Found this video 5 years later and a lot of great help! I'm in the middle of this and gallery gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. Found my primary tensioner plastic broke off. So now I have to remove the oil pan to try and find that piece.
Extremely good video. Thank you. You are absolutely right about the main pulley marks being incorrect from the manual. I removed the passenger valve cover and verified by cam noses in proper position and using a solid wire I ran into the cylinder hole to verify piston was at the TDC position.
Thanks mate, I rebuilt my own vq40 and it was actually nice to do! I followed the manual 100% exactly and it started within one revolution. The only problem that I had is what I out sourced..... The machine work was shocking!!!! 2 cylinders at least 1 thousandth too big. I hear the Pistons knocking every time I start the engine until it gets warm.... Forged Pistons mind you!!! But really!!!!!!
Wow, this Additional Tutorial for the Xterra timing had EVERYTHING I was wondering about. Just bought all the parts, doing the timing chain next week. Thanks! QUESTION: can you also replace the oil pump once the timing cover is off?
As I recall, there is no access to oil pump as the oil pans do not need to be removed. I'm at 150K miles now and no oil pump problems. Glad the video helped. Good luck with the change.
You have to remove the oil pan and timing cover to replace the oil pump. The oil pump slips on to the front of the crank and hangs up on the front of the oil pan if you try to remove it with the pan on.....
The FSM screwed me up too, I thought the black line was supposed to be at the 1 o clock position, but it was supposed to be at 11 o clock. I was only doing a water pump and thermostat job. Ended up tearing the whole front of the timing cover off just to see that I was right all along and the FSM was wrong.
TIP for others: Use the back of a cardboard shoe box to KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BOLTS. Poke a hole smaller than the threads with a Phillips head screw driver and mark the size, fastening order, and torque spec next to each for easy reassembly.
You do amazing work and an excellent job explaining the procedures in the repair. Thanks for sharing your time and experience with us who are less gifted mechanically!
So you didnt pull the intake and #1 plug to verify TDC on #1, just the marks will do it? How did you rotate the crank with the balancer off? Just slapped it back on and put the bolt back in? Thanks
Use the marks on the cam shaft sprockets. The timing marks are on the back side of the sprockets (not in manual)! Its been a long time, but I think I rotated the main crack with a very large breaker bar and socket.
@@jcs-bm2rb thanks. I bought an 05 with over 200k on it, engine sounds good, took it to a mechanic to make sure the guides wouldnt be an issue, he screwed up the timing and wont admit it so now I have to fix it :/
I too stripped one of the M6 bolts on the water pump. Also did the same stripping of the M6 bolt on my VQ30DE (1996 Infiniti I30). Used helicoils for both.
One thing,...you said that you did not take valvecovers off??? How did you hold camshaft, when opened/tightened camshaft sprocket bolts??? Just wondering...=) Ps. what is a correct torque for those??
You can get the flywheel lock tool from a number of tool distributors. I got mine from nissantechmate.com. I intend to sell it at some point as I noticed they sell rather quickly online (various auction sites) for $70-80. So that's kind of like a rental.
I just changed the timing chain, viewed several videos here on UA-cam. QUESTION: once you re-assembled everything, did your Xterra start up right away? I can't seem to get get mine to turn on. Assembled it, no start, took apart again, timing chain jumped a tooth, re-assembled, still won't start.
You emphasize to 'trusting the factory marks', which I intend to do. Can you briefly explain what you meant when saying the chains only line up when the motor is first built and will never line up again?
Once the chains and sprockets are aligned according to the timing marks, don't expect the marks to line up again (maybe never) after the engine is running, even after many revolutions. But, as long as nothing slips or jumps, this is perfectly ok, as the alignment and timing remains locked. I learned this after trying to get the marks aligned before I removed the chains. I rotated the crankshaft many times before disassembly to confirm my assumptions regarding timing and marks to no avail. A Nissan mechanic confirmed the fact that the marks only line up once during installation and simply said that all marks needs to be aligned when reassembled. Then after the engine starts running the marks will not periodically align. Perhaps a mathematician can figure out if periodic alignment is really never or in the millions or billions of revolutions... which depends on the ratio of gear teeth and chain links ;)
Wow, impressive that you tackled this by yourself, I'm not sure that I could. I was looking at getting an Xterra, but now I'm not so sure. I heard that this affected 05-10 model years...do you know if later years also have this issue, or was it somehow resolved by Nissan?
+Sean Good question. There is a class action suit that has been filed against Nissan that claims 2005-2010 Nissan Xterra's are affected, so someone has done some research that suggests the issue has been resolved in more recent models.
I found somewhere on one of the forums that possibly sometime in 2010 or 2011 that Nissan parts were redesigned by Borg Warner for the affected engines. Apparently there was a service tech bulletin released about it, I will try to go back and find it. Thanks for the great video.
Hello, I also have a 2006 xterra that I'm trying to replace the timing chains myself due to the infamous whining noise. So far I've taken off everything as the repair manual suggest. However I can't seen to pry off the timing cover. I've taken off all the bolts off the timing cover and also loosen the two front bolts off the upper oil pan. But there still seems to be something towards the bottom thats holding the thing in place? You don't have to actually remove the upper and lower oil pans to get the timing cover off do you? How did you go about removing your timing cover? Any help would be great please. Thanks!
No need to remove oil pans! There is a bolt at the lower right (looking at the engine from the front) that may be the problem, I think there are 3 bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine (discussed in video). These bolts come in from the side. Loosen all the AC compressor bolts, but do not remove compresssor. At least one of these bolts (front) needs to come out. If I remember correctly there may also be a pully bolt (in addition to the other bolts) that also goes through the front of the timing cover that would cause this. Just check again to make sure you have removed all the bolts (as Im sure you have, there is a lot of them). Also the cover is big with lots of RTV, and it really is a challenge to get off...even with all bolts out Use a putty knife and rubber mallet to cut rtv and be firm, but be careful not to crack or scratch the aluminum. Good luck!
@@jcs-bm2rb heh, I used an aluminium meat cleaver to open my first nissan timing cover, and since, it has been used to open several more, and I don't be careful haha I just hammer the hell out of it until it bites in and cracks the seal. Works like a charm, every time. Now whenever I see an old cleaver at a thrift shop, I buy it! And I never use it in the kitchen, only under the hood. this was a great vid, I wish I saw it before I learned by trial and error. But one thing I never expect is how strong the factory rtv is, I'm pretty sure once the bolts are torqued and the rtv sets a day or three that one could remove all the bolts and motor around with nothing but rtv gluing on the covers, and oil pan too. In fact, I learned not to use too much by having to pull apart a motor I had buttoned up the day prior... breaking that rtv seal can be HELLa hard. Meat cleaver.
I will like have an advise from you with respect to my engine. About a year ago my frontier entered water and it affected the engine. I had to change the engine block and the cam-shaft(under the engine). The issue now is when I start the engine there's a strange sound with in 5seconds after which it fades until i rev the engine. After some minutes of engine warm up the oil pressure guage drops and the oil light come on. A mechanic around advised me to get a VQ35DE engine to replace it, that it is same, but i'm not sure of the performance on a truck. Please I will like to have an advise from you on what to do to fix this engine as I really would not like to place a low-end engine as replacement.
Correct. Marks only line up during install. I confirmed this by asking a mechanic at Nissan dealer too ... and I spun the crank many, many times trying to get them to line up before disassembling, and failed. Maybe they line up every million turns of the crank... but as it turns out it doesn't matter. Just line them up once.
+Hector Rodriguez You can get the flywheel lock tool from a number of tool distributors. I got mine from nissantechmate.com. I intend to sell it at some point as I noticed they sell rather quickly online (various auction sites) for $70-80. So that's kind of like a rental.
My right side cam gears are ligned up, my crank is lined up, but my left side cams aren't. What should i do yo manually turn only the left cam assembly?
The top right timing chain appears to be slightly off . The mark on the chain is supposed to match the line mark on the cam shaft sprocket. Either way, how did it come out?
You are right. It is very difficult to align or use the lines on the front of the sprockets for alignment. There are dots on the back of the sprockets that are undocumented that leave absolutely NO doubt regarding alignment. When I noticed these and then proceeded to use the dots I knew it was perfect. 40K miles since repair and everything is still working well.
Probably 24 hours total working time over 4 or 5 days. A little bit everyday. However this is the first one (maybe the last) timing chain(s) I will replace! The tough parts that required a ridiculous amount of time ... that should not have! - stripping a water pump bolt and retappping: use a torque wrench, they don't require much torque and strip easily. - getting the alternator/PS bracket back on: bad design, it requires a lot of manipulation! - getting the main pulley broken loose: use a 4' pipe with big breaker bar and the flywheel locking tool. - getting the timing cover off: be patient use a puttly knife to cut the RTV - making sure the secondary chains are aligned, it was confusing until I discovered the 'dots/marks' on the back of the sprockets (not shown in manual), that make alignments crystal clear and easy to check.
+jcs4567 for the main pulley just get a cheater bar and rest it on the bottom bolts or any other place where it can be hold in place and just crank the engine real quick.
+jcs4567 for the main pulley just get a cheater bar and rest it on the bottom bolts or any other place where it can be hold in place and just crank the engine real quick.
Is your XTerra still running? I was just told that mine needs replaced after I took it in because of a rattling noise. Told me it would only last a year after I replaced it.
So, good job, I will do my Infiniti FX45 soon, 120000 miles, it is V8 engine, but kind of similar! Will do valve job, and change pistonrings same time too =) So, they charge about $2000 to do this at the dealer?? Including parts?? And one more thing, what silicone gasgetmaker did you use? Thanks, youtheman =) Ps. did it start on first try ?;o)
With the timing chains on and the main crankshaft locked using the special crankshaft/flywheel locking tool. Be gentle and you can loosen the crankshaft sprocket bolts this way.
+Todd Booker I noticed that most timing chain kits come with only the parts in the TSB (secondary chains and tensioner shoes and o-rings) and maybe an oil filter. So, I opted to buy my own parts, separately. Had great luck buying from www.courtesyparts.com. I figured I'd replace everything that could possibly wear out after going to all the trouble to do this....hence the Optional parts! Essential Parts: (2) Secondary Timing Chain 13028-ZK01C (2) Tensioner Shoe 13097-ZK01C (2) O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-2Y510 (2) O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-5E510 (this is the part I discuss in the video, that is not needed, if the two sprocket covers are not removed from the front timing cover) (1) Crank Shaft Seal 13510-7Y000 Optional Parts: (1) Primary Timing Chain 13028-ZS00A (1) Slack Guide 13091-ZK00A (1) Chain Guide, Upper 13085-EA200 (1) Chain Guide, Lower 13085-EA210 (1) Water pump...local auto parts store.
hi jcs4567, when you said you had spring loaded on the cam and had a hard time get it back in time, did it jump back when you were trying to release the main chain? and if so, how did you set it back to where it was supposed to be with out opening the valve cover to visually inspect if the valves are in the correct positions? I have my share with the spring loaded on one of the cam right now and trying to find the best way to correct it. thanks
Great question. The Nissan manual can be used as a guide. Nevertheless, I noticed there was more spring loading during my first (and incorrect) attempt at aligning all of the sprockets and chains. Therefore it seemed it was 'easier' (Less spring loading) to align, when aligned properly. I suppose you could also use a dowel in the #1 cylinder via spark plug hole to verify TDC. Its becoming a little fuzzy now, but also see the note at 4:31 regarding the relationship between crack and cam shaft, I was not 100% confident about exact alignment until I discovered the 'undocumented' timing marks or dots on the rear of the cam sprockets (both sides). After finding and aligning the cam chains using these marks I was relieved and confident that everything was perfectly aligned. I completed this job 29 months ago and logged 19K miles since, 133K miles and still running well. Good luck and just don't close it up until you are 100% sure its aligned. Eventually it will click and become obvious.... it took me several days.
I can't thank you and the other guys that shared their experience with people on youtube enough. I fired up my pathfinder last night after 6 weeks of sitting in the garage for the open brain surgery (the timing chain and guides and tensioners). The reason it took me 6 weeks because I found out the gasket at the Y channel was blown. so I tried to unscrewed the bolts to just replace the gasket but they made the bolts out of soft metal so I stripped 2 of them. I ended up replacing the whole rear cover, water pump, thermostat, a bunch of breather hoses and the variable valve solenoids. I ended up taking out the valve covers to make sure the valves are aligned. I also ended up replacing all the gaskets and the plugs. because of all your vids, I gained enough confident to rotate each camshaft individually to get everything to line up with the manufacture marks. You were absolutely right about knowing that the timing is set correctly when all the marks are aligned. I ran into another big issue with the veh when I was about wrapping it up that the heater core connnector perished and broke off by itself and spilled coolant all over. so I had to replace the whole heater core assembly. costed me a ton of money to fix the veh, but it's all worth it, I guess :) I hope the path will last until 400K miles :)
@@Sroor90010 what part are you asking about? the rtv? if it is, I used the gray color rtv sold at autozone. 20$ a tube. a big tube about the size of the window sealant. it works like a charm. make sure you put the right amount. not too much. not too little. and work carefully. not too fast not too slow because the rtv will dry out if you work too slow. good luck
A new car is needed. The are interference engines. So your pistons may collide with the valves and cause all kind of hell. Some get lucky and others not so much.
To remove the power steering pump bracket you need to go in from the right front wheel well. But you can see the bolts by looking up from under the car. Remove the wheel shroud. 'Ry the Car Guy' has a good video (ua-cam.com/video/j3uY3clWxFE/v-deo.html) on this part and the entire process really. You need to remove the front right wheel and plastic shroud anyway, to get the alternator off. Hope this helps!
Found this video 5 years later and a lot of great help! I'm in the middle of this and gallery gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. Found my primary tensioner plastic broke off. So now I have to remove the oil pan to try and find that piece.
Extremely good video. Thank you.
You are absolutely right about the main pulley marks being incorrect from the manual. I removed the passenger valve cover and verified by cam noses in proper position and using a solid wire I ran into the cylinder hole to verify piston was at the TDC position.
Thanks mate, I rebuilt my own vq40 and it was actually nice to do! I followed the manual 100% exactly and it started within one revolution. The only problem that I had is what I out sourced..... The machine work was shocking!!!! 2 cylinders at least 1 thousandth too big. I hear the Pistons knocking every time I start the engine until it gets warm.... Forged Pistons mind you!!! But really!!!!!!
You're not a mechanic? Yes. Yes sir you are now lol!
The use of bamboo skewers to clean off the RTV is brilliant!!
Wow, this Additional Tutorial for the Xterra timing had EVERYTHING I was wondering about. Just bought all the parts, doing the timing chain next week. Thanks! QUESTION: can you also replace the oil pump once the timing cover is off?
As I recall, there is no access to oil pump as the oil pans do not need to be removed. I'm at 150K miles now and no oil pump problems. Glad the video helped. Good luck with the change.
You have to remove the oil pan and timing cover to replace the oil pump. The oil pump slips on to the front of the crank and hangs up on the front of the oil pan if you try to remove it with the pan on.....
Great video! Thankyou for all of your insight knowledge! Just did my water pump and almost stripped it out. Only 7ftlbs needed
The FSM screwed me up too, I thought the black line was supposed to be at the 1 o clock position, but it was supposed to be at 11 o clock. I was only doing a water pump and thermostat job. Ended up tearing the whole front of the timing cover off just to see that I was right all along and the FSM was wrong.
TIP for others: Use the back of a cardboard shoe box to KEEP TRACK OF YOUR BOLTS. Poke a hole smaller than the threads with a Phillips head screw driver and mark the size, fastening order, and torque spec next to each for easy reassembly.
Do you have to remove the timing cover to replace head gaskets?
You do amazing work and an excellent job explaining the procedures in the repair. Thanks for sharing your time and experience with us who are less gifted mechanically!
Good job but you didnt tell us how Did you remove the middle pipe the aluminium pipe on the top of the cover Did you cut it 😳
About to do this exact job. Greatly appreciate the video .
So you didnt pull the intake and #1 plug to verify TDC on #1, just the marks will do it? How did you rotate the crank with the balancer off? Just slapped it back on and put the bolt back in? Thanks
Use the marks on the cam shaft sprockets. The timing marks are on the back side of the sprockets (not in manual)! Its been a long time, but I think I rotated the main crack with a very large breaker bar and socket.
Forget to mention, its still running strong with 180K miles....LOL!
@@jcs-bm2rb thanks. I bought an 05 with over 200k on it, engine sounds good, took it to a mechanic to make sure the guides wouldnt be an issue, he screwed up the timing and wont admit it so now I have to fix it :/
Wow that's a super clean engine for a 110k. Thanks for the video!!!
Question what was ur mileage at?? Also in addition to the chain anything else you recommend while the coves off!?? Tks
I too stripped one of the M6 bolts on the water pump. Also did the same stripping of the M6 bolt on my VQ30DE (1996 Infiniti I30). Used helicoils for both.
One thing,...you said that you did not take valvecovers off??? How did you hold camshaft, when opened/tightened camshaft sprocket bolts??? Just wondering...=) Ps. what is a correct torque for those??
How did you hold the crank pulley when you took it off
You can get the flywheel lock tool from a number of tool distributors. I got mine from nissantechmate.com. I intend to sell it at some point as I noticed they sell rather quickly online (various auction sites) for $70-80. So that's kind of like a rental.
Did u have to remove valve cover to replace the upper tensioners?
No, can change them easily from front.
My 2007 X whines a bit, can I live with it without damage to the engine?
Hey man thanks for doing this video.
I just changed the timing chain, viewed several videos here on UA-cam. QUESTION: once you re-assembled everything, did your Xterra start up right away? I can't seem to get get mine to turn on. Assembled it, no start, took apart again, timing chain jumped a tooth, re-assembled, still won't start.
Crank?or run?
You emphasize to 'trusting the factory marks', which I intend to do. Can you briefly explain what you meant when saying the chains only line up when the motor is first built and will never line up again?
Once the chains and sprockets are aligned according to the timing marks, don't expect the marks to line up again (maybe never) after the engine is running, even after many revolutions. But, as long as nothing slips or jumps, this is perfectly ok, as the alignment and timing remains locked. I learned this after trying to get the marks aligned before I removed the chains. I rotated the crankshaft many times before disassembly to confirm my assumptions regarding timing and marks to no avail. A Nissan mechanic confirmed the fact that the marks only line up once during installation and simply said that all marks needs to be aligned when reassembled. Then after the engine starts running the marks will not periodically align.
Perhaps a mathematician can figure out if periodic alignment is really never or in the millions or billions of revolutions... which depends on the ratio of gear teeth and chain links ;)
Wow, impressive that you tackled this by yourself, I'm not sure that I could. I was looking at getting an Xterra, but now I'm not so sure. I heard that this affected 05-10 model years...do you know if later years also have this issue, or was it somehow resolved by Nissan?
+Sean Good question. There is a class action suit that has been filed against Nissan that claims 2005-2010 Nissan Xterra's are affected, so someone has done some research that suggests the issue has been resolved in more recent models.
I found somewhere on one of the forums that possibly sometime in 2010 or 2011 that Nissan parts were redesigned by Borg Warner for the affected engines. Apparently there was a service tech bulletin released about it, I will try to go back and find it. Thanks for the great video.
Hi! Great info. How did you access the flywheel? Is your X 4x4 or 4x2? Automatic?
Hello, I also have a 2006 xterra that I'm trying to replace the timing chains myself due to the infamous whining noise. So far I've taken off everything as the repair manual suggest. However I can't seen to pry off the timing cover. I've taken off all the bolts off the timing cover and also loosen the two front bolts off the upper oil pan. But there still seems to be something towards the bottom thats holding the thing in place? You don't have to actually remove the upper and lower oil pans to get the timing cover off do you? How did you go about removing your timing cover? Any help would be great please. Thanks!
No need to remove oil pans! There is a bolt at the lower right (looking at the engine from the front) that may be the problem, I think there are 3 bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine (discussed in video). These bolts come in from the side. Loosen all the AC compressor bolts, but do not remove compresssor. At least one of these bolts (front) needs to come out. If I remember correctly there may also be a pully bolt (in addition to the other bolts) that also goes through the front of the timing cover that would cause this. Just check again to make sure you have removed all the bolts (as Im sure you have, there is a lot of them). Also the cover is big with lots of RTV, and it really is a challenge to get off...even with all bolts out Use a putty knife and rubber mallet to cut rtv and be firm, but be careful not to crack or scratch the aluminum. Good luck!
@@jcs-bm2rb heh, I used an aluminium meat cleaver to open my first nissan timing cover, and since, it has been used to open several more, and I don't be careful haha I just hammer the hell out of it until it bites in and cracks the seal. Works like a charm, every time. Now whenever I see an old cleaver at a thrift shop, I buy it! And I never use it in the kitchen, only under the hood. this was a great vid, I wish I saw it before I learned by trial and error. But one thing I never expect is how strong the factory rtv is, I'm pretty sure once the bolts are torqued and the rtv sets a day or three that one could remove all the bolts and motor around with nothing but rtv gluing on the covers, and oil pan too. In fact, I learned not to use too much by having to pull apart a motor I had buttoned up the day prior... breaking that rtv seal can be HELLa hard. Meat cleaver.
I will like have an advise from you with respect to my engine.
About a year ago my frontier entered water and it affected the engine. I had to change the engine block and the cam-shaft(under the engine). The issue now is when I start the engine there's a strange sound with in 5seconds after which it fades until i rev the engine. After some minutes of engine warm up the oil pressure guage drops and the oil light come on.
A mechanic around advised me to get a VQ35DE engine to replace it, that it is same, but i'm not sure of the performance on a truck.
Please I will like to have an advise from you on what to do to fix this engine as I really would not like to place a low-end engine as replacement.
So the timing marks once set will not line up again?
Correct. Marks only line up during install. I confirmed this by asking a mechanic at Nissan dealer too ... and I spun the crank many, many times trying to get them to line up before disassembling, and failed. Maybe they line up every million turns of the crank... but as it turns out it doesn't matter. Just line them up once.
And its still running, 180K miles!
Thanks much for the reply 👍
Hi, thanks for the video. Question - Where did you get the tool to lock the fly wheel to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt? Hoping this can be rented.
+Hector Rodriguez You can get the flywheel lock tool from a number of tool distributors. I got mine from nissantechmate.com. I intend to sell it at some point as I noticed they sell rather quickly online (various auction sites) for $70-80. So that's kind of like a rental.
Did you end up selling this? If not, and you still want to, I'm interested in buying it :)
My right side cam gears are ligned up, my crank is lined up, but my left side cams aren't. What should i do yo manually turn only the left cam assembly?
The top right timing chain appears to be slightly off . The mark on the chain is supposed to match the line mark on the cam shaft sprocket. Either way, how did it come out?
You are right. It is very difficult to align or use the lines on the front of the sprockets for alignment. There are dots on the back of the sprockets that are undocumented that leave absolutely NO doubt regarding alignment. When I noticed these and then proceeded to use the dots I knew it was perfect. 40K miles since repair and everything is still working well.
Hi did this issue cause your xterra to not start?
how long did this entire job take you to complete, (in work hours)
Probably 24 hours total working time over 4 or 5 days. A little bit everyday. However this is the first one (maybe the last) timing chain(s) I will replace! The tough parts that required a ridiculous amount of time ... that should not have!
- stripping a water pump bolt and retappping: use a torque wrench, they don't require much torque and strip easily.
- getting the alternator/PS bracket back on: bad design, it requires a lot of manipulation!
- getting the main pulley broken loose: use a 4' pipe with big breaker bar and the flywheel locking tool.
- getting the timing cover off: be patient use a puttly knife to cut the RTV
- making sure the secondary chains are aligned, it was confusing until I discovered the 'dots/marks' on the back of the sprockets (not shown in manual), that make alignments crystal clear and easy to check.
+jcs4567 for the main pulley just get a cheater bar and rest it on the bottom bolts or any other place where it can be hold in place and just crank the engine real quick.
+jcs4567 for the main pulley just get a cheater bar and rest it on the bottom bolts or any other place where it can be hold in place and just crank the engine real quick.
Is your XTerra still running? I was just told that mine needs replaced after I took it in because of a rattling noise. Told me it would only last a year after I replaced it.
@@LVP240 you mean you put tourqe rench on the pulley and before dissasembley you start the car?
So, good job, I will do my Infiniti FX45 soon, 120000 miles, it is V8 engine, but kind of similar! Will do valve job, and change pistonrings same time too =) So, they charge about $2000 to do this at the dealer?? Including parts?? And one more thing, what silicone gasgetmaker did you use? Thanks, youtheman =) Ps. did it start on first try ?;o)
Thank you very helpful
how did you loose the camshaft bolt without holding the shaft
With the timing chains on and the main crankshaft locked using the special crankshaft/flywheel locking tool. Be gentle and you can loosen the crankshaft sprocket bolts this way.
where did you get you timing chain kit. I'm planning to do the same thing in a couple of weeks and have an 06 X as well.
+Todd Booker I noticed that most timing chain kits come with only the parts in the TSB (secondary chains and tensioner shoes and o-rings) and maybe an oil filter. So, I opted to buy my own parts, separately. Had great luck buying from www.courtesyparts.com. I figured I'd replace everything that could possibly wear out after going to all the trouble to do this....hence the Optional parts!
Essential Parts:
(2) Secondary Timing Chain 13028-ZK01C
(2) Tensioner Shoe 13097-ZK01C
(2) O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-2Y510
(2) O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-5E510 (this is the part I discuss in the video, that is not needed, if the two sprocket covers are not removed from the front timing cover)
(1) Crank Shaft Seal 13510-7Y000
Optional Parts:
(1) Primary Timing Chain 13028-ZS00A
(1) Slack Guide 13091-ZK00A
(1) Chain Guide, Upper 13085-EA200
(1) Chain Guide, Lower 13085-EA210
(1) Water pump...local auto parts store.
+jcs4567 www.rockauto.com/ has great prices on parts too
(Looking to get mine done, but not brave enuf to do it myself
love you tube team.
hi jcs4567, when you said you had spring loaded on the cam and had a hard time get it back in time, did it jump back when you were trying to release the main chain? and if so, how did you set it back to where it was supposed to be with out opening the valve cover to visually inspect if the valves are in the correct positions? I have my share with the spring loaded on one of the cam right now and trying to find the best way to correct it. thanks
Great question. The Nissan manual can be used as a guide. Nevertheless, I noticed there was more spring loading during my first (and incorrect) attempt at aligning all of the sprockets and chains. Therefore it seemed it was 'easier' (Less spring loading) to align, when aligned properly. I suppose you could also use a dowel in the #1 cylinder via spark plug hole to verify TDC. Its becoming a little fuzzy now, but also see the note at 4:31 regarding the relationship between crack and cam shaft,
I was not 100% confident about exact alignment until I discovered the 'undocumented' timing marks or dots on the rear of the cam sprockets (both sides). After finding and aligning the cam chains using these marks I was relieved and confident that everything was perfectly aligned. I completed this job 29 months ago and logged 19K miles since, 133K miles and still running well.
Good luck and just don't close it up until you are 100% sure its aligned. Eventually it will click and become obvious.... it took me several days.
I can't thank you and the other guys that shared their experience with people on youtube enough. I fired up my pathfinder last night after 6 weeks of sitting in the garage for the open brain surgery (the timing chain and guides and tensioners). The reason it took me 6 weeks because I found out the gasket at the Y channel was blown. so I tried to unscrewed the bolts to just replace the gasket but they made the bolts out of soft metal so I stripped 2 of them. I ended up replacing the whole rear cover, water pump, thermostat, a bunch of breather hoses and the variable valve solenoids. I ended up taking out the valve covers to make sure the valves are aligned. I also ended up replacing all the gaskets and the plugs. because of all your vids, I gained enough confident to rotate each camshaft individually to get everything to line up with the manufacture marks. You were absolutely right about knowing that the timing is set correctly when all the marks are aligned. I ran into another big issue with the veh when I was about wrapping it up that the heater core connnector perished and broke off by itself and spilled coolant all over. so I had to replace the whole heater core assembly. costed me a ton of money to fix the veh, but it's all worth it, I guess :) I hope the path will last until 400K miles :)
@@bktarch hi friend good job would you please tell me the part number
Cause 3 dealer dont know what iam talking about they said use silicon rtv 😳
@@jcs-bm2rb hello friend
Whats the part number for this gasket dealer dont know they are saying use silicon 😳
@@Sroor90010 what part are you asking about? the rtv? if it is, I used the gray color rtv sold at autozone. 20$ a tube. a big tube about the size of the window sealant. it works like a charm. make sure you put the right amount. not too much. not too little. and work carefully. not too fast not too slow because the rtv will dry out if you work too slow. good luck
Proper spec ? the camshaft bolts what was the spec.
Camshaft sprocket bolt torque specs?
what happens when the chain breaks
Ashley Barnes
A new car is needed. The are interference engines. So your pistons may collide with the valves and cause all kind of hell. Some get lucky and others not so much.
didnt you have to pull the oil pan to get timing cover off so how could coolant be in the oil lol
nevermind
excelente vídeo muy aleccionador
You said there are 2 blind bolts in the power steering pump bracket. Can't see them. Any help ? Do they go in from the front, side, back ?
To remove the power steering pump bracket you need to go in from the right front wheel well. But you can see the bolts by looking up from under the car. Remove the wheel shroud. 'Ry the Car Guy' has a good video (ua-cam.com/video/j3uY3clWxFE/v-deo.html) on this part and the entire process really. You need to remove the front right wheel and plastic shroud anyway, to get the alternator off. Hope this helps!
Ry doesnt show how to remove power steering bracket either..dame it..stuck there for now
Hello sir
Can rply me
I am know this engine timing open I need your help
Definitely trust the factory marks lol
Yup, definitely not getting another Xterra.
Holy bat shit this shaking is making me nauseous AF
Maybe I am 5 years too late but get rid of that orange can!
Abdoul
Bla bla bla