@0:59 you say you already cut out that gal pipe. Exactly how square does that cut need to be ? I will be uncomfortable, in a tight space, on my back, using either a sawzall or an angle grinder. Helpful hints and tips appreciated.
At times, I'll take some sand cloth and use that as a pipe wrap to mark out a square cut prior to cutting. The best possible solution is to keep it as square as possible, but that isn't always the case. If you end up out of square, I'd say that the furthest out would be no more that an 1/8th inch.
More or less. I have a video coming up on this exact topic. The fernco type of connector is not approved for this type of installation by trade standards.
Milwaukee has developed a specific torque rated cordless drill that I can safely say works well. However, an older impact drill could bind the bands up and either lock it up prior to proper torque, or break the band all together. I've had too many of my crew over the years break bands
The way an impact driver works is by hammering. In the process of hammering a no hub clamp it will "tweak" the coupling to the point of galling the stainless- thus running the risk of an improper torque reading. I prefer to use a standard cordless torque rated drill, then the T-handle torque wrench. Torque drills will only tighten to the desired tension then the clutch drive stops it from continued tightening. I hope this answers your question.
You are the only video that shows folding the rubber gasket back in all my youtube searches.
Wow. Hard to believe. I'm glad it helped out!
Thank you. Knowing to peel the rubber flange back before wedging the pipe in is crucial.
That is a technique that makes for a much easier installation for sure!
This is great - thanks for sharing this information. I hadn't realized that you could peel the rubber back. Saved my bacon.
I'm happy you got something out of this! Hope you enjoy the others.
Subtle jab at Grainger 👌🏽
Well.... :)
@0:59 you say you already cut out that gal pipe.
Exactly how square does that cut need to be ?
I will be uncomfortable, in a tight space, on my back, using either a sawzall or an angle grinder.
Helpful hints and tips appreciated.
At times, I'll take some sand cloth and use that as a pipe wrap to mark out a square cut prior to cutting. The best possible solution is to keep it as square as possible, but that isn't always the case. If you end up out of square, I'd say that the furthest out would be no more that an 1/8th inch.
Im not a plumber but i was wondering the difference between this and a fernco , im assuming these are meant for support?
More or less. I have a video coming up on this exact topic. The fernco type of connector is not approved for this type of installation by trade standards.
Can these be used where there is ground contact?
I am assuming you meant if they can be used underground. If so, then the answer is definitely yes.
You can use an impact all day on those bands.
Milwaukee has developed a specific torque rated cordless drill that I can safely say works well. However, an older impact drill could bind the bands up and either lock it up prior to proper torque, or break the band all together. I've had too many of my crew over the years break bands
Thank you.
You are welcome!
same 60 inch pound on a pvc pipe too???
It is the same rating with PVC. Keep in mind, this is inch pounds and not foot pounds, which makes a big difference.
Is a sanitary t ok horizontally?
It is when connecting vents together, which was the case in this situation. Great question.
Why are you not using a impact drive driver?
The way an impact driver works is by hammering. In the process of hammering a no hub clamp it will "tweak" the coupling to the point of galling the stainless- thus running the risk of an improper torque reading. I prefer to use a standard cordless torque rated drill, then the T-handle torque wrench. Torque drills will only tighten to the desired tension then the clutch drive stops it from continued tightening. I hope this answers your question.
@@BGsPlumbingClass great explanation
@@111_23 Thank you.