There’s always room for another split keyboard 😁 I really like the layout of this build and will probably build it myself, or use it as inspiration for a custom build (trackpoint built-in is my endgame goal).
I also would like to have trackpoint/joystick, but right now I have redox keyboard in the making. I slightly changed it. Redox already has 70. Do you know if it is possible to add trackpoint to it? I use Pro Micro ATmeaa32U4 clone.
Nice to see you get more into custom boards. I remember seeing your Ghost S1 video years ago. Really great progression. Video production/quality is A+ as usual
@@EIGAtech You can mix in some more technical videos like "How to make a trackball device from scratch" to have more time for trying the new builds and to wear some pressure off of yourself. We don't want you to be stressed ybout yt :)
EDSF is always superior to WASD. Always has been (1994). Even the great Gabe Newell of Valve has touted countlessly in interviews that he too rebinds everything to EDSF.
Or you can make a dedicated gaming layer that shifts whole left side of the QWERTY to the right, so you can achieve the comfort of EDSF without rebinding at all and get along with what the video game industry prefers as default. Another advantage is that you can use your pinky row for keys such as Tab, Shift, Ctrl with zero hand movement now. Therefore your thumb should be less busy comparing to the layout shown in the video. I saw that approach has been made with Wellum QMK layout.
@@Ege_EHonestly yea. If you were going to make a gaming layer anyway, why not just go with the standard movement, makes it easier in the long run. I did just this with my Ferris Sweep where DXCV got changed to WASD in my gaming layer.
@@Ege_E I personally prefer rebinding in-game, because if the game has any kind of in-game chat or I want to switch quickly to doing something else on my computer, I don't want to have to think about switching in and out of a gaming layer. It's probably not that big of a hassle and would just take some getting used to, but rebinding all the controls isn't ever that much of a pain in the ass to me so I don't mind.
All it's missing is few tiny multimedia/programmable keys and a small metal trackball in the upper right corner (the kind that was on mobile phones) that could be operated with a ring or index finger of the right hand without its palm leaving the desk.
Really cool video. I'm just learning about split mechanical keyboards myself and it's awesome to see what the community can build. I'm going with something wired and with more keys for my first split - likely an Iris from keebio. But projects like this get me excited about potential future projects if I end up sticking with the new format and layout and decide to get more involved in the build process in the future.
I know you've gotten this question several times, and in fact I feel like I may have been one of them (though I can't find it), but that dongle seems like a game changer for any nRF52840-based KB. Do you have any more information about how that would be implemented on a different board, ie the corne? Maybe contact with GEIST for some clarification? Idk looking it up does not give enough info on this, and I feel it's sorely needed.
great build with awesome attention to details and helpful advices! liked and subscribed! could you please describe how do you use the dongle and why it helps to use the battery more efficiently?
Can you provide more resources on how to do the dongle setup? Ive basically been using my zmk boards with the master side always plugged in because windows bluetooth is terrible. This is an absolute game changer
the documentation for multi peripheral support is not ready yet, but if you take a look at the two config repos linked in the description of this video, and compare them, you should be able to get an idea of what needs to be added to a shield, in order to enable the feature.
@voidkb awesome, thank you! Ive had 0 issues with bluetooth on linux and mac but windows is actually so bad. Unfortunately i have to work in a windows house and this seems like the perfect solution. In an ideal world, microsoft would just fix their shit...
Great video! I already ordered all the parts for it so I can build one of my own! Going to be the first keyboard I build so it will be a journey for sure but the low profile nature of it is just too good! :) Just a question; I see others mentioning that you had a comment about the dongle, I can’t seem to find it though, any info you could give on it? A longer battery life and being able to navigate the BIOS seems attractive! :)
There is gh link in video description. It should contain more details. Though I haven´t tried it yet myself. Details from author would be nice of course. :)
New subscriber... loving the videos so far. For the gaming layer, you should move the movement keys down. It is much easier to reach up than it is down. I'd try using DXCV as your forward, left, down, right keys.
Yeah DXCV is something I should try. I may just make a new gaming layer that has WASD remapped to DXCV (and similar for other keys), simply because some games don't play nice with remapping keys.
I like the screw tray real cool design and amazing work this keyboard is on my list just don't have the time right now, for sure will be building one in the future.
This came out surprisingly well in PLA. Not as pretty obviously, but everything fit together without any modification. Really like the layout, currently my daily driver.
Hi Artichoke and EIGA! I'm extremely new in keyboards and don't really know anything about soldering, but I'm wondering, could you give me some advice as to where to start with this? Do you know if there are people who sell the PCB already soldered? I own a 3D-printed, and seeing your comment about PLA is pretty nice, since that's what I use. Thank you for your time.
I think those are Chicago Steno caps, not DES (listed on the same GH page, just a different profile)--am I wrong? If you do another LP board in the future, I'd be curious to hear what you thought of Asymplex's pocelain Chicago Steno caps, vs. the 3D printed ones. I also wonder if the switches on a LP might feel nicer if they were lubed. You could always try something like Lowprokb's Sunset Tactile Choc switches for something that comes prelubed. Just starting to try to get into the sub-40% keyboards myself. I'm working on learning the Miryoku layout with Colemak-DH, which is a big learning curve. Enjoyed the video--keep it up. 😊
Thanks! They are indeed Chicago Steno keycaps. We printed DES ones as well for my MX switches keyboards and I got stuck on that naming. Some great suggestions there by the way, I am probably getting some Sunsets soon and going to give them a shot.
Love the video! I've been enjoying my osprette, and sweep, and considering one of these. Any chance you could share some more information about the dongle and how one can use those? I wasn't able to find any information. EDIT: found the comment with your response.
Huge props on the aesthetics of your videos! It might "just" look like a clean desk, but I'm guessing it takes quite a bit of effort to get these videos looking as good as they do! Also, funny to hear you talk about touch typing, it gets abundantly clear who touch types and who doesn't when they try my keyboard at work, which is a split curved. How do you like the keycaps, are they worth the effort?
Thank you! It's definitely messier in real life and a lot of setup work, but it gets a bit easier with each new video as I figure out my process. The DES / Chicago Steno keycaps are great, I really like them for both MX and Choc switches and I would for sure use them in future builds. Depending on where you print them and in what material, they can end up being cheaper than something like an MT3 profile set, or rarer profiles like KAT.
For a gaming layer, I would recommend moving the keys in your layout to align with your keybinds in game, rather than changing your keybinds to align with your existing layout. By that I mean, instead of changing your game keybinds to be ESDF, change the layer to have WASD where the ESDF keys are in the default layer. Then you change to the gaming layer and as far as the game knows, you are using WASD, but from your perspective, you're using the more comfortable keys
Lego keyboard is the perfect sound descriptor. lol its nearly identical to the sound effect that plays when you're constructing something in a Lego game
If you had to learn to type all over again, from scratch, would you learn on a standard keyboard first or would you you jump right in to a split minimalist keyboard like this? Have you ever looked at alternative layouts to the standard qwerty layout? would you learn an alternative as a beginner? Thanks for the excellent keyboard content.
I absolutely love your aesthetics, same with the charybdis video. Also have a totem PCB laying around here in addition to the Charybdis. Two questions, what do you create your keymap visualization with? And is there an STL file for that screw tray? I would recommend other switches personally, I found the pinks way too light. But you can improve the Choc V1 with lubing and floss between the „stem“ and the top housing.
Thank you! The keymap graphics are custom made designs in Figma. Tray thing: www.printables.com/model/171383-less-thin-hexagon-parts-tray Which switches would you recommend? Someone on the reddit thread mentioned the Sunsets but they don't sound like much of an improvement to me.
@@EIGAtech thanks so much :) sunsets actually are the go to tactile switch for Choc, also what I plan to use on my Totem. Alternatively, I would like to try some robins, I know more as soon I got a switch tester.
hey Eiga, I'm looking to build a totem soon, and wanted to heard more about your JLCpcb experience. specifically, you mentioned the tolerances for the Chary in MJF weren't quite right, but you didn't test the tolerance of the MJF totem in this video. you said the chary might not've fit because of the FDM design, and I'm wondering if that held true for the resin-native totem. I want to make a non-resin totem for surface quality and finish reasons, and you're the only one I've seen have an MJF print made.
The MJF prints for the TOTEM had no issues with tolerances. Only downside of the MJF prints are that the TOTEM logos come out a bit ugly, but perhaps you could print a logo-less version for a cleaner look. Still, I think resin is the way to go for the TOTEM.
Hi my friend, i'm tryng to do a dongle to a corne, i tried to copy and adapt your firmware, but have a lot of issues, do you have any suggestion for me?
i like this one but i struggled to find a battery of similar size in my are (SEA) so I might go for a slightly different build. Still it looks really nice and simple.
Awesome video, watched it over and over xD. This might be a silly question but is there any sort of battery power safe mode? Like does it go to sleep or do you have to turn it off every time you finish using it? I have already got mine but i feel like it’s quite annoying having to turn it off every time I’m done with it, the on and off switch being tiny doesn’t help either. Thanks!
Thank you! There is a deep sleep feature in ZMK. I've played with it when I was still using my Corne wireless, it was mildly annoying as it took a second or so to wake up after pressing a key, but having displays made that more bearable since I could see it waking up. I don't use it on the TOTEM as battery life is absolutely insane. In fact, there's a new update that should make the battery life even MORE insane but I haven't gotten around to testing it.
@@EIGAtech oooo that sounds interesting! I’ve been trying to leave it on but I couldn’t figure how to check the battery level reliably, it would show sometimes on Linux. Do you tend to just leave it on or turn it off? I’ll definitely look into the features and update, thanks for the heads up!
In this keyboard build, eventhough the two sides are essentially identical to each other, what is the need for printing out similar PCB again in a mirrored configuration? Can I just use a replica of the once side pcb for building the enitire keyboard?
Hey, I finally built a keyboard. Well sort of... How do you pair the dongle with peripherals? I am going crazy because of it. Also was it also so hard for you to solder reset button and battery pads on XIAO SEED to the PCB?
The one you see the most in the video is regular black resin, but we've also printed "imagine black". Personally I'd just go with the regular black one, which is more of a dark grey.
hi, first of all amazing video. where to buy the pcb?is this something can be build by ourselves. it would be really helpful. do you have a video on how to build it ?
What software are you using to show/animate the key presses and the different layers? I understand you use ZMK - is there any easy solution to customize, like oryx for zsa for example you know of?
Hey! The animation is custom made. For customization I’ve used keymap-editor by Nick Coutsos, you need to link your own github repo to it but it works very well. github.com/nickcoutsos/keymap-editor
y dont you try the klor with gateron low profile switches, they come with factory lube and u have a few options, also infinetly better keycap support(if u go with the ks-33)
Hey! There is a link in the github repo to the keycap STLs we used. For the Corne we printed DES_r2 and DES_r3 (two times the amount r3 of these as they are also used for row 1). Don't forget about DES_thumb_corne_high for the thumb buttons and maybe print some homing keys as well, there's a few options to choose from.
Hi! I've got two questions, first, is there a way to build a Seeeduino Xiao BLE charybdis? Does it have enough pins? Also, is there a way to add a trackpoint to it?
the nfc pads would have to be used, but a 5 column charybdis nano should be doable. at least in theory. a skeletyl/tbk mini (5/6 col without a trackball) would work with xiaos for sure.
@@thevoidkb awesome! I can’t use trackballs on my thumb because of a RSI, I would love to be able to use xiaos and trackpoint. I will probably try a handwired of somekind next month, anyway you could help me out which pins I could use for the trackpoint?
Hmm, I have not tried it but I think it should work. The problem would be that they will eventually rub off I would imagine. Maybe search for resin printing post processing techniques?
@@EIGAtech Might wanted to try it out very until I got my hand on resin. Maybe when they arrive. I will post an update. I'am very excited because this is my first split keyboard. Your video really helps me to decide which one to focus. Totem keyboard all the way!
Depends on the game. If you need SHIFT you could remap it to the extra key instead of ESC and put that somewhere else. Or just remap whatever SHIFT is assigned to in the game (e.g. running) to something like Z instead.
So.. if I use the XIAO nRF5284 with the dongle (only wifi) would be possible to use pins RX and TX (D6 and D7) to add more switches? Amazing video, by tha way. Helped me a lot!
While looking around for a Seeed Xiao nrf52840 i came across something called an "IO expander for Xiao". Maybe this works? Not sure if it's work for all models and if that will actually give you pins to hook up switches. I'm still a n00b with hardware stuff.
@@AlphaSphere Hi! This would be interesting. I'm kinda newbie too but was able to use the tx/rx pins as switches and also the 3 IMU pins and the 2 NFE antenna pins. =)
Not on the TOTEM but other ergo split keyboards that support displays can show the current layer number or name. It's a nice to have but by no means something I can't live without.
I just finished sourcing all parts to make the keyboard, will post a link for the end result when it's done. this design has both staggered column and angled column, love it. I sort of wish there was one exra key on the 5th column, but who knows, maybe I can manage to cram my 4-layer activation keys to the thumb cluster :D
Nice! Please do. I am with you on that extra key on the 5th column, but I got used to it. I'm still using the TOTEM daily. Which switches did you go with?
yes, there are multiple versions that share the same footprint, but with different microcontrollers. for wireless builds you need the xiao nrf52840, while for wired builds the xiao rp2040
@@thevoidkb i figured it out in the end but i also came across a guid mentioning that 2 nrf52840 sense are needed. A non sense version should work too right? I don't see why the extra sense features are needed.
@@AlphaSphere yes, that would be correct. the basic nrf52840 xiao is what we used too. the entire BOM is listed somewhere in the totem github repo, the link is in the description of this video.
I would just charge both halves every now and then, like once a month or so. Before with the Charybdis I would just charge the left half once a week. Having a display like I do on my Corne wireless sure is nice though...
@@EIGAtech Thanks for the answer and your videos. Can you please clear me how you solved the wobble of the MJF keycaps, as the stem hole is too lose? Do you have any wobble by Black Resin print?
@@cl1rs No issues at all with tolerances, but we might've just been lucky. If anything, they were very tight fitting on my Oil Kings. Only issue we've had was interference with VOID's Cherry MX Black Hyperglide switches. We printed the files from this fork, which has tol 0 for the stems: github.com/sporkus/PseudoMakeMeKeyCapProfiles
@@EIGAtech Awesome! Then it is exactly what I am looking for. Are there any online resources on how to make it work? I want to build a Chocifi that can be used for gaming. But I am not sure what software etc. to use, to make it work.
There’s always room for another split keyboard 😁
I really like the layout of this build and will probably build it myself, or use it as inspiration for a custom build (trackpoint built-in is my endgame goal).
I also would like to have trackpoint/joystick, but right now I have redox keyboard in the making. I slightly changed it. Redox already has 70. Do you know if it is possible to add trackpoint to it? I use Pro Micro ATmeaa32U4 clone.
Nice to see you get more into custom boards. I remember seeing your Ghost S1 video years ago. Really great progression. Video production/quality is A+ as usual
Thanks for sticking around! What keyboard are you using now as your daily?
Running the Maker Alexa with Haimu Heartbeat Linears as my daily now, but tempted to follow you and do a wireless Corne build@@EIGAtech
Could the dongle be incorporated into the corne build? Is there information on how to do it out there?
I'm interested in implementing a dongle setup, but can't find any information about it online. How were you able to get that working?
Also interested in this and am commenting so that I get pinged :D
did you find any info on this?
Interested in this as well.
Also x2
Same here. Also curious about the latency.
These keyboard videos are awesome! I love the idea of shining a light at some of the less known projects. Keep it up!
It's a format that I really enjoy doing. The downside of it is having to basically re-learn how to type properly with each new keyboard.
@@EIGAtech You can mix in some more technical videos like "How to make a trackball device from scratch" to have more time for trying the new builds and to wear some pressure off of yourself. We don't want you to be stressed ybout yt :)
@@nulla3655 Funny you should mention trackball content 👀. But thanks, haha, appreciate the thoughts.
EDSF is always superior to WASD. Always has been (1994). Even the great Gabe Newell of Valve has touted countlessly in interviews that he too rebinds everything to EDSF.
Or you can make a dedicated gaming layer that shifts whole left side of the QWERTY to the right, so you can achieve the comfort of EDSF without rebinding at all and get along with what the video game industry prefers as default. Another advantage is that you can use your pinky row for keys such as Tab, Shift, Ctrl with zero hand movement now. Therefore your thumb should be less busy comparing to the layout shown in the video. I saw that approach has been made with Wellum QMK layout.
The PC Master Race uses ESDF.
@@Ege_EHonestly yea. If you were going to make a gaming layer anyway, why not just go with the standard movement, makes it easier in the long run. I did just this with my Ferris Sweep where DXCV got changed to WASD in my gaming layer.
@@Ege_E I personally prefer rebinding in-game, because if the game has any kind of in-game chat or I want to switch quickly to doing something else on my computer, I don't want to have to think about switching in and out of a gaming layer. It's probably not that big of a hassle and would just take some getting used to, but rebinding all the controls isn't ever that much of a pain in the ass to me so I don't mind.
I'd really be interested in a 60-ish % layout made in a manner like this - something like a Lily58 or a Sofle.
All it's missing is few tiny multimedia/programmable keys and a small metal trackball in the upper right corner (the kind that was on mobile phones) that could be operated with a ring or index finger of the right hand without its palm leaving the desk.
Really cool video. I'm just learning about split mechanical keyboards myself and it's awesome to see what the community can build. I'm going with something wired and with more keys for my first split - likely an Iris from keebio. But projects like this get me excited about potential future projects if I end up sticking with the new format and layout and decide to get more involved in the build process in the future.
I was just thinking about making Totem for myself! And then I saw you post new video and it's about Totem! Awesome!
awesome video, would love a tutorial on the dongle setup tho
I know you've gotten this question several times, and in fact I feel like I may have been one of them (though I can't find it), but that dongle seems like a game changer for any nRF52840-based KB. Do you have any more information about how that would be implemented on a different board, ie the corne? Maybe contact with GEIST for some clarification? Idk looking it up does not give enough info on this, and I feel it's sorely needed.
i love your enthusiasm and the camerawork is better than alot of people with way more subscribers.
great build with awesome attention to details and helpful advices!
liked and subscribed!
could you please describe how do you use the dongle and why it helps to use the battery more efficiently?
Consider making the next split with xiao seed in mind. I think it deserves more variety split keyboard such as touchpad integration.
Can you provide more resources on how to do the dongle setup? Ive basically been using my zmk boards with the master side always plugged in because windows bluetooth is terrible. This is an absolute game changer
the documentation for multi peripheral support is not ready yet, but if you take a look at the two config repos linked in the description of this video, and compare them, you should be able to get an idea of what needs to be added to a shield, in order to enable the feature.
@voidkb awesome, thank you!
Ive had 0 issues with bluetooth on linux and mac but windows is actually so bad. Unfortunately i have to work in a windows house and this seems like the perfect solution.
In an ideal world, microsoft would just fix their shit...
Would love to get more info on that dongle@@thevoidkb @EIGAtech
Would it be possible to adapt the dongle to convert a wired-only keyboard into a bluetooth keyboard??
8:05 If you configure your gaming layer with the letters shifted one place to the right you won't have to configure the keymapping of your games
Love cool videos like this. Innovation always comes from the ppl. Free the patents!!
Can’t wait until the ultimate input device is created!!!
Yes! You should definitely make your own keyboard design!
Great video! I already ordered all the parts for it so I can build one of my own! Going to be the first keyboard I build so it will be a journey for sure but the low profile nature of it is just too good! :) Just a question; I see others mentioning that you had a comment about the dongle, I can’t seem to find it though, any info you could give on it? A longer battery life and being able to navigate the BIOS seems attractive! :)
There is gh link in video description. It should contain more details. Though I haven´t tried it yet myself. Details from author would be nice of course. :)
New subscriber... loving the videos so far.
For the gaming layer, you should move the movement keys down. It is much easier to reach up than it is down. I'd try using DXCV as your forward, left, down, right keys.
Yeah DXCV is something I should try. I may just make a new gaming layer that has WASD remapped to DXCV (and similar for other keys), simply because some games don't play nice with remapping keys.
I like the screw tray real cool design and amazing work this keyboard is on my list just don't have the time right now, for sure will be building one in the future.
There is always room for another ergo split keyboard!
This came out surprisingly well in PLA. Not as pretty obviously, but everything fit together without any modification. Really like the layout, currently my daily driver.
Nice! What switches are you using?
I went with the pinks as well. Although I definitely miss my gateron yellows, they're nicer than I would have expected from low profile switches.
@@ArtichokeLasso Interesting, for me the switch was pretty shocking. I used Gateron yellows in the past (lubed) and I found them to be pretty smooth.
Hi Artichoke and EIGA! I'm extremely new in keyboards and don't really know anything about soldering, but I'm wondering, could you give me some advice as to where to start with this? Do you know if there are people who sell the PCB already soldered? I own a 3D-printed, and seeing your comment about PLA is pretty nice, since that's what I use. Thank you for your time.
I think those are Chicago Steno caps, not DES (listed on the same GH page, just a different profile)--am I wrong? If you do another LP board in the future, I'd be curious to hear what you thought of Asymplex's pocelain Chicago Steno caps, vs. the 3D printed ones. I also wonder if the switches on a LP might feel nicer if they were lubed. You could always try something like Lowprokb's Sunset Tactile Choc switches for something that comes prelubed. Just starting to try to get into the sub-40% keyboards myself. I'm working on learning the Miryoku layout with Colemak-DH, which is a big learning curve. Enjoyed the video--keep it up. 😊
Thanks!
They are indeed Chicago Steno keycaps. We printed DES ones as well for my MX switches keyboards and I got stuck on that naming.
Some great suggestions there by the way, I am probably getting some Sunsets soon and going to give them a shot.
underrated channel, great vids and super cool ideas. Making your own design would definitely be very cool.
Love the video! I've been enjoying my osprette, and sweep, and considering one of these. Any chance you could share some more information about the dongle and how one can use those? I wasn't able to find any information.
EDIT: found the comment with your response.
Thanks! I think you'd like the TOTEM. The Dongle too for the battery life, it makes the keyboard last seemingly forever.
Hi, really interested on building one for myself, could you please do a tutorial on how to configure the dongle?
Huge props on the aesthetics of your videos! It might "just" look like a clean desk, but I'm guessing it takes quite a bit of effort to get these videos looking as good as they do!
Also, funny to hear you talk about touch typing, it gets abundantly clear who touch types and who doesn't when they try my keyboard at work, which is a split curved.
How do you like the keycaps, are they worth the effort?
Thank you! It's definitely messier in real life and a lot of setup work, but it gets a bit easier with each new video as I figure out my process.
The DES / Chicago Steno keycaps are great, I really like them for both MX and Choc switches and I would for sure use them in future builds. Depending on where you print them and in what material, they can end up being cheaper than something like an MT3 profile set, or rarer profiles like KAT.
Nice. I like your layers. Except personally I would add pgup/pgdn, probably above the left/right keys, and home/end below them.
Thanks! Well, that's the beauty of an customizable / open-source firmware!
For a gaming layer, I would recommend moving the keys in your layout to align with your keybinds in game, rather than changing your keybinds to align with your existing layout. By that I mean, instead of changing your game keybinds to be ESDF, change the layer to have WASD where the ESDF keys are in the default layer. Then you change to the gaming layer and as far as the game knows, you are using WASD, but from your perspective, you're using the more comfortable keys
Hey! Yup, that's exactly how I have it set up now, much less of a hassle not having to deal with keymap settings in games.
Hi, I love the key caps you reckon this video.
Would you mind sharing the profile and materials you use for your Corne build?
Lego keyboard is the perfect sound descriptor. lol its nearly identical to the sound effect that plays when you're constructing something in a Lego game
best part is seeing the seeed xiao instead of those bigger units. A+
If you had to learn to type all over again, from scratch, would you learn on a standard keyboard first or would you you jump right in to a split minimalist keyboard like this? Have you ever looked at alternative layouts to the standard qwerty layout? would you learn an alternative as a beginner? Thanks for the excellent keyboard content.
How did you configure the Seeed XIAO as a dongle?
For the gaming layer, why not shift all the keys on the left half to the right by one? This way you don't have to reconfigure all the games
I absolutely love your aesthetics, same with the charybdis video. Also have a totem PCB laying around here in addition to the Charybdis.
Two questions, what do you create your keymap visualization with? And is there an STL file for that screw tray?
I would recommend other switches personally, I found the pinks way too light. But you can improve the Choc V1 with lubing and floss between the „stem“ and the top housing.
Thank you!
The keymap graphics are custom made designs in Figma.
Tray thing: www.printables.com/model/171383-less-thin-hexagon-parts-tray
Which switches would you recommend? Someone on the reddit thread mentioned the Sunsets but they don't sound like much of an improvement to me.
@@EIGAtech thanks so much :)
sunsets actually are the go to tactile switch for Choc, also what I plan to use on my Totem. Alternatively, I would like to try some robins, I know more as soon I got a switch tester.
@@EIGAtech I do got a few switches now, I would absolutely either go for sunsets, or maybe Jades if clickys fit your type
@@exen900 I'm thinking of getting some sunsets, just so I can see how much better than the pinks they are.
@@EIGAtech absolutely do. I also got some with a spring swap to 10g more which makes them even better
Do you please have any notes after longer term use? Maybe home row modifiers, or lack of number row or something else? Or is everything "perfect"?:)
hey Eiga, I'm looking to build a totem soon, and wanted to heard more about your JLCpcb experience. specifically, you mentioned the tolerances for the Chary in MJF weren't quite right, but you didn't test the tolerance of the MJF totem in this video. you said the chary might not've fit because of the FDM design, and I'm wondering if that held true for the resin-native totem. I want to make a non-resin totem for surface quality and finish reasons, and you're the only one I've seen have an MJF print made.
The MJF prints for the TOTEM had no issues with tolerances. Only downside of the MJF prints are that the TOTEM logos come out a bit ugly, but perhaps you could print a logo-less version for a cleaner look. Still, I think resin is the way to go for the TOTEM.
Nice build! As for the symbols layer, why not have them on the home row instead?
I never really put much thought into the symbols layer, but that's a good idea.
Hi my friend, i'm tryng to do a dongle to a corne, i tried to copy and adapt your firmware, but have a lot of issues, do you have any suggestion for me?
i like this one but i struggled to find a battery of similar size in my are (SEA) so I might go for a slightly different build. Still it looks really nice and simple.
your videos are always so good. Excellent production and really interesting. The audio is a bit echoey tho.
Thank you! Audio is indeed something I'm working on getting better at with each new video.
how do you get the dongle to work? which firmware did you flash the xiao og the dongle with?
is threre any tutorial for the dongle? to pair it with totem
Awesome video, watched it over and over xD. This might be a silly question but is there any sort of battery power safe mode? Like does it go to sleep or do you have to turn it off every time you finish using it? I have already got mine but i feel like it’s quite annoying having to turn it off every time I’m done with it, the on and off switch being tiny doesn’t help either. Thanks!
Thank you! There is a deep sleep feature in ZMK. I've played with it when I was still using my Corne wireless, it was mildly annoying as it took a second or so to wake up after pressing a key, but having displays made that more bearable since I could see it waking up.
I don't use it on the TOTEM as battery life is absolutely insane. In fact, there's a new update that should make the battery life even MORE insane but I haven't gotten around to testing it.
@@EIGAtech oooo that sounds interesting! I’ve been trying to leave it on but I couldn’t figure how to check the battery level reliably, it would show sometimes on Linux. Do you tend to just leave it on or turn it off?
I’ll definitely look into the features and update, thanks for the heads up!
In this keyboard build, eventhough the two sides are essentially identical to each other, what is the need for printing out similar PCB again in a mirrored configuration? Can I just use a replica of the once side pcb for building the enitire keyboard?
As always, very high quality video. BTW, what monitor is that?
Thank you! It's the LG 27GP950.
@@EIGAtech 👌
I love this build, can you provide links to the parts please? Is it possible to fit a bigger battery in the case?
If you don't like the sound and scratchy feel, then time for another project: lube, tape mod, and O-rings!
Love your videos. What kind of software did you use to create the visualization of keymaps?
Thanks a lot! It's a custom made animation, the individual frames are designed in Figma.
Great video style! Keep it up :)
wow lego really is the perfect descriptor
These keyboards look great! Thanks for sharing =D
Hey, I finally built a keyboard. Well sort of... How do you pair the dongle with peripherals? I am going crazy because of it. Also was it also so hard for you to solder reset button and battery pads on XIAO SEED to the PCB?
content is insane as usual LOVE IT
nice build! what are the materials used for printing the case (from jlc3dp)? is it just the default one (6060 resin) or the imagine black @EIGA
The one you see the most in the video is regular black resin, but we've also printed "imagine black". Personally I'd just go with the regular black one, which is more of a dark grey.
hi, first of all amazing video. where to buy the pcb?is this something can be build by ourselves. it would be really helpful. do you have a video on how to build it ?
What software are you using to show/animate the key presses and the different layers?
I understand you use ZMK - is there any easy solution to customize, like oryx for zsa for example you know of?
Hey! The animation is custom made.
For customization I’ve used keymap-editor by Nick Coutsos, you need to link your own github repo to it but it works very well.
github.com/nickcoutsos/keymap-editor
13:56 could you leave instructions on how to properly paint the logo here please?
I used a fine brush and filled it in with white acrylic paint, then I cleaned the excess off with a soft cloth and a touch of isopropyl alcohol.
y dont you try the klor with gateron low profile switches, they come with factory lube and u have a few options, also infinetly better keycap support(if u go with the ks-33)
"No way around it" doesnt it run QMK? cant you just add a gaming layer with wasd set in the positions of esdf?
So, are you selling the Charybdis?
hey, this prices as 11:33, where did you get those?😄
Hi Eiga, could you share which files you used for printing the keycaps for Corne?
Hey! There is a link in the github repo to the keycap STLs we used. For the Corne we printed DES_r2 and DES_r3 (two times the amount r3 of these as they are also used for row 1). Don't forget about DES_thumb_corne_high for the thumb buttons and maybe print some homing keys as well, there's a few options to choose from.
Do you know how many layers can you have with the xiao microcontroller?
did you include the billing taxes and the delivery in the total cost ?
I must try this now :) Another great video
Thanks!
I wish they had this with a higher profile
Why do you rebind WASD to ESDF in the game?
Wouldn't it be easier to remap WASD to ESDF in your keyboard game layer?
So you just have to do it once.
That’s exactly what I ended up doing, much easier indeed and don’t have to fight with games not wanting to rebind things the way I wanted to.
Hi! I've got two questions, first, is there a way to build a Seeeduino Xiao BLE charybdis? Does it have enough pins? Also, is there a way to add a trackpoint to it?
also, if you guys do a keyboard with a splay, pretty please, add trackpoint/ball suport hahaha
the nfc pads would have to be used, but a 5 column charybdis nano should be doable. at least in theory. a skeletyl/tbk mini (5/6 col without a trackball) would work with xiaos for sure.
@@thevoidkb awesome! I can’t use trackballs on my thumb because of a RSI, I would love to be able to use xiaos and trackpoint. I will probably try a handwired of somekind next month, anyway you could help me out which pins I could use for the trackpoint?
Also, awesome work with the Charybdis wireless.
Can I apply acrylic spray paints on the printed resin and keycaps to make look aesthetics? Or is it a bad idea?
Hmm, I have not tried it but I think it should work. The problem would be that they will eventually rub off I would imagine. Maybe search for resin printing post processing techniques?
@@EIGAtech Might wanted to try it out very until I got my hand on resin. Maybe when they arrive. I will post an update. I'am very excited because this is my first split keyboard. Your video really helps me to decide which one to focus. Totem keyboard all the way!
On your gaming layer, have you thought about the Shift key?
Depends on the game. If you need SHIFT you could remap it to the extra key instead of ESC and put that somewhere else. Or just remap whatever SHIFT is assigned to in the game (e.g. running) to something like Z instead.
So.. if I use the XIAO nRF5284 with the dongle (only wifi) would be possible to use pins RX and TX (D6 and D7) to add more switches? Amazing video, by tha way. Helped me a lot!
While looking around for a Seeed Xiao nrf52840 i came across something called an "IO expander for Xiao". Maybe this works? Not sure if it's work for all models and if that will actually give you pins to hook up switches. I'm still a n00b with hardware stuff.
@@AlphaSphere Hi! This would be interesting. I'm kinda newbie too but was able to use the tx/rx pins as switches and also the 3 IMU pins and the 2 NFE antenna pins. =)
Are there indicators to show which layer you're on?
Not on the TOTEM but other ergo split keyboards that support displays can show the current layer number or name. It's a nice to have but by no means something I can't live without.
I just finished sourcing all parts to make the keyboard, will post a link for the end result when it's done. this design has both staggered column and angled column, love it. I sort of wish there was one exra key on the 5th column, but who knows, maybe I can manage to cram my 4-layer activation keys to the thumb cluster :D
Nice! Please do. I am with you on that extra key on the 5th column, but I got used to it. I'm still using the TOTEM daily. Which switches did you go with?
@@EIGAtech I am glad to hear it is still your daily keyboard. I ordered the Choc Red Pro, not too strong and not too weak.
The dongle is such a good idea!
Are there different versions of the Seeed xiao? When I look around aliexpress i see what looks like different versions but i’m not too sure.
yes, there are multiple versions that share the same footprint, but with different microcontrollers. for wireless builds you need the xiao nrf52840, while for wired builds the xiao rp2040
@@thevoidkb i figured it out in the end but i also came across a guid mentioning that 2 nrf52840 sense are needed. A non sense version should work too right? I don't see why the extra sense features are needed.
@@AlphaSphere yes, that would be correct. the basic nrf52840 xiao is what we used too.
the entire BOM is listed somewhere in the totem github repo, the link is in the description of this video.
this is what i need, thanks for sharing ❤
8:09 Why don't you just move wasd to the place of esdf? You have infinitely customizable firmware and you decide to map the keys in-game instead?
That's exactly what I ended up doing in my latest keymap, and it is indeed the better way of doing it.
May I ask what kind of paint do you use to fill out the logo? Thanks a lot!
It’s basic acrylic paint filled in with a brush then the excess wiped off carefully (with isopropyl alcohol).
@@EIGAtech Thanks！I’ll give it a try.
How do you know when it's time to charge the batteries without a display?
I would just charge both halves every now and then, like once a month or so. Before with the Charybdis I would just charge the left half once a week. Having a display like I do on my Corne wireless sure is nice though...
I want to ask, what is the white thing at the end of the film?
It’s acrylic paint applied with a fine paintbrush. The excess is wiped off with isopropyl alcohol.
@@EIGAtech That's right, thank you very much
Does this not need soldering?
how do you monitor battery levels with the dongle setup?
I don’t really. Battery life is so good that I just charge each half once a month or so.
SDFC looks more comfortable to play with tbh
I didn't even consider that one but it actually doesn't feel bad at all. Hmmm... Could give it a try!
which material is used for the keycaps installed on the Corne and Charybdis?
The Corne is shown with greyish black resin printed keycaps, and the Charybdis with natural grey MJF keycaps.
@@EIGAtech Thanks for the answer and your videos. Can you please clear me how you solved the wobble of the MJF keycaps, as the stem hole is too lose? Do you have any wobble by Black Resin print?
@@cl1rs No issues at all with tolerances, but we might've just been lucky. If anything, they were very tight fitting on my Oil Kings. Only issue we've had was interference with VOID's Cherry MX Black Hyperglide switches.
We printed the files from this fork, which has tol 0 for the stems: github.com/sporkus/PseudoMakeMeKeyCapProfiles
@@EIGAtechthanks for the link, I'm going to compare the STL models, maybe there is something wrong with the parameters of opencad I used.
@@cl1rs Sure thing, let me know what you find.
homerow mods for me it's the best thing that I ever learned, I can't go back anymore
I didn't expect to like them as much as I do, that's for sure!
Will the dongle reduce latency as you don't use Bluetooth?
It does reduce latency!
@@EIGAtech Awesome! Then it is exactly what I am looking for. Are there any online resources on how to make it work? I want to build a Chocifi that can be used for gaming. But I am not sure what software etc. to use, to make it work.
Where did you get the holder thing that you put the screws in?
It's this one: www.printables.com/model/171383-less-thin-hexagon-parts-tray
TCO?
what is the software at 8:32 called?
It's a custom animation.
Nice vdo
how to reset the Wireless Memory
Good work. With love from Russia
What's the tool/website you are using to show you typing speed?
It's monkeytype.com!