Not a lot of people understand how to properly care for a differential let alone rebuild one. Good job man. I would like to give just a couple of pointers in a few areas, just to help out and spread knowledge, especially since it seems like you will service/re-build a diff in the future. So, if you havent figured out or wondered if..... I do this for a living 5 days a week, 40+ hours/week. By no means am i trying to gloat, brag, or imply i know it all b/c that is so far from the truth. I will say though, of the four people i have learned the driveline from, including my current boss, are old school, legit, the best of the best when it comes to the drivetrain (Diff(s), t-case, and driveshaft). So, to the point. Here is what I Suggest... 1. 9.5 times out of 10, when you do a carrier change as you did, the OE shims when replaced where they came from will indeed be wrong (the backlash tolerence is too high), instead of trying to build a stack of shims that came in your bearing kit, simply switch your OE shims. Put the passenger side shim to the driver side and the driver to the pass. Legit 99.5% of the time, you will be within the 6-10 thousandths range. That goes for any diff and especially the GM 8.5" 10 bolt. 2. When putting on the new bearings.. i love seeing how attentive you were to seating the bearings all the way and never tossing your old parts until you were done. Let me suggest when putting on the new beaing on your new or even old carrier, keep the new bearing and new race together, lay a piece of flat stock over those while the new bearing/race combo are just set in place. make sure your centered and using a press, start the bearing on. When you just have it started grab your old race and flip it upside down on your new race, flat stock back on and finish the job. I hope this tad bit makes sense and hopefully helps at least somebody, if not, it kept me busy. Keep making the videos man good to see that still. Good Luck!
Thank you for the video, this confirms this job is way beyond my tool capacity and work area. Your video is the first Ive seen of many that actually explains how in-depth this job really is, and the importance of getting it just right.
@@warrenstone8538 rings the same size, just bigger carrier bearings on the 625 same procedure tho. Heat up the new bearings on the stove or in the oven if you don't have a press.
So... You held the camera while you pushed in on the axle, the C-clip drops out, and you catch it on video. Legend. Nice work, and great explaining. Thank you
This is a lot more realistic. I hate these build videos where everything goes super easy. It’s way more realistic when everything goes to shit and you don’t have 250k of tools
You mean the build videos where they go “ok so we got the rear end out and sent over to our buddies at precision rear ends”. Then it cuts to the next day and they go “ok so we just got our rear end back from our buddies at precision rear ends and they did a amazing job setting it up so let’s get it back in the car”
Awesome video! I love how you step through the entire process, errors, workarounds, corrections, and all showing us what to do and what not to do and why. again, thank you! Note to self: purchase magnetic retrieval tool
I work with a company within another company that rebuilds rear ends. I've recently been moved to differential building and it's pretty precise work. We actually get the parts from Yukon. I recognized that box. Lol
You mentioned locking plate around 11:15. I took the pin out that holds the spider gears . Well i done that to get the c clips out and i beat on the axle shaft with a hammer to get the c clip out, wish i havent. The locking plate that holds the springs, locking plate worked its way out of place including the spider gears. Im guessing when i was turning the tire or hitting on the axle it knocked them out of place.. Do you have any idea how to get the gears and locking plate back in place? So i can stick the pin back through. The carrier is still in casing
Every truck ive ever got i went through the axle and if i didnt like the ratio id go up or down in size (usually up) since i run big tires and ive gotten decent at setting them up but for some reason when i watch videos like this i get nervous lol idk why....oh well good video brother
Ditto on Mr. Scott comments. Under my old pecan tree I will not have any pressing tools, so I will be heating up the old Dutch oven, I needs oil up any way....BR549, Deer Park Texas
My c10 was sitting for 20 years before I got it and the differential oil was the consistency of jello. I used a torch on the pinion to take it out and it fell right out
I'm learning from you I might take mines out this like my 3rd time watching n I know I about to replaying this video at least 10 more times so I can tell myself that maybe can do it myself and save money
Love the vid brother very helpful..im a mechanic and you may laugh but ive never rebuilt a rear .i have a 2000 Silverado 1500. It started making a clunk metal like noise when i back up and then take off in drive.i can definitely hear noise when im slowing down and i fear its the diff carrier bearings .when im on the throttle it wont make noise.just looking for a second opinion before i jump right in.
Just picked up my Chevy 84 K5 Blazer from the shop. Needs a rear end rebuild. Is most common that it just needs new bearing kit if the shaft Is moving around? It's not making any noise, just has some play in it.
Hi. My Silverado 99 has the same differential. My question Is, can i Fit a gear 4.51 or 4.56 in that differential? Or do i have to change complete the differential?
My 69 Firebird has 3:91’s and is NOT a freeway car due to the low gears . So I pondered to see what it takes for me to do gear set swap. After watching this video, realized I’m out of my league to attempt this task. Looks like time to locate a shop to do this for me.
@@uglymechanics6599 Thx, That’s not to far from what costs I expected to have shop do this for me. Iv’e pondered maybe find another used complete housing setup w the gears I want and swap it rather then redo My center piece.
Just so EVERYONE knows, the Carrier in NOT the diff, the Carrier is the cast iron center section that the bearing caps bolt to. The differential case is what the ring gear bolts to, whether it's a locker or an open diff, which is what this axle contains.
What if you have to replace the ring and pinion? can you swap the shim to the new pinion? I have a `91 Silverado with 300,000 miles on it, still going strong but I think a tooth is chipped one one or both gears. Every now and then it feels like a skip and grab in the rear.
Yes, you can put the shims in the same location of the same size and it will generally get you close. But the BEST practice is to have a sacrificial setup bearing, so you can shim and check it before final install. Every single ring & pinion gear ever made will have very slight differences, even one from the same day from the same factory. You just have to stack the odds in your favor as much as you can and see if the cards play out.
Hello and thanks for your video. I'm installing a used carrier on my differential case I plan on re using my old ring bearings and pinion bearing since they are match together and I dont have to mess with crush sleeves etc.. my question is do i still have to check the back lash and paint the ring gear with the yellow paint to check the contact of the pinion with the ring gear??
Would you have to check the lash if you where to only change the ring and pinion gears put shims back in same place? My rear end is all new about 2000 miles ago but the 3.73 needs to be replaced with 4.11. Wonder if races and stuff could stay too? Hope I didn't make this sound confusing. Thanks for input
Thanks for this video! I understood it all except for when to install the crush sleeve. After reading the comments, I guess it's after you have the backlash set, right? I've never done this before but after watching your video a couple times I'm ready to try it! I appreciate the help, and the video was very good and funny too!
ok pressing the race in on the bearings was wrong after you break the bearings apart use the inner race its exactly the same size as the old one it will seat it perfectly and as for the shims on the pinion gear it was way to far in you definitely needed to shim the pinion out more. How long did it last?
I learned years ago that the only way to make sure the gear would last is to buy a pinion depth gauge and set it within one thousandth of the spec stamped on the face of the pinion.
Yep, that wear pattern on the pinion wasn't good. Pinion was way to far in. I was wondering the same thing when he said time to button it up and add fluid and we're done. I said to myself, uhhhhhhh, noooo! LOL!
Hello Tinman, I have 1995 GMC Surburban Truck 2500, 4x4, 7.4L, My Rear end is OK for now, it has 249 Miles, Can I replace Rear Axel With Newer That has disc brakes, Thanks Doug
Pinion seal is pretty simple. Lube it up & tap it in with something big and flat. Crush sleeve just gets put in place and then tightened down, essentially. If you order your rebuild components from Yukon Gear & Axle they all come with basic instructions.
I wouldn't be surprised if their is. But it would be a rarity. You'd have to reach out to someone more knowledgeable about rear diff history to get that answered
@@Tinman2Kustoms Years ago I bought a 3.70 ring and pinion set from Performance Automotive Wholesale (PAW) for my 1973 Chevy. Took it to the dealer to have it installed. The installer told be that my car had a 12 bolt carrier with 10 bolt cover. I stopped the install and still have the set. That was decades ago. The car is long gone.
A pinion bearing I like $20.°°. It's worth it to have an extra to destroy during setup. If you had gotten a new ring gear would you have used the old bolts?
The last pinion bearing I bought from O'Reilly was $90... But yes, sometimes it's worth it. And I've also used old bolts for new gears. Sometimes you do what you gotta do to get it done. That's realistic car building.
For me heating the bearing didn't get it large enough to slip it on. I actually had to FREEZE the carrier in the fridge for a few hours and then the combination of expanded hot bearing and contracted cold carrier let it slip right on.
So this is like rebuilding a Colorado rear end? Also I have a question really hoping you could answer it so my rear end I know is shot everytime I shift it it does do a little clunk and sometimes when I give it gas in drive it wont move just high revs and sometimes will move if u hold it at high rpms my question is is it the rear end only or could it be my transmission to really hoping it's not the transmission 😭
Just putting in a Yukon carrier just like the one in the video in my 06 YukonXl I had a question about how tight is too tight for the shims when putting the new carrier back in the rear end I am having trouble removing the carrier back out am thinking they are too tight? Great video by the way have been watching it repeatedly my factory gm Gov lock assembly completely blew apart to use a grinder to cut pieces out to remove it just to get to the c clips to remove the axles
@@Tinman2Kustoms thanks alot appreciate the quick response got the backlash set everything torqued to spec. Getting ready to put diff cover on now its 11:25pm here near Chicago pulled my hair for lil while before finally got it figured out lol. Do you know if they have a c clip eliminator kit for a 06 YukonXl slt haven't found nothing yet
Hello so I have a 95 tahoe 4x4 and now its doing a clicking noise on the rear differential would I be able to use the same parts if I take it apart and see the bearings?
He put the pinion adjustment on the back burner by using the torch to get everyone's attention . Im curious to see how he held the pinion from rotating while crushing the sleeve. That's the part of the video i was waiting for .
I don't remember if I mentioned it or went into it much. But get the fucker pretty much as you can possibly get it with a 6ft pipe on your breaker bar and someone else or the weight of something heavy holding the yoke stationary with a pipe wrench. Checking occasionally with the weighted basket or torque wrench. It's kind of hard to explain.
my fill plug is seized in my rear end. I took the cover off drained oil. do u think it will catch fire if I heat drain plug up with a torch. I sprayed inside with gunk to get some old oil out, but gunk is petroleum based. I really dont want to spray water on the gears.
I bought a Eaton tru-trac LSD. I bought the carrier bearing that they suggest they will go on the Diff ok but are to big for the journal in the Diff housing. I'm sure it's a stock rear end ? any suggestions?
What is the problem if your cap bolts lock up the carrier when they are tight, if i loosen the cap bolts the carrier turns easy but tight it will not turn even with the drive shaft taken out?
frits duwel you can use any off-the-shelf rear gear lube. Usually about a 90-130w or somewhere around there. Yukon gear & axle recommends 1-2 bottles of their positraction friction modifier additive as well, depending on the size of the axle. I used 1.5 bottles of the additive/modifier in this one
Tinman 2 Kustoms I understand you use the 15 inch lbs setup to check your bearing load, but how did you actually torque the pinion nut down? Just use a impact gun? Or use a torque wrench to a certain point, check load, torque, check load? Thanks
@@joshuakeith8710 I get it started with an impact. Then use a big breaker bar/Chester pipe and a big pipe wrench holding the pinion In place while tightening the nut. Usually a 2 person Job. Then pull off the tools and check the pinion spinning resistance, and repeat the process like 10-15 times or until it's right.
Question, I have a 1969 10 bolt that is an OEM safe-t-trac unit. It doesn’t seem like a real locker "both wheels" grip good when power is put to it. Perhaps I misunderstand the type of unit, as I was under the impression it is a locker type . I am familiar with Food 9 inch locker are POSI under all conditions and power. So, is this unit you used an Upgrade better design, then the stock factory piece? I’ll never exceed 450RWHP on street tires, so brutal harsh condition are not a real factor. Or is there parts to beef sup my existing 10 bolt.
Hey great video. Also in Minnesota myself but reaching out to see if you can give me some pointer. My rear axle in my tahoe has a broken breather vent and was wondering how I can get it out or if the rear end is bad now any help would be great thanks.
A tip Save the old pinion bearing if possable, then hone the i.d. a few thou oversize to make a set-up bearing that slides on and off easily. This makes shimming the pinion a piece of cake.
my dad has a 1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe and the rear axle fucked up. the axle came out when he was driving and we could not figure out what holds the axle in. thanks so much
@@danielhuerta6575 Yukon is probably the most trusted brand name in the automotive market for aftermarket axle parts. I would probably stay away from that driveline shop. I've never once had a problem with any of their products. Some people don't like the prices, so that shop probably can't gouge his customers as much with Yukon, so that's why he doesn't like them.
A setup bearing is essentially a removable pinion bearing that can exactly replicate the final bearing to be used. So you can assemble and disassemble multiple times to adjust the pinion depth. Buy 2 pinion bearings. Buy a a carbide bit. Open up the bearing just barely enough to where it'll slide on and off of the pinion with a little encouragement-but not too much. Then you can mesh the gears with the paint and determine if it needs to be spaced up more or shims removed.
I'm no mechanic but I do know physics, and you certainly DO need to include the weight of the wrench in that torque calculation. What you're calling 15 in-lb is probably more like 30! (assuming the wrench weighs around 2 pounds). In fact just use the wrench by itself and you'll be pretty close to 15.
makers of that tool know that and actually account for that. so, 15in/lbs on a nice $500 snap-on torque wrench wont be a true 15 in/lbs but based on the weight of that wrench, and even the length (the nice ones have a very specific area to plce you hand at to use the tool), when the tool is used properly the proper force will be reached. so you maybe just exerting 8in/lbs of force at your hand/handle of the tool, that nut will be getting the 15in/lbs bc everything else is accounted for. which is why its worth the $$.
Depends what's bad inside, the quality of parts you want, the application, and if you're paying someone to do it or doing it yourself. Anywhere from $200-$10,000
I think it was 60ft lbs. It gave all the torque specs in the instruction book that came with the Yukon Locker. Or can be googled easily. "gm 8.5" axle main cap torque spec"
I can’t get my diff. out. I got everything off/out (except for the pinion, obviously) but the diff. won’t come out and it’s supposed to just lift out. I’m not sure why it won’t budge
joseph lacy hmm, I've never seen that on an axle before. You'd think the pinion nut and washer, along with the main seal would be enough. Always has been for me in the past anyways!
Not a lot of people understand how to properly care for a differential let alone rebuild one. Good job man. I would like to give just a couple of pointers in a few areas, just to help out and spread knowledge, especially since it seems like you will service/re-build a diff in the future.
So, if you havent figured out or wondered if..... I do this for a living 5 days a week, 40+ hours/week. By no means am i trying to gloat, brag, or imply i know it all b/c that is so far from the truth. I will say though, of the four people i have learned the driveline from, including my current boss, are old school, legit, the best of the best when it comes to the drivetrain (Diff(s), t-case, and driveshaft).
So, to the point. Here is what I Suggest...
1. 9.5 times out of 10, when you do a carrier change as you did, the OE shims when replaced where they came from will indeed be wrong (the backlash tolerence is too high), instead of trying to build a stack of shims that came in your bearing kit, simply switch your OE shims. Put the passenger side shim to the driver side and the driver to the pass. Legit 99.5% of the time, you will be within the 6-10 thousandths range. That goes for any diff and especially the GM 8.5" 10 bolt.
2. When putting on the new bearings.. i love seeing how attentive you were to seating the bearings all the way and never tossing your old parts until you were done. Let me suggest when putting on the new beaing on your new or even old carrier, keep the new bearing and new race together, lay a piece of flat stock over those while the new bearing/race combo are just set in place. make sure your centered and using a press, start the bearing on. When you just have it started grab your old race and flip it upside down on your new race, flat stock back on and finish the job.
I hope this tad bit makes sense and hopefully helps at least somebody, if not, it kept me busy. Keep making the videos man good to see that still. Good Luck!
thanks alot for this extra tip. you need more likes, not many people willing to type of so much knowledge 🫡
Thank you for the video, this confirms this job is way beyond my tool capacity and work area. Your video is the first Ive seen of many that actually explains how in-depth this job really is, and the importance of getting it just right.
Absolutely, it is a fairly substantial job to do correctly
Great video/walkthrough Luke! On a side note, we may have to see about getting you some Yukon branded crocs...
Yukon Gear & Axle haha! that would be something!!! thanks for the complement
yukon crocs and cummins socks? www.dieselpowerplusstore.com/sites/default/files/sticker_1.jpg
fuck. I should. lol
I have an 8.6 is everything the same as an 8.5 other than the ring diameter?
@@warrenstone8538 rings the same size, just bigger carrier bearings on the 625 same procedure tho. Heat up the new bearings on the stove or in the oven if you don't have a press.
Bless you !!! This video is great you show the real deal raw stuff that all of us regular people would experience. Subscribed!
Thank you for the kind words and following :)
Ran across this video on accident. Looking for vids on a newer axle but I just learned something extra quick today. Great format and editing bro
So... You held the camera while you pushed in on the axle, the C-clip drops out, and you catch it on video. Legend. Nice work, and great explaining. Thank you
Lol thanks man. Everyone gets lucky once in a while I guess :P glad the video was helpful!
This is a lot more realistic. I hate these build videos where everything goes super easy. It’s way more realistic when everything goes to shit and you don’t have 250k of tools
Scott Dewart thanks for the positive comment! I agree, realistic is way better to see than the "perfect scenario" style videos out there.
I agree Mr. Scott.....BR549 Deer Park Texas
You mean the build videos where they go “ok so we got the rear end out and sent over to our buddies at precision rear ends”.
Then it cuts to the next day and they go “ok so we just got our rear end back from our buddies at precision rear ends and they did a amazing job setting it up so let’s get it back in the car”
Awesome video! I love how you step through the entire process, errors, workarounds, corrections, and all showing us what to do and what not to do and why. again, thank you! Note to self: purchase magnetic retrieval tool
I work with a company within another company that rebuilds rear ends. I've recently been moved to differential building and it's pretty precise work. We actually get the parts from Yukon. I recognized that box. Lol
You mentioned locking plate around 11:15. I took the pin out that holds the spider gears . Well i done that to get the c clips out and i beat on the axle shaft with a hammer to get the c clip out, wish i havent. The locking plate that holds the springs, locking plate worked its way out of place including the spider gears. Im guessing when i was turning the tire or hitting on the axle it knocked them out of place.. Do you have any idea how to get the gears and locking plate back in place? So i can stick the pin back through. The carrier is still in casing
Every truck ive ever got i went through the axle and if i didnt like the ratio id go up or down in size (usually up) since i run big tires and ive gotten decent at setting them up but for some reason when i watch videos like this i get nervous lol idk why....oh well good video brother
Ditto on Mr. Scott comments. Under my old pecan tree I will not have any pressing tools, so I will be heating up the old Dutch oven, I needs oil up any way....BR549, Deer Park Texas
Great video. A lot of info in a concise time frame.
Thank you, that's what I was going for!
At 6:15 - "this is basically what I use all day"
Oh, you're a welder! That's cool. 😎
Lmao 🤣 more for metal fab stuff, but yeah grinding welds a lot too lol
I just watched this whole video and I’m not even trying to rebuild my rear end. Good info though, entertaining as well.
Hey thanks for the compliment, glad it wasn't super boring! Lol
Great job on the part numbers and not leaving any detail behind 👍🏼
Thanks much! Hope it helps!
Yes that is a good thing to get my truck back in running condition.
good video man, thanks for sharing.
oxyacetylene = liquify metal
map gas = heat up metal.
Great video! We use Yukon parts too!
My c10 was sitting for 20 years before I got it and the differential oil was the consistency of jello. I used a torch on the pinion to take it out and it fell right out
I'm learning from you I might take mines out this like my 3rd time watching n I know I about to replaying this video at least 10 more times so I can tell myself that maybe can do it myself and save money
For sure man! Just use common sense and do your research and you can handle it!
Thank you, from someone with very little experience, this was great! “USUALLY” 😂
Excellent visuals, along with, some pretty good input-thanks man!
keclark4 you're welcome. Thanks for the compliments!
did anyone else lose themselves when he fired up that torch and turned around
Yep,I got a very strange feeling as far as the mental stability and mechanical workings of his brain. Some say the same about me too though.
Lmao thanks man. Can't be serious all the time!
😂😂😂😂
Definatly great skills recording an working 👍
Thank you!
can't post a picture but my rear end threw the bracket that u torque through the caseing an new to this lol but great video
can't post a picture but my rear end threw the bracket that u torque through the caseing an new to this lol but great video
The magnet that you pointed at is the Fill plug. Sometimes they have a magnet on them sometimes they have a magnet glued to the inside of the cover
thanks for the video man, now i can have a crack at mine, the pinion fell to bits.
Dude…nice video and love the humor
Thanks man, appreciate the love!
The stuff on the splines on the pinion is pipe dope its supposed to be there to seal between the splines
That's interesting/dumb lol that's what a pinion seal is for!
@@Tinman2Kustoms it seals between the splines so the oil can't come out between the yoke and the pinion, the seal only seals the outside of the yoke.
@@thegrapest14 yeah I get that, but what's the point of keeping it from going past the pinion as long as it doesn't come out the seal? Lol
@@Tinman2Kustoms It can come underneath the nut that holds the pinion on without coming around the seal
Excellent dialogue. Good stuff bud.
Thanks Jack! Hope it helps
Love the vid brother very helpful..im a mechanic and you may laugh but ive never rebuilt a rear .i have a 2000 Silverado 1500. It started making a clunk metal like noise when i back up and then take off in drive.i can definitely hear noise when im slowing down and i fear its the diff carrier bearings .when im on the throttle it wont make noise.just looking for a second opinion before i jump right in.
Most likely the pinion bearing or a loose pinion
Just picked up my Chevy 84 K5 Blazer from the shop. Needs a rear end rebuild. Is most common that it just needs new bearing kit if the shaft Is moving around? It's not making any noise, just has some play in it.
Hi. My Silverado 99 has the same differential. My question Is, can i Fit a gear 4.51 or 4.56 in that differential? Or do i have to change complete the differential?
My 69 Firebird has 3:91’s and is NOT a freeway car due to the low gears .
So I pondered to see what it takes for me to do gear set swap.
After watching this video, realized I’m out of my league to attempt this task.
Looks like time to locate a shop to do this for me.
Expect to pay 1200+ for a gese swap
@@uglymechanics6599
Thx, That’s not to far from what costs I expected to have shop do this for me.
Iv’e pondered maybe find another used complete housing setup w the gears I want and swap it rather then redo My center piece.
Just so EVERYONE knows, the Carrier in NOT the diff, the Carrier is the cast iron center section that the bearing caps bolt to. The differential case is what the ring gear bolts to, whether it's a locker or an open diff, which is what this axle contains.
Thanks, a usefull ans easy to understand video
When I took the pinion out the crush sleeve slid right off, I’m assuming the preload was not done correctly?
Yes, you are correct in that assumption
Hey you bought a tailgate from me for your C10 many years ago. I need some help with converting my light truck 12 bolt. I need advice.
Yo I hope I see you at back to the 50s if you go. That’d be sick as hell
john johnsom I'm there every single year!! Should be there with my car/truck/trailer rig hopefully
Great vids bro first time viewer
Thank you! Hopefully you can get some value out of my channel/videos!! :)
What if you have to replace the ring and pinion? can you swap the shim to the new pinion? I have a `91 Silverado with 300,000 miles on it, still going strong but I think a tooth is chipped one one or both gears. Every now and then it feels like a skip and grab in the rear.
Yes, you can put the shims in the same location of the same size and it will generally get you close. But the BEST practice is to have a sacrificial setup bearing, so you can shim and check it before final install. Every single ring & pinion gear ever made will have very slight differences, even one from the same day from the same factory. You just have to stack the odds in your favor as much as you can and see if the cards play out.
Hello and thanks for your video. I'm installing a used carrier on my differential case I plan on re using my old ring bearings and pinion bearing since they are match together and I dont have to mess with crush sleeves etc.. my question is do i still have to check the back lash and paint the ring gear with the yellow paint to check the contact of the pinion with the ring gear??
It's always a good idea to recheck the pattern with the pattern paint.
Would you have to check the lash if you where to only change the ring and pinion gears put shims back in same place? My rear end is all new about 2000 miles ago but the 3.73 needs to be replaced with 4.11. Wonder if races and stuff could stay too? Hope I didn't make this sound confusing. Thanks for input
The races can stay. But with a new ring and pinion you would have to check the lash and pattern, for sure.
Thanks for this video! I understood it all except for when to install the crush sleeve. After reading the comments, I guess it's after you have the backlash set, right? I've never done this before but after watching your video a couple times I'm ready to try it! I appreciate the help, and the video was very good and funny too!
He literally told you exactly when to install the crush sleeve
He literally told you exactly when to install the crush sleeve
If the opinion bearing isnt bad so you take it out to replace it anyway just to have all the bearings new?
If it's apart, I see it as you might as well replace it. But that's a matter of opinion!
ok pressing the race in on the bearings was wrong after you break the bearings apart use the inner race its exactly the same size as the old one it will seat it perfectly and as for the shims on the pinion gear it was way to far in you definitely needed to shim the pinion out more. How long did it last?
I learned years ago that the only way to make sure the gear would last is to buy a pinion depth gauge and set it within one thousandth of the spec stamped on the face of the pinion.
Yep, that wear pattern on the pinion wasn't good. Pinion was way to far in. I was wondering the same thing when he said time to button it up and add fluid and we're done. I said to myself, uhhhhhhh, noooo! LOL!
Hello Tinman, I have 1995 GMC Surburban Truck 2500, 4x4, 7.4L, My Rear end is OK for now, it has 249 Miles, Can I replace Rear Axel With Newer That has disc brakes, Thanks Doug
When you dropped that bolt at 1:53, that's me at the shop everyday lol
Marc Smith do 3.73s fit in the 307s pumpkin???
Well i know one shop i wont be bringing my vehicles to lol 😂😂
Nice video man. Very realistic and also alternative solutions
what about the crush sleeve install and the pinion seal replacement??
Pinion seal is pretty simple. Lube it up & tap it in with something big and flat. Crush sleeve just gets put in place and then tightened down, essentially. If you order your rebuild components from Yukon Gear & Axle they all come with basic instructions.
Is there such a thing as a 10 bolt ring and pinion with a 12 bolt carrier?
I wouldn't be surprised if their is. But it would be a rarity. You'd have to reach out to someone more knowledgeable about rear diff history to get that answered
@@Tinman2Kustoms
Years ago I bought a 3.70 ring and pinion set from Performance Automotive Wholesale (PAW) for my 1973 Chevy. Took it to the dealer to have it installed. The installer told be that my car had a 12 bolt carrier with 10 bolt cover. I stopped the install and still have the set. That was decades ago. The car is long gone.
A pinion bearing I like $20.°°. It's worth it to have an extra to destroy during setup. If you had gotten a new ring gear would you have used the old bolts?
The last pinion bearing I bought from O'Reilly was $90... But yes, sometimes it's worth it. And I've also used old bolts for new gears. Sometimes you do what you gotta do to get it done. That's realistic car building.
For me heating the bearing didn't get it large enough to slip it on. I actually had to FREEZE the carrier in the fridge for a few hours and then the combination of expanded hot bearing and contracted cold carrier let it slip right on.
Rick CL right, that's common practice as well. That was mentioned in another rebuild video, forgot to mention it here
So this is like rebuilding a Colorado rear end? Also I have a question really hoping you could answer it so my rear end I know is shot everytime I shift it it does do a little clunk and sometimes when I give it gas in drive it wont move just high revs and sometimes will move if u hold it at high rpms my question is is it the rear end only or could it be my transmission to really hoping it's not the transmission 😭
It's definitely transmission.
@@Tinman2Kustoms thank you so much I really appreciate it
@@billyjames188 good luck & sorry for the bad news!
THANK you for this video. I need to rebuild the rear end in my LS swapped 1990 K1500. gonna put some 4.56 or 4.88's in her and a locker.
5.13's an u might be able to run with the big dogs
5.13's
How do I figure out what the torque is for The Gap bolts on a 1989 K5 Blazer
Just putting in a Yukon carrier just like the one in the video in my 06 YukonXl I had a question about how tight is too tight for the shims when putting the new carrier back in the rear end I am having trouble removing the carrier back out am thinking they are too tight? Great video by the way have been watching it repeatedly my factory gm Gov lock assembly completely blew apart to use a grinder to cut pieces out to remove it just to get to the c clips to remove the axles
They are always tight to go in & out. It's supposed to be that way. Tight is right! Lol
@@Tinman2Kustoms thanks alot appreciate the quick response got the backlash set everything torqued to spec. Getting ready to put diff cover on now its 11:25pm here near Chicago pulled my hair for lil while before finally got it figured out lol. Do you know if they have a c clip eliminator kit for a 06 YukonXl slt haven't found nothing yet
@@MegaWolfman76no worries man! I'm not 100% sure to be honest. You'd have to call their tech line. C-clips are undependable
As soon as he swore I knew this vid was for me ! 😂
Hello so I have a 95 tahoe 4x4 and now its doing a clicking noise on the rear differential would I be able to use the same parts if I take it apart and see the bearings?
You're best off contacting Yukon gear and axle with the application questions. It will be the same process as shown in this video though.
Still a great video. 👍
He put the pinion adjustment on the back burner by using the torch to get everyone's attention . Im curious to see how he held the pinion from rotating while crushing the sleeve.
That's the part of the video i was waiting for .
With a big pipe wrench.
You can also buy a tool just for doing that from summit racing. Or make one. All sorts of ways to do it.
Did I miss the crush sleeve segment?
I don't remember if I mentioned it or went into it much. But get the fucker pretty much as you can possibly get it with a 6ft pipe on your breaker bar and someone else or the weight of something heavy holding the yoke stationary with a pipe wrench. Checking occasionally with the weighted basket or torque wrench. It's kind of hard to explain.
@@Tinman2Kustoms copy that thanks very much
Great real deal work. 👍🏻
The gear seting wasn't good did u move shims on carrier or pinion
If my new pinion is the same size as my old one can i just put the same shims on the new one and call it a day?
No. You can use those shims as a starting point, but their will be slight variances in every single pinion/ring gear, even if the same ratio.
@@Tinman2Kustoms okqy thanks brother i apreciate it!🍻
my fill plug is seized in my rear end. I took the cover off drained oil. do u think it will catch fire if I heat drain plug up with a torch. I sprayed inside with gunk to get some old oil out, but gunk is petroleum based. I really dont want to spray water on the gears.
texas tough won't start on fire. That's what I'd recommend, using a torch to heat around the plugs so it expands some and let's the threads lose
Don't have a shop press buy 300 degree oil doable and it really works ?
Sure does!
If everything is good in my rear end. Can i just change the carrier to the posi unit.
I bought a Eaton tru-trac LSD. I bought the carrier bearing that they suggest they will go on the Diff ok but are to big for the journal in the Diff housing. I'm sure it's a stock rear end ? any suggestions?
What is the problem if your cap bolts lock up the carrier when they are tight, if i loosen the cap bolts the carrier turns easy but tight it will not turn even with the drive shaft taken out?
You shouldn't have used a cutoff wh... Oh who cares! Great video man.
POSITRACTION REAR END what type of oil do i have to youse for this one Thanks for your video
frits duwel you can use any off-the-shelf rear gear lube. Usually about a 90-130w or somewhere around there. Yukon gear & axle recommends 1-2 bottles of their positraction friction modifier additive as well, depending on the size of the axle. I used 1.5 bottles of the additive/modifier in this one
How’d you torque the pinion, and check for bearing load?
It's in the video.
Tinman 2 Kustoms I understand you use the 15 inch lbs setup to check your bearing load, but how did you actually torque the pinion nut down? Just use a impact gun? Or use a torque wrench to a certain point, check load, torque, check load? Thanks
@@joshuakeith8710 I get it started with an impact. Then use a big breaker bar/Chester pipe and a big pipe wrench holding the pinion In place while tightening the nut. Usually a 2 person Job. Then pull off the tools and check the pinion spinning resistance, and repeat the process like 10-15 times or until it's right.
Much better response. Thank you.
Question, I have a 1969 10 bolt that is an OEM safe-t-trac unit.
It doesn’t seem like a real locker "both wheels" grip good when power is put to it.
Perhaps I misunderstand the type of unit, as I was under the impression it is a locker type .
I am familiar with Food 9 inch locker are POSI under all conditions and power.
So, is this unit you used an Upgrade better design, then the stock factory piece?
I’ll never exceed 450RWHP on street tires, so brutal harsh condition are not a real factor.
Or is there parts to beef sup my existing 10 bolt.
Hey great video. Also in Minnesota myself but reaching out to see if you can give me some pointer. My rear axle in my tahoe has a broken breather vent and was wondering how I can get it out or if the rear end is bad now any help would be great thanks.
Dillon Nelson breather vent just keeps excess pressure out of the rear end. Figure out a way to fix it. That's the only thing I can suggest
Ok I just trying to figure out how to get old one out.not sure how it works but thanks I'll keep trying.
Use a harmonic balancer puller to remove yoke
What was overall cost for self rebuild????
Thanks a lot, first great video about this that I found. :)
A tip
Save the old pinion bearing if possable, then hone the i.d. a few thou oversize to make a set-up bearing that slides on and off easily. This makes shimming the pinion a piece of cake.
what about the wear on the old bearing, could be pretty worn
Where can I get that bolt that u dropped what size is that
I'm not sure.
I got a 01 silverado with the gt4. 3.73 ratio...is it 8 bolt ten inch...is this the exact vid I need to rebuild my rear end lol
my dad has a 1939 Chevrolet Master Deluxe and the rear axle fucked up. the axle came out when he was driving and we could not figure out what holds the axle in. thanks so much
Those darn c-clips! Haha you're welcomd
Right on...Great video.
Some guy that works at a driveline shop nearby where I live said Yukon is garbage. Is that true in your opinion or what’s better than that?
@@danielhuerta6575 Yukon is probably the most trusted brand name in the automotive market for aftermarket axle parts. I would probably stay away from that driveline shop. I've never once had a problem with any of their products. Some people don't like the prices, so that shop probably can't gouge his customers as much with Yukon, so that's why he doesn't like them.
good stuff , brother ! keep it up
I'm about to do this for the first time. What do you mean by a "setup bearing"?
A setup bearing is essentially a removable pinion bearing that can exactly replicate the final bearing to be used. So you can assemble and disassemble multiple times to adjust the pinion depth. Buy 2 pinion bearings. Buy a a carbide bit. Open up the bearing just barely enough to where it'll slide on and off of the pinion with a little encouragement-but not too much. Then you can mesh the gears with the paint and determine if it needs to be spaced up more or shims removed.
So what type of gear oil did you use?
I'm no mechanic but I do know physics, and you certainly DO need to include the weight of the wrench in that torque calculation. What you're calling 15 in-lb is probably more like 30! (assuming the wrench weighs around 2 pounds). In fact just use the wrench by itself and you'll be pretty close to 15.
makers of that tool know that and actually account for that. so, 15in/lbs on a nice $500 snap-on torque wrench wont be a true 15 in/lbs but based on the weight of that wrench, and even the length (the nice ones have a very specific area to plce you hand at to use the tool), when the tool is used properly the proper force will be reached. so you maybe just exerting 8in/lbs of force at your hand/handle of the tool, that nut will be getting the 15in/lbs bc everything else is accounted for. which is why its worth the $$.
How much does it cost to rebuild
Depends what's bad inside, the quality of parts you want, the application, and if you're paying someone to do it or doing it yourself. Anywhere from $200-$10,000
Ahh the almighty extension!
Use it to put in axle seals or use it to diagnose a noise!
What did you torque the bearing cap bolts to?
I think it was 60ft lbs. It gave all the torque specs in the instruction book that came with the Yukon Locker. Or can be googled easily. "gm 8.5" axle main cap torque spec"
Cool/good video and same goes to you 🤘🏻😁
can you use a heat gun instead of cutting it?
I think this was the best fuckin video on here about rear ends !!!!! Good Job
oh thanks much for the compliment! Glad it was some help
Great video bro..I like your style!
Damaion Ennis thanks man! Lots more on my UA-cam and always more coming! Subscribe to see the videos first :)
I can’t get my diff. out. I got everything off/out (except for the pinion, obviously) but the diff. won’t come out and it’s supposed to just lift out. I’m not sure why it won’t budge
Jordono da Vinci sometimes it takes some encouragement. I'd hope you have the axles and main caps pulled out too. Ha
Good vid
What size is the yoke bolt?
That glue type stuff is pft Teflon goop .to seal spline so gear oil can't seap out
joseph lacy hmm, I've never seen that on an axle before. You'd think the pinion nut and washer, along with the main seal would be enough. Always has been for me in the past anyways!
Good to know though
My rear dif jus blew few nights ago 🤦🏻♂️