sand the logo a bit so it sits lower than the sides. If done correctly, there will be a layer of resin on top of the logo. Or alternatively build up the sides with a bit of wall and fill it up with resin. That way you have much more material to play with.
MJF / Multijet fusion print is my go-to for parts thats going to be very visible. Can be printed and used straight from the printer, or painted. Next up is resin printing, which is close to MJF but needs a bit of finishing work before painting (if you're painting) FDM as you did here is solely for prototyping for me now. also the slotted CNC milled one are way cooler imo
I just bought an 82 CB750 after taking inspiration from your videos and my love for cafes (this is also my first bike!) I’m always excited for your next video and what you end up doing next to the bike. Absolutely love the build and the channel, keep up the incredible work! All the way from Tampa, Florida🤙🏼
I used to a fair bit at work, 3D printing is often a bit of a let down, but if you have the face flat with the logo embossed in to the face it will work much better. You have the right idea using the steel frame as well, 3D printed parts such as brackets aren't very strong under any load or vibration, unless maybe using nylon as the filament. Give me a shout if you need anything modelled.
Wow bro you are a legend and that is very helpful. I have a bracket idea in mind for my headlight gauge if you feel like having a go at that. Where are you located. I can send you my sketch and some measurements. Do you have Instagram?
Just discovered your channel tonight. Great stuff. I'm about to scramble a Honda VT500 and was looking for ideas and stumbled on your channel. Funny thing is I'm into 3D printing and have printed things for friends bikes but wasn't thinking much about it for my bike until I saw this video. I like it when my hobbies meet :) As far as printing it smoother you can print it the other way (flip it over) and enable ironing in your slicer. I'm from Canada BTW like your friend.
Wow that’s awesome and I hope you manage to make some cool stuff. If shipping wasn’t so expensive I’d ask if you could make some parts for me that I’m thinking of. The VT500 is going to be awesome 😎 Following me in Instagram and send me a pic of it
Great work as always! I've printed a few things for bikes over the last few years and I'm surprised as anyone as to how well they have held up over time, although most were just aesthetic parts and covers. The standard print nozzle is 0.4 mm which will lay down a bead of the same width, either compensate for the 0.2 mm (0.25mm to be safe) in the cad drawings or if using a slicer like Simplfy3D adjust the horizontal size compensation. For neater prints, try to minimise the use of support structures as much as possible by chopping up the mesh before sending it to the slicer, in this instance printing the logo separately and gluing/acetone(if ABS) it together afterwards could have worked quite well.
For the best clean look of your 3D printed part, have your logo recessed rather than extruded then print with your logo side down. The stringing is do to the large overhang that the filament is being traced across without any support structure underneath.
Very cool, Dan... nice upgrade! Glad to hear Tom is doing well up there 👆 in Canada. It’s been a minute. Love the bike in the house thing. I used to keep my 07 Ducati in our finished basement at a previous house. Here at the beach, no basements. 😕. BTW, I think I liked your lined version the best. Take care, Mate. Stay well. 🏍👍🏍
Definitely HMU if you need any advice on 3D printing and CNC mate, I’ve been doing it for like 6+ years now and can help with a few things. First tip is get a set of vernier calipers, measure it out, cut a thin cardboard ‘top’ or ‘front’ 2D version and check bolt holes and alignment. I recommend a cheap CO2 or diode laser for this because you can literally export a DXF drawing from Fusion and then cut it with those exact dimensions.
Defo the ones with lines across it, but I’d be spraying your spacer plate black instead of leaving it Ali, would love to get into cad but it just blows my mind whenever I’ve tried just following a simple tutorial! Cheers Rich
Very nice stuff, as always :-) For bike parts I will recommend using PTEG filament instead of the more common PLA (not sure what you used...). PTEG is quite strong and a bit flexible (compared to PLA) so it should cope with vibrations. I would just have printed the whole solenoid box and skipped the middle metal part all together (saving weight and work). You can even print holes with threads, so you can screw on the lid and mount it to the frame. Made a quick and dirty mock here: a360.co/36OFCeE Try to design the parts so they do not need support, in other words try to make the model so the bottom can lay flat against the print bed. You can over extrude the bottom layer to avoid the stripes on the bottom, and enable ironing on the 3D printer to get the top surface smooth. If done correctly there will be close to none stripes on either the bottom or top layer. Could be that your print is a bit under extruded or printed to cold, that might cause these stringing that you was trying to remove. It takes some time to tune the 3D printer to get a perfect result, and the tuning never ends since different filament needs different settings.
Been doing the same 😂 using a 3d printed cowl on this new build. Nothing compared to your work though, still build as I go and swapping constantly on my build as I found issues that I can't solve straight away. Always inspiring my friend 👌❤
Printing the other side would normally make it smoother but your design won't allow that, the outer lip will be printed first before the inside area where the front is, some 3d printer software will allow a feature called ironing , this could fix your problem
@@CafeRacerGarage You'll have to change your design, because currently both the bottom and the top have a recessed center which isn't supported while printing. You could just totally flatten the face you don't see, then print the model with the flat face on the plate of the printer. At the top you can have any design, the logo can be recessed or protruding, you won't have any problem with it. Remember that the printer is adding material layer by layer and it cannot print mid-air (only to some little extent actually), it needs something to print over. If you still have problems with quality then you'll have to dial in your printer, but the obvious stringing you can see in your print is just a lack of supports
The issue is with the way it was printed because the design the middle bit floats which means you have to have a machine that is brilliant at bridging, people have said resin is good but I would ask for a second one and filler prime it first, sand blast it down and then spray it black again.
I would love someone else to print for me as my go-kart mate Derek is very busy in his shop and only squeezed me in as a favour, Are you local? If you have Instagram you can msg me over there. instagram.com/cafe.racer.garage.07/
There are lots of things that could cause the logo issues. If you send me the stl file, I will print on my resin printer and ship it to you. It will be as smooth as glass. Literally .02mm resolution, no lines, sanding or filling for the finish. Also, my printer is a large bed resin, check out ZiggyMoto motto lost molds for a new fiberglass technique for your “hump” or other fiberglassed parts.
Printing the other way up will help, but not very much. There are a bunch of slicer and machine settings that can be dialed in to get almost 100% sweet, right off the printer. For now Septone plastic primer then Septone spray putty (many layers) will help fill some of those problem areas. You'll have to sand and repeat spray putty until happy (or over it). Painting a bunch of layers with a high build paint like a hammered finish black will help after sanding and putty. Also! Bully bed liner might be worth a look. Check out the TeachingTech channel, he's just done a video. Looks promising if you don't enjoy sanding.
@@CafeRacerGarage I've just made a bunch of rubbish 3D prints in the quest for good ones. Like any fabricating process, it just takes time and research - always learning! Love your channel, keep up the great work!
The print should be upside down. The logo was on the bottom side of the print . The actual bottom that looks nice should be a flat surface to print without overhangs
I really doubt the word you used when you dropped that piece on the tile was "daah". We all know it was a different, if not multiple, 4 letter word(s). 🤣
Fill it with white resin and sand it flat. Think it would look good
great idea
sand the logo a bit so it sits lower than the sides. If done correctly, there will be a layer of resin on top of the logo. Or alternatively build up the sides with a bit of wall and fill it up with resin. That way you have much more material to play with.
MJF / Multijet fusion print is my go-to for parts thats going to be very visible. Can be printed and used straight from the printer, or painted.
Next up is resin printing, which is close to MJF but needs a bit of finishing work before painting (if you're painting)
FDM as you did here is solely for prototyping for me now.
also the slotted CNC milled one are way cooler imo
Hi, great job just needed a bit of final adjustment . Little box is unique and I think that the stripped cover is the one , Thanks . Gus
Thank you brother :)
Try to print with ironing turned on, this can create smoother top surface
In your slicer, enable ironing. The top services will turnout a lot smoother.
Thank you mate I will let him know :)
I just bought an 82 CB750 after taking inspiration from your videos and my love for cafes (this is also my first bike!) I’m always excited for your next video and what you end up doing next to the bike. Absolutely love the build and the channel, keep up the incredible work! All the way from Tampa, Florida🤙🏼
Wow This is a really nice comment and I'm so glad I'm able to help you kick off an amazing journey, Great choice of bike by the way
I used to a fair bit at work, 3D printing is often a bit of a let down, but if you have the face flat with the logo embossed in to the face it will work much better.
You have the right idea using the steel frame as well, 3D printed parts such as brackets aren't very strong under any load or vibration, unless maybe using nylon as the filament.
Give me a shout if you need anything modelled.
Wow bro you are a legend and that is very helpful.
I have a bracket idea in mind for my headlight gauge if you feel like having a go at that. Where are you located. I can send you my sketch and some measurements. Do you have Instagram?
I love the smooth surface cover, I'm excited to see what you do next! Keep up the awesome work!
Thank you mate. Me too lol 😂
Just discovered your channel tonight. Great stuff. I'm about to scramble a Honda VT500 and was looking for ideas and stumbled on your channel. Funny thing is I'm into 3D printing and have printed things for friends bikes but wasn't thinking much about it for my bike until I saw this video. I like it when my hobbies meet :) As far as printing it smoother you can print it the other way (flip it over) and enable ironing in your slicer. I'm from Canada BTW like your friend.
Wow that’s awesome and I hope you manage to make some cool stuff. If shipping wasn’t so expensive I’d ask if you could make some parts for me that I’m thinking of. The VT500 is going to be awesome 😎
Following me in Instagram and send me a pic of it
Great work as always!
I've printed a few things for bikes over the last few years and I'm surprised as anyone as to how well they have held up over time, although most were just aesthetic parts and covers.
The standard print nozzle is 0.4 mm which will lay down a bead of the same width, either compensate for the 0.2 mm (0.25mm to be safe) in the cad drawings or if using a slicer like Simplfy3D adjust the horizontal size compensation.
For neater prints, try to minimise the use of support structures as much as possible by chopping up the mesh before sending it to the slicer, in this instance printing the logo separately and gluing/acetone(if ABS) it together afterwards could have worked quite well.
Great tips mate thank you for your help here
Oh! There is "my" CX again!
I just LOVE it!
Greetings from Croatia!
It's sitting on display in my lounge room keeping it safe for you lol
If I ever win the lottery... It will be mine... Or You wil have to build me one just like that one...
For the best clean look of your 3D printed part, have your logo recessed rather than extruded then print with your logo side down. The stringing is do to the large overhang that the filament is being traced across without any support structure underneath.
Yeah, way more/better supports needed.
This is the correct answer for the 3D printing problem
You can pour dyed epoxy resin on the 3D printed part and sand after so the logo pops out..
Such a good idea :)
Very cool, Dan... nice upgrade! Glad to hear Tom is doing well up there 👆 in Canada. It’s been a minute.
Love the bike in the house thing. I used to keep my 07 Ducati in our finished basement at a previous house. Here at the beach, no basements. 😕.
BTW, I think I liked your lined version the best. Take care, Mate. Stay well.
🏍👍🏍
You are the first to comment about it being inside the house lol 😂 Thanks mate
@@CafeRacerGarage it touched my ♥️. 😎
Great work man. I've always wanted to build a cafe racer and your channel is very inspiring, on a lookout for a bike now.
That is amazing 🤩 hope you find a bargain
Definitely HMU if you need any advice on 3D printing and CNC mate, I’ve been doing it for like 6+ years now and can help with a few things. First tip is get a set of vernier calipers, measure it out, cut a thin cardboard ‘top’ or ‘front’ 2D version and check bolt holes and alignment. I recommend a cheap CO2 or diode laser for this because you can literally export a DXF drawing from Fusion and then cut it with those exact dimensions.
Wow thank you mate 😁 I’m running out of room for more tools lol 😂
Defo the ones with lines across it, but I’d be spraying your spacer plate black instead of leaving it Ali, would love to get into cad but it just blows my mind whenever I’ve tried just following a simple tutorial! Cheers Rich
Thank you and yes I will paint the lot black. The CAD stuff is very involved and I have a lot more respect for people that do it now.
Is there a lip to hold the 3d print in or is it just tight to stop it coming out? Cheers to always learning
It’s a tight fit but I will put screws in it when it’s finished
video shooting is soo amezing
Thank you so much mate :) Glad you like them.
If you filled your 3d print under the logo with epoxy it would leave a super smooth finish that you could even have a second color or slick shine to.
That is a really good idea, I never thought of that mate, Thank you 😊
All your fab skills inspired me to enroll in an after work welding course
Wow dude this is incredible, thank you for sharing, you just made my day :) You won't regret having the skill
As always awesome like the 3D print great job
Thank you so much mate
Nice bike builds I think that they look great. What is the paint code for the green I'm building a bobber with a military theme
Thank you mate, It's not a code as I had it matched to colour I already had so I'm unsure what it is
Very nice stuff, as always :-) For bike parts I will recommend using PTEG filament instead of the more common PLA (not sure what you used...). PTEG is quite strong and a bit flexible (compared to PLA) so it should cope with vibrations. I would just have printed the whole solenoid box and skipped the middle metal part all together (saving weight and work). You can even print holes with threads, so you can screw on the lid and mount it to the frame. Made a quick and dirty mock here: a360.co/36OFCeE
Try to design the parts so they do not need support, in other words try to make the model so the bottom can lay flat against the print bed. You can over extrude the bottom layer to avoid the stripes on the bottom, and enable ironing on the 3D printer to get the top surface smooth. If done correctly there will be close to none stripes on either the bottom or top layer. Could be that your print is a bit under extruded or printed to cold, that might cause these stringing that you was trying to remove. It takes some time to tune the 3D printer to get a perfect result, and the tuning never ends since different filament needs different settings.
Thank you so much for all this info mate
Been doing the same 😂 using a 3d printed cowl on this new build. Nothing compared to your work though, still build as I go and swapping constantly on my build as I found issues that I can't solve straight away.
Always inspiring my friend 👌❤
Learning as we go is definitely a fun way to do it. Entire hump out of 3-D printing must be a big task. 😬
@@CafeRacerGarage took 31h to print 😂 been hard to hide some of the lines from the printing but it's getting there slowly 👍
Nice work! Great solutions!
Thank you mate
Fantastic details.
Does the Moto gadget unit not have a starter solenoid built in?
Great work
Unfortunately not but it has everything else 😁
Love the 3D part. Are you just using friction to stay? The smooth fuse cover is definitely my choice
I will use small screws in the final part but this one is just a test run
Printing the other side would normally make it smoother but your design won't allow that, the outer lip will be printed first before the inside area where the front is, some 3d printer software will allow a feature called ironing , this could fix your problem
thank you mate I will look into it :)
@@CafeRacerGarage You'll have to change your design, because currently both the bottom and the top have a recessed center which isn't supported while printing.
You could just totally flatten the face you don't see, then print the model with the flat face on the plate of the printer. At the top you can have any design, the logo can be recessed or protruding, you won't have any problem with it. Remember that the printer is adding material layer by layer and it cannot print mid-air (only to some little extent actually), it needs something to print over.
If you still have problems with quality then you'll have to dial in your printer, but the obvious stringing you can see in your print is just a lack of supports
The issue is with the way it was printed because the design the middle bit floats which means you have to have a machine that is brilliant at bridging, people have said resin is good but I would ask for a second one and filler prime it first, sand blast it down and then spray it black again.
Great idea thank you brother 😁
If everything fit right the first time, where would the fun be in that? Looks Great!
Haha so true but also frustrating at the same time lol
once it's massaged to fit, it'll be the best ever
I like the smooth cover, could you engrave your logo into it?
Sand your print to fit when you can. You can waste a ton of time and filament trying to get the perfect print, or you can tweak what you have.
Very true, Thank you
If this was printed with the logo being facing the top, that stringing could've been avoided, regardless goodjob doing this mods.
I've been designing and using some 3d printed part's for my build too. Love the logo. Let me know if you'd like me to print your next one.
I would love someone else to print for me as my go-kart mate Derek is very busy in his shop and only squeezed me in as a favour, Are you local?
If you have Instagram you can msg me over there. instagram.com/cafe.racer.garage.07/
There are lots of things that could cause the logo issues. If you send me the stl file, I will print on my resin printer and ship it to you. It will be as smooth as glass. Literally .02mm resolution, no lines, sanding or filling for the finish. Also, my printer is a large bed resin, check out ZiggyMoto motto lost molds for a new fiberglass technique for your “hump” or other fiberglassed parts.
Printing the other way up will help, but not very much. There are a bunch of slicer and machine settings that can be dialed in to get almost 100% sweet, right off the printer.
For now Septone plastic primer then Septone spray putty (many layers) will help fill some of those problem areas. You'll have to sand and repeat spray putty until happy (or over it). Painting a bunch of layers with a high build paint like a hammered finish black will help after sanding and putty. Also! Bully bed liner might be worth a look. Check out the TeachingTech channel, he's just done a video. Looks promising if you don't enjoy sanding.
Thank you so much 😊 you seem to know a lot about this so I'm grateful for your help
@@CafeRacerGarage I've just made a bunch of rubbish 3D prints in the quest for good ones. Like any fabricating process, it just takes time and research - always learning! Love your channel, keep up the great work!
@@CafeRacerGarage but yeah, check out TeachingTech he's fabing a bunch of 3D printed car parts, air boxes etc.
The print should be upside down. The logo was on the bottom side of the print . The actual bottom that looks nice should be a flat surface to print without overhangs
That print was pretty poor quality on both sides...but yeah, printing it the otherway up would help.
Thank you mate, It's only a test run so I need to learn what is good and what is bad and how to improve.
And printed on a glass bed.
Lines, but the plain is good too. I dunno, cheers m8 : )
I will get them in black and see how they look
Classic 3D print - never fits first go, and you learn how to best print the quality after about the 4th go 😅
Haha 😆 yep I’m learning this for sure 👍
I really doubt the word you used when you dropped that piece on the tile was "daah". We all know it was a different, if not multiple, 4 letter word(s). 🤣
Haha I keep those words off camera If I can lol 😂 You are right tho, If you watch it again you can see I trim the footage before you here I say #$^%&