Great video Skyler. Just had delivery of the 20W S1 & awaiting the air assist. Love the inlay section which I had not considered & the tip about allowing for the kerf of the laser for the inlay piece. Like other comments, I would welcome a tutorial on making the file for the box. Thanks again Jeff
Here is a video I did showing how to make the files for the boxes in video at 17:23 timeline BEST 30 W laser under $1000. LONGER B1 30W Laser Engraver. Make box joints and inlays the easy way ua-cam.com/video/FcORkVE59Ic/v-deo.html
In my opinion, the most fascinating results in inlays are reached when using light wood inside dark wood. I think that light inlays in dark wood honor the very concept of inlays, because this type of aesthetic result cannot be achieved otherwise, while a dark pattern on a light background can also be produced by simply burning the pattern on the wood. I appreciated more the other box you've made, the one with light inlays. Anyway, great work in both cases!
I know other people have said this but I think you’re brilliant at this work. I am trying to copy some of your ideas with reasonable success. Now I am likely to order the S1 but I haven’t got much room! I intend to use it inside the house and put the hose out of a window. Then I’ll try inlays, hopefully I can get a good result! Regards Andy in 🇬🇧
I love your videos! I noticed that you said that the small parts fell through as you were cutting them. I saw a video where a guy put several layers of tape on the bottom side of the inlay board; thick enough that the laser can't burn through. This keeps the tiny pieces from getting lost by falling out. The downside of that is that you've got to "un-stick" the tape after the design is cut. I love the videos and hope to see more soon!!!
This was so helpful for me! I just got mine today and have zero knowledge about laser cutting machines and needed a little help since it's a new machine and it's hard to find videos related to it. Thank you!😊
I would love to learn how to make the boxes. Can you point me in the right direction? I should get my S1 in a few days. I've been watching all the videos since getting my F1 last week and decided to get the S1 too when I saw the live stream. I have had the cheap ORTUR lasers which I quickly found out were not great for cutting. I also have a laser for my OneFinity WoodWorker but its only 7W.
Thank you for sharing your challenging design process, with Xtool S1 laser. Always something to learn with new machines. Xtool has put a vast amount of advertising resoirces out for this laser machine. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
I just bought an S1 laser and I would like to make my own boxes for gifts. How can I get or make my own cut files. You mentioned you would be able to help with that😊
Skyler, congrats on that awesome S1 machine, super nice. To me, that wood looks like mahagony, not cedar. I still think doing box joints with the laser is cheating although the inlays are amazing.
Skyler can you tell me if both materials were 1/4" or was the wenge 1/8" ?. I'm ordering my wood material for my new S1. Thank you please keep the teaching videos coming...Chris
Beautiful box. The inlay work may have been tedious but it looks awesome. May you should do a video on how you made the box joint file. It would help a lot of us not familiar with programing such designs. Are you using an inline fan to assist in smoke evacuation? Can't wait until my S1 machine arrives. I have a lot to learn and your videos are helping a great deal. Thanks for sharing.
I noticed you have a inline duct fan. Did you connect that fan to your S1? If so, did you need to make some kind of adapter to get the duct on the S1 to match the duct size of your fan?
I think it is good when yah show the screw ups, cause everybody else shows there projects with no complications and we all know that aint happening every time lol
I've noticed in a few of your laser videos, that you don't use layers in the software. Is there a reason? For example, in LightBurn you've imported an entire box design, then deleted the parts you aren't cutting right now - why not move them to another layer, so you have all the pieces in the one file, but can have different set cuttings for different wood species? Then turn off the layers you don't want to cut. In this video, where you added .01mm to the outline and had trouble selecting the original, moving the new outline to a new layer would have solved the problem of trying to do a fiddly selection by mouse.
I'm thinking of buying the Xtool S1 and don't worry I will use your link. :) The real question is, I hope you don't mind but are you making a decent profit with the Xtool? I see also you have an extensive carpentry shop so you do more. My Father and brother were both Carpenters but I went into Television Production. We don't forget our microphones :) Need a Video Open?
Honest answer: never sold any of my laser or woodworking projects. I was always afraid that they are not good enough and nobody wanted to buy them. Only started woodworking less then a year ago, so lots more to learn. Lasers only started a few months ago. So no money from Xtool lasers other then a few thousands a month from affiliate Xtool links
Rather than CUT the wenge, mirror the inlay and deep engrave it into the wenge. This will leave all the small pieces attached to a substrate. Flip and glue all at once.
@@woodworkingwithSkyler It works with laser as well. With 1/4" material, I deep engrave the pocket to 3mm - 4mm. Same with mirrored inlay image. Glue and then saw/sand away the substrate.
This solution is excellent but it's not always convenient. When you have many separate pieces to cut and fit, it can be helpful to reduce wood consumption by rearranging the project on the computer so that all the pieces are close to each other and they are cut on the smallest possible piece of wood. With your method, on the contrary, you must always use a wooden board which is as wide as the entire project, even if the inlays overall are few and/or small.
what a wonderful view
Very nice box indeed . One safety observation I always remove my ring.
You are very talented and original. A true Artisan.
Great video Skyler. Just had delivery of the 20W S1 & awaiting the air assist. Love the inlay section which I had not considered & the tip about allowing for the kerf of the laser for the inlay piece. Like other comments, I would welcome a tutorial on making the file for the box. Thanks again Jeff
Here is a video I did showing how to make the files for the boxes in video at 17:23 timeline BEST 30 W laser under $1000. LONGER B1 30W Laser Engraver. Make box joints and inlays the easy way
ua-cam.com/video/FcORkVE59Ic/v-deo.html
In my opinion, the most fascinating results in inlays are reached when using light wood inside dark wood.
I think that light inlays in dark wood honor the very concept of inlays, because this type of aesthetic result cannot be achieved otherwise, while a dark pattern on a light background can also be produced by simply burning the pattern on the wood.
I appreciated more the other box you've made, the one with light inlays.
Anyway, great work in both cases!
Nice process. You're learning all the time. God bless your family and you.
I know other people have said this but I think you’re brilliant at this work. I am trying to copy some of your ideas with reasonable success. Now I am likely to order the S1 but I haven’t got much room! I intend to use it inside the house and put the hose out of a window. Then I’ll try inlays, hopefully I can get a good result! Regards Andy in 🇬🇧
I love your videos! I noticed that you said that the small parts fell through as you were cutting them. I saw a video where a guy put several layers of tape on the bottom side of the inlay board; thick enough that the laser can't burn through. This keeps the tiny pieces from getting lost by falling out. The downside of that is that you've got to "un-stick" the tape after the design is cut. I love the videos and hope to see more soon!!!
Great tip! Thank you.
You're welcome!@@woodworkingwithSkyler
Some mighty interesting and detailed stylings with the layers and intricate pieces for assembly. you are a good teacher! Thanks.
This was so helpful for me! I just got mine today and have zero knowledge about laser cutting machines and needed a little help since it's a new machine and it's hard to find videos related to it. Thank you!😊
Glad I could help!
You must like puzzles. That one was a hard one! Nice job!
Very nice box and a good tutorial. Thank you.
you're the only one I've seen doing inlays with a diode laser. Giving me some great ideas!
Thank you. More to come
Thanks Skyler, appreciated
Any time!
I would love to learn how to make the boxes. Can you point me in the right direction? I should get my S1 in a few days. I've been watching all the videos since getting my F1 last week and decided to get the S1 too when I saw the live stream. I have had the cheap ORTUR lasers which I quickly found out were not great for cutting. I also have a laser for my OneFinity WoodWorker but its only 7W.
This video of hers shows her doing a download/settings of a box from the site I mentioned. ua-cam.com/video/FcORkVE59Ic/v-deo.html
Great video, once again! Can you share how you do your box files? Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your challenging design process, with Xtool S1 laser. Always something to learn with new machines. Xtool has put a vast amount of advertising resoirces out for this laser machine. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks Norm
could you do a video on how you made the box joint file
Can you point me in the direction of making the box files you mention please? Great videos and as a one week user pretty impressed. Thank you
Interested to know where you got the box joints file
Nice box.
Thank you
I'm blessed.
Skyler, love your videos. Just ordered an S1 from your code. Can you share where/how you design your box and joints?
How long did it take to actually cut those boxes with ur 40watt laser??
Great video
j admire toutes vos créations elle sont magnifiques ..vous avez de la chance d avoir du joli bois continuez .sincères félicitations patrick
:)
I just bought an S1 laser and I would like to make my own boxes for gifts. How can I get or make my own cut files. You mentioned you would be able to help with that😊
www.festi.info/boxes.py/
Skyler, congrats on that awesome S1 machine, super nice. To me, that wood looks like mahagony, not cedar. I still think doing box joints with the laser is cheating although the inlays are amazing.
Skyler can you tell me if both materials were 1/4" or was the wenge 1/8" ?. I'm ordering my wood material for my new S1. Thank you please keep the teaching videos coming...Chris
Mahogany was 1/4, went was 1/8
Can you point me towards in direction yo make box joints on S1 Xtool ?
Regards
Paul
Use this free website for designing boxes. Very easy www.festi.info/boxes.py/ABox?language=en
@@woodworkingwithSkyler many thanks Skyler, much appreciated.
Regards,
Paul
Beautiful box. The inlay work may have been tedious but it looks awesome. May you should do a video on how you made the box joint file. It would help a lot of us not familiar with programing such designs. Are you using an inline fan to assist in smoke evacuation? Can't wait until my S1 machine arrives. I have a lot to learn and your videos are helping a great deal. Thanks for sharing.
I noticed you have a inline duct fan. Did you connect that fan to your S1? If so, did you need to make some kind of adapter to get the duct on the S1 to match the duct size of your fan?
Could you have cut out the lip and engraved at the same time?
I think it is good when yah show the screw ups, cause everybody else shows there projects with no complications and we all know that aint happening every time lol
Wow. To cool. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
do you really need 100% cut on a 40w lazer ? Just asking for reference because I'm learning for my D1 Pro 40w.
Depends on what you are cutting
Did you purchase the XTool purifier?
NOT YET BUT SOON
I've noticed in a few of your laser videos, that you don't use layers in the software. Is there a reason?
For example, in LightBurn you've imported an entire box design, then deleted the parts you aren't cutting right now - why not move them to another layer, so you have all the pieces in the one file, but can have different set cuttings for different wood species? Then turn off the layers you don't want to cut.
In this video, where you added .01mm to the outline and had trouble selecting the original, moving the new outline to a new layer would have solved the problem of trying to do a fiddly selection by mouse.
wish i could afford the xtool, but looks like going with wecrate, its only 1600 for the whole setup an 40w
Wecreate is good. I have it
*If you put Masking Tape down over the Wood Before you Laser Engrave it you will not have charring.*
I'm thinking of buying the Xtool S1 and don't worry I will use your link. :) The real question is, I hope you don't mind but are you making a decent profit with the Xtool? I see also you have an extensive carpentry shop so you do more. My Father and brother were both Carpenters but I went into Television Production. We don't forget our microphones :) Need a Video Open?
Honest answer: never sold any of my laser or woodworking projects. I was always afraid that they are not good enough and nobody wanted to buy them. Only started woodworking less then a year ago, so lots more to learn. Lasers only started a few months ago. So no money from Xtool lasers other then a few thousands a month from affiliate Xtool links
You need a microphone assistant. 😳
Rather than CUT the wenge, mirror the inlay and deep engrave it into the wenge. This will leave all the small pieces attached to a substrate. Flip and glue all at once.
Genius!!! I will try that. I have seen that technique with Cnc,
@@woodworkingwithSkyler It works with laser as well. With 1/4" material, I deep engrave the pocket to 3mm - 4mm. Same with mirrored inlay image. Glue and then saw/sand away the substrate.
This solution is excellent but it's not always convenient.
When you have many separate pieces to cut and fit, it can be helpful to reduce wood consumption by rearranging the project on the computer so that all the pieces are close to each other and they are cut on the smallest possible piece of wood.
With your method, on the contrary, you must always use a wooden board which is as wide as the entire project, even if the inlays overall are few and/or small.
I need to get me a laser!
:)
Nice job. Definitely mahogany, not cedar. Wrong grain structure and coloring for cedar.
The box is Mahogany
👏👏👏👏👏👏🌹
You must look in the Camera not on the Monitor