This is the best way to do 7.3 cups and injectors I've ever tried.... Thanks Clint using the shop vac to get the diesel and oil out of the supply rails is absolutely ingenious.... I had never done injector cups before, I followed your instructions to the letter and the priming technique you teach works better than anything else I've ever tried to do with any other vehicle I've worked on. Thanks for your help and time making these videos.
This is one of the best video mechanics around here. He’s very specific, the images and diagrams are super helpful. He’s got it down to every single detail. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and experience
Love your videos. I totally appreciate that you talk to us like we are five. Because I sure as heck don't know what I am doing. And this drives the point home rather well.
Agreed I learn everything the hardest sometimes twice if not explained with a why and how come I ha e to know why and how stuff works and if I don't I will be a confused mess thank you
Thanks Clint, Im just about to embark on this project here in Aussie. I have worked on these types of systems with old CAT equipment . I did my apprenticeship back in 70's on International Harvester engines and agricultural equipment so have wielded the odd crescent or 2 . Thanks for your video's both yourself and Clay from Riffraff have helped me immensely to keep my 2005 Aussie spec 250 Super Duty on the road . Kindest regards from Australia.
Hi Clint, just thanking you for your video. Very informative and straight to the point. I've watch it numerous times as I did not want to make any mistakes. Of course I over did everything you said, especially the Shop Vac and Paper towels. But I must say, it paid off as my truck started on the 2nd crank. Thanks again!!!
Love all the backround videos! But again its great to see exactly what you are talking about, makes doing things much easier! Thanks for all the work you do to help us out!
So glad I found your videos, I’ve had a time with my 7.3 dump truck these last few months and now when having issues I come straight here. Thank you for posting quality, informative, and Correct videos to follow! Thank you sir!
Funny, informative, tutorial. Very good. Getting better every episode. I like the Ferris Bueller fairwell, lol. Anyway, I'd surely appreciate an episode covering your experience in whether or not to change cups, valve cover gaskets, harnesses, at what intervals or circumstances; and also stock vs 160/30 vs 180 etc and other drivable options, along w the results and consequences of each size and style. Im sure you've repaired plenty of mistakes I'd like to hear about before repeating them myself. Thanks for reading! (Late 99 7.3)
Hey Custom Works, Ive got a 97 F350, 7.3, OBS. w/175.000 miles on its clock currently. I bought it w/125,000 on it back in 2017. It's a beauty of an XLT/Crew-cab & runs fantastic ! I store it every Winter. Just lately, it started "starting hard" only when the ambient temps dropped. Over time this hard-start issue is getting worse. What I mean by that is, if the outside temp drops to even 70-degrees, it starts really hard. If its nice & toasty warm out, it'll start right up. So I'm replacing the "Original" Glow-plugs (The valve covers have NEVER been removed until now!) So, I figured while I'm there, I should replace all the Injector O-rings along w/new (German-made) OEM glow-plugs. Now, before I saw your video, I removed the driver side valve-cover & removed #4 injector because it stands to receive the most oil/fuel. But what I didn't realize was HOW FAST the oil/fuel would dump down into the #4 cylinder so quickly ! Holy-shit, that's FAST. I had my shop-vac at the ready, but stumbled to grab it just long enough for all the GD oil to dump down into the #4 cylinder before I could get the end of the shop-vac extension hose into the injector hole ! AAAARRRRGGGHHHH !!! So, #4 cyl is full of oil/fuel ! Goddamn it. I'm going to be much quicker going forward by removing the rest of the driver side injectors & stuffing w/wads of Paper-towel. And then the passenger sides as well. How would you suggest I continue forward. Should I just continue removing the remaining driver-side injectors & paper-towel each hole. Jump to the passenger side, get #3 up TDC & catch the oil/fuel this time w/my quick-draw (Clint Eastwood style) shop-vac BEFORE it dumps down into Cyl #3, and continue forward w/the rest of the injectors by stuffing w/paper-towels to all the remaining injector holes. Then replace all the injectors w/all their new O-rings, TQ them all down to spec. Install both valve-covers w/one bolt fastening them down & turn the engine over 4-5X's to clear most of the oil/fuel that accidentally dumped down into Cyl #4, then remove valve-covers & install all the new glow-plugs, reinstall wiring harness connections to all Injectors & glow-plugs, and then replace all the valve covers back ON & start the truck !?? Your reply would be quite welcome ! Thanks for adding some Common-sense to the Intelligent side of the UA-cam "How-to" community that NEEDS all the help it can get because of ALL the Wanna-be's & UA-cam idiots who dont have any common-sense, and only want to be a UA-cam actor and/or a star ! Ha ! Ha ! These types are only out for fame & fortune, rather than sharing intelligence & helping others ! (That's because they don't have ANY common-sense, or the intelligence it takes to share & help others !) Its the ones who think they are Legends in their own minds, who spread all the driveway & backyard garbage & hacker methods. So they share all their Ignorance, which only spreads the WRONG WAY of doing things. Especially on the mechanical side of life. We NEED to spread MORE INTELLIGENCE, NOT IGNORANCE !
Thank you! Without a doubt, you know these engines, congratulations!!! Last year I purchased a 1999 super duty F-350 with a bad transmission. 356,000 miles. Drive the truck over 2000 miles and it was time to replace the transmission. Now I have an excellent transmission Ford reman. Replaced at a Ford dealer. But now I got an endless string of engine problems. Replaced all injectors at a diesel engine shop with good reviews. I changed them because it started to smoke white smoke. From a little to a lit all the time. They said now it is the turbo. I replaced it with a brand new turbo. No change. Runs powerful, strong and smooth, but white smog. So now the technician is saying the cylinder No. 7 has no compression and rings are sized 😵💫🤔🥺😮💨 WAF...
The reason most motors (electric ) overheat is due to high current flow. If you try to crank any engine for excessive time, the voltage from your batteries drops, the load on the starter motor stays the same, so the current has to increase to do the same amount of work. This is what causes a starter to overheat quicker. "Regular" jumper cables or the cables on a battery charger are too small to supply the high levels of current needed. If you can get another high output alternator on a running vehicle hooked up to vehicle you are trying to crank, and use large enough jumper cables ( I make my own) you will find you can crank longer, with less heat generated and save a lot of starters. Go down to your local welding supply company and buy 20- 30 feet of 1/0 or even 2/0 cable. Get the type of clamps you want (they usually have those as well). LUG the cables and bolt them to your clamps. They will be heavy as *ell but you can start anything with them.
My shop recently replaced my IDM after my 2001 F250 died on the side of the road. The truck ran fine for a week or so after the new IDM was installed, then it lost power, started running rough. I bought an OBD2 MX+ dongle and downloaded FORScan, did the buzz test. I got a code P1277 (High to Low side open on cylinder 7). All the injectors sounded good during the buzz test. I verified continuity from the IDM plug, through the wiring harness, through the injector solenoids and back to the IDM plug- all right around 3.0 ohms, with no shorts to ground or the loom shield. The shop (an hour away) suggested that the next thing I could try is to swap injectors between cylinders 7 and 5, and do the buzz test again to see if the fault follows the injector from cylinder 7 to 5 (indicating that the injector is bad), or if the fault stays on cylinder 7. If it stays on 7, would I be correct to assume that the new IDM may be at fault? In case it means anything, the injectors are bench-tested rebuilds from Thoroughbred Diesel and the shop installed them a little less than 2 years ago. I want to avoid the long crank issues with getting the engine fired up again after swapping the 2 injectors, but I am only swapping the two, not pulling all 8 and installing new ones, so I don't know how best to adapt your process to my slightly different situation. I greatly appreciate any guidance you might offer!
I just pulled injectors 5 and 7. All the O-rings looked good on Injector 5, but the large round black O-ring on Injector 7 looked as though a section of the outside edge of it (about 1/4 of the way around) had been scuffed with sandpaper. I'm guessing this must be what is causing my problem of High-to-Low-Side-Open. Maybe the tech who installed the injector didn't lube the O-ring up properly before he installed it 2 years ago, maybe the tech who rebuilt the injector at Thoroughbred didn't notice the damaged O-ring when he rebuilt it, or maybe I have an issue down in the injector cup that has damaged the O-ring. I'm going to do the best I can to use a light and a mirror to inspect down in the cup, but it is going to be challenging back there on the right-rear cylinder. Hopefully the cup is good-to-go and the new & properly lubed o-ring with fix the problem, as I can't afford any more lost downtime with my truck or more money in repairs(!)
I got my drivers side injctrs out. Got the glow plugs iut. My truck is sitting front high. I started with the furthest back, the #8. Lots of oil leaked in. The injector was a bee-ach to pop out. Think its orig w 330k. I DO NOT understand the idea of the coat hanger being used to being the piston to top dead center. Mine's a 1996. What's a wire or whatever going to do by sticking it in the glow plug hole? It seems important and there's nothing said to expand on this action. I used a brake bleeder hand pump and stuck a small hose down the hole. #6 and 8 cylinders are closer to top and the other 2 front ones go way deeper. I sucked out 99% of the oil in there. Now i'm taking my soft brush w/brake cleaner and plan on buffingnit all up and suckingnout the shit the same way. I would reall like to know how to pimp the pistons manually tho. I don't understand the coat hanger/wire concept.
I know this is three months old and you're probably done with the job by now.... But to elaborate a little The coat hanger goes through the glow plug hole and rests on top of the cylinder. This is to identify where top dead center is. You can get a breaker bar and a big socket, put it on the crank bolt and manually turn the engine slowly while watching the coat hangers position to identify where the cylinder is. You want the cylinder at top dead center so the shop vac can easily suck all the oil and diesel out of the cylinder
Great video just one question why do you put the number four cylinder and then the other one on the other bank up to top dead center? And do you keep putting each cylinder to top dead center as you do each injector?
just 4 and 3 set the vac in those the rest pull and get the paper in there quick like a baby bunny , you will never beat the fuel from running into 4 n 3 thats why we vac then the oil will follow //// as you work and the injector holes will pool a little oil on top the paper towel you just suck it out with the vac
Only those two up to top dead center. We are using those to release most of the oil and fuel that's sitting in the heads. Put it at TDC so there's no room in the cylinder to fill up with the leaked out fluids. You don't need to put the rest to TDC because much less will leak out when the injector is removed because we got most of it with the vac before. We choose those two because they are easy to reach with the vacuum. If you didn't reach TDC the cylinder could fill with oil and when you cranked it with glow plugs removed it would violently eject all that oil, best just to keep it out in the first place.
planning to do cups and injectors here soon when the weather cooperates in the northeast. my first time. Assuming that running 4 and 3 up to TDC and using a coat hanger wire is all a feel thing?@@jamminwrenches860
Do you have a video about the injector hold down bolts? I've heard horror stories about the hold down coming loose and being broken beacuse of torque wrench inaccuracy issues. I appreciate your time and help with this information.
Pull both hpop lines, one to a bucket and the other compressed air pressure before you pull anything that will clear the line and injectors most of the oil.
Unfortunately no so called Expert diesel mechanic shop will do anything near to this kind of care , the shop that did mine took almost a month to get my injector cups and new injectors in and back running . Totally was a nightmare!
@@casimirobuenabista Oh Ya swagperformanceparts.com/94-5-03-ford-7-3-7-3l-powerstroke-diesel-fuel-injector-sleeve-removal-tool/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-24BhB_EiwA1ZOx8nTvzAfYPpM3iIJsTyc2sPftVA0GN8kslUSWBjug-rngFEKwcCdcURoC_5EQAvD_BwE It will take patients
Love your videos! Starting on journey to replace cups and refurbish injectors. Few quick questions, Can I drain coolant and oil prior to removing injectors and cups, vs vacuuming from the top end. Also for 94-97 OBS, is the valve firing sequence the same? and I know the oil rail drain plugs are different, and variation to process with these year models?
There is still a load on the starter with glow plugs our cause they are tiny holes and the pist builds compression before all air can evacuate the cyls. Best way is to prime the oil system with shop air.
I'm working on a truck that is getting fuel in the cooling system, which I know indicates a cracked inj. cup. The owner says that he had 2 cups replaced a couple years, and 12,000 miles, ago while he was on vacation in another state. He is getting ready to trade the truck in and doesn't want to spend any more than absolutely necessary to fix it. I've seen the invoice from the shop that did the repair and he was only charged for 2 injector cups and 2 sets of o-rings. So, that shop didn't pull all of the injectors to figure out which cups were bad. For the life of me I can't figure out how to pinpoint which cup is bad without, at the very least, pulling all of the injectors. Unfortunately the shop that did the repair is no longer in business so I can't ask them how they did it. I feel the same as you when it comes to replacing injector cups but I'm trying to accommodate my customer.
If you put 20psi air in the coolant system and listen to each injector with a scope you will hear bubbling on the bad cups there is 5 ways to do this, this is the easiest
Thanks Clint for the video just have a couple of questions. I did the coat hanger down the glow plug hole and started to rotate engine by hand. The hanger got stuck in there had a really hard time getting it out. Not sure if piston smashed it or if it got stuck between cylinder wall and piston. Really worried about it now. I also has the timing belt off while rotating engine and never marked the pulleys just didnt think about it. Will the belt off mess up everything and you think the cylinder with the hanger is toast? Any info is greatly appreciated.
Okay....didn't see this video until after I did it incorrectly. So what now? Turns over and over than starts but idles very rough and smokes. Let it idle like that for about 5mins. And just let it rest for the day. Next day started after a few fails then once started let it idle for 20min. Idles better but still rough. When I put in to drive engine dies....what should I do now? Worked well prior to changing injectors. New icp, cps, ipr and low pressure oil pump just prior to injector change. Thanks, James
...I'm thinking of modifying an old glow plug to hollow it out and hooking up an air line to it (regulated low pressure) to blow debris outward while pulling the injector out until I can get the vacuum in place ...what say you...bobthewelder
Hi Clint, thank you for all the very informative videos on the 7.3. You really have helped me get through many questions. I do have one question about the start procedure that you explain in this video. Would you use this same method on a new/rebuilt engine that has no oil or fuel pressure yet? Do you have a different method for a new/rebuilt engine for a first start procedure? Thank in advance!
If its a model with the fuel up pump just letting the key on will fill the system with minimal air in it / then fill pan with oil and HPOP reserve remove the hpop connections at the pump and pressure fill the oil with this or similar www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/23550/10002/-1?year=2014&make=CHRYSLER&model=TOWN%20%26%20COUNTRY&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYymWjsJxxhE02JkHPLkeLJae70jlbw3ijADHne_zxZoKN8KF96sB9vcaAqU7EALw_wcB directly into the head on each side till oil comes out the HPOP tubes (elevate the tubes so the entire head is filled and use hot oil ) reconnect and it will fire in 2 cranks of 5 seconds each
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks for the information. Will work on getting the oil tank you suggested. Is there any other suggestions you have for first time start on a fresh engine?
My 99 7.3 is stuck (will not turn over even with socket on the crank pulley bolt) after sitting 5 yrs. I thought it was hydro locked pulled glow plugs. Still stuck. Now soaking pistons with marvel mystic oil to see if rings are rusted. Oil had a little water but I think it’s from condensation, which leads me to think the rings could have rust from condensation. The trans did have problems but shafts turn (it’s 4x4) Any thoughts on this engine being stuck?
I think you should there's one trick that I learned that works good as you take those top brass bolts there's four on each side I take the one at the back and and I will vacuum pump and vacuum all the oil after high pressure rails and that's pretty good of it all cuz you pull those injectors out at all is going to rain or your method into the paper towel but it seemed to work very good I took off those Allen keys the first time all it is make a mess on the ground but those top rails work a lot better you get all that oil out that's my two cents now make sure also sometime and get videos do not buy cheap o rings I bought cheap o rings and I noticed the orange one for the high pressure oil was soft softer than first I thought my old ones were just hard because they were dried or whatever but no they're supposed to be hard not solved because one of them tore or burst through and I consume I spend like a $1,000 in oil because I had to run that sucker and one of those cut through burst through whatever and it was pumping so much oil it was running off 100% oil no diesel my fuel gauge actually went backwards towards full I wonder if my gauge was out so I filled up the tank with diesel and now my diesel was spewing out the cap house as I was driving it got worse and worse to where I had to use 3 gallons of 15 minutes to get home I just shut it off and rent a U-Haul to deliver my crawfish but lesson learned $1,000 mistakes OEM especially on the o-rings
Thanks for your videos. You are a wealth of information. Im getting ready do the injectors on my truck. Just a quick question. Does each cylinder need to be TDC when removing the injector or just 3 and 4? Wasn't quite sure. Thanks again.
Is that because one is in firing stroke and the opposite one is in exhaust stroke ? I'm only doing #4 and #8 because they are weak. I was hoping I didn't need to remove both valve covers.
I found and what i thought my help was i did 1 side. And then started it. Allowing the truck to have to pump less oil and fuel before it would start then did the other sude both times it started withhin 30 seconds of cranking
Clint- back again. Got everything put back together. Did the 5 and 5 with GPs out. Built up fuel pressure. Topped off oil. Got the dreaded long crank/ no start. Do you recommend i pull the valve covers off and take out the glow plugs and bump the starter a few more times? Only other thing i could think is batteries. They were 12.4V after my fourth crank. I shut it down there as to not blow a rod if it is hydrolocked.
Thanks. Yeah its been sitting for 5 days now with batteries out as Ive been doing this incrementally based on time constraints. What would be the difference between hydrolocked and just weak batteries?
Thanks Clint. Yeah doesn’t sound clunky. Sounds like my long crank from a few months back before I replaced my batteries. Ill get the booster hooked up tomorrow and give it another go.
Concern was obviously bending a rod. But after all the vacuuming and bumping the starter 5 times its hard for me to believe much could be left down in the cylinders
is draining the high pressure oil by removing the plugs a problem? will doing so cause the difficult start situation? does it just take longer or does it cause problems/ not work as well?
I have just recently found you Clint. I very much appreciate you knowledge on 7.3’s. I have a specific question about a dead 7.3 is there a way to ask this question?
You mentioned a wire that we could use to crank over the engine by jumping to the battery. Which side do I jump power to? Thank you for the informative videos.
ok i've been watching your video's,99 7.3 white smoke smells like charcoal lighter fluid assuming its unburnt fuel i've replaced ipr ,icp, glow plug's and valve cover gaskets and pigtails ,now i'm moving to injectors and two of them lost a a bunch of diesel from them ,and i mean it poured out ,is that normal or was it my issue, thanks for the video's great material for repairs
You never mentioned anything about removing the two bolts to drain the oil reservoir. Should I do that when replacing the injector o rings. Thanks In advance.
Question: I removed the two injectors closest to the firewall had them tested and they passed. Went to re install and did not torque them down to spec . Now truck is white smoking . To fix this I want to try your method but SHOULD I DO YOUR PROCEDURE TO ALL 8 INJECTORS OR JUST THE TWO CLOSEST TO THE FIREWALL?
So just to clarify the wire that you put in the glow plug hole to find top dead center do I only do that on cylinder 3 and 4 only or for each cylinder I do just want to clarify that
2001 Ford F350 super duty, 7.3 power stroke I was going up a hill and I had a quarter of a tank and I guess I lost prime because when I started it was acting like a ran out of fuel it says I had a quarter of a tank left so I just got fuel at the gas station put it in to the gas station with my truck runs like crap cut in and out. I thought it was a big deal it would clear up I kept driving it now won’t start
Hi I have a question. I’m not sure if I have a cracked fuel cup and want to pressure test the cooling system. Can I do that first then return to the start of this process?
I have a 2000 7.3 with 220k miles … im going to change injectors . Cups aren’t leaking and still good … would you change them anyway ? Or just leave them alone ??
Yes I found after a little over 100k that the injector bottom of the barrel was badly discolored and the internals of the injector where all coated with a thin layer of black silt, Did it cause run ability issues ? no / Could it ? only in my opinion yes ,, It can't be good . Have I heard of anyone having issue with them ? No But metal , brass, copper shed heat different and I would doubt stainless would last any longer but I can guarantee it holds heat longer and heat and oil are enemies
put everything back together except dont install the glow plugs and use valve covers as a oil shield so install just one bolt on each then key off park neutral jump the starter to spin the engine 5 secs 5 times put all back together and fire it up like is talked about in video
his excellent video is a belt and suspenders approach....how to minimize fluid spillage into cylinder(suck and clog) and the how to expel any that got past safely(crank without glow plugs)
Hey clint i have a question. When you put the wire hagner or whatever you use in the glow plug hole do you just push it all the way down and that brings the piston to TDC?
You have to put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn it to rotate the crank. The wire will tell you when you are at TDC because it will eventually rise up and top out and then fall to show you where TDC is at. It's a 2 person job in my opinion.
What happens when the oil falls down in there is there a way to clean it out I watched another video on the guy just pulled it out didn't say to do what you said to do
well Clint i didn't vacuum and oil from pulling the injectors ran down in the cylinder, so will the information you sent still work to free the cylinder or is there something else i might need to do...
Good evening Mr.Allen i looked for a plug on the wire to the starter it wasn't on just to the other battery and to the primary battery solenoid on the wall starter and the small wire to the starter solenoid
so do i pull the drain plu for the oil and diesel rails or do i not worry about it with the paper towels in place? thanks for the video awesome content
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you for a prompt response, i already have 2 pulled , debating buying tools and parts to rebuild and refurbish or buy new ones, thank you again for this valueble information i woud be happy to donate to the channel or buy merch in support if you have a way to thank you
@@williamgreen2364 from experience get new even though they can be rebuilt they just don't last as long We are working on merch and you can donate through the thanks button below the vid only if you want but thanks hey
I don't understand why you recommend bringing only those 2 cylinders to T.D.C. What is the significance of doing that (& not to all of them). No other videos mention that in the procedure.
Those are the cylinders that will have the majority of fuel and oil dumped into them since its the first injector you will pull from the bank after that very little if any will get into the rest of the cylinders and yes no one else shows this because they dont have my experience and I don't make crap videos in my driveway
Well I'm embarrassed, and well this stupid cranking thing is happening and won't start. Getting cloudy smoke, or white fuel smelling smoke out of the exhaust is all. Any tips to help me recover this cranking so it will start? I did everything you said from removing them, TDC used a vacuum, Rebuilt the injectors per your instruction to the T and re instal. I'm missing something I have to be. Really need advise I can't afford to have a shop look at this. I am quite mechanically inclined, please help?
check fuses and relays for computer and IDM fuel pump / check all harness connections / are the injectors fully seated / check fuel pressure at bowl 50 psi min / check oil psi at oil rail 500 min / batteries and starter good not turning slow/ forscan or torque app see what the icp is reading while cranking 500 psi min /
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you so much for your reply. I don't have any gauges :-(, but I can see and hold back somewhat anyways, both fuel pressure and oil pressure at the rail when cranking over. After about 2 revolutions I can't hold the oil pressure back at all, but not knowing the pressure actually I do know oil is flowing through, I am getting signal at each and every injector with a test light while cranking. So it seems to be all working seeing the injectors are being told to fire electronicly. Would that confirm I am getting adequate oil pressure if voltage is being sent to each injector? I've replaced the IPCV and the injector oil pressure senor as well. Glow plugs are getting signal and heating up, I verified this today. You mention the other sensor in front of the oil, Reservoir. I dont recall what it's called woukd it cause a no start? It is getting voltage signal. In fact, all sensors are getting voltage as they should. Via 12v test light... Should I see oil flowing even a little bit in the valve train as in over the rockers, or up through the push rods while cranking over? I am not seeing ANY oil under either valve cover. I'm prob wrong, but this seems really odd. Trying to find and download the form and app you mentioned, but I think I have to purchase an OBD port reader to make it work? I know I'm not making oil at all, as in fuel in the oil, or coolant. It really seems as if it's not getting fuel at all. All injectors have between .004 and .0045 clearance. Should I tighten that up. Last ? Lol for now, can I do a poor man's buzz test by putting 12v direct to each injector to hear the magnet fire? I am so open to any help, advice suggestions my truck is down and I'm walking to work. When I'm not at work I'm working all hours on this truck. Only thing have not done really is pull the injectors back out and search for some sort of leak.
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD 1 more thing, the fuel bowl heater is not hooked up it went out on me last fall and I was told I didn't really need it and could unhook it never had a problem doing that could it be THE problem now?
Anybody got any idea what all that was about ? in what circumstances ? I drove diesel vans in England for about ten years (the rest being petrol) and never had any problems starting, I mean if it's old (like mine) providing your glow plugs work and you have a really good, or better, two really good batteries, the things will start. Fast and hot, she'll go !!
It's a remote starter button. Clip one clip onto battery+ on starter solenoid and the other on the starter side of the starter solenoid. Then push the button to make the starter crank. It's a fancier way to jump the starter solenoid, a screwdriver works too.
Ok this is nice and all but what about the injector cups themselves? I know a lot of people say to go ahead and swap the cups if you are doing injectors anyway so that if in the event you have a hair line crack in the cups you adress that at the same time you are doing injectors, which cups can be done with heads on its just a P.I.T.A., what then?
as long as the glow plugs say made in Germany you are good to go Ford Motorcraft is one of the few that are made there and are of the supreme quality Reviews on D RX look good But I have no experience with them I would say go for it better than the crap at national chain auto stores looking for the highest profit parts regardless of quality
This is the best way to do 7.3 cups and injectors I've ever tried.... Thanks Clint using the shop vac to get the diesel and oil out of the supply rails is absolutely ingenious.... I had never done injector cups before, I followed your instructions to the letter and the priming technique you teach works better than anything else I've ever tried to do with any other vehicle I've worked on. Thanks for your help and time making these videos.
This is one of the best video mechanics around here. He’s very specific, the images and diagrams are super helpful. He’s got it down to every single detail. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and experience
Followed your instructions. Took me 4 cranks to get her running. Thanks for your video.
Finally a detailed instructions for us back yard 7.3 guys, thanks you for your channel
If only all 7.3/T444E owners had a knowledgeable guy like yourself within reasonable distance from them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks 👍
Love your videos. I totally appreciate that you talk to us like we are five. Because I sure as heck don't know what I am doing. And this drives the point home rather well.
Agreed I learn everything the hardest sometimes twice if not explained with a why and how come I ha e to know why and how stuff works and if I don't I will be a confused mess thank you
Thanks Clint, Im just about to embark on this project here in Aussie. I have worked on these types of systems with old CAT equipment . I did my apprenticeship back in 70's on International Harvester engines and agricultural equipment so have wielded the odd crescent or 2 . Thanks for your video's both yourself and Clay from Riffraff have helped me immensely to keep my 2005 Aussie spec 250 Super Duty on the road .
Kindest regards from Australia.
Thanks this is why I started doing this, To actually help
Hi Clint, just thanking you for your video. Very informative and straight to the point. I've watch it numerous times as I did not want to make any mistakes. Of course I over did everything you said, especially the Shop Vac and Paper towels. But I must say, it paid off as my truck started on the 2nd crank. Thanks again!!!
Thank you so much for sharing you expertise. You years of knowledge are much appreciated. You’re my go to guy for 7.3 info!
Awesome! Thank you!
Happy I have found this channel and that you are here to inform all of us 7.3 enthusiasts! 🎉
Love all the backround videos! But again its great to see exactly what you are talking about, makes doing things much easier! Thanks for all the work you do to help us out!
I was struggling to get my 94 to fire up after installing cups and injectors. Your method worked like a charm.
So glad I found your videos, I’ve had a time with my 7.3 dump truck these last few months and now when having issues I come straight here. Thank you for posting quality, informative, and Correct videos to follow! Thank you sir!
Funny, informative, tutorial. Very good. Getting better every episode. I like the Ferris Bueller fairwell, lol. Anyway, I'd surely appreciate an episode covering your experience in whether or not to change cups, valve cover gaskets, harnesses, at what intervals or circumstances; and also stock vs 160/30 vs 180 etc and other drivable options, along w the results and consequences of each size and style. Im sure you've repaired plenty of mistakes I'd like to hear about before repeating them myself. Thanks for reading! (Late 99 7.3)
Hey Custom Works, Ive got a 97 F350, 7.3, OBS. w/175.000 miles on its clock currently. I bought it w/125,000 on it back in 2017. It's a beauty of an XLT/Crew-cab & runs fantastic ! I store it every Winter. Just lately, it started "starting hard" only when the ambient temps dropped. Over time this hard-start issue is getting worse. What I mean by that is, if the outside temp drops to even 70-degrees, it starts really hard. If its nice & toasty warm out, it'll start right up. So I'm replacing the "Original" Glow-plugs (The valve covers have NEVER been removed until now!) So, I figured while I'm there, I should replace all the Injector O-rings along w/new (German-made) OEM glow-plugs. Now, before I saw your video, I removed the driver side valve-cover & removed #4 injector because it stands to receive the most oil/fuel. But what I didn't realize was HOW FAST the oil/fuel would dump down into the #4 cylinder so quickly ! Holy-shit, that's FAST. I had my shop-vac at the ready, but stumbled to grab it just long enough for all the GD oil to dump down into the #4 cylinder before I could get the end of the shop-vac extension hose into the injector hole ! AAAARRRRGGGHHHH !!! So, #4 cyl is full of oil/fuel ! Goddamn it. I'm going to be much quicker going forward by removing the rest of the driver side injectors & stuffing w/wads of Paper-towel. And then the passenger sides as well. How would you suggest I continue forward. Should I just continue removing the remaining driver-side injectors & paper-towel each hole. Jump to the passenger side, get #3 up TDC & catch the oil/fuel this time w/my quick-draw (Clint Eastwood style) shop-vac BEFORE it dumps down into Cyl #3, and continue forward w/the rest of the injectors by stuffing w/paper-towels to all the remaining injector holes. Then replace all the injectors w/all their new O-rings, TQ them all down to spec. Install both valve-covers w/one bolt fastening them down & turn the engine over 4-5X's to clear most of the oil/fuel that accidentally dumped down into Cyl #4, then remove valve-covers & install all the new glow-plugs, reinstall wiring harness connections to all Injectors & glow-plugs, and then replace all the valve covers back ON & start the truck !??
Your reply would be quite welcome ! Thanks for adding some Common-sense to the Intelligent side of the UA-cam "How-to" community that NEEDS all the help it can get because of ALL the Wanna-be's & UA-cam idiots who dont have any common-sense, and only want to be a UA-cam actor and/or a star ! Ha ! Ha ! These types are only out for fame & fortune, rather than sharing intelligence & helping others ! (That's because they don't have ANY common-sense, or the intelligence it takes to share & help others !) Its the ones who think they are Legends in their own minds, who spread all the driveway & backyard garbage & hacker methods. So they share all their Ignorance, which only spreads the WRONG WAY of doing things. Especially on the mechanical side of life. We NEED to spread MORE INTELLIGENCE, NOT IGNORANCE !
Really appreciate your videos they are helping me understand how to work on my 2002 f350 7.3 working on rebuilding a little at a time !
Thank you! Without a doubt, you know these engines, congratulations!!!
Last year I purchased a 1999 super duty F-350 with a bad transmission. 356,000 miles. Drive the truck over 2000 miles and it was time to replace the transmission. Now I have an excellent transmission Ford reman. Replaced at a Ford dealer. But now I got an endless string of engine problems. Replaced all injectors at a diesel engine shop with good reviews. I changed them because it started to smoke white smoke. From a little to a lit all the time. They said now it is the turbo. I replaced it with a brand new turbo. No change. Runs powerful, strong and smooth, but white smog. So now the technician is saying the cylinder No. 7 has no compression and rings are sized 😵💫🤔🥺😮💨 WAF...
Look up clints MAT Sensor video. That could be cause of white smoke.
Mr Clint is the master mechanic for these 7.3!!!
I want to thank you so much. You have been so much help to me.
THANKS Once the shop settles down I'll be back at it
Wow, Perfect Timing Clint! I'm getting ready to do that just this weak. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
The reason most motors (electric ) overheat is due to high current flow. If you try to crank any engine for excessive time, the voltage from your batteries drops, the load on the starter motor stays the same, so the current has to increase to do the same amount of work. This is what causes a starter to overheat quicker. "Regular" jumper cables or the cables on a battery charger are too small to supply the high levels of current needed. If you can get another high output alternator on a running vehicle hooked up to vehicle you are trying to crank, and use large enough jumper cables ( I make my own) you will find you can crank longer, with less heat generated and save a lot of starters. Go down to your local welding supply company and buy 20- 30 feet of 1/0 or even 2/0 cable. Get the type of clamps you want (they usually have those as well). LUG the cables and bolt them to your clamps. They will be heavy as *ell but you can start anything with them.
My shop recently replaced my IDM after my 2001 F250 died on the side of the road. The truck ran fine for a week or so after the new IDM was installed, then it lost power, started running rough. I bought an OBD2 MX+ dongle and downloaded FORScan, did the buzz test. I got a code P1277 (High to Low side open on cylinder 7). All the injectors sounded good during the buzz test. I verified continuity from the IDM plug, through the wiring harness, through the injector solenoids and back to the IDM plug- all right around 3.0 ohms, with no shorts to ground or the loom shield.
The shop (an hour away) suggested that the next thing I could try is to swap injectors between cylinders 7 and 5, and do the buzz test again to see if the fault follows the injector from cylinder 7 to 5 (indicating that the injector is bad), or if the fault stays on cylinder 7. If it stays on 7, would I be correct to assume that the new IDM may be at fault?
In case it means anything, the injectors are bench-tested rebuilds from Thoroughbred Diesel and the shop installed them a little less than 2 years ago.
I want to avoid the long crank issues with getting the engine fired up again after swapping the 2 injectors, but I am only swapping the two, not pulling all 8 and installing new ones, so I don't know how best to adapt your process to my slightly different situation. I greatly appreciate any guidance you might offer!
I just pulled injectors 5 and 7. All the O-rings looked good on Injector 5, but the large round black O-ring on Injector 7 looked as though a section of the outside edge of it (about 1/4 of the way around) had been scuffed with sandpaper. I'm guessing this must be what is causing my problem of High-to-Low-Side-Open. Maybe the tech who installed the injector didn't lube the O-ring up properly before he installed it 2 years ago, maybe the tech who rebuilt the injector at Thoroughbred didn't notice the damaged O-ring when he rebuilt it, or maybe I have an issue down in the injector cup that has damaged the O-ring. I'm going to do the best I can to use a light and a mirror to inspect down in the cup, but it is going to be challenging back there on the right-rear cylinder. Hopefully the cup is good-to-go and the new & properly lubed o-ring with fix the problem, as I can't afford any more lost downtime with my truck or more money in repairs(!)
Liked the video soon as it started knew it was going to be some good knowledge as always !
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Clint
You are very good as always with all the cool ideas , thank you .
You're stressing me out with that starter You're burning up!
i made it to the end and I didnt put it on double speed. you get a thumbs up and a comment.
I got my drivers side injctrs out. Got the glow plugs iut. My truck is sitting front high. I started with the furthest back, the #8. Lots of oil leaked in. The injector was a bee-ach to pop out. Think its orig w 330k. I DO NOT understand the idea of the coat hanger being used to being the piston to top dead center. Mine's a 1996. What's a wire or whatever going to do by sticking it in the glow plug hole? It seems important and there's nothing said to expand on this action. I used a brake bleeder hand pump and stuck a small hose down the hole. #6 and 8 cylinders are closer to top and the other 2 front ones go way deeper. I sucked out 99% of the oil in there. Now i'm taking my soft brush w/brake cleaner and plan on buffingnit all up and suckingnout the shit the same way. I would reall like to know how to pimp the pistons manually tho. I don't understand the coat hanger/wire concept.
I know this is three months old and you're probably done with the job by now.... But to elaborate a little
The coat hanger goes through the glow plug hole and rests on top of the cylinder. This is to identify where top dead center is. You can get a breaker bar and a big socket, put it on the crank bolt and manually turn the engine slowly while watching the coat hangers position to identify where the cylinder is. You want the cylinder at top dead center so the shop vac can easily suck all the oil and diesel out of the cylinder
Wealth of knowledge thank you
Great video just one question why do you put the number four cylinder and then the other one on the other bank up to top dead center? And do you keep putting each cylinder to top dead center as you do each injector?
just 4 and 3 set the vac in those the rest pull and get the paper in there quick like a baby bunny , you will never beat the fuel from running into 4 n 3 thats why we vac then the oil will follow //// as you work and the injector holes will pool a little oil on top the paper towel you just suck it out with the vac
Only those two up to top dead center. We are using those to release most of the oil and fuel that's sitting in the heads. Put it at TDC so there's no room in the cylinder to fill up with the leaked out fluids. You don't need to put the rest to TDC because much less will leak out when the injector is removed because we got most of it with the vac before. We choose those two because they are easy to reach with the vacuum.
If you didn't reach TDC the cylinder could fill with oil and when you cranked it with glow plugs removed it would violently eject all that oil, best just to keep it out in the first place.
planning to do cups and injectors here soon when the weather cooperates in the northeast. my first time. Assuming that running 4 and 3 up to TDC and using a coat hanger wire is all a feel thing?@@jamminwrenches860
Do you have a video about the injector hold down bolts? I've heard horror stories about the hold down coming loose and being broken beacuse of torque wrench inaccuracy issues. I appreciate your time and help with this information.
I can drop my truck off if you wanna show how to do it!!! Lol. Thanks for the video. I'm gonna try to do my injectors and cups.
Pull both hpop lines, one to a bucket and the other compressed air pressure before you pull anything that will clear the line and injectors most of the oil.
Seriously it is a high pressure circle, give it what it wants but in the form of air and that should do it.
Same works on the fuel side, might have a rag over hoses ?
Correct me if I’m wrong but for the OBS trucks is it not already starting to build fuel pressure on the first five cranks at five seconds?
Yes But there is a stupid factor a trainer has to place into the equation
Unfortunately no so called Expert diesel mechanic shop will do anything near to this kind of care , the shop that did mine took almost a month to get my injector cups and new injectors in and back running . Totally was a nightmare!
I need to remove my cylinder head on only one side to correct a broken bolt. How do you avoid the long start if you're only working on one side?
I don't have to do this but i want to do this now.
How do I suppose to do this on a van?
easy do that last cylinder on each bank instead of the 2nd on each bank
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks for the reply, Can I replace the injectors cups without lifting the cab up?
@@casimirobuenabista Oh Ya swagperformanceparts.com/94-5-03-ford-7-3-7-3l-powerstroke-diesel-fuel-injector-sleeve-removal-tool/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwg-24BhB_EiwA1ZOx8nTvzAfYPpM3iIJsTyc2sPftVA0GN8kslUSWBjug-rngFEKwcCdcURoC_5EQAvD_BwE It will take patients
I thought you were SPAM but I am happy to withdraw that... I love your videos and thank you so much for the effort you've put forth to help...
Thank you
Love your videos! Starting on journey to replace cups and refurbish injectors. Few quick questions, Can I drain coolant and oil prior to removing injectors and cups, vs vacuuming from the top end. Also for 94-97 OBS, is the valve firing sequence the same? and I know the oil rail drain plugs are different, and variation to process with these year models?
There is still a load on the starter with glow plugs our cause they are tiny holes and the pist builds compression before all air can evacuate the cyls. Best way is to prime the oil system with shop air.
I'm working on a truck that is getting fuel in the cooling system, which I know indicates a cracked inj. cup. The owner says that he had 2 cups replaced a couple years, and 12,000 miles, ago while he was on vacation in another state. He is getting ready to trade the truck in and doesn't want to spend any more than absolutely necessary to fix it. I've seen the invoice from the shop that did the repair and he was only charged for 2 injector cups and 2 sets of o-rings. So, that shop didn't pull all of the injectors to figure out which cups were bad. For the life of me I can't figure out how to pinpoint which cup is bad without, at the very least, pulling all of the injectors. Unfortunately the shop that did the repair is no longer in business so I can't ask them how they did it. I feel the same as you when it comes to replacing injector cups but I'm trying to accommodate my customer.
If you put 20psi air in the coolant system and listen to each injector with a scope you will hear bubbling on the bad cups there is 5 ways to do this, this is the easiest
Thank You, I will give that a try
Luv your videos and thank you
Thanks Clint for the video just have a couple of questions. I did the coat hanger down the glow plug hole and started to rotate engine by hand. The hanger got stuck in there had a really hard time getting it out. Not sure if piston smashed it or if it got stuck between cylinder wall and piston. Really worried about it now. I also has the timing belt off while rotating engine and never marked the pulleys just didnt think about it. Will the belt off mess up everything and you think the cylinder with the hanger is toast? Any info is greatly appreciated.
If you drain all the oil out.. do the rails drain out as well? Done these before using your method.. just a question
Huge help!!! Thank you!
Okay....didn't see this video until after I did it incorrectly. So what now? Turns over and over than starts but idles very rough and smokes. Let it idle like that for about 5mins. And just let it rest for the day. Next day started after a few fails then once started let it idle for 20min. Idles better but still rough. When I put in to drive engine dies....what should I do now?
Worked well prior to changing injectors. New icp, cps, ipr and low pressure oil pump just prior to injector change.
Thanks, James
Were you able to figure it out? Having same issues but no start
Great video great info thank you
...I'm thinking of modifying an old glow plug to hollow it out and hooking up an air line to it (regulated low pressure) to blow debris outward while pulling the injector out until I can get the vacuum in place ...what say you...bobthewelder
Hi Clint, thank you for all the very informative videos on the 7.3. You really have helped me get through many questions. I do have one question about the start procedure that you explain in this video. Would you use this same method on a new/rebuilt engine that has no oil or fuel pressure yet? Do you have a different method for a new/rebuilt engine for a first start procedure?
Thank in advance!
If its a model with the fuel up pump just letting the key on will fill the system with minimal air in it / then fill pan with oil and HPOP reserve remove the hpop connections at the pump and pressure fill the oil with this or similar www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/23550/10002/-1?year=2014&make=CHRYSLER&model=TOWN%20%26%20COUNTRY&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYymWjsJxxhE02JkHPLkeLJae70jlbw3ijADHne_zxZoKN8KF96sB9vcaAqU7EALw_wcB directly into the head on each side till oil comes out the HPOP tubes (elevate the tubes so the entire head is filled and use hot oil ) reconnect and it will fire in 2 cranks of 5 seconds each
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks for the information. Will work on getting the oil tank you suggested. Is there any other suggestions you have for first time start on a fresh engine?
My 99 7.3 is stuck (will not turn over even with socket on the crank pulley bolt) after sitting 5 yrs. I thought it was hydro locked pulled glow plugs. Still stuck. Now soaking pistons with marvel mystic oil to see if rings are rusted. Oil had a little water but I think it’s from condensation, which leads me to think the rings could have rust from condensation.
The trans did have problems but shafts turn (it’s 4x4)
Any thoughts on this engine being stuck?
1:51 There's a saying about rocks and glass houses.
I think you should there's one trick that I learned that works good as you take those top brass bolts there's four on each side I take the one at the back and and I will vacuum pump and vacuum all the oil after high pressure rails and that's pretty good of it all cuz you pull those injectors out at all is going to rain or your method into the paper towel but it seemed to work very good I took off those Allen keys the first time all it is make a mess on the ground but those top rails work a lot better you get all that oil out that's my two cents now make sure also sometime and get videos do not buy cheap o rings I bought cheap o rings and I noticed the orange one for the high pressure oil was soft softer than first I thought my old ones were just hard because they were dried or whatever but no they're supposed to be hard not solved because one of them tore or burst through and I consume I spend like a $1,000 in oil because I had to run that sucker and one of those cut through burst through whatever and it was pumping so much oil it was running off 100% oil no diesel my fuel gauge actually went backwards towards full I wonder if my gauge was out so I filled up the tank with diesel and now my diesel was spewing out the cap house as I was driving it got worse and worse to where I had to use 3 gallons of 15 minutes to get home I just shut it off and rent a U-Haul to deliver my crawfish but lesson learned $1,000 mistakes OEM especially on the o-rings
What are your thoughts on stainless steel cups for a 7.3 Clint?
I'm waiting on that answer to.
Thanks Yes I learned something.
Awesome video as always sir. But i dont understand why do you want to remove the top injector retaining bolt on #4?
Greatly appreciate the info brother! What is your opinion on full force diesel reman injectors for OBS 7.3?
Never heard any complaints The re builder tests all units before shipping
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you for your prompt response!
Thanks for your videos. You are a wealth of information. Im getting ready do the injectors on my truck. Just a quick question. Does each cylinder need to be TDC when removing the injector or just 3 and 4? Wasn't quite sure. Thanks again.
just tdc the 2nd cylinder in each side
Is that because one is in firing stroke and the opposite one is in exhaust stroke ? I'm only doing #4 and #8 because they are weak. I was hoping I didn't need to remove both valve covers.
I found and what i thought my help was i did 1 side. And then started it. Allowing the truck to have to pump less oil and fuel before it would start then did the other sude both times it started withhin 30 seconds of cranking
what about top bolt how is that set ?
Required watching. Thanks
Clint- back again. Got everything put back together. Did the 5 and 5 with GPs out. Built up fuel pressure. Topped off oil. Got the dreaded long crank/ no start. Do you recommend i pull the valve covers off and take out the glow plugs and bump the starter a few more times? Only other thing i could think is batteries. They were 12.4V after my fourth crank. I shut it down there as to not blow a rod if it is hydrolocked.
you would know if it locked and yes get a booster on it get the batteries juiced up / check all connections ect
Thanks. Yeah its been sitting for 5 days now with batteries out as Ive been doing this incrementally based on time constraints.
What would be the difference between hydrolocked and just weak batteries?
locking makes a loud clunk noise , engine turns big clunk turns big clunk //// batteries slower than normal crank
Thanks Clint. Yeah doesn’t sound clunky. Sounds like my long crank from a few months back before I replaced my batteries. Ill get the booster hooked up tomorrow and give it another go.
Concern was obviously bending a rod. But after all the vacuuming and bumping the starter 5 times its hard for me to believe much could be left down in the cylinders
is draining the high pressure oil by removing the plugs a problem? will doing so cause the difficult start situation? does it just take longer or does it cause problems/ not work as well?
No issue I'm just giving a different solution so you don't flood your cylinder and bust a rod
I have just recently found you Clint. I very much appreciate you knowledge on 7.3’s. I have a specific question about a dead 7.3 is there a way to ask this question?
This video is 7.3 textbook follow and you will be happy. Fired right up today!!!!
Thanks for coming back and letting all know
You mentioned a wire that we could use to crank over the engine by jumping to the battery. Which side do I jump power to? Thank you for the informative videos.
U can bump the starter solenoid
Just got my 7.3. What do you recommend I should do to it
can you crank for 5 from key? dont see wire at all
awesome advice
ok i've been watching your video's,99 7.3 white smoke smells like charcoal lighter fluid assuming its unburnt fuel i've replaced ipr ,icp, glow plug's and valve cover gaskets and pigtails ,now i'm moving to injectors and two of them lost a a bunch of diesel from them ,and i mean it poured out ,is that normal or was it my issue, thanks for the video's great material for repairs
if fuel was coming out of the tips thats the issue
You never mentioned anything about removing the two bolts to drain the oil reservoir. Should I do that when replacing the injector o rings. Thanks In advance.
Yes I stated there are oil plugs but don't touch them that's 1 of the reasons of the vacuum (5:38 ) in video
Question: I removed the two injectors closest to the firewall had them tested and they passed. Went to re install and did not torque them down to spec . Now truck is white smoking . To fix this I want to try your method but SHOULD I DO YOUR PROCEDURE TO ALL 8 INJECTORS OR JUST THE TWO CLOSEST TO THE FIREWALL?
Right on
So just to clarify the wire that you put in the glow plug hole to find top dead center do I only do that on cylinder 3 and 4 only or for each cylinder I do just want to clarify that
correct 3 and 4
How do you rotate the engine with no power ? Do you use the crankshaft in neutral as I have disconnected everything and it's an Auto !
yes
2001 Ford F350 super duty, 7.3 power stroke
I was going up a hill and I had a quarter of a tank and I guess I lost prime because when I started it was acting like a ran out of fuel it says I had a quarter of a tank left so I just got fuel at the gas station put it in to the gas station with my truck runs like crap cut in and out. I thought it was a big deal it would clear up I kept driving it now won’t start
Hi I have a question. I’m not sure if I have a cracked fuel cup and want to pressure test the cooling system. Can I do that first then return to the start of this process?
I have a 2000 7.3 with 220k miles … im going to change injectors . Cups aren’t leaking and still good … would you change them anyway ? Or just leave them alone ??
2000 is the perfect storm of everything done to perfection from the manufacture so don't touch the cups
hello i have a question have you tried riffraff stainless steel injector cups
Yes I found after a little over 100k that the injector bottom of the barrel was badly discolored and the internals of the injector where all coated with a thin layer of black silt, Did it cause run ability issues ? no / Could it ? only in my opinion yes ,, It can't be good . Have I heard of anyone having issue with them ? No But metal , brass, copper shed heat different and I would doubt stainless would last any longer but I can guarantee it holds heat longer and heat and oil are enemies
what’s the best way to get oil out of the cylinders if you didn’t manage to prevent it?
put everything back together except dont install the glow plugs and use valve covers as a oil shield so install just one bolt on each then key off park neutral jump the starter to spin the engine 5 secs 5 times put all back together and fire it up like is talked about in video
his excellent video is a belt and suspenders approach....how to minimize fluid spillage into cylinder(suck and clog) and the how to expel any that got past safely(crank without glow plugs)
Hey clint i have a question. When you put the wire hagner or whatever you use in the glow plug hole do you just push it all the way down and that brings the piston to TDC?
You have to put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn it to rotate the crank. The wire will tell you when you are at TDC because it will eventually rise up and top out and then fall to show you where TDC is at. It's a 2 person job in my opinion.
What/where are you turning to rotate the crankshaft during the procedure to get #4 to TDC.
your glow plugs should be out then use the bolt at the crank with a breaker bar and turn the engine you can remove the belt to make it even easier
What happens when the oil falls down in there is there a way to clean it out I watched another video on the guy just pulled it out didn't say to do what you said to do
This video explains this watch entire video
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thx brotha
What state are you located, I’m about to start some work on my truck and may need your help
well Clint i didn't vacuum and oil from pulling the injectors ran down in the cylinder, so will the information you sent still work to free the cylinder or is there something else i might need to do...
follow the key off and spin engine like the last message and the glow plugs out
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Okay thanks
Good evening Mr.Allen i looked for a plug on the wire to the starter it wasn't on just to the other battery and to the primary battery solenoid on the wall starter and the small wire to the starter solenoid
Good afternoon, is there another option for try to get the motor to spin
@@calvinhill1564 amzn.to/3NfWroD
so do i pull the drain plu for the oil and diesel rails or do i not worry about it with the paper towels in place? thanks for the video awesome content
just leave the oil plugs and fuel rail alone doing it this way
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thank you for a prompt response, i already have 2 pulled , debating buying tools and parts to rebuild and refurbish or buy new ones, thank you again for this valueble information i woud be happy to donate to the channel or buy merch in support if you have a way to thank you
@@williamgreen2364 from experience get new even though they can be rebuilt they just don't last as long We are working on merch and you can donate through the thanks button below the vid only if you want but thanks hey
Sir do you see any issues with installing a boost fooler for a st 1 kc turbo.
I don't understand why you recommend bringing only those 2 cylinders to T.D.C. What is the significance of doing that (& not to all of them). No other videos mention that in the procedure.
Those are the cylinders that will have the majority of fuel and oil dumped into them since its the first injector you will pull from the bank after that very little if any will get into the rest of the cylinders and yes no one else shows this because they dont have my experience and I don't make crap videos in my driveway
Well I'm embarrassed, and well this stupid cranking thing is happening and won't start. Getting cloudy smoke, or white fuel smelling smoke out of the exhaust is all. Any tips to help me recover this cranking so it will start?
I did everything you said from removing them, TDC used a vacuum, Rebuilt the injectors per your instruction to the T and re instal. I'm missing something I have to be. Really need advise I can't afford to have a shop look at this. I am quite mechanically inclined, please help?
check fuses and relays for computer and IDM fuel pump / check all harness connections / are the injectors fully seated / check fuel pressure at bowl 50 psi min / check oil psi at oil rail 500 min / batteries and starter good not turning slow/ forscan or torque app see what the icp is reading while cranking 500 psi min /
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you so much for your reply. I don't have any gauges :-(, but I can see and hold back somewhat anyways, both fuel pressure and oil pressure at the rail when cranking over. After about 2 revolutions I can't hold the oil pressure back at all, but not knowing the pressure actually I do know oil is flowing through, I am getting signal at each and every injector with a test light while cranking. So it seems to be all working seeing the injectors are being told to fire electronicly. Would that confirm I am getting adequate oil pressure if voltage is being sent to each injector? I've replaced the IPCV and the injector oil pressure senor as well.
Glow plugs are getting signal and heating up, I verified this today. You mention the other sensor in front of the oil, Reservoir. I dont recall what it's called woukd it cause a no start? It is getting voltage signal. In fact, all sensors are getting voltage as they should. Via 12v test light...
Should I see oil flowing even a little bit in the valve train as in over the rockers, or up through the push rods while cranking over? I am not seeing ANY oil under either valve cover. I'm prob wrong, but this seems really odd.
Trying to find and download the form and app you mentioned, but I think I have to purchase an OBD port reader to make it work?
I know I'm not making oil at all, as in fuel in the oil, or coolant. It really seems as if it's not getting fuel at all.
All injectors have between .004 and .0045 clearance. Should I tighten that up.
Last ? Lol for now, can I do a poor man's buzz test by putting 12v direct to each injector to hear the magnet fire?
I am so open to any help, advice suggestions my truck is down and I'm walking to work. When I'm not at work I'm working all hours on this truck. Only thing have not done really is pull the injectors back out and search for some sort of leak.
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD and yes I am still beyond embarrassed and broken hearted at this point this thing is winning
@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD 1 more thing, the fuel bowl heater is not hooked up it went out on me last fall and I was told I didn't really need it and could unhook it never had a problem doing that could it be THE problem now?
What does the coat hanger do? Let you know when your TDC or something else?
TDC
Anybody got any idea what all that was about ? in what circumstances ? I drove diesel vans in England for about ten years (the rest being petrol) and never had any problems starting, I mean if it's old (like mine) providing your glow plugs work and you have a really good, or better, two really good batteries, the things will start. Fast and hot, she'll go !!
expert
thank you sir
Where can I get the internal o-ring kit for a 7.3 liter injectors
Where is the wire that looks like an old fuse? I have looked and looked. The wire to turn the starter over? Jump wire 2001 model.
ua-cam.com/video/AWmPdRzgfCc/v-deo.html
Clint do you recommend anti-seize for GP threads?
no thats the ground
Are there any more specific videos or instructions for the OBS method of what you referred to as the “lone wolf” button?
It's a remote starter button. Clip one clip onto battery+ on starter solenoid and the other on the starter side of the starter solenoid. Then push the button to make the starter crank. It's a fancier way to jump the starter solenoid, a screwdriver works too.
Can you explain the obs 5 by 5 and how to do it with out turning the key on
You use the starter relay with key off in park or neutral the mechanical fuel pump will normally prime when you are building oil pressure
Ok this is nice and all but what about the injector cups themselves? I know a lot of people say to go ahead and swap the cups if you are doing injectors anyway so that if in the event you have a hair line crack in the cups you adress that at the same time you are doing injectors, which cups can be done with heads on its just a P.I.T.A., what then?
If you want to replace the cups go ahead and do so Injector cups fail mainly for one reason constant high EGT's
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I see so after the initial run of the vacuum most of what would fall into the cylinder is already out I'm guessing then?
Are dieselRx any good glow plugs or u recommend the oem motorcraft
as long as the glow plugs say made in Germany you are good to go Ford Motorcraft is one of the few that are made there and are of the supreme quality Reviews on D RX look good But I have no experience with them I would say go for it better than the crap at national chain auto stores looking for the highest profit parts regardless of quality
videos at onset are wonderous