Coarse alignment of the engine
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- In this video I add some jacking screws to the engine mount shims and do a coarse alignment of the engine. The Detroit Diesel is a heavy engine so having the jacking screws will make it much easier to do the fine alignment when the time comes.
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You need a piece of paper taped on a wall that says “Out there are 132,000 strangers I have never met, but who feel they know me as a friend because they are following me through this journey” Then when you get a touch of the turgid gloom’s, read it out to yourself. You are not talking to a camera, you are talking to all us disciples . 🤗😁 Respect to you Stu.
Well said. I second this. Keep going Stu.
That’s a good idea. Parts of the job certainly feel hard and lonely but it does help having you guys supporting me. :)
I sit here every week waiting for the next instalment. If you don’t put something up every week I get really annoyed and sulk about until you do....😂😂
You are doing what my lifetime dream has been. Hopefully you will motivate me to try at very least a small part of what you have achieved.
Proud to say I watch your journey. 👍😁
who needs Netflix ?
G'Day Stu,Mate in the industry that loose foot is called soft foot,where the machined base in not in the same plain,or worn away,,Not too bad in your case as you have adjustment on the mount bolts to compensate.Before nipping up the final pull down,,just go around and check that soft foot,if you pull it all down and one foot was a little loose,this will twist your engine,,
Don't want that,as this will try and twist block,,NOT GOOD,have seen large elec motors brake mounting plates clean off, because of this,,when i say large,these motor weigh in at about 20 ton,3 phase monsters and yes we test for soft foot,by using feeler under each foot and shim before alignment,to remove soft foot,,But with your adjustable mounts you should be right,
Spose final test ,tighten down stud to motor mount and then release foot on to plate,,run feeler under to see,,do them one at a time,,and re tighten before moving to the next,
Now we are getting some where,,
HMMMMMM,,,did i say "WE"...hahaha
Thanks mate. Fortunately when I Got the opposite foot adjusted it’s sat down quite nicely I’ll definitely do a final check on everything though
I have been watching since before this whole restoration process, but I still remember your first video asking the question, "Is it a smart idea to buy an old steel boat?". I hope after you get Renko underway and she passes her tests you will revisit that question and let us know what you think. xD
Same exact thoughts here. It was that bold question that attracted me to this channel in the first place. "Is it a smart idea to buy an old steel boat?" I'd very much like to hear Stu's opinion when it's all said and done. I know my answer to the question, "Do you like welding?"
Same here, its that question which took me here and got me hooked ever since... and loving every moment of it... Cheers Stu👍🍻
Stu, that was an excellent original question to ask and definitely for me that is an ABSOLUTE NO. I purchased an old Sparkman and Steven's 38 footer,built from Australian Jarrah and a beautiful looking yacht, but the work never ended and the drain on the purse was constant. I am sad she has gone in some aspects but I do not have to worry about BOAT. Bring On Another Thousand. Never a more apt definition ever Uttered. You are a Good Man Sir.
Yep, I’ll definitely do a bookend video to go with that first one.
Mate, really turned a corner in this vid. Well and truely broken the back of the alignment.
Thanks mate. I really felt that way too. I feel it is just a matter of when now rather than how.
@@DangarMarine My thoughts exactly, just about got it cracked.
@@DangarMarine Yip you're now in, "The same Parish " as that Axial Alignment seems very close almost sorted, plus as you have tacked up the Brackets with the Jacking Screws once you have locked them up you will be even able to correct sidewards alignments by releasing half turns on one side while jacking slightly on the other side, Just remember that there needs to be a good Even bite taken up on all four corners allowing the weight spread on the Jacking nuts on those pads, as you can get rocking of the engine if one isn't taking it's fair share of the load... Down that home straight.... Great Work...
The river is running so fast now it looks like you're under way.
@Aluminium workboat project It's the Hawkesbury River, which is an estuary.
Rent, beg, borrow, or steal an Optiline laser alignment tool. Do it perfectly in one shot with the poliflex in place. No need to take it back out again. You can get away with as little as a 91 deg rotation.
I may get a guy in ti do that super fine alignment once it is running. I didn’t feel I could really contract anyone until I had given him or her a good way of doing their job which I feel I have now with all the screw adjustment.
Thanks as always Stu,almost there now. Enjoy your pigeon eggs,,,,,,,,,,,
Love your work as usual mate! BTW, I have got into the habit of doing a toe count each episode :)
The Amish up here in Maine work barefoot. I watched them putting up foundation forms one day, all five of the workmen, barefoot. all five of them, with ten toes. I like my boots, and my shoes... But I cannot stand steel toes.
Nod Nostrebor 🦶🦶👍😉
I learned the hard way, put tack welds where a grinder can get to them!
I hate when that happens. 👍👍👍 :)
I'd be a bit careful of welding & showing exposed skin , just recent had a small skin cancer cut out of the cheek . . which I'm sure was caused by the hundreds of UV burns to the face from being too cheap to buy an auto helmet & just doing tacking by closing my eyes
recently weld sunburned my legs wearing shorts never too old to be stupid...
I don't recall if you marked the prop shaft to see how far out it has been pushed. Could the prop/rope cutter be fouling on something and preventing it from rotating?
A good excuse to get in the water for a look. (at slack water o'clock)
Can the prop be turned by hand or a lever, with the stuffing box loosened?
I'm only 12k miles away in Oldham, would love to help, it's defo a two man job aligning
Congratulations on cresting that huge mental mountain. It really was getting the better of you, but you powered through it all with very impressive results. Now let the spontaneous one liners recommence. Well done!
Thanks mate. Got there in the end! :)
Put some bolts in the coupler lose to help with alignment. It's much easier to get it right. I align my Yamaha GP1200R engine with shims and measure the thickness of the engaged coupler top and bottom and side to side . My engine spins 7500rpms with no vibration, I think you need an extra man to assist.
You are a Bloody Legend Stu, I have followed you all the way back to the start of the project, and even as a Skipper/Engineer and Scuba instructor, You have made me doubt that I will ever take on a Project of this magnitude, Nothing in life comes easy, and Renko is no exception, You are an inspiration Stu, Regards from Cairns. Sam.
Thanks Sam. I’m glad I don’t know what it would take when I started as I probably wouldn’t have begun!
I'm really enjoying following the progress. cheers.
Thanks Gavin. :)
Stu years ago I used to wrestle big block 427/454 Chevrolet motors into tiny Vega drag strip cars, but this boat engine fit is the damnedest deal I’ve ever seen. Your doing it right but WOW!!!!!!! Those are some tight tolerances!!!!
It is quite the squeeze!
Hey Stu lovn the vids on renko but wot has happened to your workshop outboard repairs enjoyed watchn and learning heaps off your knowledge as being a kiwi boaty in nelson nz ....as a past welder owning my own stockcar I'm surprised how you get in there and weld no shoes .shorts .t shirt lols how do manage with the Ray's from this mate well done to you enjoy your site it's great and the chooks as we have them as well crack on chap your a good stick
Workshop is rented out to a different mechanic now.
Sweet! It's lined up so good it looks like you'll have very little fine tuning to do with how close it is. Welding those plates on with the bolts to tweak the alignment is a great idea. You'll have super accurate adjustment that way. Congrats on getting er done
Thanks mate. I feel like I’m over the hurdle now. The fine alignment should be pretty easy.
Great job buddy. Keep going...almost there.
Getting close now. :)
OOF! man, well all I can say is that I am glad I was not there trying to figure this out and that I know you had some reservations about how centered the boat's name was but I didn't notice anything off when you were looking at the back of the Trawler today. Looks great, good luck!.
Hey Stu, would it be easier to drill higher holes in the side of the Raymarine mount instead of cutting a bit off and welding?
No, the ends have very specific mounting brackets on them, not just holes.
A rigged up shade tarp from the wheel house to the back of the boat would be a nice addition to keep you out of the heat. Keep up the great work.
MJW you’re allowed to suggest inanimate white objects with out being racist mate, all your doing is showing us all insecurities around your own race
@@MangoVisionn I think it was a comment about how ridiculous modern PC culture is more so then his personal insecurities, Projecting much?
Brett Young he’s literally partaking in PC culture even if it is being facetious, think about it
@@MangoVisionn I don't think partaking in a culture or ideology for the purpose of mocking it is necessarily a bad thing.
Brett Young - I made the assumption that someone who brings race into a discussion about bloody awnings on boats, hasn’t exactly grasped the concept enough to mock the subject/culture. That may not be a fair assumption but it’s one I made.
I’m a metal guy, not a boat guy. But strictly from a metal/fabrication/mechanic standpoint, the stuff you have done is brilliant. Very creative. Making good use of simple things for elegant solutions.
Thanks Jay.
Hey Stuey, an awful lot of in and out of the engine bay and adjustment all round but it’s good to see that you’ve gotten to the point where you are committing yourself to it, I guess you just need time to mull over all of the variables before you get to the point where you think there’s only so much that can go wrong- a confident educated guess- that’s how we’ve gotten this far as a species haha, good to see it’s coming along so well👍🏴
I hate to say it Stu, but seeing all of the equipment on deck, you're going to need a bigger boat soon...or get the boat stretcher out. 😫😂😜✌️✌️
After thinking about the front to aft adjustment the geometry would not allow much. If you move the engine forward the gap would open at the top where the prop shaft attaches. If you move it aft the bottom would gap out. So basically there is only one sweet spot for perfect fit.
Stu, its a boat, nothing is straight or square or parallel. You have three planes, vertical for and aft, horozantal and vertical port and stbd.Work in one plane first, when that is right work the next, then the next, then go back and tru up the first plane with your fine adjusters then the second, then third, then go backand check it all twice more. Then you can break out the feeler guages and do it all again twice more. Aint boating fun!! Trust me, we are all on your side!
Looking great! My only thought is to inspect the prop and weed cutter before going much further. It is unlikely that the shaft has moved forward during work but it may have moved backwards. Remember you need enough travel aft in the shaft to get the flange nut to clear the poly bushing during removal. (The nut and shaft Should have been flush or recessed.) The cutlass bearing will self adjust to any minor thick areas of the prop shaft as long as it has water present and the initial revs are kept low for a while. If you want a good sanity check on your alignment try installing the rest of the poly bolts. If they all thread in easy your alignment should be close and the Mark One Eyeball can get surprisingly close. :D
I’m looking forward to getting the rest of the bolts in and seeing how easily they start.
Big ups for the "Honor Harrington" handle.
Nike's bridge was hazed with thin smoke, eddying towards the holed bulkheads and the bottomless hunger of vacuum beyond. Electrical fires blazed unchecked, Astrogation was so much blasted wreckage, and bodies littered the deck. Edward Saganami's face was streaked with blood as he faced the pickup, and more blood coated his vac suit's right side as it pulsed from a deep wound in his shoulder. The tactical display was still up behind him. Its icons and damage sidebars and the lurid damage codes on the damage control schematic flickered and wavered as its power fluctuated. But they were still there, still showed the other battlecruiser maneuvering for the final, fatal shot Nike could no longer avoid.
"We're done, James," Saganami said. His voice was hoarse, harsh with pain and the exhaustion of blood loss, yet his expression was almost calm. "Tell the Queen. Tell her what my people did. And tell her I'm sor-"
The simulator went black. There was utter silence in the lightless auditorium. And then, slowly, one final image appeared. It was the golden cross and starburst of the Parliamentary Medal of Valor on its blue, white, and red ribbon. The same colors gleamed among the ribbons on Dame Honor's chest, but this Medal of Valor was different. It was the very first PMV ever awarded, and it hung before them for perhaps twenty seconds.
And then the lights came up once more, and Lady Dame Honor Harrington, Commanding Officer of the newly reactivated Eighth Fleet, Manticoran Alliance, looked out over the Royal Manticoran Naval Academy's four hundred and eleventh senior class. They looked back at her, and she inhaled deeply.
"Ladies and Gentlemen," she said, her soprano voice ringing out clear and strong, "the tradition lives!"
@@MargaretLeber It gets a nod or a wink every now and then from those who know but it's such an ordinary name that it never inspires interest in those who don't recognise it. Kinda wanted to guide others to read the books. Military SciFi is such a small readership.
Nice work, it looks like you aligned it alone, well done, maybe a laser alignment tool might help as well, pointing at both shaft until straight.
Cheers from the Netherlands.
Silly question, but what happened to the original engine mounts? I assumed that once the detroit came back it could be just dropped into place.
It's a shame you dont have room for a constant velocity joint, best wishes, Steve in Thailand.
Good video as always,enjoy watching what your doing. Thank you for bring us along.
I told you to raise the starboard aft mount to put weight on the fore port one, but I dont think you could hear me, lol. You have terrier like tenacity, Stu. Wrestling heavy iron in a sun baked steel box is an unenviable task, but you're winning the match, slow but sure!
Thanks mate!
Wish I lived closer. Don't know how much real work I could do but, a second set of eyes and someone on the main deck prying here and there sure seems like it would make the job easier.
Ahh a Rake fan - free Cleaver Green tee - excellent
Coming along nicely Stu. Just keep working :) , sweating like a pig i mean, it'l all pay of .. it's not a 500 kilo jobby,
You've got to have some TOUGH feet m8! 🤣 welding barefoot and climbing all around Renko! Whew!!! Love your vids!
Stu, get yourself a Dremel, those little suckers are great for getting into places, where nothing else will fit. Great tools for detailed work.
I believe alignment is best done when afloat. It is common practice to disconnect the flange just before a hull is placed on a hard standing. Inevitably the hull distorts and often the flanges will move out of alignment. This saves bending the prop shaft. It depends of course on shaft length and build.
I dont think NASA put that much engineering into their rockets as you are with simple engine mounts 🙄.
When the fun stops, stop! Or alternatively press on like Stu and you might turn a real corner!
hi stu I know its hard work doin thing and especially in that heat and on your own but still enjoying all your vids even better with the new camera keep goin mate you will get there you look like you have that excitement on your face now for the start up well done stu another great vid
millimeter by millimeter by millimeter by millimeter .... Drink! ... millimeter by millimeter by millimeter by millimeter ... Drink! Good on ye! We get closer every week!
How many coopers to finish that job,Stu???
getting the coupling aligned is critical and worth the effort you are putting in to get it rite. having the emergency shut off flap working is so important to saving the engine in case of a run away.
STAY SRONG STU I'M BEHIND YOU! i'LL BE WATCHING . DAVE
Love this weeks shirt Stu! You need a photo of Cleaver Green to go up with Steve Zissou.
Hey Dangarous Stu the chook whisperer :) Good to see you come up with a plan on those mounts. Bet you're feeling more encouraged now. "Slowly slowly catchy monkey" they say.
Well done Stu! I like the idea of the lateral jacking bolts.
Hey mate,
I was so sad to see all the boats down on Thursday when i drove around dangar Island area (was in the area doing a building quote, little Quintrex).
Was really surprised to see the tide speed, crazy fast.
Very cleaver idea with the jack screws, must be hard moving that beast of a motor by yourself.
Keep up the good work!
Glenno
Hey Glenn, sorry to be in such a rush when I saw you, was already running late!
Too easy mate, not a problem.
Cheers,
Glenno
About half way through, I thought I heard a hint of desperation in your voice, but all's well that ends well. And in real time, you may be cruising and smiling. Do all three of the chooks lay?
Currently just one is laying. Each has a different colour egg so it is easy to keep track.
That was a milestone in my opinion, congratulations. Nice shirt by the way - juststu it!
Love the Cleaver Green tee shirt Stu! Nice job on the mounts too!
Never any harm buying more bolts,or screws. Took me years of overbuying but now I haven't purchased bolts or screws for couple years, and I use some almost every day.
It’s so far to the hardware store from here that I always buy every size might possibly need. :)
I think I just watch for D Squad Reports. Oh and I forgot to mention your im peck able sense of humour. Great to see your breaking the back of this one.
Thanks Tim. :)
Hi there! Great following your work Stu! Best channel on UA-cam and possibly the most interesting problem at the World Wide Web for the moment! Could anyone (Stu preferably) try to explain the method here? I’m sort of confused... From this, is the plan to pull the prop-shaft out a tiny bit to take out the bushing / coupler? Then sliding the prop-shaft forward so that you can fit a meter / gauge (excuse my bad English) in between? Then refit the bushing and slide the prop-shaft back into place??? If so, how do we know that the shaft (or the bearing) is perfectly straight? Doesn’t the measuring need to be done exactly at the right distance (prop-shaft/engine)? Just trying to get my head around this... There must be an easier way...
Keep up the good work, cheers!!
Commenting myself... What I mean is that the polyflex-coupling looks to be around 2-3 cm (1 inch) thick and the "metal to metal" alignment might no be true once you slide the shaft back to where its supposed to be with the coupler installed.... I'm sure you've thought about this and there's reason for doing this way, just curious...
If the two faces are parallel they should remain parallel when the distance is increased.
@@DangarMarine Guess that's true. Then you'll need to both move and turn either it (the axle) or the engine quite freely . Jus trying to figure out some other way of aligning so that you don´t have to struggle with axle and bearing again.. Thinking of lasers and other modern things but on the other hand, maybe it´s for the better to free the axle. Who knows what would happen after a couple of hours running-rime with the bearing being tight as it is..?
Remember .. a 3 legged stool always has 3 legs on the floor ... a 4 legged stool always has one leg not quite pressing ... so ignore one of the mounts, make it loose as a loose thing, then use the remaining 3 for the alignment, when it is right, just snug up the last mount.
Shaft alignment is a very specialized skill set, I think. Highly paid. So you deserve at least a six-pack of your favorite
Aussie beer. Another one, I mean. Keep pluggin', Brother Stu.
Thanks Lee.
It's a mission for one guy
You know, as you were messing with the jack plates to align the coupling I am sitting here trying to look around the edge of the coupling to see if it was moving. I turned it into an interactive video. I just could not help myself, I was in the hole with you. It is looking pretty good so far and I think you should mess around and finish up the rest of the plumbing to be safe. The main deck could use a bit of tidying up, especially with no shoes on. I think you aRE SPOT ON ABOUT A HINGE FOR THE HOLE COVER.
I have no idea what you are doing but I am hooked on your channel.
“Cut, cut. Drill, drill. Tap, tap. Weld.” ... lather, rinse, repeat.
8:22 "Far Out!" ...Don't you mean "Gee Golly Gosh"?
l am a bit late getting here...Sorry about that mate.....Looks like you are getting close to what you need.....Lots of hard work and all.....Thanks for the update my friend.....From Kentucky USA...!
Thanks Steve!
Frustrating to have to sit and watch and not be able to be there to give you a hand.
Getting there, yes. One day at a time. Cheers.
Cool. Another step closer Stu. Thanks for the presentation mate. Nice one
Just a thought on why one of the mounts was “free” . 1 Tripod. You only need three points to stabilise an object. I can go into more detail but I’m sure you get it. 2 Points. Your bolts are not points. The bolt’s nut has a diameter of about 20mm and is flat. One is probably enough to hold the engine in place in the scenario you encountered . As you changed the weight on the other mounts, by screwing , and their location, by hammer tapping , the weight came back onto the fourth one. Just my thoughts. We all greatly appreciate your work an even though I have boats down here in melb, I am “ messing around on boats” vicariously through you. Thanks again
Another great video. Thank you for posting! I have a couple small tugboats that are old logging tugs, I am currently repowering one with a 6.354 perkins. The old engine is a Lister FR4
Good luck with your project, they sound like interesting boats.
When you're feelin burned out, just put the tools down and take the mental health time you need to re-boot...Good show!
HelloStu, that was really heavy work. Looking forward to seeing this part all the way finished. Cheers mate!
Great idea Stu. The more adjustment the better with such a heavy engine and box. Really coming along now. Several well earned beers deserved. Thanks for sharing
I’m refurbishing my Volvo Penta 40b, pulling it up an down in my Nimbus 800. It only weighs 500kilos. I would cry if it was 1 ton like yours. Keep up the Good work, and Thanks for another cool video!👍😎
Thanks mate.
Saw your dive tanks which reminded me of my trip to Auz, dived and stayed with Deep 6 from Jervis bay. My dive master from the UK passed his IDC in Auz and got a job with them. Bill and Julia ran it then.
Helped him out with some training with the big classes. Stayed in oak flats with my mums cousins who like my mum and dad have passed on. The bracket worked out well
Can't be easy to accomplish in those cramped quarters.
..fine tuning means fine, smoother running ,good idea ..great vid...
The tig torch plug is called an aviation plug connector. My cigweld is an mq8 8 pin m12 panel mount. Cheap on ebay but expensive via cigweld.
Thanks mate, always good to have a specific term to search for!
Detroits hold a special place in my heart, as it was one of the first engines I had to work on in the Army (the 3-53). I really love watching your videos, and you answered the question I had about the coolant. There are no stupid questions, but I am an inquisitive idiot....is the water in the bilge from the storm?
Water in the bilge is from the stern gland leaking a bit when I back it off.
i know it's easy for me to say...but that really seemed to go pretty good? gotta say though, that's one tricky job. And Roger Lord makes a whole pile of sense...you may be alone in the boat but you're sure as heck not alone in this journey! lovin every minute of it!! (who did that one??) Thanks again for sharing!!
Thanks Mark.
That Rake t shirt is epic! “Free Cleaver Greene” 😂
Gas struts can be gotten cheaply from a used car lot, but they don't last all that long and just form another obstruction in the opening of the hatch. welding up a cement filled and capped off length of 75 to 100 mm pipe outboard of the hinges should give you a 'no moving parts' counter weight that will allow ease of opening. You'd have to experiment with the weight factor, but you should be able to scrape the parts together on the cheap. In the way? put it below deck with 'bell crank' levers attached to the underside of the lid... Or go with the struts, It's easy to make suggestions that require a lot of work when you're sitting in a comfy chair sipping a brew...
I do like the idea of simple weights that make opening it easier. The less things that can break and need servicing the better!
One step closer Stu ! Great video !
Your getting there slow but sure, good on ya
Looking good!! I am really positive that it will all be perfect. If you are worried about the vertical alignment of the engine, maybe adding a plumb line to the front will show that up.
I was saying at screen, tack them in, tack them in :D
Thanks mate.
When you finally get the boat as level as you want it, mount a circular bubble gauge on the helm so you can tell in the future if you're trimmed up properly for rough weather. Considering how small she actually is, having stowage properly mounted and trimmed will make cruising so much easier and safer...
Yes, I do think being able to keep an eye on the trim will make the boat safer at sea.
Sorry Stu, I chuckled as you were fighting with the loose mount. I know you are use to wrenching on cars, outboards and sterndrives. Inboards are a different cat when it comes to alignment. The engine doesn't flex and the boat doesn't flex... so the mounts have to. ;-)
It takes some practice to get the weight balanced on each mount set, be it the front set or the aft set. I use to use the amount of pull on the wrench to lift the motor as a gauge of how much load was on the mount.
I hope this gives you a bit of help with your beast.
Well said !!
Good tip for judging the weight each mount is carrying. I have been thinking about how to judge that.
@@DangarMarine you can go as far as using a beam torque wrench and a crow's foot wrench, or a pull scale on the end of a combination wrench. I did it both ways.
One sailboats I worked on had just three mount. On on each side of the bellhousing and one center front of the engine... boy that one was easy to do an alignment on. If I remember right it was a Fairyman engine and trans, it was a little v-twin diesel. It was a cute engine set-up.
Finally making some progress, well done. Dont want to sound like the safety police, but having your dive cylinders standing up is very dangerous and bad practice... rather for now lay them down for now until you get to fit a rack to strap them into... If one of those fall and the valve gets a knock it can be a potential bomb... Good luck with the rest of the build...
Yes, they are normally lashed to the bulwark.
Stu,, as a professional photography, I’m impressed with the video quality you put out and I’m curious if you are using the new gopro.
Yes, GoPro Hero 8.
Awesome job Stu! Good progress without going overboard so to speak. Noticed you fixed the really cool Ship's Clock - good on you!
If you're trying to even the weight on a four point mount, you have to jack the mount diagonally opposite the loose one, or loosen the mount directly opposite the loose one, (to front or rear). The crankshaft will slope to match the prop shaft. The engine should be vertical side to side.
I hope the prop flange face is "perfectly" perpendicular to the shaft. If I understand correctly, you can't spin the prop to tell since the new packing is too tight? How many Nm is it going to take to spin it, could you do it with a lever?
Yes, I could spin it grabbing the prop while it was out of the water.
Keep going as nothing easy will be a rewarding as finishing the restoration project you have taken on.......i always have a restoration project on the go from a 40 year old Land Rover Lightweight to the currant project which is a 65 year old Austin K9 radio body army lorry.....I find that a little often will get it done as giving up my whole days off makes me not enjoy the process, plus anyone can just go out and buy a new one or pay someone to do it for them but where is the fun in that. Keep at it you on the home straight. Tony England.
I think you are right Tony, a little bit of progress often is a great way to tackle these projects.
Half way through the vid I wanted to get on a plane and give you a hand. Looks like things are coming into line now.
Got there in the end!
At one time I was a structural welder. When welding mounts, if you skip a small section of the weld, that is leaving a small gap, it will stop any cracks that may occur from vibration from running across the entire weld.
Interesting, thanks for sharing your tip!
Can't believe l actually tilted my head to get a better angle to check the alignment. Oh well.
Not far now Stu, keep your chin up mate. It is always a trial at this time of year with the heat and humidity, but look how far you have come. Someone said to me 43 years ago when I was starting out with mine, "Boats are for Goats, they are a hole in the water you just keep throwing money into" they may be right, but boy, on a good day there is nothing better than messing about in boats. I like your work Stu, and your tenacity. Cheers mate.
Thanks Bruce. I’m sure all the effort will feel worthwhile as I’m cruising up the coast. :)
Great bit of progress on the Detroitis with this one. The Jack screws look to have made a big difference! Looking forward to exhaust, coolant and wiring next no doubt. :)
Yes, they've certainly made it much easier to make fine adjustments.
Fascinating how many problems can be solved with the judicious application of an angle grinder.
Indeed. Metal where it shouldn't be? Crack out the grinder!
Enjoying every one of your videos Stu, always looking forward to the new ones! Really appreciate you taking us along for the ride
Thanks mate. :)
Stu as we say here in America ( looks good from my house) LOL this is in reference to that 5 thousands of an inch coupler and prop shaft connection. Fight through the boredom fight through the pain we are pulling for you
Thanks mate.