I've thought of an alternative solution to the hurricane hinge would be to use a standard 2" piano hinge with a 2" wide strip of 1/16" sheet rubber underneath.
That's possible, there are hinges you can buy with the rubber on top. I think if I were going to do it again I'd do some barn door type hinges where the hinge axis is away from the trailer body by a couple inches, so that there is a standard seal at the top, same as the sides. Not sure if that makes sense or not.
Checkout the escapod topo2 doors and hatch for keeping rain out. It's the best design in my opinion. Awesome design! Looking forward to the PMF process.
I watched another guy struggle with that ideal of the openings becoming some unknown sizes after he applied the PMF method to it. But you are making a problem out of nothing because you just said you are going to be using a piece of aluminum trim anyway, so just cut it with a razor blade or saw if it invades into the opening too much, and put the trim on it like you were planning anyway, with the silicone under it to seal the seam like you were planning anyway. In other words if you can't allow the opening to be any smaller then don't let it be smaller, cut off PMF invading the opening and leave it the right size, you are sealing the seam anyway with the trim. So it is ok if you can see the edge of the wood in the openings because the doors, windows, and its trim will seal those openings anyway on the OUTSIDE of the panel, NOT the edge. In this case you need to design the trim to be on the outside corner of that edge, a 90 degree piece of trim, not on the inside this way you don't need to PMF the edge where you can't allow it to be invading on where your door and its seal belongs. With the trim on the outside edge of the door opening it seals the seam on the outside of the panel not on the edge of the panel where the door needs to sit and seal. And now the door can be designed and expected to fit where it belongs.
Wow great job! I'm looking for advice! I bought a micro trailer "project" for my 65th birthday... I may have bit off more than I can chew! lol I live in San Diego so I have a few month b4 wheather become an issue lol the trailer has good bones but the man who started the build passed away... so the universe thought I should finish it! anyway ... I'm currently researching what is best way to seal exterior? also original builder framed and cut 1 window 26x32 in door in rear of trailer and just framed not yet cut 2 16x16 in windows in sides ideally I'd like to put a galley hatch in rear and doors on sides ? I'm currently looking for any advice or help anyone can offer 😁👍 I dont want to get out my violins ... I have some skills the reason I'm doing this is because I am shooting survivor I actually stayed so busy b4 I I retired I didnt give myself time to think bout it lol but bcuz of progression in my injuries... to eye and face I now need a way to get out and battle my PTSD in a positive way 👍😁 any advice you or your peeps can offer would be VERY APPRECIATED ❣
@@MotherlodeMotors Building over the triangular area just behind the hitch gives you a few more feet. Building the floor out to the edge of the wheels gains at least another foot in width. Basically your floor on an "8x4" trailer can be around 11' x 5' without a problem. Just curious why people don't go for both room and better aerodynamics in their trailers.
@@arthurfoyt6727 If you keep it 4x8 then none of the surfaces become larger than a sheet of plywood. You also don't need to build a floor structure to handle the load past the frame rails. It's cost and simplicity vs space.
@@MotherlodeMotors There is no appreciable load OUTSIDE of the fram rails by adding 6" a side; probably less load than what's carried between 48" span that is between the frame rails! I agree on materials though you can make that up by bying the cheaper 4x8 frame in the first place instead of a 5x8 or 5x10. I also wand stramlining so I don't want to have big bulbouse trailer wheels and fenders out in the breeze. I'll cover the wheel openings with a 3 screw flush plate. As said I want the largest internal area inside for a queen matrees AND very low drag AND not buying an expensive frame.
![DiResta Camper Trailer [Pt1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YDMeOlscmXg/mqdefault.jpg)
![DiResta Camper Trailer [Pt1]](/img/tr.png)
I've thought of an alternative solution to the hurricane hinge would be to use a standard 2" piano hinge with a 2" wide strip of 1/16" sheet rubber underneath.
That's possible, there are hinges you can buy with the rubber on top. I think if I were going to do it again I'd do some barn door type hinges where the hinge axis is away from the trailer body by a couple inches, so that there is a standard seal at the top, same as the sides. Not sure if that makes sense or not.
Nice job on the hatch!
So the first thing that comes to mind is a 29" bike tube cut open layed flat and attached over the hurricane hinge to waterproof it
That’s a good idea!
Checkout the escapod topo2 doors and hatch for keeping rain out. It's the best design in my opinion.
Awesome design! Looking forward to the PMF process.
The escapod does look super cool, thanks for the comment! PMF video coming tomorrow!
I watched another guy struggle with that ideal of the openings becoming some unknown sizes after he applied the PMF method to it. But you are making a problem out of nothing because you just said you are going to be using a piece of aluminum trim anyway, so just cut it with a razor blade or saw if it invades into the opening too much, and put the trim on it like you were planning anyway, with the silicone under it to seal the seam like you were planning anyway. In other words if you can't allow the opening to be any smaller then don't let it be smaller, cut off PMF invading the opening and leave it the right size, you are sealing the seam anyway with the trim. So it is ok if you can see the edge of the wood in the openings because the doors, windows, and its trim will seal those openings anyway on the OUTSIDE of the panel, NOT the edge.
In this case you need to design the trim to be on the outside corner of that edge, a 90 degree piece of trim, not on the inside this way you don't need to PMF the edge where you can't allow it to be invading on where your door and its seal belongs. With the trim on the outside edge of the door opening it seals the seam on the outside of the panel not on the edge of the panel where the door needs to sit and seal. And now the door can be designed and expected to fit where it belongs.
Wow great job!
I'm looking for advice!
I bought a micro trailer "project" for my 65th birthday... I may have bit off more than I can chew! lol
I live in San Diego so I have a few month b4 wheather become an issue lol
the trailer has good bones but the man who started the build passed away... so the universe thought I should finish it!
anyway ... I'm currently researching what is best way to seal exterior?
also original builder framed and cut 1 window 26x32 in door in rear of trailer and just framed not yet cut 2 16x16 in windows in sides
ideally I'd like to put a galley hatch in rear and doors on sides ?
I'm currently looking for any advice or help anyone can offer 😁👍
I dont want to get out my violins ... I have some skills
the reason I'm doing this is because I am shooting survivor I actually stayed so busy b4 I I retired I didnt give myself time to think bout it lol
but bcuz of progression in my injuries... to eye and face
I now need a way to get out and battle my PTSD in a positive way 👍😁
any advice you or your peeps can offer would be VERY APPRECIATED ❣
With skinning the hatch, did you consider using 3mm ply and just bending it over the supports? Would have made a nice curve :)
Nah I didn't want any curves on the trailer. Was afraid of experimenting and wasting time and materials so I went all flat.
Does a traditional teardrop galley have more cargo space than the square valley build?
Squares are more efficient when packing things than curves are. But of course there are things you can do to make both styles fit your needs.
Ray romano's voice
Have you finished the trailer yet what does it look like
Yeah, check my newer videos. There’s a playlist in the description that has all the trailer videos.
Just curious, WHY build a "pod" on the middle of a trailer? Wht not gain at leat 1' wide and 3" longer by using the full size of the trailer?
It's a 4'x8' trailer, I did use all of it as far as I know??
@@MotherlodeMotors Building over the triangular area just behind the hitch gives you a few more feet. Building the floor out to the edge of the wheels gains at least another foot in width. Basically your floor on an "8x4" trailer can be around 11' x 5' without a problem. Just curious why people don't go for both room and better aerodynamics in their trailers.
@@arthurfoyt6727 If you keep it 4x8 then none of the surfaces become larger than a sheet of plywood. You also don't need to build a floor structure to handle the load past the frame rails. It's cost and simplicity vs space.
@@MotherlodeMotors There is no appreciable load OUTSIDE of the fram rails by adding 6" a side; probably less load than what's carried between 48" span that is between the frame rails! I agree on materials though you can make that up by bying the cheaper 4x8 frame in the first place instead of a 5x8 or 5x10. I also wand stramlining so I don't want to have big bulbouse trailer wheels and fenders out in the breeze. I'll cover the wheel openings with a 3 screw flush plate. As said I want the largest internal area inside for a queen matrees AND very low drag AND not buying an expensive frame.
Did you ever get a chance to weigh your finished trailer? I'm guessing 900lbs.
Not yet, hoping soon.