No more GovBomb! (Instant Engagement)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 лют 2023
- We're making are rear axle handle power! I'll show how to do away with some of the GM weaknesses easy and on the cheap.
Cover was from summit racing, FYI I had to get different bolts. Also a lot of the different covers said (not for trucks) but still worked fine in my case.
amzn.to/4c65oKo ( Here's a similar affordable diff cover from amazon)
(Affiliate link)
Thanks for watching!
Please Hit the ( Thumbs up )👍button if you enjoyed, (it helps spread the video).
Subscribe and check out the channel for more awesome stuff😁.
/ @nicholsperformance92
#g80 #chevytruck #10bolt
music credit:
Racing Sport Gaming | RACING by Alex-Productions | / @alexproductionsnocopy...
Music promoted by www.free-stock-music.com
Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License
creativecommons.org/licenses/... - Навчання та стиль
My primary vocation for a number of decades was welding. If you weld any part of that axle tube, you have to put an equal weld on the opposite side of it, or do three sections of it. Otherwise, when that weld cools it will pull that axle out of square. And you will actually have a bend in the axle tube. Or at least stressors that cause that. Do not weld it all the way around because any crack in that weld will propagate all the way around the axle tube. But two or three welds will work well in it they only have to be a couple of inches long or less. The critical thing is to get them hot enough to actually take proper hold.
That’s good! I agree spacing three welds out would probably be the best bet for axle tubes. Steel always cracks right next to the weld and you wouldn’t want to have that weak spot all the way around. Thanks for the thought out advice I’m going to pin this comment.
I've been a pressure pipeline welder for over 30 years, I came here to make the same comment lol
“I’m playing with my rear end” the look my girlfriend gave me afterwards 😂
🤣🤣
I have a 2002 Silverado LT 5.3 with G80. Changed it after it started making some noise around 475,000 miles. Good thing I didn't know anything bad about them.
isnt it funny how when you dont know about them they last forever, but as soon as you read one article they blow the next week lol
Good stuff bro. Thanks!
I'm glad I came across your video.
I'm going to change out the rear in my truck.
04 gmc sierra 2500hd duramax lb7 4x4.
Which I'm going to do a truss system along with welding the tubes and now from this. Will be modifying the limited slip locker.
Thank you.
Now the rear will be indestructible. 😁
Sweet 👍
I have a 2010 z71 I will try that on my truck ! Thanks for the info
Thanks!
Thank you! And thanks for watching.
Nice combo. I have a 2002 WS6 TransAm 6 speed with 74k miles on the car. Its got alot of little mods but the main stuff are hooker ceramic coated longtubes, 3" to 4" catless Stainless steel Y-pipe and a 4" spintech cat-back exhaust, I rarely mess around between a 100, 125, or 150 shot from time to time but engine wise its basically every free mod but nothing done internally. A very good tip about the LS1 mods. I ported and polished the factory TB and when i was working on it i noticed that the throttle bump stop thats cast into the TB housing of all factory cable operated LS1 engines do not allow for WOT. Even the TPS said its only opened about 80% or 84% (been a long time to remember exactly) So I had to find out the proper WOT reading for the TPS and set up a multimeter and grind away at the throttle stop until it read exactly what it needed to actually be at 100% WOT (go slow because anything over that exact OHM reading will throw a code) getting it to read true WOT will change the ECM to set the tune for a WOT pull. The ecm will automarically cut off the A/C at full throttle and it runs your max timing advance setting unless the knock sensor picks up detonation, then it will pull a little timing. I did the true ram air mod, descreened the maf and ported and polished it and did the coolant bypass on the throttle body at the sane time that i P&Ped TB and discovered the bump throttle as I wass adding the SLP lid and smooth bellows. These were my first mods to the car but all of them together made a noticeable difference all the time and especially at wide open throttle . My car is a factory freak anyway and ran 12.8s at darlington completely box stock when i got it in 2012 with 33k miles that with cooper street tires and a good bit of wheel spin (2.20 60 ft IIRC). After doing all the free mods with the air intake in one afternoon i went back to darlingtin the next weekend and was running12.6 pretty consistently with a full tank of gas instead of 1/3rd tank like the first time out (3 out of 5 passes were 12.6) first night ever racing it while box stock was 3 passes at 12.8 out of 10 total passes, slowest being the first tire shredding pass at a 13.3. Sorry to ramble on but i figured I'd comment since i also have a blacked out 2000 Zr2 S10. Its getting an aluminum block, 799 headed, L33 5.3L swap with 8 psi of boost from an in bed remote mounted turbo, a BTR truck norris cam, and an LS6 intake. Zr2's are basically stuck running modified cast steel 98-99 F-body manifolds since no one makes headers for the Zr2 Ls swaps. The 02 TA is about to het the slave cylinder and rear main seal replaced so while im at it the car will be getting a H/C/I swap with a set of 3.73s. The TEA fully cnc ported stage 2 ls6 heads and a FAST intake and matching TB will be used but im still doing research on the cam. From what i saw from the truck norris i may end up running it in the car as well. the Truck Norris made better power everywhere compared to the BTR stage 3 N/A cam. Ive got a few more profiles to check out but the TN cam seems be be a great high performance cam that still makes real good low end TQ. I daily the TA so some more low end power will be nice. Enjoy your ZR2 and T/A. Its surprising how many oc us actually have s ZR2 and a 4th gen LS car. Ive got a 9" suspension only lifted 87 k5 blazer and an 89 formula firebird with a full race built stroker 383 and i converted it from an automatic to a T56 also.
Thanks man, that was a lot to read through 😅. Sounds like we all got our hot rod projects. Both of are car worlds seem pretty similar. I’m definitely excited to work my way out of the truck and start playing with my T/A as well. Should be somewhat similar to yours. 799 heads are under rated! It’s a shame the SRT4 doesn’t seem to get much cred, you’d be surprised how much it murders that ls1 right now.
My 383 ate those like candy, my S-10 has a 35 spline QP 9", not playing that game again. Good video very informative. When they blow up they are an absolute monster to disassemble.
You mentioned monster. I can almost agree with u cus rite now I'm trying to take the whole thing apart and I cannot remove the pin that goes across the casing. It seems like it's fused with the two spider gears and it will only come out about a1/4 inch out and not even hammering it that pin will come out. I can't even change the outer pinion bearing cus it seems the washer welded itself to the pinion shaft also and it has no more bearing so my drive shaft shakes like hell wen I release the gas to slow down Soni have to have tension on the shaft to avoid the shake. All this happen back in August wen the back wheels suddenly locked up in the middle of the street and it wouldn't move. After getti towed home I lifted the back wheels and forced it to break loose hitting back and forth and since then the bearings disappeared now I can't take it apart and it's a 8.5 g80 locker. I need help maybe someone can help me out I need to remove that pinion Wich is worn and I can't.
Wishing you the best of luck!@@jereventura
I would say get a grinder and cutting wheel or a set of torches, if it's blown as bad as it sounds which is common the thing is nothing but garbage which is what I think about them from the beginning. If this is for your hot rod I would seriously think about a 9" Quik Performance, problem with fixing what you got is a lot of money and the same junk when you get done.@@jereventura
If the truck still moves around is it considered blown. All gears are in place no broken gears or case I just can't remove it to change the ring and pinion. Truck still moves. But needs the pinion bearings replaced is still blown or damaged
Nice video. Thanks
I got custom spring packs made in Mendon,MA when i back halved mine. I had to get frint eye bushibgs from PA tho, two 3-1/8x2-3/4 bushings=360$.. If you want sorings for these zr2. You pay lol. The way i did it was hid those particular receipts in the pile that amounted 6200$ for the frame and tuning. THEN IT DIDNT HURT AT ALL!!
I passed a propane torch over the spring on my ZR2 many years ago. First pass did nothing, second, slower pass turned the whole spring red and took all the preload out. My locker engaged all the time. For a while... Then it stopped engaging pretty much. Oops... :)
It will lock up. I have an 02' Blazer ZR2 8.5" 10 bolt Rear with the G80 & with the rear jacked up in Neutral...
That passenger side will spin & then it locks & disengages & locks & repeats.
It just goes clunk, then releases the clunk, in neutral. In drive it just locks up over 25mph.
I have a bearing noise that just started but I can't find it. I changed the drivers side rear & that didn't shut it up. The drivers side has zero play, in/out or side to side. My passenger side has in/out play.
So IDK if I need to change that pass side bearing or not. Like I said, most of the noise is from that diff. I don't tow or anything with mine, I just baby her. Yoke is tight & no play or clunking sounds
What causes the diff to lock up and not release? Any suggestions on how to free it up?
Wish I seen this before when I had my diff opened up looks like it’s gonna have to go on jacks once more 😂
Lol, anything is a good excuse to make a mod!
Great stuff! What if I did want my Gov Bomb to be full time locked? Weld the little flaps out and the big flap in? Or weld the other side of the splines?
Well if you just manage to flick the spring off the small spinning part it would fling out immediately every time… The big lock out Paw would be the issue. Just need someway to keep that from swinging out.
You can't make it "locked" all the time without going Lincoln locked... Even if you fix the wingers so they're always latched, it has to lock and unlock any time torque or wheel speed difference reverses. Ie, it'll still technically lock and unlock all the time, it just won't allow much wheel slip. Ok if you're gentle with it, but if you're going to stand on the skinny, it'll grenade eventually... :(
that was helpful
What are the sizes for Savana and Chevy Express full size conversion vans?
So I have the 8.6 that’s good to know I have a 3/4 ton
definitely gotta try this on my S10 Xtreme
Xtreme should have lsd I would think not a locker type.
I have a 05 sierra 2500 with an 8.1 big block but mine just failed and I’m chirping my tires everywhere I go and driving in reverse didnt un lock it what should I do?
The 7.5 in the F-body is actually a 7.625. 99-02 LS Camaro/Firebird usually have the Torsen differential.
Too bad they’re still weak and you basically have to add a cover and weld the tubes if you want them to even have a chance of survival.
Donate the money my friend and I’ll run with that lol. Just trying to make the best of what I got. That’s what hot rodding is all about 😉
The Torsen diff was the only solution for keeping the rearend intact with the new LS1 engine paired to the T-56 6 speed manual transmission. Just swap the complete rearend if it's compatible with your year Camaro, disc brakes are a bonus. I pulled a Torsen from a 2001 Firebird with a 6 cylinder with automatic trans, and I've seen others (V6/auto) with the same setup. I think the V6/auto combo means the diff hasn't seen much abuse.
Tgat dude that ounded rough
Hey. Thanks for doing this!!!!! I've got a 2001 ZR2 Blazer I'm in the process of restoring. Can you please share the part number and where you picked up the flex flo dif cover?
TFS-8510300 on summit racing. Theres other ones that seem to be the same but different names. I did have to get different bolts locally tho.
@@nicholsperformance92 thanks brotha! keep up the great work!
Np, Appreciate it my man! 😁
Sept. 7, 2023. S10 freaks in Western Washington State... At Lynnwood Pick-n-Pull there is a black 1999 2 door 4WD Blazer with an 8.5/8.6 disc brake rearend. This Blazer has an automatic transmission, so it should not have the 8.5/8.6 rearend in it, but it is the real thing. It is now the 11th, and I have not seen it for a few days. It has been out in the yard for at least 3 weeks, someone should grab t it before it goes to the crusher.
Does anyone know what would cause one of these to not lock going in reverse? Mine only works moving forward.
Got a 99 blazer 4dr w 80k miles had her 8 yrs and she’s got a fresh built up 4l60 cuz I wanted to v8 swap it….but the rear is the 7.5 w 3.42 gears w the g80 and it g80 has been engaging late (25-35mph wheel speed , and or engaging fast and unlocking ….I don’t have money for anything else but I want it to act right lolll….got no muffler on it and a superchips tuner also a 4in drop
Interesting.
i heard its a bigger bearing thats why its 8.625 or 8.6 for short
Quarter weld that bro you will pull it out alignment weld just back side do front and back at the least
Yeah someone made a good point about this I pined the commit.
I have a 2006 4.8 sierra, drum rears and a 8.625 10 bolts
Thanks for the input, Sounds like there’s some exceptions out there.
Question I blew mine an mine looks all in tack but just have a few broken peace’s on bottom ?
Definitely doesn’t sound like a good situation 🫣
The G80 in my Silverado has not locked up in a couple years.
It has probably already disintegrated itself to one wheel
7.5 7.6 8.2 8.5 8.6 chev 10 bolt corporate axle and borg warner 9bolt cover at 7.75
Здравствуйте. Извините, подскажите пожалуйста какое масло заливать в этот самоблок?
I offroad a lot with my Suburban and into situations all the time where i want it to engage quicker and with less force, this may be a solution for me. If not I'm thinking i want an electronic locker i can engage whenever with a push button. Any recommendations on e lockers?
Not sure on E or Air lockers, but if you want some thing that’s similar but way better,, lunch box style automatic lockers have a lock of good rep.
@@nicholsperformance92 might have to go air locker and go arb... Definitely trying this trick first. I have 2 rears i blew out to practice on 😂
Get the elocker
@@brad1367 After looking into it more, I can't find an locker. Even called 4 Wheel parts and they said no such locker exists for my truck.
Hey man, how can i Know if my diff works? I've been doing all your steps and my diff just dont turn both tyres? What can i do?
If you can get that small rotating paw to lock that the whole thing should be locked. If you can, make sure those paws aren’t snapped off. I’m worried something might be broken.
It's got to be difficult to get 100-150 rpm by hand, maybe wrap a rope and 'pull start' it? I'll try it on the Tahoe and report back. Lmk if it helps, stay safe
Thanks for the video, why did you have to reverse it to get it to release? just stopping should have released it rite, I mean your not going to put it in reverse when your driving? just wondering
Thx for the view. When you’re driving everything’s moving. Here was just kind of a stagnant test.. so there no way for it to naturally losing up.
Big spring is heat treated it will snap trust me you cannot buy just the spring. The gov locking actuator is about $150 I just had to purchase one myself.
What about when you get the fluid in there? Does the weight of the fluid make it kick out?
the oil doesn't seem to change it much. just test it in small steps to get were ur happy with it. I over did mine a little bit and the only issue is it kicks on when I slow down real fast for some reason..but only somtimes.
Be cool if someone sold springs with different rates.
Yeah it would be cool if some one tried to make parts for them. There’s so many and everyone complains about them but it’s so rare to see someone trying to tinker with one.
@@nicholsperformance92 yeah it’s weird since there’s millions of them out there there isn’t much of aftermarket support for them. Some might argue why does perfection need support. Lol.
would this work on a 2015 z71 colorado?
I’m pretty sure the same kind of g80 is still available in 2015 and if you have a Z71 it should automatically have that as part of the off-road package.
The s10 trucks can have disc brakes with the 7.5 and 7.625 10bolt
Yes that’s right, that rough guide was only for full-size trucks.
@nicholsperformance92 my wife's 06 1500 4x4 has the 8.6 rear diff with g80 and drums
Well darn.. guess there’s some exceptions out there. At least all of the mods and beef up would be mostly the same which is the main thing I wanted to show everyone.
I own a 2015 Silverado 1500 6.2 ltz 4×4, it has reat disc brakes. It also has towing package. Full AFM delete with7 BTR cam and LS7 lifters.
.
Actually 4ish. The gm 8.0 had a g80. Colorado/canyon
can you do a top speed run
2003 Tahoe z71.. I took a cold chisel and hammered out the gov bomb.
Lol, that’s one way to do away with it 🤣
I have a 01 Yukon with the same gears and every time I turn in a parking lot my tires jerk and squirrel
That thing must be just locked all the time. I wonder if it’s broken or somebody messed with it.
@@nicholsperformance92 I took it apart and it looks good but every time I turn sharp it jerks the vehicle and I can hear the rear end locking up
@@nicholsperformance92 and I have the same diff as you
What's better 10 bolt or 12 bolt ?
12 is a larger more heavy duty axle, I think they’re usually on 2500 trucks and some old school cars…. Maybe someone else can chime in and give some more info.
@@nicholsperformance92 i have 2 C10s a 78 short bed with a G80 locking diff and a 79 long bed with a 10 bolt diff but not sure with type. I'm planning on rebuilding one from both trucks but not sure which is better
The G80 is nice if you get one tire in a ditch or something… i’m assuming that has the larger 10 bolt,, if you plan on hotrodding it I would say replace it with some type of posi and reinforcement cover. Or move up to the 12 bolt if you know you’re really gonna run it and have the $$
@@nicholsperformance92 my dream is to restore the whole truck. So far sandblasted the chassis primers and painted classic black satin . Front end is what I'm working on next repaint and new bushings for the control arms brand new tie rods ball joints spindles and rotors. So I was just planning ahead for the rear end.
Right on man! Good luck on the build. C10s are pretty cool.
Wish I saw this when I had my rear end opened up 2 weeks ago... lol
Darn.. Yeah that would’ve been a nice while you’re in there type of job lol.
@@nicholsperformance92 I'll run it for now whilst I debate a truetrac. I'm not chirpin brodies. I'm slingin dirt and snow.
can i run my differential with out the gov lock
You mean modify it, so that it never engages? Sure you could probably rig or cut the spring going to the large counterweight, and it would instantly cut out its ability to lock. You might find another way to do it once you start tinkering around in there.
@@nicholsperformance92 it just fell of the diff lock mechanism. but i lift the truck today and spin the tires and it broke the hole thing where the large pin is the one to be taken out with a magnet all that piece just broke so my question is can i get rid off the diff lock and put a limited slip or the clutch one usung the same ring and pinion? all i know its a 91 chevy 4x4 3.73 10 bolt and i believe the ring is like a 8.5 ( this rear end is from a 98 suburban 4x4 i bought at a junk yard long ago
@@nicholsperformance92 if you can steer me in the right direction i will apreciated your help
I'll help you with ur rear end bro!
Lol
How’s it holding up ?
I got my spring just a little to lose and it locks up sometimes when stopping quickly for some reason. Be sides that it’s been fine.
How many turns out did you loosen? I wanna grab a g80 instead of the truetrac
Sorry. That's Trick Flo
😅 only until the little teeth gear shreds and stuck in the dirt. Shity desing
Git
Ji.sgottafi d something 😊