If you choose to build one of these heaters just know that you need to be very careful and I will not assume any responsibility for anything bad that happens.
@@kevinsedo6869 I think I may add more elbows or larger elbows on the burner hat today more air leaner cleaner hotter burn. Good idea, Ive been thinking about doing for a while.
Randy I truly enjoy your videos more than any on the net. You explain everything very clear, & your filming is as good as any. Thank you for taking your time to do this for the rest my freind.
I know this is an old video. I’ve been looking at building an outdoor one so insurance doesn’t have an aneurism. Love the build and it’s nice cause our hot water heater was just replaced. I subbed and appreciate the time you spent to do an efficiency test.
Like another comment mentions you should do some more heat exchanger pipes and also with your excess heat you could probably do a sterling fan which operates off the heat and will push the air through the pipes for the heat exchange ...great job and great video
Nice st up,😊 i wil move the teemometers needle to de correct temperature tjey will be always accurate when your heater is on. ..nice oil flow indicator!!!
Looks like a good garage heater and a lot less work than heating with wood like I do I think I will build one just like it but scaled down version my shop is smaller than yours nice job new subscriber
I'm going to be building a setup kinda like this soon. Perhaps I'll get it made before Christmas. I can get my hands on plenty of used oil between my stuff at home and where I work. I run a grader and we've got a second one also and two tractors. So lots of used oil to get me through a winter even in Canada. Lol. My grader alone I'd get about 350L/93 US gallons roughly in a year.
Great job. Is that willy's roadhouse I hear? Im a do it yourself fabricator also! Nice to see good old fashioned ingenuity and fabrication! My shop also plays nothing but classic country!!!! Great music, great thinking, great video!
Randy what part of the county do you live in & how cold does it get. My shop is just a bit Smaller than yours. I live in Oklahoma with fairly mild winters, average mid 30,s to 40,s With very few times in the teens. My shop is lightly insulated. Do you think it wound do the Job in your part of the country?
I have one almost just like what you have I made it so I could close the door I used exhaust wrap and flat strap and bolted it the heater side it works great to seal the door up
Great set up. I built one exactly like that only difference a few more heat exchangers. I don’t have a burn chamber cap like you have to swirl the flame, but that is an option I can always add. I reinforced my door with 1/8 inch thick by 1 inch wide steel strips. One piece on the inside of the tank the other piece on the outside edge of the door. It really seals the door well and when you close it you can really hear it roar when it’s burning. I also have a half inch copper feedline inside of a 1 inch black pipe for the feed, The air around the copper pipe keeps it cool so that it does not get gummed up with burned oil residue. Once again great job, you will really appreciate the amount of heat that they put out especially on a really cold day. 😬👍
Thanks for the comment, I'll take your advice on the door. I've been trying to come up with a good idea to seal the door sounds like that's a good one.
Really well made solution for waste oil. Would you also be able to chuck pieces of wood in there? I'll never have enough oil from my 4 cars to heat a medium sized shop for the entire winter. Not a clue how warm it was in there tho. 19°C or about 66°F would actually do since I'm actively working in there.
I don't really see a way that you could put wood into this type of configuration. my father used to have a 55 gallon drum that he welded a door on the front of but wood and it just like a wood burning stove and then had a drip feed oil system into the top of the barrel which dripped on the oil It worked really well
@@randysdiy2102 I have what I thought was standard shop installation. It has somewhat of a foil backing on both sides but it’s not very thick. About a quarter inch thick. Is that the same stuff you have?
OK thanks that helps me a lot but I still think I would like to try to make one of those. great idea because I think I would be happy if it just brought me up about 20°
is the best of all that I saw, during a week on youtube very good level of personal skills, you can make me a drawing with all the measurements of its parts please, Thank you, my friend
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you as it's like a hundred and ten degrees here now I haven't been looking at the heater much. I will get you a drawing hopefully sometime this week
So you actually need about 45 liters for 24 hours,.. is that right, well,..that is a lot of oil even it's a wasted oil, because you need source to get so much oil.
I believe that is correct, however I burn waste vegetable oil most of the time now. the used motor oil from diesels is very messy.And the cooking oil smells great burning. lol
Damm Great! I'd think some copper tubing to replace the pex 'be easy/cheap to rig up a fuel gauge - either a vertical 'stand' of pex running up the side of the bucket of some kind of ping-pong ball float inside the bucket with a length of straight coat hanger wire extending up through the lid. You can figure out some kind of length of appropriately sized pvc to house the 'ball' OR do nothing = when you get cold you know you're out of fuel = add more I'd like to hear about and see out the outside the shop fumes/odor conditions. 'again, Damm Great!
Doesn’t seem very efficient. Losing a lot of heat in the process. I would think a wood boiler would be better? I do like the “out of box” thinking though. Great video.
I built something similar a few years back. maybe slow your stream down. mine ran at a slow drip. mine ran at a slow drip and it helped control heat. your final drip is what i ran mine at maybe a little faster. i had a small 12v computer fan blowing in and it helped the burn at a slower drip
I really like your name Jesus Christ is Lord. as far as the gas is being burned in the top I can't answer that but if you look at the video of the smoke output there is very little smoke output a lot less than burning wood probably more toxic but less
No sir, I just turned them sideways thinking that it might create a vortex of air as to where. Where if you pointed them up or down you wouldn't get that effect. Also. Also the extra holes I drilled in the air hat don't have the 90° fittings on them. They just or holes
I just finish building my stove. I am wondering about the contamination in the oil clogging the lines so my question is "do you have any thoughts on pre-filtering the oil before use?? "
My 2 cents. Some mesh cloth on the bucket will help filter the worst. to a usable level. Personally I use the "wick" system. Which we can describe as a big "candle" without the auto feeder system. Much simpler assembly, lower power output. As some disadvantages, but one pro about it. Is that I don't need to filter nothing. Just trow the oil in there done. ;-)
Before he passed away, my friend designed and built one using an oil stove oil filter assy. from the feed tank to the stove. IIRC he used it for over 20 years. It was 3 X bigger than the one here. It sure heated that huge uninsulated shop quite well. He had a mechanical repair biz and fed his stove with motor oil, hydraulic oil, 90 W , oil, ATF, whatever.
@@randysdiy2102 have a blower now on however getting smoke coming up the drip line coming out of the t any suggestions my half in copper is going directly threw an elbow down into burn
if you lived in a cold climate and were burning around the clock you would need 10 gallons a day or 300 per month in the winter on 2400 sq feet shop...seems like a lot of old oil would be needed. If the oid was free and you had an endless supply of it...and a big tank to hold it. Would be a great idea
To each his own, just remember you didn't see it here 😂. And just in case you're serious, I don't recommend it. Matter of fact, I wouldn't even recommend you light a match.
Damn, that's a hefty amount of oil usage. More than a litre an hour seems pretty high. Although to be fair, early on in the video it did sound like you were overdosing the oil as I could hear the crackling of an oil fire inside rather than an efficient oil burn.
I have a 40 Gallon Tank and my Burn Time for a Gallon is 4+ Hours at about 450-550F Degree. If I leave it at low 400F, I can get to about 5+ Hours on Small Drip! NOTE: Sometimes I have to shut if off since it gets too Hot. But my Span Time is from 4-6 Hours on Low Drip.
*UPDATE:* If I keep about 450F - It burns dirty and black smoke and lots of carbon. Best to span about 3 Hours or 2.5 Hours Per Gallon, but it will be hot. Sometimes glowing red too !!!
For me it was the weight of having it 5 feet high, I have considered putting a 300 gallon tote outside my shop on the ground and then having an electric pump with a float switch in the 5-gallon bucket to fill it however the automatic float switch kind of made me worried it might hang on and then spilled all out so at that point I decided to do a manual switch whenever I need to fill it, I just haven't done that yet
@@randysdiy2102 cool. Thanks. Also from having regular waste oil heaters in the past you might want to make room for a tank inside. Waste oil isn't the easiest thing to pump when it's really cold. Just something to consider. I agree it would definitely be a mess if it kept pumping. I think I want to have a tank big enough to burn all night. But from your demo on a gallon seems like 5 gal may do it. Thanks
If you can keep it regulated to a small stream 5 gallons may do it The problem I've had with mine is as the shop becomes warmer the oil becomes thinner and flows faster so I have to keep an eye on it.
Thoughts on the air pulling from the shop causing air from outside to pull into the space fighting off the heating effect. Even in an insulated shop you are moving some serious cfm from outside to inside to outside, wouldn't you say?
Absolutely not If anything it sucks air from inside the shop and out the flu so none of the smell comes into the shop. But when burning vegetable oil it smells really good.
Have you ever tried using oil from a restaurant that's from the fryer but you'll probably have to mix it with something that's a little bit more flammable or with your contaminated diesel oil like a 50/50 ratio
Does it smoke out the chimney? I have a silimar design but is smokes. Seems like it starves of temperature even at 1000degreesF at tank temp. Any thoughts?
Ok. I will try that. Are you burning conventional or synthetic oil? I've heard that it's harder to burn synthetic because of all of the additives in it. Do you know if that's true?
@@alextarshikov6515 There really is not any MORE additives in "synthetic" oil. The synthetic part relates to the base oil, and the additives determine the model/use of the lubricant.
What you are making is a feed rate limited burner, or it should be used that way. In short if you ever over feed the oil you end up in a situation where there is more than enough fuel and the limit is the amount of oxygen it can get and how hot the oil is. You've made a bomb. The goal is to never be able to over feed the oil and create pooling. The best way to handle this is by line sizing, you could use 1/4" or 1/8" line prior to the sight glass to achieve proper flow so that you can see that the tubing isn't plugged and yet you never have to worry that someone could accidentally open a valve too much and allow the fuel to pool.
@@randysdiy2102 I ran Grignard reactions before that are similar to burning oil in that if it gets too cold the reactants can pool and when it begins to warm up you have a runaway reaction (a bomb). Here if the oil is allowed to pool significantly and it continues to burn the oil can burn faster and faster until it burns out or explodes due to all the oil vapor and oxygen blending. The boiling creates an atomized mixture of fuel and air in a container that is already burning. Adding too much oil can cool the oil in the burner and now it becomes a heat controlled reaction because there is more than enough fuel but it's not hot enough to burn but you wouldn't know that because you can't see inside and even if you could the damage is done. Hope that it burns out. I think for added info you can look up Grignard reaction and see how they deal with it's explosive nature.
The same amount of oil would have gone through the system whether it was burning or not. I'll be that there is a calculator somewhere on the web that would give a pretty close number. I guess you needed to heat the shop anyway.
Good work, but wouldn't be nice to heat some water with your heater and send with a pump through under floor pipes or a couple of radiators?! Regards, Dan.
Too bad there isn't a water jacket surrounding this burner and this could be placed outside. The heat in the water could then be piped in to warm the interior with an heat exchanger. I swear I could smell oil burning when watching this. Not the best smell. But these oil burners always fascinate me as they use a waste product.
8.72 gallons in 24 hours. if your cost is a $1 a gallon the monthly cost would be $261.60 a month. Whats your true cost / gallon? Propane may be cheaper.
I think the question is HOW MUCH HEAT DO YOU REQUIRE? Waste lube oil 140,000 BTU per gallon. Fuel wood pellets about 320,000 BTU per 40 lb. bag. Cordwood about 7,000 BTU per pound. Some fuels are easy to handle, store and combust. My experience is fuel wood pellets are the most convenient, economical and enjoyable to use for heating. Be sure to check your home insurance when using a DIY heater - DIY home-made without UL approvals likely voids your insurance. Be careful and enjoy the warmth!
Just for advice. Stop the ad me utube stickers. They are terrible. Just do more videos like this and you will get somewhere. Stop begging and give more. Good luck.
It would help if you didn't repeat everything over and over when explaining things. People interested in this are just as knowledgable and not dumb that they have to listen to the same thing a dozen times. It's annoying. Other than that, great video, keep up the good work.
If you choose to build one of these heaters just know that you need to be very careful and I will not assume any responsibility for anything bad that happens.
Excellent!!! ...now if you could get the air flow velocity up without the use of a fan, I’m sure oil consumption would drop dramatically ...no??
Yes
Randy's DIY I’m thinkin some kind of Venturi effect like the throat of a carburetor has...
@@kevinsedo6869 I think I may add more elbows or larger elbows on the burner hat today more air leaner cleaner hotter burn. Good idea, Ive been thinking about doing for a while.
Randy's DIY or just add another row of elbows above the other instead of increasing the size perhaps.
I've watched hundreds of videos on waste oil heaters. You Sir are my favorite. Just a great straight up video. Kudos to you
Thanks for the compliment!
Randy I truly enjoy your videos more than any on the net. You explain everything very clear,
& your filming is as good as any. Thank you for taking your time to do this for the rest my
freind.
Thanks for the compliments Glad you enjoyed it
Dude sat in his shop watching a gallon of oil burn for 2.5 hours? For one commenter? Subscribed.
What can I say. I had a few other things going on in the back ground
I know this is an old video. I’ve been looking at building an outdoor one so insurance doesn’t have an aneurism. Love the build and it’s nice cause our hot water heater was just replaced. I subbed and appreciate the time you spent to do an efficiency test.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment
Subscribed! I like you heat exchanger set up- we used to have a heat exchanger on the chimney with our wood burner.
Thanks 👍
Incredible heat for 1 gal, nice work A+
Thanks 👍
Awesome video. hope you can show the video from start to finish that way I know all the components that are required. Thank you.
Very cool I want to build one now that I saw how efficient it is I never dreamed it would burn that long
Like another comment mentions you should do some more heat exchanger pipes and also with your excess heat you could probably do a sterling fan which operates off the heat and will push the air through the pipes for the heat exchange ...great job and great video
Nice st up,😊 i wil move the teemometers needle to de correct temperature tjey will be always accurate when your heater is on. ..nice oil flow indicator!!!
Cool or maybe hot!
Looks like a good garage heater and a lot less work than heating with wood like I do I think I will build one just like it but scaled down version my shop is smaller than yours nice job new subscriber
Thanks
I just asked this question in another video of yours and low and behold in the recommendation list here it is.
I'm going to be building a setup kinda like this soon. Perhaps I'll get it made before Christmas. I can get my hands on plenty of used oil between my stuff at home and where I work. I run a grader and we've got a second one also and two tractors. So lots of used oil to get me through a winter even in Canada. Lol. My grader alone I'd get about 350L/93 US gallons roughly in a year.
👍 great job, greetings from 🇳🇱 the netherlands
Thanks, would love to visit.
Great job. Is that willy's roadhouse I hear? Im a do it yourself fabricator also! Nice to see good old fashioned ingenuity and fabrication! My shop also plays nothing but classic country!!!! Great music, great thinking, great video!
Thanks
Randy what part of the county do you live in & how cold does it get. My shop is just a bit
Smaller than yours. I live in Oklahoma with fairly mild winters, average mid 30,s to 40,s
With very few times in the teens. My shop is lightly insulated. Do you think it wound do the
Job in your part of the country?
I live in South Arkansas. We're about the same as you. We very seldom see teens
@@randysdiy2102 yes I live in eastern Okla about 25 miles from Ft Smith. Thank you my friend.
The nice thing about having two valves on your fuel line is that one can always be kept at the same setting while the other can be used for on/off.
Exactly
I have one almost just like what you have I made it so I could close the door I used exhaust wrap and flat strap and bolted it the heater side it works great to seal the door up
Do you think the vortex makes a difference in the efficiency? Instead of regular air flow. I'm going to make one of these
I don't think so probably about the same result
Great set up. I built one exactly like that only difference a few more heat exchangers. I don’t have a burn chamber cap like you have to swirl the flame, but that is an option I can always add. I reinforced my door with 1/8 inch thick by 1 inch wide steel strips. One piece on the inside of the tank the other piece on the outside edge of the door. It really seals the door well and when you close it you can really hear it roar when it’s burning. I also have a half inch copper feedline inside of a 1 inch black pipe for the feed, The air around the copper pipe keeps it cool so that it does not get gummed up with burned oil residue. Once again great job, you will really appreciate the amount of heat that they put out especially on a really cold day. 😬👍
Thanks for the comment, I'll take your advice on the door. I've been trying to come up with a good idea to seal the door sounds like that's a good one.
Your burner is by far the best design Iv seen. As soon as I can get some supplies I will get busy.
Good deal, be careful
Really well made solution for waste oil.
Would you also be able to chuck pieces of wood in there?
I'll never have enough oil from my 4 cars to heat a medium sized shop for the entire winter.
Not a clue how warm it was in there tho. 19°C or about 66°F would actually do since I'm actively working in there.
I don't really see a way that you could put wood into this type of configuration. my father used to have a 55 gallon drum that he welded a door on the front of but wood and it just like a wood burning stove and then had a drip feed oil system into the top of the barrel which dripped on the oil It worked really well
Hey Randy great video I have one question what do you have for insulation and how tall are your ceilings?
Walls are 12 ft roof pitch is 3 and 12. Insulation is standard shop insulation. I'm not really sure what it is
@@randysdiy2102 I have what I thought was standard shop installation. It has somewhat of a foil backing on both sides but it’s not very thick. About a quarter inch thick. Is that the same stuff you have?
No mine has a vinyl like backing and then regular fiberglass insulation attached to it, uncompressed it's probably 3 in thick
OK thanks that helps me a lot but I still think I would like to try to make one of those. great idea because I think I would be happy if it just brought me up about 20°
Awesome video I need one for my greenhouse. Have you made a blueprint of your oil burner?
No but I do have some other videos. One has all the measurements and everything. Take a look at it
man you are awesome! thank you i cant wait to build this. its getting cold here in north carolina
Thanks
these videos give me ideas, like a solenoid valve hooked up to a thermostat
Hello Randy ! You can turn that into a Hot Water Thank & A Heater !!! just add up 3/4 section on the top with water tubes / elements ... lol !
A hug in the distance, thank you for your time
Love your music and your videos
Thanks
is the best of all that I saw, during a week on youtube very good level of personal skills, you can make me a drawing with all the measurements of its parts please, Thank you, my friend
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you as it's like a hundred and ten degrees here now I haven't been looking at the heater much. I will get you a drawing hopefully sometime this week
@@randysdiy2102 i would like one too! :)
@@jesuschristislordoflordsan427 me too
So you actually need about 45 liters for 24 hours,.. is that right, well,..that is a lot of oil even it's a wasted oil, because you need source to get so much oil.
Yes, it does use quite a bit of oil, I am currently trying to build a blue flame waste all heater which should be more efficient
I'm interested, what was the outside temperature and ambient temperature in your shop at the duration of the burn?
Ooooh, I'm going to guess that's been a while ago. Probably 30 to 35 degree's F
Wd40 is great for starting fire also great starter fluid deisel
Good build. Thanks for the burn time video ... subscribed. Hope you get to 1K soon.
Thanks, 3681 currently. My new goal is 10000 sub's
@@randysdiy2102 ah good 👍 . It doesn't say how many subscribers you have next to your name like most do.
I believe that is correct, however I burn waste vegetable oil most of the time now. the used motor oil from diesels is very messy.And the cooking oil smells great burning. lol
Great idea. Ty
How much it last 1 gallon of oil? What type did you use, thanks for any clarification.
Damm Great!
I'd think some copper tubing to replace the pex
'be easy/cheap to rig up a fuel gauge - either a vertical 'stand' of pex running up the side of the bucket of some kind of ping-pong ball float inside the bucket with a length of straight coat hanger wire extending up through the lid. You can figure out some kind of length of appropriately sized pvc to house the 'ball'
OR do nothing = when you get cold you know you're out of fuel = add more
I'd like to hear about and see out the outside the shop fumes/odor conditions.
'again, Damm Great!
ua-cam.com/video/NPVC_ebTS64/v-deo.html
Thank you Randy - that's a bitchen set up - being cold is No Good!
You might want to add a sight tube to the side of the 5 gallon bucket.
Good idea, however using used diesel oil it get everything so black you probably wouldn't be able to see it but the first few times.
Doesn’t seem very efficient. Losing a lot of heat in the process. I would think a wood boiler would be better? I do like the “out of box” thinking though. Great video.
I built something similar a few years back. maybe slow your stream down. mine ran at a slow drip. mine ran at a slow drip and it helped control heat. your final drip is what i ran mine at maybe a little faster. i had a small 12v computer fan blowing in and it helped the burn at a slower drip
isnt the gases burned up in the top like in a rocket stove? i mean that would likely make the temperatures go much higher on the top, right?
I really like your name Jesus Christ is Lord. as far as the gas is being burned in the top I can't answer that but if you look at the video of the smoke output there is very little smoke output a lot less than burning wood probably more toxic but less
does it mater which direction you weld on 90 fitting on air hat?
No sir, I just turned them sideways thinking that it might create a vortex of air as to where. Where if you pointed them up or down you wouldn't get that effect. Also. Also the extra holes I drilled in the air hat don't have the 90° fittings on them. They just or holes
I just finish building my stove. I am wondering about the contamination in the oil clogging the lines so my question is "do you have any thoughts on pre-filtering the oil before use?? "
My 2 cents. Some mesh cloth on the bucket will help filter the worst. to a usable level.
Personally I use the "wick" system. Which we can describe as a big "candle" without the auto feeder system. Much simpler assembly, lower power output. As some disadvantages, but one pro about it. Is that I don't need to filter nothing. Just trow the oil in there done. ;-)
I filter my oils all through cheesecloth. Whether it's cooking oil or engine oil
Before he passed away, my friend designed and built one using an oil stove oil filter assy. from the feed tank to the stove. IIRC he used it for over 20 years.
It was 3 X bigger than the one here. It sure heated that huge uninsulated shop quite well. He had a mechanical repair biz and fed his stove with motor oil, hydraulic oil, 90 W , oil, ATF, whatever.
Very useful information for me. Thanks !
How does the flame not travel up the feed tube and catch the feed bucket on fire that's my only concern
My guess would be there's no oxygen above the gate valve and fire can't burn without oxygen
good video ,i got a shop and that design would be handy
Threw the sight hole what do u put so it doesnt drip down the sides.
I used a barb fitting and screwed it in the inside of the t. That way the hose barb is just above the t hole
@@randysdiy2102 i went with 1 inch pipe so thats kinda hard but i have 2 barb fittings going from pail to drip never thought of barb fitting lol
@@randysdiy2102 have a blower now on however getting smoke coming up the drip line coming out of the t any suggestions my half in copper is going directly threw an elbow down into burn
if you lived in a cold climate and were burning around the clock you would need 10 gallons a day or 300 per month in the winter on 2400 sq feet shop...seems like a lot of old oil would be needed. If the oid was free and you had an endless supply of it...and a big tank to hold it. Would be a great idea
Oil is free, however and it very seldom gets below 20° where I live, and I'm only in my shop probably 4 hours a week
Sweet now I'm gonna build one that burns off gasoline alone!
To each his own, just remember you didn't see it here 😂. And just in case you're serious, I don't recommend it. Matter of fact, I wouldn't even recommend you light a match.
Get to it sir!
Excellent thanks 😊
Your welcome 😁
So with 3 average size vehicles. Thats about 270hrs of heat or 45 6 hour days. Do you have to ask the neighbors for oil?
I have access to restaurant cooking oils and fleet vehicle waste oil
Damn, that's a hefty amount of oil usage. More than a litre an hour seems pretty high. Although to be fair, early on in the video it did sound like you were overdosing the oil as I could hear the crackling of an oil fire inside rather than an efficient oil burn.
Yeah sometimes the oil I get has some traces of antifreeze or water in it
I didn't think it would burn so long 3.5 liters isnt much really interesting i wonder is there much smoke from d chimney cheers seamus from Ireland
Check out the other videos on my channel. There's one that shows the smoke output and some other videos there you make be interested in
Yes on do or like or not.
Very cool. I need to make one of these with my powerarc.
I use mine when it's really cold, be careful burning oil it is dangerous. Thanks
Have you tried putting a blow dryer in the intake to see what it did or some kind of air output.
Yes, I tried regulated air compressor line. It did better but I think adding more holes on the hat will do the same.
Randy's DIY I copied your hat added a small hole in between elbows. I have a 50cfm bath fan on a dimmer. Fan makes big difference. Thanks
Glad it helped
I have a 40 Gallon Tank and my Burn Time for a Gallon is 4+ Hours at about 450-550F Degree. If I leave it at low 400F, I can get to about 5+ Hours on Small Drip! NOTE: Sometimes I have to shut if off since it gets too Hot. But my Span Time is from 4-6 Hours on Low Drip.
*UPDATE:* If I keep about 450F - It burns dirty and black smoke and lots of carbon. Best to span about 3 Hours or 2.5 Hours Per Gallon, but it will be hot. Sometimes glowing red too !!!
😎
@@randysdiy2102 - Here: ua-cam.com/video/kNUFBD8GAF0/v-deo.html
It seems you may have put the wrong video link.
@@randysdiy2102 - Nope. I am trying to help you and improving your health !!!
I was wondering about how long 1 gallon would burn for, now I know, Thanks, GREAT VIDEO, 😆😆
👍
How does hydraulic fluid burn in this setup?
I haven't tried it but everything that I put in it from jet fuel to cooking oil has burned about the same. Some hotter than others.
thank you sir
Most welcome
Just curious why everyone feeds from a 5 gallon bucket in stead of something bigger. Thanks
For me it was the weight of having it 5 feet high, I have considered putting a 300 gallon tote outside my shop on the ground and then having an electric pump with a float switch in the 5-gallon bucket to fill it however the automatic float switch kind of made me worried it might hang on and then spilled all out so at that point I decided to do a manual switch whenever I need to fill it, I just haven't done that yet
@@randysdiy2102 cool. Thanks. Also from having regular waste oil heaters in the past you might want to make room for a tank inside. Waste oil isn't the easiest thing to pump when it's really cold. Just something to consider. I agree it would definitely be a mess if it kept pumping. I think I want to have a tank big enough to burn all night. But from your demo on a gallon seems like 5 gal may do it. Thanks
If you can keep it regulated to a small stream 5 gallons may do it The problem I've had with mine is as the shop becomes warmer the oil becomes thinner and flows faster so I have to keep an eye on it.
I wonder if an air intake from outside (cold air) would provide a more efficient burn. They make dryer intake specific wall plates.
Thoughts on the air pulling from the shop causing air from outside to pull into the space fighting off the heating effect. Even in an insulated shop you are moving some serious cfm from outside to inside to outside, wouldn't you say?
What keeps the fire from going up the oil feed tube?
Not sure, I would speculate that a lack of air and heat.
Does your shop smell of waste oil fumes when you use it?
Absolutely not If anything it sucks air from inside the shop and out the flu so none of the smell comes into the shop. But when burning vegetable oil it smells really good.
Thank you! That's all I needed to know
How much smoke does it make
Check out some of my other videos here's one of the smoke output, ua-cam.com/video/NPVC_ebTS64/v-deo.html
Thanks for the information on burn time..
I'm subscriber 763. Good luck, very interesting video.
Have you ever tried using oil from a restaurant that's from the fryer but you'll probably have to mix it with something that's a little bit more flammable or with your contaminated diesel oil like a 50/50 ratio
It will burn restaurant grease/oil as well as engine oil and it smells great.
@@randysdiy2102 man that's got to be torture working in the garage and feeling hungry all the time and smelling cheese burgers and fries
Cool. Thanks for sharing !
If you would run some of your exhaust pipe inside the shop it to would your fuel would go further.
Tanks for testing
Does it smoke out the chimney? I have a silimar design but is smokes. Seems like it starves of temperature even at 1000degreesF at tank temp. Any thoughts?
Add more air to eliminate smoke and make it hotter
I also have a video of the smoke output
Ok. I will try that. Are you burning conventional or synthetic oil? I've heard that it's harder to burn synthetic because of all of the additives in it. Do you know if that's true?
@@alextarshikov6515 There really is not any MORE additives in "synthetic" oil. The synthetic part relates to the base oil, and the additives determine the model/use of the lubricant.
thank you
Just think if u had a fan vent in the chimney to blow more heat around
Yep
So what keeps the heat from chiming up the oil feed pipe?
Not sure but the oil feed pipe is pretty cool about 8 inches above exit.
@@randysdiy2102 gotcha. So distance then.
@@shexdensmore I'd say that angle on the feed pipe helps aswell
there you go ur 1st subscriber
Randy nice video. Do you sell a portable stove? because if you build one I will buy one.
Sorry, don't sell.
yo - randy how did you strain the oil?
For engine oil I don't, but the vegatable cooking oil I started pouring it through a cheese cloth, but I am working on a pump and filter setup.
Randy s DIY keep @ it interesting projects & keep it in IMPERIAL measure I'm glad someone hasn't gone down the shite e u route
what's the fuel margin . how much fuel or wast oil in 3 months
Just depends on how much I'm in the shop and how cold it's is. There is really only about 3 months of cold weather here.
What you are making is a feed rate limited burner, or it should be used that way. In short if you ever over feed the oil you end up in a situation where there is more than enough fuel and the limit is the amount of oxygen it can get and how hot the oil is. You've made a bomb. The goal is to never be able to over feed the oil and create pooling. The best way to handle this is by line sizing, you could use 1/4" or 1/8" line prior to the sight glass to achieve proper flow so that you can see that the tubing isn't plugged and yet you never have to worry that someone could accidentally open a valve too much and allow the fuel to pool.
Great info
@@randysdiy2102 I ran Grignard reactions before that are similar to burning oil in that if it gets too cold the reactants can pool and when it begins to warm up you have a runaway reaction (a bomb). Here if the oil is allowed to pool significantly and it continues to burn the oil can burn faster and faster until it burns out or explodes due to all the oil vapor and oxygen blending. The boiling creates an atomized mixture of fuel and air in a container that is already burning. Adding too much oil can cool the oil in the burner and now it becomes a heat controlled reaction because there is more than enough fuel but it's not hot enough to burn but you wouldn't know that because you can't see inside and even if you could the damage is done. Hope that it burns out. I think for added info you can look up Grignard reaction and see how they deal with it's explosive nature.
@@randysdiy2102 Great video BTW!!
Thank you.. Great job..
Love the positive feedback.
The same amount of oil would have gone through the system whether it was burning or not. I'll be that there is a calculator somewhere on the web that would give a pretty close number. I guess you needed to heat the shop anyway.
thanks for sharing
How did you make the burner?
ua-cam.com/video/6Puk4mPK1XI/v-deo.html
Needs more heat exchange pipes and a baffle.
It has them now
Good work, but wouldn't be nice to heat some water with your heater and send with a pump through under floor pipes or a couple of radiators?! Regards, Dan.
You did an excellent job.
I’m gonna subscribe and see where it goes.
Thanks, I haven't done much lately it still crazy 65 degrees outside. Arkansas weather!
Too bad there isn't a water jacket surrounding this burner and this could be placed outside. The heat in the water could then be piped in to warm the interior with an heat exchanger. I swear I could smell oil burning when watching this. Not the best smell. But these oil burners always fascinate me as they use a waste product.
8.72 gallons in 24 hours. if your cost is a $1 a gallon the monthly cost would be $261.60 a month. Whats your true cost / gallon? Propane may be cheaper.
My oil is provided free.
I think the question is HOW MUCH HEAT DO YOU REQUIRE? Waste lube oil 140,000 BTU per gallon. Fuel wood pellets about 320,000 BTU per 40 lb. bag. Cordwood about 7,000 BTU per pound. Some fuels are easy to handle, store and combust. My experience is fuel wood pellets are the most convenient, economical and enjoyable to use for heating. Be sure to check your home insurance when using a DIY heater - DIY home-made without UL approvals likely voids your insurance. Be careful and enjoy the warmth!
Finally!! Wow thanks
So what’s the point to burning the oil?
Heat I guess.
This is like the old style kerosene heater that worked on gravity flow. Never use gas, unless you want an explosion..
can you use cooking oil in this heater
Absolutely, I do
Hook in a Thermals Based Fan to move the heat around. Hot air rising driving the fan which helps move the air
I may look into that. Thanks
👍🥂🎩
to start use peace of paper and diesel and watch out on your flow it you let to much you can litteraly melt heater case
Just for advice. Stop the ad me utube stickers. They are terrible. Just do more videos like this and you will get somewhere. Stop begging and give more. Good luck.
Thanks will do
It would help if you didn't repeat everything over and over when explaining things. People interested in this are just as knowledgable and not dumb that they have to listen to the same thing a dozen times. It's annoying. Other than that, great video, keep up the good work.
I'll try to do better. Thanks constructive criticism is always welcome.
Has anyone considered putting a boiler and radiators off of this for heating around a shop ???
I haven't bout sounds like a good idea. Gerry'sdiy buit a water heater I guess you could use that with a pump and radiators