Note: For proper shielding of the stepper cables, the shield should be connected at one side to ground inside the cabinet. Also for external shielded cables. See video part3 for updates to the controller and check the pinned comment on that video for best practices.
Thank you so much for sharing your build! You have inspired me in so many areas of my build. Even better you introduced me to @corvetteguy50 who has taught me so much. My box design and many of the parts are similar, although my design is based around a Masso controller. I truly appreciate you sharing this build!
I read from several sources that one should connect a shield only on one end to prevent ground loops, from grounds with different potential. Also there are sources that indicate that for specific data transfer applications it is better to ground at both ends. Most information for CNCs seems to indicate on one side, so I also took that approach. As you may know there is a lot of contradiction on this subject though, but I just went with the sources that I thought related most to my application.
Great work. I'm no electrician but (sorry to report) I think to actually shield those wires on 22:43 you'd need to connect the mesh shielding to ground and not clip it like you did.
Hi, I think you are absolutely right, the shield should be connected to ground to make it effective. This would mean I have poor wiring skills on top of poor soldering skills :) I will leave a pinned comment with this update. This does mean I would have to get a 5-pin connectors to get the shield through the non-conductive housing and connect it to ground. Thanks for you comment, much appreciated!
Thank you for sharing. I build a CNC from spare parts salvaged from large tech machines (airport luggage scanner and something used in IC chip manufacturing). I wish there were more videos like this one when I started that project. Great job!
Delighted to find this detailed tutorial, I have bought a secondhand cnc router that is run by a dedicated Linux computer and LinuxCNC everything works individually but there is no real information out there on troubleshooting such a system. I have purchased this exact controller to make it stand alone the same as my cnc laser. Thank you so much for the time and effort you have put in, cheers from NZ.
Thanks, received several comments on this. I left a pinned comment regarding this topic, so viewers are aware it needs to be connected to ground at one end if they want shielding to work on their cables.
Please put other video for about how to do the program in this Device, It would be very helpful for many people, I am so impressed about explaining very clearly
I have the same Router. A little tip: Get rid of the small connectors at the stepper motors. Replace with larger round 'aircraft' type connectors. I did and got a huge improvement in smoothness in the router. I suspect they are a source of significant volt drop.
Hi Stephen, thanks for the tip! That sounds very plausible. They not only seem a bit flimsy, also they get a bit warm during operation, there might be too small connector pins or poor connection. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge. I am in the middle of building my DIY CNC with a proper control panel and your video have been extremely helpful.
Good morning 🌅, great content, at some point I hope to rebuild my travelling carriage on my wood lathe, as I had blown the driver a few months ago, the carriage is supposed to travel from left to right and the slide on Top used to go in and out manually, I’m hoping to make it all drive-by CNC, at the moment it’s a bit beyond me, from France.
Sounds like a fun project! If you just take it one step at time and do some research online it can get you a long way. Lots of good information out there to get started, best of luck if you do end up converting the lathe!
I am not a big fan of mounting the VFD in the same enclosure due to EMI. To help reduce any potential EMI problems, one can add some ferrite magnets to the signal wires/cables to protect them. I don't like using a plastic box for the enclosure because they offer no shielding. EMI/RFI can cause a lot of hard to diagnose problems that can send you on a wild goose chase. The video is well edited and your work is great. The layout looks good. It does take a lot of time and research to design and build an enclosure.
Thanks, it was quite a learning experience. The feedback from you and others very helpful to get a good understanding of best ptactices. I admit to sometimes taking not the best but the easiest approach to make sure I can make something with the tools I have available. An example is the plastic enclosure, which is great for a "sandbox" CNC project. Cutting another hole is very easy, but indeed not good for EMI. I will keep your feedback in mind for a next controller cabinet, enough room to improve. Thanks again! Robin
The only suggestion I can offer is to drill the holes at the corners of the rectangular cutouts differently: You can put the hole centered on the corner and save the filing. The rounded corner is less likely to crack too.
Great video. One thing I noticed: shielded cables are good as long as the shielding mesh has a connection to ground. Therefore, you have to provide contact between the mesh and the connector's housing. Otherwise, it will not bring much effect.
Hi Martin, thank you for your feedback on this. My way of doing it was indeed not correct. I had a comment on this earlier and placed a note in the website article together with other feedback and new insights after releasing the video. Regardless, thank you for your comment, much appreciated. This confirms the right approach.
Just some advice, the general rule of electronics is your load should be no more than 80% of the total current. SO...if you have a 10 Amp power supply, the max current should not exceed 8A. Otherwise, things tend to get hot...really hot. Same goes for wire gauges. So the total current of all stepper motors should not exceed 8A for a 10A power supply. It doesn't matter if they are drawing max power at the same time or not, it's a safety rule. Seen too many fires from people thinking 10A means they can use all 10A but don't realize the internal components are in excess of 180 degrees when doing so. When under the 80% rule, things don't reach unsafe temps unless it's a faulty component. Fans just delay the inevitable at that point. Be safe and use the 80% rule!
In the case, you will work at the case, you can replace the self cutted taps with rivet nuts. This should be much stronger than the taps in this thin sheet. Only a advice.
That sounds like a good option. I went for tapping to make the stepper drivers flush with the back plate for heat distribution, but indeed doing this in thin sheet is not the best option. If I do end up taking it apart at some point I might give the rivet nuts a try. Thanks for the advice.
Hi, my estimate came out a bit lower, but I just didn't keep track of all the various parts I bought over several months. Thanks for looking up the prices. I bought items like the controller and 4th axis from ali express, which should be a bit cheaper. I think I paid less than 1000 euro in total or at least I hope so :) Update - Just found some more invoices. Mine add up to around 1000 euro (which could be more in USD), but I might have missed the odd bits and pieces that add up quickly. Not a cheap hobby. Leave out the 4th axis and you can save 200.
Compared to you I am a techno-peasant. I mean, i could not begin to build anything like your cnc. Even with your great instructions. That said, can you recommend a cnc that i could purchase for $1,500 or less? I need to cut aluminum up to half inch. Im considering the shapeoko. Thoughts?
Thanks! I have not looked at cnc routers for a while since I am not in the market for a new one. The shapeoko does seem to be a popular system but I don't have any experience with it.
I am currently building my second control box and upgrading as well, I think I will use also a PILZ Safety relay for the E-Stop and tie that into the controller cutting the Enable to the drives as well as all other power but 24V will remain On. Thanks for sharing it helped me in my decisions as well.
Thanks! Indeed quite a bit of work but it is great to see when it actually works in the end. I will do some more tedious video editing and hopefully upload the end result soon.
Hi, of course. Assuming you mean how to set it up on the controller (not in relation to your part) it is fairly straightforward with the DDCS: in the main menu press "tab" until G54 is highlighted. Then with "A+" and "A-" you can select any offset between G54 and G59 (or even machine coordinates if you don't use home switches). Then just press "shift" followed by one of the keys indicated in lower right of the screen to zero all or just one of the axis in you current work offset. You can manually zero machine coordinates in the same way. Note that if you do end up setting machine coordinates to zero with this method, all of your Gxx offsets will shift accordingly, so first set machine coordinates and only then set Gxx. Hope this answers your question.
Great job. Just waiting deliveries and i'll start same kind of project. However one question: I'm a bit surprised when you write "Since I experienced lost steps with the old controller I decided to use shielded cable wherever possible" and none of your cable has its shield connected (in one point) to the earth, which means that you shield is useless.
Thanks for the comment. Absolutely correct. I already left a pinned comment when I received feedback on this before. Still very much appreciated though! Good luck with your project!
OMG Thank you! I bought a 6090 chinese CNC machine a few years back. The 4th axis controller board died on me and I have not been able to find one that works for my CNC. I am totally doing this for my CNC. I want to get the 4th axis working again and I want to be able to find replacement parts for it too! Subscribed! EDIT: 4th Axis stepper driver not controller board
That's odd. The step and direction signals from the DDCS are 5V. Can you check if the step and direction input on your drivers respond to 5v? Just a guess but if they need 24v input signal they might not do anything with 5v signals. Is there a green LED to indicate the drive is working? Also double check the connection on your stepper motor.
A USB stick is better but would have really liked this controller to have a LAN port. The newer ones do have it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Hello. Do I understand correctly that when the E-STOP button is activated, the contacts of the magnetic starter open and the power supply of the stepper motors is turned off and the spindle falls along the Z axis?
Hi, in case the e-stop of the pendant is used the steppers are stopped but still under power, holding their position. In case the external E-stop is used the power to the VFD and stepper drivers is cut. This indeed means that the steppers are no longer under power. Since my machine is very light the Z-axis just stays in place even when all power is turned off. So it does not require a brake on the Z-axis.
I am so excited about the information that is in this video. I really like the way you started by showing how everything is connected and when you traced the wires with the green tracer i was able to have a full understanding of how everything works together. I gave you a like and you have a new subscriber. Thank you for your time and God Bless!!
There is no words to describe about your coaching please let me know main router motor ratings and other stepper motor ratings. Also I request you where we have to see your theory lessons . I appreciate your brainy work
HI ! I was inspired by the way you wired you contactor for the E stop . I tried, the wiring worked, turned off and On according to the plan. But I witnessed a smoke coming from the contactor (only when stopped) at first i thought it was my mistake ( it is), checked cabling. then i checked the contactor in itself before realising that the coil inside the contactor is only 8 ohms , which make it run a 24v/8 = 3 amps , welll , there is why it's smokee but works. my mistake was (i think) that I did not put LED in this wiring, but i didn't know it's function was also that of a resistance in this loop. also permitting to "drain the coil of current " (i don't know the term) when we e stop the machine ^^. Do you agree ? I don't think you spoke about it in your video, but i think it is important to consider , because i'm not the only dumb one on the internet ^^. Thanks for your content.
Hi, smoke from your contactor is not good. This probably means something is not wired correctly. Are you sure you connected the contacts for the coil terminal to 24VDC? Please triple check all of your connections or have an electrician verify it. If you indeed have a 24V contactor you should be able to connect it directly to a push button in line with a 24V power supply ( for the specific Siemens model I used). No resistor is needed. I do not have any resistor in between. My LED is in parallel with the contactor, so the is no voltage drop over the coil due to the LED. Please also check all of your other connections: the auxiliary contacts as well as the mains connections you are trying to switch. Note that mains voltage can pose a serious danger. If in any doubt please contact a professional to connect and verify your installation.
Hi you cannot connect servo motors that require a feedback loop to the controller. I think you could connect servo drives that have an internal feedback loop, but I have not tried this. I was planning to try this with a cheap servo motor set, but this is not on the short term planning.
The line diagram the current comes into the main and than to a (dc 24v power supply)... It shows three (power supplies) the first in line is in question. (little white looking breaker) Does the din rail circuit breaker count as a 24v dc power supply? I looked a the list of materials I didnt see a circuit breaker. trying to do just the same set up minus the spindle vfr. what is the rating on the din rail breaker? Thanks
Hi, this is indeed a power supply, not a circuit breaker. I understand the confusion, it indeed looks a bit like a breaker. It is the Mean Well DR-15-24.
@@uptimefab7412 Right I get two power supplies one for screen ddcsv3 and one for the steppers... what does the Mean Well 24V DIN Rail Power Supply power? thanks I'm really grateful. Cant wait for the next Video. I thought you just needed two power supplies
I initially intended to have both the large power supply and the one for the DDCS behind the contactor and since I wanted to disable the steppers (E-stop) without shutting down the DDCS this would require 3 power supplies, including the one for the contactor. I later decided to have the DDCS go around the contactor altogether. So, in this case it would be possible to combine the 2 smaller power supplies. However, in my research before starting this project I read people were using a separate power supply for a contactor to avoid voltage spikes affecting other 24VDC components in the same circuit when the contactor switches on or off, so therefore I decided to keep it on a separate small power supply. I am not 100% sure if this is really needed, but I am playing it safe to avoid any issues with the DDCS controller. The DIN rail power supply only cost me around 15 euro. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your feedback! --- Update: I have ordered a surge protector for the contactor (siemens 3RT2916‑1DG00), which should reduce spikes down to less than 1V. This should eliminate the issue. Note that I do not have a scope and cannot test this. This is according to the Siemens manual.
Hi sorry for the late reply. It unfortunately does not support m98 and m99. It is not in the manual, but I also tried on the controller itself, doesn't work. I noticed that the Expert model does have this function in the manual, maybe other models as well, did not check.
Hello again, UptimeFab, I have noticed that your very clear wiring diagram shows the single 24V DC Power Supply being connected to both the main DC power input of the Module and the input of the I/O DC input, These are recommended to be supplied by separate 24V supplies to avoid Earth loop issues. This is about the only sensible information I could elicit from Digital Dream, when they could rouse themselves enough to answer an e-mail. I fitted a 1AMP 24V DC supply to supply the I/O terminals separately. This is good electronics practice. I thought this might be connected to my MPG non-functionality but, alas no.
Hi Jim, thanks, I noticed this as well later on in the build. In the new version of the wiring diagram I have a separate power supply for the unit and the IO, same as you. Also found this later on in the manual and changed it. The wiring diagram was updated a couple of weeks ago to reflect this.
Hallo Robin. Vanaf de "homing end switches" gaan 4 draden naar de controller. Betekend dat je 1 draad gebruikt als nul-draad die je verbindt met alle 3 de switches? Ik kan het niet goed uit de video halen.
Hoi Ben, bedankt voor je reactie. Klopt, precies zoals je aangeeft heb ik 1 draad gebruikt om alle switches te verbinden met COM-. Ze hebben wel allemaal een aparte draad naar een eigen home pin (7, 24 en 27). Hierdoor kan ik alle 3 schakelaars verbinden met een 4 polige kabel. Je moet dan wel bij elke schakelaar de nul draad "aftappen", maar dit is prima te doen. Gr, Robin.
Hi, the VFD has a metal housing (under the plastic cover) that is already grounded by bolting it to the metal back plate of the controller box. From what I understand it is better not to ground parts in 2 places to avoid ground loops. I am not sure how much of an issue that is in CNC applications, but at least my VFD is now already grounded through the housing, which should be sufficient.
@@uptimefab7412 have you checked with multimeter a connection of housing with grounding pin? i don't know your model, but in my vfd aluminum radiator on the back isn't connected with grounding of vfd circuit board, so i have to ground it by the grounding pin.
I just checked with the multimeter and luckily with my model the ground pin is connected to the metal housing of the VFD. Thanks for the tip anyway! It is indeed best not to assume the housing is connected to ground just because it is made out of metal.
Hi, great video, I'm just curious about the contactor. From what I have read (im very new to this), contactors are used in either an ac or dc circuit. Would you care to shed some light on this as your contactor has ac and dc connected to it in the same circuit(?) Thanks
Hi, sure, I am using a contactor that has a DC connection for opening and closing the switched contacts. The contacts are switching AC current. The contacts for engaging the contactor and the ones that are being switched by the contactor are completely separate. There are also contactors that operate on AC, but I did not want to have a 230V AC push button on the front panel to activate the contactor. I prefer to have that low voltage DC. That is the main reason for using a DC contactor. Same argument for an Estop in parallel with the push button. Also if you want to activate or deactivate a contactor from a controller or any other electric circuit, DC is easier.
If you are in Europe, try Conrad.com or Reichelt.com. I am from the Netherlands where several suppliers sell it like automation24, techniekwebshop among others. If you are from the US or other part of the world I am not sure where to get this type of cable. Try searching for "Lapp 0034704".
Thank a lot for sharing so much detail information. It could be a great reference to my Next CNC router, my CNC router used 2 Y stepper motors, maybe have to select different Display board.
I have version Omio 2.1 of the controller you are using and would like to know what post processor you use for your files? I'm currently using GRBL, but want to learn if there are others that work with the controller box.
Hello Robin, I have seen many videos on UA-cam, but I found your video the most instructive and professional, so I am currently building a CNC controller 1 to 1 like yours. In most CNC videos I see also the use of end-switches, like inductive sensors. Is there a reason why you did not use these? I presume the DDCS can handle input from end-switches?
Hi Ben, thanks, nice to see the videos have been useful for you. There is no specific reason I chose mechanical switches. The DDCS can also handle inductive switches, so if that has your preference you can use those as well. I did not spend a lot of time to figure out which type would be best for my application and just bought the mechanical type. I think both work fine for a home CNC router. The mechanical ones might be more sensitive to dirt, while the inductive ones can be sensitive to EMI. I would say, go with your personal preference. Same goes for other choises I made. Some at are just based on what components I could find or had on hand, other solutions or brands could also work. Please make sure to read comments of other viewers as well if you haven't done so already to get a balanced perspective. Good luck on your project!
Thanks for your quick respons, I think I will go for the inductive sensors. My machine wil be used for milling natural stone, Have to use water to prevent dust clouds and clear the dirt. So the mechanical part of the machine wil quite a challenge.
Thanks for sharing your issue and solution. Luckily you found the cause quickly. The side button is quite useful and becomes second nature to press after using it a couple of times. Cheers, Robin
I am also building control box, i've got the same type enclosure and i have a problem with mounting holes in corners - they are limiting my space on mounting plate, if i cover them, i will not be able to fix the plate, do you have any jdea how to solve this problem?
Hi, you could make some spacers (stand offs) that fit exactly between the back of the enclosure and the plate and then just mount it with a long bolt and a nut at the back of the enclosure, similar to how I mounted the TV bracket. It must be said though, if you don't have enough room to use the existing mounting points on the plate, you also probably don't have enough room for sufficient air flow, which can lead to heat building up in the enclosure. So if you have high components all the way up to the corner of the enclosure you should actually buy a larger box. Another option is for example to place the VFD in a different enclosure to free up some space.
@@uptimefab7412 Thanx i will try this. Enclosure is large enough for all od my parts, i just need to get some more space for cooling as you say, cables etc. By the way. How do you like that DDCS controller since You installed it inside? I am thinking about buying some new controller. Does it have any functions for correcting some minor imperfections in my machine geometry, You know, a skew axes for example?
The DDCS is a nice low cost controller. If you don't need any advanced functions like a built in PLC then it works fine. The new DDCS V4.1 has some useful upgrades like a LAN port. I also like the SZGH models. More advanced (PLC, macro) but larger and more expensive. It all depends on your needs and budget. My DDCSV3.1 as far as I know doesn't have an option to correct for skewed axes. It does have a backlash correction option.
Hello friend excellent videos, I have a question how to add fuse holders to your electrical panel? would they be necessary? I hope you can help me, I will carry out this process on my machine and I already have the fuse holders
Hi, if you have a separate fuse holder you should also be able to place this in the mains line before the mains switch. I am not sure if this is necessary or required, but I added a fuse that is significantly lower amperage than the fuse in my house, so it should trigger faster and therefore offer a bit more protection in case of an overload or short.
Sure, it is included in the web site article linked in the description. Somewhere in the middel of that article you will find a pdf with all the details.
Hi thanks for commenting. Please see the pinned comment on shielding. I have just fixed this on my machine, was not as much work as I expected, so not worth skipping. If I have some time to edit a new video in the upcoming weeks I will include these corrections.
Hi, unfortunately DDCS controllers are only available for mills. Controllers with specific lathe functions are a bit less common, but you could go for a SZGH controller, MASSO or PC based solution like EdingCNC, Linux CNC or Mach3/4. There are probably more options, but these are the ones I considered.
Hi, the contactor is not related specifically to the VFD, but to all components in the controller in general. The VFD will run fine without a contactor, but contactors are typically used as a safety feature.
@@uptimefab7412 Excellet!Tranks! i have another question, Where you connect the spindle motor? To the VFD exit terminals U;V,W? or, in terminals AD-, AD+, AP-, AP+?
Dear what parameter should i take into account while selecting my spindel ... i mean if i want to mill a 3cm wood door .. so how much torque and power do i need to decide my spindel can y help in that
I have no personal experience with cutting thick panels, I typically make lighter cuts and use small diameter end mills. But from what I understand you would need >2.2kW or even >5kW for serious cutting of thick panels. I would recommend to ask in one of the CNC forums, where people might have experience with such work.
Hi, I prefer not having a laptop connected to the machine when it is running. This typically means using an old laptop (dusty environment). It then also depends on a USB connection. Also I just like having a dedicated controller. Other people might prefer Mach3. There are pros and cons to both, for hobby use I think it is based on personal preference.
Not sure what the benefits would be for cooling a spindle with oil on a hobby machine. It might stay cleaner for longer as nothing organic should grow in it, but personally I have only seen (including industrial) machines with water based coolant for the spindle housing. I am sure there are machines that would benefit from oil cooling, but I am not familiar with them. Also seems easier for a hobby machine to use water based coolant.
Hi, I wouldn't be too worried about water causing a short circuit in the spindle. The water channel should be separated from the electrical wiring. Just make sure to ground the body of the spindle. A lot of equipment in and around the house work with water and electricity, as long as it is properly designed and grounded it should be ok. Just my 2 cents, if you are using something else for coolant and it works, than that is fine as well.
So, I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the EStop on the MPG to work. What baffles me is that pin 15 for the MPG plug on the DDCS is actually outputting 24V. But I would think pin 15 would be looking for a high or low voltage signal, so it doesn’t make sense to me how it’s carrying a voltage potential? Was there anything in particular you had to do to get the EStop to work?
Nothing special, I was lucky enough that it worked on the first try. I used the blue wire for the E-stop. Did you see the wiring table in the PDF on my website? The right column called "soldered" is how I actually soldered the wires to the DDCS connector. Also had some confusion on numbering, buy this setup works for me. I don't have the LED on the pendant working, (did not even try to wire this since I don't need it) but the rest is working. If pin 15 is carrying 24V it is probably closed to COM- by the e-stop. You could check this by pressing and releasing the e-stop and measuring on the wires to which pin The resistance changes from 0 to infinite. Hope this helps.
Just measured it on my pendant connector when disonnected from the controller. The E-stop is indeed opening and closing the connection between pin 15 (E-stop) and pin 8 (COM-)
I wonder if this can work on old real CNC machine. i have an old but great Emco CNC. would that work to bypass the old controller and use the newer one?
In essence it should work also with a larger machine. Just make sure it has all of the features you need ot otherwise look at one of the higher end DDCS models. Note that the DDCS V3.1 does not have position feedback to the controller and there is also no input for a spindle encoder. So no rigid tapping. So it all depends on your requirements.
@@uptimefab7412 my machine is fantastic and precise but works on G and M codes. hard to program. also if something goes wrong in one of the components, its hard to fix
Replacement parts can be expensive or hard to find indeed. I like the Emco machines as well. By chance I am also changing electronics and controller on an Emco machine, but in my case a very small PC turn 50 lathe. (SZGH controller this time)
@@uptimefab7412 cool! i wish you can do another video showing your upgrade on this machine. im sure many will find interest in this video as those Emco machines are fantastic
Bedankt! Ik heb helaas geen video met alle instellingen. Er staan wel settings die ik heb gewijzigd in de pdf in de link onder de video, maar inderdaad niet uitgelegd in detail. Volgens mij heb ik destijds wel een video van een andere gebruiker gezien met settings op youtube.
Hi, thank you for your kind compliments. Good question, I am not sure what the difference is. On the stepperonline site under "digital stepper driver" a table lists the differences between different suffixes, but without any specifications. Also the model without suffix is not mentioned, so I am not sure how that relates to the T-model. Just looked at the spec sheet for their DM556T model and it seems to be suitable for use in a CNC router. If it is actually better than a DM556, I don't know. If you can get a T-model for a good price, you can give that a try. Best of luck with your build!
With 48V the steppers will perform better, but will also generate more heat than with 36v or 24V. From what I have read most small CNC routers will use 36V or lower. Larger machines might benefit from 48V. If you have something like a 6040CNC with NEMA23 motors, I would go for 36V.
Hi, it is the standard "Mach3Mill" post which can be found in the Fusion 360 post library by searching for "Artsoft" or "mach". I could send you mine but it is exactly that one. Hope this helps. Note that I only use this for 3 axis mode. I do not know if it works with a 4th axis as I don't have paid license for Fusion.
Hey thank you very much for the video ! Do you know If these spindle motors from china are BLDC type ? I want to build my own VFD and If it´s BLDC I can drive the coils with rectangular waves and don´t have to bother to make a clean sine waves.
Hi, is there a limit at your VFD how low you can set your frequency ? The upper limit is 400Hz I know but I would like to know If you can slow down your motor down to near 0.
Per the VFD manual the lower frequency can be set as low as 0.0Hz, but I am not sure to how low the spindle would actually respond properly and what practical use it would have to go very low in RPM for milling, but maybe you have a different application in mind. If you search for now forever manual e-100, this has all the possible settings including upper and lower limits. Hope this helps.
What is function of a CNC controller ,I did my engg from India in 1963/1964 when we didn’t have even a calculator but a slide rule ,I know this might sound a very basic thing ,but I want to start from first principles ,thanks
Better to use metal box, not plastics. And also use the proper earthing of the VFD and all power supplier... The earthing is not "optional"... I'm currently also building one controller, unfortunately, the YT does not support adding pictures to the comments...
Thanks, I am updating the grounding in the cabinet at the moment. Should prevent future issues, so good to get it done right. Good luck with your project! Robin
I see you have a USB box I have that the directions show to plug it straight into the computer from the USB in the back of the control box to the computers USB I've done that it doesn't work I was hoping I could ask you what else I need is it designed to just plug in straight out of the box if you could help me that would be great thank you
Hi, I am not sure where you found these directions but I think this does not work. But the controller and PC are both a USB master. There should be one master and one slave. The female A connector indicates the master, which both devices have. Would be very nice though to be able to connect a PC. I think you would need to go for a more advanced controller with LAN.
@@uptimefab7412 It is not possible to connect the DDCS controller direct to the computer via USB. But you can use wireless file transfer. On the DDCS Facebook site, you can find out how to do that
Hi Miki, thanks for the tip. I think they mention the toshiba as an option, which is very expensive. Based on your comment I was looking through the various options and found a SanDisk Connect Wireless USB drive. Apparently this can also connect to your wifi network (instead of creating it's own network) so you should be able to access this from a laptop. Thanks for sparking my interest on this. Just ordered one. If it does not work I can use that for something else. Cost 55 euros. Update: so that did not work.... The Sandisk Connect is a very nice wireless USB dirve that you can connect to directly or through your home wifi network, but not when the drive is plugged in. When plugged in it is in USB drive mode and you cannot access it anymore through wifi. I am letting this one rest for now.
Hi, for signal wires I use at least 22AWG(0.34mm^2) and for steppers and power to stepper drivers I use 18AWG(0.75mm^2). In all cases (for this specific configuration and components) this should be on the safe side.
All shielded cables inside the cabinet are now connected to the central grounding point. See part 3 in this video series. Indeed needed to be corrected.
If you got that from China that was a damn good company. Mine did not look like that inside lol. Fish tubing no solder bare wires bad e-stop. Just replaced the whole thing.
I found on the support site that this controller does not support slave axis and separate homing switches for the slaved motors. That pretty much eliminates this controller as viable for gantry routers with dual gantry motors. Too bad.
@@SuperBooster007 You don’t understand what slave drive really is. Sending the same pulse and direction signals to multiple drives is not a slave drive configuration, it is parallel drive config. There is more to slave drive than driving two motors. In slave drive config each motor can move independently which is the basis for automatic squaring of the gantry during homing routine. Homing routine is different in slave drive set up. The controller takes input from two separate limit switches ( on separate inputs) and moves each end of the gantry until each switch is triggered. If the switches are carefully adjusted, the gantry is set perfectly perpendicular to the axis of movement every time the machine is homed.
you are correct in what you say. But most controllers do not support automatic squaring (including the DDCS 3.1). So using the parallel drive configuration will do just fine. Use hard stops on a small machine like this to square off the gantry, highly accurate and trouble-free forever. The best solution is the simplest one that works...
@@aps3000miki All decent quality controllers support automatic squaring. Even inexpensive Mach3 with $5 parallel port break out board does. Do read my earlier comment because based on your comment I don’t think you understand how automatic squaring of the gantry procedure is executed by the controller. Squaring of the gantry on toy CNC machines is not an issue. But for large production machines it is essential. If you think otherwise then I am guessing your experience is limited to toys.
Hello sir. I m developing mini cnc machine for that i have bought stepper motor with encoder(easy-servo) now my question is that, that is it possible to wiring encoder with this ddcsv2.1?
Hi, as far as I know the DDCS does not have the ability to read back from "in position output" port of a stepper driver, so the closed loop is then only between the motor and the stepper driver, not between motor and DDCS. You should however be able to connect the alarm output of the stepper driver for example to the E-stop in port of the DDCS. Then at least the DDCS will go into E-stop mode when the motor can no longer follow the given commands. I also bought a closed loop stepper motor and driver for the 4th axis but have not tried it yet, however this is probably how I will hook it up. Personally I think just using the alarm and not the in-position feedback is fine for a CNC router but this might be different for other applications.
@@uptimefab7412 i m building cnc Engraving for coins die. And i want itto be precise. Closed loop was in my budget... I m very confused for controller. Whether to go for mach 3 4axis or this ddcs😓
I think both solutions can be precise and reliable. My setup with mach 3 had some issues which I think we're mostly related to the USB interface card, not to mach 3. But mostly I just don't like having a laptop to run the machine. Personal preference. Downside for this controller is you have to use USB stick to transfer programs and it has less features and flexibility than mach3, but it has everything I need. Note that there are now also a expert and plus version of the DDCS, both have ethernet. Indeed difficult decision, I hope you can make a choice by weighing pros and cons for your setup.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you sir... One more question... I m using stepper closed loop with dynamic brake motor for z axis. So can it be connected to ddcs and would the brake will work?
I am not sure, sorry. I have never needed this type of functionality. It might be available in one of their models, maybe their forum members can help with this.
Hi, my french is a bit rusty, but I think you want to know which post processor. Some other people have asked this as well, the standard Mach3 post in fusion 360 works for me.
@@uptimefab7412 bonjour pour le réglage des drivers par rapport au moteur pas à pas on me dis qu'il faut connaître les micropas des moteurs et les ampère sur la notice des moteurs il parle des ampère mai pas des micropas si vous avec une réponse pour moi merci je regarde vos vidéo dommage que je ne parle pas anglais il son instructif
Hi, you can basically use any microstep setting on the steppers as long as it does not exceed the capability of the controller at the maximum speed you are running the router. The motor operates smoother with higher microstep settings, but the higher you go, the less difference you will notice with each increase. I am using 2000 pulses per revolution, which is 1/10 microstep, since a stepper has 200 pulses per revolution. How to calculate DDCS parameters for microstepping is covered in the PDF on my website in the written article.
I bought the Liycy cables in a local parts store, but they can be obtained from many online stores. For example Reichelt ( for people living in Europe).
No problem, the part number is: Lapp 0034704. (PVC, shielded, 4x0.75mm^2) This is very flexible, which is great for both in your cabinet as well as for use in drag chains. I mistakenly ordered some other cable at a later date that is far less flexible, so make sure you get the right type. Visually you can recognize them by the color. (My cable is RAL 7032). The less flexible type is a darker grey.
Hi... Do you have some of Online Class for CNC? Or offer any consultant service? I found a CNC I want in Aliexpress but they need to DIY everything. And seller simply state that he don't want to deal with a Newbie. Therefore, if I don't know what I'm doing, he said it's best not to buy. I try to Learn, but there just too much info without any kind of structure... and my own country, don't offer any class on CNC. Most CNC operator here, often went to nearby country to study, once they back, they either work for a Construction Company or Printing House... So I am totally lost. Thank you. Hopefully you willing to reach out and help.
Hi Austin, if I understand your question correctly, you are primarily looking to get education for programming the CNC. If so, I would recommend watching channels like Tom Stikkelman or NYC CNC. If you are looking for more information on electronics and mechanics of CNC builds, there is also information available, but I have to admit, it is hard to find a single source with all basic information, so it will take some time to find what you need. I unfortunately do not offer any consultancy service, since I already don't have enough time as it is. The only advice I can give you is spend time gathering information from the various sources and read manuals, sorry I am not aware of any shortcuts. I hope you can spend the time because it is a very rewarding hobby when you get things to work.
Great video. This is the boss. I was about to say, I need to give you soldering lessons. The insulation should not know you were there. They all looked good, just not pretty. I kinda like how you drilled all the case holes after you mounted all the expensive components in the case will were drilling into. That would freak me.
I dont know how its in your country but N (neutral) cant be switch on/off its must be stay --- what i mean by it --- just reroute the blue wire and hook it up for straight - dont use the contact in that rele/contactor. you can switch(on/off) only L(life) nothing else ...
Hi, thanks for the tip. I am not sure about this for my country and I don't have an electrical background, but this was my reasoning: in my research I found a diagram from a supplier where both N and L were switched (DamenCNC). Also, both the contactor and mains disconnect have marked "N" terminals, which are also marked as such in the manuals. I have no way of knowing which is actually line, since I can rotate the wall plug. Therefore, I think there is no harm in switching both, as this is the equivalent to pulling out the mains wall plug. If someone can indicate what the standard is in the Netherlands and why only one of the leads can be switched that would be much appreciated. Note that the yellow/green ground wire is bypassing the switch. Thanks again for your feedback and sorry I do not have a definitive answer at the moment about the current standard.
@@uptimefab7412 What i've googled we're using wall plug type E also same wall socket --- you should have same plug in your machine - because you must have L(life) in socket againts your left hand(heart) N must be on right side and Ground on the PIN(yellow/green wire). so you'll always have L on the right side also you cant use plug with 2 pins thats how its should be and i hope in every europe country. Mainly its for safety reasons and how the breakers and RCD (those you should have in your electrical cabinet in your house/apartment)works properly ... its hard to explain in english but this is how I wiring our stuffs
@@Mil1d4_66 Hi, where I live we use the F type plug (or C if ungrounded). The F plug is reversible, meaning you can rotate the plug 180 degrees and it will fit fine. You can't see which side is L or N when looking at the plug. With AC circuits it doesn't really matter how it is wired and typically switches for appliances switch only one of the wires. However, to me it seems safer for a CNC to completely disconnect both wires, especially since I can't predict which one is L.
Thanks for your comment. A number of other people have mentioned this. There is a lot of conflicting information about this topic. I know hobbyists do it and I have also seen commercially available equipment with the VFD inside the same cabinet as other electronics. There is of course the risk of EMI and heat dissipation. When these are mitigated it should be possible. However, I have no reliable way to measure EMI but heat dissipation is fine in my case. So that leaves us with that it is not possible as an amateur/hobbyist to determine if there will be issues with EMI. I would therefore not recommend other people to do this, but this is what I am doing and so far it worked. If you have any links to where people can find information on EMI guidelines for VFDs it would be greatly appreciated. Best, Robin
@uptimefab7412 you can buy EMF readers. Generally, people do YT to help and don't intentionally want to mislead people, but the problem with the Internet is that people can come across as though they know what they are talking about. It's difficult to find genuine experts. Even suppliers' kits, especially from China, are poorly put together. Kits with individual PSUs for each stepper should be avoided. It is better to have 1 larger PSU and get one with built-in RFI suppression. Ideally, you want to keep your high and low voltage circuits away from each other as much as possible.
I hope that I did not come across as a professional. Indeed there is a lot of information by non-experts and I may have just added some more myself. I think it is good to keep in mind that all of this project is hobby level stuff. This includes the electronics but also the router itself. Having said this, I have searched extensively for wiring practices and EMI design rules. There seem to be a lot of things that work and on the other hand there are many experts that say how things should be done (mostly without source) referring to how it is done in industrial equipment. Since I am not able to find the answers online I went with what was the most practical solution and made it work with what I have. This is also my way of working in a hobby project, not recommend to others. I have found many articles saying that the VFD can or should be put in a separate enclosure in case of issues (no references to standards prescribing this requirement). But also a lot of people just placing the VFD in the same enclosure. I just took the practical approach to place it in the same enclosure if I don't experience issues, which I don't. Also not with my lathe, where the VFD is also in the same cabinet. Thanks for the tip on the EMF meter. Looks like great equipment for troubleshooting. Many videos about paranormal stuff, so I would also have to find my way to good information there. Sorry for the long-winded answer. This actually means I don't have a good answer :).
Thank you for sharing your experience with the rest of the CNC planet. Be blessed. Salutations from France.
Note: For proper shielding of the stepper cables, the shield should be connected at one side to ground inside the cabinet. Also for external shielded cables. See video part3 for updates to the controller and check the pinned comment on that video for best practices.
Thank you so much for sharing your build! You have inspired me in so many areas of my build. Even better you introduced me to @corvetteguy50 who has taught me so much. My box design and many of the parts are similar, although my design is based around a Masso controller. I truly appreciate you sharing this build!
Thanks, much appreciated! The masso seems like a very nice system.
Why should it only be connected to ground at one side and not both sides?
I read from several sources that one should connect a shield only on one end to prevent ground loops, from grounds with different potential. Also there are sources that indicate that for specific data transfer applications it is better to ground at both ends. Most information for CNCs seems to indicate on one side, so I also took that approach. As you may know there is a lot of contradiction on this subject though, but I just went with the sources that I thought related most to my application.
Why is your coolingwater pink? Some additive? Thank you for very informative videos.
Great work. I'm no electrician but (sorry to report) I think to actually shield those wires on 22:43 you'd need to connect the mesh shielding to ground and not clip it like you did.
Hi, I think you are absolutely right, the shield should be connected to ground to make it effective. This would mean I have poor wiring skills on top of poor soldering skills :) I will leave a pinned comment with this update. This does mean I would have to get a 5-pin connectors to get the shield through the non-conductive housing and connect it to ground. Thanks for you comment, much appreciated!
@@uptimefab7412 usually the ground is passed through the connector metal housing itself, at least that's what I saw in e.g. Ethernet CAT 7
Thank you for sharing. I build a CNC from spare parts salvaged from large tech machines (airport luggage scanner and something used in IC chip manufacturing). I wish there were more videos like this one when I started that project. Great job!
A luggage scanner must be the most BORING stuff around. Well done giving it a worthy life.
I highly recommend tap drills for sheet metal. They drill the hole and tap it in one operation. Quick and clean.
Delighted to find this detailed tutorial, I have bought a secondhand cnc router that is run by a dedicated Linux computer and LinuxCNC everything works individually but there is no real information out there on troubleshooting such a system. I have purchased this exact controller to make it stand alone the same as my cnc laser. Thank you so much for the time and effort you have put in, cheers from NZ.
Thank you! Good to see the content is useful. Best of luck with the project!
just a side note, shielded cable only works if you ground the shielding at one end.
Thanks, received several comments on this. I left a pinned comment regarding this topic, so viewers are aware it needs to be connected to ground at one end if they want shielding to work on their cables.
Please put other video for about how to do the program in this Device, It would be very helpful for many people, I am so impressed about explaining very clearly
Thank you! I am not sure if I will be doing another video on the CNC, but if so, I will try to include more on operation and programming.
I have the same Router. A little tip: Get rid of the small connectors at the stepper motors. Replace with larger round 'aircraft' type connectors. I did and got a huge improvement in smoothness in the router. I suspect they are a source of significant volt drop.
Hi Stephen, thanks for the tip! That sounds very plausible. They not only seem a bit flimsy, also they get a bit warm during operation, there might be too small connector pins or poor connection. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Do you have any links for them
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge. I am in the middle of building my DIY CNC with a proper control panel and your video have been extremely helpful.
Thanks, good luck with your project!
Hey did you finish building?
Good morning 🌅, great content, at some point I hope to rebuild my travelling carriage on my wood lathe, as I had blown the driver a few months ago, the carriage is supposed to travel from left to right and the slide on Top used to go in and out manually, I’m hoping to make it all drive-by CNC, at the moment it’s a bit beyond me, from France.
Sounds like a fun project! If you just take it one step at time and do some research online it can get you a long way. Lots of good information out there to get started, best of luck if you do end up converting the lathe!
Superb video, very informative, I wish others would be as precise and straight forward, instead of waffling on for hours about nothing. 😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you!
I am not a big fan of mounting the VFD in the same enclosure due to EMI. To help reduce any potential EMI problems, one can add some ferrite magnets to the signal wires/cables to protect them. I don't like using a plastic box for the enclosure because they offer no shielding. EMI/RFI can cause a lot of hard to diagnose problems that can send you on a wild goose chase. The video is well edited and your work is great. The layout looks good. It does take a lot of time and research to design and build an enclosure.
Thanks, it was quite a learning experience. The feedback from you and others very helpful to get a good understanding of best ptactices. I admit to sometimes taking not the best but the easiest approach to make sure I can make something with the tools I have available. An example is the plastic enclosure, which is great for a "sandbox" CNC project. Cutting another hole is very easy, but indeed not good for EMI. I will keep your feedback in mind for a next controller cabinet, enough room to improve. Thanks again! Robin
The only suggestion I can offer is to drill the holes at the corners of the rectangular cutouts differently: You can put the hole centered on the corner and save the filing. The rounded corner is less likely to crack too.
Thanks for the tip!
Great video. One thing I noticed: shielded cables are good as long as the shielding mesh has a connection to ground. Therefore, you have to provide contact between the mesh and the connector's housing. Otherwise, it will not bring much effect.
Hi Martin, thank you for your feedback on this. My way of doing it was indeed not correct. I had a comment on this earlier and placed a note in the website article together with other feedback and new insights after releasing the video. Regardless, thank you for your comment, much appreciated. This confirms the right approach.
Just some advice, the general rule of electronics is your load should be no more than 80% of the total current. SO...if you have a 10 Amp power supply, the max current should not exceed 8A. Otherwise, things tend to get hot...really hot. Same goes for wire gauges. So the total current of all stepper motors should not exceed 8A for a 10A power supply. It doesn't matter if they are drawing max power at the same time or not, it's a safety rule. Seen too many fires from people thinking 10A means they can use all 10A but don't realize the internal components are in excess of 180 degrees when doing so. When under the 80% rule, things don't reach unsafe temps unless it's a faulty component. Fans just delay the inevitable at that point. Be safe and use the 80% rule!
Thank you for your advice, much appreciated!
@@uptimefab7412 no problem. Glad someone could learn something from me!
In the case, you will work at the case, you can replace the self cutted taps with rivet nuts. This should be much stronger than the taps in this thin sheet. Only a advice.
That sounds like a good option. I went for tapping to make the stepper drivers flush with the back plate for heat distribution, but indeed doing this in thin sheet is not the best option. If I do end up taking it apart at some point I might give the rivet nuts a try. Thanks for the advice.
Great video, well-executed. Not everything is correct but we have Part 2 to look forward to. Thanks for sharing.
Dang - if I only had a neighbor like you
Thank you for sharing your experience with us
Great project! The total price to buy all the parts + tax for this on Amazon is around $1,450 usd.
Hi, my estimate came out a bit lower, but I just didn't keep track of all the various parts I bought over several months. Thanks for looking up the prices. I bought items like the controller and 4th axis from ali express, which should be a bit cheaper. I think I paid less than 1000 euro in total or at least I hope so :)
Update - Just found some more invoices. Mine add up to around 1000 euro (which could be more in USD), but I might have missed the odd bits and pieces that add up quickly. Not a cheap hobby. Leave out the 4th axis and you can save 200.
Compared to you I am a techno-peasant. I mean, i could not begin to build anything like your cnc. Even with your great instructions. That said, can you recommend a cnc that i could purchase for $1,500 or less? I need to cut aluminum up to half inch. Im considering the shapeoko. Thoughts?
Thanks! I have not looked at cnc routers for a while since I am not in the market for a new one. The shapeoko does seem to be a popular system but I don't have any experience with it.
Ausgeseichnet arbeit! Vielen dank!
I am currently building my second control box and upgrading as well, I think I will use also a PILZ Safety relay for the E-Stop and tie that into the controller cutting the Enable to the drives as well as all other power but 24V will remain On. Thanks for sharing it helped me in my decisions as well.
Thanks, sounds like an interesting solution. Good luck with your project!
Nice work. Tedious, but fun in its own way and frustrating at the same time.
Thanks! Indeed quite a bit of work but it is great to see when it actually works in the end. I will do some more tedious video editing and hopefully upload the end result soon.
Hey ,thanks for the upload.
Please help me how do you setup the g55 ,g56 ect (pssst please explain so a caveman like me can understand.🙂)
Hi, of course. Assuming you mean how to set it up on the controller (not in relation to your part) it is fairly straightforward with the DDCS: in the main menu press "tab" until G54 is highlighted. Then with "A+" and "A-" you can select any offset between G54 and G59 (or even machine coordinates if you don't use home switches). Then just press "shift" followed by one of the keys indicated in lower right of the screen to zero all or just one of the axis in you current work offset. You can manually zero machine coordinates in the same way. Note that if you do end up setting machine coordinates to zero with this method, all of your Gxx offsets will shift accordingly, so first set machine coordinates and only then set Gxx.
Hope this answers your question.
Great job. Just waiting deliveries and i'll start same kind of project.
However one question: I'm a bit surprised when you write "Since I experienced lost steps with the old controller I decided to use shielded cable wherever possible" and none of your cable has its shield connected (in one point) to the earth, which means that you shield is useless.
Thanks for the comment. Absolutely correct. I already left a pinned comment when I received feedback on this before. Still very much appreciated though! Good luck with your project!
OMG Thank you! I bought a 6090 chinese CNC machine a few years back. The 4th axis controller board died on me and I have not been able to find one that works for my CNC. I am totally doing this for my CNC. I want to get the 4th axis working again and I want to be able to find replacement parts for it too! Subscribed!
EDIT: 4th Axis stepper driver not controller board
You can take any stepper driver.
I got 2 different drivers. None of them want to work with the cnc :(
@@oscarreyes4511 Different or differnt names?
2 different brands of drivers and none of them worked
That's odd. The step and direction signals from the DDCS are 5V. Can you check if the step and direction input on your drivers respond to 5v? Just a guess but if they need 24v input signal they might not do anything with 5v signals. Is there a green LED to indicate the drive is working? Also double check the connection on your stepper motor.
Why do many controllers still use something as old as a parallel port to communicate with computers? Thank you for your video !!
A USB stick is better but would have really liked this controller to have a LAN port. The newer ones do have it. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@uptimefab7412 thank You
Excellent. Thank you for this video.
Does this cnc controll have dedicated slave drive outputs..or do you end up using a additional axis for each slaved drive
Hi, there is unfortunately no slave output. I believe some other DDCS models do have this option.
Hello. Do I understand correctly that when the E-STOP button is activated, the contacts of the magnetic starter open and the power supply of the stepper motors is turned off and the spindle falls along the Z axis?
Hi, in case the e-stop of the pendant is used the steppers are stopped but still under power, holding their position. In case the external E-stop is used the power to the VFD and stepper drivers is cut. This indeed means that the steppers are no longer under power. Since my machine is very light the Z-axis just stays in place even when all power is turned off. So it does not require a brake on the Z-axis.
I am so excited about the information that is in this video. I really like the way you started by showing how everything is connected and when you traced the wires with the green tracer i was able to have a full understanding of how everything works together. I gave you a like and you have a new subscriber. Thank you for your time and God Bless!!
Hi, it is great to see that the information was useful for you! Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment, much appreciated!
Robin
There is no words to describe about your coaching please let me know main router motor ratings and other stepper motor ratings. Also I request you where we have to see your theory lessons . I appreciate your brainy work
Hi, thanks for your kind comment. The spindle is 1500W and the stepper motors are 3Amp, 2Nm.
HI ! I was inspired by the way you wired you contactor for the E stop . I tried, the wiring worked, turned off and On according to the plan.
But I witnessed a smoke coming from the contactor (only when stopped) at first i thought it was my mistake ( it is), checked cabling. then i checked the contactor in itself before realising that the coil inside the contactor is only 8 ohms , which make it run a 24v/8 = 3 amps , welll , there is why it's smokee but works. my mistake was (i think) that I did not put LED in this wiring, but i didn't know it's function was also that of a resistance in this loop. also permitting to "drain the coil of current " (i don't know the term) when we e stop the machine ^^.
Do you agree ?
I don't think you spoke about it in your video, but i think it is important to consider , because i'm not the only dumb one on the internet ^^.
Thanks for your content.
Hi, smoke from your contactor is not good. This probably means something is not wired correctly. Are you sure you connected the contacts for the coil terminal to 24VDC? Please triple check all of your connections or have an electrician verify it. If you indeed have a 24V contactor you should be able to connect it directly to a push button in line with a 24V power supply ( for the specific Siemens model I used). No resistor is needed. I do not have any resistor in between. My LED is in parallel with the contactor, so the is no voltage drop over the coil due to the LED. Please also check all of your other connections: the auxiliary contacts as well as the mains connections you are trying to switch. Note that mains voltage can pose a serious danger. If in any doubt please contact a professional to connect and verify your installation.
Would servo motors (and obviously servo drives) work with this system as well?
Hi you cannot connect servo motors that require a feedback loop to the controller. I think you could connect servo drives that have an internal feedback loop, but I have not tried this. I was planning to try this with a cheap servo motor set, but this is not on the short term planning.
The line diagram the current comes into the main and than to a (dc 24v power supply)... It shows three (power supplies) the first in line is in question. (little white looking breaker)
Does the din rail circuit breaker count as a 24v dc power supply?
I looked a the list of materials I didnt see a circuit breaker.
trying to do just the same set up minus the spindle vfr.
what is the rating on the din rail breaker?
Thanks
Hi, this is indeed a power supply, not a circuit breaker. I understand the confusion, it indeed looks a bit like a breaker. It is the Mean Well DR-15-24.
@@uptimefab7412 Right I get two power supplies one for screen ddcsv3 and one for the steppers... what does the Mean Well 24V DIN Rail Power Supply power? thanks I'm really grateful.
Cant wait for the next Video.
I thought you just needed two power supplies
I initially intended to have both the large power supply and the one for the DDCS behind the contactor and since I wanted to disable the steppers (E-stop) without shutting down the DDCS this would require 3 power supplies, including the one for the contactor. I later decided to have the DDCS go around the contactor altogether. So, in this case it would be possible to combine the 2 smaller power supplies. However, in my research before starting this project I read people were using a separate power supply for a contactor to avoid voltage spikes affecting other 24VDC components in the same circuit when the contactor switches on or off, so therefore I decided to keep it on a separate small power supply. I am not 100% sure if this is really needed, but I am playing it safe to avoid any issues with the DDCS controller. The DIN rail power supply only cost me around 15 euro. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for your feedback!
--- Update: I have ordered a surge protector for the contactor (siemens 3RT2916‑1DG00), which should reduce spikes down to less than 1V. This should eliminate the issue. Note that I do not have a scope and cannot test this. This is according to the Siemens manual.
@@uptimefab7412 yes it does thanks again
I am woudering if this controller is capable of run subrotines with m98 and m99 codes.
Is this features implemented in this controller?
Hi sorry for the late reply. It unfortunately does not support m98 and m99. It is not in the manual, but I also tried on the controller itself, doesn't work. I noticed that the Expert model does have this function in the manual, maybe other models as well, did not check.
Hello again, UptimeFab,
I have noticed that your very clear wiring diagram shows the single 24V DC Power Supply being connected to both the main DC power input of the Module and the input of the I/O DC input, These are recommended to be supplied by separate 24V supplies to avoid Earth loop issues. This is about the only sensible information I could elicit from Digital Dream, when they could rouse themselves enough to answer an e-mail. I fitted a 1AMP 24V DC supply to supply the I/O terminals separately. This is good electronics practice. I thought this might be connected to my MPG non-functionality but, alas no.
Hi Jim, thanks, I noticed this as well later on in the build. In the new version of the wiring diagram I have a separate power supply for the unit and the IO, same as you. Also found this later on in the manual and changed it. The wiring diagram was updated a couple of weeks ago to reflect this.
Hallo Robin. Vanaf de "homing end switches" gaan 4 draden naar de controller. Betekend dat je 1 draad gebruikt als nul-draad die je verbindt met alle 3 de switches? Ik kan het niet goed uit de video halen.
Hoi Ben, bedankt voor je reactie. Klopt, precies zoals je aangeeft heb ik 1 draad gebruikt om alle switches te verbinden met COM-. Ze hebben wel allemaal een aparte draad naar een eigen home pin (7, 24 en 27). Hierdoor kan ik alle 3 schakelaars verbinden met een 4 polige kabel. Je moet dan wel bij elke schakelaar de nul draad "aftappen", maar dit is prima te doen. Gr, Robin.
My only suggestion is to make sure you have at least 50% air space in your enclosure as per IEC Code. Otherwise, nice work.
Thanks!
I see that you haven't connected grounding cable from the spindle 4 pin and from port E of VFD... Is it for certain safe?
Hi, the VFD has a metal housing (under the plastic cover) that is already grounded by bolting it to the metal back plate of the controller box. From what I understand it is better not to ground parts in 2 places to avoid ground loops. I am not sure how much of an issue that is in CNC applications, but at least my VFD is now already grounded through the housing, which should be sufficient.
@@uptimefab7412 have you checked with multimeter a connection of housing with grounding pin? i don't know your model, but in my vfd aluminum radiator on the back isn't connected with grounding of vfd circuit board, so i have to ground it by the grounding pin.
I just checked with the multimeter and luckily with my model the ground pin is connected to the metal housing of the VFD. Thanks for the tip anyway! It is indeed best not to assume the housing is connected to ground just because it is made out of metal.
Hi, great video, I'm just curious about the contactor. From what I have read (im very new to this), contactors are used in either an ac or dc circuit. Would you care to shed some light on this as your contactor has ac and dc connected to it in the same circuit(?)
Thanks
Hi, sure, I am using a contactor that has a DC connection for opening and closing the switched contacts. The contacts are switching AC current. The contacts for engaging the contactor and the ones that are being switched by the contactor are completely separate. There are also contactors that operate on AC, but I did not want to have a 230V AC push button on the front panel to activate the contactor. I prefer to have that low voltage DC. That is the main reason for using a DC contactor. Same argument for an Estop in parallel with the push button. Also if you want to activate or deactivate a contactor from a controller or any other electric circuit, DC is easier.
That makes sense, thanks for the reply 👍
For thin metal just use n2 tap
Where did you buy the cable from, I can’t find any suppliers that sell it per meter and most I have found is a lighter gauge
If you are in Europe, try Conrad.com or Reichelt.com. I am from the Netherlands where several suppliers sell it like automation24, techniekwebshop among others. If you are from the US or other part of the world I am not sure where to get this type of cable. Try searching for "Lapp 0034704".
Would the wiring be roughly the same for the newest v4.1 controller?
Yes, the connections might be in a different place but all connections should be roughly the same.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you!
Did you ever create a wiring diagram for this project. If so could I have a copy for a guide to my build, cheers
Sure, it is in the website article linked in the description. Find the pdf somewhere in the middle of the article.
Thank a lot for sharing so much detail information. It could be a great reference to my Next CNC router, my CNC router used 2 Y stepper motors, maybe have to select different Display board.
I have version Omio 2.1 of the controller you are using and would like to know what post processor you use for your files? I'm currently using GRBL, but want to learn if there are others that work with the controller box.
Hi, I am using the Mach 3 post processor in Fusion 360.
Hello Robin, I have seen many videos on UA-cam, but I found your video the most instructive and professional, so I am currently building a CNC controller 1 to 1 like yours. In most CNC videos I see also the use of end-switches, like inductive sensors. Is there a reason why you did not use these? I presume the DDCS can handle input from end-switches?
Hi Ben, thanks, nice to see the videos have been useful for you. There is no specific reason I chose mechanical switches. The DDCS can also handle inductive switches, so if that has your preference you can use those as well. I did not spend a lot of time to figure out which type would be best for my application and just bought the mechanical type. I think both work fine for a home CNC router. The mechanical ones might be more sensitive to dirt, while the inductive ones can be sensitive to EMI. I would say, go with your personal preference. Same goes for other choises I made. Some at are just based on what components I could find or had on hand, other solutions or brands could also work. Please make sure to read comments of other viewers as well if you haven't done so already to get a balanced perspective. Good luck on your project!
Thanks for your quick respons, I think I will go for the inductive sensors. My machine wil be used for milling natural stone, Have to use water to prevent dust clouds and clear the dirt. So the mechanical part of the machine wil quite a challenge.
Hello Robin! Im confused about soldering mpg connector. It has 21 wires and connector has 15 pins only. Can you help please?
I figured out the problem. It's necessary to push the side button when operating. Thank you for detailed videos.
Thanks for sharing your issue and solution. Luckily you found the cause quickly. The side button is quite useful and becomes second nature to press after using it a couple of times. Cheers, Robin
How does it continue where it left off when the power goes out?
Hi, not sure, never tried cutting the power during a program.
I am also building control box, i've got the same type enclosure and i have a problem with mounting holes in corners - they are limiting my space on mounting plate, if i cover them, i will not be able to fix the plate, do you have any jdea how to solve this problem?
Hi, you could make some spacers (stand offs) that fit exactly between the back of the enclosure and the plate and then just mount it with a long bolt and a nut at the back of the enclosure, similar to how I mounted the TV bracket. It must be said though, if you don't have enough room to use the existing mounting points on the plate, you also probably don't have enough room for sufficient air flow, which can lead to heat building up in the enclosure. So if you have high components all the way up to the corner of the enclosure you should actually buy a larger box. Another option is for example to place the VFD in a different enclosure to free up some space.
@@uptimefab7412 Thanx i will try this. Enclosure is large enough for all od my parts, i just need to get some more space for cooling as you say, cables etc. By the way. How do you like that DDCS controller since You installed it inside? I am thinking about buying some new controller. Does it have any functions for correcting some minor imperfections in my machine geometry, You know, a skew axes for example?
The DDCS is a nice low cost controller. If you don't need any advanced functions like a built in PLC then it works fine. The new DDCS V4.1 has some useful upgrades like a LAN port. I also like the SZGH models. More advanced (PLC, macro) but larger and more expensive. It all depends on your needs and budget. My DDCSV3.1 as far as I know doesn't have an option to correct for skewed axes. It does have a backlash correction option.
Hello friend excellent videos, I have a question how to add fuse holders to your electrical panel? would they be necessary? I hope you can help me, I will carry out this process on my machine and I already have the fuse holders
Hi, if you have a separate fuse holder you should also be able to place this in the mains line before the mains switch. I am not sure if this is necessary or required, but I added a fuse that is significantly lower amperage than the fuse in my house, so it should trigger faster and therefore offer a bit more protection in case of an overload or short.
@@uptimefab7412 Gracias amigo
Hi Can you share the controller drawing with the servo motor and drive
Sure, it is included in the web site article linked in the description. Somewhere in the middel of that article you will find a pdf with all the details.
On the 4 core cable where did you connect the shield to ?
Wondered that too, sure looks like a good antenna from what I could see.
Hi thanks for commenting. Please see the pinned comment on shielding. I have just fixed this on my machine, was not as much work as I expected, so not worth skipping. If I have some time to edit a new video in the upcoming weeks I will include these corrections.
Thank you so much your documents
i love it. thank for all
Can DDCS be used for a lathe CNC conversion.....
Hi, unfortunately DDCS controllers are only available for mills. Controllers with specific lathe functions are a bit less common, but you could go for a SZGH controller, MASSO or PC based solution like EdingCNC, Linux CNC or Mach3/4. There are probably more options, but these are the ones I considered.
@@uptimefab7412 thank-you for your reply...
Will try n have a look at the controllers you mentioned..
Cheers
Hi! i have got a question.. if i need to start a motor three phase with a AFD (variable frequency drive), is it necessary put a contactor?
Hi, the contactor is not related specifically to the VFD, but to all components in the controller in general. The VFD will run fine without a contactor, but contactors are typically used as a safety feature.
@@uptimefab7412 Excellet!Tranks! i have another question, Where you connect the spindle motor? To the VFD exit terminals U;V,W? or, in terminals AD-, AD+, AP-, AP+?
@@nicolasasselborn5722 VFD exit U,V,W
Dear what parameter should i take into account while selecting my spindel ... i mean if i want to mill a 3cm wood door .. so how much torque and power do i need to decide my spindel can y help in that
I have no personal experience with cutting thick panels, I typically make lighter cuts and use small diameter end mills. But from what I understand you would need >2.2kW or even >5kW for serious cutting of thick panels. I would recommend to ask in one of the CNC forums, where people might have experience with such work.
Is there any disadvantage to the Mach 3 controller
Hi, I prefer not having a laptop connected to the machine when it is running. This typically means using an old laptop (dusty environment). It then also depends on a USB connection. Also I just like having a dedicated controller. Other people might prefer Mach3. There are pros and cons to both, for hobby use I think it is based on personal preference.
What is your take on useing oil instead of water?
Not sure what the benefits would be for cooling a spindle with oil on a hobby machine. It might stay cleaner for longer as nothing organic should grow in it, but personally I have only seen (including industrial) machines with water based coolant for the spindle housing. I am sure there are machines that would benefit from oil cooling, but I am not familiar with them. Also seems easier for a hobby machine to use water based coolant.
@@uptimefab7412 Never mix electricity with water. So I'm going down that route.
Hi, I wouldn't be too worried about water causing a short circuit in the spindle. The water channel should be separated from the electrical wiring. Just make sure to ground the body of the spindle. A lot of equipment in and around the house work with water and electricity, as long as it is properly designed and grounded it should be ok. Just my 2 cents, if you are using something else for coolant and it works, than that is fine as well.
Awesome work 👍
Great work! Thank you for sharing!
Are you satisfied with the Chinese control unit? Is it worth buying? Tnx
Yes, it is quite a basic controller, but has the functionality I need. I am pretty happy with it.
So, I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the EStop on the MPG to work. What baffles me is that pin 15 for the MPG plug on the DDCS is actually outputting 24V. But I would think pin 15 would be looking for a high or low voltage signal, so it doesn’t make sense to me how it’s carrying a voltage potential? Was there anything in particular you had to do to get the EStop to work?
Nothing special, I was lucky enough that it worked on the first try. I used the blue wire for the E-stop. Did you see the wiring table in the PDF on my website? The right column called "soldered" is how I actually soldered the wires to the DDCS connector. Also had some confusion on numbering, buy this setup works for me. I don't have the LED on the pendant working, (did not even try to wire this since I don't need it) but the rest is working. If pin 15 is carrying 24V it is probably closed to COM- by the e-stop. You could check this by pressing and releasing the e-stop and measuring on the wires to which pin The resistance changes from 0 to infinite. Hope this helps.
Just measured it on my pendant connector when disonnected from the controller. The E-stop is indeed opening and closing the connection between pin 15 (E-stop) and pin 8 (COM-)
I wonder if this can work on old real CNC machine. i have an old but great Emco CNC. would that work to bypass the old controller and use the newer one?
In essence it should work also with a larger machine. Just make sure it has all of the features you need ot otherwise look at one of the higher end DDCS models. Note that the DDCS V3.1 does not have position feedback to the controller and there is also no input for a spindle encoder. So no rigid tapping. So it all depends on your requirements.
@@uptimefab7412 my machine is fantastic and precise but works on G and M codes. hard to program. also if something goes wrong in one of the components, its hard to fix
Replacement parts can be expensive or hard to find indeed. I like the Emco machines as well. By chance I am also changing electronics and controller on an Emco machine, but in my case a very small PC turn 50 lathe. (SZGH controller this time)
@@uptimefab7412 cool! i wish you can do another video showing your upgrade on this machine. im sure many will find interest in this video as those Emco machines are fantastic
I am planning some build videos on this project as well in near future with the current state of the lathe. Fun little machine, this CNC lathe.
Mooi uitgelegd is er een video met hoe je de basis instelling doet
Instelling bedoel ik
Bedankt! Ik heb helaas geen video met alle instellingen. Er staan wel settings die ik heb gewijzigd in de pdf in de link onder de video, maar inderdaad niet uitgelegd in detail. Volgens mij heb ik destijds wel een video van een andere gebruiker gezien met settings op youtube.
Excellent tutorial...thanks for sharing.
Hi. Great work, i will 'copy' your configuration. Do you know which is the difference between DM556 and DM556T drivers ? For what stay the final 'T' ?
Hi, thank you for your kind compliments. Good question, I am not sure what the difference is. On the stepperonline site under "digital stepper driver" a table lists the differences between different suffixes, but without any specifications. Also the model without suffix is not mentioned, so I am not sure how that relates to the T-model. Just looked at the spec sheet for their DM556T model and it seems to be suitable for use in a CNC router. If it is actually better than a DM556, I don't know. If you can get a T-model for a good price, you can give that a try. Best of luck with your build!
@@uptimefab7412 Thanks a lot for your reply. I will try again to find info on Internet but for the moment no lucky !
Hi. Do you think is a bad idea to feed the DM556/DM556T with a 48 volts power supply (Max voltage is 48V) ? Or is it better 36 volts ?
With 48V the steppers will perform better, but will also generate more heat than with 36v or 24V. From what I have read most small CNC routers will use 36V or lower. Larger machines might benefit from 48V. If you have something like a 6040CNC with NEMA23 motors, I would go for 36V.
@@uptimefab7412 i Have a work Bee with nema 23 upgraded To A queenbee ultra so i think 36 volt is better. Thanks a Lot for your opinion And help
This is the video I've been looking for... WOW thank you sir.
I cant wait for video number 2.
#Subscribe you rock!
keep up the great work.
Thank You. I have been looking for a on this subject
Where did you get your post code from?
Hi, I am just using a standard mach3 post processor.
@@uptimefab7412 I basically have some machine setup. Can you send me a copy of your post?
Hi, it is the standard "Mach3Mill" post which can be found in the Fusion 360 post library by searching for "Artsoft" or "mach". I could send you mine but it is exactly that one. Hope this helps. Note that I only use this for 3 axis mode. I do not know if it works with a 4th axis as I don't have paid license for Fusion.
Gracias por compartir conocimento!!
Hey thank you very much for the video ! Do you know If these spindle motors from china are BLDC type ? I want to build my own VFD and If it´s BLDC I can drive the coils with rectangular waves and don´t have to bother to make a clean sine waves.
Hi, I am not sure what specific motor type is in the typical router spindle.
Hi, is there a limit at your VFD how low you can set your frequency ? The upper limit is 400Hz I know but I would like to know If you can slow down your motor down to near 0.
Per the VFD manual the lower frequency can be set as low as 0.0Hz, but I am not sure to how low the spindle would actually respond properly and what practical use it would have to go very low in RPM for milling, but maybe you have a different application in mind. If you search for now forever manual e-100, this has all the possible settings including upper and lower limits. Hope this helps.
What is function of a CNC controller ,I did my engg from India in 1963/1964 when we didn’t have even a calculator but a slide rule ,I know this might sound a very basic thing ,but I want to start from first principles ,thanks
It is a modern slide ruler that steers axes of the machine according to coordinates in the CNC program.
Better to use metal box, not plastics. And also use the proper earthing of the VFD and all power supplier... The earthing is not "optional"... I'm currently also building one controller, unfortunately, the YT does not support adding pictures to the comments...
Thanks, I am updating the grounding in the cabinet at the moment. Should prevent future issues, so good to get it done right.
Good luck with your project! Robin
I see you have a USB box I have that the directions show to plug it straight into the computer from the USB in the back of the control box to the computers USB I've done that it doesn't work I was hoping I could ask you what else I need is it designed to just plug in straight out of the box if you could help me that would be great thank you
Hi, I am not sure where you found these directions but I think this does not work. But the controller and PC are both a USB master. There should be one master and one slave. The female A connector indicates the master, which both devices have. Would be very nice though to be able to connect a PC. I think you would need to go for a more advanced controller with LAN.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you
@@uptimefab7412 It is not possible to connect the DDCS controller direct to the computer via USB. But you can use wireless file transfer. On the DDCS Facebook site, you can find out how to do that
Hi Miki, thanks for the tip. I think they mention the toshiba as an option, which is very expensive. Based on your comment I was looking through the various options and found a SanDisk Connect Wireless USB drive. Apparently this can also connect to your wifi network (instead of creating it's own network) so you should be able to access this from a laptop. Thanks for sparking my interest on this. Just ordered one. If it does not work I can use that for something else. Cost 55 euros.
Update: so that did not work.... The Sandisk Connect is a very nice wireless USB dirve that you can connect to directly or through your home wifi network, but not when the drive is plugged in. When plugged in it is in USB drive mode and you cannot access it anymore through wifi. I am letting this one rest for now.
Which gauge of wire do you use?
Hi, for signal wires I use at least 22AWG(0.34mm^2) and for steppers and power to stepper drivers I use 18AWG(0.75mm^2). In all cases (for this specific configuration and components) this should be on the safe side.
There's no any reason in shielded cable when you didn't connect the shield to the ground.
All shielded cables inside the cabinet are now connected to the central grounding point. See part 3 in this video series. Indeed needed to be corrected.
@@uptimefab7412 Yea. Already seen that you have fixed this issue ))
Did not get everything right on the first try, but we are getting there :) Thanks for the feedback!
Merci encore pour votre réponse
If you got that from China that was a damn good company. Mine did not look like that inside lol. Fish tubing no solder bare wires bad e-stop. Just replaced the whole thing.
More fun to do it yourself as well, was a great learning experience for me.
I found on the support site that this controller does not support slave axis and separate homing switches for the slaved motors.
That pretty much eliminates this controller as viable for gantry routers with dual gantry motors. Too bad.
you can just split the signal for the Y axis though to drive it as a slave.
@@SuperBooster007
You don’t understand what slave drive really is.
Sending the same pulse and direction signals to multiple drives is not a slave drive configuration, it is parallel drive config.
There is more to slave drive than driving two motors. In slave drive config each motor can move independently which is the basis for automatic squaring of the gantry during homing routine.
Homing routine is different in slave drive set up. The controller takes input from two separate limit switches ( on separate inputs) and moves each end of the gantry until each switch is triggered. If the switches are carefully adjusted, the gantry is set perfectly perpendicular to the axis of movement every time the machine is homed.
you are correct in what you say. But most controllers do not support automatic squaring (including the DDCS 3.1). So using the parallel drive configuration will do just fine. Use hard stops on a small machine like this to square off the gantry, highly accurate and trouble-free forever. The best solution is the simplest one that works...
@@aps3000miki
All decent quality controllers support automatic squaring. Even inexpensive Mach3 with $5 parallel port break out board does. Do read my earlier comment because based on your comment I don’t think you understand how automatic squaring of the gantry procedure is executed by the controller.
Squaring of the gantry on toy CNC machines is not an issue.
But for large production machines it is essential. If you think otherwise then I am guessing your experience is limited to toys.
Edu-CNC, Vid 10/10.
Valuable information sir wiring diagram PDF send one video sir
Hi, the PDF of the wiring diagram it is in the website article linked in the description.
Hello sir. I m developing mini cnc machine for that i have bought stepper motor with encoder(easy-servo) now my question is that, that is it possible to wiring encoder with this ddcsv2.1?
Hi, as far as I know the DDCS does not have the ability to read back from "in position output" port of a stepper driver, so the closed loop is then only between the motor and the stepper driver, not between motor and DDCS. You should however be able to connect the alarm output of the stepper driver for example to the E-stop in port of the DDCS. Then at least the DDCS will go into E-stop mode when the motor can no longer follow the given commands. I also bought a closed loop stepper motor and driver for the 4th axis but have not tried it yet, however this is probably how I will hook it up. Personally I think just using the alarm and not the in-position feedback is fine for a CNC router but this might be different for other applications.
@@uptimefab7412 i m building cnc Engraving for coins die. And i want itto be precise. Closed loop was in my budget... I m very confused for controller. Whether to go for mach 3 4axis or this ddcs😓
I think both solutions can be precise and reliable. My setup with mach 3 had some issues which I think we're mostly related to the USB interface card, not to mach 3. But mostly I just don't like having a laptop to run the machine. Personal preference. Downside for this controller is you have to use USB stick to transfer programs and it has less features and flexibility than mach3, but it has everything I need. Note that there are now also a expert and plus version of the DDCS, both have ethernet. Indeed difficult decision, I hope you can make a choice by weighing pros and cons for your setup.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you sir... One more question... I m using stepper closed loop with dynamic brake motor for z axis. So can it be connected to ddcs and would the brake will work?
I am not sure, sorry. I have never needed this type of functionality. It might be available in one of their models, maybe their forum members can help with this.
where did you get that box?
From a local online retailer, search for Famatel 39145.
Bonjour quelle g code prend en charge le contrôleur digital expert v1.1 je fais mai dessin dans fusion 360
Hi, my french is a bit rusty, but I think you want to know which post processor. Some other people have asked this as well, the standard Mach3 post in fusion 360 works for me.
@@uptimefab7412 merci beaucoup pour votre réponse on va essayer merci
De rien
@@uptimefab7412 bonjour pour le réglage des drivers par rapport au moteur pas à pas on me dis qu'il faut connaître les micropas des moteurs et les ampère sur la notice des moteurs il parle des ampère mai pas des micropas si vous avec une réponse pour moi merci je regarde vos vidéo dommage que je ne parle pas anglais il son instructif
Hi, you can basically use any microstep setting on the steppers as long as it does not exceed the capability of the controller at the maximum speed you are running the router. The motor operates smoother with higher microstep settings, but the higher you go, the less difference you will notice with each increase. I am using 2000 pulses per revolution, which is 1/10 microstep, since a stepper has 200 pulses per revolution. How to calculate DDCS parameters for microstepping is covered in the PDF on my website in the written article.
Waar heb je de shielded kabel vandaan?
I bought the Liycy cables in a local parts store, but they can be obtained from many online stores. For example Reichelt ( for people living in Europe).
@@uptimefab7412 thanks
No problem, the part number is: Lapp 0034704. (PVC, shielded, 4x0.75mm^2) This is very flexible, which is great for both in your cabinet as well as for use in drag chains. I mistakenly ordered some other cable at a later date that is far less flexible, so make sure you get the right type. Visually you can recognize them by the color. (My cable is RAL 7032). The less flexible type is a darker grey.
Hi... Do you have some of Online Class for CNC? Or offer any consultant service?
I found a CNC I want in Aliexpress but they need to DIY everything.
And seller simply state that he don't want to deal with a Newbie. Therefore, if I don't know what I'm doing, he said it's best not to buy.
I try to Learn, but there just too much info without any kind of structure... and my own country, don't offer any class on CNC.
Most CNC operator here, often went to nearby country to study, once they back, they either work for a Construction Company or Printing House...
So I am totally lost.
Thank you. Hopefully you willing to reach out and help.
Hi Austin, if I understand your question correctly, you are primarily looking to get education for programming the CNC. If so, I would recommend watching channels like Tom Stikkelman or NYC CNC. If you are looking for more information on electronics and mechanics of CNC builds, there is also information available, but I have to admit, it is hard to find a single source with all basic information, so it will take some time to find what you need. I unfortunately do not offer any consultancy service, since I already don't have enough time as it is. The only advice I can give you is spend time gathering information from the various sources and read manuals, sorry I am not aware of any shortcuts. I hope you can spend the time because it is a very rewarding hobby when you get things to work.
Hi! Please tell me the dimensions of the box.
Hi, 500x400x175mm - Famatel 39145.
If you have the space, a bit larger is better, now it only just fits.
@@uptimefab7412 thank you very much! Good luck!
Nice work 👍👍
Great video. This is the boss. I was about to say, I need to give you soldering lessons. The insulation should not know you were there. They all looked good, just not pretty. I kinda like how you drilled all the case holes after you mounted all the expensive components in the case will were drilling into. That would freak me.
Warum gibt es den Beitrag nicht in deutscher Sprache?
Because my German is a bit rusty. Even worse than my English:)
Спасибо!
I dont know how its in your country but N (neutral) cant be switch on/off its must be stay --- what i mean by it --- just reroute the blue wire and hook it up for straight - dont use the contact in that rele/contactor. you can switch(on/off) only L(life) nothing else ...
Hi, thanks for the tip. I am not sure about this for my country and I don't have an electrical background, but this was my reasoning: in my research I found a diagram from a supplier where both N and L were switched (DamenCNC). Also, both the contactor and mains disconnect have marked "N" terminals, which are also marked as such in the manuals. I have no way of knowing which is actually line, since I can rotate the wall plug. Therefore, I think there is no harm in switching both, as this is the equivalent to pulling out the mains wall plug. If someone can indicate what the standard is in the Netherlands and why only one of the leads can be switched that would be much appreciated. Note that the yellow/green ground wire is bypassing the switch. Thanks again for your feedback and sorry I do not have a definitive answer at the moment about the current standard.
@@uptimefab7412 What i've googled we're using wall plug type E also same wall socket --- you should have same plug in your machine - because you must have L(life) in socket againts your left hand(heart) N must be on right side and Ground on the PIN(yellow/green wire). so you'll always have L on the right side also you cant use plug with 2 pins thats how its should be and i hope in every europe country. Mainly its for safety reasons and how the breakers and RCD (those you should have in your electrical cabinet in your house/apartment)works properly ... its hard to explain in english but this is how I wiring our stuffs
@@Mil1d4_66 Hi, where I live we use the F type plug (or C if ungrounded). The F plug is reversible, meaning you can rotate the plug 180 degrees and it will fit fine. You can't see which side is L or N when looking at the plug. With AC circuits it doesn't really matter how it is wired and typically switches for appliances switch only one of the wires. However, to me it seems safer for a CNC to completely disconnect both wires, especially since I can't predict which one is L.
How make gcode?
Hi I am making Gcode with Fusion360 and Mach3 post processor, but there are many other options for a simple 3 or 4 axis router.
Bagaimana membuat g code
Warning headphone users
The VFD should never go in the same cabinet as your other electronics
Thanks for your comment. A number of other people have mentioned this. There is a lot of conflicting information about this topic. I know hobbyists do it and I have also seen commercially available equipment with the VFD inside the same cabinet as other electronics. There is of course the risk of EMI and heat dissipation. When these are mitigated it should be possible. However, I have no reliable way to measure EMI but heat dissipation is fine in my case. So that leaves us with that it is not possible as an amateur/hobbyist to determine if there will be issues with EMI. I would therefore not recommend other people to do this, but this is what I am doing and so far it worked. If you have any links to where people can find information on EMI guidelines for VFDs it would be greatly appreciated. Best, Robin
@uptimefab7412 you can buy EMF readers. Generally, people do YT to help and don't intentionally want to mislead people, but the problem with the Internet is that people can come across as though they know what they are talking about. It's difficult to find genuine experts. Even suppliers' kits, especially from China, are poorly put together. Kits with individual PSUs for each stepper should be avoided. It is better to have 1 larger PSU and get one with built-in RFI suppression. Ideally, you want to keep your high and low voltage circuits away from each other as much as possible.
I hope that I did not come across as a professional. Indeed there is a lot of information by non-experts and I may have just added some more myself. I think it is good to keep in mind that all of this project is hobby level stuff. This includes the electronics but also the router itself. Having said this, I have searched extensively for wiring practices and EMI design rules. There seem to be a lot of things that work and on the other hand there are many experts that say how things should be done (mostly without source) referring to how it is done in industrial equipment. Since I am not able to find the answers online I went with what was the most practical solution and made it work with what I have. This is also my way of working in a hobby project, not recommend to others. I have found many articles saying that the VFD can or should be put in a separate enclosure in case of issues (no references to standards prescribing this requirement). But also a lot of people just placing the VFD in the same enclosure. I just took the practical approach to place it in the same enclosure if I don't experience issues, which I don't. Also not with my lathe, where the VFD is also in the same cabinet. Thanks for the tip on the EMF meter. Looks like great equipment for troubleshooting. Many videos about paranormal stuff, so I would also have to find my way to good information there. Sorry for the long-winded answer. This actually means I don't have a good answer :).
@@uptimefab7412 Yes, a lot of Chinese CNC machines are very poorly built with the VFD in the case.
I don’t want my fuse to blow until there is a crater where my shop was.