I have had a few Rollomatic ES bars, the standard and the light versions, 20" and 25". All of them had the small angled hole and had no problems with oiling. The small hole is enough to provide oil to the chain to this lenght. I don't know if bigger ones need more because I didn't use any bars bigger than 25". We cut hardwood in my area so these bar lenghts are perfect. Nice tip, though!
Hi I’m in the UK and have had the same problem. Two tanks of fuel and the paint was off the bar. This is with the 25”bar that came with it. I’ve put a 20”Origon bar on it with no problem. Ive now drilled out the oil hole on the 25” and it oils like a dream. All my saws seem to do I tank of fuel to 1/2 a tank of oil. The 500i was using much less with the 25” bar till I drilled it out. Oh and yes its a saw to behold what a dream to use.
Thanks for sharing. I just cooked a light weight bar. Took it off after half a tank of light work to check for oil flow and clean out the oiler. Assumed it was fixed then bucked 3/4 of a tank. Absolutely burning hot bar. Happy to know it's not user error.
I've noticed this too and thought my bar was clogged up but no even with the oiler pin knocked in and on max I still hear that dry chain sound after some heavy cutting. Definitely going to look into this more and probably drill it out.
I bought a new GB bar for my Stihl 026 it had that same style of oil hole. That bar burnt up pretty quick due to lack of oil. Purchased a stihl lightweight noticed the oil hole. Drill it out before use and haven't had a lick of trouble. I also drilled out the GB and now it oils just fine. I agree with you. That hole is to small.
Hi Mike. I really believe the smaller diameter of the hole is only part of the problem. Notice the hole is now drilled on an angle...? In theory one would think it should flow MUCH better that way. BUT it seems to also draw in ultra fine wood dust that then plugs the hole in the real world. This week I just bought a brand new 362c with a 20" light bar and the FIRST thing I did was drill the hole out to 9/64 perpendicular to the bar (straight in). That's the way the old bars were right from the factory. SOO much better and as an added bonus you still have a portion of the angled chamfer from the factory for great oiling. Glad this worked for you.
Hi thanks for the video, I only seen this earlier today and promptly checked my bars, both my 20inch and 25inch ES Light bars are like this and my 30inch Oregon Powercut is as well!! I will modify all 3 over the weekend. Strangely enough I have a Light 04 bar for my 261C and the oiling hole on it is "normal". Again many thanks for your time doing the video 📹
Light 04 bars are just the new name for standard bars see here: www.lsengineers.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/2183975d50b12d1ff8f0f4c988893bcd/s/t/stihl_bars_1.jpg
have you tapped in the oil feed limiter? next to the adjustable oil feed scerw there is a little pin that you need to tap in to unlock the max oil flow
Sorry I just saw this reply. Yes of course the oiler is turned to maximum. I see no reason to push that pin down because the bar should work properly without having to do that. And with the old style bars they always used to work properly. It does work perfectly now though.
I have had same problem and I've changed to a Tsumara bar which has the bigger hole like standard Sthil bars do but still have exact same problem so yes I think that it needs pin depressed to get max oil flow.
Have had a 500i here in Oz for approaching 18 months now. We got one early to evaluate for Stihl because we do commercial firewood in hardwoods much higher density (8.5 Janka) than most USA timbers & much larger diameter also. The 500i is one of 3 basically new saws we run from Stihl, an 880 & a 661C also. Here’s a problem you likely haven’t run into yet if your not running the bigger Stihl saws, that Stihl haven’t fixed yet. We run 404 chain on the 880 & 661c, buy it bye the roll and make up our own chains to suit whatever length bar is being used at the time on whichever saw. It’s all “interchangeable between the 880 & 661c. But not so the 500i. It only comes with 3/8th chain bar. & sprockets! You can’t buy a 404 drive sprocket to fit the 500i. Stihl don’t make one! So this means you have to buy double the components (a roll of 3/8th chain & bars) to fit exclusively the 500i & you have to cart twice as much gear out in the Forest with you to be able to use the 3 different saws. Bars & chains & drive sprockets are interchangeable between the 880 & 661c - but NOT the 500i? Whatever we’re the Stihl engineers thinking? The answer is, unfortunately the Stihl engineers don’t have the actual experience around the world with their products in different nations and on different timbers to take “common sense” issues like interchangeability between saws when designing and building new models like the 500i. Let’s say your out bush using your 500i and you do something that tweaks a bar and ruins a chain near the start of the day. Do you then want to pick up the heavier 661c or 880 for the rest of the day or would it be better to swap the chain and bar from the 661C onto the lighter 500i power head and keep working for the rest of the day? Typically we will fall dead stags with the 500i and then set to ringing up the tree while it’s on the ground with the 661c or 880 depending on diameter of the tree and length of bar on the saw.. Once it’s on the ground your not supporting the weight of the saw while cutting firewood rings, it’s supporting itself as it cuts down under its own weight so the larger longer bar saws are better for this part of the days work. We might start at the butt end with the 880 and with the 661c up at the crown end with two operators and cut from each end towards the centre / each other. The 500i is preferred for falling duties because it’s lighter. But the lack of interchangeability of drive sprockets chain & bars between the 500i & it’s bigger brothers is a major oversight by Stihl. They know about it (because we’ve told them, BUT now after 18 months they haven’t fixed it by making the 404 drive sprocket for the 500i available to us. Probably another brand like Oregon will have to be first to make the requisite parts available Major clients like logging companies and Forestry Departments who order large numbers of saws - won’t be impressed by this oversight, but Stihl just don’t seem to understand or care. It makes one scratch ones head in bewilderment to be honest. I guess after using exclusively Stihl saws since 1982 to now I kind of expected more from Stihl. They need to listen to their customers feedback more & they need to act faster to remedy oversights like this. How hard is it to design and make 404 drive sprockets for the 500i for those who don’t want to run 3/8th chain? My 2C - love my 500i, it’s the first saw I reach for now being over 60 and not as young as I once was, because of the light weight and power to weight ratio but the “no 404 chain option” on the 500i bugs me and after 18 months and the number of their saws I’ve bought off them over almost 4 decades now (I used to buy also for the Forestry Department a dozen at a time of multiples of models every budget year for all my crews) as well as my own logging saw mulling company needs, it kinda p!sses me off that Stihl arent listening to their feedback & acting inspiring it fast enough. My 2c and then some. Stihl have lost their way in the area of service.
So the clutch drum spline set up is different to 660 462 etc? If so it would not be able to take a standard 3/8 sprocket either. So the 3/8 sprocket on a 500 cannot go on a 462?
Thanks for sharing, I recently purchased a 500I… earlier today I saw a video on felling trees produced by Husqvarna and I heard the term environmentally friendly oiler 🤔 I’ll be drilling my 32” and 25” bar out tomorrow!
Hahaha! Exactly. Maybe when the EPA starts paying for our equipment replacement, then we'll do it their way.. So as I show in the video the way Stihl used to drill their bars is better in my opinion. This modification represents absolutely nothing new, it's just a duplication of the way Stihl used to do it and it works way better.
From the stock form u only got about an 1/8 of a turn of adjustment on the oiler knock the roll pin down u get double the capability to a 1/4 turn of adjustment. It’s the very first thing I do when I get a new saw. Tht and take the muffler and cover off and get a step bit and open them up so they can actually breathe. Saw runs WAY better and u get more power
You are exactly right brother and why did they not put grease hole in top the light bar sings grom lack of grease in top and lack of oil .try knocking pin out of oiler screw and turn all the way up and open the oil hole she ll stay cool 😎
Thanks for the video and keep up the great work. If you take the bar and chain off and rev the saw, you'll see how much oil actually comes out with no restriction and see how the hole that was in the bar should've been big enough before. I think it may have just had trouble priming. Keep us updated how things get along. Thanks again.
Yea lots of bar manufacturers have been putting in those hoakie angled holes...stupid right...I hear yea..they work like crap. Great observation worth share.thank you. Shoe
I also have a 25 inch light bar and it oils perfectly, did u try turning up the oil pump by tapping on the pin near the adjustment screw restricting the flow? I did this and almost use a tank of oil per tank of fuel. Your saw oiler could be set too economic..
I just bought a new Stihl Rollomatic ES Light to replace my original Stihl Rollomatic E Standard bar for my Stihl MS 362 C-M. I was really looking forward to adding a 30% decreased weight to an already light saw further increasing the power to weight ratio of this beast of a chain saw. So I get the new light bar and immediately weigh the bare bar on my wife’s kitchen food scale, with the light bar coming in at 32.9 ounces. So then I go to the shed and change out the new bar for the old, clean up the old bar real good, because I’m going to be weighing it on my wife’s food scale, and it comes in at 36.0 ounces, a whopping 3.1 ounces lighter, or an unimpressive 10%. Now I ask myself, why did I just pay $148, three times as much as I could have for a Standard bar, to save a mere 3.1 ounces? I was expecting the bar to be 30% lighter, which would have been about a 25 ounce bar. Stihl, you lied to me!
Wow.. that is surprising. I know on the 28th and the 32, it made a huge difference. The 32-inch bar length on a standard bar causes a 661 to nosedive when you pick it up. Totally not the case with the light bar on the longer length. Very good information. I have a 362 also, and you're right it's a great little saw.
Recently purchased an ms400 and noticed it struggled to properly oil the stihl es 20 inch even with oiler turned to max. It did really good with a sugihara so I drilled out the oil hole on the es bar to an 5/32 inch and man it oils like a champ now. Pretty sad we have to drill out holes on brand knew stihl bars.
Not going to read all the comments, but my first thought was did you turn your oiler to max flow? I have a 20” light on a 400, 24” light on a 462 and a 32” light on a 661 and don’t have hot spots on any of them. The first thing I do to any saw is turn up the oilers. The new big stihls also have the pin that needs to be depressed to get the extra 1/8 turn on the oiler screw. Those light bars are spendy so I’d be pissed if it got burned straight away.
I haven’t had a problem except once with this type of bar. The hole was partially plugged. Took it off and used a wire to clean it out. Then it was fine.
@@gregcjdr I found, for my applications the big hole gets plugged up worse. My tsumara bars all have the big hole and I'm always having to unplug it. I find the Oregon and sthil small, slanted bars stay cleaner, longer. As long as the oiler is cranked. Which running bars no shorter then 32, they are always turned up to the max.
Did you try turning up the Oiler? I run all my oilers wide open not sure on the 500 but sometimes you have to drive a pin down to get them to adjust fully
make sure your oiling holes in the bar is not clogged adn that where the face where the bar rests on is also clean.. may also need to turn your oiler up
Hi I really can’t remember. It would have been a metric size being in the uk. I’ve also knocked the pin in on the oil adjuster which gave me another fraction of a turn to max. The guy in the video said 9/64 and I would have gone close in metric. Hope that helps. It’s been fine since I felled 1000 trees last year probably 40% with 25 in bar.
I don’t understand why they are restricting the oil so much. A friend of mine has to run winter oil year round because his ms291 is not adjustable. It would not put oil out even with the bar removed
Been running a 500i for almost 2 years and used it for milling too with a variety of bars and never had this problem . I can't see much different in what you have been doing but your video is only discussion not demonstration. Have you turned up the oil flow at all? I did to suit the job. It is set to minimum from factory btw.
I don’t know if the 500i has a limiter pin preventing the oil flow screw from being turned fully like on the MS 661-C. I used the point of a round file and a block of wood to push mine in. Hope this helps
Hello Thomas. Yes the 500i does he have a limiting pin. But quite honestly there's just no need to push it down after this modification. I just cut a 40 inch diameter tree and sectioned the whole thing to 18 inch pieces without a single issue. Thank you for the reply however.
@@br-dj2ti hello. Thanks for joining. Yes the 500i does have that same pain but I found it unnecessary to modify it. The saw oils excellently when the bar is converted to the old style oiling hole.
Thank you for your 500i bar discussion and reviews. I'd be curious if a 20" bar would allow a switch from a 7 to an 8 pin chain ring for faster cutting. I too was thinking about 500i with 25" bar and possibly .404 chain for trail work. The reason for the .404 chain is its much longer service life between sharpening when working close to the ground compared to 3/8th .375 chain. Working close to the ground with wood that has been on the ground for an extended period of time meaning it is dirty with splatter and bucking it into double length rounds for removal. I was disappointed when I picked up a 500i with a 28" bar at how unbalanced and heavy it felt. The 25" is probably a bit better, but not nimble. In our area, Indiana, most of the downed trees needing removal are ash trees killed by the boring beetle. Lots and lots of dead standing ash trees still here! A 20" bar is little short for the larger trees, but the 25" likely makes the saw a more trouble to use for most cutting situations. Because of your videos I much more inclined to go with the 20" bar on the 500i. I think it might be better to have a 22" bar, but that appears to be uncommon. I'm proficient with a chainsaw cutting enough to do strategic cutting of a log to best fit the saw and finishing up by having to cut from the other side of the log for the exceptional situation is no brainer in exchange for having a much better handling saw. Now for the occasional milling, having a long bar that that is a few inches longer than the cut is very desirable and for that if the saw will take it going bigger is better. Ripping chain is has less active cutters than even a skip chain. Ripping chain typically has full complement cutter spacing, but half the cutters have been shaved off to just cut the edges of the kerf. Im hoping a 32" bar on a 500i with ripping chain would work fine with the saw. Ripping chain can do cross cutting, but it is about half as fast as a traditional cross cut chain. So if there is the rare occasion I want a very smooth cross cut I could still put on the 32" bar with ripping chain and cut a cookie off the previous cut log to get an absolutely clean looking cut. I wouldn't plan to have a stock of regular cross cut 32" bar length chains, well maybe one, but I'd like have 3 ripping chains for it. I hand file my 3/8" chains with a gangbridge file jig, but with a chain holder on a shop vise. I wish the chain holder would allow closing the rails to grip the chain guides to firm up the cutters for filing. I made it chain holder myself from a couple of pieces of 1/8" low carbon steel a couple of quarter coins in-between the steel for spacing. I then had to drill a hole in one of the pieces for the gangbridge file jig to fit its clamp on screw through to the other side piece of metal because clamping down on the outside of the metal piece caused it to close the gap needed for holding the chain. The file jig has screw camps for holding down on the chain and I loosen and tighten one side of these for each cutter being sharpened to hold the cutters as still as possible for the file. This saw chain sharpening setup has provided years of well sharpened chains. From cleaning the chains to happening and then light cleaning it takes about 25 minutes per chain that fit a 17" bar. They then sit in a tube of bar oil till needed on the saw. I hang the chains and let them drip excess oil back into the tube when getting ready to fit them on the saw.
Funny, I dip all my chains in oil and hang them after sharpening as well. I do way too much cutting to be sharpened by hand however, So I bought An electric chain sharpener with an automatic chain clamp every time you draw the head down. Soon as you let iet up it releases so you can Glide the next cutter head into yhe exact position that the previous ones were. Each cutterhead is exactly the same, And this machine allows me to be completely consistent as I vary the cutter head angle for the various power that each of the different powerheads have. I was really surprised to read that you like running a 20" bar on a 500i. I Wasn't as surprised you found the 28th inch to be a little nose heavy. Let me promise you...The 500i with the 28" lightweight bar is extremely balanced. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I run a 32" lightweight bar on my 661. But as for your 500i with a 20" bar, I kind of just see that as overkill. If you can accomplish your work with that 20" bar you probably could have done with the 362. The 362 is still a pro line saw and has every bit the power you need for a 20" bar. I run a sandard 20" Rolllomatic ES on my 362. The 362 is lighter and has tons of power for a saw its size! I love it! And if a 20" bar is all you need then you would love it too.
@@gregcjdr I'll check out a 500i with a light weight 25" bar to see if it feels balanced if ai can. I'll suggest my local dealer have one on display. I took it that you were running a 20" bar on a 500i. I've debated about going to a more automated chain sharpener. I use chainsaws for clearing downed wood, occasionally larger brush removal. Once in a great while I fell trees. Typically I use two chains in a session with another one in waiting as a spare. I hope to get at least one tank of fuel per chain sharpening or about 25 minutes of cutting and it takes about 25 minutes to clean and sharpen a chain without touching the depth gauges. If I take the depths gauges down it's like another sharpening as far as time and effort goes increasing the time to 45 minutes. I only do depths gauges 2 to 3 times in a 3/8ths Stihl RS chain's cutter life. The Gangbridge file jig once you've gotten a few sharpening experiences produced the best cutting chain in Project Farms chainsaw sharpening videos and when I used that technique on a Club's saw I was wanting to join the person came back to me and said he'd never had that saw cut anything like that good. It may have helped me get into the club :-). Thank you for the video.
My 28 bar on my 461 doesn't oil like my 290 or 170. It barely has oil at tip when u rev it to see if it throws oil. I too thought that hole is different. My oil tank is bout empty when gas is but chain seems dryish I have thought bout doing same mod now I'm doing it for sure. Are u running out of oil to early any?
No, I can't say that I am running out of oil early. If you are it is possible that your oil hole on the bar is plugged with sawdust Maybe? Clean that out thoroughly and then use a Groove cleaning hook to pull all the gunk out of the bar Groove then clean those oiling holes with a spray brake cleaner and then re lubricate. The solution of drilling the bar has worked wonders for me however back to the old style in the old sizes that the older bars used to have. Just bought a new 32-inch light weight bar for 661 and modified it. I couldn't be happier with the results on all 5 of my saws. And I have never had to push down the oil limiting Peg either on any of them. I simply turn the Oilers to maximum and with this Drilling modification everything's great.
@@gregcjdr yeah I drilled mine out and oils great now. Yeah I always tried keeping holes clean and bar but I think that hole so small it clogs easy and restricts flow. Thanks for video glad I did it.
There is a lot to be said for using a smaller bar when that is all that is necessary. For example let's say you're cutting in to sections a 16 inch round tree. Would we really need or want a 28 inch bar? All that's going to do is get in your way and increase the opportunity for Kickback if the nose of the bar should hit another section of the tree. As you know the longer bar more likely that is to happen.. so here's my advice and recommendation to you that you asked for: go ahead and buy the 20 inch bar but you really don't need a 500i if all you're running is a 20 inch bar. So also order the 25 inch or 28 inch bar and have it on hand. You'll be glad you did. I have a 20 inch in my truck as well but I have it mounted to a 362C. And the 362c is all that's needed to pull that 20 in chain. So that's why I said you really don't need a 500i if all you're running is a 20" bar. So buy the small bar for ease of use and safety for the small stuff but make sure you buy a bigger one also so that you can use the saws potential. Thanks
@@gregcjdr Great info... Thanks, Greg. I already have the MS500i so hopefully it will be a lifelong machine for me. Good advice about keeping a longer bar as well... 28 or maybe a 32. I thought these saws were supposed to come stock with a light ES bar but this one did not. I’m going to call Stihl USA to find out why.
@@bertraminc9412 you know you're right! They were initially advertised as coming with the lightweight bar included. But when steel USA received its second shipment of four hundred 500i saws for distribution to its dealers, that changed. My friend who owns four hardware stores and sells a ton of Stihll product informed me of that change only recently. So yes, now you have to specify that you want a lightweight bar. I wonder if they did that to keep the MSRP down. But I really do like this lightweight bar and put one on my brand new 362 as well.
@@gregcjdr Wow, you’re a good information source! Now I don’t have to call Stihl! The dealer is friendly and has one on order and they are going to swap it out no charge for me. Thanks again!
Hey just let you know this bar I got the 28 in a couple of months ago and on this one that has the original big hole actually I think it's a little bit bigger now so that was nice of them to start drilling up maybe they had so many complaints I know I run a 32 inch sometimes I have to slow down a little oil now lol
The bar is not the problem. The oiler screw from the factory is not turned all the way up. There’s a roll pin next to the oiler. Take a punch and punch the roll pin down about a quarter inch or until flush then and only then can u can FULL adjustment outta ur oiler bud.
Hi thanks for your comments. In my case however, the bar was definitely the problem. Dry pulpy wood created a much finer, dustier discharge that was blocking those holes before I drilled them. They would plug up very easily. No more problems.
Thank you. It works perfectly now. I also did the same to the bar on our new 362 and the new lightweight 32 inch bar for the 661. All work perfectly without having to punch out the oil limiting peg. Don't know why they ever moved to this design from the old design.
@@skrrtrolling9573 I was told they did that to reduce the amount of oil being used. Now on one hand I think it was a great idea in theory to drill the oil hole in an angle because almost like a suction it was angled toward the direction of the chain movement and you would think it would pull the oil in more effectively. But in reality that hole is too damn small and it brought in or drew in ultra fine dust particles that plug the hole. That's been my experience. Since drilling out the bar in my 500 I and the lightweight bar on my new 362 that I picked up about 2 weeks ago, they both oil like a million dollars. And I see absolutely no need to ever punch out the oil limiter pin. There's plenty of oil now.
@@gregcjdr I’ve noticed a more dry chain then I prefer on longer bars like 32-42” I did open them all up already for the same reasons. I wonder if it’s for sales of the diff bar oils they offer as some are a fair amount thinner
The good question I don't know the answer. I was told it was because of environmental concerns and cutting down the amount of oil used and left in the environment. Look... as far as I'm concerned I'm not about to be burning up chains so I'll drill every single one from this point out to the old style. You know I never ever ever had a problem in 24 years with that old style oil hole. Never had a problem until I encountered this new design on my new saws. You see I never went in for the lightweight bars so I had not encountered this issue and all the bars I have, and I have dozens of them and they're in great shape, so I hadn't bought a bar in a long long time. This was my introduction to this problem. So when in your opinion did they start with this new design? Any idea?
The only reason why it was dried up is because the oiler hole on the bar was plugged up or and some wood chips On it that probably came out when you Took off the cover that’s the reason
Hello Ethan. I don't disagree with you. My point is it shouldn't happen so easily and I've never had this issue happen so easily with the older style drill holes on the bars I had been using for 24 plus years. I now I have 3 lightweight bars for the various saws and I drilled all of them to the same size as the old bar design specification and I've had no further issues. But yes. I agree with you.
The MS500I has been in the state since late last year if you knew the right dealer. The oiler on all new Stihl saws is set to about 1/2-3/4 flow, Set it to max flow and you shouldnt have any issues. Also, the angled oiler hole is normal and works fine if your oiler is turned up.
@@gregcjdr the 500i has a pin like the 661 you punch and it gives extra oil ive had mine since may 1 of 2019 you can check my youtube channel there is videos of that
Dallas. Hello, I am happy to read your reply. That is 2 people now who have said these saws were available earlier...and I believe you! But I have to say I'm seriously disappointed with the rep for the NW Indiana area after learning this. EVERYTIME we called they said the song was not available in America yet and we called every one to two weeks since February! The only reason we got this one it's because we bug them so much and because Kevin, my friend who owns four True Value hardware stores, ordered his entire fall inventory at the same time and that's the only reason we got this saw. Seriously disappointed in Stihl's rep right now. Yes the oiler was turned all the way up and yes I know about the pin. I didn't mention in the video but I've been doing this for 24 years now but not trying to impress anyone. The fact was with the oiler turned all the way up that chain was bone dry running hard in the bar. Another thing I incorrectly said in the video was that I had cut the tree up. Actually all I did was dropped the tree at about 18 inches off the ground and then went back about 2 inches above the ground cut it level. So only after two cuts I had this issue. And I would like everyone to know that after drilling it out like any of the other Stihl bars it works perfectly now. Thank you for the info.
@@thirdstreettito Hello Brad. Thanks for joining in. Yeah, the saw power head itself oils magnificently actually. Just my personal opinion but I feel the oiling holes in these lightweight bars are too small. Since I converted it to be exactly like the solid steel bars.. it is outstanding! Many of you guys probably already knew this but this was the first time in 24 years that I've ever used a lightweight bar and I did not notice the size of these oil holes in the beginning. I suppose I was always of the opinion the lightweight bars would not be as durable as the solid bars, but I'm sure I was wrong. I guess I'll see . I absolutely love this saw now. By the way I'm wondering what part of the country do you live in where this saws was available so much earlier?
If you have numbers, include on video, for example weights of the various bars, with chains, since we can look up the bars alone online. Also, one thing to consider when bucking, your torso weighs something, likely more than any length of bar. When you bend over with a short bar, your body is working hard to support the weight of your off-center-balance torso. With a longer bar, you don't bend over as much, if at all. You just have to learn to know where your tip is, or just cut 3/4 or 7/8 through and roll to finish. It's pretty fast to get used to it and you'll love your increased endurance as a result while hating yourself for not making the change earlier in life. I'd much rather carry a longer bar, especially a light model, than a bent over torso when bucking. Save your short bars for in-tree work or limbing stuff that's well off the ground where you don't have to bend over. With the 500i, I cut mostly PA, OH, and WV hardwoods such as red or pin oak, ash, shagbark hickory, beech, black locust, sycamore, poplar, fruit trees, soft maple, etc. and haven't had trouble with oiling on usually a 25 or 36 inch bar including that angled hole. I use other sizes with other smaller saws, but the 500i oils well with the two aforementioned sizes that I use. Thanks for posting the video.
If the oil was running in proportion with the gas Where was it going if not on the chain.. And if bigger hole makes it oil the chain better then oil will no longer run in proportion with gas.. but that's Stihl for ya
The manual? Gee why didn't I think of that? The point of this video was to express MY OPINION that the bar oiling is insufficient even with the Saw Oiler pegged to maximum. These chains are now very well lubricated. You really think I care about saving a certain percentage of oil and burning up a bar or a chain? I don't. But thanks for pointing me to the manual
I get your point, potentially a good. catch. But that camerawork ... are you trying to induce seizures? Phone 'tripods are cheap'. And if you have that saw, you have a bench.
No! Hopefully no seizures. And no I don't have a tripod I'm not into this UA-cam all that heavily. Saw something important and wanted to put it out there for people. Don't let the message get lost and the fact that I'm trying to hold the camera with one hand while demonstrating with the other. If it's a problem for you please step off the channel.
I just bought a brand new 500i with a 32 inch Stihl lightweight bar and I'm having the same issues even after tapping the roll pin in and turning the oil pump to max so yeah I'm quite pissed myself and I'm going into my dealer monday and gonna get them to swap out the bar with a better one.
@@gregcjdr yeah he is a qualified technician and he ended up drilling the bar oil ports out he doesn't understand why they made them like that he said probably to try and not use as much bar oil but definitely a design flaw other than that I really like the lightweight bar. Thanks for responding!
I have had a few Rollomatic ES bars, the standard and the light versions, 20" and 25". All of them had the small angled hole and had no problems with oiling. The small hole is enough to provide oil to the chain to this lenght. I don't know if bigger ones need more because I didn't use any bars bigger than 25". We cut hardwood in my area so these bar lenghts are perfect. Nice tip, though!
Hi I’m in the UK and have had the same problem. Two tanks of fuel and the paint was off the bar. This is with the 25”bar that came with it. I’ve put a 20”Origon bar on it with no problem. Ive now drilled out the oil hole on the 25” and it oils like a dream. All my saws seem to do I tank of fuel to 1/2 a tank of oil. The 500i was using much less with the 25” bar till I drilled it out. Oh and yes its a saw to behold what a dream to use.
Acknowledged. What size drill you use to drill your bar out? 9/64"?
@@FredFlintstone21 that will work just perfectly
Have about 5 tanks thru my ported 462:...28” light bar... I’m gonna look at this today, thanks for heads up
Thanks for sharing. I just cooked a light weight bar. Took it off after half a tank of light work to check for oil flow and clean out the oiler. Assumed it was fixed then bucked 3/4 of a tank. Absolutely burning hot bar. Happy to know it's not user error.
Thanks for pointing up that out. I’ve got the same problem. I’ve bought a new bar for my 038 I’ll have to drill out exactly like you great video 👍🏻
WOW, JUST ORDERED 25' LIFHT BAR $200 BUCKS, PURCHASED 500I LAST WEEK, WILL MAKE OIL HOLE LARGER, TY❤❤❤❤
I've noticed this too and thought my bar was clogged up but no even with the oiler pin knocked in and on max I still hear that dry chain sound after some heavy cutting. Definitely going to look into this more and probably drill it out.
I bought a new GB bar for my Stihl 026 it had that same style of oil hole. That bar burnt up pretty quick due to lack of oil. Purchased a stihl lightweight noticed the oil hole. Drill it out before use and haven't had a lick of trouble. I also drilled out the GB and now it oils just fine. I agree with you. That hole is to small.
Hi Mike. I really believe the smaller diameter of the hole is only part of the problem. Notice the hole is now drilled on an angle...? In theory one would think it should flow MUCH better that way. BUT it seems to also draw in ultra fine wood dust that then plugs the hole in the real world. This week I just bought a brand new 362c with a 20" light bar and the FIRST thing I did was drill the hole out to 9/64 perpendicular to the bar (straight in). That's the way the old bars were right from the factory. SOO much better and as an added bonus you still have a portion of the angled chamfer from the factory for great oiling. Glad this worked for you.
Hi thanks for the video, I only seen this earlier today and promptly checked my bars, both my 20inch and 25inch ES Light bars are like this and my 30inch Oregon Powercut is as well!! I will modify all 3 over the weekend. Strangely enough I have a Light 04 bar for my 261C and the oiling hole on it is "normal". Again many thanks for your time doing the video 📹
Light 04 bars are just the new name for standard bars see here: www.lsengineers.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/2183975d50b12d1ff8f0f4c988893bcd/s/t/stihl_bars_1.jpg
have you tapped in the oil feed limiter?
next to the adjustable oil feed scerw there is a little pin that you need to tap in to unlock the max oil flow
Sorry I just saw this reply. Yes of course the oiler is turned to maximum. I see no reason to push that pin down because the bar should work properly without having to do that. And with the old style bars they always used to work properly. It does work perfectly now though.
I have had same problem and I've changed to a Tsumara bar which has the bigger hole like standard Sthil bars do but still have exact same problem so yes I think that it needs pin depressed to get max oil flow.
Yes it's actually in the factory Stihl manual that for Max oil flow the pin needs to be depressed to open up more oil flow for longer bars
Have had a 500i here in Oz for approaching 18 months now. We got one early to evaluate for Stihl because we do commercial firewood in hardwoods much higher density (8.5 Janka) than most USA timbers & much larger diameter also.
The 500i is one of 3 basically new saws we run from Stihl, an 880 & a 661C also.
Here’s a problem you likely haven’t run into yet if your not running the bigger Stihl saws, that Stihl haven’t fixed yet.
We run 404 chain on the 880 & 661c, buy it bye the roll and make up our own chains to suit whatever length bar is being used at the time on whichever saw.
It’s all “interchangeable between the 880 & 661c.
But not so the 500i.
It only comes with 3/8th chain bar. & sprockets!
You can’t buy a 404 drive sprocket to fit the 500i. Stihl don’t make one!
So this means you have to buy double the components (a roll of 3/8th chain & bars) to fit exclusively the 500i & you have to cart twice as much gear out in the Forest with you to be able to use the 3 different saws.
Bars & chains & drive sprockets are interchangeable between the 880 & 661c - but NOT the 500i?
Whatever we’re the Stihl engineers thinking?
The answer is, unfortunately the Stihl engineers don’t have the actual experience around the world with their products in different nations and on different timbers to take “common sense” issues like interchangeability between saws when designing and building new models like the 500i.
Let’s say your out bush using your 500i and you do something that tweaks a bar and ruins a chain near the start of the day. Do you then want to pick up the heavier 661c or 880 for the rest of the day or would it be better to swap the chain and bar from the 661C onto the lighter 500i power head and keep working for the rest of the day?
Typically we will fall dead stags with the 500i and then set to ringing up the tree while it’s on the ground with the 661c or 880 depending on diameter of the tree and length of bar on the saw..
Once it’s on the ground your not supporting the weight of the saw while cutting firewood rings, it’s supporting itself as it cuts down under its own weight so the larger longer bar saws are better for this part of the days work.
We might start at the butt end with the 880 and with the 661c up at the crown end with two operators and cut from each end towards the centre / each other.
The 500i is preferred for falling duties because it’s lighter.
But the lack of interchangeability of drive sprockets chain & bars between the 500i & it’s bigger brothers is a major oversight by Stihl.
They know about it (because we’ve told them, BUT now after 18 months they haven’t fixed it by making the 404 drive sprocket for the 500i available to us.
Probably another brand like Oregon will have to be first to make the requisite parts available
Major clients like logging companies and Forestry Departments who order large numbers of saws - won’t be impressed by this oversight, but Stihl just don’t seem to understand or care.
It makes one scratch ones head in bewilderment to be honest.
I guess after using exclusively Stihl saws since 1982 to now I kind of expected more from Stihl.
They need to listen to their customers feedback more & they need to act faster to remedy oversights like this.
How hard is it to design and make 404 drive sprockets for the 500i for those who don’t want to run 3/8th chain?
My 2C - love my 500i, it’s the first saw I reach for now being over 60 and not as young as I once was, because of the light weight and power to weight ratio but the “no 404 chain option” on the 500i bugs me and after 18 months and the number of their saws I’ve bought off them over almost 4 decades now (I used to buy also for the Forestry Department a dozen at a time of multiples of models every budget year for all my crews) as well as my own logging saw mulling company needs, it kinda p!sses me off that Stihl arent listening to their feedback & acting inspiring it fast enough.
My 2c and then some.
Stihl have lost their way in the area of service.
So the clutch drum spline set up is different to 660 462 etc? If so it would not be able to take a standard 3/8 sprocket either. So the 3/8 sprocket on a 500 cannot go on a 462?
@@denisthemenace. change the whole clutch drum on the 500i to one of the 661c or are they not interchangeable?
On my 500i the drum fits my 404 sprocket perfectly fine.
Go the other way then. Put 3/8 on your 661 and 880. Parts are out there. Not perfect scenario, but still pretty good solution.
Thanks for sharing, I recently purchased a 500I… earlier today I saw a video on felling trees produced by Husqvarna and I heard the term environmentally friendly oiler 🤔 I’ll be drilling my 32” and 25” bar out tomorrow!
Hahaha! Exactly. Maybe when the EPA starts paying for our equipment replacement, then we'll do it their way.. So as I show in the video the way Stihl used to drill their bars is better in my opinion. This modification represents absolutely nothing new, it's just a duplication of the way Stihl used to do it and it works way better.
Thanks, I’ll check mine tomorrow. I just picked it up last Friday. Thank you.
From the stock form u only got about an 1/8 of a turn of adjustment on the oiler knock the roll pin down u get double the capability to a 1/4 turn of adjustment. It’s the very first thing I do when I get a new saw. Tht and take the muffler and cover off and get a step bit and open them up so they can actually breathe. Saw runs WAY better and u get more power
You are exactly right brother and why did they not put grease hole in top the light bar sings grom lack of grease in top and lack of oil .try knocking pin out of oiler screw and turn all the way up and open the oil hole she ll stay cool 😎
Thanks for the heads up, I'm picking up my new bar tomorrow
Same here, Cannon duralite solved it. Addl: Cannon's belly helps with sagging on longer bars. 28" .063 semi-skip 500i
Agreed 100%. I had the same issue with my stighl light bars.
Pleases to see I'm not the only one.
Thanks for the video and keep up the great work. If you take the bar and chain off and rev the saw, you'll see how much oil actually comes out with no restriction and see how the hole that was in the bar should've been big enough before. I think it may have just had trouble priming. Keep us updated how things get along. Thanks again.
Hello. Thank you. Yes it's just been perfect since I drilled it.
Yea lots of bar manufacturers have been putting in those hoakie angled holes...stupid right...I hear yea..they work like crap. Great observation worth share.thank you. Shoe
I've used mine commercially every day since August with the light bar and I've never had a problem
Hi, thank you for joining. Crazy right? I wish they had been my experience. But I swear it oils like a locomotive now. Lol
I also have a 25 inch light bar and it oils perfectly, did u try turning up the oil pump by tapping on the pin near the adjustment screw restricting the flow? I did this and almost use a tank of oil per tank of fuel. Your saw oiler could be set too economic..
I just bought a new Stihl Rollomatic ES Light to replace my original Stihl Rollomatic E Standard bar for my Stihl MS 362 C-M. I was really looking forward to adding a 30% decreased weight to an already light saw further increasing the power to weight ratio of this beast of a chain saw. So I get the new light bar and immediately weigh the bare bar on my wife’s kitchen food scale, with the light bar coming in at 32.9 ounces. So then I go to the shed and change out the new bar for the old, clean up the old bar real good, because I’m going to be weighing it on my wife’s food scale, and it comes in at 36.0 ounces, a whopping 3.1 ounces lighter, or an unimpressive 10%. Now I ask myself, why did I just pay $148, three times as much as I could have for a Standard bar, to save a mere 3.1 ounces? I was expecting the bar to be 30% lighter, which would have been about a 25 ounce bar. Stihl, you lied to me!
Wow.. that is surprising. I know on the 28th and the 32, it made a huge difference. The 32-inch bar length on a standard bar causes a 661 to nosedive when you pick it up. Totally not the case with the light bar on the longer length. Very good information. I have a 362 also, and you're right it's a great little saw.
Recently purchased an ms400 and noticed it struggled to properly oil the stihl es 20 inch even with oiler turned to max. It did really good with a sugihara so I drilled out the oil hole on the es bar to an 5/32 inch and man it oils like a champ now. Pretty sad we have to drill out holes on brand knew stihl bars.
Great vid, did that mod to my lightbars and it made a difference!
Not going to read all the comments, but my first thought was did you turn your oiler to max flow? I have a 20” light on a 400, 24” light on a 462 and a 32” light on a 661 and don’t have hot spots on any of them. The first thing I do to any saw is turn up the oilers. The new big stihls also have the pin that needs to be depressed to get the extra 1/8 turn on the oiler screw. Those light bars are spendy so I’d be pissed if it got burned straight away.
I haven’t had a problem except once with this type of bar. The hole was partially plugged. Took it off and used a wire to clean it out. Then it was fine.
I run 36" bars and the small holes are not a problem. They are designed that way to help with them not plugging up with saw dust/chips.
Well I'm so happy you've never had a problem. For me after 26 years.. it's a problem. They don't work the way the old design used to. Sorry.
@@gregcjdr I found, for my applications the big hole gets plugged up worse. My tsumara bars all have the big hole and I'm always having to unplug it. I find the Oregon and sthil small, slanted bars stay cleaner, longer. As long as the oiler is cranked. Which running bars no shorter then 32, they are always turned up to the max.
Did you try turning up the Oiler? I run all my oilers wide open not sure on the 500 but sometimes you have to drive a pin down to get them to adjust fully
make sure your oiling holes in the bar is not clogged adn that where the face where the bar rests on is also clean.. may also need to turn your oiler up
Many bars have had holes like that for years. You have other issues if your chain was bone dry. Push the pin in and crank that oiler up.
I have no issues. The saw oils nicely since I went back to the old design holes
Hi I really can’t remember. It would have been a metric size being in the uk. I’ve also knocked the pin in on the oil adjuster which gave me another fraction of a turn to max. The guy in the video said 9/64 and I would have gone close in metric. Hope that helps. It’s been fine since I felled 1000 trees last year probably 40% with 25 in bar.
Was it oiling with standard bar.
I don’t understand why they are restricting the oil so much. A friend of mine has to run winter oil year round because his ms291 is not adjustable. It would not put oil out even with the bar removed
Excellent advice, thanks
in Oz, only small mount stihl bars aren't. 063, never had an oiling problem
Good work, thanks for the info
Been running a 500i for almost 2 years and used it for milling too with a variety of bars and never had this problem . I can't see much different in what you have been doing but your video is only discussion not demonstration. Have you turned up the oil flow at all? I did to suit the job. It is set to minimum from factory btw.
I’m a little late to the party but thank you for the info!
I don’t know if the 500i has a limiter pin preventing the oil flow screw from being turned fully like on the MS 661-C. I used the point of a round file and a block of wood to push mine in. Hope this helps
Hello Thomas. Yes the 500i does he have a limiting pin. But quite honestly there's just no need to push it down after this modification. I just cut a 40 inch diameter tree and sectioned the whole thing to 18 inch pieces without a single issue. Thank you for the reply however.
The new 462 have the same pin I punched mine out its oil and great do the 500is have that pin also
@@br-dj2ti hello. Thanks for joining. Yes the 500i does have that same pain but I found it unnecessary to modify it. The saw oils excellently when the bar is converted to the old style oiling hole.
@@gregcjdr thanks so much Can you do a video on tunein chainsaws that are custom high and low
Thank you for your 500i bar discussion and reviews. I'd be curious if a 20" bar would allow a switch from a 7 to an 8 pin chain ring for faster cutting.
I too was thinking about 500i with 25" bar and possibly .404 chain for trail work. The reason for the .404 chain is its much longer service life between sharpening when working close to the ground compared to 3/8th .375 chain. Working close to the ground with wood that has been on the ground for an extended period of time meaning it is dirty with splatter and bucking it into double length rounds for removal.
I was disappointed when I picked up a 500i with a 28" bar at how unbalanced and heavy it felt. The 25" is probably a bit better, but not nimble. In our area, Indiana, most of the downed trees needing removal are ash trees killed by the boring beetle. Lots and lots of dead standing ash trees still here! A 20" bar is little short for the larger trees, but the 25" likely makes the saw a more trouble to use for most cutting situations.
Because of your videos I much more inclined to go with the 20" bar on the 500i. I think it might be better to have a 22" bar, but that appears to be uncommon. I'm proficient with a chainsaw cutting enough to do strategic cutting of a log to best fit the saw and finishing up by having to cut from the other side of the log for the exceptional situation is no brainer in exchange for having a much better handling saw.
Now for the occasional milling, having a long bar that that is a few inches longer than the cut is very desirable and for that if the saw will take it going bigger is better. Ripping chain is has less active cutters than even a skip chain. Ripping chain typically has full complement cutter spacing, but half the cutters have been shaved off to just cut the edges of the kerf. Im hoping a 32" bar on a 500i with ripping chain would work fine with the saw. Ripping chain can do cross cutting, but it is about half as fast as a traditional cross cut chain. So if there is the rare occasion I want a very smooth cross cut I could still put on the 32" bar with ripping chain and cut a cookie off the previous cut log to get an absolutely clean looking cut. I wouldn't plan to have a stock of regular cross cut 32" bar length chains, well maybe one, but I'd like have 3 ripping chains for it.
I hand file my 3/8" chains with a gangbridge file jig, but with a chain holder on a shop vise. I wish the chain holder would allow closing the rails to grip the chain guides to firm up the cutters for filing. I made it chain holder myself from a couple of pieces of 1/8" low carbon steel a couple of quarter coins in-between the steel for spacing. I then had to drill a hole in one of the pieces for the gangbridge file jig to fit its clamp on screw through to the other side piece of metal because clamping down on the outside of the metal piece caused it to close the gap needed for holding the chain. The file jig has screw camps for holding down on the chain and I loosen and tighten one side of these for each cutter being sharpened to hold the cutters as still as possible for the file. This saw chain sharpening setup has provided years of well sharpened chains. From cleaning the chains to happening and then light cleaning it takes about 25 minutes per chain that fit a 17" bar. They then sit in a tube of bar oil till needed on the saw. I hang the chains and let them drip excess oil back into the tube when getting ready to fit them on the saw.
Funny, I dip all my chains in oil and hang them after sharpening as well. I do way too much cutting to be sharpened by hand however, So I bought An electric chain sharpener with an automatic chain clamp every time you draw the head down. Soon as you let iet up it releases so you can Glide the next cutter head into yhe exact position that the previous ones were. Each cutterhead is exactly the same, And this machine allows me to be completely consistent as I vary the cutter head angle for the various power that each of the different powerheads have.
I was really surprised to read that you like running a 20" bar on a 500i. I Wasn't as surprised you found the 28th inch to be a little nose heavy. Let me promise you...The 500i with the 28" lightweight bar is extremely balanced. You wouldn't believe the difference it makes. I run a 32" lightweight bar on my 661. But as for your 500i with a 20" bar, I kind of just see that as overkill. If you can accomplish your work with that 20" bar you probably could have done with the 362. The 362 is still a pro line saw and has every bit the power you need for a 20" bar. I run a sandard 20" Rolllomatic ES on my 362. The 362 is lighter and has tons of power for a saw its size! I love it! And if a 20" bar is all you need then you would love it too.
@@gregcjdr I'll check out a 500i with a light weight 25" bar to see if it feels balanced if ai can. I'll suggest my local dealer have one on display. I took it that you were running a 20" bar on a 500i.
I've debated about going to a more automated chain sharpener. I use chainsaws for clearing downed wood, occasionally larger brush removal. Once in a great while I fell trees. Typically I use two chains in a session with another one in waiting as a spare. I hope to get at least one tank of fuel per chain sharpening or about 25 minutes of cutting and it takes about 25 minutes to clean and sharpen a chain without touching the depth gauges. If I take the depths gauges down it's like another sharpening as far as time and effort goes increasing the time to 45 minutes. I only do depths gauges 2 to 3 times in a 3/8ths Stihl RS chain's cutter life.
The Gangbridge file jig once you've gotten a few sharpening experiences produced the best cutting chain in Project Farms chainsaw sharpening videos and when I used that technique on a Club's saw I was wanting to join the person came back to me and said he'd never had that saw cut anything like that good. It may have helped me get into the club :-). Thank you for the video.
@@gregcjdr so on a 462 c-m...would you run a lightweight bar @ 20"
@@harryharry3193 no as I said I run a 20-inch on my 3602
362
My 28 bar on my 461 doesn't oil like my 290 or 170. It barely has oil at tip when u rev it to see if it throws oil. I too thought that hole is different. My oil tank is bout empty when gas is but chain seems dryish I have thought bout doing same mod now I'm doing it for sure. Are u running out of oil to early any?
No, I can't say that I am running out of oil early. If you are it is possible that your oil hole on the bar is plugged with sawdust Maybe? Clean that out thoroughly and then use a Groove cleaning hook to pull all the gunk out of the bar Groove then clean those oiling holes with a spray brake cleaner and then re lubricate. The solution of drilling the bar has worked wonders for me however back to the old style in the old sizes that the older bars used to have. Just bought a new 32-inch light weight bar for 661 and modified it. I couldn't be happier with the results on all 5 of my saws. And I have never had to push down the oil limiting Peg either on any of them. I simply turn the Oilers to maximum and with this Drilling modification everything's great.
@@gregcjdr yeah I drilled mine out and oils great now. Yeah I always tried keeping holes clean and bar but I think that hole so small it clogs easy and restricts flow. Thanks for video glad I did it.
Interesting ,, Mine binds up when using an 8 tooth ,, Have you had that problem ?
Hmmm.. that's an interesting question.
@@gregcjdr I drill the oil feed hole out... New ones are tiny '' Sorted it for me...
a well ported 661 is a game changer
Just picked up my MS500i today. Ordering a light weight es 20” bar. Your opinion on a 20” ES light weight on the ms 500 i?
There is a lot to be said for using a smaller bar when that is all that is necessary. For example let's say you're cutting in to sections a 16 inch round tree. Would we really need or want a 28 inch bar? All that's going to do is get in your way and increase the opportunity for Kickback if the nose of the bar should hit another section of the tree. As you know the longer bar more likely that is to happen.. so here's my advice and recommendation to you that you asked for: go ahead and buy the 20 inch bar but you really don't need a 500i if all you're running is a 20 inch bar. So also order the 25 inch or 28 inch bar and have it on hand. You'll be glad you did. I have a 20 inch in my truck as well but I have it mounted to a 362C. And the 362c is all that's needed to pull that 20 in chain. So that's why I said you really don't need a 500i if all you're running is a 20" bar. So buy the small bar for ease of use and safety for the small stuff but make sure you buy a bigger one also so that you can use the saws potential. Thanks
@@gregcjdr Great info... Thanks, Greg. I already have the MS500i so hopefully it will be a lifelong machine for me. Good advice about keeping a longer bar as well... 28 or maybe a 32. I thought these saws were supposed to come stock with a light ES bar but this one did not. I’m going to call Stihl USA to find out why.
@@bertraminc9412 you know you're right! They were initially advertised as coming with the lightweight bar included. But when steel USA received its second shipment of four hundred 500i saws for distribution to its dealers, that changed. My friend who owns four hardware stores and sells a ton of Stihll product informed me of that change only recently. So yes, now you have to specify that you want a lightweight bar. I wonder if they did that to keep the MSRP down. But I really do like this lightweight bar and put one on my brand new 362 as well.
@@gregcjdr Wow, you’re a good information source! Now I don’t have to call Stihl! The dealer is friendly and has one on order and they are going to swap it out no charge for me. Thanks again!
Hey just let you know this bar I got the 28 in a couple of months ago and on this one that has the original big hole actually I think it's a little bit bigger now so that was nice of them to start drilling up maybe they had so many complaints I know I run a 32 inch sometimes I have to slow down a little oil now lol
The bar is not the problem. The oiler screw from the factory is not turned all the way up. There’s a roll pin next to the oiler. Take a punch and punch the roll pin down about a quarter inch or until flush then and only then can u can FULL adjustment outta ur oiler bud.
Hi thanks for your comments. In my case however, the bar was definitely the problem. Dry pulpy wood created a much finer, dustier discharge that was blocking those holes before I drilled them. They would plug up very easily. No more problems.
@@gregcjdr yes, but did you adjust the oiler before doing this
@@londonlondon8861 Hello. Yes of course.
I modify all my bars this way. Oil is cheaper than a new bar!
When I run light bars I just turn the oiler up a 1/4 turn and it doesn’t do that
How many mm Hole did yoy drill vh Stian 😊 iwant to do the same
Gotta HOG the oil hole out I had the same problem I was PISSED chain was DRY!
good luck bro ..
Thank you. It works perfectly now. I also did the same to the bar on our new 362 and the new lightweight 32 inch bar for the 661. All work perfectly without having to punch out the oil limiting peg. Don't know why they ever moved to this design from the old design.
That bar with a larger hole is a older style bar. Even the new solid bars are that way.
Very true. Yes I realize that. I should have been more clear in the video but yes you're absolutely correct.
@@gregcjdr as the saying goes “ they don’t make them like they used to”
@@skrrtrolling9573 I was told they did that to reduce the amount of oil being used. Now on one hand I think it was a great idea in theory to drill the oil hole in an angle because almost like a suction it was angled toward the direction of the chain movement and you would think it would pull the oil in more effectively. But in reality that hole is too damn small and it brought in or drew in ultra fine dust particles that plug the hole. That's been my experience. Since drilling out the bar in my 500 I and the lightweight bar on my new 362 that I picked up about 2 weeks ago, they both oil like a million dollars. And I see absolutely no need to ever punch out the oil limiter pin. There's plenty of oil now.
@@gregcjdr I’ve noticed a more dry chain then I prefer on longer bars like 32-42” I did open them all up already for the same reasons.
I wonder if it’s for sales of the diff bar oils they offer as some are a fair amount thinner
The good question I don't know the answer. I was told it was because of environmental concerns and cutting down the amount of oil used and left in the environment. Look... as far as I'm concerned I'm not about to be burning up chains so I'll drill every single one from this point out to the old style. You know I never ever ever had a problem in 24 years with that old style oil hole. Never had a problem until I encountered this new design on my new saws. You see I never went in for the lightweight bars so I had not encountered this issue and all the bars I have, and I have dozens of them and they're in great shape, so I hadn't bought a bar in a long long time. This was my introduction to this problem. So when in your opinion did they start with this new design? Any idea?
👍👍 bagus bos
Had to the same to my ms400 25 inch bar it was not oiling
The only reason why it was dried up is because the oiler hole on the bar was plugged up or and some wood chips
On it that probably came out when you
Took off the cover that’s the reason
Hello Ethan. I don't disagree with you. My point is it shouldn't happen so easily and I've never had this issue happen so easily with the older style drill holes on the bars I had been using for 24 plus years. I now I have 3 lightweight bars for the various saws and I drilled all of them to the same size as the old bar design specification and I've had no further issues. But yes. I agree with you.
The MS500I has been in the state since late last year if you knew the right dealer. The oiler on all new Stihl saws is set to about 1/2-3/4 flow, Set it to max flow and you shouldnt have any issues. Also, the angled oiler hole is normal and works fine if your oiler is turned up.
Yes the oiler is set to maximum and that is interesting what you said about the 500i. That was certainly not our experience or information. Thanks.
@@gregcjdr the 500i has a pin like the 661 you punch and it gives extra oil
ive had mine since may 1 of 2019
you can check my youtube channel there is videos of that
Dallas. Hello, I am happy to read your reply. That is 2 people now who have said these saws were available earlier...and I believe you! But I have to say I'm seriously disappointed with the rep for the NW Indiana area after learning this. EVERYTIME we called they said the song was not available in America yet and we called every one to two weeks since February! The only reason we got this one it's because we bug them so much and because Kevin, my friend who owns four True Value hardware stores, ordered his entire fall inventory at the same time and that's the only reason we got this saw. Seriously disappointed in Stihl's rep right now. Yes the oiler was turned all the way up and yes I know about the pin. I didn't mention in the video but I've been doing this for 24 years now but not trying to impress anyone. The fact was with the oiler turned all the way up that chain was bone dry running hard in the bar. Another thing I incorrectly said in the video was that I had cut the tree up. Actually all I did was dropped the tree at about 18 inches off the ground and then went back about 2 inches above the ground cut it level. So only after two cuts I had this issue. And I would like everyone to know that after drilling it out like any of the other Stihl bars it works perfectly now. Thank you for the info.
@@gregcjdr I run a 36in bar on my MS500 and it oils no problem. I think your oiler may be plugged
@@thirdstreettito Hello Brad. Thanks for joining in. Yeah, the saw power head itself oils magnificently actually. Just my personal opinion but I feel the oiling holes in these lightweight bars are too small. Since I converted it to be exactly like the solid steel bars.. it is outstanding! Many of you guys probably already knew this but this was the first time in 24 years that I've ever used a lightweight bar and I did not notice the size of these oil holes in the beginning. I suppose I was always of the opinion the lightweight bars would not be as durable as the solid bars, but I'm sure I was wrong. I guess I'll see . I absolutely love this saw now. By the way I'm wondering what part of the country do you live in where this saws was available so much earlier?
If you have numbers, include on video, for example weights of the various bars, with chains, since we can look up the bars alone online. Also, one thing to consider when bucking, your torso weighs something, likely more than any length of bar. When you bend over with a short bar, your body is working hard to support the weight of your off-center-balance torso. With a longer bar, you don't bend over as much, if at all. You just have to learn to know where your tip is, or just cut 3/4 or 7/8 through and roll to finish. It's pretty fast to get used to it and you'll love your increased endurance as a result while hating yourself for not making the change earlier in life. I'd much rather carry a longer bar, especially a light model, than a bent over torso when bucking. Save your short bars for in-tree work or limbing stuff that's well off the ground where you don't have to bend over. With the 500i, I cut mostly PA, OH, and WV hardwoods such as red or pin oak, ash, shagbark hickory, beech, black locust, sycamore, poplar, fruit trees, soft maple, etc. and haven't had trouble with oiling on usually a 25 or 36 inch bar including that angled hole. I use other sizes with other smaller saws, but the 500i oils well with the two aforementioned sizes that I use. Thanks for posting the video.
I just had the exact same thing happen to me on my 32 inch light weight bar. I was red
The drive links are .63 on 28inch not .50 make sure u have the right size chain
Yes sir! 50 gauge bar and chain. Thank you for your input appreciate you
Been doin that for awhile on all new bars
Zero problems here?
If the oil was running in proportion with the gas Where was it going if not on the chain.. And if bigger hole makes it oil the chain better then oil will no longer run in proportion with gas.. but that's Stihl for ya
Try turning your oil adjustments screw up.
nice bars but definitely not worth 2.9lbs of gold lol
They said it supposed to us 50%less oil read the manual
The manual? Gee why didn't I think of that? The point of this video was to express MY OPINION that the bar oiling is insufficient even with the Saw Oiler pegged to maximum. These chains are now very well lubricated. You really think I care about saving a certain percentage of oil and burning up a bar or a chain? I don't. But thanks for pointing me to the manual
500i does not have the torque
I appreciate your comment but I would have to respectfully disagree.
Greg C 👍
Can't see nothing you to shaky
I get your point, potentially a good. catch. But that camerawork ... are you trying to induce seizures? Phone 'tripods are cheap'. And if you have that saw, you have a bench.
No! Hopefully no seizures. And no I don't have a tripod I'm not into this UA-cam all that heavily. Saw something important and wanted to put it out there for people. Don't let the message get lost and the fact that I'm trying to hold the camera with one hand while demonstrating with the other. If it's a problem for you please step off the channel.
In
I just bought a brand new 500i with a 32 inch Stihl lightweight bar and I'm having the same issues even after tapping the roll pin in and turning the oil pump to max so yeah I'm quite pissed myself and I'm going into my dealer monday and gonna get them to swap out the bar with a better one.
Mike. Make sure they have a qualified technician. And make sure he checks the oil output from the pump.
@@gregcjdr yeah he is a qualified technician and he ended up drilling the bar oil ports out he doesn't understand why they made them like that he said probably to try and not use as much bar oil but definitely a design flaw other than that I really like the lightweight bar. Thanks for responding!
I drill out all my bars like that's...works way better..good looking out..👍🏻🤘🏻🪓