To all those who falsely claim thermoforming weakens the PVC pipe: ua-cam.com/video/wFMhxzmyZXU/v-deo.html *My Other PVC Tip Videos Can Be Found here: ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html Thank you
File the stop out in the middle of the coupling so it will slid past the end of the pipe line the pipes glue and slide it back so it’s on both pipes easier than heating pipe
@@carlmccoy662 I can assure you it's not an easy task using a file because there is roughly a one-inch space that needs to be reduced. My other video shows an alternate way of doing it.
I appreciate you getting straight to the point. But a much easier method is just to file out the stopper inside the T, then you can slide it fully onto one side, apply the primer and glue, then slide it over both sides. Very easy and no messing with a heat gun.
How in the world do you file that little ledge inside of PVC pipe? I don’t understand how you would file that, and how come they don’t simply make repair couplings for this.
@@FromTheHood2TheWoods The do make repair couplings for some sizes of pipe. I have a woodworking file I used for most of the ledge, and for the last part I wrapped some coarse sandpaper around a dowel rod.
@@jasont7814 OK, when you do, come back and explain to us how you put the primer and glue inside the fitting, if the pipe is already running through the fitting. My feeble logic says you can do one end, but not the other.
@@gregoryt1139 I might be misunderstanding you, but you’re working with two open ends, and you’re only adding one new fitting on the short end of the pvc pipe. I know I didn’t explain that very well.
The compression tee is what I use. Works best, especially if there is ANY water at all dripping through a pipe. If water dripping through a pipe you cannot get it to get very flexible because the evaporating water cools the area to quickly
For years i had to deal with that pipe issue, this is first time iv'e seen it done that way, i'll definitely try your heat gun method next time! Thanks!👍
A very important tip that people leave out is that PVC and CPVC connections to not bond together properly. It has to be a cpvc fitting for cpvc pipe or vice versa. If you don't do this then the pipe will blow out of one end of the fitting (Eventually).
Id say a safer way would be to File the stop out on the inside and use the T like a slip coupling. Heating pvc works but its easy to mess up or damage. Id do it with conduit but not a water line.
In most cases heating the pipe is totally unnecessary dig a little out around the pipes and you can easily flex the pipe upward slip it together very seldom does this result in breaking anything.
👍👍 I’ve used a torch to bend pvc but never a heat gun. they make pvc expanding couplings there a little pricey but they work great especially on bigger water lines
Great video advice! To determine the exact amount to cut out, I suggest marking the fitting on the outside, where the bump stops inside the fitting correlate to the outside of the fitting, (I personally don't do this after decades of working with pvc, so I, and obviously you, can just eyeball it),. Then hold the fitting up against the pipe and transfer the marks to the pipe. Should be perfect. That's for those who've never done this! Edit: you can also use a propane torch, you just have to be conservative and much more careful not to overheat the pvc...
Dude. Thank you. I have been wondering exactly how to know how much pipe needs to go in vs how much you cut off. Your dry fitting then pencil line is so stupidly simple that I'm kicking myself for not thinking of it. I have been guessing and luckily been right in my yard.
Over 30 years in construction…. I own a heat gun which I use mostly for heating pvc conduit instead of wasting money on bends… never once did I stop and think of this brilliant solution. Thanks, now my challenge is remembering it.
I was going crazy yesterday trying to fit in some new 1/2" PVC pipes into some old 3/4" pipes. I had the step down pipes but couldn't get the Ts. in. I have a heat gun so now I am off to the races. Thank you so much! Yay!!!!
I have done PVC repair and you don't have to dig back as far as you said. Your method is the way to go if you can't dig back but I have never run into a situation where I couldn't bend the pipe without heating it.
@@BarryWeaver-pv6cz There's nothing worse than a viewer that posts stupid comments. Full slip PVC couplings are not available at home improvement stores at least when the video was made. The only slip type PVC couplings available were for drain waste and vent PVC. Are you done posting stupid comments?
@@electronicsNmore Are you done posting stupid videos? Who buys plumbing supplies from home improvement stores? Oh right, the same guys that bend PVC instead of doing it right.
@@stevenpowell426 They have O-ring seals that dry up and leak over time(especialy when used with chlorinated water) and movement can cause leaks, what I show is permanent.
@@electronicsNmore over 20 years being a irrigation mechanic for Parks and Rec. and I have NEVER seen a slip fix dry up or leak and I've used them on everything from 1/2 " to 6" main line repairs plus the time you spend heating the pipe I've made my repair and buried. Just my opinion.
Nice video I am a master plumber and just wanted to thank people like you for keeping me in business. When people try stupid stuff like this it makes a fast cheap job into one that cost 10 times as much to do.
Pro tip. ANY contractor bashing on other peoples work while talking themselves up has ZERO confidence in themselves and are compensating for lack of skill. JamesLindsey, you are exactly that and while you think your hiding behind the tital "master plumber" the rest of us can see right through that. When are you guys going to start acting like proffesionals and stop ramming that term down our throughts as though it holds some meaning?
You couldn’t do what he did and call yourself a plumber. That is what a handyman would do. That pipe has now been weakened and could crack and leak. As a plumber you have to do it right or you’ll just be driving around all the time doing callbacks.
Glad I could help. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
The Primer is a weaker form of the actual PVC Glue, it is actually starting the melting process. So to let is cure (dry) is to basically waste the primer. Fortunately you are using small diameter pipe with minimal pressures. If you did that with large diameter pipe you would have a weak joint. The PVC Solvent should be applied when the primer is still wet. You are extending the melting process when you use primer properly and apply the Solvent immediately after the primer. BTW the directions are on the can.
you can buy a "no-stop" tee or union. you can make a "no-stop" tee or union by using a drill or a round file to remove the "stop". this enables the tee or the union to slide all the way onto one pipe. then you slide it over the other pipe. the "stop" is just a raised ring that prevents the tee or union from sliding past tee opening or the midway point respectively. you can buy them. you might have to order them and wait a bit or just take a file or little wheel grinder and remove the "stop". it's easy. it's quick.
Just the idea heating the pipe doesn't weaken it is ridiculous, it's an extrusion formed in linear fashion once heated again it changes the structure and hardens it further making it more prone to stress fracture. Twisting the strands in that fashion makes the problem worse. But what do I know...
@@yougonnaeatthat9889 Unless you've done the extensive testing that I've done on PVC pipes, or know of the manufacturing process for PVC pipes, I suggest you don't comment.
@@electronicsNmore PVC is a thermoplastic that can withstand 140 degrees F. That said, extreme hot and cold temperatures can affect a PVC pipe's structure. I am a Florida state certified plumber, been in the plumbing business for over 35 years.
Excellent, thanks. I would use a torch, but I think it would damage the pipe too much so I think the heat gun is the way to go. I always wondered what the most professional way to accomplish this would be so thanks for this video.
Pure genius! You have saved me several hours of work, because all of the jobs I do like this. I have been digging back 5' or so, in order to curl the pipe back to stab it in. Never thought about heating it. Surprisingly a lot of people dont know about curling back the pipe to stab it and instead, purchase expensive slip collars.
Brilliant idea much easier I've unfortunately used my strength to force it in place I'll give this idea ago next time I perform retic repairs thank you 👍
Interesting idea I have never tried. I would also add if this ends up not working, you can always cut out the heated portion and add a slip to fit or slip joint instead.
In this example, there appears to be room to pull the pipe up and slip it in. This is still a good technique to know and I appreciate learning it through your video.
You're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thank you ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
Cool trick, without any brains of my dad he couldnt figure out how to get a T in a pipe in the ground or a Coupling, Finally after trying and failing to glue right someone told us a Compression union was all we needed. Saved having to glue anything, especially when water kept seeping into the glue joint
Yes, I know all about those. What I don't like about them is that they have o-ring seals that can dry out over time especially when used with chlorinated water supplies. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore the Oring inside the new slips are stronger chemicalized rubber now. Can last over 20 years especially if you only using a 1 inch Valve. I fix 3 inch Main lines and 3 inch valves so we use all kinds of things . We prefer Pressure fitting LD and smith Blair’s . Thanks for the video man I learn something new everyday
hopefully the pipe has enough wall thickness to resist the water pressure since heating and bending the pipe may thin the wall thickness which may stay thinned after cooling. May want to bend the pipe on the side where it would be easier to excavate in case of pipe failure.
I never heard of this method but I still would not attempt it because you could compromise the PVC. The proper way to do it is to buy a union. If you do not know what those are I recommend looking into them because they are very good.
Heating(Thermoforming) the PVC pipe will not compromise the PVC. I suggest you look up the manufacturing process, and watch my video below. ua-cam.com/video/wFMhxzmyZXU/v-deo.html
Two things, one you did refer to the PVC primer as cleaner yet it's real point of using it is to soften that PVC so the cement will weld them together better, now I do use the primer to clean the pipe because I never buy the PVC cleaner & that seems to be OK for me. Now the other thing is the PVC primer really does not do it's job once it's been dried out because the PVC where the primer was placed will just re-harden if it drys out. Try it, put the primer on the pipe then take your fingernail & scrape it, it will dig in some & take off a little of the PVC, then let it dry out & do the same thing. If you doubt what I'm saying just read the instructions, it says not to let the primer dry & to put the cement on & put the pipe together asap. So I would reapply the primer right after heating up the PVC. And I would take just a little more time & dig out the ditch just a little (or a lot) more, but I get it maybe you don't want to dig up the grass, & mess up the yard so much. And one more thought is, because the primer softens that PVC don't get a puddle of it inside that pipe it can soften the pipe through & through over time, I've seen this happen & I had to dig it up & the pipe was bulged out, & leaking. so don't over do it, & if you think you did run some water through it at a low pressure just to wash out the primer. Before there was primer you would rub the cement around & around the pipe to help it soften the pipe before putting it together. I have made slip couplings but they are a little hard to use because the cement just might stick the coupling to the pipe before you get the coupling where you want it to be, so you have to use extra cement & it's kind of messy, but they do work.😁
You don't have to use the heat gun if you measure the exact cut on the main pipe (you need 2 cuts). To do so, place your fitting on the main pipe and mark the amount of the main pipe which has to go inside of the fitting. And make 2 cuts. One on each side of the main pipe. Deburr, clean, prime and glue both ends at the same time and place your fitting in. You're done. I don't like to apply so much heat to pvc since it may alter the integrity of the pipe.
I've used the heat gun on the plumbing for my geothermal unit. I had to make custom bends to replace a cobbled up mess of angle fittings. Watch the heat, make the bends using a generous radius, looks very nice and made it easy to remove the unit if needed.
@@wolemai Absolutely not correct. Heating above 140° F affects the pipe wall integrity, though it may not become apparent until several years later. Don't take my word for it - - ask JM Eagle, Lincoln Plastics, Spears, Charlotte Pipe, etc.
All you have to do is file down the internal stops on the inside of the tee so it becomes a slip tee. Mark the pipes for the correct insertion depth of the tee with a marker on both pipes. Use pipe cleaner on the tee and two ends of the pipe. Put the glue both ends of the pipe and the tee. Pull up on the most movable section of pipe slip the tee onto the pipe, immediately slide the new slip tee onto the other side of the pipe to insertion mark and make your final position adjustment.
Painful? Tell that to my neighbor that used the method shown on a 1" PVC line that was located in a spot where he only had about a foot of space to tap in. He was ecstatic over how well it worked.
Now if we're talking about waste and referring to drain pipes then you can use PVC underground aswell as cast iron why are you using PVC for a waterline give me one good reason.
@@TheNagaguyI hate that purple mess. I always use clear primer. The reason for the purple is so that the plumbing inspector can know that primer was used. If you are DIY and there is no inspector, clear is good.
Great idea. I would rather heat both pipes. You just need some flexibility in both pipes to lift and join. There should be minimal deformation. I did one yesterday just without the heatgun. With the heatgun it will require less effort.
I wish I had saw this video before New Years Eve this year when I had a water emergency and no stores were open. Would have saved me a lot of time and aggravatrip! 😂 Great tip!
Thanks for taking time on video never heated a pipe before very interesting i always use repair coupling to make something like that work dresser coupling gd job looks good
Awesome You absolutely do know how to do the correctly That's good cuz I was waiting for it but yeah make the whole little bit bigger and it'll be a whole lot easier for sure And then after you apply your primer whether it's purple or not you need to apply the glue and put the fitting on there within 15 seconds So that's a thing.
I bend schedule 80 PVC [Yellowmine] 6" by capping the ends and heating the section of bend with a weed torch. The increase in internal pressure means no wall collapse while bending. Perfect bends every time.
To all those who falsely claim thermoforming weakens the PVC pipe:
ua-cam.com/video/wFMhxzmyZXU/v-deo.html
*My Other PVC Tip Videos Can Be Found here:
ua-cam.com/play/PLQ6IOhUBblU10Q846UXdxMnh8S_eul0UT.html
Thank you
Heat applied work fine with schedule 20, not so much with schedule 40.
@@robkocol5664 Works perfectly with sch40.
I was concerned about this. Thank you.
1 in. CPVC-CTS All Slip Tee Fitting
@@robkocol5664 You mean 200.
File the stop out in the middle of the coupling so it will slid past the end of the pipe line the pipes glue and slide it back so it’s on both pipes easier than heating pipe
I guess you've seen my other video
Way better
@@carlmccoy662 I can assure you it's not an easy task using a file because there is roughly a one-inch space that needs to be reduced. My other video shows an alternate way of doing it.
@@electronicsNmore A flush trim router, would take care of the stop. A repair coupling would solve the problem too, but would need 2 cuts in the pipe
Filing would be quite a job. The heating seems easier. But. Not a bad alternative. 👌
Thank you for getting right to the point instead of a long-winded introduction. I appreciate the information.
I appreciate you getting straight to the point. But a much easier method is just to file out the stopper inside the T, then you can slide it fully onto one side, apply the primer and glue, then slide it over both sides. Very easy and no messing with a heat gun.
How in the world do you file that little ledge inside of PVC pipe? I don’t understand how you would file that, and how come they don’t simply make repair couplings for this.
@@FromTheHood2TheWoods The do make repair couplings for some sizes of pipe. I have a woodworking file I used for most of the ledge, and for the last part I wrapped some coarse sandpaper around a dowel rod.
I never would’ve thought of that. I usually buy one of those extenders. I’ll try your method.
@@jasont7814 OK, when you do, come back and explain to us how you put the primer and glue inside the fitting, if the pipe is already running through the fitting. My feeble logic says you can do one end, but not the other.
@@gregoryt1139 I might be misunderstanding you, but you’re working with two open ends, and you’re only adding one new fitting on the short end of the pvc pipe. I know I didn’t explain that very well.
Good, straight to the point video without a bunch of obnoxious music, thank you!
Thanx for touching on the subject of obnoxious "music" that is so prevalent here on the Tube and which only serves to make said videos unwatchable.
Slick trick going to remember this one.
I've never thought of this. I've always used a slip coupling. Will nave to try this next time. Thanks for the tip!
Stick to what you now.
Good tip on filing stops, can also use a compression tee available at most hardware stores
The compression tee is what I use. Works best, especially if there is ANY water at all dripping through a pipe. If water dripping through a pipe you cannot get it to get very flexible because the evaporating water cools the area to quickly
For years i had to deal with that pipe issue, this is first time iv'e seen it done that way, i'll definitely try your heat gun method next time! Thanks!👍
You're welcome!
A very important tip that people leave out is that PVC and CPVC connections to not bond together properly. It has to be a cpvc fitting for cpvc pipe or vice versa. If you don't do this then the pipe will blow out of one end of the fitting (Eventually).
I also appreciate the straight to the point instructions.
I’m a plumber and never thought of that, nice.
Use compress union is much easier .
dont do this hack job BS. get the proper fittings
Id say a safer way would be to File the stop out on the inside and use the T like a slip coupling. Heating pvc works but its easy to mess up or damage. Id do it with conduit but not a water line.
In most cases heating the pipe is totally unnecessary dig a little out around the pipes and you can easily flex the pipe upward slip it together very seldom does this result in breaking anything.
This video is for the cases where you can't dig. Did you miss that part?
👍👍 I’ve used a torch to bend pvc but never a heat gun. they make pvc expanding couplings there a little pricey but they work great especially on bigger water lines
Huge time-saving tip! Thank you for yet another fantastic video!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching
Project farm in the house woop woop!!
@djaa7 calm down dude 😂
Project farm what’s up man!
We’re gonna test this dudes plumbing tricks or what?
We almost had a comparison for PVC binders and primers..... That'd be REAL BANGER. j/k
Great video advice! To determine the exact amount to cut out, I suggest marking the fitting on the outside, where the bump stops inside the fitting correlate to the outside of the fitting, (I personally don't do this after decades of working with pvc, so I, and obviously you, can just eyeball it),. Then hold the fitting up against the pipe and transfer the marks to the pipe. Should be perfect. That's for those who've never done this!
Edit: you can also use a propane torch, you just have to be conservative and much more careful not to overheat the pvc...
Yes, that will make the job easier. Glad you liked the video!
Dude. Thank you. I have been wondering exactly how to know how much pipe needs to go in vs how much you cut off. Your dry fitting then pencil line is so stupidly simple that I'm kicking myself for not thinking of it. I have been guessing and luckily been right in my yard.
Over 30 years in construction…. I own a heat gun which I use mostly for heating pvc conduit instead of wasting money on bends… never once did I stop and think of this brilliant solution. Thanks, now my challenge is remembering it.
Thank you for teaching people this. Sincerely, plumbers everywhere.
no this is stupid. real plumbers dont do this hack shit on peoples homes. keep up the good DIY hack jobs you do
I was going crazy yesterday trying to fit in some new 1/2" PVC pipes into some old 3/4" pipes. I had the step down pipes but couldn't get the Ts. in. I have a heat gun so now I am off to the races. Thank you so much! Yay!!!!
Wow, wish I saw this years ago, saved me a lot of digging and agnst over the years 😎. Good stuff, thanks!
I have done PVC repair and you don't have to dig back as far as you said. Your method is the way to go if you can't dig back but I have never run into a situation where I couldn't bend the pipe without heating it.
I just dig the hole larger and lift the pipe creating a bigger spread between the ends. It's not that difficult.
It's probably much easier, better and faster than this way shown.
You are also the person that moves one rock at a time instead of using the wheel barrow.
What if you don’t have a heat gun
I wish i new this years ago, would have saved me a lot of digging
Another person who doesn't know about slip couplers. This was about the silliest thing I have ever seen!
@@BarryWeaver-pv6cz There's nothing worse than a viewer that posts stupid comments. Full slip PVC couplings are not available at home improvement stores at least when the video was made. The only slip type PVC couplings available were for drain waste and vent PVC. Are you done posting stupid comments?
@@electronicsNmore Are you done posting stupid videos? Who buys plumbing supplies from home improvement stores? Oh right, the same guys that bend PVC instead of doing it right.
I agree with berry weaver slip fix couplers were available over 20 years ago at your local hardware store .
@@stevenpowell426 They have O-ring seals that dry up and leak over time(especialy when used with chlorinated water) and movement can cause leaks, what I show is permanent.
@@electronicsNmore over 20 years being a irrigation mechanic for Parks and Rec. and I have NEVER seen a slip fix dry up or leak and I've used them on everything from 1/2 " to 6" main line repairs plus the time you spend heating the pipe I've made my repair and buried. Just my opinion.
A slip coupling works or just dig back a little further on both pipes. Then you can pull them up and slide together 👍💯🇺🇸
Wow. Great tip. I wouldn't have thought of using heat. Thanks
Nice video I am a master plumber and just wanted to thank people like you for keeping me in business. When people try stupid stuff like this it makes a fast cheap job into one that cost 10 times as much to do.
I am not a master plumber, but appreciate your comment. Following the instructions on this video could make for a bad day.
Master Plummer doesn't equal Engineer cuh
@@m.v.d.4064bro that type of PVC isn’t meant to be heated like that
Pro tip. ANY contractor bashing on other peoples work while talking themselves up has ZERO confidence in themselves and are compensating for lack of skill. JamesLindsey, you are exactly that and while you think your hiding behind the tital "master plumber" the rest of us can see right through that. When are you guys going to start acting like proffesionals and stop ramming that term down our throughts as though it holds some meaning?
You couldn’t do what he did and call yourself a plumber. That is what a handyman would do. That pipe has now been weakened and could crack and leak. As a plumber you have to do it right or you’ll just be driving around all the time doing callbacks.
wow I have NEVER seen someone heat a PVC pipe..incredible!
Well done. Right to the point, clearly narrated and demonstrated.
Best trick i have seen in a year. Thank you.
Hey bro I like that you get straight to the point.
Good video.
Yea... nicely done. Would have saved me some digging a couple years ago. I guess timing is everything.
Glad I could help. Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
The Primer is a weaker form of the actual PVC Glue, it is actually starting the melting process. So to let is cure (dry) is to basically waste the primer. Fortunately you are using small diameter pipe with minimal pressures. If you did that with large diameter pipe you would have a weak joint. The PVC Solvent should be applied when the primer is still wet. You are extending the melting process when you use primer properly and apply the Solvent immediately after the primer. BTW the directions are on the can.
I guess you haven't seen my pvc cement testing video. I know what the can says.
ua-cam.com/video/1o4E2pdEv-s/v-deo.html
I've been using the 4 elbow method, I will try this next time.
you can buy a "no-stop" tee or union. you can make a "no-stop" tee or union by using a drill or a round file to remove the "stop".
this enables the tee or the union to slide all the way onto one pipe. then you slide it over the other pipe. the "stop" is just a raised ring
that prevents the tee or union from sliding past tee opening or the midway point respectively. you can buy them. you might have to order them and wait a bit or just take a file or little wheel grinder and remove the "stop". it's easy. it's quick.
They do not sell a full slip PVC tee, as for your other idea, I have videos made from a while back.
@@electronicsNmore
Full slip not necessary. Only needs one side slip.
Just the idea heating the pipe doesn't weaken it is ridiculous, it's an extrusion formed in linear fashion once heated again it changes the structure and hardens it further making it more prone to stress fracture. Twisting the strands in that fashion makes the problem worse. But what do I know...
@@yougonnaeatthat9889 Unless you've done the extensive testing that I've done on PVC pipes, or know of the manufacturing process for PVC pipes, I suggest you don't comment.
@@electronicsNmore PVC is a thermoplastic that can withstand 140 degrees F. That said, extreme hot and cold temperatures can affect a PVC pipe's structure. I am a Florida state certified plumber, been in the plumbing business for over 35 years.
Excellent, thanks. I would use a torch, but I think it would damage the pipe too much so I think the heat gun is the way to go. I always wondered what the most professional way to accomplish this would be so thanks for this video.
why not glue the tee and use a dressor? the way he did it is the least expensive BUT over/under heat and you have a problem?
Thank you very much!!! you made our lives much easier with your magic trick!
Glad to hear that!
Pure genius! You have saved me several hours of work, because all of the jobs I do like this. I have been digging back 5' or so, in order to curl the pipe back to stab it in. Never thought about heating it. Surprisingly a lot of people dont know about curling back the pipe to stab it and instead, purchase expensive slip collars.
expensive slip couplings ? Your kidding right ?
@@jamesb1184 10 or 15 dollars they cost vs 50 cents for a coupling.
Brilliant idea much easier I've unfortunately used my strength to force it in place I'll give this idea ago next time I perform retic repairs thank you 👍
Interesting idea I have never tried. I would also add if this ends up not working, you can always cut out the heated portion and add a slip to fit or slip joint instead.
Why not use the slip joint tee to begin with?
Yup you don't need a heat gun.@@jimclark6256
In this example, there appears to be room to pull the pipe up and slip it in. This is still a good technique to know and I appreciate learning it through your video.
Awesome! A pvc connection with a happy ending👍🏽
Great craftsmanship my friend!
Thank you for making it simple and easy.
You're welcome! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thank you
ua-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
There’s a $7 bendable coupler at Lowe’s/Home Depot for this too, works great.
Yeah but it can't be used for pottable water.
Also, I don't think it's for constant pressure. Check documentation if trying the HD variety!
Thats not a T-Fitting.
Watch band 7.00 if you don't have to?
Old dog learns new trick, thank you.
Great to hear Dave! Be sure to share the video link with others. Thank you
Cool trick, without any brains of my dad he couldnt figure out how to get a T in a pipe in the ground or a Coupling, Finally after trying and failing to glue right someone told us a Compression union was all we needed. Saved having to glue anything, especially when water kept seeping into the glue joint
There is a fitting available called slip fix. I have used many of them. Very simple to use. But the heat gun is a good idea.
Yes, I know all about those. What I don't like about them is that they have o-ring seals that can dry out over time especially when used with chlorinated water supplies. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore the Oring inside the new slips are stronger chemicalized rubber now. Can last over 20 years especially if you only using a 1 inch Valve. I fix 3 inch Main lines and 3 inch valves so we use all kinds of things . We prefer Pressure fitting LD and smith Blair’s . Thanks for the video man I learn something new everyday
I've done this a few times over the years. No, it does NOT weaken the pipe in any way.
Don't they make slip couplings or fittings for the repair?? Thanks for a good video.
They don't sell full slip couplings for SCH40 pressure, only DWV. I show a couple other solutions on my channel. Glad you liked the video.
Great tip thank you so much for sharing this important information
How did I not know this was a thing! Amazing info thank you
Happy to help!
Wait, how were you able to get it to twist? I understand the bending up or down but to put a twist?
While bending you also give the pipe a slight back twist.
hopefully the pipe has enough wall thickness to resist the water pressure since heating and bending the pipe may thin the wall thickness which may stay thinned after cooling. May want to bend the pipe on the side where it would be easier to excavate in case of pipe failure.
Yawn
This was so satisfying to watch.
I never heard of this method but I still would not attempt it because you could compromise the PVC. The proper way to do it is to buy a union. If you do not know what those are I recommend looking into them because they are very good.
Heating(Thermoforming) the PVC pipe will not compromise the PVC. I suggest you look up the manufacturing process, and watch my video below.
ua-cam.com/video/wFMhxzmyZXU/v-deo.html
And putting in a union wrong could also compromise the job. It's your choice to use the right amount of heat.
I've done this, and it works well. Good job..!
Nice trick. Never was much at laying pipe :(
@@KreemieNewgattShe specializes in slip couplings.
You are a legend. Just saved me a tonne of time & effort. Thank you!
Slip tee is the way to go to avoid not having a heat gun or messing with it.
If you don't have a heat gun on hand, then a compression slip tee is a good option.
You just showed me how to create fire for the fist time. Wow great vid
Two things, one you did refer to the PVC primer as cleaner yet it's real point of using it is to soften that PVC so the cement will weld them together better, now I do use the primer to clean the pipe because I never buy the PVC cleaner & that seems to be OK for me. Now the other thing is the PVC primer really does not do it's job once it's been dried out because the PVC where the primer was placed will just re-harden if it drys out. Try it, put the primer on the pipe then take your fingernail & scrape it, it will dig in some & take off a little of the PVC, then let it dry out & do the same thing. If you doubt what I'm saying just read the instructions, it says not to let the primer dry & to put the cement on & put the pipe together asap. So I would reapply the primer right after heating up the PVC. And I would take just a little more time & dig out the ditch just a little (or a lot) more, but I get it maybe you don't want to dig up the grass, & mess up the yard so much. And one more thought is, because the primer softens that PVC don't get a puddle of it inside that pipe it can soften the pipe through & through over time, I've seen this happen & I had to dig it up & the pipe was bulged out, & leaking. so don't over do it, & if you think you did run some water through it at a low pressure just to wash out the primer. Before there was primer you would rub the cement around & around the pipe to help it soften the pipe before putting it together. I have made slip couplings but they are a little hard to use because the cement just might stick the coupling to the pipe before you get the coupling where you want it to be, so you have to use extra cement & it's kind of messy, but they do work.😁
Good tip. Had to do 5 breaks in the house i moved into. This method surely would have made things easier but now i knownfor future breaks.
You don't have to use the heat gun if you measure the exact cut on the main pipe (you need 2 cuts). To do so, place your fitting on the main pipe and mark the amount of the main pipe which has to go inside of the fitting. And make 2 cuts. One on each side of the main pipe. Deburr, clean, prime and glue both ends at the same time and place your fitting in. You're done. I don't like to apply so much heat to pvc since it may alter the integrity of the pipe.
Read his top comment where he says heating does NOT weaken it.
I've used the heat gun on the plumbing for my geothermal unit. I had to make custom bends to replace a cobbled up mess of angle fittings. Watch the heat, make the bends using a generous radius, looks very nice and made it easy to remove the unit if needed.
The PVC pipe is extruded from molten PVC. re-heating it won't do a bit of harm.
@@wolemai Absolutely not correct. Heating above 140° F affects the pipe wall integrity, though it may not become apparent until several years later. Don't take my word for it - - ask JM Eagle, Lincoln Plastics, Spears, Charlotte Pipe, etc.
Where were you 3 years ago!! Great tip!
All you have to do is file down the internal stops on the inside of the tee so it becomes a slip tee. Mark the pipes for the correct insertion depth of the tee with a marker on both pipes. Use pipe cleaner on the tee and two ends of the pipe. Put the glue both ends of the pipe and the tee. Pull up on the most movable section of pipe slip the tee onto the pipe, immediately slide the new slip tee onto the other side of the pipe to insertion mark and make your final position adjustment.
Excellent method !!! Wonderful.
Thanks! I've always wondered how I would do that...
Really? You never heard of a slip fix? So, in the middle of nowhere you just plug in a heat gun lol. Amusing.
Cordless heat gun.
I have not started this video just yet, but I'm gaining your brilliant idea involved 4x 90s or with 45 degree combos ?
This was painful to watch
Painful? Tell that to my neighbor that used the method shown on a 1" PVC line that was located in a spot where he only had about a foot of space to tap in. He was ecstatic over how well it worked.
Especially bc you're not suppose to ever run water lines in PVC only copper or Pex it's against code (depending where u live)
Now if we're talking about waste and referring to drain pipes then you can use PVC underground aswell as cast iron why are you using PVC for a waterline give me one good reason.
@@JUNEBUGLLC I can assure you it's not against code in Florida, nor is it against code in many other areas.
@@JUNEBUGLLC Why? Because in Florida that's what you use. LOL Anymore ridiculous questions?
LOL, Wow! Awesome.
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to check out my PVC tips video playlist as well and share. Thank you
Wow...i will definitely keep this in mind..
For a small investment buy a slip coupling or telescoping coupling.
Magic, I love this, had problems so many times in connection with this.. thanks so much
You're welcome John
I would also add that here in the Philippines I've never seen pipe cleaner or blue solvent, it's all clear.. I manage though 😊😊😊
@@TheNagaguyI hate that purple mess. I always use clear primer. The reason for the purple is so that the plumbing inspector can know that primer was used. If you are DIY and there is no inspector, clear is good.
Great video, whis I knew this last summer.
Plumbers would build a “bridge” using 4- 90 degree elbows. You don’t compromise the pipe that way. But for irrigation this would do.
The only drawback is the water hitting a wall and changing direction 4 times, which increases friction loss.
@@electronicsNmore true, it does.
No plumber will waste his time on that.
I started to use saddle fittings, so far, so good.
Interesting.
PR200 may flexible, unlike Schedule40.
Good tip!
Great idea. I would rather heat both pipes. You just need some flexibility in both pipes to lift and join. There should be minimal deformation. I did one yesterday just without the heatgun. With the heatgun it will require less effort.
I wish I had saw this video before New Years Eve this year when I had a water emergency and no stores were open. Would have saved me a lot of time and aggravatrip! 😂 Great tip!
Good idea! I thought I knew all the tricks. Especially helpful as union's are up 35% from a year ago.
Thanks for taking time on video never heated a pipe before very interesting i always use repair coupling to make something like that work dresser coupling gd job looks good
Awesome You absolutely do know how to do the correctly That's good cuz I was waiting for it but yeah make the whole little bit bigger and it'll be a whole lot easier for sure And then after you apply your primer whether it's purple or not you need to apply the glue and put the fitting on there within 15 seconds So that's a thing.
No you don't. Manufacturer says within 5 minutes.
Using a quick fix makes your job so much easier and faster
I thought I was the only one that used PVC pipe warm and limp for odd jobs 👍😎✊
That was good, doesn't matter which do it before or after. Nice work.
The manufacturers of PVC pipe recommends chamfering the pipe end or else the sharp edge will scrape away the softened material as well as the glue.
About 99% of plumbers always do that..
Everyone tells of a better way…lol…wonderful job brother!!
THAT WAS GREAT never thought about that
I bend schedule 80 PVC [Yellowmine] 6" by capping the ends and heating the section of bend with a weed torch. The increase in internal pressure means no wall collapse while bending. Perfect bends every time.
Great Tip - thanks for sharing.
A repair coupling inline with the Tee would be my first choice, this would be second. Grinding out a Tee is nonsense.
Wow, what a great idea. I have always had to dig up about 4 to 5 ft of pipe to slip the pipe in. Does that also work for schedule 40 plastic pipe?
Yes, sch40 was used in this video.
I've just used the end of the sch 40 bells for a slip fix and add a T but that's the fun part of this kinda work.
From the end of coupling to the stop is 3/4” , cut 1.5” off pipe for perfect fit
Good demo... I could have used that a few years ago.
Thanks for watching john!
4 ninety trick has always worked for me.
Does this method fatigue the pvc? Pressure wise that is?
No, he made a video about that years ago
Thanks for the info, I want to add a line to my back yard and was thinking how am I going to tap into the line to the house, now I know. 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Bravo. Well done sir. Well done
Great video if you're a plumber and want more business.