Loving the video Raul, you may find a UA-cam channel called project Amber of some help. He converted an old ambulance and is also helping his girlfriend convert her sprinter now. Keep it up 👍
Hey dude, good luck with the restoration 👍 A few tips for you: -Get the vehicle underbody steam cleaned or powerwashed - It will be much easier to identifiy corrorosion and the underseal will adhere much better to clean surfaces. Undersealing is a waste of time if you skip this step IMO. -After wire brushing check the surface for dimples/spots of rust, they can be hard to spot (and sometimes look like good steel). If you find them use a centre punch or flat blade screwdriver with a hammer and chip at them, otherwise the rust comes back and breaks through the new paint. -Don't neglect the oil changes especially on a Sprinter as they have a timing chain. -Hose out all the box sections and cavities, they hold a lot of shit that causes corrosion. -Use cavity wax in the sills and box sections. I reccomend bilt hamber dynax s50, waxoil is shit. -If you see any factory underseal that has bubbled, wire brush it off, paint then underseal. I've restored a few vehicles now including a very rusty iveco daily and trust me do it right the first time and it'll last 👍
Thanks for this great tips. When you say the box section, do you mean the section where the water leaks in from the outside trims? I have vacuumed the area and looks ok for now, just a bit of dirt but i want to give it a test when raining to see if i have done the sealing correctly. Cheers 👍
Every single vehicle after a certain time spent in UK gets some kind of rust due to the fact of wet climate. If you got some spare room inside you might cut the front cockpit with steering wheel and all that and make a PC Van Simulator 😁 Take care mate 👍🏆
Stick with it Raul, all the prep work you are doing now will pay dividends in the future, I converted a 7.5 tonne into a camper and ended up making my own ramps to access underneath with ease. Good luck 👍
I had a similar problem with finding a garage where I live, that I can rent for an hour or two, to do some work under my car. There is basicly none, at least not in this part of Norway. So I went to Biltema, a shop with carparts, accessories to cars and a lot of other things for your house and garden. Maby something like the eurocarparts shop over there. Anyway. I bought a pair of ramps so that I can drive my car up on them. One axel at the time. It gets the car some 30 centimeters higher up so that I can lay down under it and do some work. I think that they cost me the equivalent of 50 pounds. I think that you are making good progress. It sucks to work outside in the cold. But when you think of the satisfaction when you are done with the tasks you have set for the day. That is a nice feeling. For me it is very important to make a list of the tasks I know that I can get done in one day. And focus on those tasks. Then I know that I will be quite satisfied at the end of the day. Anyway. Keep up the good job. I get inspired by your videos so keep them coming. Cheers mate.
Screws through the wheel arches is a common (but lazy) method of attaching ply lining. It's a cheap and easy way of doing it, and the original owner won't have to deal with the consequences as they're likely to have sold the van before it becomes an issue. Yes, it annoys me too :(
Used Kurust for years now. Really good product, looking forward to more videos on your Sprinter. The floor look good. Try and use good products, eg Hammerite, it will pay dividends in the long run. 👍👍👍
Hey Raul, you are doing a good job. Don't stress too much about that rust or that it's a bad thing. What you have there is simply just surface rust which is to be expected on these types of vehicles, especially if they are not maintained extremely well. I would worry and consider selling and buying something else when I would have big holes (fist size) due to rust, but even then, with a bit of determination, a cheap grinder and wellder plus some sheetmetal and you can sort out most issues. As for the outside paint, I don't have any experience or ever used the method you are considering, but from your description, I would not consider it for a vehicle this size. I didn't quite catch it if you plan on painting the entire van with it or just the underside, but if you plan on using it on the entire van, I would reconsider and go another route. The reason why I say this is because the more texture you add to your outside paint, the more surface you create for air drag, and especially for such a big vehicle, it will most likely affect your overall fuel milage in the long run. A potentially better option if you want to paint the entire exterior would be with a wrap.
I just looked into the Raptor Paint and my judgement stands. I would not go with a full paint for the van with it, but I would do the entire underside of the van and bring it up about 15-20cm on the sides. That way you protect the bottom of the van and the sides where most of the rocks and dirt will hit the van, but without increasing the air drag of the van when going on the roads.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Yes you are right this is only surface rust and might be a good thing that is delt now rather than later. As for the raptor paint... not really sure it will affect the air drag, but a wrap job is definitely considered. Cheers 👍
Keep at it Raul... It can be slow, painstaking work but so worth it when it's done. We are into the second month of our European road trip and I am planning changes to the van already!
Pity not near me or you as could come and stitch you new piece of floor in with mig welder. That rust where floor meets arch below your "Screws" is coming in from outside/below. Later have wheel off when jack it up and get head underneath best is to have it steam cleaned underneath so can see what/where/if/why! Look for flat Zip wheel for grinder also be careful/mindful with Extension cables using with it wound up as lowers power you get as resistance and burns cable as works like an electric heater! There is a non and unwound rating stated on side of reel. Your better with white paint that way can always see if crud is grinning at you! Reason why Rally/Race cars are always white inside so can see cracks etc. Spray inside panels with likes of Waxoyl or big bottle of ACF50 when sticks to metal before cladding it as you will get shed loads of condensation when camping this time of year and once clad you can't get behind it. Have a rummage on here there is a guy that builds vans like your doing has great tips/help/info.
@@Raul689 Other thing to be mindful of is seams when they join/weld together they use seam sealer after because put on bare metal it rusts there! "Why Festa/Escort Floor pans fell out" Heat gun and scraper plus flat zipp wheel and cup but go with steel not Brass ones as they work better scurf it out treat then go round with sealent. Ho the joy's of Dealing with cars and vans fighting the The Appetite of the Ravenous "Tin Worm" One thing you could find better is something like ACF50 etc sprayed underneath "Everywhere" will be better than That under body gear you got as if can get ACF50 into metal will stop rust better than sealing it in It's one of the things learn't over the years and many Bodgers slapped underseal all over rusty cars then later found feet poking through floor as rust just carried on but you never saw it. My Uncle always said best underseal is engine oil and you never saw a rusty car with an engine oil leak! Yes it's a Butt Ache but best deal with rust properly now rather than in six months time and better you have dealt with it longer van last but also resale will be better should you wish to upgrade.
Might be too late to be useful, but beware using the hammerite underbody stuff inside the van. I had a rusty mazda mx5 and used it in the interior footwells and that stuff does not go completely dry. It stays ever so slightly tacky, particularly in warmer weather, or inside, and will come of onto other stuff by contact and can smell a bit once warm too. Great for under the arches, but I'd suggest something different for inside
There will always be conflicting views regarding a subject like this: "Get rid!", "Do this, do that, do the other", etc, blah yada........ All valid advice and all usually offered from the persons own perspective as to what THEY would do in the same circumstances. Fair play. To quote a cliche, opinions are like buttholes...... Everybody has one, and usually has the freedom to express it! Obviously, in most cases, finance is a big issue. But it isn't necessarily always the most significant. What about the end product and the benefits and enjoyment it could bring? What about the process and the sense of achievement that could bring?! Especially if you haven't done it before and didn't believe you could do it before you tried?! So far, you've been incredibly thorough and have gone about it in the same way a professional van converter would: back to basics and sort the fundamentals. What good would it be if you had Oak flooring set on top of a rusty floor with holes in it?! I also watch a lot of van conversion videos, and, like many other things, it would seem that the prep is the hardest and most intensive part of the build, and well worth spending the time and money to do it properly. The age of the van is somewhat immaterial. You could've bought a 68 plate with the same issues....... If you have the resources and are willing to put in the effort, go for it, enjoy the process, and keep filming it. I look forward to more videos on this, along with the driving stuff. It proves that a quality yootoober can produce quality videos on a wide variety of subjects. Enough of the ass licking. Cheers Raul.
@@Raul689 nasol atunci Dar ai procedat bine cu convertorul de rugina Daca ai gauri mari le poti acoperii cu fibra de sticla scoci pe partea din spate ca sa ai baza si fibra cu rasina apoi kit cu fibra de sticla dupa care amtifon sau hamerite dupa caz Numai are moarte Spor la treaba
Well done mate it’s looking better than it was you not thought of getting some axle stands??? If you get 2 sets of them you can elivate the van high enough to get underneath and brush on the under seal do it quite thick as it will give you better protection against rust better to find the rust and deal with it now rather than in couple of years later and you end up needing welding done after you have done all hard work and it’s fitted out you will be more upset then thst you gotta rip cupboards out or even worse to deal with it at later date you will save a fortune doing the graft yourself on eBay there’s company on there that does complete fit out you send him pics snd dimensions amd he builds you all you will need for your comforts that you will need also if you get a crew cab sliding door in it will give you the light you need inside so it’s not so dark 👍🏽👍🏽👊🏻
i use kurust on my project car, it is really good in my opinion i think you should have worn a mask while using your power tool - look after your health young man . but i guess it is fine if the re was a breezw blowing the dust away When you finish it will be very satisfying and rewarding
Take the plastic panels from the side of the van off and clear the drain holes The water sits behind them and stays there until its too late . See Bejam van or blackrock outfitters vids on youtube. THIS IS A MUST To do to your sprinter and can be sorted in a Morning....
Nice one Raul. Its the worst design ever.. ive seen water pouring out from 4 or 5 holes from 1 removed panel.. BlackRock outfitters videos are great too he just a guy that shows what to look for... Happy motorhoming you have started the right way....
@@dereklaybourn9891 i think they done that stupid design intentionally. Vehicles these days are not made to last. Keep it 10 years, scrapit, and get a new one 😄
@@Raul689 Also Raul check out your local Truck exporter... Many trucks go to Africa etc with good German Nightheaters, in them... No use in Africa........... I agree about design flaws they = New sales...
Rule no 1. never buy a 💩 box rusty van 🚐 to start with. 😂 Rule no 2. Wear a mask. 😷 Rule no 3. Don’t paint anything inside the van that has CFCS in if you can help it, bad for your lungs.
Better getting to the rust now and dealing with it than finding it later in the build. Great vid as always
That's what I'm thinking too 👍
The 2 holes in the wheel housing are for the holder for the fire extinguisher. i have exactly the same 2 holes in my van.
Loving the video Raul, you may find a UA-cam channel called project Amber of some help. He converted an old ambulance and is also helping his girlfriend convert her sprinter now. Keep it up 👍
Hey dude, good luck with the restoration 👍
A few tips for you:
-Get the vehicle underbody steam cleaned or powerwashed - It will be much easier to identifiy corrorosion and the underseal will adhere much better to clean surfaces. Undersealing is a waste of time if you skip this step IMO.
-After wire brushing check the surface for dimples/spots of rust, they can be hard to spot (and sometimes look like good steel). If you find them use a centre punch or flat blade screwdriver with a hammer and chip at them, otherwise the rust comes back and breaks through the new paint.
-Don't neglect the oil changes especially on a Sprinter as they have a timing chain.
-Hose out all the box sections and cavities, they hold a lot of shit that causes corrosion.
-Use cavity wax in the sills and box sections. I reccomend bilt hamber dynax s50, waxoil is shit.
-If you see any factory underseal that has bubbled, wire brush it off, paint then underseal.
I've restored a few vehicles now including a very rusty iveco daily and trust me do it right the first time and it'll last 👍
Thanks for this great tips. When you say the box section, do you mean the section where the water leaks in from the outside trims? I have vacuumed the area and looks ok for now, just a bit of dirt but i want to give it a test when raining to see if i have done the sealing correctly. Cheers 👍
@@Raul689 Box sections are like under floor ie like Chassis rails anywhere moisture can hide away with it's Tin worm buddy.
I love Sprinters. I drive a Sprinter maxi/wheelchair taxi. It's fantastic to drive.
Every single vehicle after a certain time spent in UK gets some kind of rust due to the fact of wet climate. If you got some spare room inside you might cut the front cockpit with steering wheel and all that and make a PC Van Simulator 😁 Take care mate 👍🏆
its looking ok Raul you and the misses made a good job of the floor 👍👍
Stick with it Raul, all the prep work you are doing now will pay dividends in the future, I converted a 7.5 tonne into a camper and ended up making my own ramps to access underneath with ease. Good luck 👍
I had a similar problem with finding a garage where I live, that I can rent for an hour or two, to do some work under my car. There is basicly none, at least not in this part of Norway. So I went to Biltema, a shop with carparts, accessories to cars and a lot of other things for your house and garden. Maby something like the eurocarparts shop over there. Anyway. I bought a pair of ramps so that I can drive my car up on them. One axel at the time. It gets the car some 30 centimeters higher up so that I can lay down under it and do some work. I think that they cost me the equivalent of 50 pounds.
I think that you are making good progress. It sucks to work outside in the cold. But when you think of the satisfaction when you are done with the tasks you have set for the day. That is a nice feeling. For me it is very important to make a list of the tasks I know that I can get done in one day. And focus on those tasks. Then I know that I will be quite satisfied at the end of the day.
Anyway. Keep up the good job. I get inspired by your videos so keep them coming.
Cheers mate.
Very good tip regarding the task list. Maybe I should try it, as I often find myself doing multiple things at once and finishing none 😄
You are going to make some good memories for you and the family Raul , if I lived near you I would love to help
Thanks pal 👍
Great video Raul, looking forward to seeing the next stage :)
Screws through the wheel arches is a common (but lazy) method of attaching ply lining. It's a cheap and easy way of doing it, and the original owner won't have to deal with the consequences as they're likely to have sold the van before it becomes an issue.
Yes, it annoys me too :(
You are right 😄
Used Kurust for years now. Really good product, looking forward to more videos on your Sprinter. The floor look good. Try and use good products, eg Hammerite, it will pay dividends in the long run. 👍👍👍
Hey Raul, you are doing a good job. Don't stress too much about that rust or that it's a bad thing. What you have there is simply just surface rust which is to be expected on these types of vehicles, especially if they are not maintained extremely well. I would worry and consider selling and buying something else when I would have big holes (fist size) due to rust, but even then, with a bit of determination, a cheap grinder and wellder plus some sheetmetal and you can sort out most issues.
As for the outside paint, I don't have any experience or ever used the method you are considering, but from your description, I would not consider it for a vehicle this size. I didn't quite catch it if you plan on painting the entire van with it or just the underside, but if you plan on using it on the entire van, I would reconsider and go another route. The reason why I say this is because the more texture you add to your outside paint, the more surface you create for air drag, and especially for such a big vehicle, it will most likely affect your overall fuel milage in the long run. A potentially better option if you want to paint the entire exterior would be with a wrap.
I just looked into the Raptor Paint and my judgement stands. I would not go with a full paint for the van with it, but I would do the entire underside of the van and bring it up about 15-20cm on the sides. That way you protect the bottom of the van and the sides where most of the rocks and dirt will hit the van, but without increasing the air drag of the van when going on the roads.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Yes you are right this is only surface rust and might be a good thing that is delt now rather than later. As for the raptor paint... not really sure it will affect the air drag, but a wrap job is definitely considered. Cheers 👍
I love the sitting height of the sprinters, you can see loads, but it probably feels low to you! Doesn't quite compare to a lorry!
Keep at it Raul... It can be slow, painstaking work but so worth it when it's done. We are into the second month of our European road trip and I am planning changes to the van already!
Niiice 👍 😁
Super ! Cu siguranta va arata super !!!
Mersi! Incercam... vedem cum v-a iesii 😁
Real masterpiece! Great job!
Pity not near me or you as could come and stitch you new piece of floor in with mig welder. That rust where floor meets arch below your "Screws" is coming in from outside/below. Later have wheel off when jack it up and get head underneath best is to have it steam cleaned underneath so can see what/where/if/why!
Look for flat Zip wheel for grinder also be careful/mindful with Extension cables using with it wound up as lowers power you get as resistance and burns cable as works like an electric heater! There is a non and unwound rating stated on side of reel.
Your better with white paint that way can always see if crud is grinning at you! Reason why Rally/Race cars are always white inside so can see cracks etc.
Spray inside panels with likes of Waxoyl or big bottle of ACF50 when sticks to metal before cladding it as you will get shed loads of condensation when camping this time of year and once clad you can't get behind it.
Have a rummage on here there is a guy that builds vans like your doing has great tips/help/info.
Thanks verry much for all the great tips, much appreciated 👍
@@Raul689 Other thing to be mindful of is seams when they join/weld together they use seam sealer after because put on bare metal it rusts there! "Why Festa/Escort Floor pans fell out" Heat gun and scraper plus flat zipp wheel and cup but go with steel not Brass ones as they work better scurf it out treat then go round with sealent.
Ho the joy's of Dealing with cars and vans fighting the The Appetite of the Ravenous "Tin Worm"
One thing you could find better is something like ACF50 etc sprayed underneath "Everywhere" will be better than That under body gear you got as if can get ACF50 into metal will stop rust better than sealing it in It's one of the things learn't over the years and many Bodgers slapped underseal all over rusty cars then later found feet poking through floor as rust just carried on but you never saw it.
My Uncle always said best underseal is engine oil and you never saw a rusty car with an engine oil leak!
Yes it's a Butt Ache but best deal with rust properly now rather than in six months time and better you have dealt with it longer van last but also resale will be better should you wish to upgrade.
Might be too late to be useful, but beware using the hammerite underbody stuff inside the van.
I had a rusty mazda mx5 and used it in the interior footwells and that stuff does not go completely dry. It stays ever so slightly tacky, particularly in warmer weather, or inside, and will come of onto other stuff by contact and can smell a bit once warm too.
Great for under the arches, but I'd suggest something different for inside
Thanks for the tips!
Hope Everything Is All Good With Rusty So Far
Excellent project.
There will always be conflicting views regarding a subject like this: "Get rid!", "Do this, do that, do the other", etc, blah yada........ All valid advice and all usually offered from the persons own perspective as to what THEY would do in the same circumstances. Fair play. To quote a cliche, opinions are like buttholes...... Everybody has one, and usually has the freedom to express it!
Obviously, in most cases, finance is a big issue. But it isn't necessarily always the most significant. What about the end product and the benefits and enjoyment it could bring? What about the process and the sense of achievement that could bring?! Especially if you haven't done it before and didn't believe you could do it before you tried?! So far, you've been incredibly thorough and have gone about it in the same way a professional van converter would: back to basics and sort the fundamentals. What good would it be if you had Oak flooring set on top of a rusty floor with holes in it?! I also watch a lot of van conversion videos, and, like many other things, it would seem that the prep is the hardest and most intensive part of the build, and well worth spending the time and money to do it properly. The age of the van is somewhat immaterial. You could've bought a 68 plate with the same issues....... If you have the resources and are willing to put in the effort, go for it, enjoy the process, and keep filming it.
I look forward to more videos on this, along with the driving stuff. It proves that a quality yootoober can produce quality videos on a wide variety of subjects.
Enough of the ass licking. Cheers Raul.
Thank you very much for your support. Really keeps me going and want to push forward 👍
Pentru acoperire mai buna si rezistenta mai mare iti recomand sa folosesti kit cu fibra de sticla
M-am gandit la varianta asta dar gaurile nu erau asa mari. Dupa curatare erau de marimea £1
Mersi 👍
@@Raul689 nasol atunci
Dar ai procedat bine cu convertorul de rugina
Daca ai gauri mari le poti acoperii cu fibra de sticla
scoci pe partea din spate ca sa ai baza si fibra cu rasina apoi kit cu fibra de sticla dupa care amtifon sau hamerite dupa caz
Numai are moarte
Spor la treaba
Usually when things turn blue and then turn black they fall off !
Well done mate it’s looking better than it was you not thought of getting some axle stands??? If you get 2 sets of them you can elivate the van high enough to get underneath and brush on the under seal do it quite thick as it will give you better protection against rust better to find the rust and deal with it now rather than in couple of years later and you end up needing welding done after you have done all hard work and it’s fitted out you will be more upset then thst you gotta rip cupboards out or even worse to deal with it at later date you will save a fortune doing the graft yourself on eBay there’s company on there that does complete fit out you send him pics snd dimensions amd he builds you all you will need for your comforts that you will need also if you get a crew cab sliding door in it will give you the light you need inside so it’s not so dark 👍🏽👍🏽👊🏻
Good point with the stands. I actually have a set of those. Cheers 👍
@@Raul689 result 😁😁😁👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
i use kurust on my project car, it is really good in my opinion
i think you should have worn a mask while using your power tool - look after your health young man . but i guess it is fine if the re was a breezw blowing the dust away
When you finish it will be very satisfying and rewarding
Yeah the wind was pushing it away but thanks for your concern 😁
Take the plastic panels from the side of the van off and clear the drain holes The water sits behind them and stays there until its too late . See Bejam van or blackrock outfitters vids on youtube. THIS IS A MUST To do to your sprinter and can be sorted in a Morning....
Done that! Thanks 😊
Nice one Raul. Its the worst design ever.. ive seen water pouring out from 4 or 5 holes from 1 removed panel.. BlackRock outfitters videos are great too he just a guy that shows what to look for... Happy motorhoming you have started the right way....
@@dereklaybourn9891 i think they done that stupid design intentionally. Vehicles these days are not made to last. Keep it 10 years, scrapit, and get a new one 😄
@@Raul689 Also Raul check out your local Truck exporter... Many trucks go to Africa etc with good German Nightheaters, in them... No use in Africa........... I agree about design flaws they = New sales...
Hi raul
I think you did ok , the rust isnt that deep.
Rule no 1. never buy a 💩 box rusty van 🚐 to start with. 😂
Rule no 2. Wear a mask. 😷
Rule no 3. Don’t paint anything inside the van that has CFCS in if you can help it, bad for your lungs.
get some hammerite on it
Sell, sell, sell,
Mask up next time brother
Possibly not the best vehicle for this project - move it on and get a better example with less rust