It should be noted that depending on where the head of your light ends up in could leave your light to be hit with the concussive blast(s) from your rifle. So the advice is to keep the light as far forward as you can without unnecessarily exposing the light to concussive blasts. This is especially true if you have a compensator.
@A Guy if you have a decent light that doesn't matter. My 600DF has been on my rifle for the last 4k rounds with a SF socom brake. The head actually is infront of the brake by 1/8" or so. In fact the reputable brands test and design their weaponlights for this exact abuse. It's one of the differences between a weaponlight and flashlight (also beam pattern).
If you buy a high quality light like Cloud Defensive or others make it isn't an issue. They're specifically designed to resist the concussion. @@DeathxThexKid100
Hi Caleb, I enjoy each and every one of your videos, whether solo or with your equally-knowledgable comrades. This video was informative and confirmed my instinctive mounting strategy perfectly.
I had a pretty sweet light setup on my M4 in the military. I used a vertical foregrip and we had Novatac lights, but the pressure switches broke easily. So I used the tail button. I mounted the button just in front of where my knuckle would be on the foregrip. To turn on the light, all I had to do was flex my hand on the grip.
I really like just running a surefire G2 with a push button tail cap using the odin works mlock mount. Tucks it nicely in the corner at the 10:30 position for my left thumb to press. Total setup for about $100 and is super ergonomic.
For Righty - Due to shadows and right handed shooters being right eye dominant, the tac light best to go on left side tight to the vented handguard at the 11 o'clock just to rear of muzzle break / flash hider openings. Many prefer using button cap over tape switch to prevent accidental illumination. If you prefer tape switch mount to top rail for access be left hand.
That tan upper receiver with everything else black reminds me of the cars sometimes seen with one door that is a different color than the rest of the vehicle.
Muzzle blast is why i mount my light under the barrel with the lense under the muzzle. Most times theres no ports there for blast to hit the lense. Plus it centers the light in correlation to the barrel so there is minimum shadowing from the muzzle.
Great content and great hair. I’m going to get that mount. I’ve heard high speed guys saying they run their CQB carbines with the outside slick to prevent snags. I’ve also heard a couple say they don’t like pressure pads cause it’s too easy to accidentally hit your light and give your position away. I did my basic and AIT in 68 so I plead ignorance with all mounting options.
Usually, if pressure pads are used, they're purposely put in a spot that makes them harder to accidentally hit. A lot of "highspeed" guys will stay with a push button though, because that requires deliberate, intentional force to turn on.
You really need to bear down on the pressure pad for it to go off. You'll see alot of people stretch a Ranger band over the pressure pad and hand guard to help actually make it easier to actuate the pressure pad. You absolutely DO NOT want your pressure pad in a spot that purposely makes it harder to engage like dude above me said.... That defeats the entire purpose and adds more layers to operation. You want it to be seamless and purposely incorporated into your support grip. If you're running a white light and IR / laser setup then things can get complicated but only for those that don't train with their gear properly. No tool, system, switch, bolt catch, etc should ever be put on your rifle unless you intend on first becoming efficient with the system before applying it to its intended purpose.
@@TerminalM193 some SF guys I’ve seen only use the positive on/off switch tailcaps on their white lights because they are always operating at night and using a peq. The last thing you want is a light ND that gives away your position.
@@Ultimate_sir I use a bunji cap for that very reason. Easy to disengage the cap when necessary and doesn't let an ounce of light out if you ND, even in pitch black.... I would imagine someone using thermals could possibly see an ND with the cap on but then again if you're going ul against someone with thermals you have MUCH bigger fish to fry than a simple white light ND.
I would add that a weapon light is a secondary light only to be used on target. For general searching of an area when friendlies may be; a dedicated primary light that is independent of a firearm is a better idea.
Informative video for me, as I'm left eye dominant, as well. Your demonstration of the light on both the left & right sides is what I needed to know. I've got a touch pad and that gives me more versatility. Thanks.
I really like that setup with the tight to the barrel at 10:30 (1:30 for me) mount and pressure pad. Caleb got me thinking about that in an earlier video and it still looks snag free (relatively speaking). Right now I use an INFORCE Gen2 WML mounted at 3:00. That’s about as low profile as you can get for a rail mounted light. Left thumb on switch is very ergonomic for me. A plus for me is that the INFORCE light mount is quick detach so I can take it off to put the firearm in a case, for range use, etc. However, Caleb’s point about a top-mounted pressure switch working with either hand has me thinking.
I'm new to shooting hobby. I'm also a lefty and a righty.....I just got a tact light for my bullpup shotgun and wasn't sure where to mount the light but this help my alot! Thanks!
Glad you mentioned that you are left handed because so am I. I have an AR15 with left side mounted light and an AR9 with right side mounted light because my upper is a forward side charger and I like the charging handle on the left, go figure. I am kind of ambidextrous so I do train "off hand" in lie of just left handed. Thanks for posting!
You always want to keep lights and the such on trigger finger side if possible OR on the side of your dominant eye, that way you have as little interfering with your opposing eye since we all should be practicing and mastering both eyes open and on target.
@@TerminalM193 dominant eye? It's a rifle with a red dot. You need to forget about that dominant eye garbage and train both sides of your body, left handed shooting and right handed. Eye dominance is brain confusion.
@@didamnesia3575 You completely misread my comment. I indicated that very thing... Nomatter how much you train you will still have a dominant viewing perspective unless you're one of the rare and true 2.8% of true ambidextrous users and most will even argue still due to the fact that it's almost physically impossible to have perfect and equal 20-20 or better vision. This isn't some wild shit I've made up either.... Most special ops treat the subject as a rule rather than an option but those guys like to squeeze out and optimize use down to the decimal. I used to have a good bit of bias myself, even on very specific options until I was given the opportunity to take a course put on by some higher end operators and trainers at Quantico. I was able to learn more in that two day class than in the past 5 years and actually was able to apply the new skills with success to then be later approved upon on my own time and practice. Also, don't ever typecast yourself on just one optic platform. Becoming efficient on other visual options like rds+mag, acog & LPVO will actually help further your proficiency on any given option more-so than dedicated practice across just 1 optic platform. Someone coming from a strict practice of both eyes open from a red dot is going to struggle applying the practice across other optic platforms but with dedicated practice across the board you'll find that when going back to your preferred choice that you can see noticeable improvement and an easier means of incorporating that practice into other avenues like proper footwork, low & high presentations, holdover/under practice etc etc etc.....
Tip from a friend of mine (special forces weapons sergeant): according to him you are correct, mount the light on the right side if you are a righty. But his simple reasoning is that a combatant is going to instinctively shoot the light. If it was on the left that means it is lined up with your head/chest. You can do the math on that. Seemed pretty obvious after he said that.
Left eye dominant isn't weird. We are fabulous people. Lol. Something a bit weird, I shoot long gun left and a handgun right, leaning my head over to use the left eye.
Some lights have pressure switches and some don’t . Some have BOTH pressure switches AND a button/toggle switch. I like these because you have a backup in the event the pressure pad fails or you somehow sever the wire. Pressure pads are best placed along the top rail because you will be able to activate it with either the left or right hand. If you are training enough, you should be practicing your shooting with both your dominate and non-dominate sides. Finally, one thing which gets neglected is speaking about the adequate number of lumens and rechargeable vs non-rechargeable systems. Along those lines, you should be considering spare batteries and where to keep them. This can also help you decide on the best optics which, if chosen carefully, should use the same batteries as the light. That way, you don’t have to store different batteries. Magpul’s ACS-L series of adjustable stocks has storage compartments for up to 6 CR123a batteries and a smaller compartment for wrenches, oil or other parts. Their STR series provides storage for up to 4 CR123a batteries but lacks the other storage compartment.
On the first rifle...its a little to close to the muzzle for my taste.... personally I mount my lights at the 6 o'clock position except on my shotgun...the sling would interfere with it.
I’m righty and left eye dominant too ! Not a problem shooting long gun, I shoot righty but I bit more complicated shooting handgun. Actually, that would be a good subject for a video. Righty with cross eye dominant, share your experience with us.
You didn't mention mounting position also determines how much of the light will be blocked by the gun. Too far back and you'll have a big shadowed area where the light won't be shining.
that's pretty self explanatory, I don't think he needed to explain how putting things in front of a light will block the light. unless you needed a reminder 😅
Shadow is easy to overlook while finding the sweet spot in a well-lit room. Nothing is “in front” of the light, but half the light pattern is gone when the light is parked “next to” the forearm. Shadow can’t be avoided, have to choose which part of your FOV won’t be lit.
I mount my light on the bottom rail flush with the end of the hand guard as I can lay the gun in my range bag on either side without worrying about the light. No pressure pad; takes a second to turn the light on.
Do you put something on the lens to make cleaning powder off easier? Years ago I was told to put chapstick on the lens before practicing or training, that way you just wipe the lens clean. I have done this ever since and my lenses stay nice and clear. However, if there is a better way, I'd love to know it.
I just rub a thin coat of gun oil on the lens before shooting and it'll wipe right off...the carbon sticks to the oil instead of the lens, it does get dirtier faster but cleaning is way easier so you have to decide if the tradeoff is worth it for you
I tried mounting mine on the left and the right side and I found it distracting looking down range. Mounted it on the bottom just aft of the muzzle break and that works great for me. I don't even have to use the pressure pad.
With a vehicle grip and a right eye dominant shooter it should still be on the left side if no pressure pad. Vehicle grip C clamp. No one monkey grips a vertical grip
Hello Petr from the Czech Republic. I like your videos. I have a question. On this particular rifle from the video, I see if I'm not mistaken, the magazine release is on both sides, is that right? What brand is this please?
A touch of wax or even Chapstick on a light lens will let you wipe off the crud. I use Obenauf's but some use other stuff. KY Jelly probably won't last long enough, oddly enough. 😁
I'm ex infantry, been using WMLS for decades. IMO, 12 o'clock is by far the best mounting location. 2 primary reasons: It's fully ambidextrous with no wires, and it will shine past barriers on both sides of the weapon. I hate 1 o'clock mount and tape switches. Hate them.
Freedom by Me Do you put it at the very end of the rail? I like your train of thought but want to make sure I understand also. That seems to be a good spot and not on the side of the weapon.
I carry self-cling medical "tape" in my trauma kit. Works good in a crunch and leaves no residue. One of the best tips I ever got was to try Gaffer's Tape. Its been used by the movie industry for years by "gaffers"/electricians so its time proven. Every bit as adhesive as old duct tape but does not leave residue. It also rips easier. More expensive but its benefits justify it for me.
I bought two stream lights and they both came with the mlok mount. Neither one fits flush on my hand guard. I have the fn15 tac 3with the stock mlok hand guard. Frustrating.
newbie here... what is the name of that vice that he has the firearm mounted on. I am looking up "gunsmithing vice" and the such but can't find anything that fits that specific style where it just sits on the magazine well.... anyone help a dude out?
Going cheap I used Weaver scope rings especially with 1" diameter lights. Low, medium or high ring depended on the light's head size. Since my early days of tinkering with AR's I've tried more "tactical" mounts. They work as well as Weaver rings unless you demand quick detachable. This is just my opinion but the light and its switch is the #1 concern. Light holder not so much..
@@claytonatkinson865 - true that.. I like to obsess for perfection in finding the WML’s sweet spot.. The spot should firstly allow proper manipulation, while minimizing shadow-spill as much as possible. I suppose I consider scorching & residue lastly of the 3. 🤘🏼😎
I'd be more concerned with circuitry getting damaged. Lens can be replaced but circuitry is too technical for me. I know there avid flashlight fans who constantly change up all kinds of super tech stuff to boost output or change cast, etc.
@@p99shooter Pressure pads solve for awkward light placement. There's nothing wrong with keeping the light just outside the reach of any kind of muzzle device. The only time barrel shadow even has a slight hindrance is when they're way back on a carbine length handguard on a 16"+ barrel, and even then the shadow is still far enough outside of reticle focus.
Opposed to using what part of the rifle as the brace point? If you mean by using the furthest point of the handguard right behind the muzzle then that's a horrible spot and the light would actually help in that regard. I make sure to tuck the light as close to the rail as possible to allow easier access to major brace points.
I have found that a cheap solution for a gun light that works in a pinch is using a Harbor Freight pen light with the pocket clip attached through the mood slots. It also has a tail cap switch. Caleb's set ups are absolutely far superior but for home defense with no prolonged shooting sessions and living with a very tight budget. It's better than nothing. $15 vs $100. This works until you can afford a light system that is much better.
Rob Davidson That's completely understandable on the affordability. Many can't run out a buy $300 - $400 dollar Surefire and a $100 - $150 mount. Some of us have to make do or do the best we can.
Well you can get the same set up in the video light and mount for 150 to 175 depending on which power light you want. I perfer the protac rail mount 1 on sale often for under 100. Midwest mount around 40. But not at Brownells they never have sales worth a crap anymore.
@@MAGAMAN I have to agree with you about the Harbor Freight tools. Don't know how many scars I have acquired from the Harbor Freight wrench breaking thus running my knuckles into something hard and sharp under my truck which leads me jump in pain which leads me to thump my head up and down hitting the concrete and the bottom several times....Buster Keaton had life easy.
Caleb, in a similar vein - but on the other end of the rail, I am curious whether you have any advice for the eye relief variance when using a red dot accompanied by a magnifier. I want to locate the red dot and magnifier so that eye relief is good whether using it with or without the magnifier. I just traded in an old did Eotech Inc. 551 for a 50% discount on a replacement and I’m unsure how to mount the setup for optimal eye relief. I’m using it on a BRN-180 with an 18” barrel. So I’m curious whether I should mount the 3X magnifier so that the eyepiece is flush with the rear rail, or with it mounted as far to the rear possible on the rail with the eyepiece hanging back over the hinge of the folding stock? thanks and take care.
@@x-calibearusallc Sure, that is true with an AR-15/10, but if you recall me saying I am using the BRN-180, whose reciprocating charging handle is on the right side and that makes this a non-issue with my setup.
@@maximummarklee the general rule for magnifiers is mount it as far back as possible on the top rail, but experiment with how you naturally position yourself when bringing the gun up into a fire position and place the magnifier so that you are able to see through it immediately and don't have to fish around to line it up with your eye
Midwest industries offset m lok surefire light mount. Light needs to be a surefire or surefire mounting foot print. Arisaka and BCM have similar mounts.
Hello, how is the pressure pad mounted to the top pic rail? I don’t see any Velcro straps holding it down. Looks pretty slick. Please inform. Thank you
Mounting the light as far forward as possible also reduces the amount of shadow thrown from the barrel/handguard.
It should be noted that depending on where the head of your light ends up in could leave your light to be hit with the concussive blast(s) from your rifle.
So the advice is to keep the light as far forward as you can without unnecessarily exposing the light to concussive blasts.
This is especially true if you have a compensator.
@A Guy if you have a decent light that doesn't matter. My 600DF has been on my rifle for the last 4k rounds with a SF socom brake. The head actually is infront of the brake by 1/8" or so.
In fact the reputable brands test and design their weaponlights for this exact abuse. It's one of the differences between a weaponlight and flashlight (also beam pattern).
Thanks for this additional consideration, I'll use this info on my project.
lmao the pile of crap you hear on these platforms lol@@asymsolutions
If you buy a high quality light like Cloud Defensive or others make it isn't an issue. They're specifically designed to resist the concussion. @@DeathxThexKid100
Guilty as charged for having the bell of light too close to my muzzle brake. Thanks for setting me straight Caleb
Hi Caleb, I enjoy each and every one of your videos, whether solo or with your equally-knowledgable comrades. This video was informative and confirmed my instinctive mounting strategy perfectly.
I had a pretty sweet light setup on my M4 in the military. I used a vertical foregrip and we had Novatac lights, but the pressure switches broke easily. So I used the tail button. I mounted the button just in front of where my knuckle would be on the foregrip. To turn on the light, all I had to do was flex my hand on the grip.
UA-cam totally preventing me from liking this post. Liking here!
I really like just running a surefire G2 with a push button tail cap using the odin works mlock mount. Tucks it nicely in the corner at the 10:30 position for my left thumb to press. Total setup for about $100 and is super ergonomic.
For Righty - Due to shadows and right handed shooters being right eye dominant, the tac light best to go on left side tight to the vented handguard at the 11 o'clock just to rear of muzzle break / flash hider openings. Many prefer using button cap over tape switch to prevent accidental illumination. If you prefer tape switch mount to top rail for access be left hand.
That tan upper receiver with everything else black reminds me of the cars sometimes seen with one door that is a different color than the rest of the vehicle.
Its bugging me lol
Muzzle blast is why i mount my light under the barrel with the lense under the muzzle. Most times theres no ports there for blast to hit the lense. Plus it centers the light in correlation to the barrel so there is minimum shadowing from the muzzle.
Great content and great hair. I’m going to get that mount. I’ve heard high speed guys saying they run their CQB carbines with the outside slick to prevent snags. I’ve also heard a couple say they don’t like pressure pads cause it’s too easy to accidentally hit your light and give your position away. I did my basic and AIT in 68 so I plead ignorance with all mounting options.
Usually, if pressure pads are used, they're purposely put in a spot that makes them harder to accidentally hit. A lot of "highspeed" guys will stay with a push button though, because that requires deliberate, intentional force to turn on.
You really need to bear down on the pressure pad for it to go off. You'll see alot of people stretch a Ranger band over the pressure pad and hand guard to help actually make it easier to actuate the pressure pad. You absolutely DO NOT want your pressure pad in a spot that purposely makes it harder to engage like dude above me said.... That defeats the entire purpose and adds more layers to operation. You want it to be seamless and purposely incorporated into your support grip. If you're running a white light and IR / laser setup then things can get complicated but only for those that don't train with their gear properly. No tool, system, switch, bolt catch, etc should ever be put on your rifle unless you intend on first becoming efficient with the system before applying it to its intended purpose.
@@TerminalM193 some SF guys I’ve seen only use the positive on/off switch tailcaps on their white lights because they are always operating at night and using a peq. The last thing you want is a light ND that gives away your position.
@@Ultimate_sir I use a bunji cap for that very reason. Easy to disengage the cap when necessary and doesn't let an ounce of light out if you ND, even in pitch black.... I would imagine someone using thermals could possibly see an ND with the cap on but then again if you're going ul against someone with thermals you have MUCH bigger fish to fry than a simple white light ND.
@@TerminalM193 oh that’s really neat I’ve never heard of that
I would add that a weapon light is a secondary light only to be used on target.
For general searching of an area when friendlies may be; a dedicated primary light that is independent of a firearm is a better idea.
Great tips! And DANG that long MI handguard looks cool on your rifle. Might have to get one for my own build. Much love from Texas!
Informative video for me, as I'm left eye dominant, as well. Your demonstration of the light on both the left & right sides is what I needed to know. I've got a touch pad and that gives me more versatility. Thanks.
I really like that setup with the tight to the barrel at 10:30 (1:30 for me) mount and pressure pad. Caleb got me thinking about that in an earlier video and it still looks snag free (relatively speaking).
Right now I use an INFORCE Gen2 WML mounted at 3:00. That’s about as low profile as you can get for a rail mounted light. Left thumb on switch is very ergonomic for me. A plus for me is that the INFORCE light mount is quick detach so I can take it off to put the firearm in a case, for range use, etc. However, Caleb’s point about a top-mounted pressure switch working with either hand has me thinking.
I'm new to shooting hobby. I'm also a lefty and a righty.....I just got a tact light for my bullpup shotgun and wasn't sure where to mount the light but this help my alot! Thanks!
Digging that War Sport LVOA look, Caleb!!
Nice Caleb. Solid info on light mounting.
Glad you mentioned that you are left handed because so am I. I have an AR15 with left side mounted light and an AR9 with right side mounted light because my upper is a forward side charger and I like the charging handle on the left, go figure. I am kind of ambidextrous so I do train "off hand" in lie of just left handed. Thanks for posting!
As a righty I still put it on the right so I can keep the left side smooth which is against my body when it's slung in front.
Me too and sling considerations was a prime reason. But I do have a vertical grip and the pressure pad is on that grip.
You always want to keep lights and the such on trigger finger side if possible OR on the side of your dominant eye, that way you have as little interfering with your opposing eye since we all should be practicing and mastering both eyes open and on target.
@@TerminalM193 dominant eye? It's a rifle with a red dot. You need to forget about that dominant eye garbage and train both sides of your body, left handed shooting and right handed. Eye dominance is brain confusion.
@@didamnesia3575 You completely misread my comment. I indicated that very thing... Nomatter how much you train you will still have a dominant viewing perspective unless you're one of the rare and true 2.8% of true ambidextrous users and most will even argue still due to the fact that it's almost physically impossible to have perfect and equal 20-20 or better vision. This isn't some wild shit I've made up either.... Most special ops treat the subject as a rule rather than an option but those guys like to squeeze out and optimize use down to the decimal. I used to have a good bit of bias myself, even on very specific options until I was given the opportunity to take a course put on by some higher end operators and trainers at Quantico. I was able to learn more in that two day class than in the past 5 years and actually was able to apply the new skills with success to then be later approved upon on my own time and practice. Also, don't ever typecast yourself on just one optic platform. Becoming efficient on other visual options like rds+mag, acog & LPVO will actually help further your proficiency on any given option more-so than dedicated practice across just 1 optic platform. Someone coming from a strict practice of both eyes open from a red dot is going to struggle applying the practice across other optic platforms but with dedicated practice across the board you'll find that when going back to your preferred choice that you can see noticeable improvement and an easier means of incorporating that practice into other avenues like proper footwork, low & high presentations, holdover/under practice etc etc etc.....
Tip from a friend of mine (special forces weapons sergeant): according to him you are correct, mount the light on the right side if you are a righty. But his simple reasoning is that a combatant is going to instinctively shoot the light. If it was on the left that means it is lined up with your head/chest. You can do the math on that. Seemed pretty obvious after he said that.
Left eye dominant isn't weird. We are fabulous people. Lol. Something a bit weird, I shoot long gun left and a handgun right, leaning my head over to use the left eye.
Broke my arm too many times when I was young. Just learned to shoot rifles left handed while in a cast.. shoot pistols right-handed as well.
Good content,also Caleb you aren't wired, like me you're one of those people who are in their right mind.
Did you just compliment yourself from in a comment section on UA-cam?
Thnx! Great vid! Just starting my first build & stuff like this is very helpful! Love your products!
Some lights have pressure switches and some don’t . Some have BOTH pressure switches AND a button/toggle switch. I like these because you have a backup in the event the pressure pad fails or you somehow sever the wire.
Pressure pads are best placed along the top rail because you will be able to activate it with either the left or right hand. If you are training enough, you should be practicing your shooting with both your dominate and non-dominate sides.
Finally, one thing which gets neglected is speaking about the adequate number of lumens and rechargeable vs non-rechargeable systems. Along those lines, you should be considering spare batteries and where to keep them. This can also help you decide on the best optics which, if chosen carefully, should use the same batteries as the light. That way, you don’t have to store different batteries. Magpul’s ACS-L series of adjustable stocks has storage compartments for up to 6 CR123a batteries and a smaller compartment for wrenches, oil or other parts. Their STR series provides storage for up to 4 CR123a batteries but lacks the other storage compartment.
On the first rifle...its a little to close to the muzzle for my taste.... personally I mount my lights at the 6 o'clock position except on my shotgun...the sling would interfere with it.
I’m righty and left eye dominant too !
Not a problem shooting long gun, I shoot righty but I bit more complicated shooting handgun.
Actually, that would be a good subject for a video. Righty with cross eye dominant, share your experience with us.
You didn't mention mounting position also determines how much of the light will be blocked by the gun. Too far back and you'll have a big shadowed area where the light won't be shining.
that's pretty self explanatory, I don't think he needed to explain how putting things in front of a light will block the light. unless you needed a reminder 😅
@@chad9166 I don't, but someone else might. Common sense isn't always that common...
Shadow is easy to overlook while finding the sweet spot in a well-lit room. Nothing is “in front” of the light, but half the light pattern is gone when the light is parked “next to” the forearm. Shadow can’t be avoided, have to choose which part of your FOV won’t be lit.
Thank you so much for this information.
For suppressors or large muzzle devices, I think it is worth checking out the TRex Arms light bar!
Great product, Midwest Industries makes a good one as well.
Great tips! Thank you. 👍🏻😊
I prefer running my lights on my strong hand side as it helps to keep me from getting jabbed when using a sling. Good video Caleb 👍
Only 4 people downvoted… lol THATS how you know it’s a good vid
Caleb is on his was to be GOAT!!!
I’m really digging this gentleman’s hair dew
THANKS!
Cloud Defensive OWL comes with a pressure pad built in. It is not cheap but good lord is it a good light.
Great video, very helpful, thank you!
What rail is on the rifle with the pressure pad for the tactical light? I like the cut out on the front end!
As a fellow lefty (eye), thank you!
You locked Steve in the safe so you could do this vid alone …didn’t ya…. Yup, he’s in that safe…
I always enjoy your videos....thanks!!
Nice video for new firearm owner
He must be one big dude that makes 16” guns look like their 14.5 guns
That’s for the info. I just got a surefire scout and was looking where to install it since am also left eye dominate
That was a great clip! Thank you 🙏🏻
I mount my light on the bottom rail flush with the end of the hand guard as I can lay the gun in my range bag on either side without worrying about the light. No pressure pad; takes a second to turn the light on.
Good stuff as always.
Thanks for the video !!!
I appreciate that Caleb is also a weirdo lefty shooter cuz he's left eye dominant like me 😂
Great points !
Another informative clip!
i learned the hard way and partially melted once of my light lenses
Do you put something on the lens to make cleaning powder off easier? Years ago I was told to put chapstick on the lens before practicing or training, that way you just wipe the lens clean. I have done this ever since and my lenses stay nice and clear. However, if there is a better way, I'd love to know it.
Ive heard that since the powder is just carbon (same carbon as pencil lead) that you can just use an eraser on your flashlight lens to clean after use
I just rub a thin coat of gun oil on the lens before shooting and it'll wipe right off...the carbon sticks to the oil instead of the lens, it does get dirtier faster but cleaning is way easier so you have to decide if the tradeoff is worth it for you
Good points
Excellent info, thanks
Great video
I tried mounting mine on the left and the right side and I found it distracting looking down range. Mounted it on the bottom just aft of the muzzle break and that works great for me. I don't even have to use the pressure pad.
Thank you!
Hey Caleb, thanks for another informative video. What foregrip combination are you running on the AR with the UBR stock?
The light with the touch pad is mounted right in line with the muzzle brake. I thought you said don’t do that ??? 🤔
No one is talking about the literal rocket launcher in the back lmao
With a vehicle grip and a right eye dominant shooter it should still be on the left side if no pressure pad. Vehicle grip C clamp. No one monkey grips a vertical grip
Caleb, thanks for always makin' content for all experience levels. P.S. I, too am a southpaw.
Good channel! Great Content!
Hello
Petr from the Czech Republic.
I like your videos. I have a question. On this particular rifle from the video, I see if I'm not mistaken, the magazine release is on both sides, is that right? What brand is this please?
I run mine as far forward as possible to try to eliminate the muzzle shadow.
But but….where do I mount my pipe & baccy? lol
As always, very useful tip!
As always, your videos are top notch. What are your thoughts on mounting a light in the 6 o'clock position on the hand guard? Any disadvantages?
The largest disadvantage is that the bottom of the handguard is often used to brace on barriers.
@@CalebSavant that's a good point for sure. Thank you
The shadow the barrel can cast.
What about shadows? Better placement consodering the muzzle shadow?
What handguard is that? The one covering the muzzle device?
Midwest Industries 17.5".
@@CalebSavant
Thanks!
Anyone else wondering... here is the model number:
MI-CRM17XR
A touch of wax or even Chapstick on a light lens will let you wipe off the crud. I use Obenauf's but some use other stuff. KY Jelly probably won't last long enough, oddly enough. 😁
A light layer of lube on the lens will help with fouling if you have to mount your light closer to the muzzle
I'm ex infantry, been using WMLS for decades. IMO, 12 o'clock is by far the best mounting location.
2 primary reasons: It's fully ambidextrous with no wires, and it will shine past barriers on both sides of the weapon.
I hate 1 o'clock mount and tape switches. Hate them.
Freedom by Me Do you put it at the very end of the rail? I like your train of thought but want to make sure I understand also. That seems to be a good spot and not on the side of the weapon.
I have a front sight post. That may not be my best option lol
AT-4 in that gun safe👀😳😳👀
Where can I get this table mount/stand?
Duct tape works really good wrapped around the hand guard!!
I put that $hit on everything!
I carry self-cling medical "tape" in my trauma kit. Works good in a crunch and leaves no residue. One of the best tips I ever got was to try Gaffer's Tape. Its been used by the movie industry for years by "gaffers"/electricians so its time proven. Every bit as adhesive as old duct tape but does not leave residue. It also rips easier. More expensive but its benefits justify it for me.
Anyone else seeing that extra special toy in the safe?
Fun fact. Buy an AR for every mounting scenario. Problem solved. 😂
I bought two stream lights and they both came with the mlok mount. Neither one fits flush on my hand guard. I have the fn15 tac 3with the stock mlok hand guard. Frustrating.
I just duct tape my light to the bottom-front portion of the foregrip.
newbie here... what is the name of that vice that he has the firearm mounted on. I am looking up "gunsmithing vice" and the such but can't find anything that fits that specific style where it just sits on the magazine well.... anyone help a dude out?
Hey, did you ever find this vice? I am in same boat you were in and I want this exact model.
Any suggestions on a barrel mount for a weapon light?
Going cheap I used Weaver scope rings especially with 1" diameter lights. Low, medium or high ring depended on the light's head size. Since my early days of tinkering with AR's I've tried more "tactical" mounts. They work as well as Weaver rings unless you demand quick detachable. This is just my opinion but the light and its switch is the #1 concern. Light holder not so much..
OK, now I'm thinking to get rid of muzzle crud, these flashlights need those tear-away layers like motocross goggles use to dispatch mud.
I am right handed and left eye dominant. So far I was shooting right handed with one eye semiclosed. Should I try going left handed?
have you ever had the light lens crack from being mounted too close to the muzzle end/blast?
Probably won’t crack, but the lens will get filthy after a only a few rounds, and the housing will get scorched
Lots of people like to coat the lens with vasoline or maybe could get away with a thick clear tape to make it easier to clean
@@claytonatkinson865 - true that.. I like to obsess for perfection in finding the WML’s sweet spot.. The spot should firstly allow proper manipulation, while minimizing shadow-spill as much as possible. I suppose I consider scorching & residue lastly of the 3. 🤘🏼😎
I'd be more concerned with circuitry getting damaged. Lens can be replaced but circuitry is too technical for me. I know there avid flashlight fans who constantly change up all kinds of super tech stuff to boost output or change cast, etc.
@@p99shooter Pressure pads solve for awkward light placement. There's nothing wrong with keeping the light just outside the reach of any kind of muzzle device. The only time barrel shadow even has a slight hindrance is when they're way back on a carbine length handguard on a 16"+ barrel, and even then the shadow is still far enough outside of reticle focus.
3 or 9 using the tailcap switch is terrible if you have to transition to weak hand side.
Zero mention of barrel shadow?
What about interfering with a barrier if you had to use one? Wouldn't it interfere with bracing?
Opposed to using what part of the rifle as the brace point? If you mean by using the furthest point of the handguard right behind the muzzle then that's a horrible spot and the light would actually help in that regard. I make sure to tuck the light as close to the rail as possible to allow easier access to major brace points.
Yes .. and your not lighting up the barrel as much and keeps you more concealed !
I have found that a cheap solution for a gun light that works in a pinch is using a Harbor Freight pen light with the pocket clip attached through the mood slots. It also has a tail cap switch. Caleb's set ups are absolutely far superior but for home defense with no prolonged shooting sessions and living with a very tight budget. It's better than nothing. $15 vs $100. This works until you can afford a light system that is much better.
"works in a pinch" "Harbor Freight"
Fails when you need it!
Rob Davidson That's completely understandable on the affordability. Many can't run out a buy $300 - $400 dollar Surefire and a $100 - $150 mount. Some of us have to make do or do the best we can.
Well you can get the same set up in the video light and mount for 150 to 175 depending on which power light you want. I perfer the protac rail mount 1 on sale often for under 100. Midwest mount around 40.
But not at Brownells they never have sales worth a crap anymore.
@@MAGAMAN I have to agree with you about the Harbor Freight tools. Don't know how many scars I have acquired from the Harbor Freight wrench breaking thus running my knuckles into something hard and sharp under my truck which leads me jump in pain which leads me to thump my head up and down hitting the concrete and the bottom several times....Buster Keaton had life easy.
Caleb, in a similar vein - but on the other end of the rail, I am curious whether you have any advice for the eye relief variance when using a red dot accompanied by a magnifier. I want to locate the red dot and magnifier so that eye relief is good whether using it with or without the magnifier.
I just traded in an old did Eotech Inc. 551 for a 50% discount on a replacement and I’m unsure how to mount the setup for optimal eye relief. I’m using it on a BRN-180 with an 18” barrel.
So I’m curious whether I should mount the 3X magnifier so that the eyepiece is flush with the rear rail, or with it mounted as far to the rear possible on the rail with the eyepiece hanging back over the hinge of the folding stock?
thanks and take care.
You still need to be able to use the charging handle with little obstruction.
@@x-calibearusallc Sure, that is true with an AR-15/10, but if you recall me saying I am using the BRN-180, whose reciprocating charging handle is on the right side and that makes this a non-issue with my setup.
@@maximummarklee the general rule for magnifiers is mount it as far back as possible on the top rail, but experiment with how you naturally position yourself when bringing the gun up into a fire position and place the magnifier so that you are able to see through it immediately and don't have to fish around to line it up with your eye
Can you do a video on the gear you got on that rifle would love to know what the setup is
Here ya go! ua-cam.com/video/4_02mH9MavU/v-deo.html
@@CalebSavant thank you brother
How about a forward handgrip with a builtin light?
What rail is on the rifle with the pressure pad
what if you're rocking a surpressor? How far away or how close do you mount the light?
Great tips. I am mounting lights on my MP-10 and my AR-15 this week. Where can I find that liw profile mount you have on the rifle? Part # ?
Thank you
Midwest industries offset m lok surefire light mount. Light needs to be a surefire or surefire mounting foot print. Arisaka and BCM have similar mounts.
Go Algo!
What handrail is on the gun on the stand?
I need a elzetta mount this would fit my Wilson combat ar9g.. currently has old proprietary rail system with four screw holes.. help!!!
Hello, how is the pressure pad mounted to the top pic rail? I don’t see any Velcro straps holding it down. Looks pretty slick. Please inform. Thank you
The pressure pad just snaps onto the pic rail, its like rubbery and flexible.. easy peel off and putting on..
What flushed hand-guard is that?