I used the RiffRaff tool to change the cups in my 7.3 with about 320K. Great tool and made the job so much easier. There was nothing wrong with my original cups but I was replacing injectors and glow plugs, valve cover harness etc. I wanted to go ahead and do everything while I had it all apart. My 7.3 is more reliable than my 6.7!
@@chrisfowler623 I spent about $2000 for everything That's 8 reman ford injectors 2 valve cover gaskets (uvch) 8- zd-11 glow plugs 4 gallons of oil and a fl1995 oil filter (recommended oil change after injector install) Alliant power injector bore brushes (To clean injector cups)
@@007.3l I'm getting ready to do this. $2000 is a lot. But my truck has been so good this far. I just rebuilt the front suspension. I believe the truck has a lot of life left in it. Thanks
Thanks for the video, just got my cooling system sorted out and I’m getting fuel in my degas. Local shop wants 12 hours of labor for this job so DIY it is! Looks pretty straightforward.
I don't even have a 7.3 but I seem to end up watching all your videos "because knowledge is power" glad to see your grinding even on the weekend keep up the videos. Awesome information as always.
Dude, you really have a great way about explaining "how-to" for us regular Joes. Very few people have the skill level to competently work on diesel engines. You just seem to "get it" and have the ability to convey the process so someone (like me) who is not a technician can understand it and maybe even pull of the project successfully. I also appreciate you not slurring out beloved 7.3 for a relic...again 😉. Great video and please keep up the good work. I don't know if a repair like this is within my skill level but now, thanks to you, I at least understand how to do it. Well done, sir. 👏
I know it’s a little bit of an older video but I’m sure it could help some people out. Instead of banging on the injectors to get them back in you can slide the bracket over that inboard bolt and use the open end side of a wrench on the outboard side of the bracket and just push down. Seats them perfect especially the harder to reach injectors on the back side rather then trying to beat them in. Thanks for the good video.
When you were looking in saying that it was clean.. could clearly see old loctite sitting around the upper bore near the bottom. Sometimes the brushes don’t take it off and you have to use a pick or flat head and chip it off then go in with the brush for a final buff. Just a tip incase anyone has had these leak after doing cups
I put a penny in the cup before threading the tap.saw that in a video before doing this the first time. Being a plumber i like to put a little Lube or cutting oil or WD-40 something to make it a little smoother cutting in and removing the cup. I didnt know the tool could be rented. I baught the hammer in tool&tap. I did rhis twice so far no poblems. These old relics are on the endangered species list. But love my 7.3 p s d's
About to buy a 99 F-250 and plan on doing this whether it needs it or not (if you saw the truck, you'd probably recommend i do it). Thanks for demonstrating the cup tool as well as showing how to do the injectors.
The way I usually do when changing the injectors is. I attach a small tube to a vacuum and I vacuum out the cylinders but the glow plug trick It's prior what I'm gonna try doing the next time. I pull some injectors.
Great video, thank you! Please tell your friend though that you have to hold the handle when using a torque wrench, otherwise it's not a correct torque.
@@andrewruggiero7023 Direct from Norbar's website, who make SnapOn torque wrenches... "Most torque wrenches are length dependent and feature a marked loading point on the handle but, many people don't use it. For accurate results, most torque wrenches have to be operated with your hand centred over the marked load point."
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARoddo you mean try to start the engine with the glow plugs out? I guess you said crank because it will not start without the glow plugs in?
For an extra 70$ riff raff diesel sells billet stainless injector cups totally worth . Brass cups are 100$ vs billet stainless for 170. The reason they crack is due to electrolysis from the cooling system on the brass cups . Switch to stainless and never worry about it again !
Only when necessary. In this cause they had a hard red substance adhered to them. It's better the be safe then sorry when installing 2k worth of injectors.
Did you guys drain the coolant from the block before? I’ve seen videos of guys putting the loctite on the bottom of the cup as well. Do you think it would help with sealing better?
@@tac13001 yes, you want to drain from the two ports in the block first. Otherwise you will get coolant down into the cylinders. Ask me how I know haha
I see this video has age on it, but i must ask. Will this cause white smoke and loose of power to my truck? I've been chasing this problem replaced engine harness and a few different sensors bc my scan tool was showing everything going down electrical. I lastly replaced the cam sensor, ran great but still had the white smoke, idk about the power loss bc I didn't drive it. Scanned it again with a contribution test, #4 cylinder came up, noticed white smoke coming from the head around #4 and replaced that injector, still smoke comes out from around the #4 in the head. Was thinking a broke ring, but this might be a better try before I tear into the head.
Did this same job last year on my 2001 7.3l dually. It had 130k on it and all the cups looked good but I figure if I'm this far might as well replace them. The issue I had was the truck got fuel in the oil during a trip. I found that every seal was bad on the first landing of the injector. I used this same kit, its really high quality. I was wondering what oil you recommend for our 7.3l? I've heard mixed reviews on the synthetic but would like to give that a try.
Hello, I am wondering, that you got the cup seated properly with 10 ft lbs. In the riffraff instruction is written 35 ft lbs. I would say ( i am doing the injector cups in stainless on my truck), that your cup was noch seated. Can you say something? I am still wondering^^ 35 ft lbs was in some case not enough to seat it properly. Best regards... nice video btw.
I've got a 99.5 with 320 on the clock and to my knowledge the valve covers have never been pulled. What brand of injectors should I use and why that specific brand? Are cups usually mandatory swap with injectors also ? I'd like to keep it around as long as I can cuz they're a very reliable engine. I change oil every 3500 miles Mobil 1 15-50 and change my tranny fluid n filter every 15,000. I love maintenance !!
We used full force diesel stage 1.5's on this truck. The cups are not needed if you don't have a leak. We installed them in this instance due to the old ones being damaged from some red crap the last guy used on the injectors.
@@codyphillips48 no it leaked diesel into the oil. The top part of the injector has oil the bottom part that is seated in the injector cup is where the fuel is pressurized and when the cup cracks it will get fuel into the oil because it goes down past the piston rings
@@LaSH_N_OuT_7450 when an injector cup cracks, you get diesel fuel in the coolant, not the oil. Lots of info on the web about this. Just fixed mine the other day that started getting diesel fuel in the coolant and sure enough I had one cracked cup. Crack was right where the cup is surrounded by coolant at the "diesel fuel" portion of the cup
Great tool indeed. Need it in my Arsenal. Curious though are you gonna use the half Quarter trick for the valve cover harness when you reinstall? Seems to me that the harness comes loose eventually with all the vibration going on. Even with new wiring. When I use the half quarter on the harness connector it never comes loose unless I take it off. Is there something different to do? Just curious for feedback.
Just a heads up you don't have to spend $500 for this tool. The company rents this out. It's a $75 fee and you have to get a $500 deposit that's returned to you when they receive the rental back. I'm definitely making sure to rent this tool to do the job.
What made you decide to change them? Didn't look like anything was wrong. Did you think you had cracking or something? I changed my Injectors at 400K plus, which were still running fine (upgraded) and my cups looked good as new.
I have done cups two times now. First time I used stainless. I don’t recommend that. Very hard to properly seat the cups. In fact, I installed 2 of them improperly and got a lot of blowby into the degas/coolant reservoir which is why I replaced them all a second time. When I installed cups the second time, mine did not bottom out until 35 foot pounds.
You DIY guys can pull em & also open another can of worms. I'll keep doing it the way I have for the last 21 years with 0 issues...Lil mess but that's what break cleaners for
We did after sitting 24 hours with the injectors Installed. We removed the glow plugs and bumped engine over the with the starter solenoid WITH the valve cover loosely installed.
Hey arod what's up buddy jl Connolly landclearing and excavation ..bill h. Just put out a good excursion video today you need to check him out..i wish he could be on your podcast but he is so busy I guess from what he said..if you do nothing else though please check out Anthony Youngbloods channel called super duty service..the work he does to 6.0 and 6.4s are incredible..he rebuilds the truck and engine to absolute perfection .. if you live powerstrokes as much as I do which I know you do..please check him out he would be the best to get on the podcast! Don't forget buddy..your friend jl connolly
The electric side of the injectors failed. It was setting high low codes in the IDM. Someone had been in there before. Plus the guy wanted stage 1.5 injectors Installed.
I was thinking the same thing and it also had a me worried too cause my 96 7.3 has 170k on it I’m thinking man that’s low mileage don’t ya think ?but I guess if ya get fuel in the coolant u have no choice then
I have a 2000 7.3L Diesel with 423,000 miles on it and my coolant is getting away very fast like a gallon every 3days or so !! I'm looking for some answers !! Any help would be appreciated
The 8the cylinder injector is a different size. I don’t know who told you that but I don’t think that true. When u get a new set off injectors what is one a different size. Makes no sense
It’s only on super duty’s to eliminate the kackle . OBS has all the same type injectors .Makes the engine more quiet. Same size injector just a different style nozzle I believe
wow low miles that thing just getting broke in. i have done plenty of cups in a 6.0 but never a 7.3 my 03 personal truck has 320k on it factory cups new injectors tho. the old 7.3 work truck we have floating around the shop has 650k on it factory cups still new injectors and i just put a turbo on it the oem bit the dust. geuss its all in how u maintain your coolant.
Great information you’ve shared . I was thinking about changing mine til reading your comments. I’ve got 342k bout to drop new stage 1 180/30 full force injectors in with tunes to pair up with them.
Mine has only 160,000 on it an needed new cups. The coolant was changed 3 times since I got it at 75,000 miles. I think it all comes down to the original installation an who done it.
There is only one problem with your video you do not know how to use a torque wrench properly. tou need to grab the handle out towards the end to get a proper torque reading not push on it two inches above it.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I used the RiffRaff tool to change the cups in my 7.3 with about 320K. Great tool and made the job so much easier. There was nothing wrong with my original cups but I was replacing injectors and glow plugs, valve cover harness etc. I wanted to go ahead and do everything while I had it all apart. My 7.3 is more reliable than my 6.7!
(7.3 owner here) what was the avg cost it ran you?
@@chrisfowler623 average cost of what? The tools or the truck?
@@chrisfowler623 I spent about $2000 for everything
That's 8 reman ford injectors
2 valve cover gaskets (uvch)
8- zd-11 glow plugs
4 gallons of oil and a fl1995 oil filter (recommended oil change after injector install)
Alliant power injector bore brushes
(To clean injector cups)
@@007.3l I'm getting ready to do this. $2000 is a lot. But my truck has been so good this far. I just rebuilt the front suspension. I believe the truck has a lot of life left in it. Thanks
Thanks for the video, just got my cooling system sorted out and I’m getting fuel in my degas. Local shop wants 12 hours of labor for this job so DIY it is! Looks pretty straightforward.
I don't even have a 7.3 but I seem to end up watching all your videos "because knowledge is power" glad to see your grinding even on the weekend keep up the videos. Awesome information as always.
💯💯💯💯💯
Dude, you really have a great way about explaining "how-to" for us regular Joes. Very few people have the skill level to competently work on diesel engines. You just seem to "get it" and have the ability to convey the process so someone (like me) who is not a technician can understand it and maybe even pull of the project successfully. I also appreciate you not slurring out beloved 7.3 for a relic...again 😉. Great video and please keep up the good work. I don't know if a repair like this is within my skill level but now, thanks to you, I at least understand how to do it. Well done, sir. 👏
Pppppreciate chu
nice new and clean install
I know it’s a little bit of an older video but I’m sure it could help some people out. Instead of banging on the injectors to get them back in you can slide the bracket over that inboard bolt and use the open end side of a wrench on the outboard side of the bracket and just push down. Seats them perfect especially the harder to reach injectors on the back side rather then trying to beat them in. Thanks for the good video.
Old school love for the 7.3!
Idk if I missed it but what I like to do is throw a penny in the cup and then take them out so that way no shavings go into the cylinder
Good idea
Stellar advice
Oh no....
I was wondering if he was gonna block the hole
And possibly screw new injectors.
I have that tool did it to my 99 works awesome!
I lovee it
Nice being a helper, nice work. Thanks ARod
When you were looking in saying that it was clean.. could clearly see old loctite sitting around the upper bore near the bottom. Sometimes the brushes don’t take it off and you have to use a pick or flat head and chip it off then go in with the brush for a final buff. Just a tip incase anyone has had these leak after doing cups
I put a penny in the cup before threading the tap.saw that in a video before doing this the first time. Being a plumber i like to put a little Lube or cutting oil or WD-40 something to make it a little smoother cutting in and removing the cup. I didnt know the tool could be rented. I baught the hammer in tool&tap. I did rhis twice so far no poblems. These old relics are on the endangered species list. But love my 7.3 p s d's
I too am a plumber and I feel the same way. Nice to see a fellow plumber in the comments! God bless brother.
About to buy a 99 F-250 and plan on doing this whether it needs it or not (if you saw the truck, you'd probably recommend i do it). Thanks for demonstrating the cup tool as well as showing how to do the injectors.
Thank you for the help on this very informative video
❤
The way I usually do when changing the injectors is. I attach a small tube to a vacuum and I vacuum out the cylinders but the glow plug trick It's prior what I'm gonna try doing the next time. I pull some injectors.
Would have liked to seen how you removed the glow plugs and how you went about getting all the old oil and fuel out to keep it from locking
We have other 7.3 videos
A heel bar is the best injector tool ull ever own
Great video, thank you! Please tell your friend though that you have to hold the handle when using a torque wrench, otherwise it's not a correct torque.
not sure if you're joking or really dont understand how a torque wrench works.
@@andrewruggiero7023 Direct from Norbar's website, who make SnapOn torque wrenches...
"Most torque wrenches are length dependent and feature a marked loading point on the handle but, many people don't use it. For accurate results, most torque wrenches have to be operated with your hand centred over the marked load point."
Scuff the cups very lightly with light scotch bright only where you apply lock tight....
Just out of curiosity if a cups bad will it cause your Reservoir to get diesel in it?
Yup, classic sign
Is the valve cover gasket reusable or not? I wanted to see what I needed besides the injector cups, injector o rings
It is but I'd get a new one.
Great video! How do you get any fluids out that went into the cylinder to prevent Hydrolock.
Crank the eng over without glow plugs in
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARoddo you mean try to start the engine with the glow plugs out? I guess you said crank because it will not start without the glow plugs in?
For an extra 70$ riff raff diesel sells billet stainless injector cups totally worth . Brass cups are 100$ vs billet stainless for 170. The reason they crack is due to electrolysis from the cooling system on the brass cups . Switch to stainless and never worry about it again !
Thank you! Helpful.
Is that sealant compatible with the extended life coolants?
Good job guys... need to turn yall loose on my 6.7
Did you use a soft brush or a metal type wire brush to clean hole?
I got a pink sheet after replacing mine. i have fuel in my antifreeze now. Can't figure out what i did wrong.
I used the otc injector brush
I know that dude working on that truck 😂
Some loooser
Thank you for this excellent lesson, Arod!
Maybe a stupid question, but....
Why is it necessary to replace the cups?
Thank you!
Fuel in coolant
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thank You!
Only when necessary. In this cause they had a hard red substance adhered to them. It's better the be safe then sorry when installing 2k worth of injectors.
Did you guys drain the coolant from the block before? I’ve seen videos of guys putting the loctite on the bottom of the cup as well. Do you think it would help with sealing better?
Yes u have 222
I was wondering the same thing about the coolant. Unless I’m misunderstanding, the answer is yes on removing the coolant?
@@tac13001 yes, you want to drain from the two ports in the block first. Otherwise you will get coolant down into the cylinders. Ask me how I know haha
Yes!!!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodI’d think that should be part of the how to since it sounds important
Good info thx
I know a classic sign of bad cups be diesel n the coolant but would that make NO INJECTOR CLATTER?
Do you half to scuff up the cups were, you apply the loctite?
No
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod thanks!
Will bad cups keep making my o rings on my injectors keep frying every few months? Would make sense
? Do you have to remove all the coolant out of the engine before removing the cups?
...yes
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodhow is the coolant removed from the engine?
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod What would happen if you didn't remove the coolant ?
Ur gonna hydro lock your engine
I have a 2003 with the. 7.3 engine and the engine oil is going to the diesel that can be cause by the injectors or the injectors cup?
That could be a blown o ring on an injector or yea a cup could be fried
I see this video has age on it, but i must ask. Will this cause white smoke and loose of power to my truck? I've been chasing this problem replaced engine harness and a few different sensors bc my scan tool was showing everything going down electrical. I lastly replaced the cam sensor, ran great but still had the white smoke, idk about the power loss bc I didn't drive it. Scanned it again with a contribution test, #4 cylinder came up, noticed white smoke coming from the head around #4 and replaced that injector, still smoke comes out from around the #4 in the head. Was thinking a broke ring, but this might be a better try before I tear into the head.
This will only cause fuel to go into the coolant.
That tool has made me a lot of money!
Me too
Are the stainless steel cups any better
Where I can buy those tools ?? Thank you
Did this same job last year on my 2001 7.3l dually. It had 130k on it and all the cups looked good but I figure if I'm this far might as well replace them. The issue I had was the truck got fuel in the oil during a trip. I found that every seal was bad on the first landing of the injector. I used this same kit, its really high quality. I was wondering what oil you recommend for our 7.3l? I've heard mixed reviews on the synthetic but would like to give that a try.
10w30 in winter....15w40 in summer or 5w40 full syn
Hello, I am wondering, that you got the cup seated properly with 10 ft lbs. In the riffraff instruction is written 35 ft lbs. I would say ( i am doing the injector cups in stainless on my truck), that your cup was noch seated. Can you say something? I am still wondering^^ 35 ft lbs was in some case not enough to seat it properly. Best regards... nice video btw.
Just asking, not criticizing. Is there a plug or plugs you need to pull to drain oil and fuel off before pulling injectors??
Yes, do you need to...no. it will into the cylinders which ull have to evacuate anyways
Anyone know if that tool will work on the vans?? Normally have to remove the engine to do the cups with the standard tool
Id try
So that harness on the injectors just pops right off?
Yea
I've got a 99.5 with 320 on the clock and to my knowledge the valve covers have never been pulled. What brand of injectors should I use and why that specific brand? Are cups usually mandatory swap with injectors also ? I'd like to keep it around as long as I can cuz they're a very reliable engine. I change oil every 3500 miles Mobil 1 15-50 and change my tranny fluid n filter every 15,000. I love maintenance !!
We used full force diesel stage 1.5's on this truck. The cups are not needed if you don't have a leak. We installed them in this instance due to the old ones being damaged from some red crap the last guy used on the injectors.
@@codyphillips48 thanks ! When ur referring to the cups leaking...what actually leaks and where does the leak leak to ?
@@vannorman1116 coolant into fuel
@@codyphillips48 no it leaked diesel into the oil. The top part of the injector has oil the bottom part that is seated in the injector cup is where the fuel is pressurized and when the cup cracks it will get fuel into the oil because it goes down past the piston rings
@@LaSH_N_OuT_7450 when an injector cup cracks, you get diesel fuel in the coolant, not the oil. Lots of info on the web about this. Just fixed mine the other day that started getting diesel fuel in the coolant and sure enough I had one cracked cup. Crack was right where the cup is surrounded by coolant at the "diesel fuel" portion of the cup
Great tool indeed. Need it in my Arsenal. Curious though are you gonna use the half Quarter trick for the valve cover harness when you reinstall? Seems to me that the harness comes loose eventually with all the vibration going on. Even with new wiring. When I use the half quarter on the harness connector it never comes loose unless I take it off. Is there something different to do? Just curious for feedback.
Yepp
Not yet
Riffraff recommended 35ftlb of torq for the cups
8:58 - We are going to repeat this for the remaining 8... Wait, it's a V9? 🤯. Sounds like something I'd say, I just would be caught on camera.
Just a heads up you don't have to spend $500 for this tool. The company rents this out. It's a $75 fee and you have to get a $500 deposit that's returned to you when they receive the rental back. I'm definitely making sure to rent this tool to do the job.
Yepp, we know
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodI’d suppose most of your viewers would not know that
wait you didnt have to pull the drain plugs?
I had to change my injector cups. 3 of them cracked and were leaking diesel into the coolant system.
Oooooof bummer
Can also get coolant into the oil (observed via oil analysis)
What made you decide to change them? Didn't look like anything was wrong. Did you think you had cracking or something? I changed my Injectors at 400K plus, which were still running fine (upgraded) and my cups looked good as new.
Had fuel in the coolant
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Ahh...that will do it, thanks for the reply.
I have done cups two times now. First time I used stainless. I don’t recommend that. Very hard to properly seat the cups. In fact, I installed 2 of them improperly and got a lot of blowby into the degas/coolant reservoir which is why I replaced them all a second time. When I installed cups the second time, mine did not bottom out until 35 foot pounds.
I just ordered the ss cup yesterday before seeing your post. Do you have any recommendations for the ss cups?
How much does a job like this go for? I'm trying to figure how much my time is worth.
there is plugs that you use to drain the oil before you pull
the injectors
Maybe for you
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod they are on that truck i saw them
You DIY guys can pull em & also open another can of worms. I'll keep doing it the way I have for the last 21 years with 0 issues...Lil mess but that's what break cleaners for
How come you didn't turn the engine over to get all the fluid out so it wouldn't hydraulic
Didnt show it....
We did after sitting 24 hours with the injectors Installed. We removed the glow plugs and bumped engine over the with the starter solenoid WITH the valve cover loosely installed.
I’d take off oil deflectors you pry just a little off and you got a $40 mistake 😂 ask me how I know
👍
Why are you replacing the cups?
Bad
They were full of some type of red crap from the "previous mechanic" not knowing what they were doing.
May 7.3s last forever
Bahahahahah
Did you seriously pry on the oil exhaust port pulling the injectors 😮
Hey arod what's up buddy jl Connolly landclearing and excavation ..bill h. Just put out a good excursion video today you need to check him out..i wish he could be on your podcast but he is so busy I guess from what he said..if you do nothing else though please check out Anthony Youngbloods channel called super duty service..the work he does to 6.0 and 6.4s are incredible..he rebuilds the truck and engine to absolute perfection .. if you live powerstrokes as much as I do which I know you do..please check him out he would be the best to get on the podcast! Don't forget buddy..your friend jl connolly
Yea ive seen them dudes...
Under 200 thousand miles and it needs new injectors ... must not have taken very good care of it
The electric side of the injectors failed. It was setting high low codes in the IDM. Someone had been in there before. Plus the guy wanted stage 1.5 injectors Installed.
I was thinking the same thing and it also had a me worried too cause my 96 7.3 has 170k on it I’m thinking man that’s low mileage don’t ya think ?but I guess if ya get fuel in the coolant u have no choice then
I used the one from Whitaker tools. Quicker and easier than this tool.
I have a 2000 7.3L Diesel with 423,000 miles on it and my coolant is getting away very fast like a gallon every 3days or so !!
I'm looking for some answers !! Any help would be appreciated
Better get you a pressure tester...
Cups were supposed to be at least 35 ft lbs.
The 8the cylinder injector is a different size. I don’t know who told you that but I don’t think that true. When u get a new set off injectors what is one a different size. Makes no sense
The size is the same.....look up what the long lead injector means...
It’s only on super duty’s to eliminate the kackle . OBS has all the same type injectors .Makes the engine more quiet. Same size injector just a different style nozzle I believe
I’m a nobody but totally unnecessary for only 170,000 miles on a 7.3 🤷🏻♂️
I see the "previous mechanic "
Disliked this video...
😆
Alwayz dat 1 guy
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
He has no soul....
Didn't drian HP oil first would've been better
wow low miles that thing just getting broke in. i have done plenty of cups in a 6.0 but never a 7.3 my 03 personal truck has 320k on it factory cups new injectors tho. the old 7.3 work truck we have floating around the shop has 650k on it factory cups still new injectors and i just put a turbo on it the oem bit the dust. geuss its all in how u maintain your coolant.
Yeppppp
Great information you’ve shared . I was thinking about changing mine til reading your comments. I’ve got 342k bout to drop new stage 1 180/30 full force injectors in with tunes to pair up with them.
Mine has only 160,000 on it an needed new cups. The coolant was changed 3 times since I got it at 75,000 miles. I think it all comes down to the original installation an who done it.
It says do not apply thread locker 😂😂😂
Yea good luck with that
There is only one problem with your video you do not know how to use a torque wrench properly. tou need to grab the handle out towards the end to get a proper torque reading not push on it two inches above it.
🧐🙄
I have 687000 on my 7.3 and never done them