’t know why this isn’t more well known.
Every 30k??? Honda disagrees. Honda recommends inspecting valve clearance every 105k miles. The exhaust get tighter, the intakes get a little looser, but most people at 105k are still fine. I'd say 150k is really the point where it should be brought back to factory specs, and the valve cover gaskets will likely be hardened and starting to leak a little by then.
In the Amp clamp example, could you independently change the scaling of each channel? I do this on trends at work to make things easier to see (power plant DCS, so it's not an apples to apples question)
So, how does this Fix the improper Timing Belt job ?
Great Scope lesson.
The cylinder heads need to come off to have the valves and valve seats repaired. Then the timing procedure needs to be done again after the head and valves are repaired. At least bank 1 needs to come off.
@@Fuzzylumpkins02 Thanks, so doing the incorrect Timing Belt job, did damage! Ouch.
@@davemi00 yeah, the person more than likely bent a valve by not having the timing marks lined up properly when pulling the pin on the timing belt tensioner. What he is showing in the video of how he is diagnosed a dead cylinder. Which he stated cylinder 1 had no compression meaning the cylinder is not sealing at all.
@ thanks
Excellent - Thank You
Electricity is amazing. The applications are virtually limitless.
No kidding! Still amazed that electrical signals can be monitored on a saw blade to prevent table saw accidents.
Give this customer a nice discount, when you are a career technician you appreciate honesty out of the gate rather than you having to play games
Huh? Why would a shop discount for a mistake someone else made?
I think a normal rate quote and pleasant "don't worry, we got this" is more than enough.
This is the price you pay for you boo-boo full price/ they can tell shop men your are getting a lower stop rate for this
@@SteelheadTed because as a business owner you can 1: make someone's day because it's Christmas and it feels good to help someone out 2: use this as an opportunity to give a lower paid, less experienced tech the chance to pull or tear down an engine so someone learns and you spend less overhead
3: win a customer and everyone he knows for life
4: worst case scenario your UA-cam revenue will help make up for any "serious" losses
Idk just was a thought.
At least maybe discount the "customer worked on it their self" fee.
Some great education here
I had a no start in my bay that cranked and I thought for sure it had a compression issue by ear. Put a scope on it and the rc test showed uneven peaks relative to each other. In the end it ended up being a fuel pump issue and a starter. The starter was causing the erratic rc waveform and the failed fuel pump was causing the no start.
Rc test only shows you starter motor amperage or drops as the motor is loaded on. That's all. It shouldn't be the only test. It doesn't mean you should sell the customer a head job or engine because it failed an rc test and you assumed it crashed a valve. That's why it's important to finish diagnosis even after an rc test or any current ramping test being performed. You may have a washed out cylinder, valve stuck open by carbon , valve adjusted too tight, customer may have dropped something down the intake, ect. It's a great tool, but shouldn't be the only tool in your box.
I'm curious, were the low peaks consistently on the same cylinders? That's a crazy one. Multiple problems can be difficult for sure.
I’ve done timing-belt jobs on a 2008 Acura TL, 2011 Acura TL, 2012 Honda Accord V6, 2012 Acura TL, 2016 Acura RDX, and a 2002 Honda Accord V6 Coupe. The Honda J-series V6 is one of the most easiest engines to work on. And I’m a DIYer.
@@user-tb7rn1il3qMy Toyota Avalon and Lexus ES 330 would like to differ. My Lexus has over 400k miles. Timing belts are fine but just do it over 100m miles as maintenance.
I did my 12' TL (3.7L) and my 13" Crosstour (3.5L). Now have a 14' TL (another 3.7) I need to do in the spring. Not too hard to do, just pay attention to the marks. Rotate engine by hand a few times before attempting to start and make sure everything still aligned.
@@Chadman333 Exactly! Just pay attention and take your time and you’ll be fine. It’s actually easier to do the job on later model Honda/Acura vehicles with the J-series V6 since you don’t have to take a bunch of things off (power steering pump). Just make sure to also get a ½ inch impact wrench 🔧, and a weighted 19mm socket to remove the infamous crank-bolt.
@@Chadman333Also, if you’re having oil consumption issues with your 3.7L V6, try the Valvoline Restore & Protect synthetic oil. A friend of mine noticed after two oil changes that his 3.7L SH-AWD TL consumes half as much oil as before. He’ll keep using it to see if the oil could clear up the piston rings.
@MrSamPhoenix Thanks for the tip. Yes it does burn some oil, I add 1qt after 1.5k - 2k miles. 100k on the engine. I have been monitoring it.
did you time the engine before you did the relative compression check? and was it out of time that bent the valve?
It was in time. When the client picked up the vehicle he told me he let the cam gear slip while the belt was off. That's when the valve bent..
Excellent way to find a dead cylinder. I still like to see it with a bore scope.
I’m a disabled veteran who’s fascinated by cars. I work on my friends cars for free. I buy cars with engine problems because I can buy them cheap. I sell them cheap and I do give some away to families in need. I’m very fascinated by the RCtest. I’d never seen or heard about one. The RCTest on a known engine problem seems like it would cut down the time by identifying the dead cylinder. Confirm it with a leak down test, to verify where the problem is on the exhaust side. My question is this. Are all scanners easy to hook into like you did? I have low vision and usually zoom to see text. I was wondering if it could be displayed on a large monitor. Any recommendations on scopes or are they all easy to use? Grunt trying to learn new techniques… Thanks for any input…❤️🇺🇸
The EScope is my favorite. That's what I use in most of our videos. It's PC based so you can connect as large of a monitor or TV as you'd like. Some scopes are easier than others. Stayed tuned for a video on us testing a very inexpensive scope. I have no idea how good or bad it is yet as I haven't used it.
@@theroyaltyautoservice that is awesome. My buddy helped me hook up my 70” TV to my LAPTOP. He just used a HDMI cable to connect my PC to the TV's HDMI input. I watch UA-cam Videos in my shop too. Super excited to learn more about the scopes. I had someone say they are old technology and outdated with OBDII and Bidirectional scanners, but I definitely see value there.
will you show the repair? I would like to see the damage piston, valve ,etc.
4 minutes in, i have been bitten by this. Do a RC test and think there is a dead hole, major mechanical failure, and then discover that there is a loose sparkplug or an injector thats not seated correctly causing a compression leak...always look further then the end of your nose...😂😂😂 thank you.
You can hear those leaks so not quite sure what you mean?
@@randybloomfield5090leaks are not always audible, for example on a rattly diesel engine or a vehicle that has an audible exhaust leak can make it difficult to pick up compression leaks.
Why not check for a loose spark plug at cylinder 1 before determining engine mechanical fault? Thank you for this video btw
@@randybloomfield5090 not always,some engines are noisy/clattery (diesels) or might have an exhaust leak. Also,my hearing is not what it used to be, so test to verify is good practice.
@@juancabral342 yeah, heard ya the first time. I'm saying if you know what you're doing, you can hear the pressurized air escaping
Im a DIY guy that just did timing on my LS430. I put off starting it for a week trying to start it I was so nervous.
I've done two of these jobs. Fun time with the crank bolt but otherwise straight forward. Only one right way to get that belt lined up and many wrong ways.
Tip from a DIY'er that's been way over his head: With no spark plugs installed, there's no compression. The engine should spin over with very little resistance. If it binds somewhere, stop turning! If not, spin the crankshaft three times (one extra for good luck). Recheck your timing marks at the camshaft(s) and crankshaft pulley. If all good, then put in the plugs and start 'er up. Disclaimer: This comes from a guy that did valve lash on buddy's dad's Tracker and only set the Cyl 1 at TDC. Then did all the cylinders, lol! After a symphony of percussion (lifter) instruments, engine was ok after fixing the error.
Our shop has been seeing this alot lately as well lol. Lots of youtube mechanics out there now that mess up the simplest jobs like this.
since the trigger is synced on the combustion stroke and you are measuring the compression, shouldn't you stagger the firing order to determine the correct cylinder?
awesome video man learned something today
The fundamentals remain the same old school, set your timing marks even and lock your sprockets securely before removing the belt, after fitting the new belt make sure it’s the right specified tension, (this is also an opportunity to change the tensioner and water pump depending with the vehicle design)
Question. Did you retime the belt correctly before doing these tests? Isn't it possible that if the timing is off, you might get a cylinder that the valves might just be open enough to leak and cause low compression?
Hi from Australia. Loving your videos.
Is the reason cylinder 1 is dead because the owner installed the timing belt incorrectly/out of time, and bent a valve ?
😮
I talked to him and he said when he had the belt off the cam gear slipped and turned. That's when it happened..
The rear cam slipping on the J35 engine is fairly common when the belt is off.
You have about 10-15 degrees each direction that it will hold in place.
Once it goes past that, the spring pressure will slam it as far as it can go, but the valve train will stop it, it cannot rotate all the way around.
The remedy is simply to put a wrench on the cam bolt and rotate back into place where it holds in position.
It does require some pressure/strength but with a gentle touch so that you don’t rotate too far and slam it in the other direction.
Ask me how I know, lol. I tore the crap out of my knuckles getting it back into position on my Acura TL.
Does this work on sequential spark only? would assume on a waste spark car it would show double triggers
Thankyou very much for this video fellas. It's great and I have learnt a lot. I have a topdon phoenix Max and topdon scope. Could you please clarify the following...
What wire on the plug did you stick the probe into and how was this selection determined?
What setting did you have on the amp clamp switch itself?
Are you using a 20-1 attentuater for any connection?
The ground cable that is connected to the negative battery terminal, where does that go?
I noticed when you ran the test with the amp clamp you still had the yellow channel inverted. Is this essential?
The sync was connected to the signal wire to the ignition coil. You can find the connector pin out in service information.
The amp clamp was on 600 amps.
The Escope does not need attenuators. One of the best things about it. You don't have to worry about damaging it when you connect to a vehicle.
As long as the waveform is displaying how you like to see it it doesn't matter. If it's set to invert or not.
Hope this helps.
@@theroyaltyautoservice Thanks for the quick reply and information. Once again really enjoy your videos
A lot of Honda & Acura owners are simply too cheap to do a proper 105K service, which also including replacing the spark plugs and valve adjustment. They hear prices well over 2K and immediately say "F this" and prolong the service or try to source out the parts themselves to either attempt the service themselves or have a Indy shop do the repairs. Here's where they continue to make mistakes by buying the "OEM" timing belt kit from amazon or Ebay not realizing these are NOT OEM but counterfeit kits in Honda or Acura bags. They end up using these parts just to have a failure around 12,000 miles. Now just imagine such vehicles like the MDX-S or TLX-S where they have high performance low profile tires, brembo brakes, timing belt, air suspension ect... Your typical Honda / Acura owner will not be able to keep up with those hefty repairs when the time comes around for replacement. Most 105K services are almost usually skipped and the next person to purchase these vehicles are lied to being told "Timing belt was replaced"... surprise surprise later on down the road.
Changing a timing belt is pretty simple job. At least on Audi cars that i work. I've than plenty of this for friends and relatives mainly on 2.0 Tdi. Timing chains on 3.0 Tdi and 3.0 Tfsi even easier but the engine need to come out but still not that hard. I have downloaded Elsawin and just follow simple instructions.
Hahahahajaha......lot to learn young grasshopper...😂😂😂😂
Hey the worse that can happen is you need a new motor. Don’t take it to Dave’s Auto. The bill will be $47,000 for a new motor
Plus Dave will lecture you for not using his secret sauce.
@@gulfrasta5844 if he had one of Dave’s $147 flashlights he would have seen his timing marks were off.
Yeah the average bill 20-30000$ no wonder the techs love it there they making bank i hear
Nice learn here
excellent and easily understood problem. Owner's mistake is a TB on an interference engine which are most Hondas. Make this mistake on older toyotas and subarus and nothing bad happens.. I feel bad for the owner.
To disable injectors from pulsing and ignition you can just unplug the crank position sensor
How did he get the harmonic balancer bolt loose? Those are on backbreaking tight.
I don't use it enough. I have a tiepie scope, it's hard to understand and setup. Going to have a play now though
thank you
Leak down test is very effective to determine a bent valve. I don't condenn the guy who tried to do his own timing belt to save money. However, as a diy guy, you should know your limitations. When doing a timing belt it is important to know the timing marks and tie up the camshaft and crankshaft and mark the timing marks before removing the old belt. These are interference engines and they require a precise, accurate timing belt installation.. I'm a mechanic myself of 7 years of experience.
I slice the old belt right down the middle all the way around. Then fit the new belt by sliding it on where the half belt was cut out, then cut the rest off the old belt, and push the new one until it seats.
I've been a machinist and tool and die maker for 50 years and you would NEVER catch me changing my own timing belt!!
Should you check/correct the mechanical timing prior to doing the relative compression?
Granted he may have bent a valve (or more), but is it possible being a tooth or two off would affect the compression without any physical damage?
the answer is yes being off one tooth would effect the compression --- but not on just one cylinder, it would effect them all.
If I thought the timing was off and the vehicle just ran bad then I would do an in cylinder pressure transducer test. This would show me the timing.
Not using an amp clamp I though meter/scope would have to be set to ac coupled to get an accurate reading. Is this not true?
Cool show !
When you set up the trigger to the coil pack you’re probing command from the pcm right? Do you need to use that little amplifier box before plugging it into the scope so you don’t blow up your scope, or is that something different im thinking of?
Attenuator you mean
@ correct that is what I mean. So do you need to use that when plugging into the control side of the coil?
I would also like to know if you need to use a 20-1 attentuater
That is the command from the PCM, correct. The EScope does not need attenuators. It's one of its best features. No attenuator is ever needed for any automotive signal. But the command on this particular vehicle is only a 5v signal so you would be ok with no attenuator on your scope.
@@theroyaltyautoservice thanks for clarification, could you please give an example of when you would use a 20:1 attenuater?
Please consider making more videos for TOPDON PHOENIX MAX OSCILLOSCOPE. Thanks
Yes I'd like to see this done on a topdon phoenix Max please.
Will do!
This is a great video, now what, borescope all cylinders to check for damage (if non) take cylinder head of with bent valve and repair it (valve and valve guide). Engine only has 100K on it.
He took the vehicle and is going to remove the heads and have a valve job done.
As a diyer, I am curious: What is the advantage of using the scope over "compression tester" on each individual cylinder?
Time. Obviously the more complex engine setups take a lot longer to get to all the spark plugs. This simple test lets you see all cylinders relative to each other very quickly.
Speed and efficiency...time is $$$...
Sherwood I have an idea for a video, a lot of customers have no idea about how much we spend on tools, I recently downsized because I am 64 years old going to take my retirement next year but still do some jobs, I get the feeling most people think we have 500 bucks invest ed in tools, try 500,000 in my small shop, yes bigger stuff like lifts and tire balancers will last years, electrical tools have a short life but you can not repair modern cars without them I am getting ready to spend a few thousand updating some things, that will be paid for by labor charges, I get the feeling people think I am charging too much when I am only breaking even at my shop, I just want to keep it for my own projects
Very nice work, for sure lots thanking you;
Sometimes that can be done just over the phone and even give the customer an estimate, with lower and higher limits, all in 5 minutes, over the phone and with the car still at the customer's house ,if the customer is half handy with cars and is able to pull the fuel pump fuse or relay;
The mechanic can just then listen to the customer cranking the car, and if he hears the **musik* ===pa pa pa pa pa pi === pa pa pa pa pa pi=== he knows there is a bad cylinder, he then just asks the customer if ALL spark plugs are in place , and if they are , you can give him the... BAD news !!! cyl head needs to come off, bent valve(s), possibly bent rod...
In fact i haven't purchased a Honda V6 after 2001. I bought a brand new 01 EXL V6Taffeta White.
I traded it at less than 75k miles 5 years brcause the paint faded. It was a bad year for white.
My brother(an ASE master mechanic) replaced mine and it wasn’t easy on my 2014 Honda odyssey. Easy to make a small mistake and screw things up. He told me he wouldn’t do it again.
I'm just curious, was there a specific alignment mark that was hard to read?
@ the crank bolt was almost impossible to get off even though I had the special socket for it.
@@markthees5650 big honkin' impact gun, and the thick walled socket, comes right off.
Know what you're capable of doing. Exceeding your limits causes that familiar uh oh sound. That 😅 we make time to time before all the feeling flushes from our faces as we go in to the house to tell the Mrs. Now that sound coming from her is a little different sounding. That's the one sound you try to avoid. 😊