With 50+ years experience, I am a staunch convert to wet tumbling. There is minimally more work involved (drying) and the results leave no doubt about the cleanliness of your brass. The end result is a superior product, sure dirty brass still shoots okay, but for just a little more work, they are pretty !!!!!
I personally use wet tumbling. Just pour water, citric acid and some soap in a rotating barrel. The acid eats the carbon build up even in the primer pocket but does not consume any significant metal. Then you only need to dry them. You can literally do pounds of brass at once.
I've loaded a couple thousand at once into an old pillow case and ran them through my clothes washer. I tried it several times. It's hell on your pillow case which may or may not survive, but surprisingly it does a really good job. Didn't damage my washer at all, but I ruined several old pillow cases. Decided to get a wet tumbler after that. I like dawn dishsoap and lemi-shine and a touch of car wash and wax.
Same, but I wash first to remove dirt, dust and debris so I don't damage my dies or get stuck cases. Resize, de-prime and wash again to remove lube and to clean the primer pocket. Then, reload.
My exact routine except I don't decap first. I rinse after cleaning, spin the cleaned cartridges then just let them dry in the sun. I have lots of that. When I look at how dirty the water is and the settled crap on the bottom of the bucket it tells me I am saving wear on my equipment. But, to each his own.
The beauty of reloading is that as long as you stay within the safety rules of reloading, there is no wrong answer or wrong way to do things. I enjoy learning from others about reloading. As for me: I wet tumble and I am OCD for cleanliness :)
I have been reloading for over 40 years. I prefer to dry tumble brass before reloading. I think it is easier to resize without the debris on the case from firing. I do not de-cap before tumbling as I prefer not to get media in the flash hole. When I have to trim the brass I also clean the primer pockets as well. If the brass becomes very dull, I do occasionally polish the cases with dry media and a polishing compound. It makes them look "factory". Keep the videos coming! I enjoy them a lot.
I wet tumble with stainless steel pins. Loading is a hobby for me (retired) and I enjoy trying to achieve perfection. I only shoot about a hundred rounds a week so it’s not really an issue. I enjoy the channel.
I've been reloading for 25+ years and have never owned a tumbler. I shoot on average 2500 rounds of center fire a year. Still using the same dies as 25+ years ago. No unusual wear on the dies. I do however wash brass with soapy water that has been picked up off the ground. But indoor brass never gets washed or tumbled.
OK.. so.. I look at cleaning as just a step in the brass prep process. I have come to believe that brass prep is the most important and overlooked step in the reloading process (especially for bottleneck rifle cartridges). The real key here is "process". Its important to have a process and do it the same way each time. For every batch of what ever its decap and size, wet clean with steel pins, dry, inspect and trim.. then load. How sparkly they are doesn't matter, but uniformity in sizing, length, primer seating, charging and OAL makes for very consistent results when the unloading process occurs. Thanks for these videos you guys do. I dig them.
54+ years reloading. Clean all brass before loading. I used to use a dry media case tumbler. I now use a Frankfort Arsenal steel pin and water tumbler. This system makes brass as clean as new. Water, steel pins, Dawn and Lemi-Shine.
Ive tried most all ways if cleaning brass, wet,ultrasonic,tumble, ect… i found for my needs dry walnut or corn cob media for best results, and always decap after cleaning!
I decap then wet tumble in my harbor freight double tumbler. Takes twenty minutes to do and makes working on a brass for reloading much nicer since there's zero dirt and carbon and no dry media powders. EDIT : I also use stainless steel pins, they last for years. I drain the tumbler through one of those reusable coffee filters to catch the pins. Bought five pounds of pins almost five years ago and am still using the original amount needed for each tumbler with the rest stored away in the closet. Will be years before I need to get another five pound bag. A bottle of dawn or even generic dawn and a pack of citrus cleaner lasts a long time and can be used to do dishes if needed, cheaper than corn cob media and you don't have to worry about lead dust in the air which most don't think about when dry tumbling. That's my personal preference, to each their own in how or if they clean brass.
I do exactly the same thing and the Harbor Freight tumbler is great. I have forced hot air in my home and in the winter I put them on top of the vents, don't laugh works great !! I do notice though to always check no pins left in cases.
Dang! that is a great idea with the coffee filters. I use the same HGT tumbler, but with the stainless steel chips. Those things are a real bugger to keep corralled, thanks for the tip.
For the sake of keeping your dies clean and ease of reloading, I always clean. I couldn’t imagine lubing up a dirty 223 and running it through a resizing die.
I switched over to pin tumbling with a harbor freight rock tumbler. $35 for double tumbler and about 15 bucks for pins. Brass comes out better than new after 4 hours.. Inside and out. Same with primer pockets. I just use a teaspoon of dish washing liquid and a tablespoon of lemishine. I’ve loaded and ladder tested without cleaning over the decades. Just like it clean when I load up hunting ammo that could sit for a decade or more before I use it all. If not it gets oxidized and super tarnished from already being dirty.
It takes one hour and a half maximum to clean them if you slap it in an ultrasonic then put it in a brass dryer. It is so easy and doesn’t ruin your dies.
I usw wet tumbling with steel pins. Half a teaspoon of citric acid and a squirt of dishwashing soap for ~2 pounds of brass. I do decap all cases with a universal decapping die in a lee APP press before cleaning. (I don't like all the dirt from decapping in my reloading press, that is why i bought the APP) I also anneal my rifle cases (except 223rem) before cleaning
I dry tumble before putting the cases through the sizing die. I use fine corn cob. I also tumble a second time after running the brass through the sizing die to remove all traces of sizing lubricant and it also cleans the prime pockets.
Great Video!! I always tumble in walnut media just to clean any junk off the brass. I ruined a 9mm die running a dirty brass into it. Every brass after that came out scratched - time for a new carbide die! I have found that I got too frustrated having to punch the media out of the flash hole so I tumble before I deprime. Been playing with this for over 40 years and I think I am finally getting the hang of it!!
I am from up North. NY When Winter comes my shooting cuts way back. Thats when I reload. That being said maybe I have a little OCO. The first thing I do is get all my fired brass together buy Cal. and start wet tumbling them with just water and dawn dish soap. I then heat the brass up with a heat gun for a few minutes and let stand overnight. My next process is to resize and decap & bello case mouths. My next process is to wet retumble with water, stainless, dawn soap and lemonshine water softener. When I get done with this it would be hard to distinguish my used brass from new unfired brass. Being that I am retired makes a big difference. A few years back I put all my Progressive reloading presses on my back shelf and started using a single stage press. Reloading to me is almost another hobby and very relaxing. I have been doing this for over 55 years and yes all my reloads look like new factory loads. Its just all about self satisfaction.
I always clean my brass I will use Ultrasonic or dry tumble. Most range brass I will sonic clean then reload. Range brass can be really nasty at times. If it is my brass then I will dry tumble and always remove primer first.
I’m somewhat new to reloading so I jumped right into wet-pin tumbling and love it. For me it’s not about clean or dirty-both will fire if done right, but I find it much easier to inspect cases if clean. I’m in no hurry also, so letting them air dry was ok but have recently purchased a Frankford Arsenal “dehydrator”. An hour tumbling and an hour drying make some nice looking cases to work with..
Same, but at times I have loaded my wet brass onto and metal pizza pan with tiny holes all over the thing and run them in the oven @ ~200 degrees +/- until dry. If I'm in a hurry or if it's winter and I want to be sure they are dry.
I shoot blackpowder 45-70 cartridges and it does tend to build up burnt residue but very minimal. I can see as an example that if you shoot that same brass over and over without cleaning you may be changing your pressure of that cartridge due to the buildup.
I have one of those vibrating cleaners...I use it, I like my brass kind of shiny. But then I don't shoot so much that it's a huge effort to examine all my deprimed brass for flash hole blockages, or to use a primer hole cleaning gadget [usually while watching TV]. A good Brownell's video might be a long-form piece on reloading best practices. Nobody ever taught me how to reload...I just read instructions and did what felt right. I never thought about whether brass needed to be cleaned at all, how much or why.
My grandfather taught me to reload as a young boy 55 years ago we never tumbled any brass or even heard of it. However I got back into reloading after retiring about 5 years ago and I do dry tumble now but keep it real simple. Not sure if see any difference but the ammo looks much nicer.
Beautiful design and presentation ! My motivation - you said it - clean brass is easier to load. And TANSTAAFL: I use THAT rotary tumbler with steel pins [Thumler Tumbler with the double speed motor]. Woolite is better than Dawn - I've had black residue on the brass from Dawn - Woolite took care of that. When done tumbling (oh, and it is NOISY - have put out back or in the garage) when dumping the tumbler contents, there are visible brass particles. This means necessarily, the cleaning process wears on the brass. Perhaps the effect is far less than the flex and eventual metal fatigue of repeated firings. With tempering, perhaps the brass would last long enough for the tumbling wear to have an appreciable effect. I think I'm old enough, and have enough brass on hand, that I will not be able to reload my brass enough to matter. As they say, "Too late smart; too soon old."
Hello from Oklahoma! Good Video! I get something from each of your videos. If I'm loading ammo for long term storage, I clean it real good. If it's range brass, I wash it tumble it, maybe 20 min. and clean the primer pocket. By range brass I mean brass I use at the range. Thanks for all U do! Go Bless!
Wet tumble on the cheap. The most expensive item on my rig is the stainless media pins. Decap before as to reduce emulsified mercury fulminate exposure. The amount of sludge coming off makes me tumble a second time (10 minutes) with filtered water. But my whole process allows to set a timer and walk away, spending less than 15 minutes physically with the brass. Watch out for hard water and too much citric acid. Both will result in spotty brass and possible leeching of the softer metals.
Always cleaned my brass (vibratory for ages). Started using a wet tumbler more recently (no pins, Brass Juice works insanely well without pins) and like how it comes out. Sometimes I've run the rounds through the vibratory after reloading, but not always. Really depends on the projectile I'm using. If plated/jacketed, then I don't. IMO, it's easier to find your brass if it's cleaner than what's also on the ground.
so can you use a wet tumbler without pins? only a cleaning solution? like detergent and lemi shine? i would like to skip the step of shaking pins out of cases
Good info...I myself don't deprime until after like Steve. And I like using dry as well. To me it works and is a little more affordable. If your not careful you can make reloading unaffordable real quick.
Seems like you need to deprime first IF you are using a wet tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner. Lets water out more easily. I usually use dry media and deprime after.
I used to clean primer pockets until I got a Dillon 550. Stops the whole cadence of a semi progressive. Found out I didn't need a clean pocket whether auto pistol, revolver or centerfire rifle. If I have a small batch to work up an accuracy load I'll clean the pocket.
I ALWAYS de-prime *before* cleaning the cases. I've used dry media and wet cleaning and find wet cleaning WAY better. Cases come out looking like brand new. Been reloading since 1981 and figure that if something is worth doing it's worth doing as best I can. Others can do as pleases them.
I run my dirty brass in a wet tumbler with Lemi-Shine or Dawn dish soap and stainless-steel media to clean it up for resize and decap. Once cleaned, I lubricate w/alcohol and Lanolin, run em' through the press (resize) and clean them once again when finished to remove sticky lube and to clean the primer pockets now that they've been de-primed with dish soap and Lemi-shine detergent booster which is a spot remover for dishes and it makes it bright and shinney. After all that I prime and load. It's probably a bit much but I like my ammo neat, clean and shinney brass.
When i started reloading several years ago it was with a dry tumbler, the dust and lead particulates made me look elsewhere. Bought the wet tumbler with steel pins, it was worth the extra work to have shiny new brass. Recently i started cleaning in the wet tumbler with no pins, a lot easier and plenty clean enough. I’m a little OCD so my need for extra shiny makes me go overboard sometimes but i’ve found i don’t need the pins, saves time and energy and they’re shiny enough. Good video guys.
I used to dry tumble with corncob media. I started wet tumbling a couple years ago. Now the dry tumbler is used to remove the case lube after loading. I got some really cruddy range brass that was starting to turn green and just for the heck of it I wet tumbled with SS pins, Dawn soap and Lemi Shine. I could not believe how clean the brass came out, like new. Wet tumbling is more of a process but for me, it's worth it. I do not remove the primers before tumbling. I also use a dehydrator to dry the brass. One word of caution. When wet tumbling a small bullet case, such as .223, make sure the pins are totally removed as they can get stuck in the case. After drying a tap on the case mouth will remove any stuck pin. I have a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler and the large Dillion dry tumbler.
I am a cleaner, I shoot bullseye center fire with a S&W model 52 and I clean my brass after shooting and before reloading. I use a Lyman vibrator and it does a good job. I usually de cap the brass with a universal de capping die before hand to protect my sizing die. About 50% of the cases have media in the flash holes but it is no big deal to take care of.
I dry tumble after de-priming, poke out the flash holes and inspect for damage, case neck splitting etc at the same time. It doesn't take long and not only does it make the rounds look new, it gives me confidence in the safety, reliability and accuracy.
I began reloading as a lad under the supervision of my great uncle in 1958. Tumblers were unheard of then. (Yeah, I know rock tumblers were around) We loaded BP in 45 Colt. The cases were washed in a jar of soapy water and rinsed to kill the corrosive effect. But I personally didn't get a tumbler until 1980. I do tumble cases now, but not to the point of being rediciouliously over polished. Just cleaned enough still works for me.😁
I have tried several ways of cleaning brass. I use Dawn dish soap and water to clean cases. On range brass I inspect and clean out the worst of the crud. I then dump it all in a large pot of boiling hot cleaning solution. Stir vigorously, pour our into a stainless steel colander and catch the solution for another batch. Using straight hot water out of the faucet I rince the brass till water runs clear. I then pour out on a bath towel, fold in thirds the long way to eal the cases inside. I then hold the ends and roll the cases back and forth in the towel to get them some what dry. I then put the cases into my loading blocks, mouth down to drain. I then lube and size and decap then repeat the cleaning to remove the lube. Once dry I might or might not use a primer pocket tol to scrap out primer residue. Then prime and load. This may take a few days, I'm retired and don't shoot tons of ammo so it works well for me. Bright shiny cases don't shoot any better than clean stained cases. The thing that needs to be done is make the cases fit the chamber.
If you don't decap before you clean, your cleaning media will get full of the residue left in the primer. I use the ultrasonic, so no problem getting anything stuck in the charge hole. The Ultrasonic works okay, but not as well as the Pins or Cobbs. Thanks for another great video!
Something to consider: If you de-cap and re-size before tumbling, you are running all of that range grit through your de-cap die. After I tumble with walnut shells, I dump the brass in a plastic colander, and rinse all of the dust, etc off of them, towel dry, and then air dry thoroughly. It doesn't really take that much extra time to do.
As an average shooter who go to the range weekly : I wet clean my brass without any media after decap my brass once every 3 reload ! best accuracy after the 2nd dirty reload ;) ...
I like to dry tumble before decapping to get the gunk off, then do any sizing, trimming, deburring, chamfering, flash hole uniforming, swageing, primer pocket uniforming, and primer pocket cleaning, then do one more dry tumble to clear any possible remaining brass shavings out, inspect the primer pockets, and check them all with a case guage one last time afterwards to make sure there are no surprises that will jam my gun up at the range in the middle of some kind of competition, or even a plinking session. Brass prep has a lot of steps when done correctly, but it makes a big difference in the reliability of the rounds you shoot, and can increase your overall accuracy a lot. Plus it has got to be embarrassing to be that guy that has a major jam every 5th round at a match! Trust me I'm definitely one of the guys snickering in the background because I know your lazy brass prep is likely why!
For three decades I loaded .38 special. All I did was wipe it off and cleaned the primer pocket. I finally got two vibratory cleaners. I clean and polish and that is enough for me. I've seen the wet system and like the idea but I don't feel like it is a "must-do"... so, I'm a dry media guy. Good discussion of the topic.
Depends on what I am reloading. 5.56, etc. are wet tumbled (Frankford Arsenal 7 liter), dried (Frankford Arsenal Brass Dryer) followed by application of case lube then size and remove old primer. Next is dry tumble in “corn cob” blast media (bought in bulk, 40lbs, 20/40 grit) to remove case lube. Then I trim case length, bevel case mouth, and swage primer pocket if needed (Dillon 600). Handgun is a bit different, depending on calibers. 9mm, .38 spl, .357 are usually wet tumbled, dried, then reloaded (resized with tungsten steel dies so case lube is not used). Other larger calibers are case lubed and resized and primers removed between wet tumbling/drying, and dry tumbling. Length trimming is done on as needed basis.
I got back into reloading in 2020 after ammo disappeared after a 10 year hiatus. Thankfully, I had most of the equipment and components that I needed already on hand. Maybe it's the dies that I bought, but I found that I had to lube all my cases (even pistol cases in carbide dies) to get them to resize smoothly. Getting that case lube off of the brass was a must since it attracts all sorts of gunk if you don't. I learned about wet tumbling with stainless steel media and it works really well. I found that if I don't decap before tumbling that the stainless media gets caught in the flash hole of the case sometimes. I'm a bit nervous about trying to press it out of there with my decapping pin and I don't really want to inspect and wash out each case individually so decapping first is what I do. If the cases would resize smoothly without lube then I probably wouldn't bother with tumbling though.
I wet tumble, de cap then wet tumble which cleans the pocket without the worry of any media getting stuck like dry tumbling. It’s fast and in summer leave them in a rack sitting in the sun for a while or if it’s winter/overcast stick them in the oven at 110 Celsius for fifteen minutes. I also anneal every once in a while as well which you didn’t mention as part of the process. Cleaning them isn’t “necessary” but it does help keep the dies in good condition, they look better and importantly it lets you check for hairline cracks or issues with cases.
Thanks for the video!!! My first step... decap.. second...anneal... third... two 30 minute cycles through the sonic cleaner... then 1 hr in the tumbler..corn cob media... then FL resize... trim... debur.... another 30 minute cycle in the sonic cleaner... then at least an hour in the tumbler with polish!!!!
In a perfect world.... Wet clean after anything corrosive (black powder or old surplus) or after using sizing wax to reconfigure brass. Heavy trimming and resizing the neck( like when making 300 BO or Hamr from 556 brass), decap so that when you dry, the dry air goes through the case and does a better job(this also lessens the chance of water bridging from water tension on smaller bottleneck cases, like 556). I use Dry vibratory cleaning with caps in for all other brass. Walnut media for smaller cases, corn cob for larger. The exception to this is crimped primers.... I do like to decap, trim the pocket, and uniform it, then dry vibratory clean those. All this said, you can also choose based on lifestyle. If you have a small apartment and arrange limited on space, can't have the dust, etc.... a wet tumbler may be better for you. I cleaned hundreds of cases with a Harbor Freight gem tumbler and 1lb of stainless media on my kitchen counter when I first started. (I also let them air dry after getting as much water as possible out of them.... not the most efficient method for more than 20 cases at a time. Lol) Brass doesn't need to be spotless. It needs to be clean enough that you can see any cracks or dents, and discard any that look less than ideal... and clean enough to keep from fouling your dies. (Fouled dies are more likely to stick, leading to stuck cases or unwanted "bumps" or dings in your brass" ). It doesn't NEED to be shiny... but of course, there is just something about bright, shiny brass.... my preciousssssssss. 😮😅😂
Been handloading 50yrs and started using a dry polish untill I worked for a company that had a plating room where they wet washed copper and brass parts before plating . They could wet wash 500 cases with a chemical dip that took 20 seconds , hot water rinse and blow dry. The whole process took maybe three minutes. I retired from there in 2015 , man I miss that .
I've cleaned before and after resizing/decapping, and found that I still have to hand clean the primer pocket still, so now I only tumble clean prior to resizing in order to protect resizing dies. You still have to remove resizing lubricants prior to loading for several reasons. Lubricants can deactivate primers and contaminate propellants.
I always clean but I completely agree that you can overclean. I use a vibratory with either cob or walnut shell. I always decap first, and I look at each primer pocket after cleaning. Sometimes there is a bit of grit down in the pocket so I have a little hand pocket cleaner that I use to make sure theres nothing in that pocket. I appreciate your comments. Well done gentlemen.
When I first got into reloading I found that revolver cartridges (.44 Magnum to be precise) really did not like coming out of the revolver after being shot when they weren't cleaned before hand. After cleaning them they pop out much easier. For auto loaders I'm with Caleb on this. I'm OCD about making sure that brass is sparkling before I start reloading it. Be well each of you!
I've been reloading for about 15 years. I always tumble in corncob or walnut shell before decapping. I also add a drizzle of Nu Finish car polish to it. I've found it keeps the dust down, and the cases are nice and shiny.
I've reloaded since 1975, haven't used a case cleaner until a couple years ago and it makes reloading much more pleasant. BUT, I've always cleaned my primer pockets...
I have always wanted to reload...mostly because I think it would be therapeutic...a nice orderly, consistent process to turn out a uniform set of product. Must be satisfying as all get out.
After decades of vibrating and sonic cleaning I finally ended up with the Franklin Arsenal wet tumbling w/o the pins. I don't clean primer pockets for any pistol brass. I'm shooting holes in paper at 20 yards and there's no need to clean the primer pockets.
I have always cleaned my brass and for years used a dry tumbler with walnut hulls with a bit of Flitz brass case polish. About a year ago I switched to wet tumbling with Dawn detergent and Levi Shine. And then dry tumble with corn cob media and Flitz additive. These makes it smoother to resize the case.
It’s a hobby, and supposed to be fun. Maximize enjoyment, process accomplishment, and pride in your results. Stop cleaning when it becomes work that you’d rather not do.
Thanks Steve and Caleb, good video, good points made. I reloaded pistol and rifle calibers for around 20 years, to supply/support match participation. I prepped brass using all the steps discussed and got the best results from a vibratory tumbler with a capful of liquid brass cleaner, from Dillon. For smoothest extraction of a fired round, I found that the cleaned, polished case worked best. Particularly out of an auto loading action. Maybe not such a concern if using a revolver, lever action or bolt action rifle. Best regards, from Glenpool, Ok.
10 years of experience for me. I'm all about the dry tumbling. Done it all. I reload in bulk and this is the most time efficient and does very well. :)
I might catch some flak for this, but I always decap my cases then boil them in vinegar for about 5 minutes. Follow that with a good rinse and I'm off to the races! Cleans up the residue just enough for smooth reloading with minimal prep and expense.
I second you with that. I use a mixture of bio-degradable degreaser, tartaric acid and vinegar mixed in boiling water (ratio 2:1:1 in the order listed _ tsp measurements), shake them real good, rinse off with hot water and dry them up in my wife's air fryer at 70°C for 10 minutes😂😂. I find it cleans the brass enough for me to then re-size without damaging my dies. Also, I find the leftover carbon residue inside the case necks actually aid in bullet seating as it leaves a thin "wax" layer and reduces friction caused by seating process. A small, yet convienent, benefit and have found no deteriating results because of.
When I was introduced to reloading I was taught clean the brass, and I too leave the primer in while cleaning. I also use walnut dry medium. The guy that introduced me to reloading has been doing it 25 years. Myself, maybe two, three years. I bought 15 acres in the woods last year, so all my fun stuff has been put on hold. To busy doing property fun stuff.
I think much of this is driven by volume. If you are reloading a thousand cases, automation is a big help. I don't reload that much at one sitting. I try to not put dirty cases trough a die and I just wipe them off. After sizing I wipe off the lube. Mostly to keep from getting anything on primers. The cases are clean ish.
Definitely situational. I think the biggest reason is if you've got a fairly high volume of brass and you want a standardized process to protect your reloading equipment from grime and grit. From an actual performance standpoint, I don't think it really makes a difference. If you're just doing isolated reloading using known brass from guns you own, such as low volume for a bolt gun, then I don't think tumbling type cleaning is necessary. Just wipe the cases off real quick if needed.
For my handgun rounds, I throw the brass into a jug of hot water with Tide laundry detergent and a little bit of Dawn. I shake and swirl the brass around a bit, let it sit for 20 mins, shake and swirl again, then let sit for another 20 mins. Do a quick rinse with a colander then soak them in a 50/50 water/vinegar solution for an hour. Then I dump them into a colander and shake a bit, then sit overnight to dry. I'm a new reloader so I haven't done any rifle rounds yet. With those, I may exercise a little more care since there will be far fewer of them and they are more expensive.
been reloading for 40 plus years tumble for about an hour before sizing size and deprime tumble for another hour check the pockets for debris load and head to the range crushed walnut shell media always !
It isn’t a NEED unless it’s physically muddy or gummed up with carbon, but it just makes the process easier. I like to wet tumble with dawn and lemishine, then another cycle switching the dawn for ArmorAll wash and wax (prevents from tarnishing and prevents neck expander mandrel from galling) Always knock out primers before tumbling to ensure primer pockets are clean and consistent. To each their own, there are many ways to do it 👍🏻
Most of my range shooting is outdoors over grassy mud so everything gets tumbled with primers. I change the media when it becomes too dusty. I did have a problem once with walnut media with a cleaning additive. It redacted with my case lube. I use corn cob and washed the tumbled brass in dish soap water after tumbling now. The rifle cases have to be blown out and dried with compressed air.
I'm a clean freak. I wash cases in a small cement mixer from Harbor Freight, Lube , size /deprime, cut primer pocket crimps if needed, trim, champher, then stainless steel pin tumble with citric acid, dish soap and very warm water. Rinse , dry , then prime snd load. I just one of those guys who likes his ammo right the first time every time ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm new to reloading, but my kit came with a dry tumbler and it works fine for me. I do appreciate clean brass from the aspect of not having filthy hands when reloading, as well as keeping my dies clean. I may switch to wet, as I do appreciate the look, but until my tumbler breaks, I'm in no hurry to switch.
Imgotmintomreloading in the mid 90s and didn’t manage to purchase the cleaning equipment. Thus all my initial reloading in 9mm and 45ACP were don’t with dirty brass except for a little bit of new primed cases I initially purchased. It all went bang, even some of it that I found stashed away after 20 years. I haven’t reloaded for years. Hoping primers and components prices come down a bit and I’ll get back into it. Will get the cleaning equipment, however.
I Don't know yet !!! I have 357 magnum brass coming in the mail today, still haven't decided on powder, had the RCBS press and dies for 20 years now, just decided to try to reload, now that I'm retired.
I have been reloading 44 mag for 30 years, revolver reloads are much easier than auto ammo. They don't get as dirty without being ejected 20 feet away into the mud. Also the loads are much more forgiving. I would suggest starting to load with mid burn rate pistol power such as Unique to get your technique down before using mag power that requires much closer load tolerance to prevent squibs.
@@walterkleban2746 thank you, yes I was looking at Unique, most of these "initial" loads will be for practice rounds anyhow, so I'm not looking to max things out - I have lots of factory hollow points for game. AND yes,, on the auto, I fired 16 rounds of 45 ACP in the fall, and tried finding them a few weeks ago, after the snow melted, LOL, I found 2, the others disappeared.
Unique makes a good powder for reloading 45 autos. I use it at hot 44 special loads in my 44 mag as target loads. With light 200 gr projectiles they have similar velocities as full power 240 hunting rounds with a lot less strain on my wrist. You could do something similar for your 357.
@@walterkleban2746 yes, definitely want to save my wrist, I have a Ruger GP100 which is pretty heavy for a wheel gun, and a decent shooting one, but my 80 year old Dad wanted me to load him some lighter loads for his S&W19 which is a lighter 357 Magnum, and kicks a lot, he likes it, but I don't.
I started off with a dry tumbler, changed to ultrasonics, then wet tumbling with steel media. I have gravitated back to mostly ultrasonic cleaning. It's relatively fast and you don't have to deal with separating out the brass and steel media which is a royal PITA. The secret ingredient is Brass Juice -- wonderful stuff -- and an ultrasonic cleaner with enough power to do the job. With straight walled cases I don't see much difference between ultrasonic and wet tumbling as far as cleanliness. The wet tumbled brass might be a tad bit shinier. With bottle necked cartridges, the edge goes to wet tumbling slightly. f I have shot some of our 600 yard benchrest matches with both reloaded wet tumbled clean brass,and brass reloaded on the spot, just wiping off the exterior prior to resizing and the interior portion of the neck. I could't tell any difference in accuracy between the two.
I am one of those people who likes squeaky, sparkling clean brass inside and out. The only thing I feel is necessary though is cleaning the debris out of the case and the primer pocket.
I pretty much only reload pistol, and I set up a primer pocket brush in my drill press to clean up the residual gunk left in the primer pocket after I resize/deprime.
Myself, I use wet cleaning after decapping because our range tends to have lots of sand and some mud. It’s also more pleasurable for me during the case inspection not to have as much carbon and such built up too hide cracks or flaws.
I like to decap with no resizing before cleaning. After cleaning, I resize with the decapper in place to ensure the flash hole is not blocked with media.
I ruined a couple sizing dies with "dirty" brass so all used brass gets the ground walnut tumbler. Spray lube then run through one of the Dillons. Then tumble in coarse corn cob to remove the lube. Thumler Tumbler has been working since 1977, cost more but its so quiet and designed to run for weeks non-stop tumbling rocks. Replaced one set of nylon bearings and about 10 drive belts.
Just switched to wet case cleaning last year. It does a great job. Some of my brass is picked off of the ground/gravel and really does need to be cleaned. I use ss pins with decapped brass.
In the old days before pistol dies commonly had carbide inserts one would see a good number of scratched die sets in 38 and 45. The same was true of reloaded brass, you could easily tell the cases that had been reloaded with scratched dies. Now that most pistol dies have carbide sizers this has virtually disappeared.
I never really considered just de-capping before tumbling (dry), but it might make sense. For my rifle brass, I usually end up cleaning before resizing, then I will run them through the tumbler a second time to clean off the sizing lube - yes, a PITA since I then have to check/clean out the flash holes. For the pistol brass where I have carbide dies, I just clean them before resizing and call it a day. In either case, I clean the brass to help keep from wearing out the dies, I'm not particularly worried about how pretty the brass is.
I've been using dry tumbling for 30 years. I just switched to wet when my Thumler's tumbler finally gave out. No more dust on the cases after cleaning and with stainless pins, everything comes clean. I would never go back.
I dry tumble my brass with the primers still in. It helps keep the dies clean and makes checking for damage to the cases easier. I mostly reload pistol calibers using carbide dies and range brass. I've been doing it this way for over 45 years. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If you deprime first you are putting dirty brass into the sizer. As you say, this can damage the dies unless you just use a decapper die instead of the standard resizing die. In a pinch, I use a cloth dampened with Lucas Metal Polish before resizing. It works great with media in a tumbler as well.
I bought a decapping dye and decap all my brass and then. I put it through a wet Tumbler with some stainless steel media for 2 hours, and the brass looks like new. The only problem is I have to let it dry overnight with a fan blowing on it. But it is worth the Trouble the brass is beautiful when I am done, and the primer hole is very clean.
With 50+ years experience, I am a staunch convert to wet tumbling. There is minimally more work involved (drying) and the results leave no doubt about the cleanliness of your brass. The end result is a superior product, sure dirty brass still shoots okay, but for just a little more work, they are pretty !!!!!
@@mostpopularpresidentever sure is by a mile
For me, it's not work in laying them out on a towel overnight to dry. 🙂
@@mostpopularpresidentever You get in trouble for using the cookie sheet, too!?
@@mostpopularpresidentever Why not use the microwave? It will make some really pretty sparks. It's a joke people. Relax.
Pride of craftsmanship!
I personally use wet tumbling. Just pour water, citric acid and some soap in a rotating barrel. The acid eats the carbon build up even in the primer pocket but does not consume any significant metal. Then you only need to dry them. You can literally do pounds of brass at once.
but do you decap first?
@@bbhrdzaz I do - much easier to dry out brass when caps are gone...
I've loaded a couple thousand at once into an old pillow case and ran them through my clothes washer. I tried it several times. It's hell on your pillow case which may or may not survive, but surprisingly it does a really good job. Didn't damage my washer at all, but I ruined several old pillow cases. Decided to get a wet tumbler after that. I like dawn dishsoap and lemi-shine and a touch of car wash and wax.
Same, but I wash first to remove dirt, dust and debris so I don't damage my dies or get stuck cases. Resize, de-prime and wash again to remove lube and to clean the primer pocket. Then, reload.
My exact routine except I don't decap first. I rinse after cleaning, spin the cleaned cartridges then just let them dry in the sun. I have lots of that. When I look at how dirty the water is and the settled crap on the bottom of the bucket it tells me I am saving wear on my equipment. But, to each his own.
The beauty of reloading is that as long as you stay within the safety rules of reloading, there is no wrong answer or wrong way to do things. I enjoy learning from others about reloading. As for me: I wet tumble and I am OCD for cleanliness :)
I have been reloading for over 40 years. I prefer to dry tumble brass before reloading. I think it is easier to resize without the debris on the case from firing. I do not de-cap before tumbling as I prefer not to get media in the flash hole. When I have to trim the brass I also clean the primer pockets as well. If the brass becomes very dull, I do occasionally polish the cases with dry media and a polishing compound. It makes them look "factory". Keep the videos coming! I enjoy them a lot.
I wet tumble with stainless steel pins. Loading is a hobby for me (retired) and I enjoy trying to achieve perfection. I only shoot about a hundred rounds a week so it’s not really an issue. I enjoy the channel.
I've been reloading for 25+ years and have never owned a tumbler. I shoot on average 2500 rounds of center fire a year. Still using the same dies as 25+ years ago. No unusual wear on the dies. I do however wash brass with soapy water that has been picked up off the ground. But indoor brass never gets washed or tumbled.
OK.. so.. I look at cleaning as just a step in the brass prep process. I have come to believe that brass prep is the most important and overlooked step in the reloading process (especially for bottleneck rifle cartridges). The real key here is "process". Its important to have a process and do it the same way each time. For every batch of what ever its decap and size, wet clean with steel pins, dry, inspect and trim.. then load. How sparkly they are doesn't matter, but uniformity in sizing, length, primer seating, charging and OAL makes for very consistent results when the unloading process occurs. Thanks for these videos you guys do. I dig them.
54+ years reloading. Clean all brass before loading. I used to use a dry media case tumbler. I now use a Frankfort Arsenal steel pin and water tumbler. This system makes brass as clean as new. Water, steel pins, Dawn and Lemi-Shine.
Exactly what I do. Easy and spotless every time.
Ive tried most all ways if cleaning brass, wet,ultrasonic,tumble, ect… i found for my needs dry walnut or corn cob media for best results, and always decap after cleaning!
I decap then wet tumble in my harbor freight double tumbler. Takes twenty minutes to do and makes working on a brass for reloading much nicer since there's zero dirt and carbon and no dry media powders.
EDIT : I also use stainless steel pins, they last for years. I drain the tumbler through one of those reusable coffee filters to catch the pins. Bought five pounds of pins almost five years ago and am still using the original amount needed for each tumbler with the rest stored away in the closet. Will be years before I need to get another five pound bag.
A bottle of dawn or even generic dawn and a pack of citrus cleaner lasts a long time and can be used to do dishes if needed, cheaper than corn cob media and you don't have to worry about lead dust in the air which most don't think about when dry tumbling.
That's my personal preference, to each their own in how or if they clean brass.
I do exactly the same thing and the Harbor Freight tumbler is great. I have forced hot air in my home and in the winter I put them on top of the vents, don't laugh works great !! I do notice though to always check no pins left in cases.
Dang! that is a great idea with the coffee filters. I use the same HGT tumbler, but with the stainless steel chips. Those things are a real bugger to keep corralled, thanks for the tip.
For the sake of keeping your dies clean and ease of reloading, I always clean. I couldn’t imagine lubing up a dirty 223 and running it through a resizing die.
I switched over to pin tumbling with a harbor freight rock tumbler. $35 for double tumbler and about 15 bucks for pins. Brass comes out better than new after 4 hours.. Inside and out. Same with primer pockets. I just use a teaspoon of dish washing liquid and a tablespoon of lemishine. I’ve loaded and ladder tested without cleaning over the decades. Just like it clean when I load up hunting ammo that could sit for a decade or more before I use it all. If not it gets oxidized and super tarnished from already being dirty.
It takes one hour and a half maximum to clean them if you slap it in an ultrasonic then put it in a brass dryer. It is so easy and doesn’t ruin your dies.
I usw wet tumbling with steel pins.
Half a teaspoon of citric acid and a squirt of dishwashing soap for ~2 pounds of brass.
I do decap all cases with a universal decapping die in a lee APP press before cleaning. (I don't like all the dirt from decapping in my reloading press, that is why i bought the APP)
I also anneal my rifle cases (except 223rem) before cleaning
I dry tumble before putting the cases through the sizing die. I use fine corn cob.
I also tumble a second time after running the brass through the sizing die to remove all traces of sizing lubricant and it also cleans the prime pockets.
Great Video!! I always tumble in walnut media just to clean any junk off the brass. I ruined a 9mm die running a dirty brass into it. Every brass after that came out scratched - time for a new carbide die! I have found that I got too frustrated having to punch the media out of the flash hole so I tumble before I deprime. Been playing with this for over 40 years and I think I am finally getting the hang of it!!
I am from up North. NY When Winter comes my shooting cuts way back. Thats when I reload. That being said maybe I have a little OCO. The first thing I do is get all my fired brass together buy Cal.
and start wet tumbling them with just water and dawn dish soap. I then heat the brass up with a heat gun for a few minutes and let stand overnight. My next process is to resize and decap & bello case mouths. My next process is to wet retumble with water, stainless, dawn soap and lemonshine water softener. When I get done with this it would be hard to distinguish my used brass from new unfired brass. Being that I am retired makes a big difference. A few years back I put all my Progressive reloading presses on my back shelf and started using a single stage press. Reloading to me is almost another hobby and very relaxing. I have been doing this for over 55 years and yes all my reloads look like new factory loads. Its just all about self satisfaction.
I always clean my brass I will use Ultrasonic or dry tumble. Most range brass I will sonic clean then reload. Range brass can be really nasty at times. If it is my brass then I will dry tumble and always remove primer first.
I’m somewhat new to reloading so I jumped right into wet-pin tumbling and love it. For me it’s not about clean or dirty-both will fire if done right, but I find it much easier to inspect cases if clean. I’m in no hurry also, so letting them air dry was ok but have recently purchased a Frankford Arsenal “dehydrator”. An hour tumbling and an hour drying make some nice looking cases to work with..
Same, but at times I have loaded my wet brass onto and metal pizza pan with tiny holes all over the thing and run them in the oven @ ~200 degrees +/- until dry. If I'm in a hurry or if it's winter and I want to be sure they are dry.
I shoot blackpowder 45-70 cartridges and it does tend to build up burnt residue but very minimal. I can see as an example that if you shoot that same brass over and over without cleaning you may be changing your pressure of that cartridge due to the buildup.
I have one of those vibrating cleaners...I use it, I like my brass kind of shiny. But then I don't shoot so much that it's a huge effort to examine all my deprimed brass for flash hole blockages, or to use a primer hole cleaning gadget [usually while watching TV]. A good Brownell's video might be a long-form piece on reloading best practices. Nobody ever taught me how to reload...I just read instructions and did what felt right. I never thought about whether brass needed to be cleaned at all, how much or why.
My grandfather taught me to reload as a young boy 55 years ago we never tumbled any brass or even heard of it. However I got back into reloading after retiring about 5 years ago and I do dry tumble now but keep it real simple. Not sure if see any difference but the ammo looks much nicer.
Beautiful design and presentation ! My motivation - you said it - clean brass is easier to load. And TANSTAAFL: I use THAT rotary tumbler with steel pins [Thumler Tumbler with the double speed motor]. Woolite is better than Dawn - I've had black residue on the brass from Dawn - Woolite took care of that. When done tumbling (oh, and it is NOISY - have put out back or in the garage) when dumping the tumbler contents, there are visible brass particles. This means necessarily, the cleaning process wears on the brass. Perhaps the effect is far less than the flex and eventual metal fatigue of repeated firings. With tempering, perhaps the brass would last long enough for the tumbling wear to have an appreciable effect. I think I'm old enough, and have enough brass on hand, that I will not be able to reload my brass enough to matter. As they say, "Too late smart; too soon old."
Hello from Oklahoma! Good Video! I get something from each of your videos. If I'm loading ammo for long term storage, I clean it real good. If it's range brass, I wash it tumble it, maybe 20 min. and clean the primer pocket. By range brass I mean brass I use at the range. Thanks for all U do! Go Bless!
Wet tumble on the cheap. The most expensive item on my rig is the stainless media pins. Decap before as to reduce emulsified mercury fulminate exposure. The amount of sludge coming off makes me tumble a second time (10 minutes) with filtered water. But my whole process allows to set a timer and walk away, spending less than 15 minutes physically with the brass. Watch out for hard water and too much citric acid. Both will result in spotty brass and possible leeching of the softer metals.
Always cleaned my brass (vibratory for ages). Started using a wet tumbler more recently (no pins, Brass Juice works insanely well without pins) and like how it comes out. Sometimes I've run the rounds through the vibratory after reloading, but not always. Really depends on the projectile I'm using. If plated/jacketed, then I don't.
IMO, it's easier to find your brass if it's cleaner than what's also on the ground.
so can you use a wet tumbler without pins? only a cleaning solution? like detergent and lemi shine? i would like to skip the step of shaking pins out of cases
Good info...I myself don't deprime until after like Steve. And I like using dry as well. To me it works and is a little more affordable. If your not careful you can make reloading unaffordable real quick.
Seems like you need to deprime first IF you are using a wet tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner. Lets water out more easily.
I usually use dry media and deprime after.
I used to clean primer pockets until I got a Dillon 550. Stops the whole cadence of a semi progressive. Found out I didn't need a clean pocket whether auto pistol, revolver or centerfire rifle. If I have a small batch to work up an accuracy load I'll clean the pocket.
I ALWAYS de-prime *before* cleaning the cases. I've used dry media and wet cleaning and find wet cleaning WAY better. Cases come out looking like
brand new. Been reloading since 1981 and figure that if something is worth doing it's worth doing as best I can. Others can do as pleases them.
I run my dirty brass in a wet tumbler with Lemi-Shine or Dawn dish soap and stainless-steel media to clean it up for resize and decap. Once cleaned, I lubricate w/alcohol and Lanolin, run em' through the press (resize) and clean them once again when finished to remove sticky lube and to clean the primer pockets now that they've been de-primed with dish soap and Lemi-shine detergent booster which is a spot remover for dishes and it makes it bright and shinney. After all that I prime and load. It's probably a bit much but I like my ammo neat, clean and shinney brass.
I always clean the brass. I also decap after tumbling. I just use a primer pocket cleaning tool to clean after.
When i started reloading several years ago it was with a dry tumbler, the dust and lead particulates made me look elsewhere. Bought the wet tumbler with steel pins, it was worth the extra work to have shiny new brass. Recently i started cleaning in the wet tumbler with no pins, a lot easier and plenty clean enough. I’m a little OCD so my need for extra shiny makes me go overboard sometimes but i’ve found i don’t need the pins, saves time and energy and they’re shiny enough. Good video guys.
I used to dry tumble with corncob media. I started wet tumbling a couple years ago. Now the dry tumbler is used to remove the case lube after loading. I got some really cruddy range brass that was starting to turn green and just for the heck of it I wet tumbled with SS pins, Dawn soap and Lemi Shine. I could not believe how clean the brass came out, like new. Wet tumbling is more of a process but for me, it's worth it. I do not remove the primers before tumbling. I also use a dehydrator to dry the brass. One word of caution. When wet tumbling a small bullet case, such as .223, make sure the pins are totally removed as they can get stuck in the case. After drying a tap on the case mouth will remove any stuck pin. I have a Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler and the large Dillion dry tumbler.
I am a cleaner, I shoot bullseye center fire with a S&W model 52 and I clean my brass after shooting and before reloading. I use a Lyman vibrator and it does a good job. I usually de cap the brass with a universal de capping die before hand to protect my sizing die. About 50% of the cases have media in the flash holes but it is no big deal to take care of.
I dry tumble after de-priming, poke out the flash holes and inspect for damage, case neck splitting etc at the same time. It doesn't take long and not only does it make the rounds look new, it gives me confidence in the safety, reliability and accuracy.
I began reloading as a lad under the supervision of my great uncle in 1958. Tumblers were unheard of then. (Yeah, I know rock tumblers were around) We loaded BP in 45 Colt. The cases were washed in a jar of soapy water and rinsed to kill the corrosive effect. But I personally didn't get a tumbler until 1980. I do tumble cases now, but not to the point of being rediciouliously over polished. Just cleaned enough still works for me.😁
Rcbs wet tumbling cleaner is the best I've found. Has a tarnish inhibitor that keeps that shine for a while. Want to show off that showroom shine
I have tried several ways of cleaning brass. I use Dawn dish soap and water to clean cases.
On range brass I inspect and clean out the worst of the crud. I then dump it all in a large pot of boiling hot cleaning solution. Stir vigorously, pour our into a stainless steel colander and catch the solution for another batch. Using straight hot water out of the faucet I rince the brass till water runs clear. I then pour out on a bath towel, fold in thirds the long way to eal the cases inside. I then hold the ends and roll the cases back and forth in the towel to get them some what dry. I then put the cases into my loading blocks, mouth down to drain.
I then lube and size and decap then repeat the cleaning to remove the lube. Once dry I might or might not use a primer pocket tol to scrap out primer residue. Then prime and load.
This may take a few days, I'm retired and don't shoot tons of ammo so it works well for me.
Bright shiny cases don't shoot any better than clean stained cases. The thing that needs to be done is make the cases fit the chamber.
If you don't decap before you clean, your cleaning media will get full of the residue left in the primer. I use the ultrasonic, so no problem getting anything stuck in the charge hole. The Ultrasonic works okay, but not as well as the Pins or Cobbs. Thanks for another great video!
Good point for those using media.
Something to consider: If you de-cap and re-size before tumbling, you are running all of that range grit through your de-cap die. After I tumble with walnut shells, I dump the brass in a plastic colander, and rinse all of the dust, etc off of them, towel dry, and then air dry thoroughly. It doesn't really take that much extra time to do.
As an average shooter who go to the range weekly : I wet clean my brass without any media after decap my brass once every 3 reload ! best accuracy after the 2nd dirty reload ;) ...
I like to dry tumble before decapping to get the gunk off, then do any sizing, trimming, deburring, chamfering, flash hole uniforming, swageing, primer pocket uniforming, and primer pocket cleaning, then do one more dry tumble to clear any possible remaining brass shavings out, inspect the primer pockets, and check them all with a case guage one last time afterwards to make sure there are no surprises that will jam my gun up at the range in the middle of some kind of competition, or even a plinking session. Brass prep has a lot of steps when done correctly, but it makes a big difference in the reliability of the rounds you shoot, and can increase your overall accuracy a lot. Plus it has got to be embarrassing to be that guy that has a major jam every 5th round at a match! Trust me I'm definitely one of the guys snickering in the background because I know your lazy brass prep is likely why!
For three decades I loaded .38 special. All I did was wipe it off and cleaned the primer pocket. I finally got two vibratory cleaners. I clean and polish and that is enough for me. I've seen the wet system and like the idea but I don't feel like it is a "must-do"... so, I'm a dry media guy. Good discussion of the topic.
Depends on what I am reloading. 5.56, etc. are wet tumbled (Frankford Arsenal 7 liter), dried (Frankford Arsenal Brass Dryer) followed by application of case lube then size and remove old primer. Next is dry tumble in “corn cob” blast media (bought in bulk, 40lbs, 20/40 grit) to remove case lube. Then I trim case length, bevel case mouth, and swage primer pocket if needed (Dillon 600).
Handgun is a bit different, depending on calibers. 9mm, .38 spl, .357 are usually wet tumbled, dried, then reloaded (resized with tungsten steel dies so case lube is not used). Other larger calibers are case lubed and resized and primers removed between wet tumbling/drying, and dry tumbling. Length trimming is done on as needed basis.
I got back into reloading in 2020 after ammo disappeared after a 10 year hiatus. Thankfully, I had most of the equipment and components that I needed already on hand. Maybe it's the dies that I bought, but I found that I had to lube all my cases (even pistol cases in carbide dies) to get them to resize smoothly. Getting that case lube off of the brass was a must since it attracts all sorts of gunk if you don't. I learned about wet tumbling with stainless steel media and it works really well. I found that if I don't decap before tumbling that the stainless media gets caught in the flash hole of the case sometimes. I'm a bit nervous about trying to press it out of there with my decapping pin and I don't really want to inspect and wash out each case individually so decapping first is what I do. If the cases would resize smoothly without lube then I probably wouldn't bother with tumbling though.
I wet tumble, de cap then wet tumble which cleans the pocket without the worry of any media getting stuck like dry tumbling. It’s fast and in summer leave them in a rack sitting in the sun for a while or if it’s winter/overcast stick them in the oven at 110 Celsius for fifteen minutes.
I also anneal every once in a while as well which you didn’t mention as part of the process.
Cleaning them isn’t “necessary” but it does help keep the dies in good condition, they look better and importantly it lets you check for hairline cracks or issues with cases.
Thanks for the video!!!
My first step... decap.. second...anneal... third... two 30 minute cycles through the sonic cleaner... then 1 hr in the tumbler..corn cob media... then FL resize... trim... debur.... another 30 minute cycle in the sonic cleaner... then at least an hour in the tumbler with polish!!!!
Cleaning primer pockets is my big hangup. I hate doing it. Sounds like I don't need to. Thanks!
I reload 45ACP, 223/5.56, 38/357 magnum. I use an ultrasonic cleaner for all the brass, and yes, I decap before cleaning. I enjoyed this conversation!
Love the new website. Looking forward to being able to log in again, too. ;-)
In a perfect world....
Wet clean after anything corrosive (black powder or old surplus) or after using sizing wax to reconfigure brass. Heavy trimming and resizing the neck( like when making 300 BO or Hamr from 556 brass), decap so that when you dry, the dry air goes through the case and does a better job(this also lessens the chance of water bridging from water tension on smaller bottleneck cases, like 556).
I use Dry vibratory cleaning with caps in for all other brass. Walnut media for smaller cases, corn cob for larger.
The exception to this is crimped primers.... I do like to decap, trim the pocket, and uniform it, then dry vibratory clean those.
All this said, you can also choose based on lifestyle. If you have a small apartment and arrange limited on space, can't have the dust, etc.... a wet tumbler may be better for you. I cleaned hundreds of cases with a Harbor Freight gem tumbler and 1lb of stainless media on my kitchen counter when I first started. (I also let them air dry after getting as much water as possible out of them.... not the most efficient method for more than 20 cases at a time. Lol)
Brass doesn't need to be spotless. It needs to be clean enough that you can see any cracks or dents, and discard any that look less than ideal... and clean enough to keep from fouling your dies. (Fouled dies are more likely to stick, leading to stuck cases or unwanted "bumps" or dings in your brass" ).
It doesn't NEED to be shiny... but of course, there is just something about bright, shiny brass.... my preciousssssssss. 😮😅😂
Been handloading 50yrs and started using a dry polish untill I worked for a company that had a plating room where they wet washed copper and brass parts before plating . They could wet wash 500 cases with a chemical dip that took 20 seconds , hot water rinse and blow dry. The whole process took maybe three minutes. I retired from there in 2015 , man I miss that .
I have reloaded for over 40 years and have found that spent shells run through a dry tumbler before prep of cases is all that I need.
I've cleaned before and after resizing/decapping, and found that I still have to hand clean the primer pocket still, so now I only tumble clean prior to resizing in order to protect resizing dies. You still have to remove resizing lubricants prior to loading for several reasons. Lubricants can deactivate primers and contaminate propellants.
I prefer to dry tumble all my brass. As stated before, I think it's easier on all of the dies & the weapons it's used in.
I always clean but I completely agree that you can overclean. I use a vibratory with either cob or walnut shell. I always decap first, and I look at each primer pocket after cleaning. Sometimes there is a bit of grit down in the pocket so I have a little hand pocket cleaner that I use to make sure theres nothing in that pocket. I appreciate your comments. Well done gentlemen.
I truly enjoy these Smith Busters vids. You two are such an awesome team!
When I first got into reloading I found that revolver cartridges (.44 Magnum to be precise) really did not
like coming out of the revolver after being shot when they weren't cleaned before hand. After cleaning them
they pop out much easier. For auto loaders I'm with Caleb on this. I'm OCD about making sure that brass is
sparkling before I start reloading it. Be well each of you!
I've been reloading for about 15 years. I always tumble in corncob or walnut shell before decapping.
I also add a drizzle of Nu Finish car polish to it. I've found it keeps the dust down, and the cases are nice and shiny.
I've reloaded since 1975, haven't used a case cleaner until a couple years ago and it makes reloading much more pleasant.
BUT, I've always cleaned my primer pockets...
I have always wanted to reload...mostly because I think it would be therapeutic...a nice orderly, consistent process to turn out a uniform set of product. Must be satisfying as all get out.
Caleb ever heard of a primer pocket cleaner? Its a whole tool they use to get the pockets clean AFTER cleaning/decapping. All in fun, you guys rock. 🤙
After decades of vibrating and sonic cleaning I finally ended up with the Franklin Arsenal wet tumbling w/o the pins. I don't clean primer pockets for any pistol brass. I'm shooting holes in paper at 20 yards and there's no need to clean the primer pockets.
I have always cleaned my brass and for years used a dry tumbler with walnut hulls with a bit of Flitz brass case polish. About a year ago I switched to wet tumbling with Dawn detergent and Levi Shine. And then dry tumble with corn cob media and Flitz additive. These makes it smoother to resize the case.
It’s a hobby, and supposed to be fun. Maximize enjoyment, process accomplishment, and pride in your results. Stop cleaning when it becomes work that you’d rather not do.
Thanks Steve and Caleb, good video, good points made. I reloaded pistol and rifle calibers for around 20 years, to supply/support match participation. I prepped brass using all the steps discussed and got the best results from a vibratory tumbler with a capful of liquid brass cleaner, from Dillon. For smoothest extraction of a fired round, I found that the cleaned, polished case worked best. Particularly out of an auto loading action. Maybe not
such a concern if using a revolver, lever action or bolt action rifle. Best regards, from Glenpool, Ok.
I'm with Steve on cleaning before depriming. Clean brass in my dies!
This is the way...
Grab a universal de capping die ( lee sells one) and you will be sorted
Ha I do both. Dry tumble, size deprime. Then wet tumble( removes sizing wax, cleans pockets) trim inspect then reload.
10 years of experience for me. I'm all about the dry tumbling. Done it all. I reload in bulk and this is the most time efficient and does very well. :)
I might catch some flak for this, but I always decap my cases then boil them in vinegar for about 5 minutes. Follow that with a good rinse and I'm off to the races! Cleans up the residue just enough for smooth reloading with minimal prep and expense.
I second you with that. I use a mixture of bio-degradable degreaser, tartaric acid and vinegar mixed in boiling water (ratio 2:1:1 in the order listed _ tsp measurements), shake them real good, rinse off with hot water and dry them up in my wife's air fryer at 70°C for 10 minutes😂😂.
I find it cleans the brass enough for me to then re-size without damaging my dies. Also, I find the leftover carbon residue inside the case necks actually aid in bullet seating as it leaves a thin "wax" layer and reduces friction caused by seating process. A small, yet convienent, benefit and have found no deteriating results because of.
When I was introduced to reloading I was taught clean the brass, and I too leave the primer in while cleaning. I also use walnut dry medium. The guy that introduced me to reloading has been doing it 25 years. Myself, maybe two, three years. I bought 15 acres in the woods last year, so all my fun stuff has been put on hold. To busy doing property fun stuff.
I think much of this is driven by volume. If you are reloading a thousand cases, automation is a big help. I don't reload that much at one sitting. I try to not put dirty cases trough a die and I just wipe them off. After sizing I wipe off the lube. Mostly to keep from getting anything on primers. The cases are clean ish.
I'm guilty of double cleaning. I clean my brass before resizing and then I clean the lube off the brass after
Definitely situational. I think the biggest reason is if you've got a fairly high volume of brass and you want a standardized process to protect your reloading equipment from grime and grit. From an actual performance standpoint, I don't think it really makes a difference. If you're just doing isolated reloading using known brass from guns you own, such as low volume for a bolt gun, then I don't think tumbling type cleaning is necessary. Just wipe the cases off real quick if needed.
You guys missed the ultrasonic cleaning method !
Love the primer comment. Flash hole. Y’all covered it all. Thanks.
For my handgun rounds, I throw the brass into a jug of hot water with Tide laundry detergent and a little bit of Dawn. I shake and swirl the brass around a bit, let it sit for 20 mins, shake and swirl again, then let sit for another 20 mins. Do a quick rinse with a colander then soak them in a 50/50 water/vinegar solution for an hour. Then I dump them into a colander and shake a bit, then sit overnight to dry. I'm a new reloader so I haven't done any rifle rounds yet. With those, I may exercise a little more care since there will be far fewer of them and they are more expensive.
been reloading for 40 plus years tumble for about an hour before sizing size and deprime tumble for another hour check the pockets for debris load and head to the range crushed walnut shell media always !
It isn’t a NEED unless it’s physically muddy or gummed up with carbon, but it just makes the process easier. I like to wet tumble with dawn and lemishine, then another cycle switching the dawn for ArmorAll wash and wax (prevents from tarnishing and prevents neck expander mandrel from galling)
Always knock out primers before tumbling to ensure primer pockets are clean and consistent. To each their own, there are many ways to do it 👍🏻
Most of my range shooting is outdoors over grassy mud so everything gets tumbled with primers. I change the media when it becomes too dusty. I did have a problem once with walnut media with a cleaning additive. It redacted with my case lube. I use corn cob and washed the tumbled brass in dish soap water after tumbling now. The rifle cases have to be blown out and dried with compressed air.
I'm a clean freak.
I wash cases in a small cement mixer from
Harbor Freight, Lube ,
size /deprime, cut primer pocket crimps if needed, trim, champher, then stainless steel pin tumble with citric acid, dish soap and very warm water.
Rinse , dry , then prime snd load. I just one of those guys who likes his ammo right the first time every time ! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm new to reloading, but my kit came with a dry tumbler and it works fine for me. I do appreciate clean brass from the aspect of not having filthy hands when reloading, as well as keeping my dies clean. I may switch to wet, as I do appreciate the look, but until my tumbler breaks, I'm in no hurry to switch.
Imgotmintomreloading in the mid 90s and didn’t manage to purchase the cleaning equipment. Thus all my initial reloading in 9mm and 45ACP were don’t with dirty brass except for a little bit of new primed cases I initially purchased. It all went bang, even some of it that I found stashed away after 20 years. I haven’t reloaded for years. Hoping primers and components prices come down a bit and I’ll get back into it. Will get the cleaning equipment, however.
I Don't know yet !!! I have 357 magnum brass coming in the mail today, still haven't decided on powder, had the RCBS press and dies for 20 years now, just decided to try to reload, now that I'm retired.
I have been reloading 44 mag for 30 years, revolver reloads are much easier than auto ammo. They don't get as dirty without being ejected 20 feet away into the mud. Also the loads are much more forgiving. I would suggest starting to load with mid burn rate pistol power such as Unique to get your technique down before using mag power that requires much closer load tolerance to prevent squibs.
@@walterkleban2746 thank you, yes I was looking at Unique, most of these "initial" loads will be for practice rounds anyhow, so I'm not looking to max things out - I have lots of factory hollow points for game. AND yes,, on the auto, I fired 16 rounds of 45 ACP in the fall, and tried finding them a few weeks ago, after the snow melted, LOL, I found 2, the others disappeared.
Unique makes a good powder for reloading 45 autos. I use it at hot 44 special loads in my 44 mag as target loads. With light 200 gr projectiles they have similar velocities as full power 240 hunting rounds with a lot less strain on my wrist. You could do something similar for your 357.
@@walterkleban2746 yes, definitely want to save my wrist, I have a Ruger GP100 which is pretty heavy for a wheel gun, and a decent shooting one, but my 80 year old Dad wanted me to load him some lighter loads for his S&W19 which is a lighter 357 Magnum, and kicks a lot, he likes it, but I don't.
I started off with a dry tumbler, changed to ultrasonics, then wet tumbling with steel media. I have gravitated back to mostly ultrasonic cleaning. It's relatively fast and you don't have to deal with separating out the brass and steel media which is a royal PITA. The secret ingredient is Brass Juice -- wonderful stuff -- and an ultrasonic cleaner with enough power to do the job. With straight walled cases I don't see much difference between ultrasonic and wet tumbling as far as cleanliness. The wet tumbled brass might be a tad bit shinier. With bottle necked cartridges, the edge goes to wet tumbling slightly. f
I have shot some of our 600 yard benchrest matches with both reloaded wet tumbled clean brass,and brass reloaded on the spot, just wiping off the exterior prior to resizing and the interior portion of the neck. I could't tell any difference in accuracy between the two.
I am one of those people who likes squeaky, sparkling clean brass inside and out. The only thing I feel is necessary though is cleaning the debris out of the case and the primer pocket.
I pretty much only reload pistol, and I set up a primer pocket brush in my drill press to clean up the residual gunk left in the primer pocket after I resize/deprime.
Myself, I use wet cleaning after decapping because our range tends to have lots of sand and some mud. It’s also more pleasurable for me during the case inspection not to have as much carbon and such built up too hide cracks or flaws.
Great video, thank you. Learned a lot from all the very helpful comments.
I like to decap with no resizing before cleaning. After cleaning, I resize with the decapper in place to ensure the flash hole is not blocked with media.
Since we're on the topic of reloading, the next video should be the question of "Do you have to trim your cases?"
Used to dry tumble hated the media in the flash hole, now I wet and love it. I don't decap first. Never had an issue.
I ruined a couple sizing dies with "dirty" brass so all used brass gets the ground walnut tumbler. Spray lube then run through one of the Dillons. Then tumble in coarse corn cob to remove the lube. Thumler Tumbler has been working since 1977, cost more but its so quiet and designed to run for weeks non-stop tumbling rocks. Replaced one set of nylon bearings and about 10 drive belts.
Just switched to wet case cleaning last year. It does a great job. Some of my brass is picked off of the ground/gravel and really does need to be cleaned. I use ss pins with decapped brass.
In the old days before pistol dies commonly had carbide inserts one would see a good number of scratched die sets in 38 and 45. The same was true of reloaded brass, you could easily tell the cases that had been reloaded with scratched dies. Now that most pistol dies have carbide sizers this has virtually disappeared.
I de-prime then wet tumble with stainless pins. I don't care fir the dust and all with dry media. Clean brass is happy brass.
I never really considered just de-capping before tumbling (dry), but it might make sense. For my rifle brass, I usually end up cleaning before resizing, then I will run them through the tumbler a second time to clean off the sizing lube - yes, a PITA since I then have to check/clean out the flash holes. For the pistol brass where I have carbide dies, I just clean them before resizing and call it a day. In either case, I clean the brass to help keep from wearing out the dies, I'm not particularly worried about how pretty the brass is.
I've been using dry tumbling for 30 years. I just switched to wet when my Thumler's tumbler finally gave out. No more dust on the cases after cleaning and with stainless pins, everything comes clean. I would never go back.
I dry tumble my brass with the primers still in. It helps keep the dies clean and makes checking for damage to the cases easier. I mostly reload pistol calibers using carbide dies and range brass. I've been doing it this way for over 45 years. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If you deprime first you are putting dirty brass into the sizer. As you say, this can damage the dies unless you just use a decapper die instead of the standard resizing die. In a pinch, I use a cloth dampened with Lucas Metal Polish before resizing. It works great with media in a tumbler as well.
I bought a decapping dye and decap all my brass and then. I put it through a wet Tumbler with some stainless steel media for 2 hours, and the brass looks like new. The only problem is I have to let it dry overnight with a fan blowing on it. But it is worth the
Trouble the brass is beautiful when I am done, and the primer hole is very clean.
Hi, I always cleaned for longer term storage. I hope I was not wasting time. Please tell me your thoughts. 5:27