@@irinarevo I've finished a companion mini one for a toddler to go with it! Cast on 96 stitches and separated into 15/9 sections, so improvised a touch on the final decreases, but still worked out nicely. I've post them to ravelry!
Thank you for posting this video. I had started making this grey hat from the other video, then realized the instructions were only for the beige hat. I was stuck at the section with three stitches left in the larger section, and trying to figure out how to make a nice decrease working from wrong side...so simple and lovely. Great instructional video--easy to follow visually and verbally.
I watch this video again. I love your work. I caught on too the video so so far with long sts then the short sts. Not sure how many rows you did before your start ti decrease row. Now I'm lost from there. Do you continue to decrease each row from there on ? You lost me when you started too decrease. Do you decrease every row from once you start too decor every other row. I really want to learn this. I think it's the nicest hat than pull the yarn throughout the rest of the sts with tapestry neddle.
Hi Iris! The number of the rows before placing the markers and starting to decrease is here: 3:00 min. The decreases are done always in every other row: 8:47 min. :)
Hi Irina, thank you so much for this video it is a great pattern with clear instructions. When I finished decreasing in long section I realized, that I have left purl, knit and purl stitch instead of three purl stitches. My yarn should be worsted like yours but I was making the hat for a smaller head so I decided to cast on just 112 stitches and lose 2 in every long section (17 instead of 19 stitches). I am just a beginner, and I don´t know if this was a mistake, but could you please give me some advice what to do right now?
Thank you so much, Ema! I am very glad you like the hat! You can reduce the # of stitches by 4 (not by 2) in every long section, or in every short section, or in both long and short sections. If you choose to reduce only the long sections the hat will be a little longer, if only the short ones - a little more round. I would either cast on 104 stitches. Or keep the original 120 stitches but try a 3.25mm instead of 3.5mm. If 104 is too little - you can try 3.75mm needle instead of the 3.5mm :)
Hi everyone! Question….if my hat came out slightly too big for my taste will blocking make the hat smaller or bigger? Thanks everyone! And thank you Irina for an amazing and beautiful pattern ❤
Hi Mirella! I am so glad you like the hat!! If you meant "wider"/larger circumference, then my hats either stayed the same or became a little bigger. I my personal experience the ribbing usually felt tighter/stiffer before washing (as if the hat was going to be too small) and softened/relaxed after. I learnt to make and wash a swatch. Maybe this hat was meant to be a present? 😀
Hi Irina! No unfortunately the hat is for me. I did a swatch but before washing so that was a mistake. It’s a little loose for me so I didn’t know if blocking would only make it bigger. I wanted it more snug. Maybe I’ll give it to my husband lol. Thanks for all your help!
Lucky husband! Just in case, if you’re going to make another one, you can either use a smaller needle size, or reduce the short sections by 4 stitches each. It will become a little smaller. :)
Hi Irina and thank you for the lovely pattern. Today I cast on 200 stitches in fingering weight yarn. Where can I find details on decreases for this hat with 200 stitches?
Hi Rocio, I am very glad you like the hat! Here is a link to another video: Knit a hat with ANY YARN - additional details to the free pattern "The Northern Taurids Hat". ua-cam.com/video/umGKZOMsAws/v-deo.html. You can also check a post on my Instagram page. Hope it will help!
Irina I love your style of knitting and your instructions are amazing. Do you give virtual lessons I would love to take them. I knit but I am a little more than beginner.
Thank you for a lovely video tutorial, Irina! When knitting the alternate round without decreases, the stitch just before and just after the short-section marker is going to appear as a knit stitch (it was either a K2tog or a SSK on the decrease row). Should this stitch always be knit as a knit stitch, regardless of whether the adjacent long row stitch is a knit or a purl stitch? (For instance, after the first round of decreases, the row looks like this, with | representing the markers: -k-p-k-p-k-p-k-ssk | p-k-p-k-p-k-p-k-p-k-p | k2tog-k-p-k-p-k- and so on. Both the ssk and the k2tog appear as a knit stitch. Should those be knit as they appear - as knit stitches - or should they be knit or purled to keep the long row stitches "in pattern"? I do hope this makes sense!
Yes, in the rows without the decreases they should be knit as they appear - as knit stitches. We gradually eliminate the long sections, while the short sections remain the same until we have 3 stitches left in the long sections. You can see this on 24:17 min - I kept the knit stitch columns till the moment when only 3 stitches are left in the long sections. After that the decreases are done differently. By the way, this is what the "inside out" idea is about - to hide the unevenness of the decreases in the purl stitch columns when you turn the hat inside out after finishing. :) I hope I understood your question correctly. Please let me know.
Hello Irina. I had always struggled with the Italian cast on. But, your instructions were so clear that I was successful on the first try. I am nearly done with the hat. I have decreased the number of stitches in the larger sections down to three and am ready to do the final decreases. I used a sport weight to make it for for a todler. One quick question: do I decrease every row, or do I work even rows between the decrease rows for the crown? Many thanks.
Great! I am so glad the instructions were clear! The decreases are in every other row throughout the hat (regular rows between the decrease rows all the way till the end): 8:47 min. I hope the toddler likes it :))
Hi! This is such a lovely hat! I’m knitting this up right now and wanted to clarify that when you start decreasing, do you decrease in the long sections for 1 round then knit 1 round without decreasing? And keep going until there are 3 stitches left in the long section. Thanks!
I am so thrilled to hear from you. Thank you so very much for your reply. Can you please give me more instructions how to knit this flat? I cant wait to make this hat! 🤗
If you have twisted stitches on the wrong side - it means you worked them twisted on the right side (inserted the right needle tip into a stitch the wrong way). If you only noticed that when you looked on the wrong side, it’s likely to be how you worked the purl stitches. This video might help: Knit and Purl Stitches - Continental knitting for beginners ua-cam.com/video/rXn_EgskfuY/v-deo.html
Hello! Thank you for teaching me how to knit a perfect hat! I'm a beginner. When knitting the two stitches together in the first round, before and after short sections, are they purl stitched in the back?
Hi Tereza! Yes, they will appear as purl stitches at the back. This way the decreases are neater and less obvious at the back, which will become the right side of the hat when it’s finished.
Thanks again🌷Merry Christmas 🎄 I did it. I’ll post them (two hat ) in my Pinterest after Christmas, and I’ll mention your channel and name, very nice Christmas gift 🎄Thank you👌🏽
Hi Irina, thanks for sharing this video! I am currently trying to knit this hat with thicker wool and needles. How tall is your beige hat before placing the markers? In the video you mentioned 57 rows, but I think I’ll reach that height earlier on. Please let me know!
Hi Irina, thanks! My question was about the number of rows mentioned at 3:03. There you mention knitting 57 rows for the beige hat. I’m wondering how many cm’s I should knit before placing the markers. I think your answer was regarding the final decreases?
Hi Louise, please disregard my previous answer, I thought of something else. :))) New reply: The gauge is here 2:19 min - 27 rows x 10 cm. So 1cm = 2.7 rows, and 57 rows would be 57/2.7=21cm. At 3:03 min I mentioned that it's before placing the markers and starting the decreases. So, for the beige hat it's 57 rows or 21 cm before placing the markers and starting the decreases. :)
Thanks again🌷 I love your video tutorial, very clear and illustrated well with the markers, love ❤️ love ❤️ love… I’ll try to knit tomorrow as a gift for Christmas. I need three hats.
Could you please show us w a video how we make a tubular cast on and how we join the round, but on longer needles, if this is possible? Because my needles are longer, cannot figure out how do i join in the round the tubular cast on
If your needle tips are longer or the cord is longer than the diameter of the hat - not a problem - you can use a "magic loop" technique. I use "magic loop" all the time - for hats, sleeves, etc. Please check my channel - I have a video about how to knit in "magic loop": ua-cam.com/video/rmem3C8M96w/v-deo.html
@@irinarevo yes i ve seen it but its a different technique right? its not tubular cast on, and i wanted to make the hat exactly how you show us above. The cord of my needle is longer and i tried to do a tubular w magic loop but seems not easy! I could start with the video you mention but that will be another style technically
@@nellat1244 Yes, the technique shown in the video about "magic loop" is Long-tail. To adapt it for the tubular with "0" tubular rows (like I used for the hat) the circular needle needs to be 120-150 cm or 47 - 60" (including the tips) - a shorter needle will not be comfortable, not enough room to move. Do a cast on row, then the first row (which is backward), then for the second row when you connect in a circle - pull the cord out of approximately the center of the work - the working area of the cord will shorten corresponding to the length of the row and you will be able to connect in a circle. Make sure the work is not twisted. Pull the right needle tip out with enough cord length, like I show in the "magic loop" video and go ahead with connecting. This should work! Unfortunately, I can't record anything at the moment - the last few days we had snow and rain and it's very dark, and is going to be the same for the next few days too. Not enough daylight for filming. Let me know if this helped. :)
For 88 stitches - reduce the sections by 4 stitches each. 19-4=15 st for long sections and 11-4=7 st for short. (15x4)+(7x4)=88 Place the markers just like I did in the video: so that the long sections end with knit st, and the short ones with purl st. :)
Thank you very much, Iris! It only looks complicated. In reality, all one needs to have mastered is the knit and purl stitches. As for the rest - the video is step by step. Just take your time, no rush, and you’ll make it. :)
Hi Irina, I would like to ask you in case that we knit with a different number of stitches, how do we calculate the sections? Also, the number of stitches should be multiple by 2? I think that you had these information on your explanation text but cannot see it now
Hi Nella! I removed the options because I thought it was too complicated. It's much easier to just follow the existing pattern. I know someone made it for kids by using a DK yarn and smaller needle size. Let me double check how to change the number of stitches for a different total to make sure it works.
@@irinarevo the yarn I'm using is much thinner and i would like to make it for adults size but not bulky that's why ill use small needles which requires more stitches. Thank you again
@@nellat1244 You can add 4 stitches to each section: 4 stitches x 8 sections = 32 additional stitches, so 120 + 32=152 stitches total. If this is too many stitches for your yarn size, then add 4 stitches to long sections only (19 + 4 = 23 stitches per each long section), 4 stitches x 4 long sections = 16 additional stitches, so 120 + 16 = 136 stitches total. Please make sure that the sections end like on the diagram 3:08 min - short ones with purl stitches and long ones with knit stitches to make it work. Let me know how it turns out! :)
@@irinarevo thank you so much Irina for your kind reply and for being patient and ready to help every time i ask you something, i really appreciate it. I have started knitting already, i will let you know the soonest i finish it! Thank you
Hii! Sorry to bother but i’m new in knitting and maybe it’s obvious 😢,but,do i decrease every row or one with decreases and one without? Thanks in advance!!
@@irinarevouh gotcha! Then i’ll try like this because i know i likes it adherent on his head rather than puffy on the top! Thank you for your time and amazing video❤️
Hello! I started knitting this hat, but realized that I'm using acrylic yarn which probably won't stretch after blocking like wool does. If i'm knitting this for a male, should I start with 136 stitches instead of 120? I'm afraid that will make it too big which might be worse than it being a little tight. I would do a gauge swatch but I'm not sure I have enough yarn for that...
Hi! I am not sure about the yarn you are using, but one way to increase the size of the hat without changing the number of the stitches is to use a larger needle size. I used a 3.5 mm (US 4), but maybe you could try a 3.75 mm (US 5) or so. The hat will be bigger but not by too much. I hope this will help. :)
@@irinarevo I finished the hat! I used 4.00mm needles and it worked out really well. I made the shorter brim version and it was almost exactly 1 ball, which was amazing! Thanks for having such detailed instructions.
Hi, I've been trying to follow your cast on video to knit the beanie but I realized my yarn wasn't long enough to cover 120 stitches and only ended up around 100 for the cast on. Is there any way I can continue knitting the beanie while following (more or less) the same instructions from this video?
Hello, I would re-do the cast on, so that it would be easier to follow the steps in the video without having to re-calculate everything. To find the approximate location for the first stitch for casting on, I use the wrapping method. It works well most of the times. Wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the number of your cast on stitches, add about 10-15cm, and that spot would be where you would cast on the first stitch.
Hello Irina! I love this hat so much! Looks so similar to Anthropology’s Blythe ribbed beanie! I am trying to convert this to crochet using an an existing beanie pattern I make using slip stitches in the back loop that are worked in 8 row long & short row repeats. It’s perfect but I need to determine the difference between the long and short rows. Can you tell me how many rows or rounds make up the short rows and how many make up the long rows? How many rounds you are knitting once you place the markers? Hope this makes sense!
Hi Amy, I am very happy that you like the hat! Do you mean the short and long sections? If so, then first of all the number of rows will depend on how many stitches you cast on for the hat. In the video I cast on 120, but in the description under the video I also mentioned that you can change that and how. If you also cast on 120 stitches, placed the markers like I did, and decreased 2 stitches per long section (long sections start with 19 stitches) in every other row then first to go from 19 to 3 will be 19-3=16 which means 8 times decreasing 2 stitches per long section in every other row = 16 rows. So 16 rows until you are down to 3 stitches. From 3 stitches going forward it’s the same math - to decrease 2 more per section will take 2 rows (a row with and a row without the decreases). Then you begin to decrease in the short sections from 11 to 3 which is 11-3=8 so it’s 4 times decreasing 2 stitches per short section in every other row = 8 rows all together. Seems to be 16+2+8=26 from the markers placement. Is this what you asked about? Please let me know. :)
Hi Irina, thank you for this video! I have a question regarding the needles as I've never used magic loop. Can I start the project directly using the magic loop (which is basically a circular needle with a long line right?)
@@francesca8457 Including the tips 100-120cm/40-47in. For thicker yarn (or thicker cord) I would go with 120cm - the loops are bigger to avoid stretching the work at the change over points. For thinner yarn (and thinner cord) 100cm is sufficient for me. Hope this helps! :)
Do you have a written pattern? I am willing to pay for it. Also, do knit every row or every other row? Is it just me- you only indicate the first decrease row, after that nor sure which decrease row you are on.
I do not have a written pattern. Could you please check the video again: at the beginning I mention, that during the whole process I show only the rows with the decreases and alternate the rows with the decreases with the rows without until the very end of the hat. The decreases in the long sections are the same until you are finished with the long section (down to 3 stitches), so no need to show every row. The difference starts after you are down to 3 stitches - and I indicate that here: 24:35 min. After that I indicate every row with the decreases and show how the decreases are done in those particular rows. Just please watch again - you probably simply overlooked it - it's a long video :))) Let me know how it goes!
Great question! The benefit is that on the wrong side the decreases look very neat compared to the right side. They "hide away". Check at the end of the video - I show the finished hat, and then turn it inside out to show how it looks.
This looks like a great hat for my charity knitting project. I have a question about the gauge. Is the 55-59cm circumference as knitted or when stretched? Thanks!
Thank you! The hat fits the head size 55-59 cm circumference (when stretched). The gauge for the rib was 26 sts/27 rows in 10 cm after washing - 2:20 min.
For a casting on technique and connecting in a circle without a jog please watch my videos: ua-cam.com/video/MViw8b0aMbA/v-deo.html (Invisible ribbed cast on for rib 1x1 WITHOUT A JOG in the Round - ITALIAN CAST ON) or ua-cam.com/video/EYOnWwNuFRg/v-deo.html (Tubular cast on for rib 1x1 WITHOUT A JOG in the Round - ITALIAN TUBULAR CAST ON). For a matching scarf please follow this link: ua-cam.com/video/3YcjyeXqct0/v-deo.html For the additional info - open the description section (click a ^ symbol under the right corner of the video, or press "show more" under the video).
Hi Laura, the straight part of the grey hat is ~24cm/ 9.5 in, and ~21 cm/ 8.25 in of the beige hat. I also have the number of rows/rounds mentioned here 2:55 min and the gauge here 2:20 min. :)
Hi Emily, this pattern needs a yarn that creates a bouncy rib. Mohair rib will not bounce back after it is stretched. Maybe if mixed with merino? In any case, if you love your mohair try making a swatch to see how it looks - that’s what I would do. :)
Hi Irina, hope you re doing well! I would like to make the above hat but with 2x2 ribbing and i would like to ask you shall i follow the same technique as for 1x1 ribbing? Should i keep same # of stitches in long and short sections? Thank you
Hi Nella, I am not sure. I will probably have to make another one with a 2x2 rib to answer your question. I think it’s possible to make a 2x2 brim and then switch to the 1x1 rib. :)
@@nellat1244 I think - yes, you are right. To confirm, I would make a swatch from 2x2 to 1x1 to double check - so that the transition from one rib to the other looks nice. :)
Great instructional video! I love it that you share from very beginning to very end of entire project, including the blocking. Thank you !
I am so glad you like it! Thank you, Silvana!
I just finished my hat and I love it so much! The tip shape is so flattering even before blocking. Thank you so much for sharing this!!!
Thank you so much for sharing your success story! I am so glad you love your new hat!
@@irinarevo I've finished a companion mini one for a toddler to go with it! Cast on 96 stitches and separated into 15/9 sections, so improvised a touch on the final decreases, but still worked out nicely. I've post them to ravelry!
A happy toddler! Great that you figured out the modification. Will definitely be checking it out on Ravelry!
Thanks!
Thank you so much, Anna, for your support! I really appreciate it.
Thank you for posting this video. I had started making this grey hat from the other video, then realized the instructions were only for the beige hat. I was stuck at the section with three stitches left in the larger section, and trying to figure out how to make a nice decrease working from wrong side...so simple and lovely. Great instructional video--easy to follow visually and verbally.
Yay! I am delighted the instruction is easy to follow! Thank you so much for the feedback.
Very beautiful set! So classy!! Thank you for the pattern and carefully detailed instructions! This would look so handsome on my boyfriend! 😊
Thank you so much 😊
Great pattern. Thank you for the step by step information.
You’re most welcome 😊 and thank you!!
I'm obsessed with these hats!!!
I am so glad you like them!
Perfect! Thank you so much! Great additional information in the description under the video.
Thank you very much!
Самое время порадовать себя и близких, теплыми, рукодельными подарками.)))))
Оля, привет! Рада тебя здесь видеть! Я как раз обдумываю темы для будущих видео. Что бы тебе лично хотелось увидеть на канале? :)
@@irinarevo Привет, надо подумать)))) Носочки было бы хорошо. э\
@@irinarevo варежки, жилеты сейчас в моде.
@@olgam7033 Отличная идея! Поставлю в план. :)
I watch this video again. I love your work. I caught on too the video so so far with long sts then the short sts. Not sure how many rows you did before your start ti decrease row. Now I'm lost from there. Do you continue to decrease each row from there on ? You lost me when you started too decrease. Do you decrease every row from once you start too decor every other row. I really want to learn this. I think it's the nicest hat than pull the yarn throughout the rest of the sts with tapestry neddle.
Hi Iris! The number of the rows before placing the markers and starting to decrease is here: 3:00 min. The decreases are done always in every other row: 8:47 min. :)
Hi Irina, thank you so much for this video it is a great pattern with clear instructions. When I finished decreasing in long section I realized, that I have left purl, knit and purl stitch instead of three purl stitches. My yarn should be worsted like yours but I was making the hat for a smaller head so I decided to cast on just 112 stitches and lose 2 in every long section (17 instead of 19 stitches). I am just a beginner, and I don´t know if this was a mistake, but could you please give me some advice what to do right now?
Thank you so much, Ema! I am very glad you like the hat! You can reduce the # of stitches by 4 (not by 2) in every long section, or in every short section, or in both long and short sections. If you choose to reduce only the long sections the hat will be a little longer, if only the short ones - a little more round. I would either cast on 104 stitches. Or keep the original 120 stitches but try a 3.25mm instead of 3.5mm. If 104 is too little - you can try 3.75mm needle instead of the 3.5mm :)
Hi everyone! Question….if my hat came out slightly too big for my taste will blocking make the hat smaller or bigger? Thanks everyone! And thank you Irina for an amazing and beautiful pattern ❤
Hi Mirella! I am so glad you like the hat!!
If you meant "wider"/larger circumference, then my hats either stayed the same or became a little bigger. I my personal experience the ribbing usually felt tighter/stiffer before washing (as if the hat was going to be too small) and softened/relaxed after. I learnt to make and wash a swatch. Maybe this hat was meant to be a present? 😀
Hi Irina! No unfortunately the hat is for me. I did a swatch but before washing so that was a mistake. It’s a little loose for me so I didn’t know if blocking would only make it bigger. I wanted it more snug. Maybe I’ll give it to my husband lol. Thanks for all your help!
Lucky husband! Just in case, if you’re going to make another one, you can either use a smaller needle size, or reduce the short sections by 4 stitches each. It will become a little smaller. :)
This hat is just so simple but beautiful! I'd love to make the top not quite as pointy can you give me advice how to do that?
Thank you! Try to decrease in every round instead of in every other - in the last few rounds, for example.
Well explained and illustrated, thanks for sharing 🌹❤️
Thank you so much!
Hi Irina and thank you for the lovely pattern. Today I cast on 200 stitches in fingering weight yarn. Where can I find details on decreases for this hat with 200 stitches?
Hi Rocio, I am very glad you like the hat! Here is a link to another video: Knit a hat with ANY YARN - additional details to the free pattern "The Northern Taurids Hat".
ua-cam.com/video/umGKZOMsAws/v-deo.html. You can also check a post on my Instagram page. Hope it will help!
What a beautiful hat.
Thank you!❤️
Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!
My pleasure, Gayle!
I love this! Thank you! I would LOVE to see it done top down!
I am very glad! Top down is an interesting idea!
Irina I love your style of knitting and your instructions are amazing. Do you give virtual lessons I would love to take them. I knit but I am a little more than beginner.
Hi Jeannette, thank you for your lovely feedback! At present I am not in a position to offer virtual classes, but it’s a great idea for the future.
Thank you for a lovely video tutorial, Irina! When knitting the alternate round without decreases, the stitch just before and just after the short-section marker is going to appear as a knit stitch (it was either a K2tog or a SSK on the decrease row). Should this stitch always be knit as a knit stitch, regardless of whether the adjacent long row stitch is a knit or a purl stitch? (For instance, after the first round of decreases, the row looks like this, with | representing the markers: -k-p-k-p-k-p-k-ssk | p-k-p-k-p-k-p-k-p-k-p | k2tog-k-p-k-p-k- and so on. Both the ssk and the k2tog appear as a knit stitch. Should those be knit as they appear - as knit stitches - or should they be knit or purled to keep the long row stitches "in pattern"? I do hope this makes sense!
Yes, in the rows without the decreases they should be knit as they appear - as knit stitches. We gradually eliminate the long sections, while the short sections remain the same until we have 3 stitches left in the long sections. You can see this on 24:17 min - I kept the knit stitch columns till the moment when only 3 stitches are left in the long sections. After that the decreases are done differently.
By the way, this is what the "inside out" idea is about - to hide the unevenness of the decreases in the purl stitch columns when you turn the hat inside out after finishing. :)
I hope I understood your question correctly. Please let me know.
Thank you so much!
What a beautiful result! Thank you for sharing this tutorial, it is of great value!!
Thank you so much! I am delighted! ❤️
Hello Irina. I had always struggled with the Italian cast on. But, your instructions were so clear that I was successful on the first try. I am nearly done with the hat. I have decreased the number of stitches in the larger sections down to three and am ready to do the final decreases. I used a sport weight to make it for for a todler.
One quick question: do I decrease every row, or do I work even rows between the decrease rows for the crown? Many thanks.
Great! I am so glad the instructions were clear! The decreases are in every other row throughout the hat (regular rows between the decrease rows all the way till the end): 8:47 min. I hope the toddler likes it :))
Hi! This is such a lovely hat! I’m knitting this up right now and wanted to clarify that when you start decreasing, do you decrease in the long sections for 1 round then knit 1 round without decreasing? And keep going until there are 3 stitches left in the long section. Thanks!
I am so glad you like the hat! Yes, one round with the decreases and one without. All the way.
Hello, Irina. Thank you for sharing the pattern. I LOVE it. Can you knit flat with this pattern? 😃
Yes of course!
I am so thrilled to hear from you. Thank you so very much for your reply. Can you please give me more instructions how to knit this flat? I cant wait to make this hat! 🤗
I wouldn’t join in the circle and add selvedge stitches so you could sew it up later. Do you use a knitting machine?
Thanks😊 your stiches look the same on the right an wrong side, by me isn' so I don't know how?
Hi Anna! It’s a 1x1 ribbing. Both sides look the same. :)
I made it exactly as you and my wrong side has twisted stiches 🙃 it comes from left stiches on the right side 🤔
If you have twisted stitches on the wrong side - it means you worked them twisted on the right side (inserted the right needle tip into a stitch the wrong way). If you only noticed that when you looked on the wrong side, it’s likely to be how you worked the purl stitches. This video might help: Knit and Purl Stitches - Continental knitting for beginners ua-cam.com/video/rXn_EgskfuY/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot!!! I have made with Russian method instead purl with continental 😉
Glad we figured it out!
Hello! Thank you for teaching me how to knit a perfect hat! I'm a beginner. When knitting the two stitches together in the first round, before and after short sections, are they purl stitched in the back?
Hi Tereza! Yes, they will appear as purl stitches at the back. This way the decreases are neater and less obvious at the back, which will become the right side of the hat when it’s finished.
@@irinarevo , thank you very much! I"ll return when i finish it!
Have fun knitting!
@@irinarevo , I finished it. It was dificult, but I did and it is beautiful. Thank you very much!
Great!! Btw, if you post a photo on Instagram or Ravelry and tag my name, I’ll be able to see it 😀
BEAUTIFUL tutorial. Can't wait to try!!!!
Thank you, Peggy! Have fun knitting!
Спасибо большое! Прекрасное описание, шапка отличная!
Большое спасибо! Очень рада!
Thank you for your wonderful video. Can you explain this knitting method in Japanese? May I introduce you on my channel?
Thank you so much! Unfortunately I do not speak Japanese. For business communications please email me directly.
@@irinarevo Thank you for your reply. Excuse me, where is email?
Please find here: ua-cam.com/users/irinarevoabout. It will show on a computer only.
Thanks again🌷Merry Christmas 🎄 I did it. I’ll post them (two hat ) in my Pinterest after Christmas, and I’ll mention your channel and name, very nice Christmas gift 🎄Thank you👌🏽
Yay - two hats! Thank you so much for sharing! I’d love to see the hats on Pinterest, or on Ravelry. And thank you for mentioning my channel! 🎄
Hi Irina, thanks for sharing this video! I am currently trying to knit this hat with thicker wool and needles. How tall is your beige hat before placing the markers? In the video you mentioned 57 rows, but I think I’ll reach that height earlier on. Please let me know!
Hi Irina, thanks! My question was about the number of rows mentioned at 3:03. There you mention knitting 57 rows for the beige hat. I’m wondering how many cm’s I should knit before placing the markers. I think your answer was regarding the final decreases?
Hi Louise, please disregard my previous answer, I thought of something else. :)))
New reply: The gauge is here 2:19 min - 27 rows x 10 cm. So 1cm = 2.7 rows, and 57 rows would be 57/2.7=21cm. At 3:03 min I mentioned that it's before placing the markers and starting the decreases. So, for the beige hat it's 57 rows or 21 cm before placing the markers and starting the decreases. :)
Wonderful, thank you!
im not a really experienced knitter and I'm going to make this out of black yarn. wish me luck
I believe in you! Best of luck!
Lovely video! and so we’ll explained!! ❤❤
Thank you so much! 😃
Thanks again🌷 I love your video tutorial, very clear and illustrated well with the markers, love ❤️ love ❤️ love… I’ll try to knit tomorrow as a gift for Christmas. I need three hats.
Thank you so much! Have a wonderful time knitting - I hope your hats turn out great!
Could you please show us w a video how we make a tubular cast on and how we join the round, but on longer needles, if this is possible? Because my needles are longer, cannot figure out how do i join in the round the tubular cast on
If your needle tips are longer or the cord is longer than the diameter of the hat - not a problem - you can use a "magic loop" technique. I use "magic loop" all the time - for hats, sleeves, etc. Please check my channel - I have a video about how to knit in "magic loop": ua-cam.com/video/rmem3C8M96w/v-deo.html
@@irinarevo yes i ve seen it but its a different technique right? its not tubular cast on, and i wanted to make the hat exactly how you show us above. The cord of my needle is longer and i tried to do a tubular w magic loop but seems not easy! I could start with the video you mention but that will be another style technically
@@nellat1244 Yes, the technique shown in the video about "magic loop" is Long-tail. To adapt it for the tubular with "0" tubular rows (like I used for the hat) the circular needle needs to be 120-150 cm or 47 - 60" (including the tips) - a shorter needle will not be comfortable, not enough room to move. Do a cast on row, then the first row (which is backward), then for the second row when you connect in a circle - pull the cord out of approximately the center of the work - the working area of the cord will shorten corresponding to the length of the row and you will be able to connect in a circle. Make sure the work is not twisted. Pull the right needle tip out with enough cord length, like I show in the "magic loop" video and go ahead with connecting. This should work! Unfortunately, I can't record anything at the moment - the last few days we had snow and rain and it's very dark, and is going to be the same for the next few days too. Not enough daylight for filming. Let me know if this helped. :)
@@irinarevo thank you, i ll try do that
Perfect! Let me know how it goes. :)
I want to knit a small hat for a toddler with 88 stitches. Can you tell me where I need to place my stitch markers please.
For 88 stitches - reduce the sections by 4 stitches each. 19-4=15 st for long sections and 11-4=7 st for short. (15x4)+(7x4)=88 Place the markers just like I did in the video: so that the long sections end with knit st, and the short ones with purl st. :)
Great thanks for the help. looking forward to knitting this beautiful hat
You are very advanced for me. Love the hat, I wish I could do the hat the way you do it. It beautiful.
Thank you very much, Iris! It only looks complicated. In reality, all one needs to have mastered is the knit and purl stitches. As for the rest - the video is step by step. Just take your time, no rush, and you’ll make it. :)
Nice sharing 👍🤝🙏🌹👍
Thank you!
The beige one looks better on you...it looks so elegant on you.
Thank you!
Another beautiful pattern! ❤️
Thank you so much!
Hi, I would like to knit the hat but without the pointed top. How can I alter it?
Hi, you can try to decrease in every round vs in every other.
Hi Irina, I would like to ask you in case that we knit with a different number of stitches, how do we calculate the sections? Also, the number of stitches should be multiple by 2? I think that you had these information on your explanation text but cannot see it now
Hi Nella!
I removed the options because I thought it was too complicated. It's much easier to just follow the existing pattern. I know someone made it for kids by using a DK yarn and smaller needle size. Let me double check how to change the number of stitches for a different total to make sure it works.
@@irinarevo yes please and thank you again
@@irinarevo the yarn I'm using is much thinner and i would like to make it for adults size but not bulky that's why ill use small needles which requires more stitches. Thank you again
@@nellat1244 You can add 4 stitches to each section: 4 stitches x 8 sections = 32 additional stitches, so 120 + 32=152 stitches total. If this is too many stitches for your yarn size, then add 4 stitches to long sections only (19 + 4 = 23 stitches per each long section), 4 stitches x 4 long sections = 16 additional stitches, so 120 + 16 = 136 stitches total. Please make sure that the sections end like on the diagram 3:08 min - short ones with purl stitches and long ones with knit stitches to make it work. Let me know how it turns out! :)
@@irinarevo thank you so much Irina for your kind reply and for being patient and ready to help every time i ask you something, i really appreciate it. I have started knitting already, i will let you know the soonest i finish it! Thank you
Do you have written instructions available?
No, video instructions only.
Hii! Sorry to bother but i’m new in knitting and maybe it’s obvious 😢,but,do i decrease every row or one with decreases and one without? Thanks in advance!!
One with and one without.
Thank you irina! Can’t wait to do it for my boyfriend!!
One more question,do you think that if i want it to fit without the point i just need to make it shorter?
I would probably decrease in every round at the top (vs in every second).
@@irinarevouh gotcha! Then i’ll try like this because i know i likes it adherent on his head rather than puffy on the top!
Thank you for your time and amazing video❤️
Hello! I started knitting this hat, but realized that I'm using acrylic yarn which probably won't stretch after blocking like wool does. If i'm knitting this for a male, should I start with 136 stitches instead of 120? I'm afraid that will make it too big which might be worse than it being a little tight. I would do a gauge swatch but I'm not sure I have enough yarn for that...
Hi! I am not sure about the yarn you are using, but one way to increase the size of the hat without changing the number of the stitches is to use a larger needle size. I used a 3.5 mm (US 4), but maybe you could try a 3.75 mm (US 5) or so. The hat will be bigger but not by too much. I hope this will help. :)
@@irinarevo thank you so much! I hadn’t thought of that but now I feel relieved!
@@sy-hd6xm Great! Let me know how it worked out for you. :))
@@irinarevo I finished the hat! I used 4.00mm needles and it worked out really well. I made the shorter brim version and it was almost exactly 1 ball, which was amazing! Thanks for having such detailed instructions.
@@sy-hd6xm Yay! Thank you so much for letting me know! I am delighted that everything worked out well for you :)
Hi, I've been trying to follow your cast on video to knit the beanie but I realized my yarn wasn't long enough to cover 120 stitches and only ended up around 100 for the cast on. Is there any way I can continue knitting the beanie while following (more or less) the same instructions from this video?
Hello, I would re-do the cast on, so that it would be easier to follow the steps in the video without having to re-calculate everything. To find the approximate location for the first stitch for casting on, I use the wrapping method. It works well most of the times. Wrap the yarn tail around the needle as many times as the number of your cast on stitches, add about 10-15cm, and that spot would be where you would cast on the first stitch.
@@irinarevo Ok, thank you for responding 😊
Can you please make a video tutorial “how to cast on möbius knitting” in garter stitches-shrug. Thanks again🌷
Thank you very much for your question - I will try to post soon.
Hello Irina! I love this hat so much! Looks so similar to Anthropology’s Blythe ribbed beanie! I am trying to convert this to crochet using an an existing beanie pattern I make using slip stitches in the back loop that are worked in 8 row long & short row repeats. It’s perfect but I need to determine the difference between the long and short rows. Can you tell me how many rows or rounds make up the short rows and how many make up the long rows? How many rounds you are knitting once you place the markers? Hope this makes sense!
Hi Amy, I am very happy that you like the hat! Do you mean the short and long sections? If so, then first of all the number of rows will depend on how many stitches you cast on for the hat. In the video I cast on 120, but in the description under the video I also mentioned that you can change that and how. If you also cast on 120 stitches, placed the markers like I did, and decreased 2 stitches per long section (long sections start with 19 stitches) in every other row then first to go from 19 to 3 will be 19-3=16 which means 8 times decreasing 2 stitches per long section in every other row = 16 rows. So 16 rows until you are down to 3 stitches. From 3 stitches going forward it’s the same math - to decrease 2 more per section will take 2 rows (a row with and a row without the decreases). Then you begin to decrease in the short sections from 11 to 3 which is 11-3=8 so it’s 4 times decreasing 2 stitches per short section in every other row = 8 rows all together. Seems to be 16+2+8=26 from the markers placement. Is this what you asked about? Please let me know. :)
Hi Irina, thank you for this video! I have a question regarding the needles as I've never used magic loop. Can I start the project directly using the magic loop (which is basically a circular needle with a long line right?)
Yes! :)
@@irinarevo Thank you! So would you suggest a certain length for the needles?
@@francesca8457 Including the tips 100-120cm/40-47in. For thicker yarn (or thicker cord) I would go with 120cm - the loops are bigger to avoid stretching the work at the change over points. For thinner yarn (and thinner cord) 100cm is sufficient for me. Hope this helps! :)
@@irinarevo Thank you so much! Super helpful!!
@@francesca8457 Great! Have fun knitting!
Do you have a written pattern? I am willing to pay for it. Also, do knit every row or every other row? Is it just me- you only indicate the first decrease row, after that nor sure which decrease row you are on.
I do not have a written pattern. Could you please check the video again: at the beginning I mention, that during the whole process I show only the rows with the decreases and alternate the rows with the decreases with the rows without until the very end of the hat. The decreases in the long sections are the same until you are finished with the long section (down to 3 stitches), so no need to show every row. The difference starts after you are down to 3 stitches - and I indicate that here: 24:35 min. After that I indicate every row with the decreases and show how the decreases are done in those particular rows. Just please watch again - you probably simply overlooked it - it's a long video :))) Let me know how it goes!
Thank you. I went back and slowed down the video and see it. Thank you!
@@SR949900 Yay!
i am just curious... is there a specific benefit to knitting this inside-out?
Great question! The benefit is that on the wrong side the decreases look very neat compared to the right side. They "hide away". Check at the end of the video - I show the finished hat, and then turn it inside out to show how it looks.
This looks like a great hat for my charity knitting project. I have a question about the gauge. Is the 55-59cm circumference as knitted or when stretched? Thanks!
Thank you! The hat fits the head size 55-59 cm circumference (when stretched). The gauge for the rib was 26 sts/27 rows in 10 cm after washing - 2:20 min.
For a casting on technique and connecting in a circle without a jog please watch my videos:
ua-cam.com/video/MViw8b0aMbA/v-deo.html (Invisible ribbed cast on for rib 1x1 WITHOUT A JOG in the Round - ITALIAN CAST ON)
or ua-cam.com/video/EYOnWwNuFRg/v-deo.html (Tubular cast on for rib 1x1 WITHOUT A JOG in the Round - ITALIAN TUBULAR CAST ON).
For a matching scarf please follow this link: ua-cam.com/video/3YcjyeXqct0/v-deo.html
For the additional info - open the description section (click a ^ symbol under the right corner of the video, or press "show more" under the video).
Thank you for your service
Можно узнать какой расход на мужскую шапку?
Примерно 121 грамм - 2:09 минута.
@@irinarevo спасибо)
Hi Irina can I please know how many centimetres is the straight part ? Thank in advance 😊
Hi Laura, the straight part of the grey hat is ~24cm/ 9.5 in, and ~21 cm/ 8.25 in of the beige hat. I also have the number of rows/rounds mentioned here 2:55 min and the gauge here 2:20 min. :)
Thank you so much is because I am using a thinner yarn , thank you so much
@@lauradigiammarco3878 My pleasure, Laura!
Hello can I knit this pattern with mohair?
Hi Emily, this pattern needs a yarn that creates a bouncy rib. Mohair rib will not bounce back after it is stretched. Maybe if mixed with merino? In any case, if you love your mohair try making a swatch to see how it looks - that’s what I would do. :)
Hi Irina, hope you re doing well! I would like to make the above hat but with 2x2 ribbing and i would like to ask you shall i follow the same technique as for 1x1 ribbing? Should i keep same # of stitches in long and short sections? Thank you
Hi Nella, I am not sure. I will probably have to make another one with a 2x2 rib to answer your question. I think it’s possible to make a 2x2 brim and then switch to the 1x1 rib. :)
@@irinarevo Thank you Irina, I'll try do that, sounds nice to me, start with 2x2 and then switch to 1x1
@@irinarevo smaller needles for brim and bigger for the rest you think is better?
@@nellat1244 Great! Let me know how it turns out! :)
@@nellat1244 I think - yes, you are right. To confirm, I would make a swatch from 2x2 to 1x1 to double check - so that the transition from one rib to the other looks nice. :)
Спасибо!
😀
Nice
Thank you!
What is the needle size you used for this hat?
It's 3.5 mm/US 4 - here 2:14 min
Thank you for your quick reply!
8:36 24:38 28:00
🦊🌺🍒🌈
😀