@@DTJoinery it was actually in the college I studied bench joinery at! Imagine this from never useing any machinery before to suddenly ripping on that 18" blade!
Hi Gary, I'm glad to hear from another Wadkin lover. Are you a professional woodworker? The glass is backed by a neutral curing silicone, specially made for glazing. Thanks for the compliment.
How do you make sure the wood wont twist/warp/bend once in the door and on the hinges? I am trying to figure out how to make 8ft doors for interior doors to replace some old ones but dont have a full sized jointer.. so hoping I can use roller stands with my bench jointer (10" wide spiral head). Been told 8ft too long for it for stiles anyway. I assume rails should be no problem. Debating if I should get a $500 1/4hp power feeder for my router, but wont help me on the jointer.
@b3owu1f There are certain timbers that we won't use, as they are likely to twist. If you machine the timber correct and the weather is somewhat consistent, then it's not a real problem. Big contadictions in the weather, though, are a problem for us, 40 deg celcius today with westerly winds( meaning very dry) then 25 deg tomorrow with 95% humidty will almost certainly cause us issues with the imber stability. A jointer with nice long tables is important for straightening your timber. Anything shorter than 6ft will be a challenge.
@@DTJoineryI don't know enough about how outside weather affects interior doors. We get 115 summers and 25 winters mostly dry though very little humidity. We typically keep house between 60 and 78 year round though sometimes we shut heat off when away and it may get colder. My doors are all 8ft hollow core crap so I wanted to build some to replace those. I originally thought I could use 2x4 Douglas fir and joint and plane them then make them stave core with veneers but I plan to paint the doors so may be a waste of money to try to use veneers only to paint. I don't have the room for a big jointer so I picked up cutech 10" which has extensions to 54". Figured that with rollers on both sides should work well enough to support running 98" or so stiles or wood to joint then run thru dw735 to plane ? I know it will require ensuring the rollers are in same plane and level with indeed and oitdeed. But I don't have much else to work with. Do have festool track saw to cut edges if need be. Also bought a ton of bessey clamps for clamping up stiles and rails and pipe clamps for door.
@b3owu1f As long as it's all in wind, there is nothing wrong with table extensions, and there is no reason that you shouldn't get a nice true finish. If your internal temps and humidity are stable year wide, then you should not have any issues with the stability provided that the timber you select is a suitable quality to do the job. Douglas Fir would be fine, western red vedar also, even oak although a lot harder to work with than the former timbers.
@@DTJoinery The reason I ask about douglas fir is all the premium 2x4s at my local big box are that.. and run about $3.75 per 8ft length. Though they may not be long enough as I need a 96" door I believe and 8ft after a little fixing/etc may be < 96" so not sure I can use that. They may have longer boards. My thought was using cheap 2x4s for the core staves, then use better hardwood (poplar, maple) for the outside staves sandwiching the 2x4 douglas fir. But I dont have a good band saw to cut veneers with so not sure I can find good quality veneers at 1/4" to put on the face of the staves and at 96" long. This is for 1 3/8" thick interior doors too. Other concern is weight.. not sure how heavy this door will get with 8ft real wood stiles/rails and panels. I did buy the interior/exterior door bits from Infinity which was about $300 for the 4 bits including the ogee raised panel bit. My router is the Jessem 3 1/4hp so should be able to handle the cutting no problem with these bits. But if not douglas fir, then maybe I can find poplar cheap enough to work with.
@b3owu1f As long as you get decent grade and not knotty or lots of gum veins and sappy spots (can be hard with Douglas Fir to avoid sap) it should be ok. Just make sure your hardware is sufficient, at least 3 hinges per door for that height.
We very rarely use double glazing. If anything, we use low e glass. Our climate here doesn't get too cold. We never see snow, and summers are hot but easily overcome.
![How To Make French Doors [Woodworking Projects]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HvbxBSU_cpI/mqdefault.jpg)
The right amount of voice over, the right amount of explanation. Love your videos mate. Relaxing to watch.
Thanks very much. Appreciate the feedback. Cheers.
Really enjoying you're videos! I was actually trained on the wadkin pp! Great saw!
@@davydmir6565
Thanks for the feedback.
The PP is a great saw, big but so versatile.
Where did you work to have used one?
@@DTJoinery it was actually in the college I studied bench joinery at! Imagine this from never useing any machinery before to suddenly ripping on that 18" blade!
@@davydmir6565 Just slightly intimidating 😁
Great video. I'd never seen the big belt sander before.
Thanks for sharing your techniques.
Yes, it certainly is a one of a kind.
Cheers.
I am in California and also have a Wadkin PP which I love. Did you use sealant/caulking on your glass install? EXCELLENT CRAFTMANSHIP!
Hi Gary,
I'm glad to hear from another Wadkin lover. Are you a professional woodworker?
The glass is backed by a neutral curing silicone, specially made for glazing.
Thanks for the compliment.
amazing video don't know why but It was perfect and the final product is amazing.
Thankyou very much.
How do you make sure the wood wont twist/warp/bend once in the door and on the hinges? I am trying to figure out how to make 8ft doors for interior doors to replace some old ones but dont have a full sized jointer.. so hoping I can use roller stands with my bench jointer (10" wide spiral head). Been told 8ft too long for it for stiles anyway. I assume rails should be no problem. Debating if I should get a $500 1/4hp power feeder for my router, but wont help me on the jointer.
@b3owu1f
There are certain timbers that we won't use, as they are likely to twist. If you machine the timber correct and the weather is somewhat consistent, then it's not a real problem. Big contadictions in the weather, though, are a problem for us, 40 deg celcius today with westerly winds( meaning very dry) then 25 deg tomorrow with 95% humidty will almost certainly cause us issues with the imber stability.
A jointer with nice long tables is important for straightening your timber. Anything shorter than 6ft will be a challenge.
@@DTJoineryI don't know enough about how outside weather affects interior doors. We get 115 summers and 25 winters mostly dry though very little humidity. We typically keep house between 60 and 78 year round though sometimes we shut heat off when away and it may get colder. My doors are all 8ft hollow core crap so I wanted to build some to replace those. I originally thought I could use 2x4 Douglas fir and joint and plane them then make them stave core with veneers but I plan to paint the doors so may be a waste of money to try to use veneers only to paint. I don't have the room for a big jointer so I picked up cutech 10" which has extensions to 54". Figured that with rollers on both sides should work well enough to support running 98" or so stiles or wood to joint then run thru dw735 to plane ? I know it will require ensuring the rollers are in same plane and level with indeed and oitdeed. But I don't have much else to work with. Do have festool track saw to cut edges if need be. Also bought a ton of bessey clamps for clamping up stiles and rails and pipe clamps for door.
@b3owu1f
As long as it's all in wind, there is nothing wrong with table extensions, and there is no reason that you shouldn't get a nice true finish.
If your internal temps and humidity are stable year wide, then you should not have any issues with the stability provided that the timber you select is a suitable quality to do the job. Douglas Fir would be fine, western red vedar also, even oak although a lot harder to work with than the former timbers.
@@DTJoinery The reason I ask about douglas fir is all the premium 2x4s at my local big box are that.. and run about $3.75 per 8ft length. Though they may not be long enough as I need a 96" door I believe and 8ft after a little fixing/etc may be < 96" so not sure I can use that. They may have longer boards. My thought was using cheap 2x4s for the core staves, then use better hardwood (poplar, maple) for the outside staves sandwiching the 2x4 douglas fir. But I dont have a good band saw to cut veneers with so not sure I can find good quality veneers at 1/4" to put on the face of the staves and at 96" long. This is for 1 3/8" thick interior doors too. Other concern is weight.. not sure how heavy this door will get with 8ft real wood stiles/rails and panels. I did buy the interior/exterior door bits from Infinity which was about $300 for the 4 bits including the ogee raised panel bit. My router is the Jessem 3 1/4hp so should be able to handle the cutting no problem with these bits. But if not douglas fir, then maybe I can find poplar cheap enough to work with.
@b3owu1f
As long as you get decent grade and not knotty or lots of gum veins and sappy spots (can be hard with Douglas Fir to avoid sap) it should be ok.
Just make sure your hardware is sufficient, at least 3 hinges per door for that height.
Interesting, no thermopane/double glazed panels? Is your area in that sweet spot for heat and cold that makes double glazing unnecessary?
We very rarely use double glazing. If anything, we use low e glass.
Our climate here doesn't get too cold. We never see snow, and summers are hot but easily overcome.
@@DTJoinery Ahah, so you are in that sweetspot. Your videos are always excellent. Thanks for all of your work to help us learn.
@valekenny
No worries Cheers.