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Did you get an idea of what percentage of time in their training was spent stressing their fingers (climbing/board training) versus other forms of training?
For people who are wondering what a 10 hour training day would look like for an elite level climber, I was lucky enough to speak to one at the Olympics and it was explained to me like this Day starts at 7 am Breakfast, morning stretches, free time etc Head to gym and warm up (cardio, free routine, etc.) 9 am - official training day starts 9-10 am - light activation drills, scapular engagement, warming up hips and shoulders, some dynamic stretching, very light fingerboard hangs to warm up fingers 10 am - watching videos of past climbs with coach, addressing areas to work on 10-11 am - spray wall drills (focusing on specific things to improve) 11:30 - break, food, head to PT 12:30 - physical therapy and massage to prep for main training session 1 2:00 - afternoon training session 1 2-4:30 pm - hard limit bouldering, working on comp wall problems set, etc 5 - eat, break, foam roll etc 6-7 - free time 7 pm head to gym for evening session 7:30 - 10 pm 7:30 - volume session, working on weakness or power endurance 9-10 pm - general strength and conditioning etc 10:30 - eat if hungry or straight to bed to repeat Some days focus on volume, max hangs, or power endurance, not every day is the same Its also not 10 hours of straight training, but more of a 10 hour work day
Listen to the full episode 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-coleman
Or you can check out our library of 150+ interviews with the biggest names in climbing 👉 thenuggetclimbing.com/all-episodes
Did you get an idea of what percentage of time in their training was spent stressing their fingers (climbing/board training) versus other forms of training?
Nathaniel said 50/50.
For people who are wondering what a 10 hour training day would look like for an elite level climber, I was lucky enough to speak to one at the Olympics and it was explained to me like this
Day starts at 7 am
Breakfast, morning stretches, free time etc
Head to gym and warm up (cardio, free routine, etc.)
9 am - official training day starts
9-10 am - light activation drills, scapular engagement, warming up hips and shoulders, some dynamic stretching, very light fingerboard hangs to warm up fingers
10 am - watching videos of past climbs with coach, addressing areas to work on
10-11 am - spray wall drills (focusing on specific things to improve)
11:30 - break, food, head to PT
12:30 - physical therapy and massage to prep for main training session 1
2:00 - afternoon training session 1
2-4:30 pm - hard limit bouldering, working on comp wall problems set, etc
5 - eat, break, foam roll etc
6-7 - free time
7 pm head to gym for evening session
7:30 - 10 pm
7:30 - volume session, working on weakness or power endurance
9-10 pm - general strength and conditioning etc
10:30 - eat if hungry or straight to bed to repeat
Some days focus on volume, max hangs, or power endurance, not every day is the same
Its also not 10 hours of straight training, but more of a 10 hour work day
Why no questions about intensity?
Average Mellow climber
Average mellow Olympic medalist climber.
The issue with number of training hours is it 15 hours of pure training? Or is it just 15 hours of resting + training on the wall?