Excellent build overview video, with all the details you provide. If I may make a few suggestions. The VFD installed inside your enclosure exposes the drives, and breakout board to large amounts of EMI which may create system stability issues even with an EMI filter with oversea drives. The other area to review is your non-conductive enclosure which prevents it from producing a Faraday cage effect around the electronics, and prevents the enclosure itself from being grounded. Once again these are simply my suggestions based on my past experiences, but your work's detail is some of the best I've seen on UA-cam. The grounding you implemented is very well done for your components. Fantastic job, and thank you again for your support. Have a great weekend! Vince
Hi Vince, great to see you came across my channel and took the time to evaluate this project. I learned a lot from your videos on grounding and other CNC related topics. The VFD in the cabinet and the plastic enclosure are both compromises to make the threshold for this type of project as low as possible. Having said this, it is not ideal for the reasons you mentioned, grounding and EMI. I will definitely consider using a metal enclosure for my next project, especially if it includes a VFD. An option for this project might be a metal "satellite" box for the VFD. I will update the pinned comment with your tips. Thanks! Robin
That's a fantastic idea, but I certainly wouldn't change a thing if she's stable. I always believe in mitigating problems be fore they become one as nothing is more irritating then a system that's unstable randomly.. You really did a great job, and I really appreciate your support. If you ever need anything just let me know. Thank you again, and have a great weekend! Vince
Thank you for your effort in the build you left me know that this was the best way to go. I have been sitting on the fence trying to decide which way to proceed but you explained the process very clear and sounded like you had all bases covered. Once again Thank You for your time. Best of luck in future en divers. Peter . Qld , Australia
Thank you so much for this series! I'm currently building out my own electronics for my first CNC and your guide has been invaluable. Great job on your project!
I’m doing the exact same thing right now. I’ve literally been pouring over these videos and schematics the past few nights as a build up my BoM. I was so excited to see this upload
Great to see it is useful for you guys, that makes it worthwhile for to make these types of videos. Just updated the wiring diagram last night. Let me know if you see any errors or other things that need clarification.
I like the contactor coil surge suppression! You should consider a reactor on the input voltage side or on both input and output. If you ever get a chance to look into a high end CNC machine you will notice that they no longer use drain wires and a pigtail for shielding. You need a plate that is bonded with ground and this plate shall have clamps that will provide a 360deg shield. The old pigtail method is antiquated and no longer in use. It creates higher impedance for the shield ground especially when passing it through a cannon connector.
That control box is a work of art!! Thanks for sharing all the details with us! Your presentation and photography are excellent, too. Please let us know what you make with your CNC.
Thanks! I have used my CNC for cutting wooden toys, some fixtures and halftone photo milling. I am not nearly using it as much I would like though. I have it upstairs and without enclosure, so noise is an issue. One of my next projects would be an enclosure, which would enable me to use it more frequently.
Thank you for your kind feedback! If you do find any issues let me know, no problem! And indeed this is not an industrial controller, just for the home machine.
Another great video! Just a note that in some VFD manuals it is recommended to ground the motor (spindle) with a separate wire from the three core power - so what you had done was correct. Along with that to loop the power wires through a ferrite core as close as you can to the VFD helps suppress interference as well.
Thanks, I did not know that. So I might leave it like this a bit longer than I anticipated. The ferrite is close to the VFD, so good to see that can stay as well.
- Shielded cable going though metal (GX16) plugs: it is preferred to wrap the shielding back around the cable so it comes in contact with the (GX16) connector. No extra pin needed. In that case the connector can be grounded through a metal mounting plate or complete metal housing. - Consider using a metal enclosure and placing the VFD in a separate metal enclosure, for EMI containment and easier grounding. - Check power rating for your specific components (VFD and power supply) to see which type of mains connector and fuse you should use. C14 connectors are rated to a maximum of 10amps at 250VAC. One of the possible alternatives is to not use a connector but instead a cable gland and an appropriately rated fuse inside the box or panel mounted fuse holder. Also consider CEE type wall plug if the rating of your wall outlet is not sufficient for your components. - Using shielded cables for the stepper motors also on the outside of the cabinet reduces the chance EMI issues. - most VFDs have a built in relay, which can also be used to switch a coolant pump.
@@uptimefab7412 Some inspiration for you Robin.... Watch the MAXI CNC Router build done by the Australian guy Roger Webb. I am building the identical CNC but will be using your electrical schematics instead of Roger's or maybe a bit of both. Great job on your project. Bruce.
Hi Bruce, thanks for the tip! I will have a look at his project later today. Best of luck with your project. Good to get information from multiple sources indeed. Marty's CNC garage is also a good one. Robin
Nice update and fixes. Coolant side, 1. try to remove the kinks by using a waterproof cable gland strain relief connectors cord grips 2. do you have a coolant level alarm
1. Absolutely right, the coolant lines look terrible with all the kinks. Somehow the water does make its way through. Thanks for the tip! 2. No I don't have an alarm. Would be nice though. For now I will have to rely on noticing issues myself. I never leave it alone while running, hope I can catch any failures by paying attention. Robin
Also, wanted to say thank you for explaining in detail the differences between a closed loop and open loop steppers! That was so helpful for me! Thank you!
Hello Robin Very fine workmanship. Well done! I am in the process of building my CNC machine and I have chosen to use the DDCS v3.1 controller. The issue I am running into concerns the limit and homing switches. My plan was to use the left/rear/upper limits of the machine also as home position. The left (X--), rear (Y--) and upper (Z++) are not only connected to the linit terminals of the DDCSV but also (with a wire jumper) to the home terminals of the controller to not only serve as travel limits but also as home sensors. I am using Hall Effect proximity switches as sensors. When the magnets come into range, I get a 12 volt signal at the corresponding input terminal. Here is the problem(s): 1. None of the limit switches stops the travel 2. When the gantry is in the Y-- (home) position, it kills the output to the Y-axis stepper driver in the Y++ direction I have experimented with all combinations and permutations of the Home and Limit parameters (soft limits are disabled). I wonder if you could share the parameter settings for home and limit. It is very difficult to find information on line and the manual is difficult to interpret. Thanls in Advance
Hi, thanks for the compliment! My situation is a bit different than for your machine, but here are my parameters: #50: Ignore Home, #51: Disable, #52-54: Enable. The manual states that #51 needs to be disabled when sharing the switch between home and limit. I also have it disabled, but don't use limit switches. But that setting seems to be important. I am not sure if you have seen notes A and B on page 68 of the manual, but they seem to apply for your setup. Also, have you tested your switches without combining home and limit? If you first test them by only connecting to home you can rule out a faulty switch or connection. Hope this helps, Robin
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks Robin. I like your suggestion to separate home & limit functions. I need to re-read the manual as well. I will post a reply about my results.
Just went back to the controller to further look into this. Settings #116 - #119 are also worth a look. Mine says home signal for all of these settings, but for you setting these to 1 or 2 might work (forward / reverse limit signal). Another thing to help trouble shooting is the IO screen that can be accessed by pressing the "toolpath" button a couple of times. The signals are a bit counter intuitive here: for me the home switches are all set to "high" under settings #60 - 62. For me this means they are always high unless they are pressed during homing, then they are low. Manually activate your switches while in this screen. Might help shed some light on the situation. Have to agree there are quite a lot of settings around homing and limits, so it is not trivial. Again, hope you can get it to work.
@@uptimefab7412 I decided to begin from scratch so I disabled the homing function and disconnected all home wires in the controller. Then I used the MPG to jog the machine into the limits then trace the signal back to the terminals in the controller. In this way I was able to determine that the X+ and X- signal wires were crossed in the controller. Likewise the Y+ and Y- signal wires. In this condition the home function would never work correctly. Now the limit switches are working as intended and getting the home function to work should be straightforward. I am a very happy camper!
Hi, normally, the proper way to deal with shielded cables and GX (or any metallic connectors) is wrapping the shielding around the plastic cable sleeve to ensure a contact between the connector cage and the shielding... So no need for extra pin. The female connector of the case has to be grounding (easier with metallic case)
This is what I thought as well, but saw some information that it was better to route the ground wire through the connector to the central ground point and not to the case at the location of the connector to avoid ground loops, but your option does seem to make sense. Especially with a metal housing, thanks for the tip.
Hey! Very interesting topic, thanks for that. Whether male GX connector shielding is also required, this will go into the stepper motor? Are steppers need to be grounded and how?
The general consensus is that the wires going from the controller cabinet out to the stepper motors should be shielded and the shield grounded to the central grounding point or to the cabinet if you have a metal cabinet. My machine already had non-shielded wires installed and I have not replaced them (yet). Will do so when I have time or run into EMI issues. I do have the stepper cables inside the cabinet shielded and grounded since I installed these new myself. If you are starting from scratch I would say ground the shield for all stepper wires inside and outside the cabinet.
Great upgrade, excellent video. I hope to upgrade my CNC on similar lines. If you want high repeatability in limit switches, consider using an optical limit switch, they are dead accurate
Hi Jim, please see the link below the video to the website article about this project. It contains all parts including brand and model. If there is an international supplier like AliExpress it is also listed. For generic parts form brands like Siemens or phoenix contact I have not listed the supplier because people can get them cheaper locally by just searching for the part. Cheers, Robin
On the DC power wires, you should twist the two wires together which provides a certain amount of self shielding, and cancels out any emi that is present on the power leads.
The VFD usually has a built in relay. You can program it, if it's running the spindle the relay is ON. Turn OFF with delay. M7 M8 mist and coolant for the tool cooling.
Great tip, thanks! That is indeed also a great way to switch a pump (and what that relay is probably meant for). Just checked, my vfd has a built in relay as well.
This is an awesome build I have been following since 1. I think your system is nicer than anything I’ve seen on corvette 50. You will know if your system is sufficiently grounded if you can run that VFD in the cabinet and not have any problems with noise. You should check with a hydraulics shop and ask for a tubing that is rated for flexing. I’m afraid you are going to have a huge mess on your hands with that liquid cooled spindle. If that is the same coolant we use on Mazak CNC machines I know it’s not cheap. If that’s rv coolant you need to purge immediately. Lol
Make sure your watercooling lines are free of kinks. I noticed they are restricted at the exit of the motor and at the tank. Fish tank pumps do not have enough power to overcome a bent hose. You can use a big spring around the hose to prevent bending
Hi, thanks for the tip. The kinks in the the tubing is definitely something that should be fixed. Somehow it never made it from the action list into reality to fix this. Really like your suggestion to use springs. Should be quite straight forward to install.
Thanks, totally agree on the bend protection. Regarding the coolant tank size, this works for me but probably because I only use it for short periods of time.
Thank you for the great video, you did a great job, and very neat work. I'm not going to tell you that you did anything wrong, so that I may distinguish my comment from many of the other viewers :) Thank you for the information, i'm going to use a lot of this when I build my enclosure next week.
Hi, I assume you mean stepper motor? If you put any 2 wires together when manually rotate the motor and find resistance while roatating you have found a coil pair, call that A, then the other pair is B. Or easier, check online at supplier for which colors are used for each coil. Yes it is a continuous current as is typical for open loop stepper motors.
nice project and thanks :) but for box you could use metal pc case ,it is big and have space for psu where you can put vfd to move him from drivers even more (case have some metal separating pcu from rest) ,plus it is metal so you have free grounding
very nicely done. I have done a build that's 99% done but its a lot more rudimentary than yours. You make me want to redo everything. My bed is 2m x 2m and my Z travel is 300mm to allow for my 4th axis
@@uptimefab7412 its frustrating to hear you just speak information all the time and I spend hours looking for it 😆 it would be nice if I could drop you some questions please?
@@uptimefab7412 so my Z home is at the top, which is +275.00 (homing direction is positive). When I use the main screen and navigate Goto, to move the Z down 100mm to test calibration, I am not able to change the + to a - . the Z only wants to keep going up. I am scared to make my Z home at the bottom. and if I do a test job the gap above material is set to 20mm. when I run the job the Z just drives up into the stop. any advice please?
Hi, I am also homing the Z at the top and that works fine, so it should also be possible on your machine. For trouble shooting I would start with the basics. If you manually jog the axis down with the Z- key or an MPG is it indeed moving in the right direction? If not you can swap the direction on the stepper driver or with a parameter in the DDCS (#392). If the axis moves away from the sensor instead of towards it when homing change parameter #66. Try to look at each thing step by step, what is working and what isn't?
This was just great. I have similar cabinet waiting for my four closed loop stepper drivers and all the other stuff. Grounding issue was interesting. Did you have issues of interference before doing the modifications?
re cabling all the stuffs with shielded cables afterward is pain in the a**. And interferences issues are difficult to track. So far better to properly ground all elements : shielded cable, frame, ....
Would indeed have been a lot easier to do this right from the beginning. Did not have any issues, but made some changes anyway to make sure I also have less chance of issues further down the road.
@@uptimefab7412 Hmm. I already bought the cables. Only the closed loop encoder cable is shielded... I wonder if stepper motor drive cable is prone to interference... there’s some power going there anyway.
I assume interference is less of an issue with the stepper cable than with the encoder cable. It would be strange if they would try to save a few cents on shielded wire for the motor cable if it would be very susceptible to this issue. Also if it does loose a step the encoder will detect this. We'll see how it performs. All of my open loop stepper cables are unshielded on the outside of the cabinet as well.
I'm finishing the design of my VMC(mechanical), but I absolutely have no idea about electronics, been to university twice and failed even simple circuit analysis. Did you use any guides or step-by-step when designing the electronics system? Many thanks for the series anyway!
I pulled information from various sources, mainly user manuals (DDCS manual is very useful, check digital dream website), other part manuals, forums and tutorial videos. Also, even though I do not have a background in electronics I have a basic understanding of some fundamentals. It might seem daunting, but just take it one step (component) at a time.
Thanks for the tip! Would be great to experiment with servo motors. For now I have another project lined up. Just bought an Emco turn 50 with electronics removed and already bought a SZGH controller for it, sorry no linux..... Maybe for another project, linux CNC seems like a good system, but at the moment it seems I am in a chinese controller phase :)
@@uptimefab7412 sure:) ...you need some time to play with this....but mesa cards for $300 (7i92 + 7i77) (thunk it's cost of your controller) can give you incredible functionality and all modern gcode features....perfect postprocessors for CAM and network acees to machine ( nice to save gcode from CAM directly to machine:) Also it needed it You start thinking about ATC :)
Thank you so much the very detailed step by step video guide. It is awesome! I'm in the process of gathering all the components and an enclosure. I would like to know what gauge wires should one use all the different low voltage DC cabling between the psu's and the signal wires from the motor drives to the DDCS etc and the 4 core shielded cables you have used for connecting the GX16 connectors. Because shielded cables comes in various gauges, if you happen to know how many strands per wire and thickness might be helpful. In my case I will be using a simple Arduino Uno3 with a screw terminal shield.
Hi, I use 22AWG (0.34mm^2) for signal wires and 18 AWG(0 75mm^2) for DC power to stepper drivers and the stepper motor cables. For my components this should be sufficient. If you want to formally determine required wire gauge sizes then you can calculate based on wire length and voltage drop, in that case more information is available online. The number of strands is not important, just the diameter. I use flexible wires (multiple instead of single strand) everywhere. For signal wires there is also a practical aspect. You could use very thin wires but these are difficult to handle. ( Small ferrules are difficult to keep attached, wires can break etc). Hope this helps a bit.
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you for your reply. I had a real of 4 core plus shield alarm cable and was planning to use that for "testing" but i think it is 24AWG 0.22 so a little thin. Like you said they are difficult to handle. I will get the same size that you have used. btw I posted a link to your build on Cindymill Discourse forum so you may get traffic on your blog :)
@@uptimefab7412 Yes, i'm having problems getting parts and even common items such as cables are in short supply. I am having to find bits and pieces on ebay.
At long last just got my motor side GX16 connectors soldered and connected to the plug in drivers following the steps you have shown in the video. Moving on to wiring the DC power cables. I forgot to ask earlier what gauge of wire did you use for this purpose?
For grounding I ran a separate wire through the case to the spindle to ground the machine. Since you are referring to the gx16 connectors I think you are referring to shielding. I did this only for the closed loop stepper since in my system this is the only stepper with shielded wire. The other wires are not shielded (not my choice but they were already in place when I bought the machine). When I have some time to spare on a rainy day I will probay replace them with shielded cable and use the additional pin. As someone else commented it is better to connect the gx16 on a metal plate and use the housing of the connector itself to pass through the shielding. I hope this rather long response answers your question:)
@@uptimefab7412 sorry, yes I should have been more clear. I was referring to the shielding for the stepper motors. Personally I wouldn’t worry about connecting the shielding to the plate unless you found a version that has the back of the panel connector also shielded.
As far as I have seen the shield on the cables outside the box are still not connected, right? You really should see to connect those shields as well as they will act like long antennas and emit a ton of EMI. The outside shield is not cut off, like you did it at 10:56, but bent backwards so that it makes contact with the metal housing of the plug and the sockets are usually connected to the ground. Since you are not using a metal enclosure, you could just put a metal plate inside the controller box and connect that to your ground connector. That way you can ground all sockets without changing too much. If you change over to a metal enclosure, would reduce the EMI considerably, make sure to remove the paint around the sockets on one end otherwise it will not work. On another note. UA-cam says you are from the Netherlands that would mean that you also have the Type F plugs. They are rated for only one hour at 16A. Your setup is capable of using over 2,6kW so 11A-12A. Especially with older sockets running the 2.2kW VFD + the stepper PSU for longer times, like a big engraving job, might be dangerous due to the fact that the contact resistance might have increased. At that point I would recommend using a CEE16 Plug and connector. They are designed for 16A continuos load and would reduce the risk. Also please change the C14 connector. They are also only designed for 10A continuous load. I would also recommend a CEE16 socket there.
Thanks for your detailed tips, much appreciated. For the stepper cables I am indeed still using the unshielded cables that the machine came with. For building a new machine using shielded wires is indeed the best solution since it adds little to no cost but has significant benefits in therms of EMI. I will keep it like this for now until I come across interference issues although I would not recommend it to others as a good option. In the connectors you also have a good point. I am not expecting to have full engagement with the material for prolonged time and therefore draw more than 10 amps continuously but regardless properly rated connectors should be used. On that note I am also not on a separate group. Appliances drawing large currents should be on their own circuit breaker, not on a general group with other outlets.
@@uptimefab7412 I would be careful there. Especially since an inverter is a load with a bad power factor so the current can be a lot higher than wattage may let you believe. Even my brand VFD has a power factor of just 0,71. i have no ideas how the cheaper ones behave but I would expect worse since filters and snubbers cost money. Have you measured the 10A? It would be interesting to see what your power draw is during an operation. A cheap power measuring device would do the trick. Also you have the other switchable output so I personally would not take the risk and recommend the 10A connector on UA-cam and the website. At least I would add a low amp fuse in line with the relay so that you do not accidentally overload the connector. You never know how much people know about those things and might accidentally burn their house down. From the pictures I think it should be possible to just add one next to the relay. And regarding EMI: It is difficult to see where it might cause problems. Might just be noise in the radio or it might cause devices not to work sporadically. Detecting problems caused by EMI is quite difficult since it has as much to do with the source as it has with the sink. LiYCY 4 x 0,75 costs less than 1€/m. Although I would agree with you that it will most likely not be a problem I would at least mention it on the website and the video so that other people know about it in case they run into problems.
@@nukularpictures Hi, I have not measured the power draw of the entire CNC. The C14 connector has a an 8amp fast acting fuse built in, which is covered at the end of the first video. If I understand the typical time current curves for fuses correctly, this should blow if exposed to around 10 amps for any significant amount of time. This should protect both the C14 connector, switched power socket and the wall plug. I also think 8amps is tight for the rated power of the components, but as mentioned in the video it works and it should blow if overloaded, which it has not done so far. I will put a note in the pinned comment that people should calculate the power needed for their specific components and use appropriate connectors (some use even more powerful steppers or larger 2.2kW spindle). I am not trying to cover every detail in this series, just the conversion of my specific machine, where I left some things unchanged. Some solutions like shielded cables for the steppers, VFD in a different metal cabinet, using a metal cabinet for the controller are all better solutions and I would highly recommend them to people. However, I took an approach where I kept some sub-optimal solutions if they did not cause any issues in order to save time. People can choose to go for the better solution and spend a bit more time on their build. I also hope that if they are seriously considering a build like this they also take a few minutes to go through the comments, where a lot of people, including yourself, have provided very useful advice. I will also make a note about the shielded wire in the pinned comment. Thanks again and let me know if I missed anything.
Thanks! At the moment I only have the spindle housing grounded. This has the highest risk due to the high voltage connection of the spindle motor. The rest is low voltage. I have measured and the grounding transfers through to the entire machine, but this is not the proper way to do it, the bed and gantry should be grounded independently as well (I think). Yes I am dutch, hard to hide the accent :)
Hi love the video and information I'm struggling with the home limit switch connection and can't find any videos or wiring in the 1 video said you linked in your page but I can't seem to find it. Thank you
Hi, thanks! I seem to have omitted the limit switches from the electrical schematic on my website. You can place a limit switch between the appropriate connection and the negative common. To visualize this it is probably best to check the user manual for the ddcs v3.1, section 2.6.2, page 16. The manual can be found on ddcnc.com. the idea is that the switch when pressed, will make a connection between it's assigned input and the negative common. You can select in the settings menu of the controller to have it act as normally open or normally closed. Both are fine but nor ally closed is safer since it will detect a broken cable connection. Once connected you can see the status of the switch in the IO menu. Here you can press the switch and you will see it's input status visualized on the screen. Hope you can get it working with this information. Cheers
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you so much so it would be X home and then the com negative which is pin 1 and then itll register as home when using home all axis?
Yes it should. Just to be safe start the homing cycle and manually press the limit switch to see if the machine responds. If not you will still have time to press the Estop.
hi, great job. So you connected all the stepper and spindle shields to the AC power ground? I have to wire the electronics of my cnc and I would like to do things better.
Hi, thanks! Yes, all wire shields, spindle and all other components that have a ground connection are connected to a central point (ground bar). The ground wire from you AC mains cable is also connected to this same ground bar.
Excellent work on this series, I will be referring to it religiously, now that I have decided to get rid of Mach3 for my 6040. The DDCS seems to do exactly what I need, and what bugs me about my combination of cheap breakout board and Mach3. A question: Have you considered integrated servo motors like the iHSV57? I've used them on my machine, and except for their power requirements being higher (necessitating a new PSU), they were a near drop-in replacement for the steppers. From my limited understanding, the advantage they have is that they maintain their torque over nearly their entire RPM range, whereas steppers lose a lot of torque in the extreme ranges (low and high). Plus, they're closed loop, and at least on my machines, significantly faster. And even if none of that is appealing, the fact that the driver is mounted to the motor means you would free up significant amounts of space in your cabinet ;) I was also wondering if it is possible to combine the functionalities of your different e-stops simply by wiring them together. Wire the pendant into the external e-stop circuit so that hitting the pendant will perform the same way as the external one, and vice versa? Would that work?
Hi, thank you for your feedback, good to see it helps other CNC enthousiasts. I am actually looking at servos with integrated controllers for a possible next project. Indeed more toque at higher RPM, but less holding torque at low speeds. I think less torque at low speeds should not be an issue but this depends on the situation. Maybe for a heavy Z-axis it might. The Servos should also run more quiet, for some this might not matter, but I think it is great to have low noise motors instead of the typical stepper noise. Unfortunately I do not have experience with these yet, but night give them a try. On the Clough42 channel James tested a cheap servo in case you had not seen that already. If you are first let me know how it worked out for you! For the E-stop you could indeed wire the MPG button in series with any other E-stop, should work fine if they are both Normally Closed switches.
@@uptimefab7412 I can confirm that the iHSV57 I use are quieter. I have not had any issues with holding torque, but then again, my cheap 6040 is pretty light to begin with. Only when I turn off power to the motors does the Z axis drop. But that's not a problem. Just have to keep it in mind when you turn the machine off. If you have questions about the servos, feel free to ask. I'm only a curious amateur (with sometimes poor impulse control), but any information I have, I'd gladly share! I had come across Clough42's channel (and many others - oh so many! Turns out, information about an iHSV57 conversion is kind of spotty. Maybe I should make a video about what I did...) before I started my conversion, but it ultimately ended up being about a different motor than I had in mind. Still, his channel in general is a decent resource of information!
@@uptimefab7412 Should you end up with iHSV57s, I recommend making sure they're v6. Reportedly, that version's auto PID tuning removes much of the hassle!
The methode I used was to use a micrometer with the largest range I have at home, measured travelled versus programmed distance and adjusted the pulses/mm parameters accordingly.
Hi, it would indeed be nice to do some more videos on the router, but I have been working more on my lathe and other projects. Of there is something interesting to share I will make a new video. The wiring diagram was updated with the last video so it should represent the current state. Let me know if you miss anything specific. Best, Robin
Thank you for the fast reply Robin. I just didn't understood if I have 6 proximity limit switches. How to wire them. And did you used gx16 connector also for the spindle? My spindle has 8Amps. The connectors are able to pass 5Amps. So I guess I have to wire them directly to the inverter. Best regards Selim
Hi, you could wire the end switches in parallel, so you could use 1 input for switches at both sides of the axis. I am not sure from the top of my head if the controller has seperate inputs. The spindle should i deed not be connected to gx16 plug. At the end of video 3 I am showing a larger plug for use with the spindle.
No sorry, I salvaged this from the old controller. Similar models can be found from typical sources like Amazon and AliExpress. I am not an expert on emi filters so I can't recommend a specific model. Check video from Clough42 on EMI. He also has a link to a model from Amazon.
Thats awesome video, thanks! im having problems with my CNC. When i turn on the system, the step motors on Y axis change position just a little bit i can see the gear moving over the guide. Any idea what is going on ?
Thanks! This is an odd issue. In order to move visually it would need to receive a significant amount of pulses from the controller which does not seem logical. If it is only at startup and only on the Y axis I would try to swap the connectors between the Y and X axis. If the X axis now has the same issue it is the controller, otherwise it is the stepper driver. If it is the controller make sure it is not performing some type of homing cycle. This is all I can think of with the available information. Hope you can locate the source of the problem.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you mate! I checked and the X axis is doing the same thing. I was thinking that could be some left over power and when start up that would move the motor. Also i understand the pulses and maybe that would be sit between the pulses, not sure about this though ... just a brainstorm im doing... i was looking on internet and saw some pull up and pull down resistors that maybe could help when starts... not sure either... gonna keep looking cheers!
Great catch! Yes, it came loose from the connector. I saw this as well afterwards and have already resoldered it. Hope it stays in place this time :) Maybe RJ45 is the easier option.
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Hello, I'm from Brazil and I'm written on your channel. I have this controller and I'm having a hard time. the stepper motors are turning upside down how can i solve?
Hi, you can use parameters #390 up to #392 to change the direction for each axis. Change from 0 to 1 or vice versa if your axis is moving in the wrong direction. For my specific machine X is low (0) and Y and Z are high (1), but this may vary per machine.
Hi! Love this series! I bought a second hand cnc router that has a ddcs v2.1 but the limit switches are not connected. They are allready wired in serial and it looks like you did the same or? Could i connect one end to ground and the second to limit x- and brindge this to limit x+? I guess i will try this if i cant find an answer somewhere. Best regards!
Thanks! I only use homing switches on my machine, not limit switches. Also mine are each hooked up to their own input, but I am sharing a negative common wire. On the DDCS v3.1 all homing switches and limit switches have their own input, I assume it is the same on the v2.1. However, in if you want to avoid running additional cables I can imagine you want them in series. I think this is possible but not sure. When in series (only works with normally closed pin of the switches) each axis gets a signal if only one switches is activated. This should be fine as you just want it to give an error regardless of which axis input triggers it. Try at your own risk:)
Hi, it is the k11-80mm by Rattm motor on AliExpress. I have not used it for making parts yet as I was unable to get 4th axis programs generated in FreeCAD. Decided to let it rest for now until I finish some other projects, so I can't really comment on the performance or durability of the 4th axis.
You are right, forgot to include those in the diagram. I only have one switch on each axis, the home switch. Not using limit switches. The home switches are all connected with one side to COM- (pin1) and the other side to pin24 for X, pin 7 for Y and pin pin27 for Z. On the switch the Normally Closed connector is used, so a loose wire would trip the home signal. Hope this helps.
Bedankt voor je video's, ze helpen mij een heel eind op weg. Vraagje, ik zit er over na te denken om 4 x DIN rail voedingen van Mean Well te gebruiken in plaats van 1 grote voeding. Ik ben niet technisch aangelegen op het gebied van stroom, maar ik denk dat dit wel kan. Ik wil de EDR150 24 v 6.5 A gebruiken voor de 3 A stepper motoren die ik heb. Dat moet toch goed gaan?
Hoi, ik heb ook geen achtergrond in de elektrotechniek, maar probeer er doorheen te komen met wat basiskennis en manuals lezen. Dat gezegd hebbende denk ik dat je wel uit de voeten kunt met de voeding die je noemt. Lijkt me wel wat overgedimensioneerd, maar dit biedt wel ruimte om later door te groeien met dezelfde voeding. Ik vind dit ook een mooi model, qua form factor en lijken ook efficiënt. Als ik geen bestaande voeding had was ik ook voor zoiets gegaan. Is er een reden waarom je voor de EDR kiest ipv NDR? Laatstgenoemde lijkt wat vaker voor te komen en voldoet aan strengere EMI standaard. Ik weet echter niet of dat echt significant van invloed is in een CNC controller. Als je een goede prijs kunt krijgen op een van de modellen zou ik het gewoon proberen. Ik heb ook verhalen gelezen over de nadelen van regulated power supplies bij stepper drivers, maar ook daar betwijfel ik of je problemen krijgt met een normale toepassing. Als je een model ziet dat goedkoper is en dichter in de buurt komt van de 3A dan is dat heet overwegen waard, zeker als je aparte power supplies wilt voor elke motor. Hopelijk kan je hier iets mee. Groeten, Robin
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, tengo un problema con el eje A, al minuto de funcionamiento el driver enciende la luz de falla, revise todas las conecciones y están todas bien, tu sabes que parámetros de la controladora debo cambiar?. Saludos desde Chile
Hi, I ran your question through Google translate because I don't speak spanish: ----------- Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I have a problem with the A axis, after a minute of operation the driver turns on the fault light, I checked all the connections and they are all good, do you know what controller parameters I should change? Greetings from Chile ---------- My reply: I connected the driver the same way as for the other axes (besides the encoder). For the calculation of steps per rotation please see the PDF in the article linked in the description of the video. Other than that is should work. For trouble shooting you could swap the stepper driver with the one from a different axis just to verify if the driver itself is not the issue. (then test both swapped drivers on their new axis) Does the driver also fault out if you don't move the axis? Also you could check what happens if you remove the belt from the stepper and run a program. This will tell you if the motor might be overloaded by your application or belt/axis assembly. Hope this helps. Robin
Hi. How did you get the closed loop to work with this controller? I’m having issues after connecting new closed loop stepper and driver. Doesn’t work at all. Can’t get it to work in open setting without encoder too. Works fine with regular steppers and drives.
Hi, the connection for a closed loop driver is exactly the same: 2 for direction and 2 for pulse. Are you sure you have all 4 wires connected correctly and that they are making proper contact? You can also check if you driver is faulty by a cheap "pulse generator for stepper driver" or even manually generating pulses with an external power source.
Hi, the wire gauge on CAT6 should be around AWG23, which is too small for the high current line from stepper driver to the motor. You can however use CAT6 for signal lines from controller to stepper driver or for the closed loop signal line. For my steppers I use 0.75mm^2 (AWG18). I have read people running NEMA 23 on diameters as small as AWG22, but I don't see any reason to use smaller wire gauge since even high quality shielded wire is quite cheap. Hope this helps.
@@uptimefab7412 It does! I was just hoping for a more plug and play connector solution. I'm also into Amateur radio and we use those round plugs for microphone and some power connections. Very tricky to solder and even worse with my eyesight. I may have to come up with something else. If 18 or 16 ga wire is fine I may try using Anderson Powerpoles. 30 amp handling each on the pins. I like the idea of a standalone controller. Trying to buy all my other parts now though. 2.2kw spindle and VFD with pump. Ball screws and such.
Agreed, soldering connectors can be a pain. I also like the CAT6 connectors, I would also prefer these over gx16 for low current signal wires. Problem is if you have a cable without the CAT connector and you have to crimp it yourself. In that case it is almost as difficult as soldering (for me)
I am fascinated with this, following your idea, it does something similar, it works for me, but I have 2 concerns, the first, how do you connect the keyboard, via USB to the ddcs? I am referring to commands in the ddcs, the Bluetooth indicator on the keyboard lights up intermittently, but does not connect, and the second, the surge suppressor diode, I am not clear about its function, thank you for sharing your knowledge, att León Anchislavsky
Hi, thank you for your feedback. I am using a Logitech keyboard (k270)with a wireless USB dongle. It is not Bluetooth but some proprietary wireless dongle. This works fine, I have not tried any Bluetooth USB dongles. For the surge suppressor it is best to refer you to the Siemens manual that has a complete section devoted to the various types and their pros and cons. See link below, section 9.6, page 311. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=support.industry.siemens.com/cs/attachments/60306557/manual_SIRIUS_contactors_3RT_en-US.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjovZOoooT3AhXLs6QKHRZLCn8QFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1hhSo0RpGK6QLc0xdcTeDb
Thanks! I have a mechanical engineering background, but my knowledge on electronics is quite basic. However, I like to figure out how stuff works. Most information comes from online research and by reading manuals.
Hi, it should be possible to command a tool change and modify the routine for this by editing the T.nc file. I have not tested this. Please check the Facebook group, there are many posts on that topic there. Google for " Facebook digital dream CNC"
It depends on how much you can reuse from an old controller. Everything new would be over 1.000 euro. I did not keep track of pricing so I do not have a specific number. Things add up quickly with many small parts.
Hi, the Bill of materials including the things added in part 3 can be found in the website article linked in the description of the video. Scroll down in the article or search on the page for "bill"
Have been looking at these controller's. What geode post processor do they use? Mach3 and Linux cnc are supported by most programs like fusion 360. But can never find what code flavour these want.
excellent work, I ask you some questions: 1- which motor do you recommend, step motors or servo motor? 4- about Controller, for a professional use, which one do you suggest me buy? maybe DDCS V3.1 ,AXBB-E , Centroid 4 axis Acorn?, Arduino, or some other? What is the difference between them ? 5. which is better or the difference of using Ball Screw nut BK/BF12 or Timing Belt ? Which is faster ? thank very much
1 for a hobby router (closed loop) steppers are fine, if you have the money and want faster quieter motor with more advanced position controller go for servos. I would love to have them on my machine but got me it doesn't make sense. Having said that, I have bought a lot of stuff before that did not make sense. 4 the first 3 you mention should all be fine from what I read. Just see what you personal preferences are regarding form factor, use of PC, connections etc. I also had Masso controller on my short list. You can attach your own touch screen to this. Like I said it is personal, I would not want to push the DDCS on anyone, that is just what I bought. 5 belts vs lead screws: I only have experience with the lead screw. Check out CNCzone forum. There is a discussion with pros and cons for both. Depends on application as well. For larger travel also rack and pinion is used.
Excellent build, question from a total newbie to cnc. How is your enclosure performing? and I have bought a RatRig 1500mm x 1000mm cnc will this enclosure system work ok with it?
Hi Paul, thanks! I was not familiar with the RatRig systems but just looked them up. A system like mine should work, but make sure you size the components (power supply, VFD, contactor) appropriately based on the stepper motors and spindle you are using for your system.
Thanks for reply can I ask do you have an overall cost of what it has cost you to date, the only difference I think I will make is the new Expert model but I’d buy everything you have in your enclosure
Highly depends on where you buy your components, but things add up quickly if you count every switch, power supply etc... My guess is around 1000 euro, but I did not keep track of the cost. Making your own controller is not cheaper than buying one I guess, but you have freedom of choice for the components you use and knowledge of how it works, which was the main reason for me.
Hi, this might be possible, but I think this would require another post processor and a way to interface with the laser input. Not plug and play. I am not sure you would want to do this from a safety perspective (needs suitable enclosure). I assume you are aware of the risks, please be careful. Interesting idea though.
@@uptimefab7412 Hi! Of course, laser is dangerous and my idea is to make a little enclosure, and of course wearing safety glasses. Also, recenly I saw a video from a youtuber called DIY Builds, and he use a switch to swap from the laser to the milling, but i dont get it hahaha. Im searching for a controller that can suit both of them at the same time. Thanks for the response, btw!
Hello, I wonder if this controller is interactive like Mach3 ? Meaning is it possible to type Gcode in a command prompt let's say to cut a straigth line? Thanks
Hi, there is no real MDI mode on the controller, but there is something that comes quite close. Under the file menu in the DDCS you can create a new file, type your commands in that file, save it and run it. Note that this is only possible when you plug in a USB keyboard into to the controller.
@@uptimefab7412 Ok Thanks, In parrallele I asked in the facebook forum and they respond " go to Program menu and create a new gcode , then Edit, or use the MDI menu for one line gcode....
If the DDCS V3.1 has an MDI mode that would be very nice. I have not been able to find it. There is also no mention of this in the manual. Are you sure they were referring to the V3.1 and not the expert model? If you do manage to find out if it also works on the V3.1 please let me know, would be a nice option to have.
hi do you know what aviation connector i can on my 1.5kw spindle ive been looking ate them and they all seem to be rated at 5A but iam sure that that is tool low, i want to put my vfd in a enclosure like you and use a aviation connector like you have for easy connection,any advice appreciated thanks
Hi, the gx16 can I indeed not handle the current required for the spindle. As an alternative you could use a ws20 connector shown in video part3 around the 22.40 time mark. This should be able to handle 25 amps. Of course this is just one of the possible options. It is really available on AliExpress.
thanks for the reply i ordered an "HangTon WS20 4 Pin Aviation Circular Bulkhead Connector 25A Cable Plug Socket Dustproof for Industrial Power Electrical Light LED 12awg Wire" this morning off amazon for the spindle and ordered some of those 5A aviation connectors for my high torque nema 23's and limit switches hopefully they will be ok for that. I could see a amature making some stupid mistake building this type of project. Really dangerous. @@uptimefab7412
Good question, I don't know why I don't have issues as I am not able to measure EMI. I placed the VFD as far away as possible from the stepper drivers, but they are still quite close in this compact cabinet. It seems to work though. In forums I have read that other people have the VFD inside the cabinet without any issues. On the other hand there are people that indicate that you cannot have the VFD in the same cabinet. A lot of conflicting information on this topic. This is why I decided to place the VFD inside the box until I do find issues with EMI. A trade off between effort and risk of issues. I will place an update if there are any issues. Do you have a separate box for the VFD or just more space in the controller box?
@@uptimefab7412 I have my vfd about 3 ft away. Even with that just having my spindle cable in the drag chain with the motor and endstop cables caused stuttering. I do have shielded wire also. when my spindle cable is on its own, everything works perfect so. It might just be the nicer components you used. Mine is entirely aliexpress
Wow those are some serious noise issues. Do you have a ferrite ring around the cable? Mine has the 3 spindle leads wound around a ferrite ring right after the VFD. This should be visible in video 1. I assume you also have an EMI line filter installed? On the other hand it might just as well be the type of VFD.
Hola, gracias por responder a mis preguntas, podrías decirme si es posible, continuar un trabajo desde una línea de códigos,. Al quedar sin energía eléctrica, para no empezar todo el trabajo nuevamente. Gracias espero lo entiendas. Saludos amigo desde Chile
For my application it works fine. I would have liked to have wifi or LAN. The newer 4.1 version does have LAN. Also my controller doesn't have a lot of customizable IO, but for my simple router it has all I need. The 4.1 has some other interesting upgrades, listed on their website, might be worth to check out. Also the plus model is interesting if you have the space and additional cash. The key pad on my model is a bit fragile, not industrial quality, bit that is to be expected for this price.
It really depends on the use case. If size is not an issue or if you need more advanced functions that the expert provides like tool a tool changer or 5 axes then the expert might be a good choice. I also like the fact that you can get an external keypad for this. I think the downside of the one I have but also the v4.1 that there are only a few keys, so you end up with multiple button presses for functions like homing. I think overall, if you don't want to outgrow your controller and want to get the most of it go for the expert. But if your main goal is to get your machine working and the v4.1 has what you need, go for that option. Also the expert is quite a bit larger, so you will need a bigger enclosure.
Hi friend sorry to be bothering you more I have a problem. in the straight cuts it is firing and where there is a very slow curve, it burns the mdf. which parameters to use. and what is your post processor?
Hi, no problem. Since you mention slow corners and burnt material, it indeed seems to be a feed rate that is too low for your specific tool diameter and RPM, causing less deep cuts/re-cutting/rubbing and thereby generates heat. It might be that your machine is not capable of maintaining high feed in corners due to acceleration settings. In that case increase acceleration or if this does not work for you machine use a lower spindle RPM. Also make sure that inner corners are not very close to the tool diameter. In that case you can't really achieve a proper feed, since it needs to change direction inside a corner. Another option is to take smaller depth passes, which allow for chip evacuation. I use Fusion360 with Mach3 post. As far as I can see Fusion360 only has an option to reduce feed rates in tight corners, which would not help in this case, since you are not breaking end mills, but are instead experiencing burnt material. I hope the suggestions mentioned above help reduce the issue. Robin
@@uptimefab7412 Friend thanks for your attention. It is my first homemade CNC but I made it very robust with nema 34 engines of 85kg on the Y and X axes 2005 spindles and on the z spindle of 1605 3hp spindler engine. I believe that I am not able to configure the parameters of the controller. what is happening is that in straight cuts it is very fast to the point of breaking the cutter and in a curve going very slow. if possible you could send the configuration of your controller parameters to the email loja_startgames@hotmail.com thank you very much friend
Hi, the only changes I made to the controller are mentioned in the PDF in the website article. The rest is at factory default settings. For acceleration check 2031 (I have zero), 99 (I have 300 mm/s^2), 45-48 are all set to 300 in my case. Note I did not change these from factory settings. However, given your additional description, please check your G-code just to make sure the arcs in the corner are not actually programmed with a lower feed rate. In that case you should look at your CAM software. Also check the other things I mentioned like tool diameter being close to your programmed inner radius.
I'm doing this on mine as well (i'm going to 3d print a bracket so I can screw it to the side of my control box). It turns out my VFD is too long and the door won't close unless I cut a hole for it. I guess reduced electrical noise is a Plus
The spindle RPM is not monitored at all by the controller. The VFD makes sure it runs at the correct RPM, based on the 0-10V signal from the DDCS. This is very reliable and perfectly linear, unless you are asking too much from the spindle in terms of power needed for your cut. The DDCS V3.1 is quite basic, if you need more features, they also have more advanced models, not sure if they support an encoder.
I was going to buy the ddcs v3.1 but realised that It's not quite usefull for my cnc servo motors. Meaning it can't handle alarm signal coming from the drivers. Though It's not an essential fonction I'd be nice to use the full option the servo motors offer. I recently came accross the DDCS EXPERT controller which have this option. Do you know if this controller is as good as the DDCS V3.1 or It's one of the buged chinese new devices to say away of ? Thanks
Hi, I do not have experience with the DDCS expert, but it seems like a nice option. In fact, if it would have been available when I was looking for a controller I would probably have gone for the expert or plus version. They both have more functionality, but at the cost of a higher price and larger dimensions. They are made by the same company as the DDCS V3.1. Perhaps users in the digital dream Facebook group have shared their experiences with one of the newer controllers, would be a good place to check. Robin
@@uptimefab7412 thanks a lot for your feeback. I'll check with them. I thinks the DDCS V3.1 is just great for stepper motors. Anyway you've made excellent videos very usefull. Great help ! Thanks
Hi, although is has 4 axes unfortunately the 4th axis cannot be reassigned to be a second Y axis. I have seen this feature requested on forums before but I do not think they are going to add the feature to this specific controller. Unfortunate, because this would be useful for a lot of people with dual Y axis motors.
Not sure if I understand your question correctly. Do you mean the zero position for each axis? In that case: zero is the point where the end switch triggers when backing off from the switch. The size of the work area you can define yourself by typing in a number that matches the travel for each axis, minus a small number for safety. If you meant something else let me know. Robin
Hi, the Total cost highly depends on how many components you reuse from an old controller, but I spent over 1000 euros. It might be possible to do it for less, but you would have to get more creative with the used components. (Like not replacing stepper drivers or using a 2nd hand enclosure for example).
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks for your reply. I knew that this system should cost a lot of money, even you're reusing components you already have. Really nice work !
A closed feedback loop is actually created by having an encoder that is constantly compared to another encoder on the end of the ball screw or using a glass scale. When one feedback deviates too Far you receive an alarm. Simply having an encoder providing feedback is considered a semi closed loop.
The closed loop systems that are monitored by the controller are very nice, but as far as I am aware not supported by this DDCS controller. For my purposes (hobby machining on a cheap router) the feedback loop between the driver and motor is all I need, but for high end machines it makes sense to go all the way. Thanks for your feedback!
I suggest double checking any shielding or grounding info gained from corvette guy 50. Shielding a cable with a drain wire and pigtail is no longer an acceptable practice. If you machine had to be designated EMI efficient for one of your customers you could never obtain this certification using pigtails.
Thanks for commenting, CNC is an expensive hobby indeed. There might be cheaper options, but if you want to make something out of separate components it quickly becomes this expensive. It is quite rewarding though when it actually works.
Hi John, mounting the VFD in the control box is indeed not best practice. I already left warnings about this in the comments and the website article regarding EMI. So I do not recommend doing this. However, I have not seen any issues in my specific case. Also my lathe works without issues with the VFD in the same cabinet as the other components. Note that in both cases I do have a noise filter for the mains line and a ferrite ring on the UVW lines. As I understand many hobbyists have the VFD in the same enclosure. It is hard to find any specific documentation on installation requirements for what components you are allowed to have near a VFD. Most is anecdotal. If you know if any good online source or manual please let know. Would be useful for future hobby projects. Thank you for bringing this up. Cheers, Robin
Hi, I use Fusion360 with the standard Mach3 mill post processor. Transfer is done with a USB stick as this model unfortunately does not have any network connectivity. I believe some other DDCS models do have LAN.
Excellent build overview video, with all the details you provide.
If I may make a few suggestions. The VFD installed inside your enclosure exposes the drives, and breakout board to large amounts of EMI which may create system stability issues even with an EMI filter with oversea drives. The other area to review is your non-conductive enclosure which prevents it from producing a Faraday cage effect around the electronics, and prevents the enclosure itself from being grounded. Once again these are simply my suggestions based on my past experiences, but your work's detail is some of the best I've seen on UA-cam. The grounding you implemented is very well done for your components.
Fantastic job, and thank you again for your support.
Have a great weekend! Vince
Hi Vince, great to see you came across my channel and took the time to evaluate this project. I learned a lot from your videos on grounding and other CNC related topics. The VFD in the cabinet and the plastic enclosure are both compromises to make the threshold for this type of project as low as possible. Having said this, it is not ideal for the reasons you mentioned, grounding and EMI. I will definitely consider using a metal enclosure for my next project, especially if it includes a VFD. An option for this project might be a metal "satellite" box for the VFD.
I will update the pinned comment with your tips. Thanks! Robin
That's a fantastic idea, but I certainly wouldn't change a thing if she's stable. I always believe in mitigating problems be fore they become one as nothing is more irritating then a system that's unstable randomly.. You really did a great job, and I really appreciate your support.
If you ever need anything just let me know.
Thank you again, and have a great weekend!
Vince
Between this series and a few videos from clough42, I’m feeling much more confident in my abilities to build my cnc
I watch his channel as well. He has really good videos and learned a lot from him.
Thank you for your effort in the build you left me know that this was the best way to go. I have been sitting on the fence trying to decide which way to proceed but you explained the process very clear and sounded like you had all bases covered. Once again Thank You for your time.
Best of luck in future en divers.
Peter . Qld , Australia
Appreciate you creating this video series as I had purchased the controller but at the time there was very little practical information on it.
Thank you so much for this series! I'm currently building out my own electronics for my first CNC and your guide has been invaluable. Great job on your project!
I’m doing the exact same thing right now. I’ve literally been pouring over these videos and schematics the past few nights as a build up my BoM. I was so excited to see this upload
Great to see it is useful for you guys, that makes it worthwhile for to make these types of videos. Just updated the wiring diagram last night. Let me know if you see any errors or other things that need clarification.
Shielded cables. Drive a ground rod to create your grounding system. And servo motors. .
I like the contactor coil surge suppression! You should consider a reactor on the input voltage side or on both input and output. If you ever get a chance to look into a high end CNC machine you will notice that they no longer use drain wires and a pigtail for shielding. You need a plate that is bonded with ground and this plate shall have clamps that will provide a 360deg shield. The old pigtail method is antiquated and no longer in use. It creates higher impedance for the shield ground especially when passing it through a cannon connector.
That control box is a work of art!! Thanks for sharing all the details with us! Your presentation and photography are excellent, too. Please let us know what you make with your CNC.
Thanks! I have used my CNC for cutting wooden toys, some fixtures and halftone photo milling. I am not nearly using it as much I would like though. I have it upstairs and without enclosure, so noise is an issue. One of my next projects would be an enclosure, which would enable me to use it more frequently.
Very useful series... Totally good setup. This is cost effective, practically doing people don't criticise your videos. Simply grate.
Thank you for your kind feedback! If you do find any issues let me know, no problem! And indeed this is not an industrial controller, just for the home machine.
Another great video! Just a note that in some VFD manuals it is recommended to ground the motor (spindle) with a separate wire from the three core power - so what you had done was correct. Along with that to loop the power wires through a ferrite core as close as you can to the VFD helps suppress interference as well.
Thanks, I did not know that. So I might leave it like this a bit longer than I anticipated. The ferrite is close to the VFD, so good to see that can stay as well.
- Shielded cable going though metal (GX16) plugs: it is preferred to wrap the shielding back around the cable so it comes in contact with the (GX16) connector. No extra pin needed. In that case the connector can be grounded through a metal mounting plate or complete metal housing.
- Consider using a metal enclosure and placing the VFD in a separate metal enclosure, for EMI containment and easier grounding.
- Check power rating for your specific components (VFD and power supply) to see which type of mains connector and fuse you should use. C14 connectors are rated to a maximum of 10amps at 250VAC. One of the possible alternatives is to not use a connector but instead a cable gland and an appropriately rated fuse inside the box or panel mounted fuse holder. Also consider CEE type wall plug if the rating of your wall outlet is not sufficient for your components.
- Using shielded cables for the stepper motors also on the outside of the cabinet reduces the chance EMI issues.
- most VFDs have a built in relay, which can also be used to switch a coolant pump.
Heyy nice video! Are you gonna build a full CNC?
Building a CNC machine is something I would really like to do. No concrete plans though.
@@uptimefab7412 Some inspiration for you Robin.... Watch the MAXI CNC Router build done by the Australian guy Roger Webb. I am building the identical CNC but will be using your electrical schematics instead of Roger's or maybe a bit of both. Great job on your project. Bruce.
Hi Bruce, thanks for the tip! I will have a look at his project later today. Best of luck with your project. Good to get information from multiple sources indeed. Marty's CNC garage is also a good one.
Robin
Nice update and fixes.
Coolant side,
1. try to remove the kinks by using a waterproof cable gland strain relief connectors cord grips
2. do you have a coolant level alarm
1. Absolutely right, the coolant lines look terrible with all the kinks. Somehow the water does make its way through. Thanks for the tip!
2. No I don't have an alarm. Would be nice though. For now I will have to rely on noticing issues myself. I never leave it alone while running, hope I can catch any failures by paying attention.
Robin
This series is amazing. Genuinely want to thank you!
Also, wanted to say thank you for explaining in detail the differences between a closed loop and open loop steppers! That was so helpful for me! Thank you!
Hello Robin
Very fine workmanship. Well done!
I am in the process of building my CNC machine and I have chosen to use the DDCS v3.1 controller.
The issue I am running into concerns the limit and homing switches.
My plan was to use the left/rear/upper limits of the machine also as home position.
The left (X--), rear (Y--) and upper (Z++) are not only connected to the linit terminals of the DDCSV but also (with a wire jumper) to the home terminals of the controller to not only serve as travel limits but also as home sensors.
I am using Hall Effect proximity switches as sensors. When the magnets come into range, I get a 12 volt signal at the corresponding input terminal.
Here is the problem(s):
1. None of the limit switches stops the travel
2. When the gantry is in the Y-- (home) position, it kills the output to the Y-axis stepper driver in the Y++ direction
I have experimented with all combinations and permutations of the Home and Limit parameters (soft limits are disabled).
I wonder if you could share the parameter settings for home and limit. It is very difficult to find information on line and the manual is difficult to interpret.
Thanls in Advance
Hi, thanks for the compliment! My situation is a bit different than for your machine, but here are my parameters: #50: Ignore Home, #51: Disable, #52-54: Enable. The manual states that #51 needs to be disabled when sharing the switch between home and limit. I also have it disabled, but don't use limit switches. But that setting seems to be important. I am not sure if you have seen notes A and B on page 68 of the manual, but they seem to apply for your setup. Also, have you tested your switches without combining home and limit? If you first test them by only connecting to home you can rule out a faulty switch or connection. Hope this helps, Robin
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks Robin. I like your suggestion to separate home & limit functions. I need to re-read the manual as well.
I will post a reply about my results.
Just went back to the controller to further look into this. Settings #116 - #119 are also worth a look. Mine says home signal for all of these settings, but for you setting these to 1 or 2 might work (forward / reverse limit signal). Another thing to help trouble shooting is the IO screen that can be accessed by pressing the "toolpath" button a couple of times. The signals are a bit counter intuitive here: for me the home switches are all set to "high" under settings #60 - 62. For me this means they are always high unless they are pressed during homing, then they are low. Manually activate your switches while in this screen. Might help shed some light on the situation. Have to agree there are quite a lot of settings around homing and limits, so it is not trivial. Again, hope you can get it to work.
@@uptimefab7412 I decided to begin from scratch so I disabled the homing function and disconnected all home wires in the controller. Then I used the MPG to jog the machine into the limits then trace the signal back to the terminals in the controller. In this way I was able to determine that the X+ and X- signal wires were crossed in the controller. Likewise the Y+ and Y- signal wires. In this condition the home function would never work correctly. Now the limit switches are working as intended and getting the home function to work should be straightforward. I am a very happy camper!
Good to see you found the issue and that it is now working. Wiring can be a pain sometimes. Best of luck with the rest of your project!
Hi, normally, the proper way to deal with shielded cables and GX (or any metallic connectors) is wrapping the shielding around the plastic cable sleeve to ensure a contact between the connector cage and the shielding... So no need for extra pin. The female connector of the case has to be grounding (easier with metallic case)
This is what I thought as well, but saw some information that it was better to route the ground wire through the connector to the central ground point and not to the case at the location of the connector to avoid ground loops, but your option does seem to make sense. Especially with a metal housing, thanks for the tip.
Hey! Very interesting topic, thanks for that.
Whether male GX connector shielding is also required, this will go into the stepper motor? Are steppers need to be grounded and how?
The general consensus is that the wires going from the controller cabinet out to the stepper motors should be shielded and the shield grounded to the central grounding point or to the cabinet if you have a metal cabinet. My machine already had non-shielded wires installed and I have not replaced them (yet). Will do so when I have time or run into EMI issues. I do have the stepper cables inside the cabinet shielded and grounded since I installed these new myself. If you are starting from scratch I would say ground the shield for all stepper wires inside and outside the cabinet.
Excellent series. Detailed and very well explained. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and for sharing.
Great upgrade, excellent video. I hope to upgrade my CNC on similar lines. If you want high repeatability in limit switches, consider using an optical limit switch, they are dead accurate
Thanks for the tip!
Nice video. I wish you would list the parts and link to suppliers. It would be so much easier for those who go shopping.
Hi Jim, please see the link below the video to the website article about this project. It contains all parts including brand and model. If there is an international supplier like AliExpress it is also listed. For generic parts form brands like Siemens or phoenix contact I have not listed the supplier because people can get them cheaper locally by just searching for the part.
Cheers, Robin
UptimeFab , thank you for that precision. I hadn't try the link. Very useful.
@@uptimefab7412 A LOT of parts are not shown, but with some research it's easy to find most of it.
Thanks a million for such a great explanation!
On the DC power wires, you should twist the two wires together which provides a certain amount of self shielding, and cancels out any emi that is present on the power leads.
Great tip, thank you! The best thing is that you would only need a bit longer wires.
thank you for all of these videos
can you please send the full detailed wiring diagram?
thank you in advance
The updated wiring diagram can be found in the PDF file in the website article tinker in the description of the video
The VFD usually has a built in relay. You can program it, if it's running the spindle the relay is ON. Turn OFF with delay.
M7 M8 mist and coolant for the tool cooling.
Great tip, thanks! That is indeed also a great way to switch a pump (and what that relay is probably meant for). Just checked, my vfd has a built in relay as well.
@@uptimefab7412 Yes, it's for the pump, or for other needs. (vacuum cleaner for dust suck)
This is an awesome build I have been following since 1. I think your system is nicer than anything I’ve seen on corvette 50. You will know if your system is sufficiently grounded if you can run that VFD in the cabinet and not have any problems with noise.
You should check with a hydraulics shop and ask for a tubing that is rated for flexing. I’m afraid you are going to have a huge mess on your hands with that liquid cooled spindle. If that is the same coolant we use on Mazak CNC machines I know it’s not cheap.
If that’s rv coolant you need to purge immediately. Lol
Very good presentation and nicely-organized! Lots of useful information, and it was helpful in planning my own DDCS setup.
Make sure your watercooling lines are free of kinks. I noticed they are restricted at the exit of the motor and at the tank. Fish tank pumps do not have enough power to overcome a bent hose. You can use a big spring around the hose to prevent bending
Hi, thanks for the tip. The kinks in the the tubing is definitely something that should be fixed. Somehow it never made it from the action list into reality to fix this. Really like your suggestion to use springs. Should be quite straight forward to install.
Thank you for this series. I have similars needs, so will be building a similar controller
You definitely need to protect coolant hoses from bending. And maybe add some radiator, because it's can be not enough.
Thanks, totally agree on the bend protection. Regarding the coolant tank size, this works for me but probably because I only use it for short periods of time.
Thank you for the great video, you did a great job, and very neat work. I'm not going to tell you that you did anything wrong, so that I may distinguish my comment from many of the other viewers :) Thank you for the information, i'm going to use a lot of this when I build my enclosure next week.
Thank you for your kinds words. Constructive criticism is good but constructive non-criticism is even better;)
great video!!! i have a question, how do you connecting the husillo motor, othe question, the motor working with continuous current?
Hi, I assume you mean stepper motor? If you put any 2 wires together when manually rotate the motor and find resistance while roatating you have found a coil pair, call that A, then the other pair is B. Or easier, check online at supplier for which colors are used for each coil. Yes it is a continuous current as is typical for open loop stepper motors.
nice project and thanks :) but for box you could use metal pc case ,it is big and have space for psu where you can put vfd to move him from drivers even more (case have some metal separating pcu from rest) ,plus it is metal so you have free grounding
Thanks for the tip! That is indeed a great way to reuse an old PC case. Good for the environment and your wallet.
Excellent explanation and useful for everyone. Thanks
very nicely done. I have done a build that's 99% done but its a lot more rudimentary than yours. You make me want to redo everything.
My bed is 2m x 2m and my Z travel is 300mm to allow for my 4th axis
Thank you! That is an incredible working area by the way. Would like a bigger router as well but I would never be able to fit that in my hobby space.
@@uptimefab7412 its frustrating to hear you just speak information all the time and I spend hours looking for it 😆 it would be nice if I could drop you some questions please?
Sure, no problem. I will also not have an answer for every question but I will do my best to help.
@@uptimefab7412 so my Z home is at the top, which is +275.00 (homing direction is positive). When I use the main screen and navigate Goto, to move the Z down 100mm to test calibration, I am not able to change the + to a - . the Z only wants to keep going up. I am scared to make my Z home at the bottom. and if I do a test job the gap above material is set to 20mm. when I run the job the Z just drives up into the stop. any advice please?
Hi, I am also homing the Z at the top and that works fine, so it should also be possible on your machine. For trouble shooting I would start with the basics. If you manually jog the axis down with the Z- key or an MPG is it indeed moving in the right direction? If not you can swap the direction on the stepper driver or with a parameter in the DDCS (#392). If the axis moves away from the sensor instead of towards it when homing change parameter #66. Try to look at each thing step by step, what is working and what isn't?
12:00 Do you have an online source for the lather assembly? That is exactly what I need! Thanks!
Look for RATTM motor supplier on AliExpress. This is where I bought mine, but other suppliers on Ali might have the same unit.
This was just great. I have similar cabinet waiting for my four closed loop stepper drivers and all the other stuff.
Grounding issue was interesting. Did you have issues of interference before doing the modifications?
re cabling all the stuffs with shielded cables afterward is pain in the a**. And interferences issues are difficult to track. So far better to properly ground all elements : shielded cable, frame, ....
Would indeed have been a lot easier to do this right from the beginning. Did not have any issues, but made some changes anyway to make sure I also have less chance of issues further down the road.
@@uptimefab7412 Hmm. I already bought the cables. Only the closed loop encoder cable is shielded... I wonder if stepper motor drive cable is prone to interference... there’s some power going there anyway.
I assume interference is less of an issue with the stepper cable than with the encoder cable. It would be strange if they would try to save a few cents on shielded wire for the motor cable if it would be very susceptible to this issue. Also if it does loose a step the encoder will detect this. We'll see how it performs. All of my open loop stepper cables are unshielded on the outside of the cabinet as well.
@@uptimefab7412 sounds reasonable. But I have to make sure that the cable shield is connected to grounding. Thanks for taking up this matter. :)
I'm finishing the design of my VMC(mechanical), but I absolutely have no idea about electronics, been to university twice and failed even simple circuit analysis. Did you use any guides or step-by-step when designing the electronics system? Many thanks for the series anyway!
I pulled information from various sources, mainly user manuals (DDCS manual is very useful, check digital dream website), other part manuals, forums and tutorial videos. Also, even though I do not have a background in electronics I have a basic understanding of some fundamentals. It might seem daunting, but just take it one step (component) at a time.
Nice time to start thinking about next project on servo and linuxcnc :)))
Thanks for the tip! Would be great to experiment with servo motors. For now I have another project lined up. Just bought an Emco turn 50 with electronics removed and already bought a SZGH controller for it, sorry no linux.....
Maybe for another project, linux CNC seems like a good system, but at the moment it seems I am in a chinese controller phase :)
@@uptimefab7412 sure:) ...you need some time to play with this....but mesa cards for $300 (7i92 + 7i77) (thunk it's cost of your controller) can give you incredible functionality and all modern gcode features....perfect postprocessors for CAM and network acees to machine ( nice to save gcode from CAM directly to machine:) Also it needed it You start thinking about ATC :)
I will start dreaming about an ATC :)
Thank you so much the very detailed step by step video guide. It is awesome! I'm in the process of gathering all the components and an enclosure. I would like to know what gauge wires should one use all the different low voltage DC cabling between the psu's and the signal wires from the motor drives to the DDCS etc and the 4 core shielded cables you have used for connecting the GX16 connectors. Because shielded cables comes in various gauges, if you happen to know how many strands per wire and thickness might be helpful. In my case I will be using a simple Arduino Uno3 with a screw terminal shield.
Hi, I use 22AWG (0.34mm^2) for signal wires and 18 AWG(0 75mm^2) for DC power to stepper drivers and the stepper motor cables. For my components this should be sufficient. If you want to formally determine required wire gauge sizes then you can calculate based on wire length and voltage drop, in that case more information is available online. The number of strands is not important, just the diameter. I use flexible wires (multiple instead of single strand) everywhere. For signal wires there is also a practical aspect. You could use very thin wires but these are difficult to handle. ( Small ferrules are difficult to keep attached, wires can break etc). Hope this helps a bit.
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you for your reply. I had a real of 4 core plus shield alarm cable and was planning to use that for "testing" but i think it is 24AWG 0.22 so a little thin. Like you said they are difficult to handle. I will get the same size that you have used. btw I posted a link to your build on Cindymill Discourse forum so you may get traffic on your blog :)
Haha thanks for sharing. Thicker is not a problem so you could even go up another step depending on what you can get your hands on.
@@uptimefab7412 Yes, i'm having problems getting parts and even common items such as cables are in short supply. I am having to find bits and pieces on ebay.
At long last just got my motor side GX16 connectors soldered and connected to the plug in drivers following the steps you have shown in the video. Moving on to wiring the DC power cables. I forgot to ask earlier what gauge of wire did you use for this purpose?
Did you use 5 pin gx16 connectors to extend the grounding outside the case?
For grounding I ran a separate wire through the case to the spindle to ground the machine. Since you are referring to the gx16 connectors I think you are referring to shielding. I did this only for the closed loop stepper since in my system this is the only stepper with shielded wire. The other wires are not shielded (not my choice but they were already in place when I bought the machine). When I have some time to spare on a rainy day I will probay replace them with shielded cable and use the additional pin. As someone else commented it is better to connect the gx16 on a metal plate and use the housing of the connector itself to pass through the shielding. I hope this rather long response answers your question:)
@@uptimefab7412 sorry, yes I should have been more clear. I was referring to the shielding for the stepper motors. Personally I wouldn’t worry about connecting the shielding to the plate unless you found a version that has the back of the panel connector also shielded.
Have not found any different connectors. So will keep things as they are for now. Thanks for your feedback!
As far as I have seen the shield on the cables outside the box are still not connected, right? You really should see to connect those shields as well as they will act like long antennas and emit a ton of EMI. The outside shield is not cut off, like you did it at 10:56, but bent backwards so that it makes contact with the metal housing of the plug and the sockets are usually connected to the ground. Since you are not using a metal enclosure, you could just put a metal plate inside the controller box and connect that to your ground connector. That way you can ground all sockets without changing too much. If you change over to a metal enclosure, would reduce the EMI considerably, make sure to remove the paint around the sockets on one end otherwise it will not work.
On another note. UA-cam says you are from the Netherlands that would mean that you also have the Type F plugs. They are rated for only one hour at 16A. Your setup is capable of using over 2,6kW so 11A-12A. Especially with older sockets running the 2.2kW VFD + the stepper PSU for longer times, like a big engraving job, might be dangerous due to the fact that the contact resistance might have increased.
At that point I would recommend using a CEE16 Plug and connector. They are designed for 16A continuos load and would reduce the risk.
Also please change the C14 connector. They are also only designed for 10A continuous load. I would also recommend a CEE16 socket there.
Thanks for your detailed tips, much appreciated. For the stepper cables I am indeed still using the unshielded cables that the machine came with. For building a new machine using shielded wires is indeed the best solution since it adds little to no cost but has significant benefits in therms of EMI. I will keep it like this for now until I come across interference issues although I would not recommend it to others as a good option.
In the connectors you also have a good point. I am not expecting to have full engagement with the material for prolonged time and therefore draw more than 10 amps continuously but regardless properly rated connectors should be used. On that note I am also not on a separate group. Appliances drawing large currents should be on their own circuit breaker, not on a general group with other outlets.
@@uptimefab7412 I would be careful there. Especially since an inverter is a load with a bad power factor so the current can be a lot higher than wattage may let you believe. Even my brand VFD has a power factor of just 0,71. i have no ideas how the cheaper ones behave but I would expect worse since filters and snubbers cost money. Have you measured the 10A? It would be interesting to see what your power draw is during an operation. A cheap power measuring device would do the trick.
Also you have the other switchable output so I personally would not take the risk and recommend the 10A connector on UA-cam and the website. At least I would add a low amp fuse in line with the relay so that you do not accidentally overload the connector. You never know how much people know about those things and might accidentally burn their house down. From the pictures I think it should be possible to just add one next to the relay.
And regarding EMI: It is difficult to see where it might cause problems. Might just be noise in the radio or it might cause devices not to work sporadically. Detecting problems caused by EMI is quite difficult since it has as much to do with the source as it has with the sink. LiYCY 4 x 0,75 costs less than 1€/m. Although I would agree with you that it will most likely not be a problem I would at least mention it on the website and the video so that other people know about it in case they run into problems.
@@nukularpictures Hi, I have not measured the power draw of the entire CNC. The C14 connector has a an 8amp fast acting fuse built in, which is covered at the end of the first video. If I understand the typical time current curves for fuses correctly, this should blow if exposed to around 10 amps for any significant amount of time. This should protect both the C14 connector, switched power socket and the wall plug. I also think 8amps is tight for the rated power of the components, but as mentioned in the video it works and it should blow if overloaded, which it has not done so far.
I will put a note in the pinned comment that people should calculate the power needed for their specific components and use appropriate connectors (some use even more powerful steppers or larger 2.2kW spindle).
I am not trying to cover every detail in this series, just the conversion of my specific machine, where I left some things unchanged.
Some solutions like shielded cables for the steppers, VFD in a different metal cabinet, using a metal cabinet for the controller are all better solutions and I would highly recommend them to people. However, I took an approach where I kept some sub-optimal solutions if they did not cause any issues in order to save time. People can choose to go for the better solution and spend a bit more time on their build.
I also hope that if they are seriously considering a build like this they also take a few minutes to go through the comments, where a lot of people, including yourself, have provided very useful advice. I will also make a note about the shielded wire in the pinned comment. Thanks again and let me know if I missed anything.
Коллега, ну и компактно вы всё уложили в шкафу😂
Thank you for the very nice project with a well understandable schematic. Which software did you use to draw the schematic? Thanks in advance. Werner
Thanks! I use inkscape for drawings. This is a freeware program without any ads.
what do you call this machine that measures temperatures thanks for answer
It's a thermal imager. UNI-T model Uti260B. It is a bit more expensive than the entry models, but the extra resolution is well worth it.
Hello, Another question.
Do you know if this DDCS takes care of the backlash?
Thanks
Hi, yes, you can enter a custom backlash compensation value for all axes.
Well done Robin! Did you also ground the machine frame?
And question off topic - are you dutch?
Thanks! At the moment I only have the spindle housing grounded. This has the highest risk due to the high voltage connection of the spindle motor. The rest is low voltage. I have measured and the grounding transfers through to the entire machine, but this is not the proper way to do it, the bed and gantry should be grounded independently as well (I think). Yes I am dutch, hard to hide the accent :)
Hello, Great video!
Could you tel where you bought the framatel enclosure? Thanks
Sure: Vekto.nl
I bought mine from ebay. the part number seems difficult to find in the USA. and it seems like all of the boxes in the same size (or larger) are metal
Hi love the video and information I'm struggling with the home limit switch connection and can't find any videos or wiring in the 1 video said you linked in your page but I can't seem to find it.
Thank you
Hi, thanks! I seem to have omitted the limit switches from the electrical schematic on my website. You can place a limit switch between the appropriate connection and the negative common. To visualize this it is probably best to check the user manual for the ddcs v3.1, section 2.6.2, page 16. The manual can be found on ddcnc.com. the idea is that the switch when pressed, will make a connection between it's assigned input and the negative common. You can select in the settings menu of the controller to have it act as normally open or normally closed. Both are fine but nor ally closed is safer since it will detect a broken cable connection. Once connected you can see the status of the switch in the IO menu. Here you can press the switch and you will see it's input status visualized on the screen. Hope you can get it working with this information. Cheers
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you so much so it would be X home and then the com negative which is pin 1 and then itll register as home when using home all axis?
Yes it should. Just to be safe start the homing cycle and manually press the limit switch to see if the machine responds. If not you will still have time to press the Estop.
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks for the help and responding to my questions. happy building
Can you put that channel you mentioned at the end in the description?
Sure, I have linked two Corvetteguy50 videos in the description that I found very useful.
How would you do the wirings if you're using 3 closed loop stepper motors and drive?
Hi, you could just use the same wiring as in the schematic for the closed loop motor driver and copy that for other closed loop stepper drivers.
hi, great job.
So you connected all the stepper and spindle shields to the AC power ground?
I have to wire the electronics of my cnc and I would like to do things better.
Hi, thanks! Yes, all wire shields, spindle and all other components that have a ground connection are connected to a central point (ground bar). The ground wire from you AC mains cable is also connected to this same ground bar.
Excellent work on this series, I will be referring to it religiously, now that I have decided to get rid of Mach3 for my 6040. The DDCS seems to do exactly what I need, and what bugs me about my combination of cheap breakout board and Mach3.
A question: Have you considered integrated servo motors like the iHSV57? I've used them on my machine, and except for their power requirements being higher (necessitating a new PSU), they were a near drop-in replacement for the steppers. From my limited understanding, the advantage they have is that they maintain their torque over nearly their entire RPM range, whereas steppers lose a lot of torque in the extreme ranges (low and high). Plus, they're closed loop, and at least on my machines, significantly faster.
And even if none of that is appealing, the fact that the driver is mounted to the motor means you would free up significant amounts of space in your cabinet ;)
I was also wondering if it is possible to combine the functionalities of your different e-stops simply by wiring them together. Wire the pendant into the external e-stop circuit so that hitting the pendant will perform the same way as the external one, and vice versa? Would that work?
Hi, thank you for your feedback, good to see it helps other CNC enthousiasts. I am actually looking at servos with integrated controllers for a possible next project. Indeed more toque at higher RPM, but less holding torque at low speeds. I think less torque at low speeds should not be an issue but this depends on the situation. Maybe for a heavy Z-axis it might. The Servos should also run more quiet, for some this might not matter, but I think it is great to have low noise motors instead of the typical stepper noise. Unfortunately I do not have experience with these yet, but night give them a try. On the Clough42 channel James tested a cheap servo in case you had not seen that already. If you are first let me know how it worked out for you!
For the E-stop you could indeed wire the MPG button in series with any other E-stop, should work fine if they are both Normally Closed switches.
@@uptimefab7412 I can confirm that the iHSV57 I use are quieter. I have not had any issues with holding torque, but then again, my cheap 6040 is pretty light to begin with. Only when I turn off power to the motors does the Z axis drop. But that's not a problem. Just have to keep it in mind when you turn the machine off.
If you have questions about the servos, feel free to ask. I'm only a curious amateur (with sometimes poor impulse control), but any information I have, I'd gladly share!
I had come across Clough42's channel (and many others - oh so many! Turns out, information about an iHSV57 conversion is kind of spotty. Maybe I should make a video about what I did...) before I started my conversion, but it ultimately ended up being about a different motor than I had in mind. Still, his channel in general is a decent resource of information!
Thanks for the information, good to see that the servos are working for your 6040. Now I am even more interested in giving them a try!
@@uptimefab7412 Should you end up with iHSV57s, I recommend making sure they're v6. Reportedly, that version's auto PID tuning removes much of the hassle!
How do you calibrate the cnc on the DDCS V3
The methode I used was to use a micrometer with the largest range I have at home, measured travelled versus programmed distance and adjusted the pulses/mm parameters accordingly.
Hello mate. Dou you plan to make a new update to the latest build? Would it be possible to make a wire diagram with the newest parts you build in?
Hi, it would indeed be nice to do some more videos on the router, but I have been working more on my lathe and other projects. Of there is something interesting to share I will make a new video. The wiring diagram was updated with the last video so it should represent the current state. Let me know if you miss anything specific.
Best,
Robin
Thank you for the fast reply Robin. I just didn't understood if I have 6 proximity limit switches. How to wire them. And did you used gx16 connector also for the spindle? My spindle has 8Amps. The connectors are able to pass 5Amps. So I guess I have to wire them directly to the inverter.
Best regards
Selim
Hi, you could wire the end switches in parallel, so you could use 1 input for switches at both sides of the axis. I am not sure from the top of my head if the controller has seperate inputs. The spindle should i deed not be connected to gx16 plug. At the end of video 3 I am showing a larger plug for use with the spindle.
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you mate!
For the spindle, I found gx20 connectors which have 25Amps current. So I will choose those.
Amazing work!
Do you have a link for the EMI filter?
No sorry, I salvaged this from the old controller. Similar models can be found from typical sources like Amazon and AliExpress. I am not an expert on emi filters so I can't recommend a specific model. Check video from Clough42 on EMI. He also has a link to a model from Amazon.
@@uptimefab7412 thanks, found one.
Thats awesome video, thanks!
im having problems with my CNC. When i turn on the system, the step motors on Y axis change position just a little bit i can see the gear moving over the guide. Any idea what is going on ?
Thanks! This is an odd issue. In order to move visually it would need to receive a significant amount of pulses from the controller which does not seem logical. If it is only at startup and only on the Y axis I would try to swap the connectors between the Y and X axis. If the X axis now has the same issue it is the controller, otherwise it is the stepper driver. If it is the controller make sure it is not performing some type of homing cycle. This is all I can think of with the available information. Hope you can locate the source of the problem.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you mate!
I checked and the X axis is doing the same thing. I was thinking that could be some left over power and when start up that would move the motor. Also i understand the pulses and maybe that would be sit between the pulses, not sure about this though ... just a brainstorm im doing... i was looking on internet and saw some pull up and pull down resistors that maybe could help when starts... not sure either... gonna keep looking
cheers!
Thanks for this video. Please make Wiring diagram
A wiring diagram is in de PDF in the article linked in the description
is it just me or is the yellow wire broken off at the back? 9:50
Great catch! Yes, it came loose from the connector. I saw this as well afterwards and have already resoldered it. Hope it stays in place this time :)
Maybe RJ45 is the easier option.
Got a link for the group you mentioned? I could not find it. Thanks!
There are many similar named unr
elated groups, if you Google for this expect sentence you should find them ”facebook digital dream cnc group"
Update - or use link below:
m.facebook.com/groups/1724999967517167/
@@uptimefab7412 Found and joined! Thanks!
Hello, I'm from Brazil and I'm written on your channel. I have this controller and I'm having a hard time. the stepper motors are turning upside down how can i solve?
Hi, you can use parameters #390 up to #392 to change the direction for each axis. Change from 0 to 1 or vice versa if your axis is moving in the wrong direction. For my specific machine X is low (0) and Y and Z are high (1), but this may vary per machine.
@@uptimefab7412 Thank you friend
Hi! Love this series! I bought a second hand cnc router that has a ddcs v2.1 but the limit switches are not connected. They are allready wired in serial and it looks like you did the same or? Could i connect one end to ground and the second to limit x- and brindge this to limit x+? I guess i will try this if i cant find an answer somewhere. Best regards!
Thanks! I only use homing switches on my machine, not limit switches. Also mine are each hooked up to their own input, but I am sharing a negative common wire. On the DDCS v3.1 all homing switches and limit switches have their own input, I assume it is the same on the v2.1. However, in if you want to avoid running additional cables I can imagine you want them in series. I think this is possible but not sure. When in series (only works with normally closed pin of the switches) each axis gets a signal if only one switches is activated. This should be fine as you just want it to give an error regardless of which axis input triggers it. Try at your own risk:)
@@uptimefab7412 Aha so you use soft limits instead. Thanks for your input! Gonna check how my switches are set.
Yep using soft limits. Good luck!
Hello,
What chuck size is your 4th axis set? Are you happy with it now? Thanks
Hi, it is the k11-80mm by Rattm motor on AliExpress. I have not used it for making parts yet as I was unable to get 4th axis programs generated in FreeCAD. Decided to let it rest for now until I finish some other projects, so I can't really comment on the performance or durability of the 4th axis.
@@uptimefab7412 Ok thanks. 4th axis with Fusion is gone so it might be interesting to see how Freecad handle it . I've ordered the K11 too.
Where is your wiring diagram for the home/limit switches? I can’t find them in your pdf or website?
You are right, forgot to include those in the diagram. I only have one switch on each axis, the home switch. Not using limit switches. The home switches are all connected with one side to COM- (pin1) and the other side to pin24 for X, pin 7 for Y and pin pin27 for Z. On the switch the Normally Closed connector is used, so a loose wire would trip the home signal. Hope this helps.
@@uptimefab7412 your videos are fantastic and the details have been absolutely crucial in my build. thank you
Bedankt voor je video's, ze helpen mij een heel eind op weg. Vraagje, ik zit er over na te denken om 4 x DIN rail voedingen van Mean Well te gebruiken in plaats van 1 grote voeding. Ik ben niet technisch aangelegen op het gebied van stroom, maar ik denk dat dit wel kan. Ik wil de EDR150 24 v 6.5 A gebruiken voor de 3 A stepper motoren die ik heb. Dat moet toch goed gaan?
Hoi, ik heb ook geen achtergrond in de elektrotechniek, maar probeer er doorheen te komen met wat basiskennis en manuals lezen. Dat gezegd hebbende denk ik dat je wel uit de voeten kunt met de voeding die je noemt. Lijkt me wel wat overgedimensioneerd, maar dit biedt wel ruimte om later door te groeien met dezelfde voeding. Ik vind dit ook een mooi model, qua form factor en lijken ook efficiënt. Als ik geen bestaande voeding had was ik ook voor zoiets gegaan. Is er een reden waarom je voor de EDR kiest ipv NDR? Laatstgenoemde lijkt wat vaker voor te komen en voldoet aan strengere EMI standaard. Ik weet echter niet of dat echt significant van invloed is in een CNC controller. Als je een goede prijs kunt krijgen op een van de modellen zou ik het gewoon proberen. Ik heb ook verhalen gelezen over de nadelen van regulated power supplies bij stepper drivers, maar ook daar betwijfel ik of je problemen krijgt met een normale toepassing. Als je een model ziet dat goedkoper is en dichter in de buurt komt van de 3A dan is dat heet overwegen waard, zeker als je aparte power supplies wilt voor elke motor. Hopelijk kan je hier iets mee. Groeten, Robin
Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, tengo un problema con el eje A, al minuto de funcionamiento el driver enciende la luz de falla, revise todas las conecciones y están todas bien, tu sabes que parámetros de la controladora debo cambiar?. Saludos desde Chile
Hi, I ran your question through Google translate because I don't speak spanish:
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Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I have a problem with the A axis, after a minute of operation the driver turns on the fault light, I checked all the connections and they are all good, do you know what controller parameters I should change? Greetings from Chile
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My reply: I connected the driver the same way as for the other axes (besides the encoder). For the calculation of steps per rotation please see the PDF in the article linked in the description of the video. Other than that is should work. For trouble shooting you could swap the stepper driver with the one from a different axis just to verify if the driver itself is not the issue. (then test both swapped drivers on their new axis) Does the driver also fault out if you don't move the axis? Also you could check what happens if you remove the belt from the stepper and run a program. This will tell you if the motor might be overloaded by your application or belt/axis assembly. Hope this helps. Robin
Hi. How did you get the closed loop to work with this controller? I’m having issues after connecting new closed loop stepper and driver. Doesn’t work at all. Can’t get it to work in open setting without encoder too. Works fine with regular steppers and drives.
Hi, the connection for a closed loop driver is exactly the same: 2 for direction and 2 for pulse. Are you sure you have all 4 wires connected correctly and that they are making proper contact? You can also check if you driver is faulty by a cheap "pulse generator for stepper driver" or even manually generating pulses with an external power source.
If I were to use Cat 6 cables would they be ok for the driver to stepper connections in wire size?
Hi, the wire gauge on CAT6 should be around AWG23, which is too small for the high current line from stepper driver to the motor. You can however use CAT6 for signal lines from controller to stepper driver or for the closed loop signal line. For my steppers I use 0.75mm^2 (AWG18). I have read people running NEMA 23 on diameters as small as AWG22, but I don't see any reason to use smaller wire gauge since even high quality shielded wire is quite cheap. Hope this helps.
@@uptimefab7412 It does! I was just hoping for a more plug and play connector solution. I'm also into Amateur radio and we use those round plugs for microphone and some power connections. Very tricky to solder and even worse with my eyesight. I may have to come up with something else. If 18 or 16 ga wire is fine I may try using Anderson Powerpoles. 30 amp handling each on the pins.
I like the idea of a standalone controller. Trying to buy all my other parts now though. 2.2kw spindle and VFD with pump. Ball screws and such.
Agreed, soldering connectors can be a pain. I also like the CAT6 connectors, I would also prefer these over gx16 for low current signal wires. Problem is if you have a cable without the CAT connector and you have to crimp it yourself. In that case it is almost as difficult as soldering (for me)
Hi i have nearly finished my control cabinet but i need some labels for the switches etc where did you get yours from ?
Hi, I am just using a standard Dymo label printer. Works fine on most smooth surfaces.
@@uptimefab7412 just tried the home switches works great My offline controller SMC5-5-N-N setting home
ua-cam.com/video/YhiqCzuDGp0/v-deo.html
Wow, very nice project! The CNC looks great. I also like the SMC controller.
I am fascinated with this, following your idea, it does something similar, it works for me, but I have 2 concerns, the first, how do you connect the keyboard, via USB to the ddcs? I am referring to commands in the ddcs, the Bluetooth indicator on the keyboard lights up intermittently, but does not connect, and the second, the surge suppressor diode, I am not clear about its function, thank you for sharing your knowledge, att León Anchislavsky
Hi, thank you for your feedback. I am using a Logitech keyboard (k270)with a wireless USB dongle. It is not Bluetooth but some proprietary wireless dongle. This works fine, I have not tried any Bluetooth USB dongles. For the surge suppressor it is best to refer you to the Siemens manual that has a complete section devoted to the various types and their pros and cons. See link below, section 9.6, page 311.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=support.industry.siemens.com/cs/attachments/60306557/manual_SIRIUS_contactors_3RT_en-US.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjovZOoooT3AhXLs6QKHRZLCn8QFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1hhSo0RpGK6QLc0xdcTeDb
Many thanks for your answer
This came out incredibly nice for a DIYer. How did you know how to do all of this?
Thanks! I have a mechanical engineering background, but my knowledge on electronics is quite basic. However, I like to figure out how stuff works. Most information comes from online research and by reading manuals.
@@uptimefab7412 I’m rebuilding my mini mill cnc cabinet from scratch and I’ll be referencing your build as I go. Keep up the great content!
Can we upgrade to ATC??
Hi, it should be possible to command a tool change and modify the routine for this by editing the T.nc file. I have not tested this. Please check the Facebook group, there are many posts on that topic there. Google for " Facebook digital dream CNC"
how much cost all equipment of the CNC Controller box
It depends on how much you can reuse from an old controller. Everything new would be over 1.000 euro. I did not keep track of pricing so I do not have a specific number. Things add up quickly with many small parts.
@@uptimefab7412 ok think you , can you give me bill of materials which you used on part3 with picture if possible
Hi, the Bill of materials including the things added in part 3 can be found in the website article linked in the description of the video. Scroll down in the article or search on the page for "bill"
Thanks for all informations
Have been looking at these controller's. What geode post processor do they use?
Mach3 and Linux cnc are supported by most programs like fusion 360. But can never find what code flavour these want.
Hi, I am just using the standard Mach3 post in fusion 360 and this works fine for me.
excellent work, I ask you some questions:
1- which motor do you recommend, step motors or servo motor?
4- about Controller, for a professional use, which one do you suggest me buy? maybe DDCS V3.1 ,AXBB-E , Centroid 4 axis Acorn?, Arduino, or some other? What is the difference between them ?
5. which is better or the difference of using Ball Screw nut BK/BF12 or Timing Belt ? Which is faster ?
thank very much
1 for a hobby router (closed loop) steppers are fine, if you have the money and want faster quieter motor with more advanced position controller go for servos. I would love to have them on my machine but got me it doesn't make sense. Having said that, I have bought a lot of stuff before that did not make sense.
4 the first 3 you mention should all be fine from what I read. Just see what you personal preferences are regarding form factor, use of PC, connections etc. I also had Masso controller on my short list. You can attach your own touch screen to this. Like I said it is personal, I would not want to push the DDCS on anyone, that is just what I bought.
5 belts vs lead screws: I only have experience with the lead screw. Check out CNCzone forum. There is a discussion with pros and cons for both. Depends on application as well. For larger travel also rack and pinion is used.
Excellent build, question from a total newbie to cnc. How is your enclosure performing? and I have bought a RatRig 1500mm x 1000mm cnc will this enclosure system work ok with it?
Hi Paul, thanks! I was not familiar with the RatRig systems but just looked them up. A system like mine should work, but make sure you size the components (power supply, VFD, contactor) appropriately based on the stepper motors and spindle you are using for your system.
Thanks for reply can I ask do you have an overall cost of what it has cost you to date, the only difference I think I will make is the new Expert model but I’d buy everything you have in your enclosure
Highly depends on where you buy your components, but things add up quickly if you count every switch, power supply etc... My guess is around 1000 euro, but I did not keep track of the cost. Making your own controller is not cheaper than buying one I guess, but you have freedom of choice for the components you use and knowledge of how it works, which was the main reason for me.
Perfect.Thank you
Hi man! is it possible to attach a CNC router with a laser for engraving in the same machine with this controller? Thanks in advance!
Hi, this might be possible, but I think this would require another post processor and a way to interface with the laser input. Not plug and play. I am not sure you would want to do this from a safety perspective (needs suitable enclosure). I assume you are aware of the risks, please be careful. Interesting idea though.
@@uptimefab7412 Hi! Of course, laser is dangerous and my idea is to make a little enclosure, and of course wearing safety glasses. Also, recenly I saw a video from a youtuber called DIY Builds, and he use a switch to swap from the laser to the milling, but i dont get it hahaha. Im searching for a controller that can suit both of them at the same time. Thanks for the response, btw!
Hi sir pls tel me how to speed homing pls
Hi, the homing parameters are described in section 4.1 table 8 of the DDCS user manual. It should be parameters #54-#58.
Hello,
I wonder if this controller is interactive like Mach3 ?
Meaning is it possible to type Gcode in a command prompt let's say to cut a straigth line?
Thanks
Hi, there is no real MDI mode on the controller, but there is something that comes quite close. Under the file menu in the DDCS you can create a new file, type your commands in that file, save it and run it. Note that this is only possible when you plug in a USB keyboard into to the controller.
@@uptimefab7412 Ok Thanks, In parrallele I asked in the facebook forum and they respond " go to Program menu and create a new gcode , then Edit, or use the MDI menu for one line gcode....
If the DDCS V3.1 has an MDI mode that would be very nice. I have not been able to find it. There is also no mention of this in the manual. Are you sure they were referring to the V3.1 and not the expert model? If you do manage to find out if it also works on the V3.1 please let me know, would be a nice option to have.
hi do you know what aviation connector i can on my 1.5kw spindle ive been looking ate them and they all seem to be rated at 5A but iam sure that that is tool low, i want to put my vfd in a enclosure like you and use a aviation connector like you have for easy connection,any advice appreciated thanks
Hi, the gx16 can I indeed not handle the current required for the spindle. As an alternative you could use a ws20 connector shown in video part3 around the 22.40 time mark. This should be able to handle 25 amps. Of course this is just one of the possible options. It is really available on AliExpress.
thanks for the reply i ordered an "HangTon WS20 4 Pin Aviation Circular Bulkhead Connector 25A Cable Plug Socket Dustproof for Industrial Power Electrical Light LED 12awg Wire" this morning off amazon for the spindle and ordered some of those 5A aviation connectors for my high torque nema 23's and limit switches hopefully they will be ok for that. I could see a amature making some stupid mistake building this type of project. Really dangerous. @@uptimefab7412
how do you not have emi issues ? you have a vfd inches away from your drivers and controller?
Good question, I don't know why I don't have issues as I am not able to measure EMI. I placed the VFD as far away as possible from the stepper drivers, but they are still quite close in this compact cabinet. It seems to work though. In forums I have read that other people have the VFD inside the cabinet without any issues. On the other hand there are people that indicate that you cannot have the VFD in the same cabinet. A lot of conflicting information on this topic. This is why I decided to place the VFD inside the box until I do find issues with EMI. A trade off between effort and risk of issues. I will place an update if there are any issues. Do you have a separate box for the VFD or just more space in the controller box?
@@uptimefab7412 I have my vfd about 3 ft away. Even with that just having my spindle cable in the drag chain with the motor and endstop cables caused stuttering. I do have shielded wire also. when my spindle cable is on its own, everything works perfect so.
It might just be the nicer components you used. Mine is entirely aliexpress
Wow those are some serious noise issues. Do you have a ferrite ring around the cable? Mine has the 3 spindle leads wound around a ferrite ring right after the VFD. This should be visible in video 1. I assume you also have an EMI line filter installed? On the other hand it might just as well be the type of VFD.
Hola, gracias por responder a mis preguntas, podrías decirme si es posible, continuar un trabajo desde una línea de códigos,. Al quedar sin energía eléctrica, para no empezar todo el trabajo nuevamente. Gracias espero lo entiendas. Saludos amigo desde Chile
Hi, could you repost your comment in English?
@@uptimefab7412 ok. Gracias
Any updates /regrets about this controller
For my application it works fine. I would have liked to have wifi or LAN. The newer 4.1 version does have LAN. Also my controller doesn't have a lot of customizable IO, but for my simple router it has all I need. The 4.1 has some other interesting upgrades, listed on their website, might be worth to check out. Also the plus model is interesting if you have the space and additional cash. The key pad on my model is a bit fragile, not industrial quality, bit that is to be expected for this price.
@@uptimefab7412 do you have an opinion about the expert model vs the new 4.1?
It really depends on the use case. If size is not an issue or if you need more advanced functions that the expert provides like tool a tool changer or 5 axes then the expert might be a good choice. I also like the fact that you can get an external keypad for this. I think the downside of the one I have but also the v4.1 that there are only a few keys, so you end up with multiple button presses for functions like homing. I think overall, if you don't want to outgrow your controller and want to get the most of it go for the expert. But if your main goal is to get your machine working and the v4.1 has what you need, go for that option. Also the expert is quite a bit larger, so you will need a bigger enclosure.
Hi friend sorry to be bothering you more I have a problem. in the straight cuts it is firing and where there is a very slow curve, it burns the mdf. which parameters to use. and what is your post processor?
Hi, no problem. Since you mention slow corners and burnt material, it indeed seems to be a feed rate that is too low for your specific tool diameter and RPM, causing less deep cuts/re-cutting/rubbing and thereby generates heat. It might be that your machine is not capable of maintaining high feed in corners due to acceleration settings. In that case increase acceleration or if this does not work for you machine use a lower spindle RPM. Also make sure that inner corners are not very close to the tool diameter. In that case you can't really achieve a proper feed, since it needs to change direction inside a corner. Another option is to take smaller depth passes, which allow for chip evacuation. I use Fusion360 with Mach3 post. As far as I can see Fusion360 only has an option to reduce feed rates in tight corners, which would not help in this case, since you are not breaking end mills, but are instead experiencing burnt material. I hope the suggestions mentioned above help reduce the issue.
Robin
@@uptimefab7412 Friend thanks for your attention. It is my first homemade CNC but I made it very robust with nema 34 engines of 85kg on the Y and X axes 2005 spindles and on the z spindle of 1605 3hp spindler engine. I believe that I am not able to configure the parameters of the controller. what is happening is that in straight cuts it is very fast to the point of breaking the cutter and in a curve going very slow. if possible you could send the configuration of your controller parameters to the email loja_startgames@hotmail.com thank you very much friend
Hi, the only changes I made to the controller are mentioned in the PDF in the website article. The rest is at factory default settings. For acceleration check 2031 (I have zero), 99 (I have 300 mm/s^2), 45-48 are all set to 300 in my case. Note I did not change these from factory settings. However, given your additional description, please check your G-code just to make sure the arcs in the corner are not actually programmed with a lower feed rate. In that case you should look at your CAM software. Also check the other things I mentioned like tool diameter being close to your programmed inner radius.
In my case I had to move the VFD to outside of the control box as it caused too much electrical noise
I'm doing this on mine as well (i'm going to 3d print a bracket so I can screw it to the side of my control box). It turns out my VFD is too long and the door won't close unless I cut a hole for it. I guess reduced electrical noise is a Plus
Sir, does it support encoder ?
Hi, it does not support an encoder
@@uptimefab7412 so how it is used to spindle speed monitoring?
The spindle RPM is not monitored at all by the controller. The VFD makes sure it runs at the correct RPM, based on the 0-10V signal from the DDCS. This is very reliable and perfectly linear, unless you are asking too much from the spindle in terms of power needed for your cut. The DDCS V3.1 is quite basic, if you need more features, they also have more advanced models, not sure if they support an encoder.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you
I was going to buy the ddcs v3.1 but realised that It's not quite usefull for my cnc servo motors. Meaning it can't handle alarm signal coming from the drivers. Though It's not an essential fonction I'd be nice to use the full option the servo motors offer. I recently came accross the DDCS EXPERT controller which have this option. Do you know if this controller is as good as the DDCS V3.1 or It's one of the buged chinese new devices to say away of ? Thanks
Hi, I do not have experience with the DDCS expert, but it seems like a nice option. In fact, if it would have been available when I was looking for a controller I would probably have gone for the expert or plus version. They both have more functionality, but at the cost of a higher price and larger dimensions. They are made by the same company as the DDCS V3.1. Perhaps users in the digital dream Facebook group have shared their experiences with one of the newer controllers, would be a good place to check.
Robin
@@uptimefab7412 thanks a lot for your feeback. I'll check with them.
I thinks the DDCS V3.1 is just great for stepper motors.
Anyway you've made excellent videos very usefull. Great help ! Thanks
@@uptimefab7412 Your DDCS v3.1 is a 4 axis. So XYYZ. Do you know if you can connect 2 Y to one axis signal in the DDCS ? Thanks
@@uptimefab7412 Your DDCS v3.1 is a 4 axis. So XYYZ. Do you know if you can connect 2 Y to one axis signal in the DDCS ? Thanks
Hi, although is has 4 axes unfortunately the 4th axis cannot be reassigned to be a second Y axis. I have seen this feature requested on forums before but I do not think they are going to add the feature to this specific controller. Unfortunate, because this would be useful for a lot of people with dual Y axis motors.
how to define the right point of the work area?
Not sure if I understand your question correctly. Do you mean the zero position for each axis? In that case: zero is the point where the end switch triggers when backing off from the switch. The size of the work area you can define yourself by typing in a number that matches the travel for each axis, minus a small number for safety. If you meant something else let me know.
Robin
@@uptimefab7412 configure the table size in soft limits?
Parameters #376 up to #382 can be used to set the min and max position of each axis relative to the machine coordinates.
@@uptimefab7412 uia man thank you very much, i will try, i was almost given up and going back to mach3
Haha narrow escape, good luck, hope it works for you.
Creative video, thanks :)
You didn't mention the total cost of the project ?
Hi, the Total cost highly depends on how many components you reuse from an old controller, but I spent over 1000 euros. It might be possible to do it for less, but you would have to get more creative with the used components. (Like not replacing stepper drivers or using a 2nd hand enclosure for example).
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks for your reply. I knew that this system should cost a lot of money, even you're reusing components you already have.
Really nice work !
10:45 no heatshrink covering the solder joints... come on man. make it look nice even if no one sees it.
Ha, that would be an advanced heat shrinking exercise. Anyway the connector is closed now, no one will ever know...
Спасибо!
A closed feedback loop is actually created by having an encoder that is constantly compared to another encoder on the end of the ball screw or using a glass scale. When one feedback deviates too
Far you receive an alarm. Simply having an encoder providing feedback is considered a semi closed loop.
The closed loop systems that are monitored by the controller are very nice, but as far as I am aware not supported by this DDCS controller. For my purposes (hobby machining on a cheap router) the feedback loop between the driver and motor is all I need, but for high end machines it makes sense to go all the way. Thanks for your feedback!
Schitterend resultaat !!
Good voices
Thanks!
nice
I'm intredsted ok
I suggest double checking any shielding or grounding info gained from corvette guy 50. Shielding a cable with a drain wire and pigtail is no longer an acceptable practice. If you machine had to be designated EMI efficient for one of your customers you could never obtain this certification using pigtails.
You do realize this is a diy project and he is not selling these right?
if you want to spend 1000 euro for this ok
Thanks for commenting, CNC is an expensive hobby indeed. There might be cheaper options, but if you want to make something out of separate components it quickly becomes this expensive. It is quite rewarding though when it actually works.
Grounding is not going to help if you have the VFD in the control box --- DON'T DO IT ----
Hi John, mounting the VFD in the control box is indeed not best practice. I already left warnings about this in the comments and the website article regarding EMI. So I do not recommend doing this. However, I have not seen any issues in my specific case. Also my lathe works without issues with the VFD in the same cabinet as the other components. Note that in both cases I do have a noise filter for the mains line and a ferrite ring on the UVW lines. As I understand many hobbyists have the VFD in the same enclosure. It is hard to find any specific documentation on installation requirements for what components you are allowed to have near a VFD. Most is anecdotal. If you know if any good online source or manual please let know. Would be useful for future hobby projects. Thank you for bringing this up. Cheers, Robin
What cam program do you use to make the g-code? How do you transfer it to the Controller?
Hi, I use Fusion360 with the standard Mach3 mill post processor. Transfer is done with a USB stick as this model unfortunately does not have any network connectivity. I believe some other DDCS models do have LAN.