A commenter stated that a silicon cord should be used and I didn't even think about it when replacing the line cord with whatever I had laying around. So, if you do end up replacing the cord, a proper high temperature rated cord should be used.
I'm 72 yrs old and I grew up with a 8200 100/140 I love that old gun. An elderly lady gave me a D550 240/325 and now a have a new love. People say I don't like those old dinosaurs, but it's becuz they are use to the new knock offs. I like when you pull the trigger on one of these and they hum I know there read yo do some work. Love your video, I'm gonna clean my old one up now. Thanks again for a great video!
Hey I've got a question about the schematic shown at 3:00 . From what I remember from school, it looks like the current from the 120VAC line flows into The H2 equivalent on the primary side (referring to point 5 if the switch is at position 2-1) as depicted by the dot notation. That seems backwards to me. If the switch is at position 2-1, shouldn't the current be flowing into the primary coil from the dotted side (point 1)and exiting through the undotted side (point 5)? I'm thinking from a conventional current standpoint. Am I wrong? Thanks!
Doesn't matter! Yeah, I got a little sloppy with notation there but it's a youtube video, also it made the schematic cleaner, slightly. The dot really indicates what phase will be on the other side of the transformer, since there is no phase relationship here, it doesn't matter, the AC signal will pass through the same with the mains wires placed on the transformer either way. Also, being an AC signal the current will be in both directions. I picked a random transformer diagram that had enough windings in the software rather than making a custom one.
Yes, that feature is still on the newer models. The purpose is two power levels. So, 240 watt is the first click (colder iron) and 325 watt is the second click (hotter iron).
This (much) older unit is not setup that way. The power consumption increases on fully compressed trigger and the tip heats up faster in this mode. This is a vintage unit. You are correct that the newer models do operate at full power then lower power. The wattage is also listed that way on the newer models "260/200" as opposed to "240/325".
Dude the cooper tip its so dirty! you must clean it using a chloridric acid bath. i have the same type of soldering gun but the Argentinian version, called " Vesubio model D-3". it heats up in less than 5 seconds.
Thanks and you're right. I plan to do that as well but the main focus was cleaning up the inside, replacing the line cord, and making sure the unit was still functional. I have used a few times since and I need to get the tip restored now to make it a go-to tool.
i stumbled upon this video because i just bought a new d550 and measured the actual power used and i was a bit disappointed, it topped out at 188w and stayed around there is heating up a joint to solder, and dropped down to 160w when hot in free air, the low setting was around 140w peak, tried all the tips not much change, but definitely not the 260w as advertised. Sad how crappy and overrated everything is today.
Yeah, I like the modifications Mr Carlons lab makes to these with the wire tip. I think that gets a few extra watts out of them. This is the very old version though.
You used the wrong type of cord it should be a silicon type wire like the ones they use on toasters, coffee pots, and other type of appliance..... It has to be heat resistant from burning the installation with the iron itself..... I have to tell you amateurs everything apparently... also It does not need a polarized plug...now go back and explain to your followers the right kind of wire to use before they have some kind of hazard using a standard cord... Sorry but I have to give you a thumbs down for this one......
Yes, I should have, I replaced with the type already on the tool. It did completely go over my head to improve it. I guess the down side to that is it will cost more than the tool to put a good cord on here.
A commenter stated that a silicon cord should be used and I didn't even think about it when replacing the line cord with whatever I had laying around. So, if you do end up replacing the cord, a proper high temperature rated cord should be used.
I'm 72 yrs old and I grew up with a 8200 100/140 I love that old gun. An elderly lady gave me a D550 240/325 and now a have a new love. People say I don't like those old dinosaurs, but it's becuz they are use to the new knock offs. I like when you pull the trigger on one of these and they hum I know there read yo do some work.
Love your video, I'm gonna clean my old one up now.
Thanks again for a great video!
Thanks for watching and sharing. This is a great iron for working on chassis connections or large thermal planes/large wires.
Hey I've got a question about the schematic shown at 3:00 . From what I remember from school, it looks like the current from the 120VAC line flows into The H2 equivalent on the primary side (referring to point 5 if the switch is at position 2-1) as depicted by the dot notation. That seems backwards to me. If the switch is at position 2-1, shouldn't the current be flowing into the primary coil from the dotted side (point 1)and exiting through the undotted side (point 5)? I'm thinking from a conventional current standpoint. Am I wrong?
Thanks!
Doesn't matter! Yeah, I got a little sloppy with notation there but it's a youtube video, also it made the schematic cleaner, slightly. The dot really indicates what phase will be on the other side of the transformer, since there is no phase relationship here, it doesn't matter, the AC signal will pass through the same with the mains wires placed on the transformer either way. Also, being an AC signal the current will be in both directions. I picked a random transformer diagram that had enough windings in the software rather than making a custom one.
Do they still do the double-click on the newer models? And what was the purpose of it?
Yes, that feature is still on the newer models. The purpose is two power levels. So, 240 watt is the first click (colder iron) and 325 watt is the second click (hotter iron).
Actually, it's vice versa: the first click is the full power, the second one (fully compressed trigger)- the lower power.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Actually, it's vice versa: the first click is the full power, the second one (fully compressed trigger)- the lower power.
This (much) older unit is not setup that way. The power consumption increases on fully compressed trigger and the tip heats up faster in this mode. This is a vintage unit. You are correct that the newer models do operate at full power then lower power. The wattage is also listed that way on the newer models "260/200" as opposed to "240/325".
the new are not built as well as the old ones with the nut tightened tip
I did finally replace the tip on this one too. Someone did recommend using a silicon cord which, yeah, I should do that still.
So I just found one who and how much should I try to sell it to perfect condition my grampies
No idea what they are worth used. eBay.
Dude the cooper tip its so dirty! you must clean it using a chloridric acid bath. i have the same type of soldering gun but the Argentinian version, called " Vesubio model D-3". it heats up in less than 5 seconds.
Thanks and you're right. I plan to do that as well but the main focus was cleaning up the inside, replacing the line cord, and making sure the unit was still functional. I have used a few times since and I need to get the tip restored now to make it a go-to tool.
i stumbled upon this video because i just bought a new d550 and measured the actual power used and i was a bit disappointed, it topped out at 188w and stayed around there is heating up a joint to solder, and dropped down to 160w when hot in free air, the low setting was around 140w peak, tried all the tips not much change, but definitely not the 260w as advertised. Sad how crappy and overrated everything is today.
Yeah, I like the modifications Mr Carlons lab makes to these with the wire tip. I think that gets a few extra watts out of them. This is the very old version though.
Magkano sir
k
Old Weller
Old Yeller
Just Old
No en ingles.
I am not sure what you mean.
You used the wrong type of cord it should be a silicon type wire like the ones they use on toasters, coffee pots, and other type of appliance..... It has to be heat resistant from burning the installation with the iron itself..... I have to tell you amateurs everything apparently... also It does not need a polarized plug...now go back and explain to your followers the right kind of wire to use before they have some kind of hazard using a standard cord... Sorry but I have to give you a thumbs down for this one......
Yes, I should have, I replaced with the type already on the tool. It did completely go over my head to improve it. I guess the down side to that is it will cost more than the tool to put a good cord on here.